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Full text of "The gastronomic regenerator : a simplified and entirely new system of cookery with nearly two thousand practical receipts suited to the income of all classes illustrated with numerous engravings and correct and minute plans how kitchens of every size from the kitchen of a royal palace to that of the humble cottage, are to be constructed and furnished"

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^RADC^^PE  COILECE  UBRARY( 

WOMEN'S  ARCHIVES 

Truufeired  from 

HARVARD  COLLEGE  UBRARY 

UMO 


r  * 


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•        * 


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THE 


^aiitronomtc  36legmerator : 


SIMPLIFIED  AND  ENTIRELY  NEW 

SYSTEM  OF  COOKERY, 

WITH   NEAmLY 

TWO  THOUSAND  PRACTICAL  RECEIPTS 

f  sxnrsD  TO  the  ihoomb  ov  all  classes. 


ILLUSTRATBD  WITH 

NUMEROUS   ENGRAVINGS 

AJn>  COKKBGT  XSD  MISVTE  FLAHS  HOW  KITCHEKS  OF  EVEET  SIZE,  VBOK  THE 
KITCHEN  OF  A  S07AL  PALACE  TO  THAT  OF  THE  HUKBLE  COTTAGE, 
ARE   TO  BE  OOVSTBtrCTEI)  AJID  FDXBriSHSD. 


BY 

MONSIEUR  A.  SOYER, 

OF  THE  REFORM  CLUB. 


FOURTH    EDITION. 


LONDON : 

SIMPKIN,  MARSHALL,  ft  CO.,  STATIONERS*  HALL  COU^T 

AND   SOLD   BY 

JOHN  OLLIYIER,  PALL-MALL. 

1847. 


/ 


HARVARD  COLLEGE  LIBRARY 

BEQUfST  OF 

■R8.  CHESTEK  K.  GREENOUGH 

SEPTEMBER  20,  1926 


C.  AKB  J.  ADtAIll),  raiNTKia,  BA«TBOU)l«W  CU»B.      ,    -7 


r 
i' 


TO  HIS  EOYAL  HIGHNESS 

THE  DUKE  OF  CAMBRIDGE. 


YoDR  Royal  Highnfbs, 

The  gracious  condesceDsion  which  permits  of  the  dedi- 
cation of  this  Work  to  your  Royal  Highness,  adds  another  to 
the  many  claims  upon  my  devotedness  and  my  gratitude. 

I  have  the  high  honour  to  be 
Tout  Royal  Highness' 

Most  obedient  and  humble  Servant, 
ALEXIS  SOYER. 


THE  FOLLOWING  DISTINGUISHED  PERSONS  HAVE  HONOURED  THE 
AUTHOR  WITH  THEIR  APPROBATION,  AND  THI3  VOLUME,  WITH 
THE  KITCHEN  PLAN  OP  THE  REFORM:  CLUB,  WERE  COMMENCED 
UNDER  THEIR  PATRONAGE. 


EK  H.t}Le  Duke  of  Cambridge. 
Ernest  reigning  Doke  of  Saxe-Cobouig. 
E  R.  H  the  Duke  of  Sussex. 
RH  H.  the  Hereditary  Prince  of  Soxe- 

Cobonrg  and  Gotha. 
H.  K  H.  the  Prince  of  Prussia. 
Archduke  Frederic  of  Austria. 
Prinee  Biron  de  Courlande. 
Princess  Clementine  of  France. 
Tlie  Duke  of  Leinster. 
TheDukeofB^ord. 
The  Duchess  of  Sutherland. 
La  Dodiesae  d'Escars. 
La  Duchesse  de  Lorges. 
La  Duchesse  de  Valmy. 
Tht  Countess  of  Essex. 
The  Countess  of  Carlisle. 
The  Dowager  Marchioness  of  Downshire. 
The  Countess  of  Clare. 
The  Countess  of  Craven. 
The  Baroness  de  Ludwigsdorff  (Sweden.) 
Ladj  Eliza  PhilUps. 
Lady  Flower. 
Ladj  Throgmorton. 
Ladj  £hl)ank. 
The  Marquis  of  Ailsa. 
The  Marquis  of  Normanbj. 
The  Marquis  of  Lansdowne. 
The  Marquis  of  Clanricarde. 
The  Maiqds  of  Titchfield. 
The  Marquis  of  Headfort. 
T^  Marquis  of  Sahsbuiy. 
Marqoieza  das  Minas. 
Mamuieza  das  FuijeL 
The  Earl  Fortescue. 
The  £ail  of  Pembroke. 
The  Earl  of  Chesterfield. 
.He  Earl  of  Devon. 
The  Earl  of  Yarborough. 
The  Earl  of  Charlemont. 
The  Count  Hatzfeldt  (Prussia). 
Count  Woronzow. 
Countess  Woronzow. 


The  Earl  Grosvenor. 

The  Earl  of  Ckrendou. 

The  Earl  of  Sefton. 

Le  Baron  de  Molartie  (great  Echanson  to 

the  Kinff  of  Hanover). 
Le  Baron  Adolphe  de  Rothschild. 
La  Baronne  de  Rothschild. 
La  Baronne  de  Weiber  (Baden). 
Le  Comte  de  Rancher  (France). 
Le  Comte  de  Pradel  (Franoe). 
Lord  Ebrinston. 
Lord  Dinorben. 
Lord  Maidstone. 
Lord  Marcus  Hill,  M.P. 
Le  Vicomte  de  Noailles  (France). 
Viscount  Duncannon. 
Lord  James  Stuart. 
Lord  Mostjn 
Lord  Jermyn. 
Lord  Say  and  Sele. 
Lord  Dudley  Coutts  Stuart. 
Lord  Panmure. 
Lord  F.  (jordon. 
Lord  Hastings. 
Lord  Scarborough. 
Lord  Nugent. 
Lord  Lovat. 
Lord  Templetown. 
Lord  Clenaent. 
Lord  Au^tus  Fitzckrence. 
Lord  Vivian. 
Sir  George  Chetwynd. 
Sir  Benjamin  Hall,  M.P. 
Sir  Heniy  Webb. 
Sir  Andrew  Leith  Hay,  M.P. 
Sir  D.  Le  Marchant. 
Sir  John  Guest,  M.P. 
Sir  Hesketh  Fleetwood,  M.P. 
Sir  James  Duke,  M.P. 
Sir  John  Easthope,  M.P. 
Sir.  R.  Musgrave. 

Le  Chevalier  A.  Mongaldi  (Venice). 
Sb  John  M'Neil. 


LIST  OF  PATRONS. 


Sir  Heniy  Pottinger. 
The  Bight  Honorable  Fox  Maule,  M.P. 
The  Honorable  H.  R.  Westenra. 
The  Honorable  J.  O.  Murray. 
Lieutenant-Colonel  Westenra. 
Lieutenant-Colonel  Gordon. 
Major-  General  Evans. 
Admiral  Bundas,  M.P. 
General  Sir  Alexander  Duff,  Bart. 
Genenal  Johnson. 

Le  General  Baron  de  Farincourt  (France.) 
Colonel  Sir  William  Bx)bert  Clayton. 
Colonel  White. 
Colonel  Beckwith. 
Major  Richardson. 

Captain  Noble  Caesar  de  Ladado  (Naples). 
Lieut.-Gen.  Baron  de  Warlington  (Ba- 
varia). 
Capitaine  deVaisseaux  F.  (jautier  (France). 
Aamiral  Codrington. 
El  Gen.  Martin  Joi6  de  Triarte  (Spain). 
Captain  Robert  Scherger  (Cobourg). 
The  Honorable  General  Mead. 
The  Honorable  Captain  Vivian,  M.P. 
Daniel  O'Connell,  Esq.,  M.P. 
Maurice  O'Connell,  Esq.,  M.P. 
John  O'Connell,  Esq.,  M.P. 
George  Duncan,  Esq.,  M.P. 
Edward  Ellice,  Esq.,  M.P. 
Robert  Archbold,  Esq.,  M.P. 
The  Rey.  Charles  Tumor,  D.D. 
Captain  Wemyss. 
Alston,  Rowland,  Esq. 
Basevi,  George,  Esq. 
Bryane,  W.  C.  Esq.  (America). 


Bavin  Christopher,  Esq. 

Boyd,  W.  Esq. 

Buckland,  James,  Esq. 

Hawes,  B.  Esq. 

M.  Dusillion,  Architect,  Paris. 

Barry,  Charles,  Esq. 

Bouverie,  Edward  Pleydell,  Esq. 

Collins,  William,  M.D. 

Clumy,  Thomas,  Esq. 

Clayton,  John,  Lloyd,  Esq. 

Diwett,  Thomas,  Esq. 

Dardel,  Monsieur  de. 

Dann,  Henry,  Esq. 

Faraday,  Professor. 

Gully,  John,  Esq. 

Gunston,  John,  Esq. 

Gordon,  Robert,  Esq. 

Hoare,  Charles,  Esq. 

Harmer,  James,  Esq. 

Hope,  — ,  Esq. 

Hovenden,  J.  E.  Esq. 

Humphrey,  John, •Alderman,  M.P. 

MeUk,  A.  Esq.,  (Turkey). 

Montefiore,  N.  Esq. 

Murphy,  Mr.  Sergeant. 

Oliviera,  Benjamin,  Esq. 

O'Brien,  Staftbrd,  Esq. 

Perkins,  Frederic,  Esq. 

Philips,  Mark,  Esq.,  M.P. 

Prescott,  H.  Esq. 

Rushton,  E.  A.  Esq. 

Strutt,  Edward,  Esq.,  M.P. 

Sampayo,  O.  H.  Esq. 

F.  A.  Sarg,  Esq. 

Wolfe,  J.  L.  Esq. 


PREFACE. 


At  tlie  request  of  several  persons  of  distinction,  who 
have  visited  the  Reform  Club, — ^particularly  the  ladies,  to 
whom  I  have  always  made  it  a  rule  never  to  refuse  anything 
in  my  power,  for  indeed  it  must  have  been  the  fair  sex  who 
have  had  the  majority  in  this  domestic  argument  to  gaio 
this  gastronomical  election, — ^Why  do  you  not  write  and 
publish  a  Cookeiy-book  ?  was  a  question  continually  put 
to  me.  For  a  considerable  time  this  scientific  word  caused 
a  thrill  of  horror  to  pervade  my  frame,  and  brought  back  to 
my  mind  that  one  day,  being  in  a  most  superb  library  in 
the  midst  of  a  splendid  baronial  hall,  by  chance  I  met  with 
one  of  Milton's  allegoncal  works,  the  profound  ideas  of 
Locke,  and  several  chefs-d'oeuvre  of  one  of  the  noblest 
champions  of  literature,  Shakspeare ;  when  all  at  once  my 
attention  was  attracted  by  the  nineteenth  edition  of  a 
voluminous  work :  such  an  immense  success  of  publication 
caused  me  to  say,  "  Oh !  you  celebrated  man,  posterity 
counts  every  hour  of  fame  upon  your  regretted  ashes !" 
Opening  this  work  with  intense  curiosity,  to  my  great 
disap])ointment  what  did  I  see, — ^a  receipt  for  Ox-tail  Soup  ! 
The  terrifying  effect  produced  upon  me  by  this  succulent 
volume  made  me  determine  that  my  few  ideas,  whether 
cuUnary  or  domestic,  should  never  encumber  a  sanctuary 


which  should  be  entirely  devoted  to  works  worthy  of  a  place 
in  the  Temple  of  the  Muses. 

But  you  must  acknowledge,  respected  readers,  how 
changeable  and  uncertain  are  our  feeble  ideas  through  life  ; 
to  keep  the  prouiise  above  mentioned,  I  have  been  drawn 
into  a  thousand  gastronomic  reflections,  which  have  involved 
me  in  the  necessity  of  deviating  entirely  firom  my  former 
opinion,  and  have  induced  me  to  bring  before  the  pubUc 
the  present  volume,  under  the  title  of  '  The  Gastronomic 
Kegenerator,'  throughout  which  I  have  closely  followed  the 
plain  rules  of  simplicity,  so  that  every  receipt  can  not  only 
clearly  be  understood,  but  easily  executed. 

I  now  sincerely  hope,  Ladies,  that  I  have  not  only  kept  my 
promise,  but  to  your  satisfaction  pud  tribute  to  your  wishes. 

You  have  not  forgotten,  dear  reader,  the  effect  that  mon- 
strous volume,  the  said  nineteenth  edition,  produced  upon 
me,  therefore  I  now  sincerely  beg  of  you  to  put  my  book  in 
a  place  suited  to  its  httle  merit,  and  not  with  Milton's 
subhme  Paradise,  for  there  it  certainly  would  be  doubly 
lost. 


PREFACE  TO  THE  FOURTH  EDITION. 


Thk  sale  of  three  editions  of  the  Gastronomic  Regenera- 
tor in  less  than  nine  months,  is  so  gratifying  to  my  feelings, 
that  I  should  be  wanting  in  comrtesy,  were  I  not  publicly  to 
express,  at  this  present  moment,  how  grateful  I  am  for  the 
very  flattering  testimonials  I  have  been  honoured  with  by 
the  press,  through  whom  I  have  received  such  great  encou- 
ragement firom  the  public,  who  so  handsomely  repaid  the 
laborious  work  which  I  have  devoted  to  the  gastronomic 
art. 

In  this  the  Fourth  Edition,  I  have  increased  and  improved 
the  receipts,  and  corrected  those  errors  which  unavoidably 
occur  in  so  voluminous  a  work. 

The  first  improvement  is  a  most  essential  one,  being  an 
abbreviated  table  of  contents,  referring  from  number  to  num- 
ber or  article  to  article,  and  giving  in  a  few  pages  the  trans- 
lation of  every  comestible,  which  vnll  much  facilitate  the 
making  of  bills  of  fare. 

The  second  and  still  more  important  improvement  is  my 
new  Tendon  Separator,  demonstrated  by  a  scientific  wood- 
cut, with  fiill  explanations  of  its  valuable  use  in  preparing 
poultry  and  game  for  the  table. 

I  have  added  several  new  receipts,  communicated  by 
amateurs,  which  are  not  deficient  in  good  taste. 

There  will  likewise  be  found  a  correct  engraving  of  my 


X  PREFACE  TO  THE  JOURTH  EDITION. 

Bouquet  de  Gibier,  which  met  with  so  much  success  in 
London  and  Paris  last  Christmas,  and  offers  to  noblemen 
and  gentlemen  a  new  and  pleasing  mode  of  making  pre- 
sents of  game. 

The  one  I  presented  to  His  Majesty  Louis  Philippe, 
with  a  copy  of  this  work,  met  with  the  highest  approbation 
from  the  court  of  France,  and  was  most  handsomely  ac- 
knowledged by  his  Majesty. 

I  now  most  humbly  return  thanks  to  the  public  for  their 
kind  encouragement,  and  trust  that  the  success  I  have 
hitherto  had  may  still  be  continued. 

ALEXIS  SOYER. 


DUBLIN  ; 
St.  Patrick's  Day,  1847. 


IMPORTANT. 


DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  COMPOSITION  OF  THIS  WORK. 

To  Bustain  and  deserve  the  title  of  '' Oastronomic  Regenerator/' 
nothing  but  an  entire  change  from  the  syateyi  of  any  other  publication 
on  the  art  of  Cookery  would  be  admissible,  it  is  now  in  the  hands  of  ray 
readers  to  judge  for  themsdves,  and  to  stamp  its  character  according  to 
its  merits,  eiUier  as  an  original  or  a  copy ;  to  avoid  the  last,  however,  I 
have  closely  studied  to  introduce  the  greatest  novelty  in  every  depart- 
ment, and  have  entirely  omitted  all  unnecessary  confusion,  which,  in 
many  previous  works,  have  rendered  them  unintelligible  to  the  un- 
initiated, and  almost  impracticable  to  the  initiated ;  however,  many  old 
and  useful  receipts,  too  good  to  be  omitted,  will  be  found  much  sim- 
plified— to  reduce  them  to  a  practical  point. 

I  have  also  minutely  studied  the  disposing  and  arranging  of  the 
building  of  all  sized  kitchens,  from  the  one  of  the  Reform  Club  and  the 
Kitchen  of  the  Wealthy  to  the  humble  one  of  the  cottage,  which  cannot 
fail  to  prove  useful  when  closely  followed,  as  six  years  of  experience  in 
the  kitchen  of  the  Reform  Club*  has  fidly  proved  to  me  that  those 
useful  departments  have  not  only  previously  been  much  neglected,  but 
in  many  instances  at  a  very  great  expense  still  worse  arranged  for  want 
of  practical  knowledge,  and  considering  that  the  pleasures  of  the  table 
are  an  every-day  enjoyment  which  reflects  good  and  evil  on  all  classes, 
my  readers  I  am  sure  will  agree  with  me  that  the  proper  disposing  of 
such  an  important  department  deserves  some  little  attention,  for  food 
uncomfortably  prepared  is  almost  always  unsightly,  unwholesome,  and 
consequently  indigestible,  not  being  cleanly  prepared. 

I  have  likewise  omitted  in  this  work  the  placing  of  a  long  series  of 
bills  of  fare,  which  has  been  done  in  every  previous  publication ;  although 
they  might  have  proved  useful  in  some  few  circumstances,  they  are 
seldom  referred  to,  and  often  create  confusion  in  the  composition  of  a 
dinner  by  the  difficulty  of  procuring  perhaps  the  identical  comestibles 
required  in  the  receipts  which  the  bills  of  fare  refer  to;  and  more  I 
would  venture  to  say,  that  in  no  circumstances  have  those  bills  of  fare 
been  correctly  followed ;  the  only  three  I  have  introduced  being  one  to 
arrange  my  pagodatique  service  to  grace  the  Table  of  the  Wealthy,  the 
other  the  Lucullusian  dinner,  and  the  dinner  of  my  Table  at  Home,  which 

*  A  very  minute  description  and  di'awings  of  the  kiicben  and  apparatus  will 
be  found  at  the  end  of  the  Receipts  devoted  to  the  Kitchen  of  the  Wealthy. 


XU  DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  WORK. 

will  give  a  general  idea  of  the  manner  in  which  I  asually  compose  my 
bills  of  fare,  which  of  course  may  be  increased  or  decreased  to  any  size. 
To  avoid  the  old-fashioned  method  of  giving  ten  or  twelve  for  every 
season  in  the  year,  I  have  made  the  whole  contents  of  my  book  one 
regular  bill  of  fare,  which  will  enable  the  most  inexperienced  cook,  or 
young  ladyjiist  commencing  housekeeping ^  to  compose  a  recherche  or 
economical  bill  of  fare  at  will,  being  so  distributed,  that  after  a  short 
series  of  sauces  the  bill  of  fare  commences,  being  first  the  soups,  then 
the  fish,  then  the  hors-d^oeuvres,  or  flying  dishes,  to  be  handed  round 
the  table  during  the  time  the  removes  and  entr^s  are  placing  upon  it ; 
this  is  the  usual  manr.er  I  serve  a  dinner,  which  cannot  fail  to  be  very 
hot;  and  to  prevent  confusion,  which  too  often  occurs,  I  place  a  number 
on  a  piece  of  paper  between  the  cover  and  the  dish,  with  a  correspond- 
ing number  to  the  name  of  the  dish  upon  the  bill  of  fare,  which  is  then 
forwarded  to  the  steward,  who  by  this  means  not  only  understands  the 
better  placing  it  upon  th»  table,  but  is  able  to  answer  to  any  questions 
respecting  the  dinner,  thus  saving  time  and  confusion ;  and,  above  all, 
the  dinner  will  be  very  hot  and  inviting,  which  would  not  be  the  case 
in  the  regular  system  of  laying  out  the  whole  of  the  first  course  first 
upon  the  kitchen  table,  having  to  uncover  every  dish  unnecessarily,  then 
upon  another  table  in  a  room  adjoining  the  dining-room,  and  third  and 
last,  upon  the  dining-table,  adding  to  which  the  chance  of  confusion 
and  innumerable  delays,  in  which  your  dinner  is  getting  quite  cold.  In 
a  plate  service  of  sixteen  entries,  which  I  was  directed  by  the  committee 
of  the  Reform  Club  to  order,  I  introduced  silver  sand  concealed  in 
the  heaters  ;  thus  by  placing  them  two  hours  in  a  hot  closet  previous 
to  serving,  they  will  retain  their  heat  nearly  a  couple  of  hours  longer 
upon  the  table,  but  for  further  details,  see  Pagodatique  Dish  at  the  end 
of  the  book.  But  to  return  to  the  arrangement  of  my  book :  after  the 
hor8-d*oeuvres  come  the  removes,  flancs,  entries,  in  saccession  in  the 
first  course,  and  for  the  second  the  roasts,  savoury  dishes,  vegetables, 
entremets,  and  removes  second  course ;  thus  my  readers  will  have  but 
to  turn  from  one  series  to  another  in  succession  to  arrange  their  bills 
of  fare. 

For  any  description  of  plain  joints  frequently  required  in  the  first 
course,  they  will  be  found  at  the  commencement  of  the  series  entitled 
My  Kitchen  at  Home. 

For  a  public  breakfast,  luncheon,  or  suppers,  where  everything  is 
partly  cold,  the  series  of  savoury  dishes  in  the  second  course  will  be 
found  to  facilitate  and  very  much  abbreviate  the  composition  of  the  bill 
of  fare  for  either  of  the  nbove  purposes. 

In  the  department  entitled  My  Kitchen  at  Home  will  be  found  the 
same  arrangements,  and  the  repetition  of  many  dishes  from  the  Kitchen 
of  the  Weidthy,  but  so  much  simplified  that  the  industrious  classes  of 
society  may  partake  ^ely  of  them  at  a  very  moderate  expense. 

I  shall  alAo  remark  that  my  motive  in  not  making  a  translation  to 
my  index,  but  merely  naming  at  the  commencement  of  each  series  the 
different  comestibles,  is  to  avoid  the  following  ridiculous  occurrence. 


DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  WORK.  Xlll 

that  ia,  the  making  of  bills  of  fare  in  English  from  such  curious  trans- 
latioD,  not  one  of  which  have  I  seen  deserving  publication,  being  com- 
posed of  comic  French  triviality. 

As  it  is  not  the  name  that  makes  the  dish,  I  haye  only  explained  the 
names  of  the  different  articles  by  way  of  distinction ;  I  have  also  mixed 
sereral  headings  in  French  and  English,  to  instruct  by  degrees  the  un- 
initiated in  the  art  of  making  a  correct  bill  of  fare ;  I  luiTe  also,  in 
cTery  place  where  the  heading  is  in  French,  endeayonred  to  place  the 
name  of  the  comestible  in  the  first  line  of  the  receipt.  The  reference 
by  numbers  will  be  found  unavoidably  repeated  in  many  instances, 
especially  those  referring  to  stocks,  sauces,  pastes,  or  any  of  those 
articles  which  are  the  foundations  of  any  others,  which  will  be  easily 
remembered  after  a  few  weeks'  practice  without  baring  recourse  to  the 
index. 

My  readers  will  probably  also  feel  interested  in  knowing  that,  although 
for  some  time  it  has  been  my  intention  to  write  a  work  upon  Gastronomy, 
the  laborious  and  difficult  duties  which  I  had  to  fulfil  at  the  Reform 
Club,  added  to  the  terrific  effect  which  has  produced  upon  me  the  19th 
edition  of  that  monstrous  volume  mentioned  in  the  preface,  have  often 
been  the  cause  of  my  giring  up  such  an  idea,  and  having  destroyed  my 
old  manuscripts,  it  is  only  within  the  last  ten  months  that  I  in  reality 
commenced  afresh  this  work,  in  which  lapse  of  time  I  had  to  furnish 
25,000  dinners  for  the  gentlemen  of  the  Reform  Club,  and  38  dinner 
parties  of  importance,  comprising  above  70,000  dishes,  and  to  provide 
daily  for  60  servants  of  the  establishment,  independent  of  about  15,000 
visitors  who  have  seen  the  kitchen  department  in  that  lapse  of  time. 

Although  I  am  entirely  satisfied  with  the  composition,  distribution, 
and  arrangement  of  my  book,  should  some  few  little  mistakes  be  dis- 
covered they  vrill  be  the  more  excusable  under  those  circumstances,  as 
in  many  instances  I  was  unable  to  devote  that  tedious  time  required 
for  correction  ;  and,  although  I  have  taken  all  possible  care  to  prescribe, 
by  weight  and  measure,  the  exact  quantity  of  ingredients  used  in  the 
following  receipts  for  the  seasoning  and  preparing  of  all  kinds  of  comes- 
tibles, I  roust  observe  that  the  ingredients  are  not  all  either  of  the  same 
size  or  quality ;  for  instance,  some  esgs  are  much  larger  than  others, 
some  pepper  stronger,  salt  Salter,  anaeven  some  sugar  sweeter.  In 
vegetables,  again,  were  is  a  considerable  difference  in  point  of  sise  and 
quality ;  fruit  is  subject  to  the  same  variation,  and,  in  fact,  all  descrip- 
tion of  food  is  subject  to  a  similar  fluctuation.  I  am  far,  however, 
from  taking  these  disproportions  for  excuses,  but  feel  satisfied  if  the 
medium  of  the  specified  ingredients  be  used,  and  the  receipts  in  other 
respects  closely  allowed,  nothing  can  hinder  success. 


SOYER'S  NEW  MODE  OF  CARVING. 

&c.  8cc.  &c. 


You  are  all  aware,  honorable  readers,  of  the  continual  tribulation  in 
carving  at  table,  for  appetites  more  or  less  colossal,  and  when  all  eyes 
are  fixed  upon  you  with  anxious  avidity.  Very  few  persons  are  perfect 
in  this  useful  art,  which  requires  not  only  grace,  but  a  great  deal  of 
skill.  Others  become  very  nervous ;  many  complain  of  the  knife,  which 
has  not  the  least  objection  to  be  found  fault  with ;  or  else  they  say,  this 
capon,  pheasant,  or  poularde  is  not  young,  and  consequently  not  of  the 
best  quality.     You  may  sometimes  be  right,  but  it  certainly  often  hap- 

Sens  that  the  greatest  gourmet  is  the  worst  carver,  and  complains  sadly 
urine  that  very  long  process,  saying  to  himself,  "  I  am  last  to  be 
servea ;  my  dinner  will  be  cold." 

Reproaches  of  this  kind  are  daily  addressed  to  the  culinary  artiste, 
who  remembers  perfectly  well  having  burned  his  fingers  whilst  sending 
up  those  important  removes.  To  illustrate  this  just  question  I  will 
relate  a  curious  and  historic  anecdote : — having  one  day  served  a  petit 
diner,  tr^s  recherchS,  for  five  persons,  in  which  was  a  poularde  k 
Fambassadrice,  a  new  and  rather  voluminous  dish  of  mine,  after  the 
first  course  a  message  was  sent  to  me  that  the  gentlemen  had  found 
that  dish  so  good  they  regretted  I  had  not  sent  two  poulardes  instead 
of  one  ;  at  first  I  took  this  message  for  &  pleasantry,  but  a  short  time 
after  three  parts  of  the  poularde  came  down  in  a  state  that  if  exposed 
over  a  laundry  door  would  have  served  for  a  sign,  without  having 
recourse  to  those  popular  words,  "  mangling  done  here ;"  the  sight  of 
a  dish  so  greatly  disfigured  made  me  collect  a  few  of  my  little  culinary 
ideas.  Nature,  says  I  to  myself,  compels  us  to  dine  more  or  less  once 
a  day ;  each  of  those  days  you  are,  honorable  reader,  subject  to  meet  en 
tHe-h-tite  with  a  fowl,  poularde,  duck,  pheasant,  or  other  voktUe 
species;  is  it  not  bad  enough  to  have  sacrificed  the  lives  of  those 
animaux  bienfaiaans  to  satisfy  our  indefatigable  appetites,  without 
pulling  and  tearing  to  atoms  the  remains  of  our  benefactors  ?  it  is  high 
time  for  the  cedit  of  humanity  and  the  comfort  of  quiet  families,  to 
put  an  end  to  the  massacre  of  those  innocents. 

Amongst  other  tribulations  of  carving  I  shall  relate  a  most  houfonne 
anecdote.  ''  If  you  should,  unhappily,  be  forced  to  carve  at  table," 
says  Launcelot  Sturgeon,  in  his  Essays,  Moral,  Philosophical,  and 
Stomachic,  ''neither  labour  at  the  joint  until  you  put  yourself  into  a 
heat,  nor  make  such  a  desperate  effort  to  dissect  it  as  may  put  your 
neighbours  in  fear  of  their  lives ;  however,  if  any  accident  should  happen, 
make  no  excuses,  for   they  are  only  an  acknowledgment  of  awk- 


NEW   MODE   OF   CARVING.  ZV 

wndnesft.  We  remember  to  have  seen  a  man  of  high  fashion  deposit 
ft  turkey  in  this  way  in  the  lap  of  a  lady,  but  with  admirable  compo- 
sure, and  without  offering  the  sl^htest  apology,  he  finished  a  story 
vhich  he  was  telling  at  the  same  time,  and  then,  quietly  turning  to 
her,  merely  said,  *  Madam,  I'll  thank  you  for  that  turkey.'"  My 
eonsdence  will  not  allow  me  to  swear  to  the  authenticity  of  the  fact, 
bvt  in  the  conrse  of  twelve  months  past  I  have  witnessed  a  very  simi* 
lar  instance,  only  the  party  not  possessiBg  the  assurance  of  the  fashion- 
able above  mentioned,  did  not  continue  the  conversation,  but  in  his 
nerrous  anxiety,  endeavouring  to  replace  it  on  the  dish  with  vivacity, 
sent  it  rolling  across  the  table  to  his  right-hand  neighbour,  who 
q[uickly  perceiving  the  imminent  danger  in  which  he  was  placed,  for- 
tunately arrested  its  farther  progress  with  his  fork.  One  hearty  laugh 
of  the  remaining  party  terminated  this  scene  of  confusion. 

After  a  short  consideration  I  found,  by  a  most  simple  rule,  and  with 
the  greatest  fkcility,  that  a  bird  that  would  take  ten  minutes  to  carve 
very  badly  may  be  done  well  in  two  or  three  by  the  most  inexperienced 
person.  From  this  process  a  number  of  advantages  may  be  derived : 
first,  you  may  eat  your  dinner  much  hotter ;  secondly,  you  can  make 
eight  or  ten  pieces  of  a  fowl,  or  any  other  bird,  where,  previously,  great 
difficulty  was  experienced  in  making  five  or  six ;  and  each  person  will 
thereby  be  enabled  to  choose  a  favorite  piece ;  a  large  bird,  such  as 
turkey,  poularde,  capon,  &c.,  will  be  fit  to  reappear  on  your  table  in 
a  very  inviting  state.  I  must  also  observe  that  the  birds  are  not  in 
the  least  disfigured,  but,  on  the  contrary,  their  appearance  is  much 
improved. 


DIEECTIONS  FOR  CARVING. 

By  the  simple  process  which  I  have  efiected  for  the  jointing  of  game 
or  smaU  poultry,  with  a  long  pointed  pair  of  scissors,  separating  the 
sinews  which  join  the  wings  to  the  breast,  making  the  incision  as  small 
as  posrible,  and  also  jointing  the  legs,  by  passing  your  finger  between 
the  akin  and  the  flesh,  pressing  the  legs  over  the  breast  with  the  left 
haiMi,  the  separadon  of  the  joints  may  be  easily  effected  and  havinff 
thus  detached  the  fonr  principal  parts>  the  carving,  when  roasted,  wifi 
be  very  simple.  But  for  the  jointing  of  large  birds,  as  turkeys,  geese, 
capons,  &c.,  procure  an  instrument  I  invented  for  that  purpose  from 
Bramah's,  Piccadilly,  with  whieh  a  very  intelligible  printed  direction 
wfll  be  giveii  for  its  use ;  after  having  jointed  the  bird,  truss  it  with  a 
paeking-nee^e  and  string,  as  usual,  but  not  pressing  them  so  tightly, 
or  they  woidd  become  deformed,  whilst,  on  the  contrary,  if  merely 
brought  to  their  usual  idhape,  they  will  lo<^  as  plump  as  possiUe,  and 
^  prooesB  they  have  previously  uadei^ne  will  be  totidly  imperceptible. 
In  many  instances  where  I  have  sent  poultry  to  table  thus  previously 
jointed,  the  parties  carving  have  been  quite  surprised  at  their  vnex- 
peeled  progress  in  that  dimcuH  art.  Formerly  nothing  was  more  dif- 
ieult  to  csrve  than  wild  fowl,  the  continual  motion  (when  ahve)  of  the 
lings  mnd  legs  making  the  sinews  almost  as  tough  as  wires,  puzzling 


Zn  NKW   MODE   OF   CARVING. 

the  best  of  carvers  to  separate  them ;  my  new  method  hu  (^aite  abo- 
lished anch  a  domestic  tribnlation.  A  loog  and  dry  deacnption  for 
the  carving  of  each  bird  separately  would  be  entirely  oeeleu,  ae  every 
one  of  my  readers  will  have  perceived  that  almost  the  .whole  difRculty 
is  defeated  by  this  simple  process ;  I  shall  therefore  leave  the  subject, 
making  but  the  following  obserration,  which  is,  that  in  everything  I 
dislike  a  straight  line,  and  still  more  so  in  carving  any  kind  of  bird, 
by  doing  which  you  not  only  spoil  their  appearance,  bnt  cut  against 
the  grain,  causing  them  to  eat  ary  and,  imperceptibly,  obliging  yoa  to 
assist  some  of  the  guests  to  very  thick  pieces,  unless  the  breast  is  very 
full  and  plump.  I  have  here  given  a  simple  woodcut  of  a  siaall  tnrkey, 
by  which  yoa  will  easily  perceive,  that  by  trussing  and  carving  in  my 
new  way,  as  represented,  you  will  be  enabled  to  csrve  for  more  people, 
assisting  each  to  better  slices  with  a  middling-siied  fowl,  or  any  other 
bird,  than  with  a  larger  one  trussed  and  carved  in  the  osual  method. 
Keep,  if  possible,  the  legs  in  the  position  indicated  in  the  design  ;  any 
sm^  birds,  such  as  woodcocks,  plovers,  snipes,  or  teal,  are  generally 
cut  into  two  or  four,  being  easily  carved,  but  for  anything  above  their 
size  the  foregoing  plan  had  better  be  acted  upon. 


Respecting  the  carving  of  any  description  of  joints,  it  may  be  more 
simply  explained.  For  a  saddle  of  mutton  or  lamb,  proceed  precisely 
as  directed  for  the  saddle-back  (page  644),  and  for  a  round  or  aitcb- 
bone  of  beef,  proceed  as  sdentificsJly  explained  (pages  641-3)  by  the 
carver  of  this  mighty  dish. 

For  the  ribs  or  sirloin  of  beef,  pass  the  knife  between  the  chine- 
bone  and  the  flesh  to  about  an  inch  in  depth,  but  only  to  about  the  * 
length  you  think  sufficient  to  cut  as  many  slices  irom  as  yon  may  re- 
quire ;  then  having  a  sharp  knife,  cut  off  the  outside  slice  very  thinly 
(which,  if  roasted  according  to  my  new  plan,  will  be  very  good,  espe- 
cially where  parties  have  an  objection  to  their  meat  the  least  under- 
done) ;  hold  Tonr  knife  a  tittle  in  a  slanting  direction,  and  continue 
cntting  iMn  uices  from  the  chine  to  the  end,  especially  with  the  ribs, 
which  are  more  lean,  bnt  it  is  preferable  to  leave  all  the  ends  of  the 
sirloin  in  the  dish  tm  yon  carve,  if  not  wanted,  or  after  having  carved 
two  or  three  plates  yon  are  forced  to  dig  the  lean  out,  which  is  not 
only  often,  but  generally  done  in  a  club-house  where  a  scientific  carver 


NBW    HODB    OF   CARVING.  Xm 

is  not  employed  ;  if  a  slice  from  a  fiUet  of  a  sirloin  is  required,  the 
senrant  must  take  the  joint  to  the  sideboard,  and  tarn  it  over  with  a 
oonple  of  forks,  when  again  placed  upon  the  table,  the  carver  must 
carefolly  part  some  of  the  fat  which  covers  it,  if  too  much,  then  cut 
short  slices  in  a  slanting  direction,  as  if  from  the  breast  of  a  fowl,  in- 
stead of  crosswise,  for  then  if  clumsily  carved  and  overdone  it  has  a 
strong  resemblance  to  an  old  strap. 

For  a  ramp  of  beef,  either  roasted  or  stewed,  always  commence  at 
'the  fifcttest  end,  carving  in  a  slanting  direction,  by  which  means  you 
will  obtain  a  correct  quantity  of  that  delicate  article,  if  even  you  should 
be  carving  for  twenty  people,  whilst  by  cutting  straight  across^  some 
would  haYe  the  greater  proportion  fat  and  the  remainder  nothing  but 
lean.  Any  other  piece  of  beef  rolled  and  stewed,  and  fillets  of  beef,  as 
served  for  a  remove,  all  require  to  be  carved  in  a  slanting  direction. 

For  a  fillet  of  veal,  proceed  in  the  same  manner  as  directed  for  a 
round  of  beef. 

A  loin  of  veal,  if  cut  straight  at  the  commencement,  is  entirely 
spoiled,  but  when  carved  slantingly  (if  well  done  from  the  best  end), 
and  eaten  with  its  own  gravy,  nowing  could  be  nicer,  the  remaining 
is  then  also  Tery  good  cold,  even  the  kidney  ought  to  be  served  the 
same ;  and  the  breasts,  either  roasted  or  stewed,  require  the  same  style 
of  carving. 

For  legs  of  mutton  or  lamb  I  also  proceed  in  a  new  way :  the  fHll, 
which  ia  placed  upon  the  knuckle-bone,  is  not  only  intended  to  orna- 
ment the  leg,  but  likewise  to  enable  you  to  hold  the  bone  with  your 
left  hand,  and  carving  with  the  right,  which  would  wonderfully  facili- 
tate the  operation.  Instead  of  cutting  across  the  middle,  which  opens 
all  parts  at  once,  thus  losing  a  great  deal  of  the  succulence,  I  com- 
mence carving  at  about  two  inches  from  the  knuckle,  beginning 
with  the  heel  of  the  knife,  drawing  it  along  to  the  point,  cutting 
six  or  ^ht  slices  at  once,  more  or  less  if  required,  then  pass  the  knife 
beneath  the  whole,  detaching  them  from  the  bone,  thus  helping  each 
person  qnickly  and  with  very  hot  meat,  the  gravy  remaining  in  the 
meat  will  keep  it  moistened  in  good  order  for  cold,  whilst  in  the 
general  manner  you  have  nothing  but  dry  meat,  or  if  underdone  on 
purpose  for  cold,  the  meat  will  always  have  a  black  appearance.  This 
is  my  way  of  carving  at  home,  but  if  objectionable  to  take  the  frill 
with  the  fingers,  make  use  of  the  carving-fork ;  at  home  I  never  allow 
any  gravy  to  be  put  into  the  dish,  but  served  separately  in  a  boat,  but 
if  the  meat  is  of  good  quality  it  will  supply  (if  well  roasted)  an  abun- 
dance of  good  gravy.  If  for  the  table  of  the  wealthy,  commence 
carving  the  leg  nearer  to  the  centre,  but  always  in  a  slanting  direction. 

For  shoulders  of  mutton  or  lamb  to  eat  well  and  delicate,  the  fat 
and  lean  must  be  well  mixed  in  serving,  to  accomplish  which  the  joint 
must  be  carved  in  a  stUl  more  slanting  direction  than  the  leg»,  also  be- 
ginning rather  near  to  the  knuckle. 

For  necks  and  loins  of  mutton,  never  separate  the  bones  of  either 
with  a  chopper,  or  you  will  partially  mutilate  the  meat,  thus  losing 
all  the  gravy  in  roasting,  and  frequently  have  great  difficulty  in  carving, 
but  separate  the  joints  with  a  sniall  saw  as  neatly  as  possible,  cutting 
in  the  direction  you  require  to  carve. 

b 


XTm  MRW   MODI   OF  CAKVING. 

For  ribs  of  lamb,  which  should  be  properly  piep«red  for  earring  be- 
fore being  routed,  haviiig  the  centre  of  the  bonea  broken,  with  the 
chine-bone  detached ;  to  carve,  you  mnat  of  cour«e  follow  the  bonea, 
which  ran  rather  al&ntingly,  helping  each  person  to  a  cutlet  from  the 
neck,  with  a  slice  of  the  breast,  but  not  cut  too  thick ;  by  following  this 
plan,  each  person  will  hare  partaken  of  the  breast,  which,  without  con- 
tradiction, is  the  most  delicate  part  (but  which  is  most  frequently  left 
to  be  eaten  when  dry  and  cold),  and  if  any  remain,  being  evenly 
carved,  will  be  very  presentable  to  table  on  the  following  day. 

To  carve  a  ham  proceed  very  similar  to  the  manner  duected  for  th« 
earring  of  a  leg  of  mntton,  commeudng  two  inches  from  the  knoeklr, 
cutting  very  thin  and  delicate  slices,  Wanting  more  and  more  as  you 
proceed,  or  you  will  have  nothing  but  fat  left  at  the  extremity. 

To  carve  an  ox-tongne,  stick  your  fork  into  the  root,  and  cut  a  thin 
aliee  off,  placing  the  heel  of  the  knife  upon  it,  which  draw  along  Ui  the 
point,  thus  taking  the  shce  off  in  one  cut,  leaving  it  upon  the  dish, 
and  serving  the  inner  slices  cut  in  the  same  manner,  but  very  thin  and 
dehcate,  yon  will  thus  have  carved  the  best  part  of  it  easily  without 
disfi^ring  the  whole,  still  having  a  decent  piece  remaining  for  cold, 
but  if  you  had  commenced  in  the  middle  you  would  at  once  spoil  the 
appearance,  and  the  remainder  would  eat  dry  when  oold. 

Nothing  is  more  creditable  to  a  carver  than  leaving  a  piece  of  either 
meat,  game,  or  poultry  fit  to  reappear  at  table  in  an  inviting  state. 


HOW  TO  CARVE  A  HAUNCH  OF  VENISON. 

The  above  engraving  represents  a  haunch  of  venison,  cooked  as 
No.  540,  and  ready  for  carving,  the  beck-bone  of  the  loin  being  first 
partly  taken  out  to  iacilitate  the  operation,  as  marked  by  letters  and 
lines  in  the  drawing.  The  carving-knife  must  be  ehup  ;  put  the 
point  of  it  an  inch  deep  fo)m  letter  A  to  B,  and  draw  it  in  a  slanting 
direction  &om  letter  A  to  A,  so  on  from  B  to  B,  but  go  a  Uttle  deeper 
in,  according  to  the  thickness  of  your  haunch,  and  avoid  making  a 
hole  through  any  part  of  it,  as  a  well  must  he  reserved  to  give  half  a 
spoonful  of  gravy  to  every  plate,  each  of  two  thin  aUces.  If  you  are 
to  help  more  than  eight  or  ten  persons  from  the  haunch,  then  carve 


NEW   MODE   or   CAKYING.  XU 

the  loin  at  the  same  time  as  the  thickest  part,  from  C  C  to  D  D,  and 
give  to  each  gaest  a  slice  from  each  part,  by  which  you  will  quickly 
perceiTe  that  you  have  fairly  cut  the  meat,  and  that  each  person  wiU 
have  had  his  proper  quantity  of  fat,  and  ifrom  first  to  last  each  shce 
▼ill  be  very  inviting ;  serve  on  very  hot  plates  of  silver  if  possible. 
Every  amateur  of  venison  knows,  that  without  its  due  quantity  of  fat 
it  is  hardly  eatable ;  I  would  therefore  advise  those  who  still  wish  to 
carve  haunches  on  the  old  system,  to  calculate  how  many  opiates  they 
have  to  carve  for,  otherwise  they  are  sure  to  be  misled,  if  they  do 
not  take  the  trouble  to  ascertain  the  number  who  are  to  be  helped. 
My  new  system  possesses  an  advantage,  which  is,  that  if  six  or  eight 
persona  only  partake  of  a  haunch,  the  remains  of  it  are  in  a  fine  state, 
and  fit  to  be  cut  into  large  sUces  for  another  dinner,  by  merely  putting 
a  few  spoonfuls  of  gravy  with  the  slices  into  a  sautepan,  over  a  sharp 
fire  for  three  minutes ;  turn  them  carefully,  season  with  httle  salt,  a 
tcaapoonfiil  of  currant  jelly,  turn  thd  slices  two  or  three  times  over 
untu  the  jelly  is  dissolved,  serve  on  a  very  hot  dish,  but  be  careful  not 
to  let  the  slices  boil  in  the  pan,  or  else  they  will  become  very  tough. 
If  any  remain,  make  a  hash  as  No.  784,  or  pie.  No.  785. 


ANOTHBR  SUCCESSFUL  WAT. 

When  I  am  called  to  carve  a  haunch  of  venison  for  eighteen  or 
twenty  I  proceed  as  follows:  I  take  ofi*  the  flat  bone,  previous  to 
roasting,  at  the  back  of  the  loin,  and  pass  the  knife  from  the  knuckle 
aU  along  the  lower  part  of  the  flap,  which  is  left  about  two  inches 
wide ;  I  then  begin  to  cut  in  a  slanting  direction,  as  the  drawing 
represents,  from  the  beginning  of  the  loin,  through  the  leg  as  far  as 
the  knuckle,  without  reserving  a  well  for  gravy,  and  in  fact  1  have  found 
it  to  be  better,  as  every  slice  you  cut  through  the  leg  produces  its  own 
gravy  boiling  hot,  which  unavoidably  gets  cold  in  the  well  formed  the 
other  way  of  carving.  Do  not  omit  to  save  some  fat  for  the  next  day, 
as  your  hash  or  pie  would  be  insipid. 

Haunch  of  iQUtton  or  lamb  may  be  carved  either  way. 

For  necks  of  venison,  pass  your  knife  across  the  lower  part  of  the 
ribs,  about  four  inches  below  the  thickest  part,  then  cut  sUces  in  a 
slanting  direction,  not  interfering  with  the  bone,  as  I  have  previously 
explained.     For  shoulders,  see  Shoulder  of  Mutton,  page  645. 


SADDLEBACK  OF  VEMSON. 


Having  made  a  trial  with  Mr.  Grove  of  Charing  Cross  of  cutting  a 
buck  to  produce  a  saddleback  of  venison,  as  I  have  done  of  mutton 
(page  644),  we  succeeded  remarkably  well,  and  obtained  a  most 
splendid  joint  that  ever  could  be  placed  before  an  epicure;  but  it 
cannot  be  generally  adopted,  except  in  the  country,  where  gentlemen 


XX  CARTING   OF   POULTRY. 

keep  their  own  park  of  deer,  as  we  found  it  interfered  with  both  legs, 
which  look  like  legs  of  mutton,  and  deprived  them  of  the  best  part  of 
the  fat,  which  cannot  be  dispensed  with :  in  other  respects  they  are 
excellent  for  pies. 

I  have  also  introduced  a  saucihre^  made  like  a  coffee-pot^  heated  by 
a  spirit-lamp  underneath,  filled  with  good  veal  or  beef  gravy,  to  be 
taken  round  to  each  guest ;  the  great  heat  of  the  gravy  poured  over 
the  slices  of  venison,  mixed  with  the  gravy  already  helped  from  the 
haunch,  makes  a  fine  thick  mixture,  by  which  this  delightful  and 
noble  joint  is  really  enjoyed ;  the  currant  jeUy  always  served  ought 
not  to  be  too  sweet  or  too  firm. 

French  beans,  usually  served  with  venison,  ought  to  be  very  young 
and  green,  weU  dried,  and  very  hot  when  sent  to  table ;  in  case  they 
could  not  be  obtained,  send  up  cauliflower  or  young  brocoli  with  it ; 
however  I  must  here  observe,  that  these  vegetables  are  very  unpalat- 
able, as  nothing  disagrees  more  with  currant  jelly  than  French  beans 
and  brocoli.  I  have  substituted  tomatas/arct,  as  described  No.  1099, 
when  in  season,  and  served  on  a  silver  dish  :  they  were  much  approved 
of.  Plain  broiled  tomatas  must  be  cut  across,  with  the  juice  extracted 
without  breaking ;  then  put  on  the  gridiron,  with  salt  and  pepper,  on 
a  very  sharp  ^^y  turn  them,  when  done  dish  up,  add  a  little  butter 
over  each,  and  send  very  hot. 


CABVING  OP  POULTBY. 

A  fowl  which  has  been  prepared  with  the  Tendon  Separator  before 
roasting,  can  produce  afterwards  ten  very  inviting  pieces,  suitable  to 
the  fancy  of  as  many  guests. 

In  the  first  place  you  take  a  carving  fork,  which  you  stick  in  the 
breast,  between  figs.  5  and  6,  then  you  give  a  cut  at  the  fillet,  beginning 
at  1  down  to  2,  where  you  make  the  point  of  the  knife  cut  through 
the  joint  of  the  wing,  which  by  twisting  a  little  wiU  easily  come 
asunder.  The  same  operation  is  done  from  3  to  4;  and  without 
removing  the  fork,  you  slide  the  knife  under  the  leg  at  7>  and  the  same 
at  8,  and  both  legs  will  immediately  separate.  The  next  cut  is  to  be 
given  at  5  to  6,  and  afterwards  the  back  \r  divided  in  the  same  direc- 
tion as  the  last  numbers — as  each  leg  is  divided  at  the  joint  commonly 
called  drumstick,  it  completes  the  ten  parts. 

A  Duck.  The  best  part  of  a  duck  is  the  breast,  which  should  be 
cut  in  fillets  obliquely,  then  the  wings  and  the  legs,  the  same  as  the 
fowl,  and  the  body  in  two. 

A  Pheasant.  The  best  parts  are  the  breast  and  legs,  which  are 
carved  the  same  as  a  fowl. 

A  Pabtridge.     The  wings  and  the  body  are  the  best  parts. 

A  roast  Hare  must  be  cut  along  the  spine,  from  the  neck  downwards 
to  obtain  the  fillets,  which  ought  then  to  be  divided  in  parts,  in  the 
same  oblique  direction  as  the  ribs.  The  legs  and  shoulders  are  seldom 
carved,  but  they  are,  with  the  body,  excellent  in  a  hash  or  stewed. 


THK  TENDON   SXFARATOR. 


SOYEE'S  TENDON  SEPARATOR. 

The  woodcDt  at  p.  xziii  represenU  one  of  the  moBt  serviceable  of 
iutrnmenta.  Its  object  ii  to  relieve  carrera,  more  or  leas  proficient, 
■nd  moat  become  indiapenuble  for  the  use  of  all  cooka  and  poulterers 
in  diajointing  the  ToU^ile  apeciea  previoua  to  d-ussing,  roasting,  or 
boiliof. 

To  a  clever  cairer,  aitting  at  a  hometT  table  or  public  banquet,  it 
■attera  little  whether  all  eye*  are  fixed  upon  him  or  a  fideetj  foot- 
■HU  ia  at  hia  elbow.  He  quietly  tUatributea  the  aeTeral  dainties 
according  to  the  fiincy  of  the  guests,  and  everything  goea  on  in  com- 
fort. Bat  to  a  person  inexperienced,  the  notion  of  heug  placed  at  either 


Zxil  THE   TBNDOM    SBPABATOR. 

end  of  the  table,  to  stay  the  rayenoas  appetite  of  some  of  the  guests, 
causes  such  a  nervous  excitement,  that  it  is  not  an  uncommon  thing  to 
see  the  splashing  of  sauce  and  gravy  on  those  around — perchance  the 
sudden  lappearance  of  an  unfortunate  limb  flying  with  terrific  velocity 
on  a  lady*s  dress,  the  whole  of  the  company  being  thus  thrown  into 
confusion — the  poor  carver's  apologies  received  with  black  looks^  and 
the  harmony  of  the  party  placed  in  jeopardy. 

It  is  with  a  view  to  extricate  society  from  such  an  awkward  position 
that  the  inventor  offers  to  the  public  the  Tendon  Separator,  as  a 
medium  by  which  any  gentleman  may  boldly  take  the  carving-knife  in 
hand,  and  be  delighted  to  comply  with  the  invitation  of  the  Amphytrion : 
instead  of  inspiring  fear,  he  will  be  admired  for  his  ability  in  gracefully 
dividing  a  favorite  piece  of  game  or  poultry. 

The  simplicity  of  the  operation  will  easily  convince  any  one  that 
the  Tendon  Separator  possesses  all  that  is  required  to  remove 
awkwardness  in  carving ;  the  only  necessity  being  to  divide  the  ten- 
dons in  the  joints,  the  toughness  of  which  is  the  difficulty*  to  be  over- 
come, and  often  abandoned  to  make  a  desperate  cut  at  the  bones ;  hence 
arise  the  accidents  above  mentioned. 

The  following  instructions  will  enable  all  cooks  and  poulterers  to 
prepare  game  and  poultry  for  the  table,  perfectly  free  from  opposition 
to  any  carver's  knife. 


THB  TENDON  SEPA.RATOB 

Is  represented  shut  when  done  with,  by  merely  slipping  the  brass 
ring  to  keep  the  spring  in  its  place,  and  open  when  in  the  act  of  being 
used;  the  straight  part  of  the  handle,  with  the  ring,  resting  in  the  palm 
of  the  hand  between  the  thumb  and  the  fore-finger.  When  about 
separating  the  tendons  and  otherwise  dividing  other  parts  of  your  fowl 
or  bird,  you  begin  by  turning  the  skin  over  the  wings  and  cutting  the 
tendons  (No.  1,  p.  xxiv)  in  each  of  the  joints ;  and  then  by  taking  hold  of 
that  part  commonly  called  the  drumstick  with  your  right  hand  and  the 
skin  being  already  turned,  you  can  easily  get  at  the  joint  (No.  2) 
by  making  it  come  out,  to  cut  the  tendons  of  each  leg ;  on  turning  the 
Separator  with  the  points  upwards,  you  give  a  cut  at  the  breast-bone 
(No.  4)^  and,  by  holding  the  instrument  with  both  hands,  immediately 
after  turning  the  points  downwards,  you  also  give  a  cut  at  the  back-bone 
(No.  5),  and  then,  the  four  tendons  being  cut,  the  limbs  are  brought 
back  io  their  former  position.  Then  you  introduce  the  instrument  into 
the'body  at  the  other  end  of  the  bird,  and  with  your  left  hand  you  take 
hold  of  the  thigh-bone,  which  you  also  divide  at  No.  3,  and  again 
turning  the  points  downwards,  you  give  another  cut  at  the  back- 
bone No.  5 ;  with  little  practice  the  cuts  at  the  breast  and  back- 
bone, are  made  without  interfering  in  the  least  with  the  skin ;  then 
you  truss  the  bird  in  the  common  way,  but  a  packing-needle  and 
thread  are  to  be  preferred,  as  explained  at  page  xv.  When  roasted, 
the  appearance  of  the  poultry  is  vastly  improved  by  this  simple 
operation,  it  looks  more  plump  on  account  of  the  sinews  having  lost 
their  power  of  contraction  whilst  roasting ;  therefore,  when  the  biru 


J 


THK   TENDOM    SEPARATOR. 


XX  TUB   TENDON   8KPAHATOR. 

comes  to  table,  the  carver  has  merely  to  pass  the  knife  in  the  naual 
manner  to  take  up  the  wings  and  legs,  and  finds  uo  resistance ;  the 
aame  at  the  breast  and  the  back,  where  it  may  easily  be  seen  whilst 
earring  that  it  has  already  been  prepared. 

Three  minutes  is  about  the  time  taken  by  this  new  process  to  cut 
into  ten  parts  an  ordinary  fowl. 

For  a  Turkey  or  a  Goose,  the  sinews  are  divided  bb  above,  and  in  the 
act  of  carving,  instead  of  cutting  the  fillets  in  a  straight  line  with  the 
breast-bone,  yon  separate  them  obliquely,  and  all  other  parts  as  usual. 

Pheasants,  Ducks,  and  all  Wild  Fowl  especially,  must  be  prepared  in 
a  similar  manner. 

A  Hare  or  Rabbit  may  also  have  the  sinews  and  back-bone  divided ; 
to  effect  this  you  lay  the  hare  upon  its  back,  and  give  six  cuts  ueaiiy 
through  the  back-bone,  holding  the  Separator  with  both  hand% 
through  the  belly  part;  then  you  truss  it  for  roasting.  If  it  should 
happen  to  be  a  very  lai%e  hare,  the  fillets  only  are  carved,  and  they 
ought  to  be  cut  in  thin  eiices  in  an  oblique  direction,  instead  of  stnught 
along  the  back. 

T/ithalftfa  Fovl  with  lhtJU»h  on.  Tht  ha^  itf  a  Fmiit  ditiicled. 


LARDING.  TVr 

DIRECTIONS  FOR  LARDING. 

My  motiTe  for  introducmg  the  directioDB  for  larding  at  the  com- 
mencement of  this  work,  is  to  give  it  the  importance  which  it  deserves. 
it  having  in  all  former  works  been  generally  omitted*  or  lost  amongst 
a  multitude  of  receipts,  which  has  made  me  desirous  of  placing 
it  in  a  conspicuous  place,  in  the  hope  that  many  families  in  the  middle 
classes  of  society  may  be  able  to  partake  of  that  very  inexpensive  luxury. 

Nothing  but  experience  and  practice  would  enable  a  person  to  lard 
well,  I  have,  therefore,  given  tne  few  following  directions,  so  that  a 
person  might  improve  himself  after  once  commencing.  I  have  been 
induced  to  do  so  from  the  fact  of  having  had  many  female  cooks 
with  me  for  improvement,  many  of  whom  could  send  up  very  good 
dinners,  but  few  of  them  have  scarcely  known,  or  had  any  idea  of 
larding,  being  in  the  habit  of  having  it  done  by  their  poulterer  whilst 
in  London,  and  in  the  country  avoiding  it  entirely :  I  shall,  therefore, 
endeavour  to  explain,  first,  the  choice  of  the  bacon ;  secondly,  the 
manner  of  cutting  it ;  and  lastly,  the  best  mode  of  larding. 

Choose  the  firmest  bacon  you  can  obtain,  quite  fat,  and  not  at  all 
red,  or  it  would  break  and  cause  a  deal  of  trouble.  To  cut  it,  take  off 
the  piece  of  lean  at  the  bottom,  lay  it  upon  a  board  with  the  rind 
upwards,  and  beat  gently  with  a  cutlet-bat,  trim  the  sides,  and  cut  it 
into  bands  the  breadth  that  you  may  require  your  lardons  in  length  ; 
if  for  a  fillet  of  beef,  two  inches ;  for  fricandeau,  turkey,  poularde, 
fowl,  pheasant,  or  sweetbread,  an  inch  and  a  half;  and  for  lamb's 
sweatbreads  much  smaller.  Take  one  of  the  bands,  place  it  before 
you  with  the  rind  downwards,  and  with  a  sharp  knife  cut  it  in  slices, 
(but  not  separating  it  from  the  rind),  of  the  thickness  you  require  for 
the  article  you  are  about  to  lard,  Uien  place  your  hand  at  the  top, 
press  lightly,  and  draw  your  knife  straight  along  as  if  cutting  the 
bacon  in  slices,  so  as  to  form  the  lardons  square  at  each  end,  com- 
mencing cutting  from  the  heel  of  the  knife,  and  finishing  at  the  point. 

To  lard,  the  French  method  is  so  familiar  to  me  that  I  cannot  but 
recommend  it,  especially  to  inexperienced  hands.  If  a  fricandeau,  lay 
it  lengthwise  upon  a  dean  napkin  across  your  hand,  forming  a  kind  of 
bridge  with  your  thumb  at  the  part  you  are  about  to  commence  at, 
having  previously  taken  all  the  skin  from  the  veal  with  a  knife, 
then  with  the  point  of  your  larding-needle  make  three  distinct 
lines  across,  half  an  inch  apart,  run  your  needle  into  the  third  line 
(at  the  further  side  of  the  fricandeau),  and  bring  it  out  at  the  first, 
placing  one  of  the  lardons  in  it,  draw  the  needle  through,  leaving  out 
a  quarter  of  an  inch  of  the  end  of  the  bacon  at  each  line :  proceed  thus 
to  the  end  of  the  row ;  then  make  another  line  half  an  inch  distant, 
stick  in  another  row  of  lardons,  bringing  them  out  at  the  second  line, 
leaving  the  ends  of  the  bacon  out  all  of  the  same  length ;  make  the 
next  row  again  at  the  same  distance,  bringing  the  enos  out  between 
the  lardons  of  the  first  row,  proceeding  in  like  manner  until  you  have 
larded  the  whole  surface  in  chequered  rows  :  proceed  in  a  similar  way 
with  eyerything'you  lard,  the  difference  being  only  in  the  size  of  the 
lardons,  and  in  the  case  of  poultry  or  game,  previously  scald  the  breasts. 
By  following  closely  the  above  simple  directions  any  cook  may  be  able, 
if  not  to  lard  well,  at  any  rate  to  lard  well  enough  for  every-day  use, 
which  would  give  practice,  and  likewise  competence,  to  lard  articles 
required  upon  more  particular  occasions. 


XXTl  REMARKS. 

MEAT  AND  POULTRY. 

A  PEW  THINGS  1  OBJECt  TO,  THAT  I8,  NOT  TO  USE  IN    COOKERY   COMES- 
TIBLES WHEN  OUT  OF,  OB  BEFORE,  THEIR  PROPER  SEASON. 

For  Batcher*8  Meat,  see  page  637,  Kitchen  at  Home. 

In  Poultry.  I  never  use  turkeys  before  Michaelmasi  and  not  after 
the  latter  end  of  March. 

Ditto  turkey  poults  before  the  end  of  Junci  and  not  after  September. 

Capons,  poulardes,  pullets,  and  fowls,  I  use  all  the  year  round.  I 
begin  about  March  with  the  spring  chickens,  till  the  beginning  of  July. 

Oeese  are  in  season  almost  all  the  year  round. 

Gbslings,  or  green  geese,  commence  early  in  the  spring,  and  are 
called  so  till  the  end  of  September,  thus  there  is  hardly  any  difference 
between  them  and  the  Michaelmas  geese. 

Ducka  and  ducklings  the  same. 

Rabbits  and  pigeons  may  be  used  all  the  year  round  ;  but  it  is  only 
in  the  early  part  of  the  spring  that  I  use  tame  rabbits. 

Guinea-fowls  are  used  when  pheasants  go  out,  which  is  about  the 
latter  end  of  January,  and  are  used  till  the  end  of  May.  Their  eg^ 
are  very  good,  more  delicate  than  the  common  ones. 

I  never  use  grouse  before  the  14th  Aug.,  nor  after  the  22d  December. 

Black  cocks  and  gray  hens  about  the  same  time  as  grouse,  but  they 
are  more  uncertain. 

Ptarmigans  are  sent  j&om  Norway  about  the  middle  of  January, 
and  continue  till  March,  but  that  depends  upon  the  weather. 

Though  the  shooting  season  for  partridges  is  the  first  of  September, 
and  lasts  till  the  end  of  January,  I  never  cook  one  before  the  3d,  ex* 
cept  being  desired  to  do  so,  but  I  often  keep  some  for  three  weeks 
after  the  shooting  season  is  over. 

The  same  with  pheasants,  which  begins  from  the  1st  of  October 
tiU  the  end  of  January.  By  hanginff  them  by  the  necks  and  putting  a 
piece  of  garlic  in  the  beak  and  a  uttle  cayenne,  I  one  cold  winter 
kept  one  six  weeks  after  the  shooting  time  had  expired,  which  I  after- 
wards presented  to  a  party  of  real  gourmets,  who  said  it  was  the  best 
they  had  partaken  of  during  the  season. 

I  always  use  wild  duclu,  widgeons,  teal,  pintails,  larks,  golden 
plovers,  snipes,  woodcocks  from  the  commencement  of  November  till 
the  end  of  March,  after  which  the  flesh  becomes  rank  and  unfit  for  table. 

Young  pea-fowls  are  very  good,  and  make  a  noble  roast,  see  p.  401, 
and  are  in  season  from  January  till  June,  but  they  ore  very  uncertain. 

Plovers'  eg^,  my  favorite,  an  unparaUeled  delicacy,  come  about  the 
middle  of  March,  and  are  not  considered  good  after  the  latter  end  of 
May ;  but  when  I  can  get  them  fresh  in  June,  I  do  not  discontinue 
their  use,  because  they  are,  in  my  estimation,  worthy  of  the  |>atronage 
of  the  greatest  gourmet.  I  have  paid  for  the m,  at  the  begmning  of 
the  season,  three  shillings  and  sixpence  each  )  they  are  the  black  plover 
or  peweet*s  eggs. 


BBMARE8.  XXVn 


FISH. 

For  the  kist  few  years  there  has  been  quite  mi  alteratioD  m  the 
Masons  for  these  golden  and  Bil?ery  inhabitants  of  the  deep. 

Bxcept  the  Cod-fish,  which  come  in  September,  and  by  strictness  of 
rale  most  disappear  in  March,  the  season  for  all  other  sea-fish  becomes 
a  pnzzle ;  bat  the  method  I  follow  during  the  season  is  as  follows : 

Crimped  Gloucester  is  plentiful  in  June  and  part  of  July,  but  it  may 
be  procured  almost  all  the  year  round. 
Common  Salmon  from  March  to  July. 
Salmon  Peale  from  June  to  July. 
Spey  Trout  from  May  to  July. 

Sturgeon,  though  not  thought  much  of,  is  Tery  good  in  June. 
Turbot  are  in  season  all  the  year  round. 

John  Dories  depend  entirely  upon  chance,  but  may  be  procured  all 
the  year  round  for  the  epicure.  May  excepted. 

The  original  season  of  Tarmonth  Mackerel  is  from  the  12th  of  May 
till  the  end  of  July ;  now  we  have  Christmas  mackerel ;  then  the  west 
of  Eneland  mackerel,  which  are  good  at  the  beginning  of  April. 
Haddock  and  ^fHiittng  all  the  year  round. 
Skate  all  the  winter. 

Smelts  from  the  Medway  are  the  best,  and  are  winter  fish,  the 
Yarmouth  and  Carhsle  are  good,  but  rather  large ;  the  Dutch  are  also 
▼e^  large,  which  often  lose  in  the  estimation  of  the  epicure. 
Brill  is  like  turbot  as  to  season. 
Slips  are  similar  to  soles,  good  all  the  year  round. 
Gurnets  are  rather  a  spring  fish. 

Fbunders  and  Diamond  Plaice,  are  in  full  season  from  June  to  July. 
Bed  Mullets  vary  very  much  now,  but  the  beginniug  of  the  season 
was  formerly  the  12th  of  May;  we  had  none  this  year  except  at  a  very 
extravagant  price.     I  always  use  them  when  they  are  to  be  obtained. 
Fresh  Herrings  are  in  season  from  November  to  January. 
River  Eels  all  the  year  round. 

Lobsters  in  the  spring  and  part  of  the  summer.     Prawns  ditto. 
Crabs  are  best  in  May. 

Oysters  bqein  in  August,  but  are  not  very  good  till  September. 
Barrelled  Oysters  begin  on  the  15th  of  September,  and  last  till  the 
end  of  February. 
Barrelled  Cod,  Lent  fish,  are  best  in  winter  or  about  March. 
Sprats  come  in  about  the  8th  of  November. 

Crawfish  is  a  very  favorite  dish  of  the  greatest  epicures  of  France, 
and  also  of  a  few  of  the  English ;  the  author  regrets  that  in  fulfilment 
of  an  agreement  between  himself  and  M.  Sampayo  he  is  restricted  from 

fi?ing  the  receipt  of  Crawfish  k  la  Sampayo,  which  has  appeared  in  his 
ill  of  Fare,  No.  609.  The  reason  of  tiie  enormous  expense  of  this 
dish  is  that  two  large  bottles  of  truffes  du  Perigord,  which  do  not  cost 
less  than  four  guineas,  are  stewed  with  them  in  champagne. 

VEGETABLES  AND  PRUIT. 

The  seasons  for  these  delicacies  are  the  principal  guide  for  the 
epicure ;  but  though  either  can  be  obtained  by  artificial  means  at  a  great 
expense,  they  do  not  repay  in  fiavour  their  exorbitant  price. 


XXYUl  RC11ARK8. 


HOW  EVERYTHING  SHOULD  BE  IN  COOKING. 


All  clear  soup  must  not  be  too  strong  of  meat,  and  must  be  of  a 
light  brown,  sherry,  or  straw  colour. 

All  white  or  brown  thick  soups  must  be  rather  thinnish,  lightly 
adhering  to  the  back  of  the  spoon. 

All  purees  must  adhere  little  more  to  the  back  of  the  spoon. 

Any  Italian  paste  must  be  very  clear,  rather  strong,  and  the  colour 
of  pale  sherry. 

All  kinds  of  fish  sauce  should  be  thicker  for  boiled  fish  than  for 
broiled  or  fried. 

Brown  sauce  should  be  a  little  thinnish  and  the  colour  of  a  horse- 
chesnut. 

White  sauce  should  be  of  the  colour  of  ivory,  and  thicker  than  brown 
sauce. 

Cream,  or  Dutch  sauce,  must  be  rather  thick,  and  cannot  be  too 
white. 

Demi-glace  requires  to  be. rather  thin,  but  yet  sufficiently  reduced  to 
envelop  any  pieces  of  meat,  game,  poultry,  &c.,  with  which  it  is 
served. 

Every  description  of  fish  should  be  well  done,  but  not  over-boiled, 
broiled,  stewed,  or  fried. 

Beef  and  mutton  must  be  underdone  even  for  joints,  removes,  and 
entrees. 

Lamb  requires  to  be  more  done. 

Veal  and  pork  must  be  well  done. 

Venison  must  be  underdone,  red  in  the  middle,  and  full  of  gravy,  but 
not  raw. 

Poultry,  either  broiled,  stewed,  boiled,  or  roasted,  must  be  done 
thoroughly,  not  cutting  in  the  least  red,  but  must  be  still  full  of  gravy. 

Pheasants  and  partridges  must  be  well  done  through,  yet  full  of 
gravy. 

Grouse,  black  cocks,  gray  hens,  and  ptarmigans,  must  cut  reddish, 
with  plenty  of  gravy,  but  not  too  much  underdone. 

All  kinds  of  water-fowl  must  be  very  much  underdone,  so  that  the 
blood  and  gravy  follow  the  knife  in  carving. 

Plovers  must  be  rather  underdone,  but  done  through. 

Rabbits  and  pigeons  must  be  well  done. 

Second-course  savoury  dishes  must  be  rather  highly  seasoned,  but 
with  a  little  moderation. 

Pastry  should,  when  baked,  be  clear,  light,  and  transparent,  and  of 
a  beautiful  straw  colour ;  the  body  of  a  croustade  the  same. 

Large  pies,  timbales,  and  casseroles  of  rice  must  be  of  a  yellowish 
brown  colour. 

Jellies  require  to  be  rather  white  and  transparent  for  fruits,  and  not 
too  firm,  but  better  so  than  too  delicate. 

Orange  jellies  should  be  of  a  deep  orange  colour,  and  all  fruit  jellies 
as  near  as  possible  to  the  colour  of  the  fruit. 


RKMAftKS.  ZnX 

CreamB  should  be  very  light  and  delicate,  but  fruit  creams  must  be 
kept  of  the  colour  of  the  fruits  they  are  made  of. 

For  all  the  demi-glac6  removes  the  ice  must  be  firm,  but  not  the 
least  hard. 

All  kinds  of  souffle  or  fondu  must  be  well  done  through,  or  they 
would  be  very  indigestible,  dog  the  delicate  palate,  and  prevent  the 
degnstation  of  the  generous  claret  which  flows  so  freely  after  dinner  on 
the  table  of  the  real  epicure. 

I  recommend  sugar  in  ahnost  all  savoury  dishes,  as  it  greatly  facili- 
tates digestion  and  invigorates  the  palate,  but  always  increase  or  dimi- 
nish the  quantity  according  to  the  taste  of  your  employer. 

I  often  introduce  onions,  eschalots,  or  even  a  little  garlic  in  some  of 
my  most  delicate  dishes,  but  so  well  blended  with  other  flavours  that  I 
never  have  a  single  objection  even  by  those  who  have  a  great  dislike 
to  it. 

Horseradish  and  herbs  of  every  description  may  always  be  used  with 
discretion  to  great  advantage. 

Contrary  to  the  expressed  opinion  of  every  other  previous  publication, 
I  say  that  too  much  seasoning  is  preferable  to  too  little,  as  your 
employer  can  correct  you  by  saying  there  is  too  much  of  this  or  that, 
and  yoo  can  soon  get  it  to  his  taste ;  but  while  you  fear  over-seasoning 
you  produce  no  flavour  at  all ;  by  allowing  each  guest  to  season  for 
himself,  your  sauce  attains  a  diversity  of  flavours.  The  cook  must 
season  for  the  guest,  not  the  guest  for  the  cook. 

I  have  always  found  great  advantage  in  dressing  the  greatest  part  of 
my  entries  on  a  thin  roll  of  mashed  potatoes;*  this  has  never  been 
found  objectionable,  as  it  is  so  thin  that  it  is  imperceptible  when 
covered  with  the  sauces,  and  serves  to  prevent  any  entrees  dressed  in 
crown  from  being  upset,  before  going  on  table,  by  the  carelessness  of 
the  servant;  for  large  removes,  as  turkey  k  la  Nelson  (No.  510),  &c., 
after  forming  the  ship  (see  engraving),  egg,  bread-crumb,  and  set  in  a 
moderate  oven  to  brown,  ^x.  in  your  croustade,  and  dish  up ;  the 
potatoes  may  be  eaten,  but  not  the  croustade,  which  is  merely  an  embel« 
lishment.  borders  may  also  be  made  of  forcemeat,  as  for  ris  de  veau 
(No.  673),  but  gives  much  more  trouble  without  being  better  ;  also  of 
rice,  by  preparing  it  as  for  casserole  au  riz  (p.  260)  ;  it  may  be  used  as 
mashed  potatoes.  Make  but  few  preserves,  only  those  that  are  indis- 
pensable; you  will  have  a  continual  enjoyment  of  earlier  stock,  as 
Nature  closely  watches  our  wants  and  liberally  supplies  our  wishes. 
Tie  real  gourmet,  though  anxious  to  produce  novelty,  never  attempts 
to  over-force  the  produce  of  the  various  seasons. 

*  The  mashed  potatoes  which  are  to  be  used  for  dishing  up  as  described 
throu^out  this  work,  are  simply  prepared  as  follows : — Plain  boii  or  steam  six 
or  eignt  huge  mealy  potatoes ;  when  well  done,  peel  and  put  them  into  a  stew- 
pan  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  a  little  salt;  then  with  the  prong  of  a  fork  whisk 
them  till  quite  in  pur^ ;  then  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  milk,  work  up  with  a 
small  wooden  spcK)n  till  forming  a  paste ;  then  lay  a  small  quantity  on  a  clean 
cbth,  roll  it  to  the  circumference  of  a  fourpenny  or  sixpenny  piece,  and  form  a 
round  with  it  in  your  dish  according  to  the  size  of  the  entree ;  alter  the  propor- 
tion according  to  the  size  of  the  flanc  or  remove. 


XXX  AMATEUR   ECCEIPTS. 


BRAISED  ROAST  TURKEY,  CAPON,  OR  FOWL 

Peel  and  wash  two  onions,  one  carrot,  one  turnip,  cut  them  in  thin 
slices,  also  a  little  celery,  a  hunch  of  parsley,  two  bay-leayes,  lay  three 
sheets  of  paper  on  the  tahle,  spread  your  yegetables,  and  pour  over 
them  two  or  three  tahlespoonfuls  of  oil ;  have  your  turkey,  or  pou- 
larde,  trussed  the  same  as  for  boiling ;  cover  the  breast  with  thin 
slices  of  bacon,  and  lay  the  back  of  Uie  bird  on  the  yegetables ;  cut 
a  few  slices  of  lemon,  which  you  lay  on  the  breast  to  keep  it  white, 
tie  the  paper  round  with  string,  then  pass  the  spit  and  set  it  before 
the  fire ;  pour  plenty  of  fat  over  to  moisten  the  paper  and  prevent 
from  burning,  roast  three  hours  at  a  pretty  good  distance  from  the 
fire ;  capons  will  take  two  hours,  poulardes  one  hour  and  a  half,  fowls 
one  hour,  and  chickens  half  an  hour. 


AMATEUE  RECEIPTS. 
Bis  de  VeaUf  aux  Pistachea  a  la  Dr,  Roots, 

Take  three  fine  sweetbreads,  clean  them  well  with  milk  and  water, 
in  order  to  make  them  as  white  as  possible ;  do  them  gradually  in  a 
stewpan  with  good  white  gravy,  some  onion,  carrot,  and  celery,  with  a 
little  mace ;  then  stuff  them  well  with  pistachio  nuts  nicely  bruised ; 
put  them  **  en  papillote"  (that  is,  to  oil  or  butter  a  piece  of  paper, 
which  you  fasten  round  by  twisting  it  along  the  edge)  and  give  them 
a  nice  wholesome  colour ;  they  will  require  from  twenty  to  twenty-five 
minutes  to  bring  them  to  a  proper  state  of  excellence,  with  the  good, 
fine,  wholesome  colour  they  may  be  served  up,  with  white  endive,  or 
celery  sauce  aux  pistacfaes,  after  the  above  manner. 

Potage  froid^  ou  Salade  a  la  Dr.  Boots. 

Make  some  very  good  and  highly-flavoured  calf 's-head  soup»  with  a 
good  abundance  of  egg  and  forcemeat  balls,  and  some  sausage-meat 
introduced  therein ;  the  pieces  of  calf  *s-head  should  not  be  cut  larger 
than  an  inch  square.  When  this  soup  is  properly  prepared  and  ripe, 
pour  it  into  several  milkpans,  to  the  depth  of  about  two  inches ;  let  it 
stand  in  this  way  to  cool  and  stiffen,  for  the  next  day's  use. 

Dress  a  nice  light  salad  of  mustard  and  cress,  with  endive  and  a  slight 
sprinkle  of  well-cut  celery ;  take  this  salad  from  the  bowl  (in  which  it 
has  been  dressed),  lightly  with  a  fork,  and  form  in  a  pyramid  in  the 
centre  of  a  dish,  around  which  place  tastefdlly-omamented  slices  of 
the  cold  and  substantial  soup,  cut  into  slices  about  the  size  and  thick- 
ness of  calf's  liver  that  is  usually  served  up  with  bacon.  Garnish 
with  slices  of  hard-boiled  eggs  and  lemon.  This,  if  properly  managed, 
forms  not  only  a  pretty-loolang  spring  dish,  but  a  most  excellent  one. 


AM ATI17R   ESCKIFTS.  XXXI 


Roast  Swan  a  la  Norwich. 

Take  three  pounds  of  beef,  beat  fine  in  a  mortar. 

Put  it  into  tbe  Swan— >that  is,  when  you've  caught  her ; 

Some  pepper,  salt,  mace,  some  nutmeg,  an  onion, 

Will  heighten  the  flavour  in  Gourmand's  opinion ; 

Then  tie  it  up  tight  with  a  small  piece  of  tape. 

That  the  gravy  and  other  things  may  not  escape. 

A  meal-paste  (rather  stiff)  should  be  laid  on  the  breast. 

And  some  whited-brown  paper  should  cover  the  rest. 

Fifteen  minutes  at  least  ere  the  Swan  you  take  down, 

Pull  the  paste  off  the  bird,  that  the  breast  may  get  brown, 

THB  GRATT. 

To  a  gravy  of  beef  (good  and  strong)  I  opine 
You*ll  be  right  if  you  add  half  a  pint  of  port  wine  : 
Four  this  through  the  Swan — ^yes,  quite  through  the  belly : 
Then  serve  the  whole  up  with  some  hot  currant  jelly. 

N.  B. — ^The  Swan  must  not  be  skinned. 

AKOTHEB  RECBIPT. 

Take  two  pounds  of  rump  steak^  chop  it  fine,  season  well  with 
spice,  a  piece  of  onion,  or  escDalot»  and  butter.  Rub  the  breast  both 
inside  and  outside  with  beaten  cloves,  then  stuff  with  the  above,  taking 
care  to  sew  the  bird  up  careftdly,  and  to  tie  it  very  tightly  on  the  spit, 
so  that  the  giavy  nay  not  eseape.  Indose  the  breast  of  the  swan  in  a 
meal-paste,  after  whidi  cover  the  whole  bird  with  paper  well  greased  with 
beef  wpping.  About  a  quarter  of  an  hour  before  the  bird  is  taken  up, 
remove  the  paper  and  the  paste,  baste  well  with  butter  and  flour  till 
brown  and/roMy.  A  swan  of  fifteen  pounds,  weight  requires  about 
two  hoars  roasting  with  a  fire  not  too  fierce. 

THS  OEAVT. 

Take  the  sMets  and  a  piece  of  beef,  with  a  pint  of  port  wine,  and 
make  a  goodgravy.  Pour  some  of  this  through  the  boay  of  the  swan 
when  dished.  Some  red  currant  jelly  and  port  wine  should  be  made 
hot  and  served  up  likewise. 

N.  B. — ^The  swan  is  no/  to  be  skinned. 

Cock  a  Leekie  a  la  Wemyss. 

To  some  good  stock  made  the  previous  night  from  an  old  fowl,  or  of 
veal,  add  three  pounds  of  the  white  part  of  the  leeks,  and  let  the  whole 
boil  slowly  for  three  hours,  then  add  a  skinned  fowl  (old  or  youn^),  cut 
into  neat  pieces,  and  three  dozen  of  good  prunes.  Let  all  simmer 
together  for  one  hour  longer.  Season  with  salt  and  white  pepper, 
wA  you  will  have  good  cock  a  leekie. 

N.  B. — In  frost  the  leeks  require  less  boiling. 


XXXU  BOUQUET    DE    GIBIKR. 


BOUQUET  DE  GIBIER.  OR  SPORTING  NOSEGAY. 

CADEAU  FOR  CHRISTMAS. 

This  very  seasonable  novelty  originated  with  M.  Soyer,  ''  the  Gas- 
tronomic  Regenerator,"  of  the  Reform  Club ;  and,  like  everything 
which  emanates  from  his  inventive  brain,  is  distinguished  by  its  taste 
and  utility.  This  is,  indeed,  a  picturesque  mode  of  keeping  game,  so 
as  to  make  them  ornamental  until  they  become  useful — at  table.  The 
lovers  of  "still  life'*  pictures  cannot  but  admire  this  " Boiiquet ;*'  and 
it  is  not  unworthy  of  our  painters'  attention.  The  several  articles  of 
game,  &c.,  are  secured  between  branches  of  laurel  and  other  ever- 
greens, setoff  with  dried  and  coloured  flowers,  ''everlastings,"  &c. 
The  handsome  specimen  we  have  engraved  bears  the  following,  arranged 
the  in  order  here  denoted : 

TWO  GOLDEN  PL0VSB8. 

LETBRET. 

WILD   DUCK.  PHBA8AMT. 

WILD    BABBIT. 
OBOUSB.  WID6B0K. 

FBBNCH   PARTBIDGB.  BNOLISH    PABTBIDOB. 

WOODCOCK.  TBAL. 

TWO   SNIPES. 
TWO  LABKS. 

The  brilliancy  of  the  plovers  and  of  the  pheasant,  and  the  bright- 
ness of  the  wild-duck,  backed  by  the  sombre  green,  and  the  whole 
variegated  and  relieved  by  multicoloured  flowers,  is  really  very 
effective. 

Not  many  days  since,  M.  Soyer  presented  one  of  his  "  Bouquets  de 
Gibier*'  to  Viscount  Melbourne,  at  Brocket  Hall ;  when  his  lordship 
admired  the  novelty  exceedingly,  as  did  also  the  noble  party  on  a  visit 
at  Brocket. 

Another  "  Bouquet"  has  been  presented  by  M.  Soyer  to  a  lady  of  high 
fashion  and  beauty,  if  we  may  judge  from  the  triplet  which  accompa- 
nied the  offering : 

Madam, 

Flora  having  forsaken  her  flowers, 

I  quickly  embraced  the  sport  of  swift  Diana, 

To  dedicate  and  present  this  bouquet  to  Venus. 

Count  d'Orsay,  the  arbiter  elegantiarum  of  our  day,  on  the  "Bouquet" 
being  submittea  to  him,  admired  the  artistical  design,  and  suggested 
that  Landseer  would  appreciate  its  novelty,  adding,  "  What  a  beautiful 
trophy  it  would  make  for  a  sideboard  or  a  dining-room  !*' 

ITie  "Bouquet,''  we  augur,  will  be  popular  in  the  approaching  Christ- 
mas season ;  and  though  there  is  a  musty  old  proverb  about  "  looking 
at  a  gift-horse,"  the  above  novelty  will  surely  throw  the  old-fashion^ 
baskets  into  the  shade,  by  presenting  much  that  is  agreeable  to  the 
eye,  with  the  proximate  association  of  another  sense  of  enjoyment. 

Hhifraled  Londfm  N.'hu. 


I 

I 


,  ii— 


i 


BOUQUET   DE   GIBIER.  XXXIU 


OLIVE-BBANOH  BETWEEN  FRANCE  AND  ENGLAND. 

A  piesent  extiaordiiiary  to  the  King  and  Qaeen  of  the  French  was 
forwuded  from  London  to  Paria  on  the  2l8t  of  December  by  the  well- 
known  Gastronomic  Regenerator,  M.  Soyer,  of  the  Reform  Club,  and 
was  presented  to  their  Mai^ties  on  the  24th,  in  the  morning,  at  the 
Palace  of  the  Toileries.  Their  Majesties  were  so  delighted  with  the 
noYelty  and  elegance  of  the  composition,  that  after  a  long  examination 
the  King  ordered  it  to  be  carried  to  the  apartments  of  her  Majesty  the 
Queen  of  the  Belgians,  who  was  exceedingly  pleased  with  it,  and  after- 
wards the  whole  of  the  royal  family  was  summoned  to  see  this  bouquet ; 
the  sight  was  so  new  and  unexpected  that  it  met  with  their  unanimous 
approbation.  His  Majesty  then  observed  that  such  a  welcome  and 
graceful  present  from  a  foreign  country  had  never  before  penetrated 
Uurough  Prance  to  the  palace  of  its  kings.  Immediately  after,  by  the 
orders  of  his  Majesty,  the  sporting  nosegay  was  carried  by  two  gen- 
tlemen porters  to  the  council  of  ministers  then  sitting  at  the  Tuileries, 
and  was  admired  by  every  one.  It  is  reported  that  his  Majesty  intends 
to  have  a  similar  bouquet  carved  in  wood  for  ornamenting  the  grand 
sideboard  of  the  magnificent  banqueting  hall  of  the  palace.  To  give 
an  idea  of  the  composition  of  this  splendid  innovation,  the  following 
description  perhaps  will  be  interesting  to  the  public.  The  length  of  it 
was  about  ten  feet,  and  wide  in  proportion.  The  frame  was  richly 
covered  with  Christmas  holly,  laurels,  mistletoe,  and  evergpreen,  with  a 
great  variety  of  winter  fiowers.  There  were  twenty-two  heads  of  game, 
consisting  of  larks,,  snipes,  woodcocks,  black  peweets,  teal,  French 
and  English  partridges,  grouse,  widgeons,  wild  ducks,  black  cocks, 
pheasants,  a  leyeret,  a  haxe,  and  golden  plovers ;  the  interstices  were 
lightly  filled  with  wheat  and  oats,  the  whole  ornamented  with  tri- 
colonred  ribands  and  small  flags  at  the  top — and  to  give  a  still  more 
pleasing  effect,  fancy  birds  of  beautiful  plumage,  so  abundant  in 
Ei^and,  were  spread  in  every  part  of  this  magnificent  nos^y. 

The  following  letter  from  his  Majesty  the  King  of  the  French,  ac- 
companied with  a  beautiful  pin  forming  a  bouquet  of  diamonds  and 
pearls,  was  sent  by  his  Majesty's  orders  to  the  French  Ambassador, 
and  forwarded  to  Monsieur  Soyer  at  the  Reform  Club. 

Cabinet  du  Rot,  Ckdteau  des  Tuileries ;  1847. 

MoNSIEtJB, 

Le  Roi  a  re^u  votre  ouvrage  sur  Tart  culinaire,  et  le  groupe 
de  Gibier  dont  tous  lui  avez  fait  hommage. 

Je  suis  charge.  Monsieur,  de  vous  transmettre  les  remercie- 
ments  de  sa  Majesty  pour  cette  double  attention,  et  d'y  joindre  comme 
ttooignage  de  sa  satisfaction,  le  bijou  que  je  m'empresse  de  vous 
remettre. 

Reoeves  je  vous  prie,  Monsieur,  mes  plus  parfaites  saluta- 
tions, 

Le  S^retaire  du  Cabinet, 

CAMILLE  FAIN. 
Monsieur  Alexis  Soyer.  {Clohe) 

c 


NUMBER  OF  STEWPANS  AND  OTHER  KITCHEN  UTENSILS 


KKaUIEBD  IN  TB»  KITCHBN8  OP  WHICH  I  HAVB  OlVBK  PLANS,  COMMKNCOfO 
WITH  THE  COMPLBTB  BATTBRIB  DB  CUI8INB  OP  THE  KBPOEM  CLUB. 


Utcwili. 


Stewpant,  the  sint  fluctuating  from  six  gallons 

to  half  a  pint 
Stock-pott,  Tarying  from  twelva  gallons  to  two 
Turbot  kettlei,  one  full  tiie,  and  another  two 

tizet  smaller 
Long  Flah-ketUca,  two  large  and  two  middling 

•iaed  ones 

Braising-pant,  two  large  and  twomiddling-tlaed 
Pretenring'pans  (copper),  one  large  round  hot 

toroed  and  one  large  flat  bottomed 
Egg  bowls,  one  large  and  one  middling- siied 
Baba  and  sponge-cake  moulds  . 
Large  round  copper  pie-dlshcs  for  servants 
Thick  flat  braising-pans  with  hermetic  rovers 
Saut^aas,  twenty  deep,  with  thick  bottoms 

and  ten  others     . 
Bidn>marie-pan8,  varying  from  two  gallons  to 

a  pint 
Pie-moulds  fur  raised  pies 
Jelly  and  charlotte  moulds 
Small  bordure  for  aspic  jelHc-* 
Freeaing-pots,  with  accessories 
Baking-sheets  of  various  siaes 
Gridirons        . 
Salamanders 
Spoon  drainers 
Spits  of    various  siacs,  Indu'Ung  two  with 
cradlea    • 

Dripping-pans  . 

Steam  copper  cases  for  puddings  and  potatoes 

Round  copper  fruit'bowls  with  handles 

Sugar-pans     .... 

Soup  ladles  (small  and  cheap  utensils) 

Copper  kitchen  spoons,  six  of  which  are  co- 
lander spoons 

Wire  baskeu  for  frying 

Wire  sieves    .  •  • 

Hair  sieves     .  • 

Omelette- pans  . 

Small  Jelly  and  driole  moulds 

Tarteleite-pans  .  • 

Tammies         .  .  • 

Jelly  bags  • 

Wooden  spoons 

Paste  brushes  •  • 

Scissors  • 

i^itchen  knives 

Boxes  of  cutters  for  vegetables  and  pastry 

Trivets,  four  common,  and  two  for  gM  stoves 

Meat  saws,  four  large  and  two  small    . 

Cutlet  bats     .... 

Meat  choppers,  large 

Steak-tongs,  two  lai^  and  two  small  pain 

Meat-hooks     .... 

Rolllng-plns 

Kitchen  basins 

Small  pie-dishes  for  fruit  and  meat 

Kitchen  table-cloths    • 

Rubbers  •  •  .  . 

Fish  napkins 

Pudding-eiotha 

Round  towels  • 


O    9  X 


80 

8 

S 


30 

36 
6 
S4 

6 


1 


6 


2  5  Js 
5^^ 


98 

4 


fl 

S 

S 
2 
8 
8 
6 

18 

18 

4 

18 

4 

8 

18 
8 
1 

fl 

8 
I 
8 
I 
8 


eg 


18 


1  small 

1  rather 

larger 


6,  1  hold- 
ing a  gall. 


1  rather 
wide. 


18 

18 

36 

18 

6 

8 

6 

8 

8 

8 

6 

8 

36 

18 

86 

18 

6 

4 

4 

a 

84 

18 

10 

4 

8  prs. 
18 

1 
6 

4 

4 

6 

8 

8 

3 

4 

8 

8 

1 

4  prs. 
84 

8 
18 

8 

1 

36 

84 

84 

12 

84 

IS 

8 

8 

84 

18 

18 

18 

18 

S 

8 
8 
4 
1 
1 
8 
1 
1  small 
1 

8 

1 

r 
1 

4 

8 

8 
1 
1 

r 

18 
18 

8 

1 

8 

8 

1 

8 

8 

8 
8, 1  small 

1 

1 
1  large 

fl 

1 
18 

6 

8 

4 

6 

4 

4 


6  black 
saucepaaa 


1 

8 
8 


do. 


1  flat 
bottomed 


8 
8 


8 
1 

1 
1 


4 
I 
1 
1 


8 
1 

1 
4 
1 
6 
H 
8 
8 
8 
8 
8 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS, 


OK  ABMLBTIATSD  8UMMAB.Y,  RBnRRINO  (fBOM  PAGB  TO  rAGX)  TO  TBI 


VARIOUS  SBB.IB9  OF  DI8HKS.  BTC. 


(Ar  Omoial  Conttntt  set  the  end  efthe  Fotume.) 


SAUCES. 


Ponndation  sauces 
Thin  sauces 


Saitces,  mth  GAiuriTUBJBS  of  Vegetables,  or  garnishing  . 


PAOB 

1  —  9 

9— U 

14—33 

34—48 


Affendix  to  the  Sauces. 

Composed  of  forcemeat  of  real,  rabbits,  fowl,  game,  whitings,  cod-liver, 
panada^  veal-stuffing,  boiled  rice,  oranched  macaroni,  cro- 
quettes of  potatoes,  glaze 

Fotages^  or  soups 


48—53 
53—88 


nSH— POISSON. 


Method  of  deaning  salt-water 
fish  ....      90 


92 


Method  of  cleaning  fresh-water 
fish 93—94 


Fish  Dressed. 


Tuxbot 
Brill    . 
JohuDoiy   . 
Salmon,  or  saumon 
Cod-fish,  or  cabillaud 
Bed  mullets 
Whitings,  or  merlans 
Mackerel,  or  maquereaux 
Haddocks,  or  merluches 


95—101 
101—104 
104—107 
107—111 
119-rl22 
122—124 
125—126 
126—128 
128—130 


Gurnets       .        • 
Herrings,  or  harengs    . 
Skate,  or  raie 
Smelts,  or  ^perhms 
Flounders,  or  carrelets 
Plaice,  or  plie      .    •    . 
White-bait  . 
Sturgeons,  or  esturgeons 
Shell-fish     . 


130—132 
131 
133 
134 
135 
135 
136 
136 

137—139 


Fbesh-Wateb  Fish. 


Pike,  or  brochets 
Carp   . 

Tench,  or  tanche  . 
Perch 


139—143 

143—144 

144—145 

.     146 


Trout,  or  tmite    . 
Eels,  or  anguilles 
Lampreys    .. 
Crawfish,  or  ^r^yisses . 


147—148 

148—149 

.  149 

.  149 


XXXVl 


CONTENTS. 


HORS-D'(EXJVRES, 
OB  Dishes  to  bb  HAin>BD  boubb  thb  Table.  Composed  of— 


Fetits  Yol-au-vents  andjpetites       pagb 
bonch^,  made  of  beef-mar- 
row, mackerel,  skate,  liver, 
oysters^  lobsters,  fowls,  and 
game       .        .        .        .    161 — 155 

Petits  p&t^  of  oysters,  lob- 
sters, and  shrimps     .        .  156 


Bissoles  of  oysters,  lobsters, 
shrimps,  mackerel,  game, 
and  fowls 
Cronstfldes  of  butter 
Aignillettes  of  sweetbread 


PAGE 

156—159 
.  160 
.     161 


Escalops  of  oysters,  lobsters, 
fillets  of  soles,  and  fowls  .    161 — 163 


ILEMOYES.    FiBST  Ck)UBSB. 


Beef,  or  bceuf 

Ox  tongue,  or  langue  de  boeuf 

Veal,  or  veau 

Calf  s  head,  or  t6te  de  yeau 

Mutton,  or  mouton 

Lamb,  or  agneau . 

Pork        ... 

Turkey,  or  dinde . 


164—176 
177 
177—184 
184—188 
189—196 
196—201 
202—204 
205—206 


Capon,  or  poularde 
Fowls,  or  poulets 
Goose,  or  oie. 
Ducklings,  or  cannetons 
Venison,  or  venaison    . 
Grouse 
Black  cocks 
Hare,  or  ii^vre     . 


20S— 220 

215—220 

220—921 

.  221 

221—226 

.  228 

.  229 

«  229 


FLANCS.    Composed  of— 


Pillets  of  beef,  tongue^  and 
Wesphalia  hams 

Loin,  knuckle,  neck  of  veal, 
and  calf  s  head 

Neck  and  loin  of  mutton 

Saddle,  shoulder,  and  neck  of 
lamb        .... 


230—238 

234—237 
238—240 

240—243 


Chicken  and  duckling  . 

Pheasant,  grouse,  tod  ptotridge 

Leverets  imd  rabbits    . 

Pat6  chaud,  or  hot  pie  . 

Vol-au-vents  and  casserole  of 
rice,  do,  rabbits,  lamb's  and 
calf  stail,lamb'sand  sheep's 
trotters 


244—248 
249-253 
254—256 
256-260 


260—264 


Beef,  or  bceuf 
Veal,  or  yeau 
Mutton,  or  mouton 


Turkey,  or  dinde  . 
Poulet,  or  poularde 


ENTREES,  oB  Made  Dishes. 


266—278 
279—294 
294—307 


Lamb,  or  agneau  . 
Pork,  or  poro-frais 
Venison,  or  venaison 


ENTEEES  OF  POULTRY, 


QUENELLES,  ob  Fobcemeat.    Composed  of— 

Fillets  of  ducklings 


Quenelles  of  fowls        .        .    352—354 
Boudins,  croquettes,  and  tis* 
solettes 365—367 


308—321 
32^—325 
326—329 


.    329—331      Fowls,  or  volaille .        .        .    340 347 

..  332—340      Spring  chickens,  or  poulets  .    348 — 351 


358—359 


CONTRNTS. 


XXXVU 


ENTKEES  OF  6A3£E. 


Bare,  or  li^rre 
Rablnts,  or  lApins 
Flieasaat,  or  faisan 
GiOQae 
PintndgeSy 


PA6B 

860— 36« 
363—366 
367—370 
371—373 
874r-377 


Wdd  docks,  or  caiiards  saayages  378 — 379 


Teal,  or  ceroelles . 

Woodcocks,  or  b^casses 

Ployen,  or  pkviers      . 

QuaOs,  or  cailles  . 

Pigeons 

Larksy  or  maaviettes    . 


PAGE 

380—381 
382—385 
380—387 
388—389 
389—390 
891—393 


AOASTS  FOR  Second  Cqjjbse. 


Toikey;  or  dinde  ' 
C^n,  pallet,  and  chicken 
Goose,  or  oie 
DnckJuig^  or  caimeion  . 
Woodcocks,  or  b^casses 
Gmnea^fowt  or  poole  d'Inde 
Pea-fovi^  or  |>aon ' 
Pigeons 

wa3s,  or  cailles  .' 
Pheasants,  or  fiusana 
Grouse 
Ptarmigan  ^ 


393—397 
398—399 
.  400 
.  400 
.  401 
.  401 
.  401 
.  402 
.  402 
.  403 
.  403 
.  404 


J  hens 


Black  cocks  and 
Partridge  or  pe: 
Dun  bira 
Wild  dock,  or  canard  sauvage 
Teal,  or  cercelles  . 
Plovers,  or  pluviers 
Woodcock,  or  b^casse  . 
Larks,  or  manviettes    . 
Snipes,  or  b^cassines    . 
Hares,  or  lierres  . 
Leverets,  or  levrauts    . 
Babbits,  or  lapins 


.  405 
.  405 
.  406 
405—406 
406—407 
.  407 
.  408 
.  408 
.  409 
.  409 
,  409 
.  409 


SAYOUBY  DISHES  tok  Second  Coubse.    Composed  of— 


Boar's  head,  libs  and  fillets  of 
beef^  ox  tongoe,  cold  ham .    410 — 419 

liQet  and  loin  of  veal,  galan- 
tine, tmd  pat^  of  veal  and 
ham,  coteiettes  of  veal,  and 
sveetbread 

Gotelettea,  tnrban,  and  car- 
bonate of  mnttcm     . 

Balottiss  andcoidettes  of  kmb 

Galantine  and  ]p&t6  of  turkey, 
capon  (orponlarde)  .- 

Ghaad-froid  of  poularde  (or 
capon),  filleta  of  do.,  dnck- 
linjj  en  aspic,  salad  of  fowl, 
aspic  moold  .    434—438 


420—424 

425 
426--427 

42a-43S 


Galantine,  ^ktia,  fillet,  and 
chaud-froid  of  pheasant    . 

Galantine  and  salad  of  grouse 

Gahintine  and  pat^  of  par- 
tridges 

Woodcocks  and  p&t^  froid  of 
larks  (cold) 

Lobster  sala^  mayonnaises  of 
lobster,  lobster  en  aspic  an 
gratm      .... 

Grabs, '  oysters  en  coqnilles, 
salad  of  fillet  of  soles,  trout 
and  salmon  pickled,  galan- 
tine of  eeb 


439—440 
441 

442—443 

444 

445-446 


447-449 


YEGETABLES  fo&  Second  Coubse. 


Asparafi^,  sea  kale,  celery, 
salainr,  cncnmbers,  and  ve- 
getable marrow  . 

Jmaalem  artichokes^  canli- 
iloweia,  brocoli 

Artichokes,  peas,  Freindibeans 
Bmssels  spronts 

^gnadi,  endive,  sorrel,  lettnoes  463—465 

Windsor  beans,  white  haricotdo.  466—467 


450—454 
455—456 
467—462 


.     469 
470-474 


Tomatas  and  mushrooms       •        •     468 
Carrots,  turnips,  onions,  spring 

vegetables 
Potatoes,  lentils,  trufiles 
Omelettes  fines  herbes,  ham, 

truffles,  mushrooms,  olives, 

jardini^,  oysters,  fillets  of 

soles,    muscles,    lobsters, 

sugari  preserves,-  and  rum    474r— 477 


xxxvm 


CONTENTS.  ' 


ENTIL£METS,  o%  Swexts. 


Observations  on  pastiy,  dif- 
ferent sorts  of  paste,  pnff 
Saste,  do.  with  oeef  snet, 
0.  half  pnff,  confectioner's 
paste,  almond  paste,  and 
ffum  paste 

Vol-au-vents  of  peaches,  apri- 
cots, greengages,  cherries, 
pears,  apples,  orangesj  and 
gateau  nulle-f eaille   . 

Tnrban  ^  la  cr^me,  wells  of 
fruit,  Pthiviers  cakes . 

Tonrtes,  tartelettes,  and  fan- 
chonettes  k  la  vanille 

Dauphines,  tartelettes,  mirli- 
tons,  and  petits  vol-au-vents 

Gateaux  fourr6s  with  preserves 

Turban  de  Gond^,  and  apricot 
cakes        .... 

Petites  bouchdes,  eventail  with 
cherries,  petits  gateauxroyals 

A  flan  of  pufT  paste,  do.  of 
apples,  do.  of  pears,  do. 
creme  pralin6e . 

Pate  k  choux,  petits  choux 
with  cream,  almond,  petits 
pains  cremi^re  . 

Madeline  with  port  wine,  gi- 
noise,  darioles  . 


PAGE 


478—483 


484—486 

487-488 

489-493 

494—495 
497—499 


.     500 
.     501 

502—503 

504—505 
506—507 


BiscateDes,  cakes  k  Tlndienne 

gaui&es  anxpistaches,  Alle- 

mande,  vanilla,  red  noogat 
Snudl  cups  of  nougat,  nougat 

with  apricots,  crisp  cfaea- 

nuts,  amandffs  croqoantes, 

meringues 
Turban  of  meringues    .    ^  . 
Meringue  iced,  do.  aux  pis- 

taches,  mushrooms  en  suiprise 
Biscuits    manqu^s   with   al- 
monds, do.  with  rum 
Calfs  foot  jelly,  and  various 

other  jeUies 
Creams,  various   .        . 
Bavaroises,  various 
Charlottes,  chartreuses,  sa^- 

doises,  bread  and  croquettes 

of  apples 
Apples,  pears,  and  apricots* 

with  nee  .... 
Pommes  meringues,  miroton, 

fritters  of  apples,  peaches 

and  apricots     . 
Croquettes  of  rice,  cream  of 

rice,  macaroni,  vermicelli, 

and  cream  Med 
Beignets  soufB^,  frangipane 
Omelette    C^lestine,    panne- 

quets  with  preserve  . 


Pi.OS 


508—510 


510-512 
.     513 

.     515 

516—524 
524-523 
529—531 


532—536 
537—538 


539—543 


543 
544 

545 


EEMOVES,  Second  Couesb 548—674 

SOXJTTLES,  POB  Removes 575—683 


Appendix,  the  Second. 


Aspic 

Mayonnaise  k  la  gel^,  do. 
mies  herbes,  do.  ravigote 
verte,  do.  ordinaire,  do. 
Provenpale       .        .        . 

Montpellier  butter,  forcemeat 
for  raised  pie,  and  of  liver 
for  do.  sponge  cake,  savoy 
cake  in  momd,  biscuits,  to 
darifj  isinglass 

Iceing,  and  dliooolate  iceing, 
sugar  in  grain,  and  to  colour 
it     .        .  .        . 


585 


586—589 


591—592 


593 


Vanilla  and  lemon  sugar,  to 
clarify  and  boil  sugar,  sugar 
thread      .        .        .'        . 

Iced  cream  of  vanilla,  coffee, 
chocolate,  pine  apple,  lemon, 
•orange,  apricot,  and  straw- 
berry        

Marmalade  of  apples^  apricot, 
quince,  chemes,  strawber- 
Jnes,  and  raspbeiries . 

Jelly  of  apples,  quince,  cur- 
rant ana  raspberries,  and  to 
preserve  tomatas 


694-596 


527—599 


600—602 


602—604 


-CONTENTS. 


xxxuc 


MY  TABLE  AT  HOME. 


Soaps 

Fish    .        .        . 

Fresh-wnter  fish  . 

Simple  hois-d'oeuyres 

BemoTes  simplified 

Sauces 

Eoonomical  made  dish^ 


PAOB 

637-  649 
652—656 
656—660 
660—662 
.  663 
664—672 
673—675 
676—687 


PAOK 


Economical  made  dishes  from 

ponltry    ....  688—691 

Game 692—695 

Meat  pies  aad  puddings        .  696 


Second  Coubse  . 

Jellies  of  liqueurs  or  spirits 

Bohemian  jelly  cream   . 


698—701 

.     702 

703—710 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


Dedication  to  H.  R.  H.  the  Duke 

of  Cambridge            .        .        .  iii 
List  of  diatingnwhiHl  Persona^ 

who  hare  patronized  the  woSl  .  y 

Preface vii 

Ptefaoe  to  the  Pourth  Edition  ix 
Description  of  the  composition  of 

this  work  ad 

Soyer's  new  mode  of  earring  ziv 

Directions  for  carving .        .        .  xv 

How  to  carye  a  haunch  of  venison  xviii 

Saddleback  of  venison  xix 

Carving  of  poultry       .         .        .  xx 

Soyer's  Tendon  »sparator    .  xxi 

Directions  for  lardmg                   .  xxv 

Meat  and  poultry  xxvi 

Pish xxvii 

YegetabJes  and  fruit    .        .        .  ib. 
Howeveiything'should  be  in  cooking  xxviii 

Braised  roast  turkey,  capon,  or  fowl  xxx 
Amatevb  Bsceipts — ^Kis  deVeau 

anxPistachesl^laDr.Roots  .  ib. 

Potage  froid,  ou  Salade  h  la  Dr. 

Boots  ib. 

Boast  Swan  k  la  Norwich  xxxi 

Cock  a  Leekie  h  la  Wemyss     .  ib. 
Bouquet  de  Gibier^  or  Sporting 

Nosegay         ....  xxxii 


OUve  Branch  between  Prance  and 
England  ....   xxxiii 

Number  of  stewpans  and  other 
utensils  required       .        .        .  xxxiv 


Service  pagodatiaue 

Table  ot  the  wealthy  and  bill  of 

fore  for  ten  ]>eno^      .        . 
Diner  Lucullusian  k  la  Sampayo 
Bill  of  fare  for  the  same  . 
Dialo^e  cnlinaire    . 
Descnption  of  the  kitchen  of  the 

Reform  Club,  and  plan  . 
Beference  to  the  plan 
Kitchen  of  the  Beform  Club 
My  kitchen  at  home 
The  bachelor's  kitchen  and  cot 

tage  kitchen 
Dinner  party  at  home 
Beceipts 

Coffee 

Monster  bOl  of  fare . 
Paffodatique  entr^  dish  . 
Celestial  and  terrestrial  cream  of 

Great  Britain 
General  table  of  contents  1  .j.  +i  ^  ^„  j  ^f 
MadarneWs biography  [**he  ^k 
Criticisms  of  the  press      J 


606 

607 
608 
609 
611 

613 

614 

615—629 

630—^32 

633 
634 
637—710 
711 
712 
713 

719 


CONTEXTS. 


ENGRAVINGS. 

PAGE 

Portraits  of  the  Author  .......        1 

Emblematical  woodcat  .  .  .  .  .  .  iv 

A  Turkey,  prepared  according  to  M.  Beyer's  new  plan  ,  .  .        xvi 

Carving  a  haunch  of  venison  .  .  .  .  ...  xviii 

Carving  of  poultry         .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .      xxl 

The  Tendon  Separator  .....  xxiii 

Fowl — one  half  with  the  flesh  on«  and  the  other  half  dissected  ^  xxiv 

Mutton,  pork,  and  lamb  cutlets .  .  ....;.  .  .     294 

Table  of  the  wealthy  .......  607 

612 
614 
610  to  629 
632 
634 
685 
644 
677 


Kitchen  of  the  Eeform  Club      .  .  ... 

Ground'plan  of  ditto  .  « 

Eifteen  engravings  representing  the  fitting-up  of  the  kitchen  of  the  wealthy 

Ground  plan  of  mv  kitchen  at  home  .... 

The  bachelor's  and  the  cottage  kitchen  .  .        .    .    .        , 

My  table  si,  home   .  .  .  .  ... 

Saddle-back  of  mutton  .  .  .  ... 

A  new  muliton  cutlet  .  .  .  .  •       •    . 

Pagodatique  entree  dish  .  .  k        .    .    .        .  ,  .     714 

Dindonneau  k  la  Nelson,  Poularde  en  diad^me,  Gajantine  a  la  voli^re,  Salade 
de  grouse  k  la  Soyer,  Mayonnaise  de  homard,  Croustades  of  bread  for 
the  centre  of  removes,  Croustade  for  filet.de  bceuf,  Croustades  for 
poularde  en  diad^me,  Croustades  for  turkey  ii.k  Nelson,  Gateau  Britan- 
nique,  CrBme  Cerito  sultane  sylphe  k  la  fille  de  Torage,  Six  jelly  moulds, . 
and  the  Atelettes  for  Elancs,  Kemoves,  &c.     ....  •  .    720 

Portrait  of  Madame  Sbyer,  Biography  at  the  end  of  the  book. 


THB 


GASTRONOMIC   REGENERATOR 


SAUCES. 


The  first  eight  sauces  are  what  we  term  Foundation 
sauces;  but  to  facilitate  and  simplify  the  making  of  all 
kinds  of  made  dishes,  I  have  throughout  this  work  princi- 
pally referred  to  the  Brown  Sauce  (No.  1),  and  the  White 
Sauce  (No.  7),  which  are  the  two  sauces  I  daily  and  prin- 
cipally use.  The  others  are  of  course  very  good,  and  some- 
times necessary ;  but  being  more  compUcated,  I  would  re- 
commend that  they  be  left  to  culinary  artists,  who  can  easily 
surmount  this  difScnlty.  The  two  above-mentioned  sauces 
require  nothing  but  a  Httle  care  and  attention ;  if  well  made, 
yon  will  have  little  trouble  with  the  smaller  sauces ;  for  the 
foundation  sauces  being  well  made,  the  smaller  ones  require 
little  more  than  the  ingredients  directed  for  them,  to  give 
them  their  proper  flavour;  but  if  badly  made,  it  would 
injure  the  whole  dinner.  The  above-named  sauces  will  keep 
four  or  five  days  in  summer,  and  a  week  in  winter,  by 
adding  a  quart  of  Ught  broth,  and  boiling  them  up  every 
day  in  summer,  and  every  other  day  in  winter. 

The  following  proportions  in  the  foundation  sauces  are 
sufficient  for  a  large  dinner ;  but  of  course  where  so  much 
IS  not  required,  a  quarter,  or  even  a  smaller  quantity  can 
be  made. 


i' 


2  SAUCES. 

The  colour  of  the  brown  sauce  ought  to  be  as  near  as 
possible  to  that  of  the  horse-chesnut,  whilst  the  white  sauce 
should  be  of  the  colour  of  rich  cream.     If  possible,  nothing 
but  the  best  flour  should  ever  be  used  for  a  roux,  which  is 
the  French  culmary  term  for  thickening ;  for  inferior  or  new 
flour  loses  its  strength  by  boiling,  and  your  sauce  would 
become  thin  and  watery:   but  if  such  be  the  case,  you 
should  make  more  roux,  to  obviate  this  difficulty,  which 
must  be  well  mixed  with  a  little  cold  stock,  poured  into  the 
sauce,  and  all  boiled  together  till  you  have  obtained  the 
consistency  directed. 

No.  1.  Broum  SoMce. 

Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  in  a  large  thick>bot- 
tomed  stewpan,  rub  it  all  over  the  bottom,  then  peel  and 
cut  ten  large  onions  in  halves,  with  which  cover  the  bottom ; 
then  take  two  pounds  of  lean  ham  cut  into  slices,  which 
lay  over  the  onions ;  having  ready  cut  in  large  slices  twenty 
pounds  of  leg  of  beef  and  veal,  put  it  over  the  ham,  and 
place  the  stewpan  over  a  sharp  fire ;  let  it  remain  a  quarter 
of  an  hour,  then  with  a  large  wooden  spoon  move  the  whole 
mass  round,  but  keeping  the  onions  still  at  the  bottom. 
Keeping  it  over  the  fire,  and  stirring  it  occasionally,  until  the 
bottom  is  covered  with  a  Ught  brown  glaze,  then  prick  the 
meat  with  a  fork,  take  off  the  stewpan,  and  put  some  ashes 
upon  the  fire,  to  deaden  its  heat;  place  the  stewpan  again  over 
it,  and  let  it  stand  half  an  hour  longer,  stirring  it  twice  during 
that  time ;  the  bottom  will  then  be  covered  with  a  thick  but 
clear  brown  glaze ;  fill  it  up  with  fourteen  quarts  of  water 
or  sixteen  of  light  stock  (No.  133),  then  add  three  turnips, 
two  carrots,  four  blades  of  mace,  and  a  bunch  of  ten  sprigs 
of  parsley,  six  sprigs  of  thyme,  and  four  bay-leaves ;  leave 
it  over  the  fire  until  it  boils,  then  place  it  on  the  comer, 
add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  salt ;  skim  off  all  the  fat,  and 


SAUCES. 


let  it  smimer  for  two  hours,  adding  two  quarts  of  cold 
water  by  degrees,  to  clarify  it  and  keep  it  to  its  original 
quantity ;  then  skim  it  again,  and  pass  the  stock  through 
a  fine  cloth  into  a  basin,  (by  filling  up  the  stewpan  again 
with  water  you  will  have  then  an  excellent  second  stock — ^for 
filling  up  stocks  for  soups  or  sauces,  this  remark  also  applies 
to  every  description  of  stocks ;)  if  by  any  misfortune  the 
stock  should  become  thick,  clarify  it  as  directed  (No.  134). 
Then  proceed  as  follows :  put  one  pound  of  butter  into  a 
deep  stewpan,  (which  is  the  best  for  this  purpose,)  place  it 
over  the  fire,  stirring  it  until  it  melts ;  then  stir  in  a  pound 
and  a  half  of  best  flour,  mix  it  well,  and  keep  stirring  it  over 
the  fire  until  it  assumes  a  brownish  tinge ;  then  take  it  from 
the  fire,  and  keep  stirring  the  roux  until  partly  cold,  then 
pour  in  the  stock  quickly,  still  stirring  it ;  place  it  over  a 
sharp  fire,  stirring  it  untU  it  boils,  then  place  it  at  the  comer  of 
the  stove,  and  let  it  simmer  an  hour  and  a  half;  by  keeping 
it  skinuned,  you  will  take  ofiT  all  the  butter,  and  the  sauce 
wiD  become  clear  and  transparent ;  place  it  again  over  a 
sharp  fire,  and  keep  it  stirred  until  it  adheres  to  the  back 
of  the  spoon,  when  pass  it  through  a  tammie  into  a  basin, 
stirring  it  round  occasionally  until  cold,  and  use  it  where 
required.  Should  the  colomr  of  the  sauce  be  too  pale,  add 
a  few  spoonfuls  of  brown  gravy  (No.  1 35). 

No.  2.  E^agnole  Sauce, 

Put  half  a  pound  of  butter  mto  a  large  thick-bottomed 
stewpan,  and  cover  the  bottom  with  good  slices  of  ham 
about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness ;  then  cut  up  two 
legs  of  veal  into  as  large  slices  as  possible,  (having  twenty 
pounds  of  meat,)  but  reserving  the  nut,  or  noix,  for  flanks 
or  entrees,  (see  No.  565 ;)  put  the  meat  without  any  of  the 
hone  into  the  stewpan,  which  set  upon  a  moderate  fiire  for 
twenty  minutes,  then  shake  it  round,  to  prevent  the  ham 


4  SAUCES. 

sticking  to  the  bottom ;  cover  it  over  quite  close,  then  put  a 
few  ashes  upon  the  fire;  put  the  stewpan  again  over  it, 
shaking  it  round  occasionally,  and  once  or  twice  turning 
the  whole  mass  round  together  with  a  wooden  spoon  until 
the  bottom  is  covered  with  a  light  glaze ;  prick  the  meat 
with  a  fork  to  let  out  the  gravy,  and  vnth  it  remove  the 
bottom  pieces  to  the  top ;  replace  it  upon  the  fire,  shaking 
it  round  occasionally  until  each  piece  of  meat  be  covered 
with  a  clear  brown  glaze ;  then  fill  up  the  stewpan  with 
sixteen  quarts  of  Ught  stock  (No.  133) ;  add  six  onions  (in 
one  of  which  you  have  stuck  six  cloves),  twelve  peppercorns, 
two  blades  of  mace,  two  carrots,  a  good  bunch  of  parsley,  six 
sprigs  of  thyme,  and  four  bay-leaves ;  when  it  boils  place  it 
on  the  comer  of  the  stove,  skim  it,  and  add  two  olmces 
of  salt;  let  it  boil  rather  quickly,  adding  two  quarts  of 
water  by  degrees,  which  will  facihtate  the  abstraction  of  all 
the  fat  in  skimming ;  boil  it  two  hours,  then  pass  the  stock 
through  a  fine  cloth  into  a  basin.  Make  a  roux,  and  ter- 
minate your  sauce  as  described  in  the  last. 

No.  3.  Brown  Sauce  from  all  aorta  of  meat 

Knowing  by  experience  the  diflSculty  of  getting  meat  for 
stock  in  the  country,  especially  veal,  I  will,  for  the  conveni- 
ence of  families,  give  a  receipt  for  brown  sauce,  to  be  made 
fix)m  rabbits,  poultry,  trimmings  of  mutton,  beef,  pork,  or 
even  venison ;  (but  to  every  ten  pounds  of  meat  required, 
use  twelve,  as  it  is  not  so  succulent  as  beef  or  veal.)  In 
Scotland  I  was  compelled  to  use  venison  even  for  beef-iesi ; 
this  may  appear  rather  strange,  but  it  is  no  less  true ;  for 
although  the  wealth  of  my  employer  would  have  enabled  me 
to  have  anything  required  for  my  use,  money  could  not 
purchase  it  at  the  time  required.  The  mock  beef-tea  had  of 
course  a  wild  fiavour,  but  it  was  still  very  palatable.  Butter 
the  bottom  of  a  thick  stewpan,  upon  which  lay  ten  large 


SAUCES.  6 

onions  peeled  and  cut  in  halves,  then  put  in  what  trimmings 
of  meat  or  poultry  you  may  have,  proceed  exactly  with  it  as 
directed  for  brown  sauce  (No.  1),  but  using  stock  or  water 
in  proportion  to  the  quantity  of  meat ;  the  same  precaution 
must  be  used  likewise  with  the  quantity  of  roux  used  for 
thickening. 

No.  4.  For  thickening  Brown  Sauce  noithout  making  a  roux. 

Make  your  stock  as  directed  in  either  of  the  three  last 
receipts^  (according  to  circumstances ;)  if  sixteen  quarts,  bake 
two  pounds  of  the  best  flour  in  a  moderate  oven,  without 
letting  it  brown ;  sift  it,  and  when  quite  cold  mix  it  into  a 
thin  paste  with  two  quarts  of  cold  stock ;  mix  it  by  degrees, 
getting  it  as  smooth  as  possible ;  have  the  stock  for  your 
sauce  boiling  in  a  stewpanupon  the  fire,  into  which  pour  in 
the  paste,  keeping  it  stirred  until  it  boils ;  then  set  it  at  the 
comer  of  the  stove ;  let  it  sinmier  an  hour  and  a  half;  skim 
it  well,  then  place  it  upon  a  brisk  fire,  and  add  a  few  chopped 
mushrooms,  boil  it  very  quickly,  keeping  it  stirred  until  it 
adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon ;  then  pass  it  through  a 
tanunie  as  before,  and  use  it  where  required. 

No.  6.   Veloute, 

This  sauce  has  stood  for  a  century  as  a  foundation  sauce 
in  the  highest  class  of  cookery,  and  may  be  admired  for  its 
utility,  and  the  delicacy  of  its  flavour ;  but  I  have  avoided 
referring  to  it  in  ahnost  every  receipt  on  account  of  the 
expense  attached  to  it  and  its  tedious  fabrication.  Ac- 
cording to  the  old  system,  it  requires  two  days  to  com- 
plete it ;  one  for  the  simmering  of  the  stock,  and  the  other 
for  the  sauce.  I  have  here,  however,  succeeded  in  simpli- 
fying i**  ^y  which  the  aroma  of  its  component  parts  are 
better  preserved  than  when  subject  to  so  long  boiling. 

Put  six  tablespoonfuls  of  oil  in  a  large  thick-bottomed 


6  SAUCES. 

stewpan,  rub  it  over  the  bottom,  then  lay  in  twenty  pounds 
of  veal  in  large  shoes,  (from  knuckles  or  the  under  part 
of  legs,)  an  old  fowl,  two  carrots,  six  onions,  (in  one  of 
which  you  have  stuck  six  cloves,)  two  blades  of  mace,  four 
pounds  of  good  ham,  and  a  bunch  of  parsley,  six  sprigs  of 
thyme,  and  four  bay-leaves ;  pour  in  a  pint  of  water,  and 
place  the  stewpan  upon  a  sharp  fire ;  when  it  begms  to 
form  large  bubbles,  stir  the  whole  roimd  with  a  large 
wooden  spoon ;  place  some  ashes  upon  the  fire,  and  some 
live  charcoal  upon  the  Ud  of  the  stewpan ;  take  off  the  lid 
occasionally,  and  stir  the  meat  round,  prick  it,  and  when 
each  piece  is  covered  with  a  Ught  white  glaze  fill  up  the 
stewpan  with  sixteen  quarts  of  light  stock  (No.  133),  or 
water,  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  salt,  if  water,  but  only 
three  ounces,  if  stock;  when  upon  the  point  of  boiling, 
stand  it  on  the  corner  of  the  stove  and  let  it  simmer  for 
two  hours  and  a  half,  keeping  it  well  skimmed,  and  adding 
a  little  cold  water  every  now  and  then,  to  clarify  it  and 
keep  its  quantity ;  pass  it  through  a  fine  cloth  into  a  basin ; 
then  in  another  stewpan  have  a  pound  of  fresh  butter, 
which  melt  upon  a  slow  fire,  stirring  in  one  pound  and 
a  half  of  flour,  stir  it  over  the  fire  ten  minutes  (but  do  not 
let  it  change  colour),  add  the  trimmings  of  half  a  pottle 
of  mushrooms ;  stir  it  round  another  minute,  then  take  it 
off  the  fire  and  keep  stirring  it  until  about  half  cold ;  then 
pour  in  the  stock  all  at  once,  keeping  it  stirred  quickly ; 
place  it  over  a  sharp  fire,  and  stir  it  until  it  boils,  then 
place  it  at  the  comer  of  the  fire  and  let  it  simmer  for 
two  hours,  keeping  it  well  skimmed;  pass  it  through  a 
tammie  into  a  basin,  and  stir  it  occasionally  until  cold ; 
when  wanted,  take  the  quantity  you  require,  reduce  it  over 
a  sharp  fire,  keeping  it  stirred  until  it  adheres  to  the  back 
of  the  spoon ;  finish  with  half  a  pint  of  cream  or  boiled  mUk. 
This  sauce,  when  well  made,  should  be  as  white  as  ivory ; 


SAUC£S.  7 

it  is  used  for  removes  or  entrees  of  poultry,  and  may  be 
sabstituted  for  white  sauce  in  any  of  ttese  receipts. 

No.  6.  Felautey  a  plainer  way. 

Well  oil  the  bottom  of  a  thick  stewpan;  cut  twelve 
pounds  of  veal  in  dice,  (lamb  trimmings  or  rabbits  may 
be  used  with  it,)  and  two  pounds  of  lean  ham  also  cut  in 
dice ;  put  the  whole  into  the  stewpan  with  three  onions,  a 
canot,  four  cloves,  a  blade  of  mace,  half  a  grated  nutmeg, 
and  a  bunch  of  parsley,  four  sprigs  of  thyme,  and  two 
bay-leaves;  pour  in  a  pint  of  water,  and  set  it  over  a  sharp 
fire^  stirring  it  round  occasionally,  (the  fire  should  be  sharp 
at  first,  but  very  slow  at  the  finish,)  until  the  meat  and 
the  bottom  of  the  stewpan  is  covered  with  a  white  glaze ; 
then  add  a  pound  of  flour,  mix  it  well  with  the  meat,  then 
fill  up  the  stewpan  with  ten  quarts  of  stock  (No.  133), 
or  water ;  add  three  ounces  of  salt,  if  with  water,  but  two 
if  with  stod^,  and  keep  moving  it  round  until  upon '  the 
point  of  boiling,  when  place  it  on  the  comer  of  the  stove 
and  let  it  sunmer  two  hours,  keeping  it  well  skimmed ;  then 
pass  it  through  a  hail-  sieve  into  a  basin,  and  again  through 
a  tammie  into  another  stewpan ;  add  a  few  chopped  mush- 
rooms ;  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  it  is  reduced  to  a  proper 
consistency,  (this  sauce  is  quickly  done,  and  fuU  of  flavour ;) 
finish  with  a  pint  of  cream  or  boihng  milk,  and  use  it  as 
directed  in  the  last. 

No.  7.     Veal  Stock,  WTiite  Sauce y  or  BechanieL 

Cut  twelve  pounds  of  knuckles  of  veal  into  large  dice, 
with  two  pounds  of  lean  ham ;  well  butter  the  bottom  of  a 
large  stewpan,  into  which  put  the  meat,  (some  of  the  bones 
of  the  knuckles  may  be  included  in  the  weight  of  the  meat, 
but  not  much,)  with  three  large  onions,  one  carrot,  a  blade 
of  mace,  four  cloves,  and  a  bunch  of  parsley,  two  sprigs  of 


Q  SAUCES. 

thyme,  and  two  bay-leaves ;  pour  in  half  a  pint  of  water,  and 
place  the  stewpan  over  a  sharp  fire,  stirring  it  occasionally, 
until  the  bottom  is  covered  with  a  clear  white  glaze,  then 
fill  it  up  with  ten  quarts  of  stock  (No.  183),  or  nine  of 
water ;  add  three  ounces  of  salt,  and  when  upon  the  point  of 
boiling,  place  it  on  the  comer  of  the  fire ;  let  it  simmer  two 
hours  and  a  half,  keeping  it  skimmed,  and  adding  cold 
water  occasionally,  to  keep  the  quantity,  then  pass  it 
through  a  fine  cloth  into  a  basin  ;*  then  in  another  stewpan 
have  one  pound  of  fresh  butter,  melt  it  over  a  slow  fire  and 
stir  in  one  pound  and  a  half  of  flour,  stir  it  over  the  fire  ten 
minutes,  but  do  not  let  it  change  colour ;  then  take  it  from 
the  fire,  stirring  it  until  half  cold,  then  pour  in  the  stock, 
stirring  it  quickly  all  the  time ;  place  it  over  a  sharp  fire, 
keep  stirring,  and  boil  it  for  half  an  hour ;  add  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  chopped  mushrooms,  and  a  quart  of  boiling 
milk ;  boil  it  ten  minutes  longer,  then  pass  it  through  a 
tammie  into  a  basin ;  stir  it  occasionally  until  cold,  and  use 
it  where  required. 

This  sauce  is  easily  made,  full  of  flavour,  and  has  a  very 
good  appearance. 

No.  8.  Saitce  AUemande,  (or  German  Sauce  blanche,) 

Is  made  from  either  of  the  three  foregoing  sauces.  Put 
three  quarts  in  a  stewpan,  which  place  over  a  sharp  fire ; 
reduce  it  to  one  third,  keeping  it  stirred  the  whole  time,  it 
will  then  be  very  thick ;  have  the  yolks  of  six  eggs  in  a 
convenient  sized  basin ;  mix  the  sauce  with  them  by  de- 
grees, and  turn  it  again  into  the  stewpan ;  stir  it  again  over 
the  fire  until  the  yolks  are  quite  done,  which  will  take 
about  five  minutes ;  have  three  pints  of  stock  reserved  from 
the  original  sauce,  with  which  mix  it  by  degrees;   also 

*  The  Teal  stock  mentioned  in  the  several  receipts  is  made  precisely  as 
the  stock  for  white  sauce. 


SAUCES.  9 

adda  pint  of  boiling  milk,  but  do  not  make  it  too  thin ;  boil 
it  again  ten  minutes,  then  pass  it  through  a  tanunie  into  a 
basin,  and  stir  it  occasionally  until  cold. 

Use  it  for  entrees  or  removes  of  poultry,  either  hot  or 
oold ;  but  for  cold  removes  of  poultry  it  is  best  adapted. 

This  sauce  never  looks  greasy ;  it  will  keep  four  or  five 
days. 

No.  9.  Demi'Glace. 

• 

Put  two  quarts  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1)  into  a  stewpan 
with  one  quart  of  consomme  (No.  134),  one  ounce  of  glaze, 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  tomate  sauce  (No.  87),  place  it  over 
the  fire,  and  when  boiling  place  it  at  the  comer,  let  it  simmer 
very  fast,  skim  it  well,  and  reduce  it  to  a  clear  light  glaze, 
with  sufficient  consistence  to  adhere  lightly  to  the  back  of'the 
spoon ;  then  put  it  by  in  a  basin,  and  use  it  where  directed. 

AH  thin  sauces  are  or  wiQ  become  very  much  in  vogue ; 
they  invigorate  the  appetite  without  overloading  the 
stomach ;  and  are,  consequently,  more  wholesome ;  all  brown 
sauces  are  preferable  for  meat  or  game  entrees,  and  in  some 
instances,  which  you  wiU  see,  for  poultry ;  but  of  course  the 
arrangement  of  your  tables  would  prevent  you  serving  all 
white  or  all  brown  entrees. 

For  families  who  have  their  entrees  placed  upon  the  table 
at  the  same  time  as  the  soup  and  fish,  a  thin  sauce  is  much 
preferable ;  for  if  even  the  sauce  should  retain  the  same  de- 
gree of  heat  it  was  served  at,  it  will  become  much  thicker 
by  standing ;  but  a  sauce  served  thick  if  allowed  to  remain 
becomes  almost  uneatable. 

No.  10.  Sauce  aujtia  d'Estra^on, 

Put  two  spoonfuls  of  common  vinegar  into  a  stewpan, 
place  it  over  the  fire,  and  when  boiling  add  eighteen  spoon* 
fills  of  demi-glace  (No.  9),  and  six  of  ronsomme  (No,  134)^ 


10  SAUCES. 

add  a  quarter  of  a  teaspoonfiil  of  powdered  sugar,  place  it 
over  the  fire  and  let  it  reduce  very  hat  until  it  adheres 
lightly  to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  then  add  thirty  fresh  leaves 
of  tarragon,  let  it  just  boil  up  and  it  is  ready  for  use.  Do 
not  make  it  too  long  before  you  require  to  use  it,  or  the 
tarragon  would  spoil  the  appearanoe  of  the  sauce. 

No.  11.  Jus  d^Estragon  dmr. 

Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  common  vinegar  into  a  stew- 
pan  with  a  piece  of  glaze  the  size  of  a  walnut ;  place  it  over 
the  fire,  let  it  boil,  then  add  a  quart  of  consomme  (No. 
184),  and  two  spoonfuls  of  brown  gravy  (No.  185),  reduce 
it  to  half,  season  with  a  Uttle  sugar  and  pepper,  finish  with 
leaves  of  tarragon,  as  in  the  last. 

No.  12.  Sauce  aujua  de  Tomatea. 

Put  an  onion  in  shces  into  a  stewpan  with  two  sprigs  of 
thyme,  one  bay-leaf,  half  a  blade  of  mace,  one  clove,  four 
sprigs  of  parsley,  two  ounces  of  lean  ham,  and  one  ounce  of 
butter;  stir  them  round  over  a  slow  fire  until  becoming 
rather  brown,  then  add  a  spoonful  of  ChiU  vinegar,  ten  of 
demi-glace  (No.  9),  and  ten  of  consomme  (No.  184),  boil 
altogether  about  ten  minutes,  skim  it,  then  add  ten  spoon- 
fuls of  very  bright  preserved  tomates,  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
sugar,  and  a  very  Uttle  scraped  garUc ;  season  with  a  Utile 
cayenne  pepper  and  salt ;  boil  altogether  five  minutes,  rub 
it  through  a  tammie,  put  it  again  into  astewpan,  set  it  upon 
the  fire,  boil  and  skim  it.    Use  it  where  directed. 

No.  13.  Sauce  aujua  de  ChampigmoTis, 

Put  eighteen  spoonfuls  of  demi-glace,  (No.  9),  iato  a 
slewpan  with  six  of  consomm^  (No.  134),  and  a  Uttle  sugar ; 
place  it  upon  the  fire  and  reduce  it  to  a  clear  light  demi- 
glaze ;  skim  it  weU,  then  have  chopped  six  good  firesh  mush- 


SAUCES.  11 

looms,  throw  them  into  the  sauce,  boil  them  ten  minutes, 
then  rub  them  through  a  tammie ;  put  it  again  into  a  stew- 
pan,  warm  it,  but  do  not  let  it  boil ;  after  you  have  passed 
it,  if  made  in  the  morning,  warm  it  in  your  dain  marie 
when  required. 

No.  14.  Sauce  demi-provengale. 

Put  eighteen  spoonfuls  of  demi-glace  (No.  9)  into  a 
stewpan  with  sixteen  of  consomme  (No.  184),  place  it  over  a 
sharp  fire,  reduce  it  to  two  thirds,  skim  it,  scrape  half  a 
clove  of  garhc  with  a  knife,  and  put  it  into  the  sauce  with  a 
little  sugar,  boil  it  again  two  minutes,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

No.  15.  Satice  au  jus  piquant. 

Put  two  spoonfiils  of  chopped  eschalots  into  a  stewpan 
with  three  of  vinegar ;  reduce  it  to  half  over  the  fibre,  then 
add  eighteen  spoonfuls  of  demi-glace  (No.  9),  and  six  ci 
consomme  (No.  134),  boil  it  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour, 
skim  it  well,  add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  and  when 
again  forming  a  li^t  glaze,  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
chopped  gherkins,  and  a  little  cayenne  pepper ;  it  must  not 
boil  afterwards. 

No.  16.  Sauce  aujus  d'Echcdote. 

Pat  three  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  eschalots  in  a  stewpan 
with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  place  it  over  a  sharp 
fire  a  couple  of  minutes,  then  add  eighteen  spoonfuls  ot 
demi-glace  (No.  9),  and  six  of  consomme  (No.  134),  boil, 
skim,  and  reduce  it  until  it  adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon, 
add  a  little  sugar  and  cayenne  pepper.   Serve  where  directed. 

No.  17.  Sauce  aujua  d^  Orange. 

Take  the  rind  from  an  orange  as  thinly  as  possible,  take 
off  all  the  pith,  and  cut  it  into  thin  strips,  three  quarters  of 


12  SAUCKS. 

an  inch  in  length ;  boil  them  five  minutes  in  water,  and 
drain  them  upon  the  back  of  a  hair  sieve ;  then  put  a  pint 
of  demi-glace  (No.  9)  into  a  stewpan  with  six  spoonfuls  of 
consomme  (No.  134),  reduce  it  over  the  fire  to  the  consist* 
ency  of  demi-glace,  then  add  the  rind  of  the  orange  and  a 
little  sugar,  boil  it  another  five  minutes,  and  when  ready  to 
serve  add  a  little  of  the  juice  of  the  orange. 

No.  18.  Sauce  aujua  de  Bigarades. 

Proceed  as  directed  in  the  last,  but  substituting  a  Seville 
orange  for  the  sweet  one,  and  boihng  the  rind  ten  minutes 
instead  of  five. 

No.  1 9.  Ju8  lie  demi  Currie. 

Peel  and  cut  in  slices  a  large  onion,  some  carrot,  turnip, 
two  apples,  and  two  ounces  of  lean  ham ;  put  them  into  a 
Btewpan  with  two  cloves,  a  blade  of  mace,  a  bay-leaf,  sprig 
of  thyme,  parsley,  and  one  ounce  of  butter;  put  the 
stewpan  over  a  slow  fire,  stir  them  round  occasionally 
until  they  become  slightly  browned,  then  add  a  good  table- 
spoonful  of  the  best  cmry  powder,  mix  it  well,  then  add 
ten  of  consomme  (No.  134)  and  eighteen  of  demi-glace 
(No.  9),  boil  altogether,  then  rub  it  through  a  tammie ;  put 
it  in  another  stewpan,  place  it  again  upon  the  fire,  skim  it 
well,  and  reduce  it  until  it  adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon, 
when  add  a  Uttle  sugar  and  cayenne  if  required,  but  that 
must  depend  entirely  upon  taste. 

No.  20.  Jti8  lie  au3o  Concomhres, 

Prepare  three  middling-sized  cucumbers,  as  directed  (No. 
103),  then  put  two  oimces  of  butter  with  a  teaspoonful  of 
powdered  sugar,  and  half  one  of  chopped  onions,  into  a 
stewpan,  place  it  over  the  fire,  and  when  the  butter  is  melted 
add  the  cucumbers,  which  pass  over  the  fire  until  tender 


SAUCK8.  IS 

and  sHghily  tinged ;  then  put  them  out  upon  a  cloth,  put 
eighteen  spoonfuls  of  demi-glace  (No.  9)  into  anotiier 
stewpan  with  six  of  consomme  (No.  134),  reduce  it  until 
rather  thickish ;  then  add  the  cucumbers,  boil  them  two 
minutes,  season  with  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and  the  half  of 
one  of  pepper,  skim  it,  and  it  is  ready  to  serve. 

No.  21.  Jus  lie  aux  Tn^es. 

Put  eighteen  spoonfuls  of  demi-glace  (No.  9)  into  a 
stewpan  with  ten  of  consomme  (No.  134),  reduce  it  until  it 
becomes  again  a  demi-glace,  then  add  six  middling-sized 
French  preserved  truffles,  cut  in  thin  slices,  with  a  quarter 
of  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  simmer  gently  ten  minutes,  it  is 
then  ready  to  serve. 

No.  22.  Jus  lie  aux  Anchois. 

Put  six  tablespoonfols  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1)  into  a 
stewpan  with  three  of  consomme  (No.  134),  and  one  of 
brown  gravy  (No.  135),  place  it  upon  the  fire,  and  when 
boiling  stir  in  two  ounces  of  anchovy  butter  (No.  78),  stir 
it  in  quickly,  but  do  not  let  it  boil  afterwards.  This  sauce 
must  be  made  only  at  the  time  of  serving. 

No.  23.  Jus  lie  aux  fines  Herbes, 

Put  two  tablespoonfiils  of  finely-chopped  onions  into  a 
stewpan  with  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a  walnut ;  stir 
them  over  the  fire  until  lightly  browned ;  then  add  eighteen 
spoonfuls  of  demi-glace  (No.  9),  and  eight  of  consomme 
(No.  134),  reduce  it  to  two  thirds,  skim  it  well,  then  add  a 
tablespoonfiil  of  chopped  parsley,  and  one  of  chopped  mush- 
rooms, with  a  little  cayenne  pepper,  and  a  quarter  of  a  tea- 
spoonfdl  of  powdered  sugar ;  boil  altogether  five  minutes, 
and  finish  with  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon ;  it  is  then  ready 
for  use. 


14  SAUCES. 


No.  24.  Ju8  lie  auxpeiits  Navets. 

Scoop  four  large  turnips  with  a  scoop  about  double  the 
size  of  a  pea  \  when  done,  wash  and  well  dry  them  upon  a 
cloth,  then  put  a  Uttle  powdered  sugar  into  a  convenient 
sized  stewpan ;  place  it  upon  the  fire,  when  it  melts  and 
becomes  shghtly  tinged,  throw  in  an  ounce  of  butter  and 
the  turnips,  place  them  over  a  slow  fire,  tossing  them  over 
occasionally  until  slightly  browned ;  then  in  another  stewpan 
put  ten  spoonfuls  of  demi-glace  (No.  9,)  and  six  of  consonmie, 
theu  add  your  turnips ;  let  it  rimmer  upon  the  comer  of  the 
fire,  keeping  it  skimmed  until  the  turnips  are  done ;  add  a 
little  more  seasoning,  if  required,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

No.  25.  Jus  lie  omx  Olives, 

Put  half  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  onions  into  a  stew- 
pan  with  the  same  of  salad  oil ;  pass  them  five  minutes  over 
a  slow  fire,  then  add  a  teaspoonfol  of  port  wine,  eighteen  of 
demi-glace  (No.  9),  and  six  of  consomme  (No.  134),  reduce  it 
to  two  thirds,  skimming  it  well,  then  have  twenty  fine  olives, 
turn  them,  taking  out  their  stones,  so  that  they  resume  their 
original  shape,  put  them  into  the  stewpan  with  a  Uttle  sugar, 
boil  them  two  minutes,  and  the  sauce  is  ready.  Should  the 
olives  be  too  salt,  soak  them  a  short  time  in  warm  water. 

No.  26.  Sauce  aux  fines  Herbes. 

Put  three  tablespoonfiils  of  chopped  onions  into  a  stew- 
pan with  one  ounce  of  butter,  stir  them  over  a  moderate  fire 
until  getting  rather  brownish,  theni&dd  a  pint  of  brown  sauce 
(No.  1),  half  a  pint  of  consomme  (No.  134),  and  two  spoon- 
fuls of  brown  gravy  (No.  135),  let  it  simmer  ten  minutes, 
skim  it  well,  then  stir  it  over  a  sharp  fire,  reducing  it  until 
it  adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  then  add  a  spoonful  of 


SAUCBS.  1 5 

chopped  mushrooms^  one  of  chopped  parsley,  and  one  of 
preserved  tomates ;  season  with  a  little  sugar,  cayenne,  and 
salt,  if  required.  When  ready  to  serve  add  the  juice  of  half 
a  lemon. 

No.  27.  Sauce  piquante. 

Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  onions  into  a  stewpan 
with  four  of  common  vinegar,  and  a  small  piece  of  glaze ; 
let  them  hoil  together  a  few  minutes,  then  add  a  pint  of 
brown  sauce  (No.  1),  with  half  a  pint  of  consomm^  (No.  1 34), 
stir  it  quickly  over  a  dbarp  fire  until  it  adheres  to  the  back 
of  iJie  spoon ;  then  add  a  teaspoonfiil  of  chopped  mushrooms, 
and  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  gherkins ;  it  is  then  ready 
for  use.  This  sauce  requires  to  be  seasoned  rather  high 
with  cayenne  pepper,  sugar,  and  salt. 

No.  28.  Sauce  Robert 

Peel  and  cut  up  four  middling-sized  onions  into  very 
small  dice,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  two  ounces  of  but- 
ter, stir  them  over  a  moderate  fire  until  rather  brown ;  then 
add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  common  vinegar,  let  it  boil ;  then 
add  a  pint  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1),  with  half  a  pint  of  con* 
somme  (No.  134),  let  it  simmer  at  the  comer  of  the  stove 
ten  minutes ;  skim  it  well,  then  stir  it  over  a  sharp  fire, 
reducing  it  until  rather  thick ;  finish  it  with  two  tablespoon- 
fuls of  Pr6nch  mustard,  a  little  sugar,  and  salt,  if  required. 

No.  29.  Sauce  Robert  demi-provenfole. 

Put  the  same  quantity  of  onions  into  a  stewpan  as  in  the 
last,  but  using  two  tablespoonfuls  of  salad  oil  instead  of 
butter;  pioceed  as  in  the  last,  and  finish  with  a  piece  of 
scraped  garfic  the  size  of  a  pea.  Use  this  sauce  for  any  pur< 
pose  you  would  the  preceding  one. 


16  SAUCES. 


No.  SO.  Sauce  a  Vltalienne. 

Pat  two  tablespoonfids  of  chopped  onions  and  one  rf 
chopped  eschalots  in  a  stewpan  with  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
salad  oil,  stir  them  ten  minutes  over  a  sharp  fire ;  then  add  a 
wine-glassful  of  sherry,  a  pint  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1),  and 
half  a  pint  of  consomme  (No.  134),  set  it  over  a  sharp  fire 
until  it  boils,  then  place  it  at  the  comer,  let  it  simmer  ten 
minutes,  skim  off  all  the  oil  which  it  will  throw  up,  then 
place  it  over  the  fire,  stir  with  a  spoon,  reducing  it  tmtil 
it  adheres  to  the  back  of  it,  then  add  a  teaspoonful  of 
chopped  parsley,  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  mushroontis,  a 
little  sugar,  salt  if  required,  and  finish  with  the  juice  of  half 
a  lemon. 

No.  31.  Sawe  a  TItalienne  (tohite.) 

Italian  sauce  for  any  description  of  fish,  white  meat,  or 
poultry,  must  be  made  white,  which  is  done  by  following 
the  directions  of  the  preceding  receipts,  only  substituting 
white  sauce  (No.  7)  for  the  brown,  and  finishing  with  three 
spoonfuls  of  cream. 

No.  32.  Sauce  JPoivrade, 

Put  two  onions,  half  a  carrot,  and  a  turnip,  in  slices,  into 
a  stewpan,  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  a  Uttle  celery,  leek,  a 
sprig  of  parsley,  one  of  thyme,  one  bay-leaf,  two  ounces  of 
lean  ham,  and  eight  peppercorns ;  pass  them  over  a  sharp 
fire  until  rather  brown,  add  six  tablespoonfids  of  Tarragon 
vinegar,  just  boil  it,  then  add  a  pint  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1), 
and  half  a  pint  of  consomme  (No.  134) ;  simmer  a  short 
time,  skim  it,  then  reduce  quickly  until  it  adheres  to  the 
back  of  the  spoon,  then  pass  it  through  a  tammie  and  use 
where  directed.     This  sauce  requires  to  be  highly  seasoned. 


8  AUCS8.  1 7 

No.  33.  Sauce  poivrade  demi-provenfale. 

Proceed  as  in  the  last,  but  adding  two  eschalots  to  the 
vegetables,  which  pass*  in  a  tablespoonfiil  of  oil  instead  of 
batter,  and  finish  with  a  httle  scraped  garlic. 

No.  34.  Sauce  a  la  Bateliere. 

Put  a  tablespoonfiil  of  chopped  eschalots,  one  of  chopped 
tarragon,  one  of  chopped  parsley,  and  four  of  chopped  mush- 
rooms into  a  stewpan  with  one  blade  of  mace,  three  cloves, 
a  win^lassful  of  vinegar,  and  one  of  sherry ;  set  it  upon 
the  fire  until  nearly  dry,  then  add  a  quart  of  brown  sauce 
(No.  1),  vFith  a  pint  of  consomme,  (No.  134),  reduce  it 
imtil  it  adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  then  add  a  spoon- 
ful of  chopped  gherkins,  and  one  of  chopped  capers ;  when 
ready  to  serve  stir  in  an  ounce  of  anchovy  butter  (No.  78). 
Do  not  let  it  boil  afterwards. 

This  sauce  is  a  good  zest  for  any  description  of  broiled 
meat  or  poultry. 

No.  35.  Sauce  a  la  JRe/orm, 

Cut  up  two  middling-sized  onions  into  thin  sUces  and  put 
them  into  a  stewpan  with  two  sprigs  of  parsley,  two  of  thyme, 
two  bay-leaves,  two  ounces  of  lean  uncooked  ham,  half  a  clove 
of  garlic,  half  a  blade  of  mace,  and  an  ounce  of  firesh  but- 
ter; stir  them  ten  minutes  over  a  sharp  fire,  then  add  two 
tablespoonfiils  of  Tarragon  vinegar,  and  one  of  ChiU  vinegar, 
boil  it  one  minute ;  then  add  a  pint  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1 ), 
or  sauce  Espagnole  (No.  2),  three  tablespoonfols  of  pre- 
served tomates,  and  eight  of  consomme  (No.  134) ;  place  it 
over  the  fire  until  boiling,  then  put  it  at  the  comer,  let  it 
sinmier  ten  minutes,  skim  it  well,  then  place  it  again  over 
the  fire,  keeping  it  stirred,  and  reduce  until  it  adheres  to 

*  A  culinary  tenn. 


18  SAUCES. 

the  back  of  the  spoon ;  then  add  a  good  tablespoonful  of  red 
currant  jelly,  and  half  do.  of  chopped  mushrooms ;  season 
a  little  more  if  required  with  pepper  and  salt ;  stir  it  until 
the  jeUy  is  melted,  then  pass  it  through  a  tammie  into  an- 
other stewpan.  When  ready  to  serve,  make  it  hot,  and  add 
the  white  of  a  hard-boiled  egg  cut  into  strips  half  an  inch 
long,  and  thick  in  proportion,  four  white  blanched  mush- 
rooms, one  gherkin,  two  green  Indian  pickles,  and  half  an 
ounce  of  cooked  ham,  or  tongue,  all  cut  in  strips  Uke  the 
white  of  egg;  do  not  let  it  boil  afterwards.  This  sauce 
must  be  poured  over  whatever  it  is  served  with. 

No.  36.  Sauce  aujua  de  Groaeillea, 

Put  a  couple  of  onions  in  slices  into  a  stewpan,  with 
half  an  oimce  of  butter,  a  sprig  of  thyme,  and  one  bay-leaf ; 
pass  them  over  a  sharp  fire  until  lightly  brovmed ;  add  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  common  vinegar,  let  it  boil,  and  then  add  a 
pint  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1),  and  half  a  pint  of  consomme 
(No.  134) ;  let  it  simmer  ten  minutes  at  the  comer  of  the 
fire,  skim  it  well,  then  place  it  over  the  fire,  stir  and  reduce 
it  well,  imtil  it  adheres  Ughtly  to  the  back  of  the  spoon ; 
then  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  red  currant  jelly ;  pass  it 
through  a  tammie,  and  it  is  ready  to  serve  with  roast  hares, 
fillet,  &c.,  where  directed. 

No.  37.  Sauce  aux  Ibmates. 

Procure  two  dozen  ripe  tomates,  take  out  the  stalk, 
squeeze  out  the  juice  and  the  seeds,  then  put  them  into 
a  stewpan  with  a  little  salt,  stew  until  tender,  and  drain 
them  upon  a  sieve;  then,  in  another  stewpan,  put  two 
onions,  part  of  a  carrot,  and  a  turnip,  all  cut  in  vefy  thin 
slices,  with  a  bunch  of  parsley,  two  sprigs  of  thyme,  two 
bay-leaves,  two  cloves,  a  blade  of  mace,  a  clove  of  garUc, 
two  ounces  of  lean  uncooked  ham,  and  a  quarter  of  a 


SAUCES,  19 

pound  of  butter ;  place  the  stewpan  over  a  moderate  fire, 
stir  the  mierepoix  round  oocasionally,  until  the  vegetables 
are  tender,  then  add  the  tomates,  stir  them  over  the  fire 
another  minute,  then  stir  in  six  ounces  of  flour,  and  add 
two  quarts  of  consomme  (No.  134) ;  boil  altogether  twenty- 
five  minutes,  keeping  it  stirred,  season  it  with  a  httle  salt, 
sugar,  and  cayenne  pepper,  then  rub  it  through  a  tammie ; 
put  it  into  another  stewpan,  set  it  over  the  fire,  when  boil- 
ing place  it  at  the  comer,  let  simmer  ten  minutes,  skrm 
well,  then  pour  it  in  a  basin,  and  use  where  directed. 
If  no  tomates,  use  two  bottles  of  preserved  tomatas.  If  too 
thick,  dilute  it  with  a  httle  more  consonun^. 

No.  88.  Sauce  a  la  Tartare. 

Rub  the  yolk  of  a  cold  hard-boiled  egg  through  a  hair- 
sieve  into  a  basin,  to  which  add  the  yolks  of  two  raw  eggs, 
with  a  httle  salt  and  pepper ;  mix  altogether  with  a  wooden 
spoon ;  have  a  pint  of  good  salad  oil  in  a  bottle,  hold  it 
with  the  left  hand  over  the  basiu,  dropping  it  in  very  gra- 
duaDy,  and  with  the  right  continue  stirring  it  round  until 
it  becomes  rather  thick,  then  moisten  it  with  a  httle  Tar- 
ragon vinegar,  still  keeping  it  stirred,  then  more  oil,  and  so 
on  until  you  have  used  all  the  oil,  keeping  it  rather  thick ; 
then  add  a  tablespoonful  of  finely-chopped  gherkins,  half  a 
do.  of  chopped  capers,  half  a  do.  of  chopped  eschalots,  and 
the  same  of  chopped  parsley,  two  of  French  mustard,  a  httle 
cayenne  pepper,  sugar,  and  more  salt  if  required,  it  is  then 
ready  for  use.  This  sauce  requires  to  be  rather  highly 
seasoned. 

No.  39.  JPajnllote  Sauce. 

Scrape  two  ounces  of  fat  bacon,  which  put  into  a  stew- 
pan, with  two  tablespoonfols  of  chopped  eschalots,  and  four 
of  chopped  mushrooms ;  stir  them  over  a  moderate  fire  ten 


20  SAUCES. 

t 

minutes,  then  add  half  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  (mix  it  well) 
and  a  quart  of  demi-glace  (No.  9) ;  let  it  simmer  ten  minutes, 
skim  it ;  then  add  a  spoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  a  little 
pepper  and  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  sugar,  and 
a  Uttle  grated  nutmeg ;  mix  the  whole  well  together,  then 
place  it  upon  the  fire;  keep  it  stirred,  and  reduce  until 
rather  thick,  then  pom:  it  into  a  basin,  and  use  where  di- 
rected.    This  sauce  requires  to  be  thick,  but  not  pasty ;  it 
\a  folded  in  paper  with  cotelettes,  joints  of  poultty,  game,  &c., 
with  which  it  is  also  broiled  and  served,  without  taking 
them  out  of  the  papers. 

No.  40.  Sauce  a  la  Liable. 

Chop  six  large  eschalots,  wash  and  press  them  in  a  clean 
cloth,  then  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  two  wine-glasses 
full  of  ChiU  vmegar,  a  piece  of  garUc,  two  bay-leaves,  and 
an  ounce  of  glaze ;  boil  all  together  ten  minutes,  then  add 
four  tablespoonfols  of  tomate  sauce  (No.  37),  a  httle  sugar, 
and  ten  of  good  gravy ;  boil  it  ten  minutes  longer,  then  add 
a  pat  of  butter ;  stir  it  well  in,  and  it  is  ready  for  use ; 
serve  it  with  devilled  kidneys,  poultry,  or  anything  broiled. 

No.  41.  Sauce  Corinthien. 

Put  four  chopped  gherkins  into  a  stewpan  vrith  a  table- 
spoonful  of  capers,  two  of  red  currant  jelly,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  a  little  cayenne  pepper,  a  Kttle  grated 
nutmeg,  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  chalots,  one  of  chopped 
parsley,  a  wine-glassful  of  vinegar,  and  half  a  tablespoonful 
of  sugar ;  boil  all  together  five  minutes,  then  add  six  table- 
spoonfuls  of  brovm  sauce  (No.  1),  and  twelve  of  tomate 
sauce  (No.  37),  with  six  of  white  broth ;  boil  and  skim  it 
well;  this  peculiar  sauce  is  good  for  aU  kinds  of  broiled 
meat,  game,  or  poultry,  or  may  be  eaten  cold,  with  cold 
meat. 


SAVCIS.  21 

No.  42.  Sauce  Provengale  chaude. 

Pat  two  yolks  of  egg  in  a  stewpan,  with  half  a  tables 
spoonful  of  flour,  half  a  clove  of  garlic  well  scraped,  a  small 
quantity  of  cayenne  pepper,  two  ounces  of  butter,  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon ;  place  it 
over  a  moderate  fire,  and  stir  it  until  it  becomes  rather 
thick ;  then  take  it  off  the  fire,  stir  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
oil  by  d^rees,  then  eight  of  melted  butter ;  if  you  should 
require  to  warm  it  again,  stir  it  in  a  bain  marie  of  hot 
water.     Use  where  required. 

No.  43.  Sauce  a  la  Maitre  d^HdteL 

Put  eight  spoonfuls  of  white  sauce  (No.  7)  in  a  stewpan, 
with  four  of  white  stock  or  milk ;  boil  it  five  minutes,  then 
stir  in  three  oxmces  of  maitre  d'hotel  butter  (No.  79);  stir  it 
quickly  over  the  fire  until  the  butter  is  melted,  but  do  not 
let  the  sauce  boil  aft^  the  butter  is  in ;  this  sauce  should 
only  be  made  at  the  time  of  serving. 

No.  44.  Sauce  a  la  Baviffote. 

Proceed  precisely  as  in  the  last,  only  using  Ravigote 
butter  (No.  80),  instead  of  the  maitre  d'hotel  butter,  as 
there  directed 

The  simplicity  of  the  last  two  sauces  is  perhaps  not 

greater  than  their  utility  or  deHcacy ;  they  may  not  only  be 

served  with  various  descriptions  of  fish  where  directed,  but 

with  fillets  of  beef,  mutton  and  lamb  cutlets,  calf's  head, 

calves'  tails,  and  many  other  articles  where  directed  in  this 

worL 

No.  45.  Sauce  a  VIndienne. 

Put  two  good  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  eschalots  into  a 
stewpan,  with  four  of  white  vinegar  from  a  bottle  of  mild 
Indian  pickles,  boil  them  a  couple  of  minutes,  then  add  a 


22  SAUCES. 

pint  of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  and  three  tablespoonfiils  of 
white  broth ;  reduce  it  over  a  sharp  fire  (keeping  it  stirred) 
until  rather  thickish,  then  add  two  tablespoonfiils  of  cream, 
md  pass  it  through  a  tammie  into  another  stewpan ;  when 
ready  to  serve  make  it  hot,  and  add  six  of  the  pickles,  cut 
in  strips,  which  serve  in  it. 

No.  46.  Curry  Sauce. 

Peel  four  large  onions  and  two  apples,  sUce,  and 
put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
butter,  a  blade  of  mace,  six  .peppercorns,  a  sprig  of  thyme, 
parsley,  and  two  bay-leaves;  stir  them  over  a  moderate 
fire  until  the  onions  become  brown  and  tender,  then  add 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  the  best  curry-powder,  and  two  of 
flour ;  mix  it  well  in,  then  add  half  a  pint  of  white  sauce 
(No.  7),  and  a  quart  of  white  stock ;  season  with  a  little 
salt,  and  half  a  teaspoonfal  of  sugar ;  boil  it  a  quarter  of  an 
hour,  keeping  it  stirred,  then  rub  through  a  tammie ;  put 
it  into  another  stewpan,  boil  it  up,  skim  and  use  it  where 
required.  Mangoes  or  curry  paste  may  be  used,  but  then 
you  only  require  one  spoonful  of  curry  powder. 

No.  47.  Sauce  Soubise. 

Peel  six  large  onions,  which  cut  in  very  thin  slices,  pul 
them  into  a  stewpan  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter, 
and  place  them  over  a  slow  fire,  stirring  occasionally 
until  tender,  but  keeping  them  quite  white ;  then  add  an 
ounce  of  flour,  mix  it  well  in,  then  half  a  pint  of  white 
sauce  (No.  7),  and  half  a  pint  of  milk;  boil  altogethei 
twenty  minutes  ;  season  with  half  a  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  white  pepper,  half  ditto  of  salt,  and  three  quarters  ditto  of 
sugar,  a  little  cream  may  also  be  added ;  rub  through  a  tam- 
mie, put  it  in  another  stewpan,  make  it  hot,  and  serve  where 
required.     This  sauce  must  be  rather  thick,  but  not  pasty. 


SAUCES.  23 

♦ 

No.  48.  Sauce  Soubise  {brown). 

Fed  and  slice  six  onions,  as  in  the  last,  put  them  into  a 
stewpan  with  a  quarter  oi  a  pound  of  butter,  pass  thein  over 
a  moderate  fire  until  tender  and  of  a  light  brown  colour, 
then  mix  in  one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  add  a  pint  of  demi- 
glace  (No.  9),  and  ten  tablespoonfuls  of  brown  gravy  (No. 
135),  bdl  altogether  until  the  onions  are  quite  done,  sea- 
son with  a  little  pepper,  salt,  and  grated  nutmeg,  rub  it 
through  a  tumnie,  put  it  into  another  stewpan,  make  it  hot, 
and  serve  where  directed. 

No.  49.  Sauce  a  la  Milanaise. 

Cut  thirty  pieces  of  blanched  maccaroni  half  an  inch  in 
length,  as  many  pieces  of  lean  cooked  ham  of  the  same  size, 
and  an  equal  quantity  of  white  blanched  mushrooms  also 
the  same,  then  put  twelve  tablespoonfuls  of  white  sauce 
(No.  7),  in  a  stewpan  with  four  of  white  broth,  season  with 
a  little  cayenne  pepper,  salt,  and  sugar ;  boil  it  ten  minutes, 
then  add  the  above  ingredients  with  two  ounces  of  grated 
Parmesan  che^e,  stir  all  gently  over  the  fire  ten  minutes, 
finish  with  a  tablespoonful  of  cream>  and  use  where  required. 

No.  50.     Sauce  ou  Ragout  a  la  Financiere. 

Put  a  wineglassfiil  of  sherry  into  a  stewpan  with  a  piece 
of  glaze  the  size  of  a  walnut,  and  a  bay-leaf,  place  it  upon 
the  fire,  and  when  it  boUs  add  a  quart  of  demi-glace 
(No.  9) ;  let  it  boil  ten  minutes,  keeping  it  stirred ;  then  add 
twelve  firesh  blanched  mushrooms,  twelve  prepared  cocks- 
combs, a  throat  sweetbread  cut  into  thin  slices,  two  French 
preserved  truffles  also  in  slices,  and  twelve  small  quenelles 
(No.  120) ;  boil  altogether  ten  minutes,  skim  it  well,  thin  it 
with  a  little  consomme  if  required,  but  it  must  be  rather 
thick,  and  seasoned  very  palatably. 


24  SAUCJSS 

The  above  may  also  be  made  white  b^  using  bediameU 
or  white  sauce  (No.  7)  instead  of  brown,  and  following  the 
above  directions  and  finishing  with  half  a  gill  of  cream ;  serve 
in  a  vol-au-vent  or  wherever  directed. 

No.  51.  Sauce  aux  Trt^^, 

Put  a  pint  of  demi-glace  (No.  9)  into  a  stewpan,  place  it 
over  the  fire,  keeping  it  stirred  until  it  has  reduced  one 
third;  have  four  middling-sized  preserved  French  truffles 
cut  into  slices,  which  throw  into  the  sauce,  add  a  Uttle  sugar, 
and  take  it  from  the  fire,  not  allowing  it  to  boil  after  the 
truffles  are  in ;  it  is  then  ready  to  serve  where  directed :  by 
this  simple  method  you  retain  the  full  flavour  of  the  truffles, 
and  keep  them  tender.  Sauce  aux  truffles  may  also  be 
made  white  by  using  white  sauce  (No.  7),  instead  of  demi- 
glace,  and  finishing  with  half  a  gill  of  cream,  but  it  requires 
to  be  rather  thicker  than  the  brown.  When  brown,  neither 
this  sauce  nor  the  following  must  be  too  thick. 

No.  52.  Sauce  aux  Champignons, 

Put  a  pint  of  demi-glace  (No.  9)  into  a  stewpan,  reduce 
it  to  one  third,  keeping  it  stirred,  then  add  twenty  blanched 
mushrooms  (No.  107),  a  little  catsup,  and  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  sugar ;  boil  altogether  a  few  minutes,  skim  it,  and  it  is 
ready  to  serve.  To  make  it  white  put  a  pint  of  white  sauce 
(No.  7)  into  a  stewpan  with  half  a  teaspoonfal  of  sugar, 
when  it  boils  add  twenty  mushrooms,  boil  altogether  ten 
minutes,  then  stir  in  a  liaison  of  one  yolk  of  egg  mixed  with 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  but  do  not  let  it  boU  afterwards. 

No.  63.  Sauce  a  lajmree  de  Thifflea, 

Well  pound  eight  middUng-sized  French  preserved  truf- 
fles, which  afterwards  rub  through  a  hair  sieve  with  a 
wooden  spoon,  then  put  half  an  onion,  a  small  piece  of 


FAUCES.  25 

carrot  and  turnip,  cut  into  very  thin  slices,  into  a  stewpan  with 
a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a  wahiut,  half  a  bay-leaf,  a  sprig  of 
parsley,  and  an  ounce  of  lean  uncooked  ham ;  stir  them  over 
the  fire  until  quite  tender ;  then  add  half  a  glass  of  wine  and  the 
poimded  truffles,  with  which  mix  half  a  teaspoonful  of  flour ; 
then  add  eight  good  tablespoonfuls  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1), 
boil  it  ten  minutes ;  then  rub  it  through  a  tammie,  put  it  into 
another  stewpan,  add  a  little  consomme  (No.  134),  boil  it  up, 
season  with  a  Uttle  sugar,  and  salt,  if  required,  and  use  where 
directed. 

No.  54.  Sawe  a  la  puree  de  Champignons, 

Well  pound  a  pottle  of  very  fresh  white  mushrooms,  then 
put  half  an  onion,  a  small  piece  of  carrot,  and  a  small  piece  of 
turnip,  cut  into  very  thin  slices,  into  a  stewpan  with  a  piece 
of  butter  the  size  of  a  walnut,  half  a  bay-leaf,  a  sprig  of  pars- 
ley, and  an  ounce  of  lean  uncooked  ham ;  stir  them  over  the 
fire  until  quite  tender,  then  add  the  mushrooms,  and  eight 
tablespoonfiils  of  white  sauce  (No.  7) ;  season  with  a  little 
salt,  and  sugar,  boil  it  ten  minutes,  add  four  tablespoonfuls 
of  cream,  and  rub  it  through  a  tammie,  put  it  into  a  stew- 
pan, boil  it  one  minute,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

No.  55.  Sauce  Perigeux, 

Put  four  middling-sized  truffles,  chopped  very  fine,  into  a 
stewpan  with  a  glass  of  sherry,  boil  it  one  minute,  then  add 
a  pint  of  demi-glace  (No.  9),  season  with  a  little  sugar,  and 
salt,  if  required,  boil  a  minute  and  it  is  ready  to  serve. 

No.  53.  Sauce  Bechamel  a  la  Crenie. 

Put  a  pint  of  bechamel  sauce  (No.  7),  and  half  a  pint  of 
white  stock  (No.  133),  in  a  stewpan,  reduce  it  over  a  sharp 
fire,  (keeping  it  stirred),  to  one  half,  then  add  half  a  pint  of 
good  cream,  a  little  sugar,  and  salt  if  requir^sd,  boil  it  ano- 
ther minute,  and  serve  where  required. 


26  8AUCR8. 

No.  57.  Sauce  an  Supreme. 

Take  the  bones  of  a  fowl  you  have  filetted,  or  the  trinuoings 
of  any  other  fowl,  either  roast  or  braised,  (which  is  preferable 
if  any,)  but  if  using  the  bones  of  a  raw  fowl  lay  it  in  warm 
water  two  hours  to  disg(»^e,  break  the  bones  small  and  put 
them  into  a  stewpan  with  half  an  ounoe  of  butter,  a  glass  of 
sherry,  one  onion  with  a  clove  stuck  in  it,  and  one  ounce 
of  ham ;  place  it  over  a  good  fire,  keep  stirring  occasion- 
ally until  the  bottom  of  the  stewpan  is  covered  with  a  light 
glaze,  then  add  a  quart  of  light  broth  (No.  133),  let  it  boil  at 
the  comer  of  the  stove,  skim  and  reduce  it  to  one  third,  pass 
it  through  a  cloth,  (but  first  carefully  take  off  every  particle 
of  fat),  into  a  large  stewpan,  add  a  pint  of  veloute  (No.  5), 
or  bechamel  (No.  7),  reduce  it  over  a  sharp  fire,  keeping  it 
stirred  until  it  adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon ;  then  add  a 
little  sugar  and  four  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  boil  two 
minutes  longer,  pass  it  through  a  tanunie,  and  use  where 
required. 

No.  58.  Veloute  de  Gibier. 

Must  be  made  either  fi*om  pheasant  or  partridge ;  (wild 
rabbit  may  be  introduced) ;  chop  up  the  bones,  which  put 
into  a  stewpan  with  an  onion,  the  quarter  of  a  carrot,  and 
the  quarter  of  a  turnip  (cut  up  small),  a  little  parsley,  thyme, 
and  one  bay-leaf;  add  a  glass  of  white  wine;  pass  them  a 
few  mmutes  over  the  fire,  then  add  a  quart  of  sauce  veloute 
(No.  5),  or  sauce  bechamel  (No.  7),  and  a  pint  of  veal 
stock ;  place  it  again  over  the  fire,  and  keep  stirring  until 
it  becomes  rather  thickish ;  then  add  a  gill  of  cream,  and  a 
little  sugar,  boil  again  until  it  adheres  to  the  back  of  the 
spoon,  then  pass  it  through  a  sieve,  and  afterwards  through 
a  tammie,  and  use  where  directed.  The  bones  of  two  par- 
tridges or  one  pheasant  would  be  sufficients 


SAUCES.  27 

No.  59.  Sauce  a  la  puree  de  Gibier. 

Roast  a  grouse,  and  separate  all  the  flesh  from  the  bones, 
make  a  sauce  with  the  bones  as  directed  in  the  next ;  pound 
the  flesh  well  in  a  mortar,  put  it  into  a  stewpan ;  then  add 
the  sauce,  boil  altogether  five  minutes,  then  rub  it  through 
a  tammie,  and  serve  where  directed. 

Any  description  of  game,  or  the  remains  of  soma  from  a 
previous  dinner,  may  be  used  for  the  above  purpose ;  the 
puree  requires  to  be  as  thick  as  bechamel  sauce  (No.  7). 

No.  60.  Sauce  aufumee  de  Gibier. 

Boast  two  grouse,  let  them  get  partly  cold  if  time  per* 
mits,  then  cut  them  into  joints,  which  use  for  a  salmi  (see 
No.  876) ;  chop  the  trimmings  up  small,  with  the  back 
bones,  and  put' them  into  a  stewpan  with  a  glass  of  sherry, 
an  onion,  a  piece  of  carrot,  and  a  piece  of  turnip,  all  in 
sUces,  a  little  celery,  a  sprig  of  thyme,  and  parsley,  a  bay- 
leaf,  one  clove,  and  half  a  blade  of  mace,  stir  them  over  the 
fire  five  minutes,  then  add  a  quart  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1), 
and  a  pint  of  consomme  (No.  134) ;  boil  quickly  upon  the 
comer  of  the  stove  twenty  minutes,  then  skim  it  well,  pass 
it  through  a  sieve,  and  afterwards  through  a  tammie  into  a 
basin,  and  use  where  required. 

The  trimmings  of  any  description  of  game,  or  some  left 
firom  a  previous  dinner,  may  be  used  for  making  the  above 
sauce,  but  if  you  have  the  choice,  the  trimmings  of  grouse 
are  preferable. 

No.  61.  Benii-glace  de  Gibier. 

Make  a  sauce  as  above,  when  passed  put  it  into  a  stew- 
pan with  a  pint  of  consomme  (No.  134),  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  tomate  sauce  (No.  37) ;  simmer  it  at  the  comer 
of  the  stove  ten  minutes,  add  a  little  sugar,  skim  it  well, 


28  SAUCM. 

then  reduce  it  quickly  until  a  thinish  glaze  is  formed  and 
adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon. 

No.  62.  Satice  Matelotte, 

Peel  about  twenty  button  onions,  then  put  a  teaspoonfiil 
of  powdered  sugar  in  a  stewpan,  place  it  over  a  sharp  fire, 
and  when  melted  and  getting  brown,  add  a  piece  of  butter 
the  size  of  two  walnuts,  and  your  onions,  pass  them  over  the 
fire  until  rather  brown ;  then  add  a  glass  of  sherry,  let  it 
boil,  then  add  a  pint  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1),  and  ten 
spoonfuls  of  consomme  (No.  134),  simmer  at  the  comer  of 
the  fire  until  the  onions  are  quite  tender,  skim  it  well ;  then 
add  twenty  small  quenelles  (No.  120),  ten  heads  of  mush- 
rooms, a  teaspoonful  of  essence  of  anchovies,  one  of  catsup, 
one  of  Harvey  sauce,  and  a  little  cayenne  pepper.  Serve  where 
directed. 

No.  63.  8atice  Genevoise, 

Put  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  onions  and  one  of  chop- 
ped eschalots  into  a  stewpan  with  half  an  ounce  of  butter,  pass 
them  over  the  fire  until  lightly  browned,  then  add  four  glasses 
of  port  wine,  two  cloves,  and  half  a  blade  of  mace,  with  two 
bay-leaves,  a  sprig  of  th]rme,  and  one  of  parsley,  boil  them  a 
few  minutes ;  then  add  a  quart  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1),  and 
ten  tablespoonfals  of  consomme  (No.  134),  reduce  it  until 
rather  thick ;  then  add  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  mush- 
rooms, boil  it  another  minute,  then  pass  it  through  a  tam- 
mie  into  a  clean  stewpan ;  when  just  ready  to  serve,  boil  it 
up,  season  it  with  a  little  salt,  cayenne  pepper,  and  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  sugar,  then  stir  in  one  ounce  of  anchovy 
butter  (No.  78),  but  do  not  let  it  boil  after.  Serve  with  any 
description  as  directed. 

No.  64.  Satcce  a  la  Beyrout, 
Put  a  tablespoonfid  of  chopped  onions  into  a  stewpan 


8AU0M.  29 

with  one  of  Chili  vinegar  and  one  of  common  vinegar, 
eighteen  spoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  four  of  brown  gravy, 
two  of  mushroom  catsup,  and  two  of  Harvey  sauce ;  then 
place  it  over  the  fire,  keep  stirring  until  boiling,  then  place 
it  at  the  comer  of  the  stove,  let  it  simmer  five  minutes,  skim 
it  well,  then  place  it  again  over  the  fire  and  stir  until  it  ad- 
heres to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  when  add  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  essence  of  anchovies,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar ; 
it  is  then  ready  to  serve. 

The  above  is  a  fish  sauce,  but  may  be  used  for  meat  or 
poultiy  by  substituting  white  sauce  (No.  7)  for  melted  butter. 
(No.  71). 

No.  65.  Sauce  a  F essence  de  Poissons. 

Have  the  bones  of  two  whitings  or  soles,  (having  used  the 
fillets),  break  them  into  pieces  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan 
with  an  onion  in  sUces,  a  good  bunch  of  parsley,  a  Uttle 
thyme,  bay-leaf,  two  cloves,  one  glass  of  sherry,  and  ten  of 
white  broth ;  place  it  over  the  fire  and  let  it  reduce  until  the 
bottom  of  the  stewpan  is  covered  with  a  Ught  glaze ;  then 
add  eighteen  tablespoonfals  of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  and  ten 
of  white  broth,  let  it  boil  twenty  minutes,  then  pass  it 
through  a  tammie  into  another  stewpan,  boil  it  again,  and 
finish  with  half  a  gill  of  cream  and  a  httle  pepper  and  salt 
if  required. 

No.  66.  Sauce  a  la  HoUandaise. 

Put  two  yolks  of  eggs  in  the  bottom  of  a  stewpan  with 
the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  a  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
a  httle  white  pepper,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  firesh 
butter ;  place  the  stewpan  over  a  moderate  fire,  and  com- 
mence stirring  it  with  a  wooden  spoon,  (taking  it  off  the 
^  now  and  then  when  getting  too  hot),  until  the  butter  be- 
comes melted  and  thickens  with  the  eggs,  (great  care  must 


80  SATJCBS. 

be  exerciisecl,  for  if  it  should  become  too  hot  the  eggs  would 
curdle  and  rrader  the  sauce  useless) ;  then  add  a  pint  of 
melted  butter,  stir  it  togeth^  over  the  fire,  but  do  not  let 
it  boil;  pass  it  through  a  tammie  into  another  stewpan. 
When  wanted  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  quite  hot. 

No.  67.   Caper  Sauce, 

Put  twelve  tablespoonfiils  of  melted  butter  into  a  stew* 
pan,  place  it  upon  the  fire,  and  when  upon  the  point  (^ 
boiling,  add  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter  and  three  table- 
spoonfuk  of  capers;  shake  the  stewpan  round  over  the 
fire  until  the  butter  is  melted,  add  a  little  pepper  and  salt, 
and  serve  where  directed. 

68.  Lobster  Sauce. 

Put  twelve  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter  into  a  stew* 
pan,  cut  a  middling  sized  hen  lobster  into  dice,  make  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  lobster  butter  with  the  spawn,  as 
directed  (No.  77);  when  the  melted  butter  is  upon  the 
point  of  boiling,  add  the  lobster  butter,  stir  the  sauce  round 
over  the  fire,  until  the  butter  is  melted ;  season  with  a  little 
essence  of  anchovy,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon  and  a  quarter 
of  a  saltspoonful  of  cayenne,  pass  it  through  a  tammie  iuto 
another  stewpan,  than  add  the  flesh  of  the  lobster.  When 
hot,  it  is  ready  to  serve  where  directed.  This  sauce  must 
be  quite  red,  if  no  red  in  the  lobster  use  live  spawn. 

No.  69.  Oyster  Sauce. 

Mix  three  ounces  of  butter  in  a  stewpan  with  two  ounces 
of  flour;  then  blanch  and  beard  three  dozen  oysters,  as 
directed  (No.  342) ;  put  the  oysters  into  another  stewpan, 
and  the  beards  and  liquor  to  the  other  ingredients,  with  a 
pint  and  a  half  of  milk,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  cayenne  pepper,  two  cloves,  half  a  Uade  of 


SAUCE8.  81 

mace,  and  six  peppercorns;  place  it  over  the  fire,  keep 
stirring,  and  boil  it  ten  miniites ;  then  add  a  tablespoonfid 
of  essence  of  anchovies,  and  one  of  Harvey  sauce ;  then  pass 
it  through  a  tanimie  over  the  oysters ;  make  the  whole  very 
hot,  without'  boiling,  when  ready  to  serve. 

Another  method. 

Put  a  pint  and  a  half  of  white  sauce  (No.  7,)  into  a  stew- 
pan,  with  the  juice  and  beards  of  three  dozen  oysters,  as 
above,  six  peppercorns,  two  cloves,  half  a  blade  of  mace ; 
boil  it  ten  minutes,  then  add  a  spoonful  of  essence  of  an- 
chovies, a  Ettle  cayenne  pepper,  and  salt  if  required ;  pass  it 
through  a  tammie  over  the  oysters,  as  before. 

A  plainer  method. 

Blanch  three  dozen  oysters,  take  away  their  beards,  and 
put  them,  with  their  Uquor,  into  a  stewpan,  witii  half  a 
blade  of  mace,  two  cloves,  and  six  pepp^-ooms ;  jdaoe  them 
over  the  fire,  and  directly  they  boil  add  half  an  ounce  of 
butter,  with  which  you  have  mixed  half  a  tablespoonful 
of  flour ;  shake  the  stewpan  round  over  the  fire  two  or  three 
minutes,  then  add  a  little  essence  of  anchovies ;  tiake  out 
the  spices,  and  serve ;  this  sauce  is  fiill  of  flavour,  and  very 
simple.     If  too  thick  add  a  little  malk. 

No.  70.  Muscle  Sauce. 

Proceed  exactly  the  same  as  for  oyster  sauce,  only  using 
the  liquor  of  muscle  (see  No.  841),  but  not  the  beards^ 
instead  of  oydters,  and  serving  muscle  in  the  sauce ;  four 
dozen  would  be  about  the  number  required. 

No.  71.  Melted  Butter. 

Mix  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  in  »  stewpan,  with 
two  taJblespoonfnls  of  floor,  without  puttaiag  it  upon  the 


82  SAUCES. 

fire;  then  add  a  pint  and  a  half  of  cold  water,  place  it 
upon  the  fire,  keep  stirring  until  upon  the  point  of  boiling, 
but  do  not  let  it  boil;  season  with  a  tablespoonfiil  of 
vinegar,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  the  eighth  of  one  of 
pepper ;  pass  it  through  a  tammie  into  a  basin,  then  add 
two  ounces  more  of  fresh  butter;  keep  stirring  till  the 
butter  is  melted ;  it  is  then  ready  for  use  where  required. 

No.  72.  Anchovy  Sauce, 

Make  the  same  quantity  of  melted  butter  as  directed  in 
the  last,  but  finish  it  mth  four  good  tablespoonfuls  of  es- 
sence of  anchovies ;  there  should  be  little  or  no  salt  in  the 

melted  butter. 

No.  73.  Shrimp  Sauce, 

Make  the  melted  butter  as  for  the  last,  but  finish  with 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  the  essence  of  shrimps,  and  serve 
half  a  pint  of  picked  shrimps  in  the  boat  with  it.  If  no 
essence  of  shrimps,  the  anchovy  sauce  may  be  served  Mith 
shrimps  in  it  as  a  substitute. 

No.  74.  Demi  Maitre  d'JSdtel  Sauce. 

Put  half  the  above  quantity  of  melted  butter  in  a  stew- 
pan,  and  when  upon  the  point  of  boiling  stir  in  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  maitre  d'hotel  butter  (No.  79) ;  directly  it  melts 
serve,  but  do  not  let  it  boil. 

No.  7B.  Fennel  Sauce. 

This  is  a  sauce  principally  used  for  boiled  mackerel; 

make  the  same  quantity  of  melted  butter  as  ia  the  last,  to 

which  add  a  good  tablespoonful  of  chopped  fennel ;  serve  it 

in  a  boat. 

No.  76.  Eyff  Sauce. 

Generally  served  with  salt  fish  or  a  Dublin-bay  haddock : 
boil  six  eggs  ten  minutes,  let  them  get  cold,  then  cut  them 


SAUCES.  33 

in  pieces  about  the  size  of  dice ;  have  eight  tablespoonfiils  of 
melted  butter  and  three  of  good  cream  in  a  stewpan,  season 
with  a  htde  pepper  and  salt,  boil  it  five  minutes,  then  add 
the  e^s ;  shake  the  stewpan  round  over  the  fire  until  the 
^gs  are  quite  hot,  then  add  two  pats  of  butter ;  shake  it 
round  until  the  butter  is  melted,  then  pour  it  into  a  boat, 
and  serve  very  hot. 

No.  77.  Lobster  Butter, 

Procure  a  full-sized  hen  lobster,  and  quite  fall  of  spawn, 
which  take  out  and  pound  well  in  a  mortar ;  then  add  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter,  mix  them  well  together, 
then  rub  it  through  a  hair-sieve,  and  put  it  on  a  plate 
upon  the  ice  or  in  a  cold  place  until  wanted. 

No.  78.  Jnchovy  Butter. 

Take  the  bones  from  ten  anchovies,  wash  the  fillets ;  dry 
them  upon  a  cloth,  and  pound  them  well  in  a  mortar ;  then 
add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter ;  mix  well  together, 
and  proceed  as  in  the  last. 

No.  79.  Maii^e  cTHdtel  Butter. 

Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter  upon  a  plate, 
with  two  good  tablespoonfols  of  chopped  parsley,  the  juice 
of  two  lemons,  half  a  teaspoonfdl  of  salt,  and  half  that 
quantity  of  white  pepper ;  mix  all  well  together,  and  put  in 
a  cool  place  till  required. 

80.  Bavigote  Butter, 

Proceed  as  in  the  last,  only  substituting  one  spoonful  of 
chopped  Tarragon,  and  one  of  chopped  chervils  for  the  two 
of  parsley,  and  adding  half  a  spoonful  of  Chili  vinegar. 


34 


SAUCES  AND  GARNITURES  OF  VEGETABLES. 


No.  81.  Puree  de  Chomo  de  BruxeUea. 

Trim  and  boil  about  thirty  heads  of  Brussel  sprouts, 
very  green,  in  two  quarts  of  water,  with  which  you  have 
put  a  quarter  of  a  handful  of  salt ;  when  done,  drain  them 
and  chop  them  very  fine ;  then  put  an  onion  in  a  stewpan, 
in  sUces,  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  three  sprigs  of  parsley, 
and  an  ounce  of  raw  ham ;  stir  them  ten  minutes  ov^  the 
fire,  then  add  the  chopped  Brussel  sprouts,  and  half  a 
tablespoonful  of  flour ;  mix  all  well  together,  then  add  half 
a  pint  of  white  veal  stock  (No.  7),  and  half  a  pint  of  milk ;  stir 
it  until  it  boils,  then  add  a  teaspoonfiil  of  powdered  sugar  \ 
rub  it  through  a  tammie,  and  serve  where  directed.  Season 
vdth  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  if  required.  It  must  not  be 
too  thick. 

No.  82.  Satice  aux  Choux  de  BruxeUea. 

Trim  about  thirty  small  Brussel  sprouts ;  have  ready  in  a 
stewpan  three  quarts  of  boihng  water,  into  which  you  have 
put  a  tablespoonful  of  salt ;  put  in  the  sprouts,  let  them  boil 
twenty  minutes,  then  press  them  with  your  finger ;  if  they 
are  soft  they  are  done,  but  be  careful  not  to  break  them ; 
lay  them  upon  a  sieve  to  drain,  then  put  ten  spoonfuls  of 
Bechamel  sauce  (No.  7),  into  a  stewpan,  with  six  of  boiled 
milk ;  let  it  reduce  a  few  minutes,  then  add  the  sprouts,  two 
ounces  of  &esh  butter,  a  salt-spoonful  of  salt,  half  a  one  of 
white  pepper,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  one  of  chopped 
parsley,  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon ;  keep  them  moving 
over  the  fire  until  the  butter  is  quite  melted,  and  serve 
where  directed. 


SAUCES.  35 

No.  83.  Anx  Haricots  verts. 

Cut  about  fifly  middling  sized  French  beans  into  dia- 
monds, and  boil  them  very  green  in  salt  and  water ;  when 
done,  drain  them  upon  a  sieve ;  then  put  ten  tablespoonfdls 
of  white  sauce  (No.  7)  in  a  stewpan,  with  two  of  white 
broth  (No.  133),  one  ounce  of  fresh  butter,  a  salt-spoonful 
of  salt,  half  a  one  of  white  pepper,  one  of  chopped  parsley, 
and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon ;  then  add  the  fVench  beans ; 
mix  all  well  tc^ther  without  breaking  the  beans;  when 
quite  hot,  stir  in  two  tablespoonfiils  of  liaison  (No.  119),  and 
serve. 

No.  84.  Petit  Pois  a  VAnglaise. 

Put  a  i»nt  of  young  peas,  boiled  very  green,  into  a  stew- 
pen,  with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  becluunel  sauce  (No.  7),  a 
quarter  of  an  ounce  of  sugar,  a  Utile  salt,  and  two  button 
onions,  with  parsl^,  tied  together ;  boil  them  ten  minutes ; 
add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  liaison  (No.  119),  stir  it  in  quickly, 
and  serve. 

No.  86.  Petit  Pois  au  Lard. 

Ptit  a  pint  of  well-boiled  peas  into  a  stewpan,  with  five  do. 
of  brown  sauce  (No.  1),  two  of  brown  gravy,  a  teaspoonful  of 
sugar,  two  button  onions,  and  a  bunch  of  paral^ ;  let  it  boil 
about  ten  minutes ;  have  ready  braised  about  a  pound  of 
lean  bacon,  cut  it  in  dice  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  square ; 
add  it  to  the  peas,  take  out  the  onions  and  parsley,  season 
with  an  ounce  of  butter,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar ; 
mix  well  together,  stew  twenty  minutes,  and  serve. 

No.  86.  Pwree  de  Pois  vert. 

Put  a  pint  of  raw  peas  into  a  stewpan,  with  six  button 
onions,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  an  ounce  of  lean  ham,  and  one  do. 


36  SAUCES. 

of  butter ;  cover  the  peas  with  cold  water,  mix  weD  together 
with  your  hands,  throw  all  the  water  away,  put  them  over 
a  quick  fire ;  when  quite  tender,  add  a  half  tablespoonf ul  of 
flour ;  mix  well,  pound  it  in  the  mortar,  put  it  back  in  the 
stewpan;  add  twelve  tablespoonfuls  of  broth  (No.  133), 
season  with  a  salt-spoon  of  salt,  do.  of  sugar,  rub  it  through 
a  tammie,  warm  again,  add  a  Uttle  cream  or  milk  to  give  it 
a  proper  thickness,  and  serve. 

No.  87.  J  la  Palestine. 

Peel  ten  Jerusalem  artichokes,  scoop  them  with  a  cutter 
the  size  of  a  small  marble,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with 
two  ounces  of  butter,  and  a  quarter  of  a  spoonful  of  sugar ; 
set  them  over  a  moderate  fire,  toss  them  over  until  they 
are  covered  with  a  glaze,  then  add  eighteen  tablespoonfuls 
of  bechamel  sauce  (No.  7),  and  eight  do.  of  white  broth 
(No.  133) ;  boil  gently,  and  skim  well;  season  with  a  small 
quantity  of  salt ;  when  the  artichokes  are  quite  tender,  but 
not  broken,  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  liaison  (No.  119), 
stir  quickly,  and  serve. 

No.  88.  Palestine  a  la  Beurgeoise, 

Prepare  and  cut  the  artichokes  as  above ;  put  an  ounce 
of  butter,  and  a  quarter  do.  of  sugar  into  a  stewpan  with 
the  artichokes,  and  pass  them  over  a  moderate  fire,  until 
they  are  covered  with  a  white  glaze ;  then  add  half  a  table- 
spoonful  of  flour  (mix  it  well,)  and  twelve  do.  of  white  broth ; 
let  it  simmer  gently  until  they  are  quite  tender,  season  with 
a  little  salt  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  liaison  (No.  119),  stir 
it  in  quickly,  and  serve. 

No.  89.  Palestine  an  Maigre, 

Cut  the  artichokes  as  above  (No.  87),  pass  them  in  a 
stewpan  with  an  ounce  of  butter,  and  half  ditto  of  sugar,  over 


SAUCES.  37 

a  moderate  fire  until  they  are  covered  with  a  white  glaze ; 
then  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  and  sixteen  ditto  of  boiled 
milk ;  let  it  simmer  gently  until  the  artichokes  are  quite  ten- 
der, season  with  a  little  salt  and  white  pepper ;  to  finish  add 
an  ounce  of  firesh  butter,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  liason, 
stir  it  quickly  and  serve. 

If  you  have  not  a  round  scooper  any  shape  will  do ;  but 
round  is  preferable,  as  it  is  a  very  tender  vegetable,  and  they 
axe  not  so  liable  to  break. 

No.  90.  Puree  d^Artichaut 

Peel,  wash,  and  dry,  on  a  cloth,  ten  artichokes,  which  cut 
in  very  thin  slices,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  butter,  a  small  bunch  of  parsley,  one  bay- 
leaf,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  Uttle  white  pepper,  three 
quarters  of  a  teaspoonfiil  of  sugar,  and  two  ditto  of  broth ; 
cut  an  ounce  of  lean  ham  in  dice,  set  the  whole  over  a  slow 
fire,  let  it  simmer  gently  for  half  an  hour,  when  very  tender 
add  sixteen  tablespoonfuls  of  bechamel  sauce  (No.  7) ;  boil 
it  twenty  minutes,  pass  it  through  a  tammie,  into  a  clean 
stewpan,  and  before  serving  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
liaaon  (No.  119).     This  sauce  requires  to  be  rather  thick. 

No.  91.  Puree  a  la  Palestine  niaigre. 

Prepare  and  stew  the  artichokes  precisely  as  before ;  when 
quite  tender  add  one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  and  eighteen  of 
ditto  of  boiling  milk ;  let  it  boil  twenty  minutes,  rub  it 
through  a  tammie  into  a  clean  stewpan,  add  a  little  cream 
before  serving. 

No.  92.  Naveta  Fier^es. 

Peel  six  large  turnips,  scoop  them  the  size  of  a  marble,  put 
one  oimce  of  butter  into  a  stewpan  virith  a  quarter  of  an  ounce 
of  sugar,  and  the  turnips,  pass  them  over  a  moderate  fire 


38  SAUC£8. 

aboat  twenty  minutes,  toss  them  over,  when  covered  with  a 
white  glaze  add  ten  tablespoonfuls  of  bechamel  sauce,  and  four 
ditto  of  broth  (No.  133),  seasonwith  a  salt-spoonful  of  salt^ 
a  quarter  ditto  of  pepper,  finish  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
cream.     This  sauce  must  not  be  too  thin. 

No.  93.  Buyout  de  Navets  a  drun. 

Scoop  the  same  quantity  of  turnips  as  above  (No.  92), 
put  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  sugar  into  a  stewpan,  set  it  on 
the  fire  until  it  becomes  rather  brown,  then  add  an  ounce 
of  butter,  and  the  turnips,  pass  them  until  they  are  a  yellow 
brown ;  then  add  twelve  tablespoonfuls  of  brown  sauce  (No. 
1),  four  ditto  of  broth  (No.  133),  or  brown  gravy  (No.  135), 
and  a  bunch  of  parsl^,  with  one  bay-leaf ;  add  a  little  salt 
and  pepper,  skim  well  and  serve. 

No.  94.  Puree  de  Navets  a  blanc. 

Feel  and  cut  six  small  turnips  in  thin  slices,  put  them 
into  a  stewpan  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  a  quarter  of  a 
spoonful  of  white  sugar,  one  onion  minced,  and  a  bunch  of 
parsley ;  stir  them  over  a  moderate  fire  until  nearly  tender, 
add  eighteen  tablespoonfuls  of  bechamel  sauce  (No.  7),  let  it 
boil  twenty  minutes,  pass  it  through  a  tammie,  put  it  into  a 
clean  stewpan,  finish  vdth  four  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  and 
half  an  ounce  of  fresh  butter. 

No.  95.  Puree  de  Navets  a  brun. 

Put  half  an  ounce  of  sugar  into  a  stewpan ;  let  it  get 
rather  brown,  add  two  ounces  of  butter,  have  ready  peeled 
and  cut  in  thin  sUces  six  turnips,  add  them  to  the  butter 
and  sugar,  and  stir  them  about  until  quite  tender ;  then  add 
eighteen  tablespoonfuls  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1);  boil  it 
about  twenty  minutes,  rub  it  through  a  tammie,  put  it  into 


I 

I 

I 

f 


8AUC£S.  39 

a  clean  stewpan,  season  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  quarter 
ditto  of  pepper,  and  about  an  ounce  of  butter. 

Observe. — ^Never  let  a  puree  of  any  kind  remain  long  at 
the  side  of  the  fire,  as  it  gives  it  a  strong  and  unpleasant 
flavour ;  if  not  wanted  immediately  set  it  in  a  bain  marie. 

No.  96.  Sauce  ause  Chan-Jleurs. 

Take  two  boiled  cauliflowers,  cut  the  tops  o£P,  so  that  the 
flowers  win  fall  to  pieces  in  sprigs,  take  them  up  carefully, 
put  eighteen  tablespoonfuls  of  bechamel  sauce  (No.  7),  into 
a  stewpan  with  four  ditto  of  white  broth  (No.  133),  a  Uttle 
salt  and  white  pepper;  boil  it  about  ten  minutes,  then  add 
the  cauliflower  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  toss  them 
about  until  well  mixed,  and  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  haison 
(No.  119),  and  serve. 

No.  97.  Puree  de  Chou-Jleurs. 

Cut  off  the  flower  of  two  heads  of  cauliflower  well  boiled, 
put  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  onions  into  a  stewpan  with  a 
small  piece  of  butter,  pass  them  over  a  moderate  fire  about 
five  minutes,  then  put  the  cauliflower  in  and  mash  them 
with  a  wooden  spoon,  add  one  tablespoonfal  of  flour,  and 
ten  ditto  of  white  broth  (No.  133),  let  it  boil  about  fifteen 
minutes,  season  with  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  half  ditto  of 
salt,  rub  it  through  a  tammie  into  a  clean  stewpan,  add  a 
gill  of  good  cream  and  serve,  if  too  thick,  moisten  with  a 
httle  mflk. 

No.  98.  Macedoine  de  Legumes. 

Feel  four  very  red  carrots,  wash  them,  cut  them  with  a 
small  soooper  the  size  of  a  large  pea,  the  outside  or  red  part 
of  the  carrot  only ;  when  ready,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  of 
boiling  water,  let  them  simmer  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour, 
then  put  them  on  a  sieve  to  drain ;  peel  and  scoop  the  same 


^ 


40  8AUC£S. 

size  six  turnips,  and  twenty  button  onions,  put  a  teaspoon* 
ful  of  sugar  into  a  stewpan  with  an  ounce  of  butter,  and  the 
turnips  and  onions,  pass  them  over  a  moderate  fire  about 
five  minutes,  then  add  the  carrots,  set  them  again  over  the 
fire  until  they  are  covered  with  a  white  glaze,  add  ten  table- 
spoonfuls  of  white  broth  (No.  138),  let  them  boil  about 
ten  minutes,  take  off  all  the  butter  and  scum,  then  add  ten 
tablespoonfiils  of  bechamel  sauce  (No.  7),  let  it  reduce  until 
rather  thick,  season  with  a  Uttle  salt  if  required ;  and  five 
minutes  before  serving  add  three  tablespoonfiils  of  Haison 
(No.  119),  a  few  French  beans,  peas,  asparagus,  Brussels 
sprouts,  or  any  green  vegetable  in  season. 

No.  99.  Macedoine  de  Legumes^  brown. 

Prepare  the  vegetables  and  season  exactly  like  the  above, 
using  brown  sauce  instead  of  white,  and  omitting  the  liaison. 
The  two  last  sauces  require  to  be  reduced  until  the  sauce 
adheres  to  the  vegetables,  but  not  too  thick. 

No.  100.  Jardiniere. 

Feel  four  carrots,  cut  them  lengthwise  in  slices  a  quarter 
of  an  inch  thick,  have  ready  a  small  long  round  cutter,  cut 
as  many  pieces  as  possible  out  of  each  sUce,  boil  them  in 
water  a  quarter  of  an  hour ;  peel  and  cut  some  turnips 
exactly  the  same ;  peel  twenty  button  onions,  put  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  sugar  into  a  stewpan  with  an  ounce  of  butter 
and  the  turnips  and  onions ;  drain  the  carrots  on  a  sieve  and 
add  them ;  toss  the  whole  over  a  moderate  fire  about  ten 
minutes,  then  put  ten  tablespoonfuls  of  consomme  (No.  134), 
to  the  vegetables,  let  them  simmer  until  quite  tender,  reduce 
and  skim  them  well,  then  put  twelve  tablespoonfuls  of  brown 
sauce  (No.  l),into  another  stewpan  with  six  ditto  of  consonmie, 
reduce  until  rather  thick,  then  add  the  vegetables,  two 
spoonfuls  of  green  peas,  one  ditto  of  French  beans,  a  few 


SAUCES.  41 

small  pieces  of  cauliflower,  and  a  few  heads  of  asparagus ; 
let  the  whole  simiuer  twelve  or  thirteen  minutes;  season 
with  a  little  salt  and  sugar  if  required ;  just  before  serving 
put  in  an  ounce  of  butter,  toss  it  about  until  melted ;  a  bunch 
of  parsley,  with  a  bay-leaf,  is  a  great  addition  to  the  flavour 
if  stewed  with  them. 

No.  101.  Pointes  ct  Jdpergea  en  petits-poia. 

Get  some  &esh  sprue  grass,  cut  it  about  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  long,  the  green  part  only  where  it  will  break  off*,  have 
ready  a  stewpan  of  boiling  water  with  salt  in,  throw  in  the 
sprue  and  let  it  boil  very  fast  until  tender,  which  will  be  a 
quarter  of  an  hour,  or  according  to  the  size ;  then  put  them 
on  a  sieve  to  dram,  put  eight  tablespoonfiils  of  the  sprue  into 
a  stewpan  with  ten  ditto  of  bechamel  sauce  (No.  7),  a  Uttle 
consomme,  half  a  teaspoonfol  of  sugar,  a  Uttle  salt,  and  a 
small  quantity  of  chopped  parsley ;  let  it  simmer  five  minutes ; 
to  finish  add  a  pat  of  butter  and  two  tablespoonfiils  of  liaison 
(No.  119). 

No.  102.  Puree  d^A^perges, 

Put  twelve  spoonfuls  of  sprue  (boiled  as  No.  101), 
into  a  stewpan  with  two  ounces  of  butter ;  stir  it  over  a  mo« 
derate  fire  until  it  is  mashed,  then  add  half  a  tablespoonful 
of  flour,  mix  it  well,  add  eleven  spoonfuls  of  bechamel  sauce 
(No.  7),  and  ten  ditto  of  broth  (No.  135),  half  a  teaspoon- 
fiil  of  sugar,  a  quarter  ditto  of  salt,  let  it  boil  five  minutes, 
mb  it  through  a  tammie,  put  it  into  a  clean  stewpan ;  before 
serving  add  a  pat  of  butter.  When  wanted  warm  it  quickly 
or  it  will  torn  yellow ;  if  too  thick  moisten  with  a  little  milk. 

No.  103.  Concombres  a  blanc. 

Get  three  best  quaUty  fresh  cucumbers,  cut  them  in  pieces 
about  two  inches  long,  peel  each  separately,  then  cut  the 


42  SAUCES. 

outside  in  three  slices  (or  four,  if  large),  leaving  the  seeds 
in  one  piece  in  the  middle,  trim  off  all  the  edges  neatly ;  put 
half  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar  into  a  stewpan  with  an  ounce 
of  butter,  a  httle  chopped  eschalots,  and  the  cucumber,  pass 
them  over  a  moderate  fire  ten  minutes  without  breaking,  and 
keep  them  quite  white,  then  add  a  little  white  broth  (No.  183X 
just  enough  to  cover  them,  let  them  simmer  until  tender, 
then  lay  them,  with  a  colander  spoon,  on  a  sieve  to  drain  ; 
put  twelve  tablespoonfuls  of  bechamel  sauce  (No.  7)  into 
the  stewpan  with  six  of  white  broth,  skim  off  all  the  butter, 
let  it  reduce  until  rather  thick ;  season  it  with  a  quarter  ci 
a  teaspoonful of  salt,  a  little  pepper,  and  half  a  gill  of  cream; 
when  ready  to  serve  add  the  cucumbers. 

No.  104.  Concombres  a  brun. 

Prepare  and  stew  the  cucumbers  exactly  the  same,  only 
brown  them  slightly,  reducing  the  same  quantity  of  demi- 
glaoe  (No.  9)  instead  of  the  white  sauce. 

No,  105.  Puree  de  Concomdres, 

Cut  the  cucumbers  in  pieces  and  stew  them  as  above 
(No.  103),  put  all  the  trinmiings,  and  some  of  the  worst- 
shaped  pieces  into  a  stewpan  with  an  ounce  of  butt^  and 
half  a  spoonful  of  chopped  onions,  pass  them  over  a  moderate 
fire  twelve  minutes,  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  veal  stock 
(No.  7),  and  let  them  simmer  until  quite  tender;  then 
put  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  mix  it  well,  add  four  more 
of  stock,  and  six  ditto  of  bechamel  sauce  (No.  7),  season 
with  half  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  a  quarter  ditto  of  salt^ 
and  a  little  pepper,  rub  it  through  a  tammie.  When 
wanted,  warm  it  very  quickly,  and  add  half  a  gill  of  cream ; 
put  the  pieces  into  the  puree  and  serve ;  it  must  not  be  too 
thick. 


SAUCES.  4S 

No.  106.  Ilpinard  au  Jus. 

Pick  all  the  stalks  off  and  wash  the  spinach  veiy  dean  in 
several  waters,  have  ready  a  large  stewpan  of  boilbig  water, 
in  which  you  have  put  a  handfiil  of  salt,  put  in  the  spinach, 
and  let  it  boil  as  quickly  as  possible  about  twenty  minutes ; 
when  quite  tender  put  it  into  a  odander  and  press  the  water 
out  until  there  is  none  remaining,  then  chop  it  very  fine ; 
put  one  pound  of  spinach  into  a  stewpan  with  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  butter,  stir  it  with  a  wooden  spoon  over  a  mo- 
derate fire  until  the  butter  is  melted ;  then  add  a  Uttle  flour, 
eight  tablespoonfuls  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1),  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  half  ditto  of  sugar,  a  little  white  pepper, 
and  veiy  small  quantity  of  grated  nutmeg ;  a  Uttle  glaze  may 
be  added ;  finish  with  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter. 

No.  107.  Blanched  Mushrooms, 

Get  a  pottle  of  fresh  mushrooms,  cut  off  the  dirt  and  like- 
wise the  heads  (reserviag  the  stalk  for  chopping),  wash  the 
heads  in  a  basin  of  clean  water,  take  them  out  and  drain  in 
a  sieve ;  put  into  a  stewpan  two  wine-glasses  of  cold  water, 
one  ounce  of  butter,  the  juice  of  half  a  good  lemon,  and  a 
little  salt ;  turn  or  peel  each  head  neatly,  and  put  them  into 
the  stewpan  immediately,  or  they  will  turn  black ;  set  your 
stewpan  on  a  brisk  fire,  let  them  boil  quickly  five  minutes, 
put  them  into  a  basin  ready  for  use ;  cliop  the  stalks  and 
peel  very  fine,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  the  liquor  the  mushrooms  have  been  boiled  in ; 
let  them  simmer  three  minutes,  put  them  into  a  jar,  and  use 
where  indicated. 

Observe. — ^Turning  or  peeling  mushrooms  is  an  art  that 
practice  alone  can  attain ;  if  they  are  very  fresh  and  white 
wash  them  quickly,  and  wipe  them  on  a  cloth,  throw  them 
into  the  liquid  above  mentioned. 


44  SAUCES. 

No.  108.  Puree  d' Oseille, 

Put  into  a  stewpan  four  good  handfuls  of  sorrel  (after 
being  well  washed,)  with  a  small  piece  of  butter,  put  on  the 
cover  and  set  it  over  a  moderate  fire  without  water,  until 
melted ;  then  put  it  on  a  sieve,  and  rub  it  all  through ;  put  half 
a  tablespoonful  of  very  fine  chopped  onions,  and  two  ounces 
of  butter  into  a  stev^an,  pass  them  over  a  quick  fire  two  or 
three  minutes,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  mix  well  together, 
add  the  sorrel  and  ten  tablespoonfuk  of  broth  (No.  138),  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  a  little  salt  and  white  pepper ;  let  it 
boil  fifteen  minutes,  stir  in  two  yolks  of  eggs  quickly,  and 
it  is  ready  to  serve.  Demi-glace  (No.  9)  is  very  good  instead 
of  broth. 

No.  109.  Boffout  anxjeunea  Bacines. 

Peel  very  thin  four  carrots  and  four  turnips,  cut  them  flat 
the  thickness  of  an  inch,  take  a  long  cutter  about  three  lines 
diameter,  cut  as  many  as  possible,  blanch  the  carrots  in 
boiling  water  five  minutes,  then  put  them  on  a  sieve  to 
drain ;  put  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar  in  a  stewpan,  set  it  on 
the  fire  until  it  gets  rather  brown,  then  put  in  an  ounce  of 
butter,  and  the  turnips,  toss  them  over  the  fire  until  covered 
with  a  brown  glaze,  add  the  carrots,  and  eighteen  table- 
spoonfds  of  demi-glace  (No.  9) ;  let  it  boil  at  the  comer  of 
the  stove  until  the'^vegetables  are  quite  tender,  then  take 
them  out  of  the  sauce  with  a  spoon,  and  lay  them  on  a  clean 
sieve ;  reduce  the  sauce  until  rather  thick,  season  with  a  little 
pepper,  pass  it  through  a  tammie  into  a  clean  stewpan,  add 
the  vegetables  carefuUy,  and  serve  very  hot. 

No.  110.  Bagout  de  petits  Oij/nons. 

Peel  carefully  fifty  young  onions,  without  breaking  them, 
put  half  an  ounce  of  sugar  into  a  stewpan,  set  it  on  the  fire  until 


SAUCES.  45 

it  gets  rather  brown,  add  two  ounces  of  butter  and  the 
onions,  toss  them  over  the  fire  until  forming  a  glaze ;  then 
add  fifteen  tablespoonfdls  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1),  and  eight 
of  consomme  (No.  184) ;  let  them  simmer  until  tender,  skim 
well,  season  with  a  small  quantity  of  salt  and  pepper,  and 
use  where  indicated ;  a  little  piece  of  glaze  may  be  added. 

No.  111.  Raff  outs  depetita  Oiffnons  a  blanc. 

Peel  the  same  quantity  of  onions  as  above,  put  half  an 
ounce  of  sugar  with  two  ounces  of  butter  into  a  stewpan, 
and  the  onions,  toss  them  over  the  fire  twenty  minutes,  then 
add  sixteen  tablespoonfuls  of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  and  eight 
of  white  broth,  let  them  sinmier  until  quite  tender ;  put  in  a 
bunch  of  parsley,  season  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and 
finish  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  liaison  (No.  119). 

No.  112.   Garniture  de  fond  d' Jrtichaut8. 

Boil  six  artichokes  in  water  and  salt  until  quite  tender, 
take  the  leaves  off*  and  trim  the  bottom  until  all  the  hard 
part  is  off  and  the  artichoke  has  a  round  appearance ;  cut 
each  in  four  pieces,  put  them  in  a  good  demi-glace  (No.  0), 
rather  thick,  for  ten  minutes ;  add  a  httle  sugar,  two  pats  of 
butter,  and  serve. 

1^0,  118.  Garniture  de  Haricot  blanc  nouveau. 

Put  half  apint  of  white  haricot  intoastewpan  with  a  pint 
of  cold  water,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  an  ounce  of 
hutter ;  let  it  simmer  gently  about  one  hour,  or  until  quite 
tender,  then  put  them  on  a  sieve  to  drain ;  have  ready  a 
clean  stewpan,  put  in  the  haricot  with  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  bechamel  sauce  (No.  7),  a  UtUe  chopped  parsley,  and  salt, 
three  pats  of  butter,  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  mix  well 
blether  and  serve  where  indicated. 


46  SAUCB8. 

No.  114.  Gro8  Oifffions  farcis. 

Peel  twelve  large  onions,  cut  a  piece  ofl  at  the  top  and 
bottom  to  give  them  a  flat  appearance,  blanch  them  in  four 
quarts  of  boiUng  water  twenty  minutes,  then  lay  them  on  a 
cloth  to  dry ;  take  the  middle  out  of  each  onion,  and  fill  them 
with  forcemeat  (No.  120),  (with  a  little  chopped  eschalot, 
parsley,  and  mushroom,  mixed  in  it),  and  put  them  in  a 
saute  pan  well  buttered,  cover  them  with  white  broth  (No. 
133),  let  them  simmer  over  a  slow  fire  until  covered  with  a 
glaze,  and  tender ;  turn  them  over  and  serve  where  required. 

No.  115.  Stewed  Cabbage  Letttice. 

Get  twelve  cabbage  lettuces,  as  hard  and  full  as  possible ; 
take  off  the  outside  leaves  and  wash  them  well ;  put  them 
into  a  stewpan  with  four  quarts  of  boiling  water,  and  let 
them  boU  about  twelve  minutes, — ^this  process  is  to  take  the 
bitterness  ofi^, — ^lay  them  on  a  doth  to  dry,  cut  each  lettuce 
open  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  close  them  again, 
"ind  tie  them  separately  with  a  string,  put  a  few  cloves  in  an 
onion,  put  it  in  a  stewpan  with  a  few  vegetables  of  all  kinds, 
a  bunch  of  parsley,  and  a  few  shoes  of  fat  bacon  on  the  top, 
lay  the  lettuce  in  and  cover  with  some  very  good  veal  stock 
(No.  7) ;  put  them  over  a  slow  fire  about  an  hour,  take 
them  carefully  out  and  cut  the  string,  lay  the  heart  upwards, 
dress  them  on  a  dish  to  forpa  a  star,  or  if  they  are  smaU  do 
not  cut  them  open.     Use  for  garniture  where  directed. 

No.  116.  Chou  braise  and  Chou-croute. 

Cut  two  large  savoy  cabbages  in  quarters,  which  trim  and 
wash  weU,  then  blanch  them  twenty  minutes  in  boiling 
water,  then  lay  them  upon  a  cloth,  season  them  well,  and 
stew  them  as  directed  in  the  last,  use  where  indicated. 

ChoU'Croute,    Take  throe  or  four  pounds,  not  too  sour. 


SAUCES.  47 

and  put  it  into  a  stewpan,  with  some  slices  of  fiit  baoon»  mx 
onions  cut  in  halves,  three  cloves,  a  blade  of  mace,  half  a 
carrot,  half  a  tnmip,  four  bay-leaves,  and  a  few  sprigs  of 
thyme  and  parsley  (laying  the  vegetables  at  the  bottom  and 
the  chou-crout  over  them,  which  cover  with  fat  bacon;) 
add  a  pint  and  a  half  of  good  stock,  and  stew  it  gently  for 
two  botirs ;  when  ready  to  serve  press  them  at  the  rim  of  the 
stewpan  with  a  colander  spoon,  and  ponr  off  as  much  of  the 
grease  as  possible,  it  is  then  ready  for  use  where  directed. 
Gbofu-croote  is  generally  sufficiently  seasoned  in  the  barrel, 
but  it  may  perhaps  require  a  little  mor^  pepper  and  salt. 

No.  117.  Stewed  Celery  far  Garniture  and  Celery  Sauce. 

Procure  twelve  very  fine  heads  of  red  celery,  take  off  the 
loose  branches,  and  cut  the  celery  into  heads  five  inches 
in  length,  blanch  them  twenty  minutes  in  a  stewpan  of  boil- 
ing water,  then  put  them  upon  a  sieve  to  drain,  stew  them 
precisely  as  directed  for  the  lettuce  (No.  116) ;  but  before 
stewing  if  the  heads  are  too  large  spUt  them  in  halves ;  use 
where  directed.  To  make  celay  sauce,  or  puree  of  celery, 
blanch  twelve  heads  of  fine  white  celery  in  boiling  water 
untQ  tender,  then  drain  them  upon  a  sieve,  cut  off  the  roots, 
chop,  and  put  the  celery  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  butter,  stir  it  five  minutes  over  a  fire,  then  stir 
in  one  ounce  of  flour,  add  a  pint  of  milk  and  half  a  pint 
of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  boil  altogether  ten  minutes,  season 
with  a  teaspoonfnl  of  salt,  a  quarter  ditto  of  pepper,  and  a 
whole  one  of  powdered  sugar ;  then  pass  it  through  a  tam- 
mie,  put  it  into  another  stewpan,  and  make  it  hot  when 
ready  to  serve. 

No.  118.  Choux-Jleurs  for  Garnitures. 

Take  four  heads  of  cauliflower,  cut  each  in  four  pieces, 
tiimming  the  stalks  to  give  them  a  neat  appearance ;  put  half 


48  APPENDIX  TO  THE  SAUCES. 

a  gallon  of  water  into  a  stewpan,  with  two  ouiices  of  butter, 
and  a  tablespoonful  of  salt,  when  boiling,  put  in  the  cauli- 
flowers to  simmer  about  twenty  minutes ;  when  done,  let 
them  remain  in  their  stock  untQ  wanted. 

No.  119.   Chicoree,  or  Endive  Sauce. 

Well  wash  six  heads  of  very  white  endive,  blanch  them  in 
boiling  water  until  tender,  then  drain  them  upon  a  sieve, 
after  which  chop  them  very  fine,  then  put  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  butter  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  tablespoonfol  of  flour, 
mix  well  together,  then  add  the  endive,  ten  spoonfuls 
of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  a  piece  of  white  glaze  the  size  of  a 
walnut,  a  little  nutmeg,  salt,  and  sugar ;  place  it  upon  the 
fire,  and  when  quite  hot  finish  with  half  a  giU  of  cream,  and 
use  where  directed. 

[Idaison.  Break  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  in  a  basin,  witii 
which  mix  eight  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  or  six  of  milk,  pass 
it  through  a  tammie  and  use  where  directed.] 


APPENDIX  TO  THE  SAUCES. 

No.  120.  Forcemeat  of  Veal. 

Take  a  pound  and  a  half  of  lean  veal,  scrape,  pound,  and 
pass  it  through  a  fine  wire  sieve,  when  passed  there  should 
be  one  pound  of  meat ;  then  take  one  pound  of  beef  suet, 
which  shred  and  chop  very  fine,  put  it  into  a  mortar  and 
pound  it  well,  then  add  six  ounces  of  panade  (No.  125), 
with  the  suet,  pound  them  well  together ;  then  add  the  veal, 
season  with  a  Uttle  pepper,  salt,  and  a  very  little  grated  nut- 
meg, mix  the  whole  well  together ;  then  add  three  eggs  by 
degrees,  then  the  yolks  of  three  more  eggs  when  well  mixed, 
whisk  the  whites  of  the  three  eggs  to  a  very  stiff  fix>th,  add 


APPENDIX  TO  THE  SAUCES.  49 

to  the  forcemeat,  mix  them  well  in,  and  it  is  ready  to  use 
where  directed.  To  form  this  or  the  following  forcemeats 
into  large  quenelles,  have  two  silver  tablespoons,  fiU  one  of 
them  with  the  forcemeat,  dip  your  knife  in  hot  water  with 
which  smooth  it  over,  then  dip  the  other  spoon  into  boiling 
water,  and  with  it  remove  the  forcemeat  from  the  first  spoon 
and  slip  it  from  that  into  a  buttered  saute  pan,  proceeding 
thus  until  you  have  as  many  as  you  require ;  then  cover 
them  with  some  second  stock,  and  boil  them  about  ten 
minutes,  or  until  firm,  and  they,  are  ready  for  use.  Small 
quenelles  are  made  in  the  same  manner,  only  using  teaspoons 
instead  of  tablespoons. 

No.  121.  Forcemeat  of  Babbits, 

Take  the  flesh  of  one  or  two  young  rabbits,  according  to 
the  size,  well  pound  and  pass  it  through  a  wire  sieve ;  then 
have  ready  boiled  and  cold  a  good  veal  udder,  skin  and 
pound  it  well,  to  a  pound  of  the  udder  add  six  ounces  of 
panada  (No.  125),  and  one  pound  of  the  flesh  of  the  rab- 
bits ;  mix  the  same  as  the  last,  adding  an  eschalot  finely  chop* 
ped,  to  the  seasoning,  using  three  whole  and  three  yolks  of 
eggs,  but  omitting  the  whisked  whites. 

No.  122.  Forcemeat  of  Fowl. 

The  best  forcemeat  is  made  entirely  from  the  breasts  of 
fowls,  but  should  you  have  no  use  for  the  other  parts  the 
whole  may  be  used.  Take  the  flesh  from  your  fowl  as  much 
as  you  require,  pound  it  well  and  pass  it  through  a  fine  wire 
sieve,  form  the  flesh  into  a  ball,  then  have  a  piece  of  panada 
(No.  125),  half  the  size  of  the  ball  of  meat,  scrape  some  fat 
bacon,  one  ounce,  in  proportion  to  the  pound  of  meat,  and 
two  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  put  the  butter,  bacon,  and  pa- 
nada, into  the  mortar  together,  pound  them  well,  then  add 
the  meat,  mix  all  well  together,  season  Ughtly,  and  add  four 
whole  eggs,  mixing  them  one  at  a  time,  then  drop  a  piece  of 

4 


50  APPENDIX  TO  THE  SAUCES. 

the  forcemeat  into  a  little  boiling  stock,  to  poach ;  if  too 
tender,  add  the  yolks  of  one  or  even  two  more  ^gs ;  but  if, 
on  the  contrary,  it  should  be  too  firm,  a  little  white  sauce 
(No.  7),  added  cold  will  rectify  it ;  it  is  then  ready  for  use. 
In  giving  the  last  three  receipts  I  have  introduced  a  dif- 
ferent method  for  each  description  of  meat,  although  the  same 
meat  might  be  made  into  forcemeat  by  either  process ;  for 
myself  I  give  the  preference  to  the  former  as  directed  for  veal. 

No.  123.  Forcemeat  of  Game. 

Proceed  as  in  the  last,  only  substituting  the  flesh  of  one 
or  two  birds  for  the  fowl  there  directed. 

No.  124.  Forcemeat  of  JFAitinfis, 

Take  the  fillets  of  three  whitings,  take  off  all  the  skin  and 

pound  them  weU,  then  take  them  from  the  mortar,  and  form 

them  into  a  ball,  have  a  piece  of  panada  (No.  125)  one  third 
the  size  of  the  ball,  put  the  panada  into  the  mortar,  pound  it 

well,  then  add  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  which  mix  well  with 
the  panada,  then  add  the  fish,  season  with  pepper,  salt,  and  a 
little  grated  nutmeg ;  mix  all  well  together,  then  add  by  de- 
grees three  whole  eggs  and  the  yolks  of  two,  try  it  in  a  little 
boiling  water  as  directed  for  the  forcemeat  of  fowl  (No.  122), 
but  if  too  firm  use  a  little  melted  butter,  as  these  are  served  ge- 
nerally as  a  meagre  dish  with  a  fish  sauce,  in  Catholic  families. 

No.  125.  Panada /or  forcemeats. 

Put  two  thirds  of  half  a  pint  of  water  into  a  stewpan 
holding  a  quart  with  nearly  an  ounce  of  butter,  when  boil- 
ing, stir  in  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  flour;  keep  it  moving 
over  the  fixe  until  it  forms  a  smooth  and  toughish  paste,  take 
it  out  of  the  stewpan  and  when  cold  use  it  where  directed. 

No.  126.  Force7neat  of  Cod! a  Liver, 
Chop  half  a  pound  of  cod's  liver,  with  which  mix  a  few 


r 


APPENDIX  TO  THB  SAUCES.  51 

bread  crumbs  and  the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  season  with  a 
little  pepper,  salt,  and  chopped  parsley,  form  it  into  que- 
nelles as  No.  120,  which  use  where  directed. 

No.  127.  Veal  Stuffmg. 

Chop  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  beef  suet  very  fine, 
whicli  put  into  a  basin  with  six  ounces  of  bread  crumbs,  a 
little  chopped  parsley,  thyme,  and  marjoram,  with  a  bay-leaf 
mixed,  when  chopped,  being  sufficient  to  fill  three  large 
tablespoons ;  amdgamate  the  whole  with  the  yolks  of  three 
and  three  whole  e^s ;  this  is  hkewise  used  to  stuff  baked 
fish  or  turkeys  as  well  as  veal. 

No.  128.  To  prepare  Cockscombs. 

If  you  should  have  them  in  the  rough  as  taken  from  the 
fowls,  put  them  in  lukewarm  water  for  three  hours,  then 
have  some  water  boiling  in  a  stewpan,  into  which  throw 
them  for  one  minute,  then  take  them  out,  put  them  upon  a 
rubber  with  a  handful  of  salt,  and  rub  them  well  until  all 
the  skin  comes  off,  then  put  them  into  a  basin  of  cold  water 
for  two  or  three  hours,  until  they  become  quite  white ;  by 
cutting  off  the  tips  of  each  they  will  disgorge  much  better ; 
then  (if  about  a  pound  of  them)  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  an  onion  in  slices,  a  little 
pepper  and  salt,  place  them  over  a  fire  one  minute,  then  add 
the  juice  of  a  lemon ;  stew  them  gently  until  quite  tender, 
put  them  by  in  a  basin  and  use  where  directed. 

No.  129.  To  doil  Bice. 

Wash  well  in  two  separate  waters  a  pound  of  the  best 
Carolina  rice ;  then  have  half  a  gallon  of  water  boiling  in  a 
stewpan,  into  which  throw  your  rice;  boil  it  until  about 
three  parts  done,  then  drain  it  upon  a  sieve,  butter  the  interior 
of  a  stewpan  in  which  put  your  rice,  place  the  lid  on  tight 
and  put  it  in  a  warm  oven  upon  a  trivet  until  the  rice  is 


52  APPENDIX  TO  THE  SAUCES. 

perfectly  tender ;  serve  it  separate  with  currie  or  any  other 
dish  where  directed.  Prepared  thus,  every  grain  will  be  se- 
parate and  quite  white. 

No.  130.  To  blanch  Maccaroni, 

Have  half  a  gallon  of  water  in  a  stewpan  in  which  put  two 
ounces  of  butter  and  an  ounce  of  salt ;  when  boiling  throw 
in  a  pound  of  maccaroni,  which  boil  until  tender,  being  care- 
ful that  it  is  not  too  much  done,  the  time  of  boiling  depends 
principally  upon  the  quaUty,  the  Genoa  maccaroni  taking 
the  longest  time,  and  the  Neapohtan  the  shortest,  which  last 
if  too  much  done  will  fall  in  puree. 

No.  131.   Croquettes  de  Pomme  de  Terre. 

Roast  twelve  fine  potatoes ;  when  done,  take  out  the  in- 
terior, which  form  into  a  ball ;  when  cold  put  them  into  a 
mortar  with  a  piece  of  butter  half  the  size  of  the  ball ;  pound 
them  well  together,  season  vnth  a  little  salt,  pepper,  chopped 
eschalots,  chopped  parsley,  and  grated  nutmeg,  mix  them  with 
the  yolks  of  six  and  two  whole  eggs ;  then  form  them  into 
croquettes  about  the  size  and  shape  of  a  large  quenelle  egg, 
and  bread-crumb  them  twice  over,  and  firy  them  to  a  light 
brown  colour  in  a  stewpan  of  hot  lard,  and  serve  as  gami- 
tiffe  where  required. 

No.  132.  Glaze, 

Make  a  good  stock  of  veal  or  beef  as  directed  for  con- 
somme (No.  1 34),  put  the  first  and  second  stocks  together 
in  a  large  stewpan,  the  clearer  the  stock  the  better ;  reduce 
it  by  boiling  it  fast,  and  when  becomhig  rather  thick  pour  it 
into  a  smaller  stewpan,  stir  it  over  a  sharp  fire  imtil  it  has 
reduced  to  a  proper  consistency ;  use  it  where  required.  It 
may  be  put  by  in  a  bladder  and  kept  a  long  time.  Veal  at 
all  times  makes  the  best  glaze,  but  any  kind  of  meat,  game, 
or  poultry,  will  produce  more  or  less. 


58 


P0TAQE8  OR  SOUPS. 


No.  133.  Clear  light  Broth,  or  first  Stock. 

Cut   up  sixteen  pounds  of  the  trimmings  of  veal,  beef, 
lamb,  or  mutton,  any  kind  of  meat  will  do  for  this  stock,  as 
it  is  entirely  used  for  filling  up  other  stocks,  but  it  is  only 
necessary  to  be  made  when  you  have  a  dinner  party  ;  cut  up 
the  meat  with  the  bones,  rub  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter 
over  the  bottom  of  a  large  stev^rpan,  into  which  put  the 
meat,  with  six  large  onions,  two  carrots,  two  turnips,  and 
two  heads  of  celeiy ;  add  a  quart  of  water,  then  place  the 
stewpan  over  a  sharp  fire,  cover  it,  and  let  it  remain  until 
the  bottom  of  the  stewpan  is  covered  with  a  light  white 
glaze,  stirring  it  occasionally  to  prevent  its  burning,  then 
fill  it  up  with  seven  gallons  of  cold  water,  when  it  boils 
place  it  at  the  comer,  then  add  a  good  bunch  of  parsley, 
thyme,  and  bay -leaves ;  let  it  simmer  three  hours,  keeping 
it  well  skimmed,  pass  it  through  a  cloth  and  use  it  where 
required.    1  have  here  omitted  salt,  for  this  stock  is  only 
required  to  fill  up  others,  which  correctly  describe  their  pro- 
portions of  seasoning. 

No.  134.   Conso7nme,  or  clear  Soup. 

This  may  be  made  of  all  beef  or  all  veal,  but  an  equal 
quantity  of  each  is  the  best.  Cut  up  two  knuckles  of  veal 
and  a  leg  of  beef  with  the  bones,  the  whole  being  about 
sixteen  pounds ;  rub  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  over  the 
bottom  of  a  large  stewpan,  into  which  put  the  meat,  with 
one  pound  of  lean  ham,  four  onions,  four  turnips,  two  mid- 
dling-sized carrots,  six  cloves,  one  blade  of  mace,  and  a  pint 
of  water ;  set  it  over  a  brisk  fire,  stirring  it  round  occasion- 


54  POTAOES. 

ally  until  the  bottom  is  covered  with  a  clear  light  glaze,  then 
fill  it  up  with  four  gallons  of  light  broth  (No.  133),  or 
water;  when  boiling  place  it  at  the  comer  of  the  stove, 
skim  it  well,  add  a  good  bunch  of  parsley,  three  sprigs 
of  thyme,  and  two  bay-leaves,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  salt, 
two  leeks,  and  two  heads  of  celery ;  let  it  simmer  three 
hours,  skim  off  all  the  fat,  then  pass  it  through  a  cloth  into 
a  basin,  give  it  the  colour  of  light  brown  sherry  with  some 
brown  gravy  (No.  135),  if  sufficiently  clear,  which  it  will 
be  if  properly  attended  to.  Some  soups  require  to  be  l^hter 
and  some  browner  than  others,  which  is  easily  regulated  by 
adding  more  or  less  of  the  gravy.  But  by  placing  the  stew- 
pan  over  a  slow  fire  when  the  stock  is  drawn  down  to  a 
glaze,  and  allowing  it  to  remain  a  short  time,  the  glaze  will 
become  brownish,  (but  be  careful  not  to  let  it  bum,)  when 
fill  it  up  and  your  consomme  will  be  sufficiently  coloured. 

But  sAotdd  it  require  clarifying,  put  it  into  a  stewpan  and 
when  boiling  have  the  whites  of  eight  eggs  with  their  sheUs 
in  another  stewpan,  whisk  them  half  a  minute,  then  add  a 
quart  of  cold  stock,  whisk  all  well  together,  then  whisk  the 
boiUng  consomme  and  pour  in  the  whites  of  eggs ;  still  con. 
tinue  whisking  it  over  a  clear  fire  until  it  simmers  and  the 
eggs  separate  from  the  consomme,  which  will  b$  then  quite 
clear ;  then  pass  it  through  a  thin  but  very  fine  cloth  into  a 
basin  and  it  is  ready  for  use.  This  is  a  new  mode  of  clari-* 
fying  and  cannot  fail. 

For  the  proportions  for  smaller  quantities  of  consomme,  to 
four  pounds  of  veal  put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  ham,  one 
ounce  of  butter,  two  onions,  half  a  carrot,  a  tumip,  half  a 
leek,  haK  a  head  of  celery,  a  sprig  of  parsley,  one  of  thyme, 
a  bay-leaf,  three  cloves,  six  peppercorns,  an  ounce  and  a  half 
of  salt  and  four  quarts  of  water ;  it  will  require  an  hour  and 
three  quarters  boiling.  Or  if  you  have  to  prepare  it  from 
beef,  veal,  and  the  trimmings  of  other  meats,  and  require  a 


PJTAGE8.  55 

larger  quantity,  take  ten  pounds  of  meat,  to  which  add 
three  onions,  half  a  pound  of  ham,  a  carrot,  two  turnips,  a 
leek,  head  of  celery,  two  sprigs  of  parsley,  thyme,  and  two 
bay-leaves,  six  cloves,  six  peppercorns,  two  ounces  and  a  half 
of  salt,  a  blade  of  mace,  and  ten  quarts  of  water ;  it  will 
require  two  hours  and  a  half  boiling ;  trimmings  of  rabbit, 
pouhiy,  or  even  game,  may  be  added,  but  not  too  much 
game,  especially  if  at  all  high.  You  will  here  perceive  that 
by  increasing  the  quantity  of  stock  there  is  a  diminution  in 
the  quantity  of  seasonings  and  vegetables,  for  the  larger 
quantity  requiring  a  longer  ebullition^  extracts  more  flavour 
from  the  spices  and  vegetables ;  a  stock  for  consomme  by 
gently  simmering  will  lose  a  pint  and  a  half  to  every  four 
quarts ;  I  must  here  also  observe  that  by  again  filling  up  a 
stock  with  cold  water  and  boiling  it  the  same  time  over 
again,  you  will  have  an  excellent  second  stock,  a  httle  of 
which  may  be  added  to  the  first,  if  it  should  have  suffered 
from  over  reduction,  for  vegetable  soups  are  not  so  palatable 
when  made  too  strong ;  the  second  stock  is  also  very  useful 
to  fill  up  a  first  stock,  whereby  some  of  the  meat  otherwise 
required  can  be  saved,  and  if  not  required  for  that  it  may  be 
converted  into  glaze  by  mixing  it  with  other  stock  and  pro- 
ceeding as  directed  (No.  132). 

No.  135.  Brown  Gravy. 

Butter  the  bottom  of  a  thick  stew^n,  peel  six  large 
onions,  cut  them  in  three  slices,  lay  them  flat  on  the  bottom 
of  the  stev^pan  which  you  have  well  buttered;  take  ten 
pounds  of  leg  of  beef,  cut  the  flesh  from  the  bone  in  large 
shoes,  lay  it  over  the  onions  with  the  bones,  which  must  be 
well  chopped;  add  six  cloves,  two  blades  of  mace,  two 
carrots,  two  turnips,  two  leeks,  one  head  of  celery,  and  a 
tablespoonful  of  salt;  put  it  over  a  brisk  fire  about  ten 
minutes,  shake  the  stewpan  now  and  then,  and  when  form- 


56  POTAOES. 

ing  a  brown  glaze  at  the  bottom,  cover  the  stove  with 
ashes;  set  it  on  again,  and  let  it  remain  half  an  hour, 
until  it  gets  very  brown  (but  not  burning);  pour  the 
fat  off,  which  must  be  very  clear;  if  not,  it  is  not  ready 
to  fill  up;  fill  up  with  ten  quarts  of  cold  water;  when 
boiling,  let  it  simmer  at  the  comer  of  the  stove  two  hours ; 
skim  it  well,  pass  it  through  a  cloth,  and  use  it  when  re- 
quired. Should  any  of  the  brown  sauces,  large  or  small, 
be  too  pale,  use  some  of  tUs  gravy  instead  of  consomme,  as 
directed. 

No.  136.  Potage  a  la  Victoria, 

Cut  eight  pounds  of  veal,  four  pounds  of  scrag  of  lamb, 
and  one  pound  of  lean  ham  in  dice ;  butter  the  bottom  of  a 
stewpan,  put  in  the  meat,  with  three  onions,  two  turnips, 
one  carrot,  one  head  of  celery,  three  bay-leaves,  a  bunch  of 
parsley,  and  half  a  pint  of  broth  (No.  7) ;  place  it  over  a 
slow  fire,  stirripg  it  occasionally  until  the  bottom  is  covered 
with  a  white  glaze ;  then  add  eight  quarts  of  light  broth  or 
water,  and  two  ounces  of  salt ;  when  it  boils,  place  it  at  the 
comer  of  the  stove  for  an  hour;  have  ready  peeled  and 
washed  four  apples,  eight  artichokes,  and  two  anchovies; 
put  them  in,  and  let  them  boil  about  an  hour ;  afterwards 
pass  it  through  a  napkin ;  then  put  half  a  pint  of  pearl 
barley  into  a  stewpan  with  the  stock ;  when  the  barley  has 
boiled  quite  tender  mix  three  tablespoonfuls  of  arrow-root 
with  a  little  cold  broth,  add  it  to  the  barley,  pass  the  whole 
through  a  tammie,  put  it  into  a  clean  stewpan,  and  let  it 
boil  ten  minutes ;  if  it  is  too  thick,  add  boiled  milk  to  thin 
it.  Season  with  half  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  skim  it  well, 
have  ready  thirty  cockscombs  dressed  as  No.  128,  and  half 
a  handful  of  picked  parsley  in  small  sprigs,  and  blanched ; 
put  the  cockscombs,  parsley,  and  a  gill  of  good  cream  into 
the  tureen,  pour  the  soup  in,  mix  well,  and  serve;  the 


r 


POTAOES.  57 

barley  must  be  d<»ie  sufficiently  to  give  the  soap  a  light 
consistency. 

No.  137.  Potcye  a  la  Louia  PhUifipe. 

Make  a  stock  exactly  as  for  the  potage  a  la  Victoria,  and 
instead  of  mixing  barley,  put  two  ounces  of  butter  into  a 
stewpan,  with  three  ounces  of  flour ;  stir  it  over  a  moderate 
&e  about  ten  minutes,  then  let  it  cool ;  add  the  whole  of 
the  stock,  stirring  it  all  the  time,  until  it  boils ;  then  put 
six  tablespoonfiils  of  semolina  into  it,  let  it  simmer  at  the 
comer  of  the  stove  until  it  is  quite  tender,  rub  it  through  a 
tammie,  boil  it  again;  have  ready  scooped  with  a  small 
cutter  about  eighty  pieces  of  turnips,  put  them  into  a  stew- 
pan  with  one  ounce  of  butter  and  a  teaspoonful  of  pounded 
sugar,  pass  them  over  a  moderate  fire  until  half  done,  then 
throw  them  into  the  soup,  and  let  them  simmer  until  quite 
tender ;  season  with  a  Uttle  salt,  and  when  you  serve  it,  put 
a  gill  of  cream  into  the  stewpan,  mix  well,  and  serve  im? 
mediately ;  strew  a  little  chopped  chervil,  and  about  sixty 
heads  of  sprue  grass  in  the  tureen,  or,  if  in  season,  add 
thirty  small  Bmssels  sprouts,  boiled  very  green. 

No.  188.  Potage  a  la  Frince  of  Woks. 

Cut  up  twelve  pounds  of  veal  with  the  bones,  two  pounds 
of  ham,  two  calves'  feet,  with  a  few  pieces  of  trimmings  of 
game  or  poultry  (if  any,  if  not  add  two  pounds  more  veal), 
butter  the  bottom  of  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  meat  with  six 
Jerusalem  artichokes,  two  turnips,  two  onions,  four  leeks, 
one  head  of  celery,  and  a  bouquet  garni ;  put  about  a  pint 
of  broth  (No.  133)  into  the  stewpan,  place  it  over  a  brisk 
fire,  stirring  it  every  five  minutes  until  the  bottom  is  covered 
with  white  glaze,  then  add  about  ten  quarts  of  light  broth 
(No.  138),  let  it  boil  an  hour,  add  five  middle-sized  apples, 
peeled  and  cored,  with  four  anchovies,  well  washed;  let 


5S  POTAOES. 

it  simmer  an  hour  and  a  half  longer,  skim  it  well,  pass  it 
through  a  napkin,  and  clarify  as  No.  134 ;  cut  ^ght  small 
long  fillets  off  the  breast  of  a  braised  fowl,  cover  them  all 
over  vnth  forcemeat  (No.  122),  have  ready  a  paste-brush 
dipped  in  whites  of  eggs,  smooth  them  over  with  it,  lay 
them  in  a  saute-pan,  cover  them  with  white  broth  as 
No.  138;  they  must  simmer  gently  about  ten  minutes. 
Make  a  custard  thus :  get  a  set  of  fresh  lamb's  brains,  waeii 
them  well,  put  an  ounce  of  butter  into  a  saute-pan,  cut  the 
brains  in  thin  slices,  and  lay  them  in,  seasoned  with  a  little 
pepp^,  salt,  chopped  parsley,  and  lemon-juice ;  place  them 
over  a  moderate  fire  until  they  become  rather  firm ;  put 
them  by  until  quite  cold,  then  break  six  eggs  into  a  basin ; 
beat  them  well,  mix  four  spoonfuls  of  good  broth,  and  a 
Uttle  p^per  and  salt  with  the  eggs;  pass  it  through  a 
tammie  into  another  basin,  then  mix  a  teaspoonful  of 
chopped  parsley  with  it;  put  some  into  a  flat-bottomed 
mould  about  half  an  inch  thick ;  steam  it  about  two  minutes; 
take  it  out,  put  a  layer  of  brains  upon  the  custard,  and 
pour  the  remainder  of  the  custard  over;  let  it  steam  very 
quickly  about  half  an  hour,  take  it  out,  let  it  get  rather 
cool,  then  cut  your  pieces  of  fowl  and  custard  into  middling 
sized  pieces,  diamond-shaped,  about  half  an  inch  thick; 
have  aspanxgus  points  cut  and  boiled  in  salt  and  water; 
put  the  asparagus,  fowl,  and  custard  into  the  tureen,  and 
pour  the  stock  very  gently  over,  previously  adding  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  «ugar.  This  potage,  though  comphcated,  is 
very  easily  made  with  a  httle  practice ;  it  is  entirely  new, 
very  stomachic  and  wholesome.  It  must  be  of  the  colour 
of  hght  sherry. 

No.  139.  Potage  a  la  Comte  de  Paris, 

Cut  in  large  dice  six  pounds  of  veal,  six  do.  of  leg  of  beef, 
two  pounds  of  lean  ham,  highly  flavoured,  two  calves'  feet. 


I 

I 
f 
I 


70TAOJB8.  60 

two  heads,  of  white  celery,  four  onions,  one  carrot,  two 
turnips,  three  cloves,  two  trades  of  mace,  and  a  handM  of 
fresh  parsley;  put  three  tablespoonfuls  of  good  salad  oil 
into  a  stewpan,  add  the  whole  of  the  ingredients,  place  it 
over  a  quick  fire,  stir  it  ten  minutes  with  a  wooden  spoon ; 
then  add  half  a  }»nt  of  broth  (No.  133) ;  when  the  bottom 
is  nearly  dry,  add  ten  quarts  of  broth,  as  before ;  when  it 
boils,  place  it  at  the  comer  of  the  stove ;  skim  as  usual,  add 
a  tablespoonful  of  salt ;  have  ready  peeled  and  washed  twelve 
Jerusalem  artichokes,  and  six  middle-sized  apples  cut  in 
quarters,  and  the  core  taken  out,  which  may  be  added 
when  it  has  boiled  an  hour  and  a  half ;  let  it  remain  half  an 
hour  longer,  then  pass  the  stock  through  a  napkin  into  a 
clean  stewpan,  replace  it  on  the  stove  and  clarify  as  No. 
134.  The  acidity  of  the  apples  wiU  assist  the  clmfication 
of  the  stock  and  give  it  the  brightness  of  sherry.  Take  a 
spring  chicken  braised  as  No.  523,  cut  it  in  ten  pieces, 
cover  each  piece  all  over  lightly  With  forcemeat  (No.  120), 
butter  a  saute-pan,  lay  them  in  it,  have  ready  a  paste  brush 
dipped  in  whites  of  eggs,  smooth  each  piece  over  with  it, 
cover  them  with  white  broth  (No.  138),  and  let  them  re- 
main simmering  gently  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  take 
them  out  of  the  broth  and  lay  them  on  a  cloth,  have  ready  a 
httle  riband  maccaroni  blanched  ia  salt  and  water,  drain  it 
upon  a  sieve,  put  it  into  the  soup  and  let  it  boil  a  few 
minutes,  put  the  pieces  of  fowl  into  the  tureen,  pour  the 
soup  over,  (with  the  maccaroni  in  it),  and  serve.  This  soup 
requires  to  be  of  the  colour  of  pale  sherry. 

No.  140.  Potage  a  la  Princesae  Royale, 

Take  all  the  meat  off  a  roast  fowl,  pound  it  well  in  the 
mortar,  put  the  bones  to  boil  half  an  hour  in  three  quarts  of 
boiling  stock  (No.  7),  peel  six  good  cucumbers,  cut  them  in 
sUces ;  when  this  is  prepared,  put  into  a  stewpan  a  quarter 


60  POT  AGES. 

of  a  pound  of  butter,  two  onions  sliced,  half  a  pound  of 
lean  ham,  two  bay-leaves,  one  branch  of  basil,  and  the 
cucumbers ;  place  the  whole  over  a  brisk  fire,  pass  them 
five  minutes,  add  one  pint  of  broth,  let  it  simmer  half  an 
hour,  then  add  the  pounded  fowl,  two  ounces  of  flour,  and 
four  spoonfuls  of  sago,  mix  the  whole  well  with  a  wooden 
spoon,  and  pour  the  broth  over  it;  let  it  boil  about 
twenty  minutes,  then  rub  it  through  a  tammie,  put  it  into  a 
clean  stewpan  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  it  boils ;  be  care- 
ful it  is  not  too  thick,  put  into  it  a  quart  of  boiling  milk,  and 
skim  directly,  add  a  good  spoonful  of  sugar  and  as  much 
salt  as  required ;  put  twenty  pieces  of  cucumber,  as  No. 
103,  into  the  tureen,  half  a  pint  of  green  peas  nicely  boiled, 
and  half  a  gill  of  good  cream,  pour  the  soup  over,  mix  well, 
and  serve.  This  soup  must  not  be  too  thick ;  in  fact  it  is 
much  better  for  all  thick  soups  to  be  too  thin  than  too  thick, 
but  to  be  correct  dip  a  wooden  spoon  into  it  when  quite  hot 
and  it  should  very  hghtly  adhere  to  it. 

No.  141.  Pota^e  a  la  Sawe  Cohofwrg. 

Put  half  a  pound  of  fresh  butter  into  a  stewpan,  half  a 
poimd  of  lean  ham,  and  a  large  onion  sliced  very  thin,  pass  it 
ten  minutes  over  a  slow  fire ;  have  ready,  previously  boiled, 
one  hundred  small  Brussels  sprouts,  press  the  water  from 
them,  chop  them  fine,  add  them  to  the  onions  and  butter, 
pass  them  five  minutes  over  a  brisk  fire,  add  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  fiour,  mix  well,  add  fom*  quarts  of  good  stock 
(No.  134),  and  a  pint  of  boiled  milk ;  boil  it  quickly  ten 
minutes,  stirring  it  all  the  time,  season  with  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  sugar,  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  and  pass  it  through  a 
tammie  a  quarter  of  an  hour  before  serving ;  boil  and  skim 
weU,  it  must  not  be  thicker  than  green  pea-soup ;  put  some 
croutons  in  the  tureen,  with  twenty  very  small  quenelles  de 
volaille  (No.  120),  and  serve. 


r 


POTAGBSk'  61 

No.  142.  Potage  a  la  Comtesse. 

Cut  half  a  pound  of  lean  ham,  with  one  onion,  in  small 
dice,  have  a  bouquet  garni,  and  six  ounces  of  butter ;  put  the 
whole  into  a  stewpan  over  a  moderate  fire,  stirring  it  about 
ten  minutes;  then  cut  five  or  six  throat  sweetbreads  in 
slices  (which  have  been  previously  blanched  in  water),  put 
them  into  the  stewpan  and  add  a  pint  of  white  broth ;  let  it 
simmer  nearly  half  an  hour,  add  four  tablespoonfals  of  flour, 
mix  well,  pound  it  in  a  mortar,  put  it  into  the  stewpan 
again,  with  about  four  quarts  of  veal  stock  (No.  7),  set  it 
over  a  brisk  fire  until  it  boils,  season  with  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  two  ditto  of  sugar,  and  a  Uttle  white  pepper ;  rub  it 
through  a  tammie ;  when  you  serve  it  add  a  gill  of  cream, 
and  croutons,  cut  hke  sixpences,  and  fried  in  half  butter 
and  half  oil.  If  too  thick  moisten  it  with  more  stock  to 
make  it  of  the  consistency  of  a  puree. 

No.  143.  Potage  a  la  Greaham. 

Cut  tw^o  knuckles  of  veal  and  two  pounds  of  ham  in  dice, 
butter  the  bottom  of  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  meat,  vrith  three 
onions,  one  carrot,  two  turnips,  two  heads  of  celery,  one 
leek,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaves,  basil,  marjoram, 
and  a  pint  of  white  broth  (No.  133) ;  let  it  simmer  over  a 
moderate  fire  about  twenty  minutes,  then  add  twelve  quarts 
more  broth ;  when  it  boils  have  ready  half  a  calf's  head  which 
^  has  been  scalded  \  put  it  into  the  stewpan  and  let  it  simmer 
two  hours  and  a  half,  when  done  put  it  on  a  dish  to  cool ; 
pass  the  stock  through  a  cloth  into  a  clean  stewpan,  and 
place  it  over  the  fire ;  then  mix  half  a  pound  of  arrow-root, 
with  three  glasses  of  Madeira,  and  half  a  pint  of  cold  broth ; 
when  the  stock  boils  add  the  arrow-root,  stirring  it  aU  the 
time,  (skim  it  well),  about  twenty  minutes,  pass  it  through 
a  tammie ;  before  serving  cut  about  twenty  pieces  of  the 


62  POTAGES. 

calf's  head,  (free  from  any  fat) ,  in  large  dice  about  an  inch 
and  a  half  square ;  put  them  in  the  tureen  and  pour  the 
soup  over.  Add  a  little  salt  and  sugar  if  required ;  this  soup 
is  very  delicate,  but  better  made  too  thin  than  too  thick. 

No.  144.  Fotagfe  a  la  Colbert 

Peel  and  wash  about  a  dozen  Jerusalem  artichokes,  cut 
them  in  slices  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  lay  them  fiat 
upon  the  table  and  cut  them  through  with  a  cutter  about 
the  size  of  a  large  pea,  wash  two  heads  of  celery  well,  cut 
them  round  like  sixpences,  peel  fifty  small  button  onions,  and 
pass  the  whole  in  a  stewpan  with  two  ounces  of  butter  and 
a  teaspoonful  of  sugar  until  no  Uquor  remains  with  the  vege- 
tables and  they  are  covered  with  a  glaze,  keeping  them  quite 
white ;  if  any  liquor  remains  in  your  vegetables  it  will  spoil 
the  appearance  of  the  soup ;  put  them  into  a  clean  stewpan 
with  four  quarts  of  consomme  (No.  134),  and  half  a  pint  of 
gravy  (No.  136),  let  it  simmer  at  the  comer  of  the  stove 
about  ten  minutes,  taking  care  to  skim  it  well,  cut  about 
forty  pieces  of  cos  lettuce  the  size  of  half-a-crown,  which  boil 
till  done,  cut  twenty  pieces  of  thin  crust  of  Frendi  bread 
about  the  size  of  a  shilling,  which  must  be  put  into  the 
tureen  and  the  soup  poured  over. 

No.  145.  Potage  a  la  Clermont, 

Peel  and  cut  thirty  button  onions  into  rings,  firy  them 
yellow  in  butter,  cut  also  about  sixty  pieces  of  carrots,  the 
size  of  a  sixpenny  piece,  boil  them  in  stock  until  nearly  done, 
then  put  them  on  a  sieve  to  drain,  put  four  quarts  of  con- 
somme (No.  134),  and  a  gill  of  brown  gravy  (No.  135),  into 
a  stewpan  with  two  ounces  of  semolina,  when  boiling  add 
the  carrots  and  onions ;  let  it  simmer  twenty  minutes,  add  a 
little  pickled  chervil,  cut  a  small  spring  chicken  in  pieces, 
which  has  been  previously  braised  (No.  523),  put  it  into  the 


poTAaKs.  63 

soup  a  few  imnutes  previous  to  serving,  and  a  tablespoonful 
of  sugar,  add  a  little  more  seasoning  if  required. 

No.  146.  Potage  Macedoine  de  Legwnies, 

Cut  an  equal  quantity  of  carrots,  turnips,  celery,  and  Jeru- 
salem artichokes  with  a  scoop  cutter,  as  large  again  as  a  pea, 
pass  them  in  sugar  and  butter,  with  about  a  dozen  button 
onions ;  have  ready  four  quarts  of  consomme  (No.  134),  put 
the  vegetables  into  it,  let  if  boil  at  the  comer  of  the  stove 
about  twenty  minutes,  add  half  a  cabbage  lettuce  cut  small, 
ten  leaves  of  sorrel,  a  few  leaves  of  tarragon  and  chervil 
(skim  it  well),  add  a  httle  salt  if  required ;  serve  a  few  green 
peas,  or  asparagus  boiled  very  green,  in  the  tureen  with  the 
soup ;  give  it  a  beautiAil  colour  with  a  little  brown  gravy 
(No.  135)  if  required. 

No.  147.  Potage  a  la  Jardiniere, 

Have  ready  the  consomme  clarified  as  previously,  cut  car- 
rots, turnips,  and  celery,  in  shoes  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick,  cut  them  through  with  a  long  cutter,  add  ten  button 
onions,  pass  them  in  sugar  and  butter  as  usual,  put  them 
into  four  quarts  of  clarified  consomme,  let  it  simmer  at  the 
comer  of  the  stove  about  twenty  minutes,  or  until  the  vege- 
tables are  done,  skim  it  well,  add  a  small  quantity  of  picked 
tarragon,  chervil,  and  a  few  white  leaves  of  a  cos  lettuce : 
season  with  a  httle  salt  if  required ;  when  done  and  ready 
to  serve  put  into  the  tureen  a  few  French  beans,  peas, 
cauhflower,  or  Brussels  sprouts  according  to  the  season. 

No.  148.  Potage  a  la  Julienne. 

Prepare  and  clean  three  carrots,  three  turnips,  two  onions, 
two  leeks,  and  one  head  of  celery,  wash  them  all  well,  cut  the 
carrots  an  inch  in  breadth  in  thin  shoes,  cut  them  again  across 
into  small  thin  strips,  if  the  carrots  are  old  the  red  part  only 


64  POTAGSS. 

must  be  used  and  peeled  off  like  ribands,  as  fine  and  regular 
as  possible ;  all  the  vegetables  must  be  cut  in  the  same  way ; 
put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  into  a  stewpan,  when  it 
is  melted,  put  in  the  onions  and  firy  them  about  three  mi- 
nutes, then  add  the  remainder  of  the  vegetables,  and  pass 
them  quickly  with  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  toss  them  over 
every  minute,  when  there  is  no  water  remaining  at  the  bot- 
tom add  to  them  four  quarts  of  clarified  consomme,  let  it  boil 
gently  at  the  comer  of  the  stove  Itbout  twenty  minutes,  skim 
well,  add  six  sorrel  leaves,  one  cabbage  lettuce,  and  a  little 
picked  chervil,  the  lettuce  and  sorrel  must  be  cut  in  dice, 
serve  very  hot.  If  not  sufficiently  coloured  add  half  a  pint 
of  gravy  (No.  135). 

No.  149.  Potage  atuv  petits  Naveta  a  brun. 

Peel  ten  fresh  turnips,  scoop  as  many  as  possible  out  of 
them  with  a  small  cutter,  the  size  of  a  marble ;  put  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  sugar  into  a  stewpan,  when  it  gets  rather  brown 
over  the  fire,  put  in  about  two  ounces  of  butter  with  the 
turnips,  toss  them  over  the  fire  until  they  get  a  nice  yellow 
colour ;  have  ready  nearly  boiling  four  quarts  of  consomme 
i^No.  134),  and  half  a  pint  of  brown  gravy  (No.  135),  put 
them  into  it,  let  it  simmei  about  twenty  minutes,  or  until 
the  turnips  are  tender,  taking  care  to  skim  it  well,  season 
with  a  little  salt  and  sugar  if  required ;  the  consomme  must 
be  a  little  browner  than  usual. 

No.  150.  Potage  a  la  Frintaniere, 

Cut  a  bunch  of  spring  carrots,  ditto  of  turnips,  ditto  of 
green  spring  onions,  in  thick  pieces,  splitting  the  carrots  in 
four,  and  about  half  an  inch  in  length,  wash  them  well,  dry 
on  a  cloth,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  two  ounces  of 
butter  and  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  pass  them  ten  minutes 
over  a  sharp  fire,  have  ready  four  quarts  of  consomme 


FOTAOB8.  65 

(^0. 184),  nearly  boiling,  put  in  the  vegetables  and  let  it 
boil  at  the  comer  of  the  stove  fifteen  minutes,  skim  it 
well,  add  a  very  little  chervil  and  half  a  pint  of  young  peas, 
raw,  when  the  peas  are  tender  it  is  done ;  put  a  few  French 
beans,  cut  in  diamonds,  into  the  tureen,  and  serve. 

No.  151.  Pota^e  a  la  Jerwalem. 

Have  ready  two  dozen  artichokes  peeled  and  washed, 
scoop  them  with  a  cutter,  the  size  of  a  marble,  pass  them 
with  butter  and  sugar  over  a  moderate  fire  until  they  are 
quite  dry,  put  them  into  four  quarts  of  clarified  consomm^ 
(No.  1S4),  and  let  them  simmer  until  tender,  skim  it  well, 
season  with  a  little  salt  and  sugar  if  required ;  a  little  brown 
gravy  (No.  135),  may  be  added. 

No.  152.  Potage  a  la  Marcus  HiU, 

Butter  the  bottom  of  a  stewpan,  take  three  or  four  pounds 
of  the  knuckle  of  veal,  and  half  a  pound  of  lean  ham  in  dice, 
(in  case  you  have  no  veal,  beef  or  mutton  may  be  used  in- 
stead ;)  add  two  onions,  three  carrots,  two  tuniips,  and  half 
a  pint  of  broth  (No.  18fS),  let  it  simmer  on  a  brisk  fire,  stir 
it  very  often,  when  it  forms  a  thick  jelly  at  the  bottom  fill  it 
up  with  a  gallon  of  broth  or  water ;  it  must  simmer  on  the 
comer  of  the  stove  an  hour,  taking  care  to  skim  it  well  un- 
til reduced  to  three  quarts,  which  will  be  sufficient  for  ten 
or  twelve  persons. 

Make  a  Chiffonade  as  follows : — Cut  up  four  cabbage  let- 
tuces, (me  cos  ditto,  a  handful  of  sorrel,  a  little  chervil,  and 
tarragon,  with  two  cucumbers  finely  sliced,  the  whole  being 
well  washed  and  drained  on  a  colander ;  put  two  ounces  of 
butter  in  a  stewpan  and  the  chifibnade  over  it,  place  it  over 
a  brisk  fire  until  very  little  liquid  remains ;  add  to  it  two 
tablespoonfnls  of  flour,  mixing  it  with  the  vegetables  and 
stirring  it  well.     Pour  the  stock  over,  adding  a  quart  of 

5 


f 


66  POTAGES. 

young  firesh  peas,  skim  it  well ;  half  an  hour's  ebullition  will 
suffice  for  this  delicious  soup,  and  the  flavour  of  the  vege- 
tables will  be  fully  preserved ;  season  with  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt  and  two  of  sugar. 

No.  153.  Potage  aux  pointes  cCAsperges  et  (Eufs poches. 

Poach  ten  new  laid  eggs  in  salt  water  and  vinegar,  rather 
hard,  trim  them,  put  them  into  the  tureen,  with  half  a  pint 
of  sprue  grass,  put  three  quarts  of  clarified  consomme 
(No.  134)  to  boil ;  put  into  it  for  three  minutes  a  fowl  just 
roasted ;  when  you  take  it  out  add  twelve  leaves  of  tarragon, 
skim  it  well,  season  with  a  little  salt  and  sugar,  pour  it 
gently  over  the  eggs,  and  be  careful  not  to  break  them ; 
your  potage  will  have  a  most  beautiful  flavour  of  fowl,  and 
the  fowl  will  be  as  good  as  before  for  many  made  dishes. 
This  soup  must  be  of  the  colour  of  pale  sherry. 

No.  154.  Potage  a  la  Brunoise. 

Cut  two  middle-sized  carrots,  two  turnips,  and  four 
Jerusalem  artichokes  into  thin  slices,  lay  them  separately 
upon  a  table  and  cut  each  piece  through  with  a  small  dia- 
mond cutter ;  add  one  head  of  celery  cut  in  small  diamond- 
shaped  pieces,  and  about  a  dozen  very  small  onions  peeled ; 
put  altogether  into  a  stewpan  with  three  ounces  of  butter 
and  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar ;  pass  them  over  a  brisk  fire  until 
the  water  from  the  vegetables  is  quite  dried  up,  and  the 
butter  and  sugar  form  a  glaze  over  them ;  put  them  into  a 
clean  stewpan  with  four  quarts  of  clarified  consomme 
(No.  134) ;  toast  a  piece  of  French  bread  very  brown,  but  not 
burnt,  put  it  into  the  soup  five  minutes  without  breaking ; 
when  the  vegetables  are  tender  it  is  ready  to  serve ;  add 
about  three  tablespoonfuls  of  brown  gravy  (No.  136),  and 
put  a  few  pieces  of  very  white  cauliflower  into  the  tureen. 


POTAGFS  67 

No.  165.  Potage  a  la  Nivernaise. 

Oat  an  equal  quantity  of  all  kinds  of  vegetable  in  thin 
sKces,  lay  them  on  the  table  and  cut  them  through  with  a 
cutter  the  shape  of  a  heart,  pass  them  in  butter  and  sugar, 
have  r^uiy  four  quarts  of  consomme  (No.  134),  blanch  one 
ounce  of  Italian  paste  in  salt  and  water,  put  it  into  the  soup 
ten  minutes  before  serving ;  sldm  well,  add  a  little  sugar,  and 
put  four  lai^  quenelles  (No.  1 20)  cut  in  slices,  into  the  tureen . 

No.  156.  Potage  a  la  Palestine. 

Cut  two  onions,  half  a  pound  of  lean  ham,  one  turnip,  one 
head  of  celery,  two  bay -leaves  and  a  sprig  of  thyme ;  put  the 
whole  into  a  stewpan  with  half  a  poimd  of  butter,  let  it  fiy 
on  a  slow  fire  about  twenty  minutes  (stirring  it  all  the  time), 
when  forming  a  white  glaze  at  the  bottom,  take  it  oiF  the 
fire ;  have  ready  peeled  and  washed  a  dozen  and  a  half  of 
Jerosalem  artichokes  (if  they  are  large,  if  small  a  larger 
quantity  will  be  required)  cut  in  thin  slices ;  put  them  into 
the  stewpan  with  half  a  pint  of  white  broth  (No.  183),  let  it 
simmer  until  tender ;  acitd  three  tablespoonfiils  of  flour,  mix 
the  whole  well  together ;  add  four  quarts  of  good  stock,  and 
a  pint  of  boiled  milk  \  stir  it  until  boiling,  season  with  a  tea- 
spoonfiil  of  salt,  two  ditto  of  sugar,  rub  it  through  a  tam- 
mie,  boil  it  again  and  skim,  &y  croutons  of  bread  (cut  small) 
in  butter ;  when  ready  to  serve  add  a  gill  of  cream  and  three 
yolks  of  eggs  made  in  a  liaison  in  the  tureen,  pour  the  soup 
over ;  (if  too  thick  add  a  little  more  stock) ;  put  in  the  crou- 
tons and  serve. 

No.  157.  Potage  a  la  puree  de  Novels. 

Cut  half  a  pound  of  lean  ham  in  dice,  with  two  onions, 
one  head  of  celery,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  butter  and  a  bouquet  garni,  stir  it  over  a 


68  POTAGES. 

moderate  fire  about  teu  minutes,  then  add  half  a  pint  of 
white  broth  (No.  188),  with  three  pounds  of  turnips,  peeled, 
washed  and  cut  in  thin  shoes ;  place  them  over  a  slow  fire 
until  they  are  quite  tender ;  then  add  three  tablespoonfiils  of 
flour,  mix  well  together,  add  three  quarts  of  broth,  stir  it 
until  boiling,  season  with  a  httle  white  pepper,  and  a  tea^ 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  two  of  sugar ;  sldm  it  well,  pass  it 
through  a  tammie,  boil  it  again,  add  a  pint  of  boiled  nulk, 
skim  it  well  ten  minutes ;  when  you  serve  add  a  liaison  of 
two  yolks  of  eggs  mixed  with  a  gill  of  cream,  pour  the 
soup  in  ihe  tureen  with  small  dice  of  fried  bread.  It  must 
be  rather  thin. 

No.  158.  Totage  a  la  puree  d'Asperges. 

Cut  two  fresh  bundles  of  sprue  grass,  boil  very  quickly 
in  salt  and  water  until  tender ;  put  four  ounces  of  fresh  but- 
ter into  a  stewpan  with  half  a  spoonful  of  chopped  onions ; 
when  it  is  melted  mix  the  sprue  with  it,  then  add  three 
spoonfrils  of  flour,  and  four  quarts  of  veal  stock  with  one 
pint  of  boiled  milk,  let  it  boil  five  minutes,  stirring  it  all 
the  time ;  season  with  a  teaspoonfcd  of  salt,  two  ditto  of 
sugar,  and  a  little  white  pepper ;  pass  it  through  a  tammie, 
boil  it  again  in  a  clean  stewpan  ten  minutes,  and  skim  it 
well ;  serve  half  a  pint  of  sprue  grass  nicely  boiled  in  it. 

No.  159.  Potageala  Crecy. 

Scrape,  wash,  and  cut  in  thin  slices,  some  carrots ;  take 
three  pounds  and  a  half  of  the  red  part  only,  lay  them  cxi  a 
sieve  to  drain,  put  into  a  stewpan  half  a  pound  of  lean  ham, 
two  onions,  and  one  head  of  celery  sUced,  add  half  a  pound 
of  butter,  three  cloves,  one  blade  of  mace,  pass  it  over  a 
moderate  fire  twenty  minutes,  then  add  the  carrots  with  one 
pint  of  white  broth  (No.  133),  when  quite  tender  add  three 
tablespoonfiils  of  flour,  mix  well,  put  four  quarts  of  white 


POTAOES.  69 

veal  stock;   let  it  simmer  nearly  an  hour,  skim  it  well, 

rob  it  through  a  tammie,  boil  it  again,  if  too  thick  add  a 

httle  more  broths  put  fried  bread  into  the  tureen,  season 

with  a  tablespoonfiil  of  sugar,  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper  if 

required. 

No.  160.  Potage  a  la  puree  de  Chcn^eur. 

Boil  three  large  white  cauliflowers  in  salt  and  water  until 
quite  tender,  chop  them  very  fine,  put  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  butter  into  a  stewpan,  one  leek,  one  head  of  celery  (in 
sUces)  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  ham,  and  two  bay-leaves,  pass 
them  ten  minutes  over  a  quick  fire ;  add  the  cauMower,  and 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  mix  well,  add  three  quarts  of 
white  stock,  and  one  ditto  of  boiled  milk ;  stir  it  untQ  boil- 
ing, rub  it  through  a  tammie,  boil  and  skim  well ;  season 
with  a  teaspoonfd  of  sugar,  half  ditto  of  salt ;  finish  with  a 
liaison  of  two  yolks  of  eggs  nuxed  with  a  giU  of  cream ; 
pour  the  soup  into  the  tureen,  have  a  cauliflower  boiled,  and 
cut  into  twenty  small  sprigs,  put  them  into  the  soup,  but  be 
sure  not  to  break  them. 

No.  161.  Potage  a  la  puree  de  Concombres. 

Put  half  a  pound  of  butter  into  a  stewpan,  sUce  two  escha* 
lots,  six  Jerusalem  artichokes,  (if  early  in  the  spring,  but 
they  may  be  omitted,)  half  a  pound  of  lean  ham,  and  six 
cucumbers  peeled  very  carefully,  as  the  least  green  would 
give  a  bad  flavour ;  stir  it  over  a  slow  fire  twenty  minutes, 
then  add  the  meat  of  half  a  braised  fowl  (No.  523),  well 
pounded,  and  three  spoonfuls  of  flour,  mix  well ;  add  three 
quarts  of  veal  stock,  and  a  quart  of  boiled  milk,  let  it  boil, 
keeping  it  stirred,  rub  it  through  a  tammie,  put  it  into  a 
dean  stewpan,  skim  it  well ;  season  with  one  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  two  ditto  of  sugar,  have  ready  about  twenty  pieces  of  cu- 
cumber, stewed  as  (No.  103),  put  them  into  the  tureen,  add 
half  a  pint  of  good  cream  to  the  soup,  and  serve.  It  must 
not  be  too  thick. 


70  POTAOES. 

No.  162.  Fotage  a  la  puree  de  Pois  verts. 

Gut  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lean  bacon  in  dice ;  put  it 
into  a  stewpan  with  a  good  bunch  of  green  onions,  ditto  of 
parsley^  a  small  piece  of  nunt,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
butter,  and  three  quarts  of  very  fresh  peas,  pour  some  cold 
water  over,  wash  the  peas  well — ^in  mixing  the  butter  with 
them  pour  off  all  the  water ;  place  them  over  a  brisk  fire 
until  they  are  quite  tender,  then  pound  them  in  a  mortar, 
put  back  into  the  stewpan,  add  three  tablespoonfiils  of  flour ; 
(mix  it  well),  and  about  four  quarts  of  good  broth ;  stir  it 
until  boiling,  skim  well ;  season  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
three  ditto  of  sugar,  and  a  little  white  pepper,  pass  it  through 
a  tanmiie  and  boil  again ;  when  you  serve  it  have  ready 
some  croutons  (small  dice  of  fried  bread),  put  them  in  the 
tureen.     Do  not  serve  it  too  thick. 

No.  163.   Clear  Giblet  Soup, 

Cut  six  pounds  of  knuckle  of  veal,  with  the  bones,  and 
one  pound  of  lean  ham  in  lai^e  dice,  have  three  onions,  two 
turnips,  one  carrot,  two  heads  of  celery,  a  bouquet  garni,  and 
a  tablespoonful  of  salt ;  butter  a  stewpan  Ughtly,  put  in  the 
whole  of  the  ingredients,  add  six  cloves,  two  blades  of  mace, 
and  half  a  pint  of  water ;  pass  it  over  a  brisk  fire  about 
twenty  minutes,  stirring  every  two  or  three  minutes ;  when 
there  is  a  white  glaze  upon  the  spoon  add  eight  quarts  of 
broth  (No.  133),  or  water;  directly  it  boils  place  it  at  the 
comer  of  the  stove,  scald  the  giblets  in  boiUng  water  five 
minutes,  take  them  out,  and  cut  them  in  joints,  the  giz- 
zard  in  four  pieces ;  put  them  into  the  stock  and  let  them 
simmer  gently  until  they  are  quite  tender,  which  will  be 
about  two  hours  and  a  half ;  take  them  out,  pass  the  stock 
through  a  cloth,  and  clarify  as  (No.  134);  have  ready 
some  carrots  and  turnips  scooped  with  a  small  cutter,  two 


POTAGES.  71 

heads  of  celery  cut  in  small  dice,  and  passed  in  butter  and 
sugar,  put  them  into  the  soup,  and  let  them  boil  gently 
until  quite  tender ;  skim  well,  season  with  a  little  salt  and 
sugar ;  put  the  giblets,  with  some  French  beans  or  peas, 
into  the  tureen  and  pour  the  soup  over. 

No.  164.  Potage  aux  Queues  de  JBcnif  (clair.) 

Cut  six  pounds  of  leg  of  beef  in  large  dice,  without  bones, 
cut  two  ox  tails  in  joints,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  half 
a  pound  of  ham,  one  carrot,  one  head  of  celery,  four  onions, 
two  ounces  of  butter,  half  a  pint  of  white  broth  (No.  183), 
six  cloves,  one  blade  of  mace,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  salt ; 
pass  it  over  a  moderate  fire  half  an  hour,  stirring  it  every 
five  minutes ;  when  getting  a  yellow  glaze  at  the  bottom 
put  some  ashes  on  the  stove  to  slacken  the  fire,  let  it  remain 
twenty  minutes  longer,  until  the  bottom  is  covered  with  a 
brown  glaze,  then  add  two  gallons  of  cold  water,  start  it  on 
a  quick  fire,  skim  it,  and  let  it  simmer  on  the  comer  of  the 
stove  for  two  hours,  or  until  the  ox  tail  is  quite  tender ;  then 
take  all  the  pieces  of  ox  tail  out  and  put  them  by  until  wanted; 
pass  the  stock  through  a  napkin  into  a  clean  stewpan,  have 
ready  some  vegetables  cut  Uke  for  jardiniere  (No.  147),  pass 
.  them  in  sugar  and  butter,  put  them  into  the  stock,  boil  until 
quite  tender ;  season  with  a  htUe  more  salt  if  required,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  sugar,  and  a  Uttle  cayenne ;  ten  minutes  previous 
to  serving  add  a  bunch  of  parsley  with  a  httle  thyme  and 
bay-leaf,  and  the  ox  tails ;  take  out  the  parsley  and  servo 
very  hot. 

No.  165.  Potage  aux  Queues  cfJffneau. 

Cut  six  pounds  of  trinunings  of  lamb  or  veal,  half  a  pound 
of  ham,  a  large  bunch  of  parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaves  and 
marjoram,  three  cloves,  one  blade  of  mace;  put  tlu*ee 
tablespoonfuls  of  salad  oil  into  a  stewpan  with  the  ingre- 
dients, and  half  a  pint  of  white  broth,  cut  six  lamb's  tails  in 


73  rUTAGKS. 

joints  on  inch  long,  put  them  into  the  stewpan  with  one 
calf  s  foot  cot  in  pieces,  pass  it  ten  minutes  over  a  brisk  fire, 
then  add  six  quarts  of  broth  (No.  133),  or  water,  and  two 
ounces  of  salt,  when  boiling,  skim  well,  and  let  it  simmer 
on  the  comer  of  the  stove  about  an  hour;  take  out  the. 
pieces  of  tails  and  pass  the  stock  through  a  napkin  into  a 
stewpan,  mix  two  ounces  of  arrowroot  with  a  gill  of  cold 
broth,  and  a  glass  of  Madeira,  throw  it  into  the  boiling  stock, 
stir  well  all  the  time,  skim ;  season  with  two  teaspoonfuls 
of  sugar,  pass  through  a  tammie  into  a  clean  stewpan ;  put 
in  the  pieces  of  tail  ten  minutes  before  serving ;  be  careful 
to  take  off  any  fat  which  may  rise  from  them,  add  juice  of  a 
lemon  and  serve. 

No.  166.  Potage  cmx  Queues  deveau  {clair). 

Proceed  exactly  as  in  the  last,  but  instead  of  lamb  use 
veal,  for  stock,  cut  four  calves'  tails  in  pieces  half  an  inch 
bug,  allow  more  time  to  stew,  being  laiqger,  but  finish  the 
same  way. 

No.  167.  Potageala  BucKesse. 

Cut  eight  pounds  of  veal,  one  pound  of  ham,  and  one 
calf's  foot  in  dice,  butter  the  .bottom  of  a  stewpan,  put  in 
the  meat  with  two  onions,  the  peel  of  half  a  lemon,  and  half 
a  pint  of  broth  (No.  133) ;  pass  the  whole  over  a  brisk  fire, 
until  forming  a  white  glaze,  then  add  eight  quarts  of  broth, 
or  water,  and  half  a  pint  of  brown  gravy  (No.  135),  when 
boiling,  let  it  simmer  at  the  comer  of  the  stove  about  two 
hours,  boil  a  fowl  in  it,  skim  it  weU,  pass  through  a  tam- 
mie ;  put  two-  ounces  of  arrowroot  into  a  basin,  mix  with 
half  a  pint  of  cold  broth,  add  it  to  the  boiling  stock,  skim 
well,  boil  twenty  minutes,  have  ready  a  small  spring  chicken 
braised,  when  cold  cut  it  in  nice  pieces,  have  ready  also 
about  forty  small  quenelles  de  volaille  (No.  120),  put  them 
into  the  soup  and  serve.  The  fowl  that  you  boil  in  the 
stock  may  be  used  instead  of  the  chicken. 


POTAQS8.  73 

No.  168.  Clear  Chrouse  Soup. 

Cut  six  pounds  of  1^  of  beef  in  large  dice,  with  two 
wild  rabbits,  and  one  pound  of  lean  ham,  butter  the  bottom  of 
a  stewpan,  put  in  the  meat,  with  two  calf  s  feet,  two  onions, 
four  leeks,  one  carrot,  two  turnips,  a  bunch  of  thyme,  mar- 
joram, bay-leaves,  and  parsley,  a  blade  of  mace,  and  six 
cloves  all  inclosed  in  the  bunch ;  set  the  stewpan  over  a 
brislL  fire,  add  one  pint  of  broth  (No.  133),  stir  it  until 
forming  a  white  glaze,  then  add  eight  quarts  of  water,  and 
nearly  a  pint  of  brown  gravy  (No.  135) ;  when  boiling  about 
an  hour  add  the  trimmings  of  three  grouse  which  have  been 
previously  roasted  underdone,  (cut  the  fillets  and  legs  in 
pieces  and  reserve  for  the  tureen ;)  let  it  simmer  one  hour 
longer,  pass  through  a  napkin  into  a  clean  stewpan  when 
near  boihng,  add  an  ounce  of  arrowroot  mixed  with  two 
glasses  of  port  wine  and  a  little  cold  broth ;  season  with 
a  tablespoonful  of  salt  and  half  ditto  of  sugar ;  boil  twenty 
minutes,  pour  into  your  tureen  over  the  grouse,  and  serve 
veiy  hot.     The  above  quantity  would  be  sufficient  for  two 
tureens. 

No.  169.  Clear  Partridge  Soup. 

Proceed  exactly  the  same  as  in  the  last,  being  very  parti- 
cular that  the  birds  are  young  and  not  over  done. 

No,  170.  Clear  Pheasant  Soup. 

Prepare  the  soup  as  before,  two  young  pheasants  will  be 
enough,  but  they  must  hang  until  full  flavoured,  or  it  would 
not  taste  of  game.  Where  pheasants  are  plentiful  some 
may  be  used  instead  of  the  rabbits. 

No.  171.  Clear  Woodcock  Soup, 
Roast  two  or  three  woodcocks,  well  wrapped  in  paper, 


74  POTAOES. 

underdone,  let  them  cool,  cut  them  in  pieces  like  the  grouse, 
put  the  trimmings  into  the  soup,  which  must  be  the  same 
as  the  grouse  soup  (No.  168) ;  put  the  inside  of  the  wood- 
cocks in  the  mortar,  pound  well,  mix  four  ounces  of  force- 
meat (No.  122)  with  it,  add  one  yolk  of  egg,  take  a  knife, 
surroimd  every  part  of  the  pieces  with  it,  poach  them  gently 
in  a  saute-pan  with  a  httle  stock,  put  them  into  the  tureen 
and  pour  the  consomme  over. 

No.  172.  Clear  Hare  Soup, 

Cut  a  young  hare  in  smaU  pieces,  the  legs  in  two  pieces, 
ditto  the  shoulders,  and  the  back  in  six  pieces,  put  them  in 
a  stewpan  with  half  a  pound  of  lean  ham  cut  in  dice,  half  a 
pound  of  butter,  eight  cloves,  two  blades  of  mace,  twenty 
peppercorns,  fry  the  whole  twenty  minutes  over  a  moderate 
fire ;  when  the  hare  is  getting  firm  throw  over  it  an  oimce 
of  arrowroot,  mix  well,  add  six  quarts  of  consomme  (No. 
1 34)  and  one  of  water,  let  it  boil  nearly  two  hours,  or  until 
the  hare  is  done,  which  you  may  easily  ascertain  with  a 
fork,  if  quite  tender  put  into  a  small  stewpan  until  wanted, 
pass  the  stock  through  a  fine  sieve  \  have  ready  four  heads 
of  good  white  celery  washed,  cut  all  the  best  part  in  dia- 
monds, pass  them  in  butter  and  sugar,  then  add  about  a 
pint  of  the  stock  and  simmer  until  tender,  keeping  it  well 
skimmed ;  before  serving  add  the  celery,  pieces  of  hare,  one 
glass  of  port  wine,  quarter  of  a  tablespoonful  of  salt,  and 
one  ditto  of  sugar ;  serve  very  hot,  pouring  it  over  some  of 
the  best  pieces  of  hare  which  you  have  reserved  for  yoiur 
tureen,  nicely  trimmed. 

No.  173.  Potage  dair  a  la  Pomomere, 

Prepare  a  good  stock  of  eight  pounds  of  veal,  half  a  pound 
of  ham,  one  carrot,  one  turnip,  four  onions,  four  cloves,  two 
blades  of  mace,  two  heads  of  celery,  and  half  a  pint  of  broth ; 


POTAGE8.  75 

pass  it  over  a  brisk  fire  twenty  minutes,  when  there  is  a 
white  glaze  at  the  bottom  add  two  gallons  of  broth  (No.  133) 
or  water,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  salt,  then  add  a  small 
cod's  head,  let  it  simmer  two  hours,  skim  well,  pass  it 
through  a  doth  into  a  clean  stewpan,  put  it  again  on  the 
stove  to  reduce  one  third,  have  ready  scalded  and  bearded 
four  dozen  of  fresh  oysters  and  a  pint  of  muscles,  fillet 
one  sole,  cut  it  in  diamonds;  quarter  of  an  hour  before 
serving  dinner  put  into  the  soup  the  oysters,  muscles,  and 
fillets  of  soles,  with  half  a  handful  of  picked  parsley; 
let  it  simmer  ten  minutes,  skim  it  well,  add  a  little  salt  if 
required,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar  with  a  little  cayenne, 
and  serve  very  hot. 

No.  174.  Grouse  Soup. 

Roast  two  or  three  grouse,  take  off  all  the  flesh,  reserving 
some  of  the  fillets,  which  cut  in  thin  slices  and  serve  with 
the  soup  in  the  tureen ;  put  the  bones  in  a  stewpan  with 
two  quarts  of  first  stock  (No.  1 33) — ^boil  them  half  an  homr 
— ^place  the  flesh  into  a  mortar,  pound  it  well,  then  put  two 
onions,  half  a  carrot,  and  a  turnip,  in  shoes  into  a  stewpan, 
with  haK  a  pound  of  butter,  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley,  thyme, 
two  bay-leaves,  six  peppercorns,  and  half  a  blade  of  mace ; 
stir  them  five  minutes  over  the  fire,  then  add  a  pint  of  stock, 
and  stew  them  until  tender,  when  add  the  flesh  of  the  birds 
and  four  ounces  .of  flour ;  mix  them  well  together,  then  add 
the  stock  from  the  bones,  half  a  pint  of  brown  gravy 
(No.  135)  and  some  consomme  (No.  134),  making  altogether 
five  quarts,  boil  twenty  minutes,  keeping  it  stirred ;  season 
with  a  little  salt  and  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar;  pass  it 
through  a  tanmde,  then  put  it  into  another  stewpan,  boil 
it  again,  skim  well,  pour  it  into  a  tureen  in  which  you 
Imve  put  some  croutons  and  the  pieces  of  fillets ;  serve 
very  hot. 


76  P0TA0B8. 

No.  175.  Pheasant  Soup, 

Prepare  this  soup  exactly  as  the  last,  but  finishing  with 
milk  or  cream,  and  omitting  the  brown  gravy,  as  this  soup 
must  be  kept  white. 

No.  176.  Partridge  Sowp, 
Boast  four  partridges,  and  proceed  as  in  the  last. 

No.  177.  Hare  Soup. 

Cut  eight  pounds  of  beef  and  yeal,  with  about  a  pound  of 
bacon,  in  4arge  dice,  have  three  onions,  two  turnips,  two 
carrots,  four  bay-leaves,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  four  sprigs  of 
thyme,  basil,  and  three  heads  of  celery ;  butter  the  bottom  of 
a  stewpan,  put  in  the  meat  and  vegetables  with  a  pint 
of  broth,  place  it  over  a  moderate  fire,  cut  the  hare  in 
pieces  (rather  small),  put  it  into  the  stewpan,  stir  it  every 
six  minutes  until  it  is  covered  with  a  brown  glaze,  then  add 
three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  flour  over  the  meat,  mix  well 
with  eight  quarts  of  broth  (No.  133),  and  a  pint  of  brown 
gravy  (No.  185) ;  let  it  simmer  until  the  hare  is  quite  tender, 
take  it  out  of  the  stewpan,  then  trim  about  ten  or  twelve  of 
the  best  pieces  for  the  tureen,  pull  ail  the  meat  from  the 
remainder,  pound  it  well  in  the  mortar  and  add  it  to  the 
puree ;  pass  it  through  a  tammie,  put  it  into  a  dean  stewpan, 
place  it  on  the  stove  to  boil  again ;  mix  the  following  ingre- 
dients in  a  basin,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  eight  ditto  of 
port  wine,  half  ditto  of  salt,  a  good  pinch  of  cayenne  pepper, 
one  ditto  of  sugar,  mix  well  with  half  a  pint  of  cold  broth 
(No.  133),  add  it  to  the  soup  when  upon  the  point  of 
boiling ;  stir  it  well,  serve  very  hot ;  two  heads  of  celery 
may  be  added  cut  small,  passed  in  butter,  and  boiled  until 
tender. 


POTAGES.  77 

No.  178.  Puree  of  all  kinds  of  GaTne^miwed  or  separate. 

If  you  have  any  game  fix)m  a  previous  dinner,  whether 
pheasant,  partridge,  gronse,  hare,  wild  rabbits,  or  any  kind 
rf  game,  take  all  the  meat  from  the  bones,  put  the  bones  in 
a  stewpan  to  simmer  with  four  quarts  of  consomme  (No.  134) 
half  an  horn-,  pound  the  meat  in  the  mortar  very  fine,  put  it 
into  a  clean  stewpan  with  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  half 
ditto  of  ham,  two  heads  of  celery  cut  thin,  two  eschalots,  one 
carrot,  one  turnip,  four  cloves,  and  four  peppercorns ;  pass  it 
over  a  slow  fire  twenty  minutes,  add  half  a  pint  of  broth, 
with  the  meat,  (whidi  for  that  quantity  of  soup  should  be 
about  two  pounds),  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  mix 
well,  pour  the  stock  from  the  bones  over,  with  half  a  pint  of 
brown  gravy  (No.  135),  boil  twenty  minutes,  pass  it  through 
a  tammie  into  a  clean  stewpan,  if  too  thick  add  more  broth 
season  with  a  little  salt  and  a  spoonful  of  sugar ;  put  some 
croutons  in  a  tureen  cut  very  thin  of  the  size  of  a  sixpenny 
piece,  and  crisp,  if  not  ready  to  serve  it  must  be  kept  hot 
in  the  bain  marie ;  do  not  let  it  boil  after  it  is  passed,  or  it 
will  curdle  and  have  a  bad  appearance. 

No.  179.   GibletSoup. 

P^pare  the  stock  exactly  like  the  clear  giblet  (No,  168), 
instead  of  clarifying  it  put  half  a  pound  of  batter  into  a 
stewpan  with  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  floor,  make  a 
Kgbt-cok>ured  roux,  mix  the  stodc  with  it,  boil  it  about 
forty  minutes,  keeping  it  stirred,  add  a  lai^  bouquet  garni, 
pass  through  a  tammie  into  a  clean  stewpan,  have  ready 
about  fifty  small  button  onions,  passed  in  butter  and  sugar, 
throw  them  into  the  soup  and  let  them  simmer  tmtil  imdet ; 
ten  minutes  before  serving  add  a  glass  of  Madeira,  and  Uie 
giblets  (which  you  have  well  trimmed),  aeaaovi  with alittle 
^t  and  sugar  if  necessary. 


76  POTAG18. 

No.  176.  Pheamnt  8oup, 

Prepare  this  soup  exactly  as  the  last,  but  jfinishing  with 
milk  or  cream,  and  omitting  the  brown  gravy,  as  this  soup 
must  be  kept  white. 

No.  176.  Partridge  Sofwp, 
Roast  four  partridges,  and  proceed  as  in  the  last. 

No.  177.  Hare  Soup. 

Cut  eight  pounds  of  beef  and  veal,  with  about  a  pound  of 
bacon,  in  4arge  dice,  have  three  onions,  two  turnips,  two 
carrots,  four  bay-leaves,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  four  sprigs  of 
thyme,  basil,  and  three  heads  of  celery ;  butter  the  bottom  of 
a  stewpan,  put  in  the  meat  and  vegetables  with  a  pint 
of  broth,  place  it  over  a  moderate  fire,  out  the  hare  in 
pieces  (rather  small),  put  it  into  the  stewpan,  stir  it  every 
six  minutes  until  it  is  covered  with  a  brown  glaze,  then  add 
three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  flour  over  the  meat,  mix  well 
with  eight  quarts  of  broth  (No.  133),  and  a  pint  of  brown 
gravy  (No.  186) ;  let  it  simmer  until  the  hare  is  quite  tender, 
take  it  out  of  the  stewpan,  then  trim  about  ten  or  twelve  of 
the  best  pieces  for  the  tureen,  pull  all  the  meat  from  the 
remainder,  pound  it  well  in  the  mortar  and  add  it  to  the 
puree ;  pass  it  through  a  tammie,  put  it  into  a  dean  stewpan, 
place  it  on  the  stove  to  boil  again ;  mix  the  following  ingre* 
dients  in  a  basin,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  eight  ditto  of 
port  wine,  half  ditto  of  salt,  a  good  pinch  of  cayenne  pepper, 
one  ditto  of  sugar,  mix  well  with  half  a  pint  of  cold  broth 
(No.  133),  add  it  to  the  soup  when  upon  the  point  of 
boiling ;  stir  it  well,  serve  very  hot ;  two  heads  of  celery 
may  be  added  cut  small,  passed  in  butter,  and  boiled  until 
tender. 


POT  AGES.  77 

No.  178.  Puree  of  all  kinds  of  Game^  miised  or  separate. 

If  you  have  any  game  firom  a  previous  dinner,  whether 
pheasant,  partridge,  gronse,  hare,  wild  rabbits,  or  any  kind 
rf  game,  take  all  the  meat  firom  the  bones,  put  the  bones  in 
a  stewpan  to  simmer  with  four  quarts  of  consomme  (No.  1 34) 
half  an  hour,  pound  the  meat  in  the  mortar  very  fine,  put  it 
into  a  clean  stewpan  with  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  half 
ditto  of  ham,  two  heads  of  celery  cut  thin,  two  eschalots,  one 
carrot,  one  turnip,  four  cloves,  and  four  peppercorns ;  pass  it 
over  a  slow  fire  twenty  minutes,  add  half  a  pint  of  broth, 
with  the  meat,  (which  for  that  quantity  of  soup  should  be 
about  two  pounds),  and  three  tablespoonfols  of  flour,  mix 
well,  poor  the  stock  firom  the  bones  over,  with  half  a  pint  of 
brawn  gravy  (No.  135),  boil  twenty  minutes,  pass  it  through 
a  tanunie  into  a  clean  stewpan,  if  too  thick  add  more  broth 
season  with  a  little  salt  and  a  spoonful  of  sugar ;  put  some 
croutons  in  a  tureen  cut  very  thin  of  the  size  of  a  sixpenny 
piece,  and  crisp,  if  not  ready  to  serve  it  must  be  kept  hot 
in  the  bain  marie ;  do  not  let  it  boil  after  it  is  passed,  or  it 
will  curdle  and  have  a  bad  appearance. 

No.  179.  GibletSoup. 

Prepare  the  stock  exactly  like  the  clear  giblet  (No.  163), 
instead  of  clarifying  it  put  half  a  pound  of  butter  into  a 
stewpan  with  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  flour,  make  a 
light-ec^ured  roux,  mix  the  stock  with  it,  boil  it  about 
forty  minutes,  keeping  it  stirred,  add  a  large  bouquet  garni, 
pass  through  a  tammie  into  a  dean  stewpan,  have  ready 
about  fifty  small  button  onions,  passed  Iq  butter  and  sugar, 
throw  them  into  the  soup  and  let  them  simmer  until  tender ; 
ten  minutes  before  serving  add  a  glass  of  Madeira,  and  the 
giblets  (which  you  have  well  trimmed),  season  with  a  little 
salt  and  sugar  if  necessary. 


78  POTAOSS. 

No.  180.  Potageala  JReine. 

Put  a  pint  of  rice  into  a  basin,  wash  well  in  three  waters, 
put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  into  a  stewpan,  two 
minced  onions,  one  turnip,  one  carrot,  four  Jerusalem  arti- 
chokes, half  a  pound  of  lean  bacon,  two  cloves,  half  a  blade 
of  mace,  and  a  small  bunch  of  parsley ;  pass  the  whole  over 
a  slow  lire  about  fifteen  minutes,  taking  care  it  is  not  the 
least  brown ;  add  three  quarts  of  white  stock  (No.  7)  and 
the  rice,  let  it  simmer  very  gently  until  the  rice  is  quite 
tender,  have  ready  a  fowl  roasted,  take  all  the  meat  ofi*  the 
bones  and  pound  well  in  the  mortar,  put  the  bones  in  a 
stewpan  with  two  quarts  more  stock,  boil  a  quarter  of  an 
hour,  add  the  meat  to  the  rice  and  vegetables,  and  pound 
all  well  together,  put  it  back  into  the  same  stewpan,  add 
the  broth  from  the  bones,  rub  through  a  tammie,  boil  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  longer,  season  with  a  tablespoonful  of 
sugar,  skim  well,  put  two  yolks  of  eggs  in  a  small  basin, 
mix  well  with  half  a  pint  of  cream  and  pass  through  a  tam- 
mie ;  two  minutes  previous  to  serving  throw  it  in  the  soup, 
stir  it  in  quickly,  put  some  croutons  in  the  tureen,  add  more 
stock  if  too  thick  and  serve  very  hot. 

No.  181.  Potage  a  la  Begente. 

Prepare  your  soup  just  as  the  above ;  have  ready  braised 
a  spring  chicken,  cut  in  ten  nice  pieces ;  put  it  into  the 
soup  ten  minutes  to  warm ;  put  into  the  tureen  four  spoon- 
fuls of  very  green  sprue  grass,  if  in  season,  or  green  peas, 
or  small  Brussels  sprouts,  and  pour  the  soup  gently  over. 

No.  182.  Soup  MvUigatavmy, 

Cut  four  onions,  four  apples,  one  carrot,  two  turnips, 
one  head  of  celeiy,  and  half  a  pound  of  lean  ham  in  slices ; 
put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  half  a  pound  of  butter,  pass 


POTAGE8.  79 

it  twenty  minutes  over  a  brisk  fire,  with  four  cloves,  one 
blade  of  mace,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaves,  and 
a  pint  of  broth  (No.  1 83) ;  let  it  simmer  about  twenty  mi- 
nutes, then  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  curry  powder,  one 
do.  of  curry  paste,  and  four  do.  of  flour ;  mix  the  whole  well 
farther,  with  eight  quarts  of  broth ;  when  boiling,  skim  it, 
season  with  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  and  salt  if  required ; 
pass  it  through  a  tammie,  serve  with  pieces  of  roast  chicken 
in  it,  and  boiled  rice  in  a  separate  dish  (No.  129.)  It  must 
not  be  too  thick,  and  of  a  good  yellow  colour. 

No.  183.  Potage  Queues  de  Veau  a  blanc. 

Make  the  stock  and  stew  the  calves'  tails  precisely  as 
No.  166,  instead  of  clarifying  it ;  put  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  butter  into  a  stewpan  with  six  ounces  of  flour ;  stir  it 
over  the  fire  about  five  minutes ;  let  it  cool,  then  mix  the 
stock  with  it,  stirring  it  well  with  a  wooden  spoon  until  it 
boils;  then  place  it  at  the  comer  of  the  stove  about 
twenty  minutes ;  skim,  add  a  bouquet  garni,  and  a  glass 
of  madeira  or  sherry,  pass  it  through  a  tammie;  season  with 
a  spoonful  of  sugar,  a  little  cayenne,  and  salt  if  required ; 
put  it  into  another  stewpan  upon  the  fire,  and  ten  minutes 
before  serving  add  half  a  pint  of  cream  and  the  calves'  tails 
to  warm. 

No.  184.  Potage  Queues  de  Veau  a  VIndienne. 

Put  four  quarts  of  mulligatawny  soup  (No.  182)  into  a 
stewpan,  and  a  pint  of  consomme  (No.  134) ;  cut  some 
vegetables  as  for  julienne  (No.  148),  put  ten  tablespoonfuls 
of  salad  oil  into  a  saute-pan ;  when  hot,  fry  the  vegetables 
in  it,  until  rather  brown ;  lay  them  on  a  sieve  to  drain,  then 
add  them  to  the  soup,  which  is  in  ebullition ;  skim  well, 
put  about  fifteen  nice  pieces  of  calves'  tail  in  it,  and  serve, 
with  sosLe  dry  boiled  rice  in  a  separate  dish. 


80  DOTAGES. 


No.  186.  Potage  Tete  de  Veau  a  Flndienne. 

Proceed  exactly  as  above,  except,  put  pieces  of  cooked 
calf  s  head  cut  in  square  pieces,  instead  of  calves'  tail. 

No.  186.  Potage  Queues  deBteufa  VIndienne. 

Prepare  the  same  stock  as  No.  184;  put  about  twelve 
pieces  of  ox-tail,  well  stewed,  as  No.  164,  into  the  soup 
ten  minutes  before  serving. 

No.  187.  Potage  Queues  de  Bteufa  FAnglaiae, 

Butter  the  bottom  of  a  middling-sized  stewpan,  into 
which  put  six  pounds  of  leg  of  beef,  two  ox-taik  cut  in 
joints,  four  onions,  two  heads  of  celery,  two  turnips,  one 
carrot,  ten  peppercorns,  a  blade  of  mace,  six  cloves,  and  a 
bimch  of  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay-leaves ;  then  add  half  a 
pint  of  water,  place  it  over  the  fire,  stirring  it  round 
occasionaQy,  untQ  the  bottom  of  the  stewpan  is  covered 
with  a  brownish  glaze;  then  fill  up  the  stewpan  with 
eight  quarts  of  first  stock  (No.  133),  and  two  oimces  of  salt ; 
when  boihng,  place  it  at  the  comer  of  the  fire,  skim  it,  and 
let  it  simmer  until  the  pieces  of  ox-tails  are  perfectly 
tender,  when  take  them  out,  aod  put  them  into  a  basm ; 
then  pass  the  stock  through  a  cloth,  in  another  stewpan, 
make  a  roux  with  half  a  poimd  of  butter,  and  three 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  flour ;  then  add  the  stock,  which 
should  not  exceed  seven  quarts;  stir  it  over  the  fire 
until  it  boils,  then  add  a  salt-spoonful  of  cayenne,  two 
glasses  of  port  wine,  and  four  heads  of  celery  (cut  fine  and 
passed  ten  minutes,  in  butter,  ov^  a  sharp  fire,)  let  the 
soup  simmer  an  hour  at  the  comer ;  skim  it  well,  and  put 
by  until  wanted ;  this  quantity  is  sufficient  for  two  tureens, 
so  when  ready  to  serve,  put  half  of  it  in  a  stewpan,  with 


POTAGES.  81 

ten  pieces  of  the  taik,  and  when  quite  hot,  poiir  it  into  your 
tureen.     If  too  thick,  add  a  Uttle  consomme. 

No.  188.  Potage  aux  Huitres. 

Blanch  four  dozen  oysters  until  rather  firm  (they  must 
not  nearly  boil)  drain  them  on  a  sieve ;  save  the  liquor  in 
which  they  are  blanched.  Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
butter  into  a  stewpan ;  when  it  is  melted  mix  with  it  six 
ounces  of  flour ;  stir  it  over  a  slow  fire  a  short  time ;  after- 
wards let  it  cool,  then  add  the  hquor  of  the  oysters,  a  quart 
of  milk,  and  two  quarts  of  good  veal  stock  (No.  7) ;  season 
as  follows:  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a  saltspoonful  of 
cayenne  pepper,  five  peppercorns,  half  a  blade  of  mace, 
a  tablespoonful  of  Harvey  sauce,  and  half  do.  of  essence  of 
anchovy;  strain  it  through  a  tammie;  boil  it  again  ten 
minutes,  skim  well ;  beard  the  oysters,  and  put  them  in  the 
tureen ;  add  a  gQl  of  cream  to  the  soup,  when  it  is  served, 
and  pour  it  over  the  oysters. 

No.  189.  Potage  auxjUets  de  Soles, 

Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  with  six  ounces  of 
flour  into  a  stewpan ;  make  a  white  roux ;  when  cold,  mix 
well  with  two  quarts  of  veal  stock  (No.  7),  and  one  quart 
of  milk  i  set  it  on  the  stove,  stir  until  boiling ;  have  ready 
filleted  two  very  fresli  soles ;  trim  the  fillets,  and  put  the 
hones  and  trimmings  into  the  soup,  with  four  cloves,  two 
blades  of  mace,  two  bay-leaves ;  two  spoonfuls  of  essence 
of  anchovy,  one  do.  of  Harvey  sauce,  one  do.  of  sugar,  half 
a  saltspoonful  of  cayenne,  and  a  little  salt  if  required ;  skim 
well,  pass  through  a  sieve  into  a  clean  stew  pan,  boil  again ; 
pat  in  ten  small  pieces  of  salmon  cut  half  an  inch  long,  and 
a  quarter  do.  wide ;  cut  the  fillets  of  the  soles  the  same  size, 
put  them  into  the  boiling  soup  with  half  a  handful  of  picked 
parsley ;  boil  ten  minutes ;  finish  with  two  yolks  of  eggs 

6 


82  POTAGES. 

and  half  a  pint  of  cream  mixed  together ;  throw  them  into 
the  soup.  The  pieces  of  soles  are  to  be  added  five  minntes 
before  serving ;  the  salmon  may  be  omitted. 

No.  190.  Potage  a  la  Poissonniere. 

Blanch  two  dozen  oysters,  four  dozen  very  fresh  muscles, 
blanched  and  bearded ;  put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  but- 
ter into  a  stewpan,  with  six  ounces  of  flour,  make  a 
white  roux;  when  cool,  add  the  hquor  of  the  oysters, 
muscles,  and  bone  of  the  sole,  with  two  quarts  of  broth, 
and  three  pints  of  milk ;  season  with  a  spoonful  of  salt,  one 
do.  of  sugar,  a  sprig  of  th)rme,  parsley,  two  bay-leaves,  four 
cloves,  and  two  blades  of  mace ;  pass  through  a  tammie  into 
a  clean  stewpan,  boil  and  skim  well ;  cut  about  ten  pieces  of 
salmon  into  thin  slices,  half  an  inch  long,  a  quarter  do. 
wide ;  cut  the  fillet  of  the  sole  the  same  size ;  put  all  into 
the  boiling  soup,  with  half  a  handful  of  picked  parsley,  and 
.  gill  rf^good'cream ;  put  tte  oyrte^Ld  ZJr.  th, 
tureen  and  serve. 

No.  191.  Potage  d'AnguiUe. 

Bone  two  large  eels  from  head  to  tail,  cut  the  meat  off  in 
slanting  dice  the  size  of  a  teaspoon  \  put  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  butter  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  spoonful  of  chopped 
eschalots,  to  which  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  flour ;  stir 
it  over  a  moderate  fire  five  minutes,  let  it  cool,  then  add 
three  quarts  of  good  consomme  (No.  134) ;  when  it  boils 
throw  in  the  bones  of  the  eels,  a  small  bunch  of  turtle 
herbs  ;  let  it  boil  a  few  minutes ;  skim  it  well,  pass  through 
a  tammie  into  a  clean  stewpan  \  put  the  raw  eel  into  it,  with 
two  spoonfuls  of  Harvey  sauce,  one  do.  essence  of  anchovy, 
a  quarter  of  a  handful  of  picked  parsley,  two  glasses  of  port 
wine,  a  httle  salt  and  sugar ;  place  it  again  over  the  fire,  boil 
five  minutes,  skim,  and  serve 


I 


POTAGES.  83 

No.  192.  Potage  de  Homard, 

Take  all  meat  from  a  hen  lobster,  break  up  the  shell  and 
small  claws  in  a  mortar,  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with 
five  pints  of  consomm^  place  it  at  the  comer  of  the  fire 
to  simmer  half  an  hour;  then  mix  the  red  spawn  with 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  as  directed  (No.  77) ;  then 
put  two  onions,  a  piece  of  carrot,  and  half  a  turnip,  in  sUces, 
into  a  stewpan,  with  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley  and  thyme, 
two  bay-leaves,  a  blade  of  mace,  four  cloves,  and  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  butter ;  stir  them  ten  minutes  over  a  mode- 
rate fire,  then  add  the  flesh  of  the  lobster,  previously  well 
pounded,  reserving  a  few  slices  for  the  tureen,  and  half  a 
pmt  of  second  stock ;  boil  it  a  minute,  then  add  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  flour;  mix  it  well,  and  moisten  with  the 
stock  from  the  shells  which  strain  into  it;  season  with 
a  little  cayenne  pepper  and  essence  of  anchovies ;  boil  it 
five  minutes,  then  rub  it  through  a  tammie,  and  put  it  into 
a  clean  stewpan ;  let  it  boil  ten  minutes  at  the  comer  of  the 
fire,  skim  it  well,  and  when  upon  the  point  of  serving,  stir 
in  the  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lobster  butter ;  do  not  let  it 
boil  afterwards ;  pour  it  into  the  tureen  over  the  fillets  of 
lobster,  and  serve  very  hot.  This  soup  requires  to  be  quite 
a  red  colour. 

No.  193.  Potage  a  la  Chanoinaiae. 

Make  a  white  roux  of  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter 
and  six  ounces  of  flour ;  add  five  pints  of  white  consonmie 
(No.  134)  and  three  pints  of  nulk;  when  boiUng,  skim 
well :  add  ttiree  tablespoonfols  of  essence  of  anchovy,  two 
do.  of  Harvey  sauce,  a  bunch  of  thyme,  parsley,  bayleaf, 
half  a  spoonfrd  of  salt,  do.  of  sugar,  and  a  little  cayenne 
pepper ;  pass  through  a  tammie ;  have  ready  the  soft  roes  of 
three  mackarel,  cut  in  square  pieces,  and  passed  in  butter, 


84  POTAOE8. 

as  directed  (No.  382) ;  throw  them  in  the  soup ;  have  ready 
Kkewise  twenty  small  quenelles  of  fish  (No.  124) ;  finish  with 
two  ounces  of  maitre  d'hotel  butter  (No.  79)  in  which  you 
have  introduced  a  Uttle  chopped  tarragon ;  put  the  whole 
into  the  soup  five  minutes  previous  to  serving;  add  the 
juice  of  a  lemon. 

No.  194.  Potage  Pate  d'ltalie. 

Put  four  tablespoonfiils  of  various  shaped  small  Italian 
paste  in  a  quart  of  boiling  water,  with  a  little  salt  in  it,  boil 
it  a  few  minutes ;  put  it  on  a  sieve  to  drain ;  have  about  three 
quarts  of  clarified  consomme  (No.  134),  quite  boiling;  put 
the  paste  into  it,  and  boil  a  quarter  of  an  hour ;  it  must  be 
of  a  pale  sherry  colour ;  consomme  of  fowl  is  the  best  for 
this  kind  of  potage;  season  with  a  little  salt  and  sugar. 
A  piece  of  good  glaze  may  likewise  be  introduced. 

No.  195.  Potage  au  VermiceUe. 

Put  three  quarts  of  consomme  to  boil,  throw  in  a  good 
handful  of  vermicelli;  let  it  sinmier  gently  about  fifteen 
minutes ;  season  with  salt  and  a  little  sugar. 

No.  196.  Potage  a  la  Semouie, 

Put  about  six  tablespoonfiils  of  semoulina  into  three  quarts 
of  consomme  (No.  134) ;  when  it  boils,  set  it  at  the  comer 
of  the  stove  to  simmer  about  twenty  minutes ;  season  with 
a  little  salt  and  sugar ;  serve  very  hot. 

No.  197.  Potage  au  Biz, 

Steep  half  a  pint  of  rice  (previously  well  washed)  in  boil- 
ing water  five  minutes,  drain  it  on  a  sieve,  put  it  into  three 
quarts  of  boiling  eonsomme  (No.  134),  let  it  simmer  half 
an  hour ;  when  the  rice  is  quite  done,  but  not  in  puree,  it 
is  quite  ready  to  serve,  with  the  addition  of  a  piece  of  glaze 


POTAOSS.  85 

and  a  little  sugar  if  required.    The  consomme  must  be  very 
strong  for  this  soup. 

No.  198.  Potage  au  Macaroni. 

Boil  twenty  sticks  of  macaroni  in  two  quarts  of  water 
where  you  have  put  salt,  and  a  piece  of  butter ;  when  tender, 
cut  each  stick  in  three  pieces ;  have  ready  three  quarts  of 
consomme  (No.  184)  put  the  macaroni  in,  simmer  twenty 
minutes ;  and  serve  with  grated  Parmesan  cheese  separate. 

No.  199.  Potage  au  Macaroni  en  rudands. 

Prepare  and  serve  as  above,  but  using  the  tape  macca- 
roni  instead  of  the  other,  and  only  blanching  it  five  minutes 
in  the  water. 

No.  200.  Ikrtle  Soup. 

This  soup,  the  delight  of  civic  corporations,  the  friend  of 
the  doctors,  and  enemy  of  the  alderman,  has  been,  and  per- 
haps ever  will  be,  the  leading  article  of  English  cookery.  Its 
great  complication  has  rendered  it  difficult  in  private  esta- 
blishments ;  I  shall  here,  however,  simplify  it  so  as  to  render 
it  practicable.  Make  choice  of  a  good  turtle,  weighing  from 
one  hundred  and  forty  to  one  hundred  and  eighty  pounds, 
hang  it  up  by  the  hind  fins  securely,  cut  off  the  head  and  let 
it  hang  all  night,  then  take  it  down,  lay  it  upon  its  back, 
and  with  a  sharp  knife  cut  out  the  belly,  leaving  the  fins, 
but  keeping  the  knife  nearly  close  to  the  upper  shell ;  take 
out  the  interior,  which  throw  away,  first  collecting  the  green 
fat  which  is  upon  it,  then  remove  the  fins  and  fleshy 
parts,  leaving  nothing  but  the  two  large  shells,  saw  the  top 
shell  into  four  and  the  bottom  one  in  halves ;  then  put  the 
whole  of  the  turtle,  including  the  head,  into  a  large  tiu-bot 
kettle,  and  cover  them  with  cold  water,  (or  if  no  kettle  large 
enough  blanch  it  in  twice),  place  it  upon  a  sharp  fire  and  let 


86  POTAGES. 

boil  five  minutes,  to  sufficiently  scald  it,  then  put  the  pieces 
into  a  tub  of  cold  water,  and  with  a  pointed  knife  take  off 
all  the  scales,  which  throw  away,  then  take  out  carefully  the 
whole  of  the  green  fat,  which  reserve,  place  the  remainder 
back  in  the  turbot  kettle,  where  let  it  simmer  until  the  meat 
comes  easily  from  the  shells  and  the  fins  are  tender,  then 
take  them  out  and  detach  all  the  glutinous  meat  from  the 
shells,  which  cut  into  square  pieces  and  reserve  until  re- 
quired. Fricandeau  and  a  few  other  entrees  were  sometimes 
made  from  the  fleshy  parts,  but  the  stringy  substance  of  that 
mock  meat  is  not  worth  eating,  and  few  stomachs  can  digest 
it. 

The  Stock, — For  a  turtle  of  the  above  size  (which  is  con- 
sidered the  best,  for  in  comparison  with  them  the  smaller 
ones  possess  but  Uttle  green  fat,)  cut  up  sixty  pounds  of 
knuckles  of  veal,  and  twenty  pounds  of  beef,  with  six  poimds 
of  lean  ham ;  well  butter  the  bottom  of  three  large  stewpans, 
and  put  an  equal  proportion  of  meat  in  eadi,  with  four 
onions,  one  carrot,  twenty  peppercorns,  ten  cloves,  two  blades 
of  mace,  an  ounce  of  salt,  and  a  pint  of  water ;  place  them 
upon  sharp  fires,  stirring  them  round  occasionally  until  the 
bottom  of  each  is  covered  with  a  brownish  glaze,  when  fill 
them  up  with  the  water  in  which  you  blanched  the  turtle^ 
taking  more  water  if  not  sufficient ;  when  boiUng  place  them 
at  the  comers  of  the  fires,  let  them  simmer  two  hours,  keep- 
ing them  always  well  skimmed ;  then  pass  the  stock  through 
a  fine  cloth  into  basins  to  cool.  The  stock  after  being 
dravm  down  in  the  three  separate  stewpans,  may  be  turned 
into  a  large  stock  pot,  but  my  reason  for  doing  it  in  smaller 
quantities  is,  that  it  requires  less  ebullition,  and  conse- 
quently the  aroma  of  the  different  ingredients  is  better  pre- 
served ;  after  having  passed  the  stock,  fill  them  up  again 
with  water,  let  them  simmer  four  hours,  when  pass  it  and 
convert  it  into  gla«e  as  directed  (No.  182). 


POTAOB8.  87 

I%e  Soup, — Put  three  pounds  of  butter  into  a  large  stew- 
pan  with  ten  sprigs  of  winter  savory,  ten  of  thyme,  ten  of 
basil,  ten  of  marjoram,  and  ten  bay-leaves ;  place  it  a  few 
minutes  over  a  moderate  fire,  but  do  not  let  it  change 
colour,  then  mix  in  four  pounds  and  a  half  of  flour  to  form 
a  roux,  which  keep  stirring  over  the  fire  until  it  becomes 
lightly  tinged,  when  take  it  off  the  fire  and  stir  it  occasion- 
ally until  partly  cold,  then  add  the  stock  which  should 
amotmt  to  ten  gallons,  place  it  again  over  the  fire  and  stir 
it  until  boiling,  then  place  it  at  the  comer,  let  it  simmer  two 
hours,  keeping  it  well  skimmed,  then  pass  it  through  a  tam. 
mie  into  a  clean  stewpan,  add  the  pieces  of  turtle,  place  it  at 
the  comer  of  the  fire  and  let  it  simmer  until  the  meat  is 
nearly  tender,  when  add  the  green  fat,  and  let  it  remain 
upon  the  fire  until  the  meat  is  quite  tender,  add  a  little 
more  salt  if  required,  and  put  it  by  in  basins  until  ready  for 
use ;  when  ready  to  serve  warm  the  quantity  required,  and 
to  each  tureenful  add  half  a  saltspoonful  of  cayenne,  and  a 
quarter  of  a  pint  di  Madeira  wine ;  serve  a  lemon  separate. 
To  make  soup  of  a  smaller  sized  turtle  you  must  of  course 
reduce  the  other  ingredients  in  proportion.  The  remains  of 
the  soup  put  in  jars  wiU  keep  a  considerable  time. 

No.  201.  Clear  Turtle  Soup. 

Is  now  perhaps  held  in  the  highest  estimation  among  real 
epicures,  and  when  artistically  prepared  is  indeed  worthy 
the  name  of  a  luxury ;  it  is  easier  digested  and  does  not 
clog  the  palate  so  much  as  when  made  thick,  indeed  a  pint 
of  this  soup  may  be  taken  before  a  good  dinner  (with  the 
assistance  of  milk  punch  not  too  much  iced  or  too  sweet) 
where  half  a  pint  of  the  other  might  spoil  the  remainder  of 
your  dinner.  I  shaU  here  describe  it  in  that  simple  man- 
ner which  win  render  it  easy  for  any  cook  not  only  to  un- 
derstand but  to  do  it  well.     Prepare  the  turtle  precisely  as 


88  P0TAGE8. 

in  the  last,  as  also  the  stocks,  merely  filling  them  up  when 
the  bottom  of  the  stewpan  is  covered  with  a  white  glaze 
instead  of  brown,  thus  keeping  the  stock  white  and  very 
clear ;  when  done,  pass  them  through  a  cloth  into  a  clean 
stewpan,  place  it  over  the  fire  and  reduce  it  one  third,  hav- 
ing previously  thrown  in  a  bunch  containing  ten  sprigs  of 
winter  savory,  ten  of  marjoram,  ten  of  thyme,  ten  of  basil, 
and  ten  bay-leaves,  then  mix  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of 
the  best  arrow  root  with  a  quart  of  cold  stock  and  a  pint  of 
wine,  (sherry),  pour  it  into  the  boiling  soup,  keeping  it  stir- 
red five  minutes,  then  pass  it  through  a  cloth  into  another 
stewpan,  add  the  pieces  of  meat  from  the  turtle  and  proceed 
as  for  the  thick  turtle,  but  omitting  the  cayenne ;  this  soup 
ought  to  be  quite  clear  and  of  a  greenish  hue. 

No.  202.  Mock  TwrUe  Soup, 

Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  at  the  bottom  of  a 
large  stewpan,  then  cut  up  twenty  pounds  of  knuckles  of 
veal  in  large  dice,  with  two  pounds  of  uncooked  ham ;  put 
them  into  a  stewpan  with  six  onions,  two  carrots,  two  heads 
of  celery,  twenty  peppercorns,  two  blades  of  mace,  two 
ounces  of  salt,  and  a  pint  of  water ;  set  it  over  a  sharp  fire, 
stirring  it  round  occasionally  until  the  bottom  of  the  stew- 
pan is  covered  with  a  light  brown  glaze,  then  lay  in  the  half 
of  a  scalded  calf's  head,  the  cheek  downwards,  and  fill  up 
the  stewpan  with  fourteen  quarts  of  water ;  when  boiling, 
place  it  at  the  comer  of  the  fixe,  where  let  it  simmer  two 
hours  and  a  half,  keeping  it  well  skimmed,  but  taking  out 
the  half  head  as  soon  as  it  becomes  flexible  to  the  touch, 
(which  will  take  about  the  time  the  stock  requires  to 
simmer),  remove  all  the  bone  and  press  the  head  flat  be- 
tween two  dishes  until  cold,  then  pass  the  stock  through  a 
doth  into  a  basin,  put  a  poimd  of  butter  into  another  stew- 
pan, with  four  sprigs  of  winter  savory,  four  of  thyme,  four 


P0TA6£S.  89 

of  marjoram,  four  of  basil,  and  four  bay-leaves,  fiy  them  a 
few  minutes  in  the  butter,  but  do  not  let  it  change  colour, 
then  mix  in  a  pound  and  a  half  of  flour,  stir  it  a  few  mi- 
nutes over  the  fire  until  becoming  slightly  tinged,  take  it 
&om  the  fire,  stirring  it  round  occasionally  until  partly  cold, 
when  pour  in  the  stock,  place  it  again  upon  the  fire,  keep- 
ing it  stirred  until  it  boils,  then  place  it  at  the  comer  and 
let  it  simmer  for  half  an  hour,  keeping  it  well  skimmed, 
season  with  a  little  cayenne  pepper,  and  more  salt  if  re- 
quired, and  pass  it  through  a  tammie  into  a  basin  until 
wanted.  When  the  calf's  head  is  cold  take  off  all  the  meat 
and  fat,  leaving  nothing  but  the  glutinous  part,  which  cut 
into  pieces  an  inch  square ;  when  ready  to  serve  the  soup 
put  about  three  quarts  (to  each  tureen),  into  a  stewpan  with 
twenty  of  the  pieces  of  head  and  a  glass  of  sherry,  boil  alto- 
gether fifteen  minutes,  when  skim  and  serve  very  hot.  This 
soup  may  likewise  be  thickened  without  a  roux,  as  directed 
for  brown  sauce  (No.  4).  Forcemeat  and  egg-balls  were 
formerly  served  in  this  soup,  the  latter  in  imitation  of  tur- 
tles' eggs,  but  better  imitations  of  buUets,  and  almost  as  in- 
digestible ;  the  omission  of  them  will,  I  am  certain,  prove 
beneficial,  for  whether  the  stomach  be  strong  or  delicate  it 
will  not  bear  loading  with  ammunition  of  that  description. 
He  above  soup  requires  to  be  a  light  brown  colour,  and  for 
thickness  it  must  adhere  lightly  to  the  back  of  the  spoon. 


90 


METHOD  OF  CLEANING  SALT-WATER  ITSH. 


Turbot 

Take  the  gills  out  carefully,  and  make  an  incision  close 
to  the  head  (on  the  back  of  the  fish)  from  which  take  out 
the  inside,  and  wash  it  well  with  salt  and  water.  Observe 
that  the  middle-sized  fish  are  the  best ;  if  too  large,  they 
sometimes  eat  tough  and  thready ;  this  fish  is  better  kept  a 
day  or  two  after  it  is  caught,  particularly  in  winter. 

BrUl 

Take  the  scales  off  the  belly,  and  proceed  the  same  as  for 
turbot,  but  cut  off  the  fins. 

John  Dory. 

Cut  off  the  fins,  take  out  the  giUs,  and  open  the  fish  at 
the  breast,  from  whence  take  out  the  inside ;  wash  it  but  as 
little  as  possible.  The  hver  of  this  fish  is  very  deUcate ;  but 
cannot  be  obtained  except  by  parties  living  near  where  they 
are  caught,  as  it  dissolves  in  a  very  short  time  if  kept. 

Cod-fish, 

Cut  and  pull  out  the  gills,  then  open  the  belly  and  take 
out  the  inside ;  wash  it  in  spring  water ;  if  this  fish  is  re- 
quired crimped,  you  must  clean  it  before  it  is  quite  dead 
(that  is  to  say,  whilst  life  remains  in  the  muscles  of  the  fish) ; 


P01SS0N8.  91 

cut  it  up  in  slices  three  inches  in  thickness,  and  lay  them 
in  spring  water  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour ;  or  if  the  fish  is 
wanted  to  be  served  whole,  merely  cut  incisions  upon  each 
side  to  the  bone,  about  two  inches  apart,  and  lay  it  in 
spring  water  three  quarters  of  an  hour. 

WTiitinffs. 

Cut  out  the  gills,  and  open  the  belly ;  wash  them  and 
cut  o£P  the  fins ;  if  for  frying,  cut  off  the  flaps  under  the 
neck  of  the  fish,  then  pass  your  knife  lightly  from  the  head 
to  the  tail,  down  the  back,  merely  cutting  through  the  skin ; 
then  detach  the  skin  at  the  head,  and  pull  it  all  off  one 
side  together,  and  then  the  other;  then  put  the  tail  into 
the  mouth,  and  run  a  peg  through  the  nose  and  tail,  to 
keep  it  in  that  position. 

Haddocks 

Are  cleaned  in  the  same  manner  as  whitings,  but  not 
skinned  or  trussed,  as  they  are  seldom  fried. 

Salmon, 

Cut  out  the  gills,  open  the  belly,  and  take  out  the  inside, 
which  wash  lightly;  scrape  off  the  scales,  and  cut  it  in 
slices,  or  serve  whole ;  if  it  is  to  be  crimped,  you  must  let 
the  scales  remain ;  crimp  it  in  the  same  manner  as  cod-fish. 
Clean  salmon-trout  in  the  same  way  as  salmon. 

Soles, 

Take  out  the  gills,  and  make  a  small  opening  in  the  belly 
of  the  fish ;  take  out  the  interior,  leaving  the  roe ;  then  de- 
tach the  skin  of  the  back  at  the  head ;  pull  it  all  off  the 
fish  together,  and  cut  off  the  fins. 


92  poissoNs. 


Mackerel. 

Cut  the  gills,  and  pull  them  out  carefully,  so  that  the 
inside  of  the  fish  comes  with  them;  wipe  it  well,  cut  off 
the  fins,  and  trim  the  tail. 

Red  Mullets. 

Scale  them  very  lightly,  or  you  will  destroy  all  the  bloom ; 
pull  out  the  gills,  and  part  of  the  inside  will  come  with 
them. 

Gurfieta. 

Scrape  off  all  the  scales,  cut  the  fins  off  close,  pull  out 
the  gills,  open  the  bellies,  and  take  out  the  inside ;  wash  it 
well,  and  scrape  the  parts  where  the  blood  rests,  or  when 
cooked  it  will  look  like  a  bruise. 

Herrings, 

Scrape  them,  pull  out  the  gills,  and  the  inside  with  them, 
leaving  the  roe  unbroken ;  wipe  them  well. 

Smelts. 

This  fish  is  so  very  delicate,  that  it  requires  every  atten- 
tion in  cleaning  them :  pull  out  the  gills,  and  the  inside  will 
come  with  them ;  wipe  very  lightly. 


METHOD  OF  CLEANING  FRESH-WATER  FISH. 

Carp. 

Have  a  sharp-pointed  kitchen  knife,  put  the  point  care- 
fully under  the  scales  (between  the  scales  and  the  skin) ;  at 


poissoNs.  93 

the  tail  of  the  fish  pass  the  knife  gently  up  the  back  to 
the  head,  diyiding  the  scales  from  the  skin  carefully ;  you 
may  then  take  off  the  whole  of  the  scales  m  one  piece  from 
each  side,  and  your  fish  will  look  very  white ;  (most  cooks 
are  acquainted  with  this  mode,  but  should  it  be  too  difficult 
for  some,  they  can  scrape  it  in  the  common  way ;  it  will 
not  look  so  white,  but  will  eat  equally  good ;)  then  make 
a  small  incision  in  the  belly,  close  to  the  bladder ;  pull  out 
the  giUs  with  a  cloth,  and  the  inside  with  them ;  but  if  any 
remains,  take  it  out  of  the  incision,  but  be  careful  not  to 
disturb  the  roe  or  break  the  gall ;  lay  it  in  spring  water  half 
an  hour  to  disgorge ;  dry  it  with  a  cloth. 

Pike, 

Take  off  the  scales  as  you  would  a  carp ;  make  two  in« 
dsions  in  the  belly,  a  small  one  close  to  the  bladder,  and  a 
latter  one  above ;  pull  one  of  the  gills  at  the  time  with  a 
strong  cloth,  and  if  the  inside  does  not  come  with  them, 
take  them  out  of  the  incisions,  and  wash  it  well ;  the  cutting 
of  the  fins  is  a  matter  of  taste,  but  it  is  usually  done. 

Trout 

Are  sometimes  served  with  the  scales  on,  but  they  are 
usually  taken  off;  clean  Hke  salmon. 

Tench 

Are  very  difficult  fish  to  clean ;  the  best  way  is  to  form 
them  in  the  shape  of  the  letter  S,  and  instead  of  scraping 
them  from  the  tail  to  the  head,  like  other  fish,  scrape  up- 
wards fit)m  the  belly  to  the  back  with  an  oyster  knife,  the 
scales  running  that  way ;  take  out  the  gills,  open  the  belly, 
take  out  the  inside,  and  wash  it  clean. 


94  POI880NS. 


Perch 

Are  vety  difBicult  to  scrape ;  they  must  be  done  almost 
alive :  form  the  fish  like  an  S,  and  scrape  it  with  an  oyster- 
knife;  open  the  belly  and  take  out  the  inside;  pull  out 
the  gills,  and  wash  well ;  when  large,  they  are  often  boiled 
with  the  scales  on,  and  they  are  taken  off  afterwards,  which 
is  much  easier ;  but  it  depends  upon  how  they  are  to  be 
cooked. 

Eels. 

Kill  them  by  knocking  their  heads  upon  a  block  or  any- 
thing hard ;  then  take  the  head  in  your  hand  with  a  cloth, 
aud  just  cut  through  the  skin  round  the  neck,  and  turn  it 
down  about  an  inch ;  then  puU  the  head  with  one  hand  and 
the  skin  with  the  other,  it  will  come  off  with  facihty ;  open 
the  belly  and  take  out  the  inside ;  cut  off  the  fins  and  those 
bristles  that  run  up  the  back ;  if  the  eel  is  lai^  and  oily, 
hold  it  over  a  charcoal  fire,  moving  it  quickly  all  the  while ; 
but  the  small  ones  will  not  require  it.  Nothing  is  harder 
to  kill  than  eels ;  and  it  is  only  by  killing,  or  rather  stunning 
them  in  the  manner  above  described  that  they  suffer  the 
least. 

Lampreys 

Are  cleaned  in  the  same  manner  as  eels^  but  do  not  re- 
quire skinning. 


95 


POI8SON8. 

No.  203.  Turbot,  to  6oil. 

A  turbot  must  be  well  rubbed  over  with  salt  and  lemon 
before  it  is  put  in  the  water ;  have  ready  a  large  turbot- 
kettle  half  full  of  cold  water,  and  to  every  six  quarts  of 
water,  put  one  pound  of  salt,  lay  the  fish  in  and  place  it 
over  a  moderate  fire ;  a  turbot  of  eight  pounds  may  be 
allowed  to  simmer  twenty  minutes  or  rather  more,  thus  it  will 
be  about  three  quarters  of  an  hour  altogether  in  the  water ; 
when  it  begins  to  crack  very  slightly,  lift  it  up  with  the 
dramer  and  cover  a  clean  white  napkin  over  it ;  if  you  in- 
tend serving  the  sauce  over  your  fish,  dish  it  up  without  a 
napkin ;  if  not,  dish  it  upon  a  napkin  and  have  ready  some 
good  sprigs  of  double  parsley  to  garnish  it  with,  and  serve 

very  hot. 

No.  204.  Turbot  a  la  Oreme, 

Cook  the  turbot  as  above  and  dish  it  without  a  napkin, 
(but  be  careM  that  it  is  well  drained  before  you  place  it  on 
the  dish,  and  absorb  what  water  runs  from  the  fish  with  a 
napkin,  for  that  liquor  would  spoil  your  sauce,  and  cause  it 
to  lose  that  creamy  substance  which  it  ought  to  retain  ;  this 
remark  applies  to  all  kinds  of  fish  that  is  served  up  with  the 
sauce  over  it) ;  then  put  one  pint  of  cream  on  the  fire  in  a 
good  sized  stewpan,  and  when  it  is  nearly  simmering  add 
half  a  pound  of  fresh  butter,  and  stir  it  as  quickly  as  possible 
until  the  butter  is  melted,  but  the  cream  must  not  boil ;  then 
add  a  liaison  of  three  yolks  of  eggs,  season  with  a  Uttle 
salt,  pepper,  and  lemon  juice,  pour  as  much  over  the  turbot 
as  will  cover  it,  and  serve  the  remainder  in  a  boat ;  or  if  not 
approved  of,  dish  the  fish  on  a  napkin,  garnish  with  parsley, 
and  serve  the  sauce  in  a  boat.  This  sauce  must  not  be 
made  until  the  moment  it  is  wanted. 


96  POI880NS. 

No.  205.  Turbot  Sauce  homard. 

Cook  the  turbot  as  before,  then  take  an  ounce  of  lobster 
spawn  and  pound  it  in  a  mortar  with  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  fresh  butter,  rub  it  through  a  hair  sieve  with  a 
wooden  spoon  upon  a  plate,  have  ready  a  pint  of  good 
melted  butter  nearly  boiling,  into  which  put  the  red  butter, 
and  season  with  a  teaspoonful  of  essence  of  anchovy,  a 
Httle  Harvey  sauce,  cayenne  pepper,  and  salt,  then  cut  up 
the  flesh  of  the  lobster  in  dice  and  put  in  the  sauce ;  serve 
it  in  a  boat  very  hot. 

No.  206.  Turbot  a  la  HoUandaiae. 

Cook  the  turbot  as  before,  and  dish  without  a  napkin ; 
then  put  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  in  a  stewpan  with  half  a 
pound  of  fresh  butter,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  half  a  teaspoon- 
fill  of  salt  and  a  quarter  of  one  of  white  pepper ;  set  it  over 
a  slow  fire  stirring  it  the  whole  time  quickly ;  when  the 
butter  is  half  melted  take  it  off  the  fire  for  a  few  seconds, 
(stiU  keeping  it  stirred),  till  the  butter  is  quite  melted,  then 
place  it  again  on  the  fire  till  it  thickens,  then  add  a  quart 
of  melted  butter,  stir  it  again  on  the  fire,  (but  do  not  let 
it  boil,  or  it  would  curdle  and  be  useless),  then  pass  it 
through  a  tammie  into  another  stewpan,  make  it  hot  in  the 
bain  marie,  stirring  all  the  time  pour  it  over  the  fish  or 
serve  in  a  boat.  The  sauce  must  be  rather  sharp,  add 
more  seasoning  if  required. 

No.  207.  Turbot  a  la  Mazarine. 

Cook  the  fish  as  above,  then  have  all  the  spawn  from  two 
fine  hen  lobsters ;  if  not  sufficient  get  some  Uve  spawn  from 
the  fishmonger's,  making  altogether  about  two  ounces, 
pound  it  well  in  the  mortar  and  mix  it  with  half  a  pound  of 
fresh  butter,  rub  it  through  a  hair  sieve,  place  it  upon 


POI880NS.  97 

ice  until  firm,  then  put  it  in  a  stewpan  with  the  yolks  of 
four  eggs,  a  Uttle  pepper,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and 
four  tablespoonfids  of  lemon  juice,  place  it  over  the  fire 
and  proceed  as  for  the  sauce  HoUandaise,  adding  the  same 
quantity  of  melted  butter,  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of  essence 
of  anchovy,  pass  it  through  a  tammie  into  a  clean  stew- 
pan  to  make  it  hot,  dish  the  fish  without  a  napkin,  soak- 
ing up  the  water  in  the  dish  with  a  clean  cloth,  and  pour 
the  sauce  over  it ;  be  careful  the  sauce  does  not  boil  or  it 
will  curdle. 

This  dish  is  one  of  the  most  elegant,  and  is  the  best  way 
of  dressiDg  a  turbot,  for  I  have  always  remarked  that  not- 
withstanding its  simpUcity,  it  has  given  the  greatest  satis- 
faction, both  for  its  deUcateness  and  appearance,  causing  no 
trouble  only  requiring  care. 

No.  208.  Turbot  en  matelote  Normande. 

Procure  a  smallish  turbot,  one  weighing  about  ten  pounds 
would  be  the  best,  cut  ofi*  part  of  the  fins  and  make  an  in- 
cision in  the  back,  butter  a  saute-pan,  (large  enough  to  lay 
the  turbot  in  quite  flat),  and  put  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
chopped  eschalots,  three  glasses  of  sherry  or  Madeira,  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  Utiie  white  pepper,  and  about  half  a 
pint  of  white  broth  into  it,  then  lay  in  the  turbot  and  cover 
it  over  with  white  sauce  (No.  7),  start  it  to  boil  over  a  slow 
fire,  then  put  it  into  a  moderate  oven  about  an  hour,  try 
whether  it  is  done  with  a  skewer,  if  the  skewer  goes  through 
it  easily  it  is  done,  if  not,  bake  it  a  little  longer,  then  give 
it  a  light  brovm  tinge  with  the  salamander,  place  the  fish 
upon  a  dish  to  keep  it  hot,  then  put  a  pint  of  white  sauce 
in  the  saute-pan  and  boil  it  fifteen  minutes,  stirring  it  all  the 
time,  then  pass  it  through  a  tammie  into  a  clean  stewpan, 
and  add  a  little  cayenne  pepper,  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
essence  of  anchovies,  two  dozen  of  oysters,  (blanched),  two 

7 


98  POI880N8. 

dozen  of  small  mushrooms,  two  dozen  quenelles  (No.  120), 
six  spoonfuls  of  milk,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  reduce  it 
till  about  the  thickness  of  bechamel  sauce,  then  add  eight 
tablespoonfuls  of  cream  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  pour  over 
the  turbot ;  have  ready  twenty  croutons  of  bread  cut  trian- 
gularly frora  the  crust  of  a  French  roll,  and  fried  in  butter ; 
place  them  round  the  dish  and  pass  the  salamander  over  it 
and  serve. 

No.  209.  Turbot  en  Matelote  vierge. 

Boil  a  turbot  as  before,  dish  it  up  without  a  napkin,  and 
have  ready  the  following  sauce ;  chop  two  onions  very  fine 
and  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  four  glasses  of  sherry,  a 
sole  cut  in  four  pieces,  two  cloves,  one  blade  of  mace,  a 
Uttle  grated  nutmeg,  some  parsley,  and  one  bay-leaf ;  boil 
altogether  five  minutes,  then  add  a  quart  of  white  sauce 
(No.  7),  boil  twenty  minutes  stirring  all  the  time,  then  put 
a  tammie  over  a  clean  stewpan,  and  colander  over  the  tam- 
mie,  pass  the  sauce,  take  the  meat  off  the  sole  and  rub  it 
through  the  tammie  with  two  spoons  into  the  sauce,  add 
half  a  pint  of  broth,  boil  it  again  until  it  is  rather  thick, 
season  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  of  sugar,  the  juice 
of  a  lemon,  and  finish  with  half  a  pint  of  cream  whipped, 
mix  it  quickly  and  pour  over  the  fish ;  garnish  with  white- 
bait and  fried  oysters  (that  have  been  egged  and  bread- 
crumbed,)  or,  if  there  is  no  white-bait,  smelts  will  do. 

No.  210.  Turbot  ala  Beligieme. 

Dress  the  turbot  as  before,  and  cover  with  HoUandaise 
sauce  (No.  66) ;  chop  some  Tarragon  chervil,  and  one  French 
truffle,  which  sprinkle  over  it ;  garnish  with  hard-boiled  eggs 
cut  in  four  lengthwise  and  laid  round. 


r 


poissoNS.  99 

i 

No.  211.  7\irbot  ala  Creme  {ffratine). 

Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  flour  in  a  stewpan,  mix  it 
gently  with  a  quart  of  milk,  be  careful  that  it  is  not  lumpy, 
then  add  two  eschalots,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  one  bay-leaf, 
and  a  sprig  of  thjrme  tied  together,  for  if  put  in  loose  it 
would  spoil  the  colour  of  your  sauce,  (which  should  be  quite 
white,)  then  add  a  Uttle  grated  nutmeg,  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt  and  a  quarter  ditto  of  pepper,  place  it  over  a  sharp  fire 
and  stir  it  the  whole  time,  boil  it  till  it  forms  rather  a  thick- 
ish  paste,  then  take  it  bff  the  fire  and  add  half  a  pound  of 
fresh  butter  and  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  mix  them  well  into 
the  sauce  and  pass  it  through  a  tammie,  then  having  the 
remains  of  a  turbot  left  from  a  previous  dinner,  you  lay 
some  of  the  sauce  on  the  bottom  of  a  dish,  then  a  layer  of 
the  turbot,  (without  any  bone,)  season  it  lightly  with  pep- 
per and  salt,  then  put  another  layer  of  sauce,  then  fish  and 
sauce  again  until  it  is   all  used,   finishing  with   sauce; 
sprinkle  the  top  hghtly  with  bread  cnunbs  and  grated  Par- 
mesan cheese ;  put  it  in  a  moderate  oven  half  an  hour,  give 
it  a  light  brown  colour  with  the  salamander  and  serve  it  in 
the  dish  it  is  baked  on. 

No.  212.  Ikirbot  a  la  Poissomere, 

Boil  a  turbot  as  before,  and  take  it  up  when  only  one 
third  cooked,  then  put  in  a  large  saute-pan  or  baking  sheet 
forty  button  onions  peeled  and  cut  in  rings,  two  ounces  of 
butter,  two  glasses  of  port  wine,  the  peel  of  half  a  lemon, 
and  four  spoonfuls  of  chopped  mushrooms,  then  lay  in  the 
turbot  and  cover  with  a  quart  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1), 
set  it  in  a  slow  oven  for  an  hour,  then  take  it  out  and  place 
it  carefully  on  a  dish,  place  the  fish  again  in  the  oven 
to  keep  hot,  then  take  the  lemon  peel  out  of  the  sauce  and 
pour  the  sauce  into  a  stewpan,  reduce  it  till  rather  thick, 


100  POTSSONS. 

then  add  twenty  muscles,  (blanched),  twenty  heads  of  mush- 
rooms, and  about  thirty  fine  prawns  ;  when  ready  to  serve 
add  one  ounce  of  anchovy  butter,  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar, 
and  a  little  cayenne  pepper,  stir  it  in  quickly  but  do  not  let 
it  boil ;  pour  the  sauce  over  the  fish  and  serve  very  hot. 

No.  213.  Turbota  la  Creme  d'AncAois. 

Boil  the  turbot  and  dish  it  without  a  napkin,  then  pour 
the  following  sauce  over  it  and  serve  inunediately :  put 
a  quart  of  melted  butter  into  a  stewpan,  place  it  on  the 
fire  and  when  nearly  boiling  add  six  ounces  of  anchovy 
butter  (No.  78),  and  four  spoonfuls  of  whipped  cream,  mix  it 
quickly  but  do  not  let  it  boil ;  when  poured  over  the  fish 
sprinkle  some  chopped  capers  and  gherkins  over  it. 

No.  214.  S?nall  Tkrbota  la  Meuniere. 

Crimp  the  turbot  by  making  incisions  with  a  sharp  knife, 
about  an  inch  apart,  in  the  belly  part  of  the  fish,  then  rub 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  onions  and  four  of  salt  into 
the  incisions,  pour  a  little  salad  oil  over  it  and  dip  it  in 
flour,  then  put  it  on  a  gridiron  a  good  distance  from  the 
fire — ^the  belly  downwards — ^let  it  remain  twenty  minutes, 
then  turn  it  by  placing  another  gridiron  over  it,  and  turn- 
ing the  fish  over  on  to  it,  place  it  over  the  fire  for  about 
twenty-five  minutes,  or  longer  if  required ;  when  done  place 
it  upon  a  dish  and  have  ready  the  following  sauce  :  put  six 
ounces  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  with  ten  spoonfids  of  melted 
butter,  place  it  over  the  fire,  moving  the  stevirpan  round 
when  very  hot,  but  not  quite  in  oil,  add  a  liaison  (No.  119) 
of  two  yolks  of  eggs,  a  little  pepper,  salt,  and  the  juice  of 
a  lemon,  mix  it  quickly  and  pour  over  the  fish ;  serve  di- 
rectly and  very  hot.  The  fish  must  be  kept  as  white  as 
possible.  For  the  above  purpose  the  turbot  should  not  ex- 
ceed eight  pounds  in  weight. 


P0ISS0N8,  101 

No.  215.  TurbotauyratinalaProvengale. 

This  dish  is  made  from  fish  left  from  a  previous  dinner ; 
put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  onions,  and  two  of  chop* 
ped  mushrooms  into  a  stewpan  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
salad  oil ;  place  it  over  a  moderate  fire  five  minutes,  stirring 
it  with  a  wooden  spoon ;  then  add  three  pints  of  brown 
sauce  (No.  1),  and  reduce  it  one  third,  then  add  a  clove 
of  scraped  garlic,  a  teaspoonful  of  Harvey  sauce,  one  of 
essence  of  anchovy,  a  little  sugar,  a  little  cayenne,  and  two 
yolks  of  eggs,  pour  a  little  sauce  on  the  dish  you  serve  it 
on,  then  a  layer  of  fish  hghtly  seasoned  with  pepper  and 
salt,  then  more  sauce  and  fish  again,  finishing  with  sauce, 
sprinkle  bread  crumbs  over  it  and  place  it  in  a  moderate 
oven  half  an  hour,  or  tiD  it  is  very  hot  through,  brown  it 
lightly  with  the  salamander  and  serve  very  hot.  The  gar- 
lic may  be  omitted  if  objected  to,  but  it  would  lose  the 
flavour  firom  which  it  is  named. 

No.  216.  Brill  au  naturel. 

This  fish  though  not  so  much  thought  of  as  turbot  is 
very  delicate  eating,  and  being  cheaper  may  be  more  freely 
used  for  fiDets,  &c.,  and  may  be  recommended  cooked  in 
the  following  ways : — Boil  a  brill  as  you  would  a  turbot, 
but  the  flesh  being  softer  than  that  fish  you  put  it  in  boil- 
ing water ;  if  the  fish  weighs  from  four  to  five  pounds  put 
it  into  six  quarts  of  water  in  which  there  is  one  pound  of 
salt,  draw  the  kettle  to  the  comer  of  the  fire  and  let  it  sim- 
mer for  half  an  hour,  try  whether  it  is  done  as  you  would 
a  turbot,  drain  it  and  dish  it  on  a  napkin ;  garnish  with 
parsley,  and  serve  with  shrimp  sauce  (No.  73). 

No.  217.  Brill  a  la  puree  de  Capres. 
Take  a  very  fresh  fish,  and  an  hour  before  cooking  rub  a 


1 

I 


102  ?OISSONS. 

good  handful  of  salt  on  it,  then  boil  it  as  before,  dish  it 
without  a  napkin,  and  have  ready  the  following  sauce : — 
put  a  pint  and  a  half  of  melted  butter  into  a  stewpan,  then 
have  ready  prepared  three  tablespoonfuls  of  capers,  and  two 
of  gherkins,  with  a  little  boiled  spinach  pounded  in  a  mor- 
tar with  four  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  and  passed  through  a 
hair  sieve,  and  when  the  melted  butter  is  nearly  boiling  stir 
it  quickly  into  it ;  finish  it  with  a  httle  essence  of  anchovy, 
a  Uttle  cayenne  pepper,  aud  a  httle  sugar,  and  pour  over 
the  fish  when  ready  to  serve.  The  butter  requires  to  lay 
upon  ice  until  quite  hard. 

No.  218.  Brill  a  la  Hollandaise, 

Boil  the  fish  as  above  and  proceed  as  for  turbot  a  la  Hol- 
landaise ;  see  that  article. 

No.  219.  BriU  aux  Cdprea, 

Boil  the  fish  and  put  twelve  tablespoonfuls  of  melted 
butter  into  a  stewpan,  place  it  on  the  fire  and  when  nearly 
boiling  mix  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter  and  three  tablespoon- 
fuls of  capers  with  a  Utile  pepper  and  salt,  dish  on  a  napkin 
and  pour  the  sauce  over  or  serve  in  a  boat. 

No.  220.  BriU  a  la  Meuniere, 

Proceed  as  for  Turbot  a  la  meuniere,  (No.  214,)  alloii^ing 
sufficient  time  according  to  the  size  of  the  fish. 

No.  221.  Brill  sauce  Homard. 
Proceed  as  for  turbot  sauce  homard,  (No.  205.) 

No.  222.  BriU  a  la  BiUin^sgate. 

Broil  the  fish  as  for  brill  a  la  meuniere  and  dish  it  with- 
out a  napkin  \  then  have  ready  the  following  sauce ;-  —blanch 
a  pint  of  muscles,  beard  them  and  take  out  the  black  spots. 


FOiSSONS.  108 

then  put  two  chopped  eschalots  in  a  stewpan  with  one 
onnce  of  butter,  pass  it  over  the  fire  five  minutes,  then  add 
half  a  tablespoonfol  of  flour,  mix  with  it  the  liquor  fix>m 
the  muscles,  half  a  pint  of  milk,  and  half  a  gill  of  cream, 
a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  a  httle  white  pepper,  and  some  grated 
nutm^,  boil  it  until  rather  thick,  pass  it  through  a  tammie, 
then  add  two  pats  of  butter,  a  few  drops  of  essence  of  an- 
chovy and  the  muscles ;  pour  over  the  fish  and  serve  very 
hot. 

No.  223.  BriU  au  ffratin. 

See  turbot  a  la  creme  gratine  (No.  211,)  and  proceed  in 
the  same  mann^. 

No.  224.  BriU  a  la  creme  d^Jnchois. 
Proceed  as  for  turbot  a  la  creme  d'anchois  (No.  213.) 

No.  225.  meU  de  BriU  a  la  Juive. 

PiUet  a  brill  by  passing  a  good  knife  from  the  head  to 
the  tail  of  the  fish  close  to  the  middle  bone,  hold  your 
knife  in  a  slanting  direction  keeping  it  close  to  the 
bone  (without  cutting  the  bone)  until  you  reach  the  fins, 
proceed  in  like  manner  until  you  have  got  off  all  the  meat 
from  the  bones,  then  cut  each  fillet  in  halves,  or  in 
four  pieces  if  they  are  large,  egg  and  bread-crumb  each 
piece,  then  dip  them  in  clarified  butter  and  again  bread- 
crumb them ;  when  ready  fry  them  of  a  yellowish  brown  in 
salad  oil,  dish  them  upon  a  napkin,  and  have  a  good  lot  of 
fried  parsley,  which  place  in  the  middle,  dishing  your  fillets 
round  it,  serve  with  a  sauce  Hollandaise  (see  Turbot  a  la 
Hollandaise,  No.  206,)  in  which  you  introduce  a  tablespoon- 
fiil  of  the  best  salad  oil.  To  fry  fish  in  oil  you  merely  re- 
quire to  cover  the  bottom  of  your  saute-pan  and  let  it  get 
rery  hot  before  you  put  the  fish  in  it. 


104  P01S80NS. 

No.  226.  Filets  de  Brill  en  niatelole. 

Fillet  and  &y  the  &h  as  above,  dish  it  on  a  border  of 
mashed  potatoes,  and  place  the  following  sauce  in  the 
centre : — ^peel  about  forty  button  onions,  and  pass  them  in 
a  stewpan  with  two  ounces  of  butter  and  a  little  sugar ; 
when  of  a  light  brown  colour  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
wine,  set  it  on  the  fire  five  minutes,  then  add  a  quart  of 
brown  sauce  and  eight  tablespoonfuls  of  stock,  set  it  on  the 
comer  of  the  fire  to  boil  forty  minutes,  skim  it,  then  add 
twenty  quenelles  (No.  1 20),  twenty  heads  of  mushrooms,  a 
teaspoonful  of  essence  of  anchovy,  one  of  Harvey  sauce,  and 
one  of  mushroom  catsup,  with  a  Uttle  cayenne  pepper. 

No.  227.  JoAn  Doree. 

Of  all  fish  this  one  is  perhaps  the  most  delicious,  although 
but  recently  in  vogue ;  their  appearance  has  been  a  great 
objection  to  them ;  considering  this  I  have  studied  to  dis- 
cover several  ways  of  dressing  them  to  improve  their  ap- 
pearance and  flavour ;  to  dress  them  plain  you  boil  them  in 
the  same  way  as  brills,  allowing  about  the  same  time  for  the 
same  weight,  and  ascertain  when  done  by  the  same  means ; 
serve  on  a  napkin ;  garnish  the  parts  that  are  broken  with 
double  parsley,  and  serve  anchovy  sauce  in  a  boat. 

No.  228.  John  Doree  a  V  OrUannaise. 

Procure  a  very  fresh  dory  about  five  pounds  in  weight, 
then  have  ready  half  a  pound  of  forcemeat  of  fish  (No.  1 24), 
^n  a  basin,  with  which  mix  a  little  chopped  thyme  and 
parsley,  season  rather  high,  stuff  your  dory  with  it,  lay 
it  in  a  fish  kettle  with  three  onions,  a  carrot,  turnip, 
head  of  celery,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay-leaf,  one 
tablespoonful  of  salt,  four  cloves,  two  glasses  of  port  wine, 
two   of  vinegar,  and  four  quarts   of  water,   set  it  owex 


POI8SONS.  106 

a  slow  fire  for  an  hour  to  stew,  drain  it  well  and  dish  it 
without  a  napkin,  have  ready  the  following  sauce : — ^put 
four  yolks  of  eggs  in  a  stewpan  with  half  a  pound  of 
butter,  a  saitspoonful  of  salt,  a  little  white  pepper,  and  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  tarragon  vinegar;  stir  it  over  the  fire 
(with  a  wooden  spoon,)  till  the  butter  is  melted  and  thickens, 
then  add  an  ounce  of  lobster  spawn  (that  has  been  pounded 
with  an  ounce  of  butter  and  passed  through  a  hair  sieve), 
mix  it  well  together,  then  add  eighteen  spoonfuls  of  bech- 
amel sauce  (No.  7),  stir  it  over  the  fire  till  it  becomes  red 
and  thickish,  then  add  a  few  drops  of  essence  of  anchovy, 
and  a  Uttle  cayenne  pepper,  with  a  pinch  of  sugar,  pass  it 
through  a  tammie,  then  add  six  gherkins  cut  in  large  fillets, 
and  thirty  fiUets  of  boiled  beet-root  the  same  size  as  the 
fillets  of  gherkin ;  pour  it  over  the  fish,  and  garnish  with 
craw  fish,  and  sprigs  of  parsley  laid  between. 

No.  229.  John  Doree  en  matelote  Mariniere. 

Flour  the  fish  and  boil  or  stew  it  as  above,  dish  it  with- 
out a  napkin,  then  have  ready  a  matelotte  sauce  (see  fillets 
of  brill  en  matelotte.  No.  226,)  to  which  add  three  dozen  of 
oysters  that  have  been  blanched  and  bearded;  pour  the 
sauce  over  the  fish  and  serve  very  hot. 

No.  230.  John  Doree  a  la  Cremiere. 

Boil  the  fish,  put  a  pint  of  milk  with  the  water  you  boil 
it  in,  dish  it  on  a  napkin,  garnish  with  some  large  sprigs  of 
-double  parsley,  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  put  half  a 
pint  of  double  cream  in  a  stewpan,  and  when  it  is  nearly 
boiling,  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter ;  shake  the 
stewpan  round  with  your  hand  till  the  butter  is  melted, 
then  add  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  a  saitspoonful  of  salt,  and 
half  ditto  of  white  pepper ;  serve  in  a  boat  very  hot. 


106  POI6SON8. 

No.  231.  John  Doree  en  Ravigote, 

Boil  the  fish  as  above,  and  dish  it  up  without  a  uapkin  ; 
have  ready  the  following  sauce :  put  three  yolks  of  eggs  in  a 
stewpan,  with  six  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  three  tablespoonfiils 
of  Tarragon  vinegar,  a  sakspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  little  white 
pepper ;  stir  it  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes  until  the 
butter  melts,  and  it  becomes  thickish ;  then  add  eighteen 
spoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  stir  it  over  the  fire,  but  do  not 
let  it  boil;  pass  it  through  a  tammie,  then  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  chopped  tarragon  and  chervil  mixed ;  place  it 
again  over  the  fire,  keeping  it  stirred,  and  when  veiy  hot 
pour  it  over  the  fish,  and  garnish  with  a  few  sprigs  of 
chervil.     This  sauce  requires  to  be  rather  thick,  to  mask 
the  fish. 

No.  232.  John  Doree  a  la  puree  de  Crevettes. 

Boil  the  fish  as  usual,  and  dish  without  a  napkin;  have 
ready  the  following  sauce :  pick  and  wasb^^^^^j^t  of  fresh 
prawns,  pound  them  in  a  mortar  with  half  &':pound  of 
fresh  butter,  and  rub  them  through  a  s}£^;  then  put  twelve 
spoonfcds  of  bechamel  sauce  (No.  7)  ^  a  stewpaci,  iM}$k 
twelve  of  melted  butter ;  place  it  over  thi  fire,  and  when  it 
boils,  stir  the  butter  and  prawns  into  it ;  pour  the  sauce 
over  the  fish,  and  strew  chopped  lobster  over. 

No.  233.  John  Doree  a  la  Bateliere. 

Boil  the  fish  as  usual,  and  dish  it  up  without  a  napkin ; 
have  ready  the  following  sauce :  peel  fifty  button  onions, 
pass  them  in  a  stev^pan  with  a  Uttle  sifted  sugar  and  butter, 
but  keep  them  quite  white;  then  add  a  glass  of  sherry, 
twenty  spoonfuls  of  bechamel  sauce,  and  a  bunch  of  parsley; 
set  it  on  the  comer  of  the  stove  to  simmer  till  the  onions 
are  quite  done  (if  the  sauce  is  too  thick,  add  a  few  spoonfuls 


P0I8S0NS.  107 

of  white  stock) ;  then  throw  in  twenty  heads  of  mushrooms, 
a  dozen  of  blanched  oysters,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  essence 
of  anchovies ;  take  out  the  bunch  of  parsley,  finish  with  a 
little  cream,  pour  the  sauce  over  the  fish,  and  salamander 
of  a  light  colour. 

No.  234.  John  Doree  a  la  Creme  {^ratine.) 
Proceed  as  for  Turbot  a  la  cieme  gratine  (No.  211). 

No.  235.  John  Doree  a  la  HoUandaiae. 
Proceed  as  for  Turbot  a  la  Hollandaise  (No.  206). 

No.  236.  Saumon. 

The  Thames  salmon  used  to  be  reckoned  the  most  re- 
cherdie ;  but  since  so  many  steam-boats  have  been  intro- 
duced upon  the  surface  of  that  noble  river,  and  the  tunnel 
has  been  built,  introducing  their  greatest  enemies,  human 
beings,  both  above  and  below  their  liquid  habitation,  they 
have  fled  to  the  ocean  for  protection,  and  are  now  no  longer 
discernible  fironi  their  once  conmioner  brethren.  But  the 
Severn  salmon  is  now  esteemed  the  best ;  the  crimped  is  in 
the  highest  favQur  with  the  gourmets.  It  would  be 
useless  to  make  any  observations  about  this  fish,  as  it  is 
well  known  to  range  as  one  of  the  highest  order. 

No.  237.  Saumon  au  natureL 

Put  your  fish  in  cold  water  (using  a  pound  of  salt  to 
every  six  quarts  of  water),  let  it  be  weU  covered  with  water, 
and  set  it  over  a  moderate  fire ;  when  it  begins  to  simmer, 
set  it  on  the  side  of  the  fire.  If  the  fish  weighs  four  pounds, 
let  it  simmer  half  an  hour ;  if  eight  pounds,  three  quarters 
of  an  hour,  and  so  on  in  proportion ;  dish  it  on  a  napkin, 
and  serve  lobster  or  shrimp  sauce  in  a  lioat.  (See  those 
sauces,  Nos.  68  and  73.) 


108  poidSONS. 

No.  238.   Cmnped  Salmon  au  natureL 

Have  two  quarts  of  water  boiling  in  a  stewpan,  with  half 
a  pound  of  salt,  in  which  place  two  sUces  of  cmnped  salmon 
(if  more  than  two  required,  put  more  water  in  proportion;, 
boU  them  quickly  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  or  twenty  mi- 
nutes ;  try  the  bone  in  the  centre,  and  if  it  leaves  easily, 
the  fish  is  done;  avoid  leaving  the  fish  in  water  after 
it  is  done,  as  it  destroys  its  aroma;  but  if  not  ready, 
cover  it  over  with  a  wet  napkin,  and  stand  it  in  the  hot 
closet;  dish  on  a  napkin,  and  serve  either  lobster  or 
shrimp  sauce  with  it.     (See  Nos.  68  and  78.) 

No.  239.  Saumon  en  matelote  Mariniere. 

Rub  two  or  three  large  sUces  of  sahnon  with  oil,  and  dip 
them  in  flour ;  then  put  them  on  a  gridiron  over  a  moderate 
fire ;  when  one  side  is  done  turn  them  carefully,  and  when 
the  bone  will  leave  easily,  they  are  done ;  dish  them  without 
a  napkin,  and  pour  a  matelote  sauce  (No.  62)  over  them. 

240.  Saumon  a  la  Mazarine. 

Boil  the  salmon  in  slices,  as  previously ;  dish  it  without 
a  napkin,  and  pour  a  Mazarine  sauce  over  them  (see  Turbot 
a  la  Mazarine,  No.  207.) 

No.  241.  Saumon  a  la  HoUandaise. 

Boil  the  salmon  as  before ;  if  in  sUces,  dish  them  without 
a  napkin,  and  pour  the  sauce  over  them ;  if  a  whole  salmon 
serve  it  in  a  boat.    (See  Turbot  a  la  HoUandaise,  No.  206.) 

No.  242.  Saumon  a  la  Cardinal, 

Stuff  the  belly  of  the  salmon  with  forcemeat  of  fish  (No. 
1 24)  and  braise  as  directed  for  John  Doree  a  I'Orleannaise 
(No.  228) ;  when  done  dish  it  without  a  napkin,  and  cover 


POISSONS.  109 

it  with  a  mazarine  sauce  (No.  207),  sprinkle  truffles  and 
gherkins  cut  in  diamonds  over  it. 

No.  243.  Saumon  a  VAmiral. 

Trass  a  small  sahnon  in  the  form  of  the  letter  S,  and  boil 
it  as  previously ;  dish  it  without  a  napkin,  and  have  ready 
the  following  sauce :  peel  four  large  onions,,  cut  them  in 
slices,  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  six  tablespoonfuls 
of  salad  oil ;  fry  them  a  light  brown  colour,  then  pour  off 
the  oil,  and  add  two  glasses  of  port  wine,  three  cloves,  one 
blade  of  mace,  a  sprig  of  thyme,  a  bay-leaf,  one  teaspoonftd 
of  salt,  two  of  sugar,  twenty  spoonfuls  of  brown  sauce 
(No.  1),  and  six  of  brown  gravy  (No.  135);  reduce  it  over  a 
sharp  fire  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  rub  it  through  a  tammie, 
and  place  it  again  in  a  stewpan ;  boil  it  again  a  short  time, 
and  finish  with  one  ounce  of  anchovy  butter  (No.  78),  and 
two  spoonfuls  of  Harvey  sauce;  then  place  a  border  of 
mashed  potatoes  round  the  fish,  upon  which  dish  a  border 
of  quenelles  of  whiting  (No.  124);  and  upon  every  other 
quenelle  stick  a  prawn,  pour  the  sauce  over  the  fish,  and  a 
mazarine  sauce  over  the  quenelles ;  serve  very  hot. 

No.  244.  Saumon  en  matelote  Saxone. 

Boil  a  small  sahnon  as  in  the  last  article,  and  dish  with- 
out a  napkin ;  have  ready  some  small  legs  of  lobster,  bend 
them  at  the  joints  and  stick  the  ends  into  the  back  of  the 
salmon,  firom  head  to  tail,  make  the  sauce  as  for  turbot  a  la 
poissoniere  (No.  212),  and  pour  over  the  fish,  then  have 
ready  some  fillets  of  sole  (cut  in  strips  as  fine  as  white- 
bait,) nicely  bread-crumbed  and  fiied  in  lard,  with  which 
garnish  your  fish. 

No.  246.  Saumon  alaBeyrout 
Broil  two  shoes  of  salmon  in  oiled  paper  over  a  mode- 


110  POIS80N8. 

rate  fire ;  when  they  are  done  peel  the  skin  firom  the  edge 
and  lay  them  on  a  dish  without  a  napkin ;  have  ready  the 
following  sauce :  put  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  onions 
in  a  stewpan  with  one  ditto  of  Chih  vinegar,  one  of  common 
vinegar,  two  ditto  of  Harvey  sauce,  two  ditto  mushroom 
catsup,  and  twenty  tablespoonf uls  of  melted  butter ;  let  it 
reduce  till  it .  adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  then  add 
two  tablespoonfcds  of  essence  of  anchovy  and  a  small  quan- 
tity of  sugar,  pour  it  over  the  fish  and  serve  very  hot. 

No.  246.  Saumon  a  la  Peckeme. 

Take  a  sUce  of  thick  salmon  and  make  an  incision  upon 
each  side,  cutting  it  to  the  bone,  put  plenty  of  salt  and 
chopped  onions  upon  it  and  rub  it  well  in,  then  oil  a  sheet 
of  white  paper,  lay  the  salmon  on  it,  fold  the  paper  over 
and  crimp  it  at  the  edges  to  keep  the  steam  from  escaping, 
put  it  on  a  gridiron  over  a  slow  fire,  and  when  done  serve 
it  in  the  paper  with  pats  of  butter  separate ;  the  person  that 
serves  this  dish  at  table  should  open  the  paper  and  place  two 
pats  of  butter  on  each  slice ;  it  requires  to  be  eaten  very  hot. 

No.  247.  Saumon  a  VEciUiere. 

Boil  three  large  slices  of  salmon,  place  them  upon  a  dish, 
then  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  put  a  teaspoonful  of 
chopped  onions  into  a  stev^pan,  vdth  a  very  small  quantity 
of  salad  oil,  pass  it  over  a  moderate  fire  three  or  four  mi- 
nutes, but  keep  them  quite  white,  then  cut  in  small  dice 
the  tender  part  of  four  dozen  of  oysters,  put  them  in  the 
stev^pan  with  the  onions,  stir  them  over  the  fire  till  the 
oysters  are  warmed  through,  then  add  half  a  tablespoonful 
of  fiour,  (mix  all  well  together,)  two  tablespoonfuls  of  oyster 
sauce  (No.  69),  half  a  teaspoonfiil  of  salt,  and  two  ditto  of 
sugar,  vdth  a  Uttle  cayenne  pepper  and  essence  of  anchovies, 
place  it  again  over  the  fire,  keeping  it  stirred,  and  when  it 


POI880N8.  Ill 

has  boiled  two  Qjonutes  stir  in  the  yolks  of  four  ^gs  very 
quickly,  keep  it  over  the  fire  another  half  minute  till  it  begins 
to  set,  then  pour  it  on  a  dish  and  when  cold  spread  it  upon 
the  slices  of  salmon,  then  egg  and  bread-crumb  over,  and 
put  in  a  warm  oven  twenty  minutes,  salamander  of  a  good 
colour,  dish  them  without  a  napkin,  and  pom*  a  lobster 
sauce  (No.  68)  with  oysters  in  it  round  them. 

No.  248.  Saumon  a  la  Creme  d'Anchois. 

Boil  two  slices  of  salmon,  dish  without  a  napkin,  and  pour 
the  sauce  over  them  (see  Turbot  a  la  ci^me  d'anchois, 
No.  213). 

No.  249.  Saumon  augraiin  a  la  Provence. 

Should  you  have  any  salmon  left  from  a  previous  dinner 
it  is  very  good  served  in  this  manner  (for  description,  see 
Turbot  au  gratin  a  la  proven^ale.  No.  215.) 

No.  250.  Saumon  a  la  Creme  {oratine). 

Proceed  as  for  Turbot  (No.  211).  Many  of  my  readers 
will  probably  make  some  remarks  and  think  it  singular  that 
so  many  different  fishes  are  served  with  the  same  sauces, 
but  I  must  here  observe  that  each  fish  brings  with  it  its 
own  flavour ;  and  again,  it  is  not  to  be  supposed  that  any 
cook  would  send  two  difPerent  fishes  the  same  day  with  the 
same  sauce,  when  there  is  such  a  variety  to  choose  from. 

No.  251.  Sole  en  matelote  Normande. 

Cut  the  fins  off  a  fine  fresh  sole  and  make  an  incision 
down  the  back  dose  to  the  bone,  in  which  put  some  force- 
meat of  fish  (No.  124),  well  seasoned  with  diopped  escha- 
lots and  parsley,  then  butter  a  saute-pan  very  hghtly  and 
put  a  teaspoonfiil  of  chopped  eschalots  into  it  with  two 
glasses  of  white  wine,  lay  the  sole  into  it  and  season  with 


112  P0I8S0NS. 

a  little  pepper  and  salt,  then  cover  it  with  some  bechamel 
sauce  (No.  7),  and  put  it  into  a  moderate  oven  for  about 
twenty  minutes  or  half  an  hour,  (but  try  whether  it  is  done 
with  a  skewer,)  brown  it  lightly  with  the  salamander,  then 
take  up  the  sole,  dish  it  without  a  napkin,  and  make  the 
sauce  as  follows :  put  six  spoonfuls  of  white  sauce  (No.  7) 
in  the  saut6-pan  with  six  ditto  of  milk,  let  it  boil  four  mi- 
nutes, keeping  it  stirred,  then  add  one  dozen  oysters  blanch- 
ed, one  dozen  quenelles  of  whiting  (No.  124),  one  dozen 
mushrooms,  half  a  teaspoonfiil  of  essence  of  anchovies,  and 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  with  a  little  cayenne  pepper 
and  sugar ;  pour  the  sauce  over  and  round  the  fish,  pass  the 
salamander  again  over  it  and  garnish  round  with  fried  bread 
cut  in  small  triangles.  The  sauce  may  be  passed  though  a 
tammie  before  the  garniture  is  added  if  required.  IVied 
smelts  are  frequently  served  as  garniture  around  it. 

No.  252.  Sole  an  gratin,* 

Cut  the  fins  off  a  fiine  fresh  sole,  make  an  incision  in  the 
back,  then  butter  a  saute-pan  and  put  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
chopped  onions  in  it  with  half  a  glass  of  white  wine,  then 
lay  in  the  sole,  cover  it  with  a  brown  sauce  (No.  1),  and 
sprinkle  some  brovm  bread-crumbs  over  it,  with  a  few  small 
pieces  of  butter ;  then  place  it  in  a  moderate  oven  twenty 
minutes  or  half  an  hour  (try  when  done  as  before),  take 
it  out  of  the  saute-pan  and  dish  without  a  napkin ;  then 
put  four  spoonfuls  of  stock  and  two  of  brown  sauce  in 
the  saute-pan,  boil  it  five  minutes,  keeping  it  stirred,  then 
add  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped 
mushrooms,  one  of  chopped  parsley,  one  of  essence  of  ancho- 
vies, and  a  little  sugar  and  cayenne  pepper ;  pour  the  sauce 
round  the  fish,  place  it  again  in  the  oven  for  a  quarter  of  an 
hour,  pass  the  salamander  over  it  and  serve  very  hot. 

*  In  France  we  have  silver  dishes  on  purpose  for  a%  ffraii$u,  in  which  the]f 
are  dressed  and  served  to  table,  the  gratin  adhering  to  the  bottom  of  the  disL 


TOIS80NS.  118 

No.  253.  Sole  a  lu  Poltaise. 

Trmi  a  fine  sole  and  make  an  incision  down  the  back 
clearing  the  meat  from  the  bone,  then  melt  two  ounces  of 
butter,  and  mix  with  it  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  eschalots, 
one  of  chopped  mushrooms,  one  of  chopped  parsley,  and  a 
glass  of  sherry ;  put  the  sole  in  a  dish  and  pour  the  butteri 
etc.,  over  it,  sprinkle  a  few  bread  crumbs  on  it  and  put  it 
in  the  oven  twenty  minutes  or  half  an  hour ;  when  done 
pour  a  little  anchovy  sauce  (No.  72)  over  it,  and  brown  it 
lightly  with  the  salamander. 

No.  254.  Sole  a  la  Hollandaiae, 

Plain  boil  a  sole  in  salt  and  water  and  pour  the  sauce 
over  it  (see  Turbot  a  la  Hollandaise,  No.  206). 

No.  255.  Sole  aux  fines  her  bee. 

Boil  a  sole  as  before  (if  the  sole  is  very  fresh  it  may  be 
put  in  boiling  water,  but  it  is  best  to  let  it  only  simmer)  in 
salt  and  water,  and  dish  it  without  a  napkin ;  have  ready  the 
following  sauce:  put  in  a  stewpan  six  teaspoonfuls  of  chopped 
onions  and  a  piece  of  butter,  fry  the  onions  a  light  brown, 
then  add  eight  tablespoonfals  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1),  and 
let  it  boil  at  the  comer  of  the  stove  ten  minutes,  then  add 
a  teaspoonfdl  of  chopped  mushrooms,  half  ditto  of  chopped 
parsley,  one  ditto  of  essence  of  anchovies,  and  the  juice  of  a 
quarter  of  a  lemon ;  pour  it  over  the  fish  and  serve.  This 
sauce  must  be  rather  thick  but  not  too  much  so. 

No.  256.  Sole  a  la  Mattre  d'Eotel. 

Boil  the  sole  as  above  and  dish  it  without  a  napkin ;  then 
put  four  tablespoonfals  of  melted  butter,  and  four  ditto  of 
bechamel  sauce  (No.  7)  in  a  stewpan,  with  four  of  broth, 
when  it  boils  add  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  a  teaspoonful 

8 


114  P0IS80NS. 

of  chopped  parsley,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  a  little  pepper 
and  salt ;  pour  the  sauce  over  the  fish  and  serve. 

No.  257.  Sole  a  Vltcdienne, 

Boil  a  sole  as  usual,  then  have  ready  the  following  sauce  : 
put  two  teaspoonfuls  of  chopped  eschalots  in  a  stewpan 
with  a  very  little  salad  oil,  fry  them  a  few  minutes,  but  keep 
them  quite  white,  drain  off  the  oil,  and  add  two  tablespoon* 
fills  of  white  wine,  ten  ditto  of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  four 
ditto  of  boiled  milk,  and  let  it  simmer  ten  minutes  at  the 
comer  of  the  fire,  skim  it  well,  then  add  a  teaspoonful  of 
chopped  mushrooms,  a  little  chopped  parsley,  the  juice  of 
half  a  lemon,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream ;  mix  the 
whole  well  together,  season  it  a  httle  more  if  required  and 
pour  it  over  the  fish. 

No.  258.  Solea  plain  fried. 

Lard  and  oil  together  is  much  better  to  fiy  in  than  but- 
ter, for  the  milk  that  remains  in  the  butter  is  sure  to  bum  ; 
the  only  way  to  use  butter  is  to  clarify  it,  but  that  is  veiy 
expensive,  lard  by  itself  being  as  good  as  anything,  but  be 
careful  that  it  is  clean  and  not  burnt ;  cut  off  the  fins  of  the 
sole  and  dip  it  in  fiour,  then  egg  and  bread-crumb  it,  but 
do  not  put  it  in  the  lard  unless  it  is  quite  hot,  which  you 
may  easily  ascertain  by  throwing  a  drop  of  water  in  it ;  if  it 
is  hot  enough  it  will  make  a  hissing  noise ;  allow  the  sole 
ten  minutes  to  fry,  or  less,  according  to  the  size,  dish  it 
upon  a  napkin,  garnish  with  parsley,  and  serve  shrimp 
sauce  (No.  73)  in  a  boat. 

Observe  the  above  receipt,  to  fiy  all  kinds  of  fish,  as  eels, 
smelts,  whitings,  flotmders,  perch,  gudgeons,  &c.  Four 
poimds  of  lard  would  be  sufficient,  and  would  do  for  several 
occasions. 


POI8SOK8.  115 

No.  259.  Sole  a  la  Colbert 

Make  an  incision  in  the  back  of  a  sole  from  the  head 
nearly  to  the  tail,  then  break  the  bone  in  three  pieces,  bread- 
crumb it  and  fry  as  before ;  when  done,  take  out  the  pieces 
of  bone  and  fill  with  the  following :  lay  two  ounces  of  but- 
ter on  a  plate  with  half  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley, 
half  ditto  of  chopped  tarragon  and  chervil,  two  ditto  of 
lemon  juice,  and  a  little  pepper  and  salt ;  put  about  three 
parts  of  it  into  the  sole  and  mix  the  remainder  with  two 
tablespoonfids  of  melted  butter,  pour  round  the  fish,  which 
is  dished  without  a  napkin ;  put  it  in  the  oven  a  few  minutes 
and  serve  very  hot. 

No.  260.  Sole  a  la  Meuniere. 

Cut  the  fins  off  a  sole  and  crimp  it  on  each  side  by  mak- 
ing incisions  across  it ;  then  rub  half  a  tablespoonful  of  salt 
and  chopped  onions  well  into  it,  dip  it  in  flour  and  broil  it 
over  a  slow  fire ;  then  have  ready  four  pats  of  butter  mixed 
with  the  juice  of  a  lemon  and  a  httle  cayenne  pepper ;  rub 
it  over  the  sole,  which  is  previously  dished  up  without  a 
napkin,  turn  the  sole  over  once  or  twice,  put  it  in  the  oven 
a  minute  and  serve  very  hot. 

No.  261.  Sole  a  la  Creme  tfJncAois. 

Soil  a  sole  as  usual,  and  dish  it  without  a  napkin ;  have 

ready  the  following  sauce :  put  six  spoonfuls  of  white  sauce 

(No.  7)  in  a  stewpan,  vnth  four  of  white  broth ;  let  it  reduce  a 

few  minutes ;  then  add  an  ounce  of  anchovy  butter,  and  two 

spoonfuls  of  whipped  cream ;  mix  it  well,  and  pour  over  the 

fish. 

No.  262.  Filet8  de  Soles  en  matelote. 

Fillet  two  soles  ru  the  manner  described  (see  Fillets  of 
brill  a  la  juive,  No.  225),  cut  each  fillet  in  halves,  flour  and 


116  POISSONS. 

egg,  and  bread-crumb  them ;  fry  them  of  a  nice  colour  in 
salad  oil;  when  done,  dish  them  on  a  border  of  mashed 
potatoes,  and  fill  the  centre  with  a  matelote  sauce  (see 
Fillets  of  brill  en  matelote,  No.  226),  and  serve  very  hot. 

No.  263.  FUeta  de  Soles  au  gratin. 

Fillet  two  soles ;  egg  and  bread-crumb*  and  fry  as  above  ; 
dish  them  on  a  thin  border  of  mashed  potatoes,  pour  the 
following  sauce  over  them,  and  cover  with  bread-crumbs : 
put  twelve  tablespoonfuls  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1)  in  a  stew- 
pan,  and  when  it  boils  add  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped 
mushrooms,  one  do.  of  Harvey  sauce,  and  one  do.  of  essence 
of  anchovies ;  let  it  boil  five  minutes,  season  with  a  little 
sugar ;  add  two  yolks  of  eggs,  put  it  in  the  oven  ten  minutes, 
pass  the  salamander  over  it,  and  serve  veiy  hot. 

No.  264.  MeU  de  Soles  a  la  Maitre  d" Hotel. 

Fillet  a  pair  of  soles  as  before  (but  neither  cut  them  or 
bread-crumb  them),  rub  an  ounce  of  butter  into  a  saute- 
pan,  then  lay  in  the  fillets,  the  skin  side  downwards, 
and  sprinkle  chopped  parsley,  pepper,  salt,  and  the  juice 
of  a  lemon  over  them ;  then  place  them  over  a  slow  fire ; 
turn  them  when  about  half  done  (they  must  be  kept  quite 
white) ;  when  done,  lay  the  fillets  on  a  cloth,  cut  them  in 
halves  slantingly,  and  dish  them  round  without  a  napkin  ; 
then  place  them  in  a  hot  closet ;  then  put  ten  tablespoon- 
fuls of  melted  butter,  and  two  do.  of  white  sauce  (No.  7) 
into  the  same  saute-pan,  vrith  a  Uttle  more  lemon-juice  and 
chopped  parsley ;  boU  it  two  minutes ;  then  add  two  pats  of 
butter,  a  little  sugar  and  salt,  and  four  tablespoonfuls  of 
milk ;  pour  over  the  fillets,  and  serve  directly. 

No.  265.  Filets  de  Soles  a  la  HoUandaise. 
Fillet  two  soles  and  lay  them  in  a  saute-pan,  well  but- 


POISSONS.  117 

tered,  sprinkle  a  little  pepper,  salt,  and  the  iuice  of  half  a 
lemon  over  them ;  place  them  on  the  fire,  and  cook  them 
quite  white ;  when  done,  lay  them  on  a  cloth,  cut  them  in 
halves  slantingly,  and  dish  them  romid;  when  ready  to 
serve,  pour  some  sauce  Hollandaise  over  them  (No.  66). 

No.  266.     Filets  de  Soles  a  Vltalienne. 

Pillet  two  soles,  and  cook  them  as  in  the  last ;  dish  them 
up  in  the  same  manner ;  place  them  in  the  hot  closet ;  then 
put  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  eschalots  in  the  saute-pan, 
with  two  spoonfuls  of  white  wine ;  stir  it  over  the  fire  a 
minnte,  then  add  six  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  two 
of  white  sauce,  and  four  of  white  broth,  with  a  teaspoonful 
of  chopped  mushrooms,  half  do.  chopped  parsley,  a  Uttle 
lemon-juice,  and  two  spoonfuls  of  cream;  when  ready  to 
serve,  pour  the  sauce  over  the  fish. 

No.  267.  FUeU  de  Soles  en  ravigote. 

Fillet  and  dress  the  soles  as  for  Filet  de  soles  a  I'ltaUenne ; 
then  put  ten  tablespoonfuls  of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  and  six 
of  white  broth  in  the  saute-pan ;  then  mix  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  chopped  parsley,  half  do.  of  chopped  chervil,  and  half 
do.  of  chopped  tarragon,  with  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter, 
a  little  pepper  and  salt,  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of  tarragon 
vinegar;  boil  the  sauce  in  the  saute-pan  three  minutes, 
keeping  it  stirred,  then  add  the  butter  thus  prepared  with 
it ;  stir  it  over  the  fire  another  minute,  and  when  ready  to 
serve,  pour  it  over  the  fillets. 

No.  268.  Filets  de  Sole  a  la  Orlie. 

Fillet  two  soles  and  cut  them  in  halves  lengthwise ;  then 
lay  them  in  a  basin  with  an  onion  cut  in  shces,  a  httle 
parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf,  two  wine-glasses  of  vinegar,  and  a 
little  pepper  and  salt ;  let  it  remain  thus  two  hours,  then 


118  POISSONS. 

• 

dry  them  in  a  cloth;  flour,  egg,  and  bread-crumb  them, 
and  fry  in  oil ;  dish  them  round  without  a  napkin ;  then 
put  four  tablespoonfuls  of  tomata  sauce  (No.  37)  in  a  stew- 
pan,  with  one  of  Harvey  sauce,  and  two  of  good  stock ;  boil 
three  minutes ;  finish  with  a  Uttle  sugar,  and  pour  it  in  the 
dish,  but  not  over  the  fish.  This  sauce  requires  to  be  rather 
thin. 

No.  2C9.  Filets  de  Soles  a  la  Beform. 

Fillet  two  soles,  beat  each  fillet  flat ;  have  ready  a  dozen 
oystei-s,  blanched  and  chopped,  which  mix  with  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  forcemeat  of  whitings  (No.  124),  and  a  little 
chopped  eschalots;  spread  some  on  one  fillet,  then  cover 
another  over  it,  and  so  on  tiU  they  are  all  done ;  put  a  little 
oil  in  a  saute-pan,  with  a  httle  chopped  eschalots,  and*  a 
glass  of  white  wine ;  lay  your  fillets  in,  season  with  a  little 
pepper  and  salt,  and  put  them  in  a  moderate  oven  until  ten- 
der ;  tmn  them  over,  and  cut  each  into  large  diamonds,  dress 
them  round  (points  upwards)  upon  a  dish,  and  put  them  in 
the  hot  closet ;  put  ten  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  and 
six  do.  of  milk  into  the  saute-pan ;  place  it  over  the  fire, 
and  when  it  boils  pass  it  through  a  tammie ;  place  it  again 
on  the  fire,  boil  it  a  few  minutes,  add  two  pats  of  butter, 
and  stir  it  till  quite  smooth ;  pour  the  sauce  over  the  fillets, 
sprinkle  some  gherkins  and  ham  (cut  in  strips  half  an  inch 
long)  over,  and  serve  very  hot. 

No.  270.  Filets  de  Soles  aiix  Huitres. 

Fillet  and  dress  two  soles  as  for  Filets  de  sole  a  la  Hol- 
landaise  (No.  265),  dish  them  round,  then  put  a  dozen  and 
a  half  of  oysters  lightly  blanched  in  the  saute-pan,  with 
ten  tablespoonfuls  of  oyster  sauce  (No.  69),  and  four  do, 
of  milk;  boil  five  minutes,  season  vrith  a  little  cayenne 
pepper  and  salt,  if  requii*ed,  and  pour  over  the  fillets. 


POI8SONS.  119 

No.  271.   Cod-fish  au  naturel. 

Crimped  cod,  like  crimped  salmon,  is  preferable  to  the 
plain,  and  is  better  cut  in  slices  and  cooked,  than  to  cook 
the  whole  fish ;  to  boil  it  well  you  should  have  the  water 
boiling  (with  one  pound  of  salt  to  every  six  quarts  of 
water) ;  when  you  put  in  the  fish,  then  draw  it  to  the  comer 
of  the  stove,  and  let  it  simmer  twenty  minutes  or  half  an 
hour ;  when  it  is  done,  the  bone  in  the  centre  will  leave 
with  facility ;  be  careful  you  do  not  boil  it  too  much,  for  it 
would  cause  the  fish  to  eat  tough  and  stringy,  and  observe 
in  boiling  cod  that  is  not  crimped,  to  put  more  salt  in  the 
water,  it  will  make  the  fish  eat  firmer. 

No.  272.   Cdbillaud  aux  Huitres. 

Boil  your  fish  as  above,  dress  it  on  a  napkin,  and  garnish 
with  some  nice  sprigs  of  double  parsley,  and  serve  the 
oyster  sauce  (No.  69)  in  a  boat. 

No.  273.   Cahillaud  a  la  Bechamel. 

Boil  two  sUces  of  cod  as  before,  dish  them  without  a 
napkin,  and  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  put  nearly  a 
quart  of  Bechamel  sauce  (No.  7)  in  a  stewpan,  with  a 
quarter  of  a  pint  of  white  stock ;  stir  it  over  the  fire,  to 
reduce  ten  minutes,  then  add  two  teaspoonfuls  of  essence  of 
anchovies,  a  httle  cayenne  pepper  and  sugar ;  finish  with  a 
gin  of  whipped  cream,  and  pour  over  the  fish. 

No.  274.   Cahillaud  a  la  ColUgienne, 

Boil  the  fish  as  before,  and  dish  it  without  a  napkin ; 
then  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  put  an  ounce  and  a 
half  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  and  mix  two  ounces  of  flour 
with  it  over  the  fire ;  then  add  a  quart  of  milk,  with  two 
eschalots  peeled,  an  anchovy  well  washed,  a  httle  salt  and 


120  POISSONS. 

cayenne  pepper ;  let  it  boil  fifteen  minutes,  keeping  it  stirred, 
and  pass  it  through  a  tammie  into  a  clean  stewpan ;  then 
add  a  pint  of  muscles  (that  have  been  blanched  and  bearded), 
two  hard  boiled  eggs  cut  in  dice,  and  three  teaspoonfuls  of 
lemon-juice ;  season  rather  high,  and  when  ready  to  serve 
pour  over  the  fish. 

No.  275.  Cabillaud  a  la  Noble  Dame. 

Boil  two  slices  of  cod  as  before,  dish  them  without  a 
napkin,  and  pour  a  good  Hollandaise  sauce  (No.  66)  over 
them ;  then  have  ready  two  soles  filleted,  each  fillet  cut  in 
halves  which  egg  and  bread-crumb,  and  fry  (of  a  light  brown 
colour)  in  oil ;  dress  them  round  the  cod-fish  to  garnish  it, 
and  sprinkle  a  few  sprigs  of  chervil  over  it ;  this  dish  is 
very  good,  and  looks  exceedingly  well  if  nicely  done. 

No.  276.  Stewed  Cod  a  VEcoasaise. 

Put  into  a  large  stewpan  four  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped 
onions,  twenty  do.  of  melted  butter,  two  of  Harvey  sauce, 
two  of  essence  of  anchovies,  and  one  of  Chili  vinegar; 
put  in  two  sUces  of  cod,  start  them  over  a  sharp  fire,  and, 
when  boiling,  place  them  to  simmer  for  half  an  hour ;  then 
turn  them,  and  let  them  simmer  another  quarter  of  an 
hour ;  dress  them  on  a  dish,  without  a  napkin ;  then  put 
a  little  sugar  in  the  stewpan,  and  reduce  the  sauce  till 
rather  thick ;  pour  it  over  the  fish,  and  serve. 

No.  277.   CabUlaud  entier  a  la  Bourgetme. 

Procure  a  crimped  cod-fish  about  ten  pounds  in  weight, 
cover  it  over  with  salt  on  a  dish,  and  let  it  remain  six 
hours ;  then  put  it  in  a  fish-kettle,  and  pour  two  gallons  of 
boiling  water  over  it ;  let  it  simmer  an  hour  very  gently ; 
take  it  up,  drain  it  well,  and  dish  it  without  a  napkin, 
garnish  with   twenty  very  white  young   potatoes;   then 


POISSONS.  121 

pnt  half  a  pound  of  fresh  butter  in  a  stewpan ;  place  it  over 
the  fire,  and  when  it  is  melted  add  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  a 
fittle  white  pepper,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  pour  it  over 
the  fish. 

No.  278.   Cabillaud  a  la  Bachel 

Salt  a  crimped  cod  as  above,  then  put  it  into  a  large 
baking  dish,  with  four  tablespoonfiils  of  chopped  onions, 
and  three  glasses  of  Madeira  wine  (but  previously  fill  the 
incisions  of  the  fish  with  a  forcemeat  of  cod's  hver.  No.  126) 
put  it  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  when  half  done,  take  it  out 
egg  it  over  and  bread-crumb,  then  put  it  in  the  oven  again 
it  will  require  an  hour  and  a  quarter  to  bake ;  when  done, 
dish  it  without  a  napkin,  and  pour  a  Beyrout  sauce  (see 
Saumon  a  la  Beyrout,  No.  245)  over  it  without  garniture. 

No.  279.  Slices  of  Cod  h  la  Montefiore. 

Boil  two  shoes  of  cod,  and  let  it  get  cold ;  then  cover 
them  with  forcemeat  of  cod's  hver  (No.  126),  egg  and  bread- 
crumb them,  put  them  in  the  oven  half  an  hour,  and  brown 
them  lightly  with  the  salamander;  dish  them  without  a 
napkin,  and  pour  anchovy  sauce  (No.  72)  round  them. 

No.  280.   Cabillaud  a  la  Creme  (^ratine,) 
See  Turbot,  (No.  211.) 

No.  281.   Cabillaud  i  la  Proven^ale, 
See  Turbot  au  gratin  a  la  Provenyale  (No.  215). 

No.  282.   Cabillaud  a  la  Juive. 

Put  four  tablespoonfiils  of  chopped  onions,  and  two  do  of 
salad  oil  in  a  stewpan ;  pass  them  over  a  fire  five  minutes ; 
then  add  twenty  tablespoonfiils  of  melted  butter,  two  do.  of 
Harvey  sauce,  two  do.  of  essence  of  anchovies,  and  two  of 


122  P01880N8. 

Chili  vinegar;  lay  in  two  slices  of  cod,  and  proceed  as 
for  stewed  cod  a  TEcossaise ;  reduce  the  sauce,  and  pour 
over  them ;  garnish  with  quenelles  of  cod's  liver  (No.  126), 
and  onions  sliced  and  boiled. 

No.  283.   CabUlaud  a  la  Hollandaise. 

Boil  the  fish,  dress  it  without  a  napkin,  pour  a  sauce 
Hollandaise  (No.  66)  over,  and  sprinkle  some  chopped 
parsley  upon  it. 

No.  284.  Salt  Fish. 

Choose  the  fish  with  a  black  skin,  and  be  particular  in 
soaking  it  well ;  to  boil,  put  it  in  a  fish-kettle  with  plenty  of 
cold  water,  place  it  over  the  fire,  and  the  moment  it  b6ils 
take  it  off,  put  the  cover  on  the  kettle  and  let  it  simmer  a 
few  minutes,  but  if  it  boils  the  fish  would  be  hard  and 
thready,  when  done  dish  it  on  a  napkin,  garnish  with  plain 
boiled  parsnips  and  parsley,  and  serve  egg  sauce  (No.  76)  in 
a  boat. 

No.  285.  Salt  Cod  a  la  Maitre  d'Hdtel 

Boil  a  nice  square  piece  of  fish  as  above  directed,  dish  it 
without  a  napkin,  and  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  put 
twenty  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter  in  a  stewpan,  and 
when  it  boils  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  maitre  d'hotel 
butter  (No.  79),  stir  it  till  it  becomes  smooth,  and  pour  the 
sauce  over. 

No.  286.  Salt  Fish  a  la  Bourgmestre, 

Boil  a  square  piece  of  fish  as  above,  dish  it  without  a 
napkin,  then  melt  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  firesh  butter  id  a 
stewpan  over  the  fire,  and  when  half  melted  add  a  little 
pepper,  a  little  scraped  garlic,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and 
when  very  hot  four  hard-boiled  eggs  cut  in  slices,  pour  over 
the  fish. 


poissoNs.  123 

No.  287.  Bed  MvUets  a  ritalienne. 

Of  all  fish  this  is  one  of  the  most  recherche  when  in 
good  order,  it  is  of  a  nice  red  colour,  and  the  eyes  look  very 
bright. 

Make  a  paper  box  the  length  of  the  fish,  then  oil  the  box 
and  lay  in  the  fish,  season  it  with  a  Httle  pepper,  salt, 
chopped  parsley,  and  lemon  juice,  and  pour  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  white  sauce  (No.  7)  over  each,  then  put  it  or  them, 
(if  more  than  one)  in  a  moderate  oven  and  bake  twenty 
minutes  or  half  an  hour,  according  to  the  size,  and  when 
done,  slightly  brown  them  with  the  salamander ;  serve  them 
in  the  paper  boxes  with  an  Itahan  sauce  (No.  31)  poured 
over  them. 

No.  288.  Bed  Mtdlets  h  la  Fenitienne. 

Put  into  a  deep  saute-pan  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped 
eschalots,  one  ditto  of  chopped  parsley,  one  ditto  of  chopped 
tarragon,  one  of  chopped  mushrooms,  two  of  sa^ad  oil,  and 
four  of  sherry ;  then  lay  in  four  nice  mullets,  (well  cleaned), 
season  with  a  Uttle  pepper  and  salt,  cover  them  with  a  sheet 
of  white  paper,  and  place  them  in  a  slow  oven  for  an  hour, 
turn  them  over  and  dress  them  in  a  dish  without  a  napkin  ; 
then  put  twelve  tablespoonfuls  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1),  with 
one  of  essence  of  anchovy,  and  a  little  sugar,  boil  it  about 
ten  minutes  and  pour  over  the  fish. 

No.  289.  Bed  Mullets  d  la  Bavigote. 

Put  the  mullets  in  boxes  and  dress  as  for  Italienne,  but 
make  the  sauce  thus :  place  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh 
butter  on  a  plate  with  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  tarragon, 
one  ditto  of  chopped  chervil,  one  ditto  of  lemon  juice,  and 
a  little  pepper,  salt,  and  sugar,  mix  all  well  together; 
have  ten  tablespoonfuls  of  white  sauce  (No.  7)  boiling  in  a 


124  poissoNS. 

stewpan,  and  throw  the  other  ingredients  into  it,  stir  it 
over  the  fire  till  quite  smooth,  and  pour  over  your  mullets 
in  the  paper  boxes.     If  too  thick  add  a  little  milk. 

No.  290.  Fillets  of  Mullets  a  la  Montesquieu. 

Take  four  fish  and  fillet  them  by  passing  the  knife  from 
the  back  of  the  head  to  the  tail,  keeping  close  to  the  bone, 
then  cut  each  fillet  in  halves,  then  rub  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  butter  on  the  bottom  of  a  deep  saute-pan  and  lay  in  the 
fillets ;  season  with  a  Uttle  pepper,  salt,  chopped  parsley,  the 
juice  of  a  lemon,  and  a  glass  of  sherry ;  place  them  over  a 
brisk  fire  five  minutes,  then  turn  them  gently  and  place 
them  again  on  the  fire  for  five  minutes,  dress  them  roimd 
on  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes,  but  be  careful  not  to 
break  them,  as  they  are  very  dehcate ;  put  ten  spoonfuls 
of  melted  butter  in  the  saute-pan,  with  four  of  milk,  and 
a  Httle  sugar  and  salt ;  set  it  over  the  fire,  boil  it  three 
minutes,  keeping  it  stirred,  and  then  pour  over  the  fillets. 

No.  291.  Fillets  of  Mullets  a  ritalienne. 

Take  four  fish,  fillet  and  dress  as  above,  serve  an  Italian 
sauce  (No.  31)  over  them. 

No.  292.  Fillets  of  Mullets  a  la  Fenitienne. 

Fillet  and  dress  the  fillets  as  above,  and  sauce  as  for 
mullet  a  la  Venitienne  (No.  288.) 

No.  293.  Fillets  of  Mtdlets  sauce  Baviffote. 

Fillet  and  dress  the  fish  as  before,  with  the  exception  of 
the  sherry  and  sauce,  as  for  mullets  a  la  Ravigote. 

No.  294.  Fillets  of  Mullets  h  la  Mazarine, 

Fillet  and  dress  the  fish  as  in  the  last,  and  pour  a  sauce 
Mazarine^  (see  turbot  a  la  Mazarine^  No.  207)  over  them. 


POissoNs.  126 

No.  295.   WhitingSy  to  fry  them. 

Every  person  knows  the  delicacy  of  this  fish,  and  its 
lightness  as  food,  especially  invahds ;  it  is  generally  well 
received  at  all  tables :  to  fiy  them  well,  dry  them  in  a  cloth, 
then  throw  them  in  flour,  egg  and  bread-crumb,  fiy  them 
in  hot  lard,  observing  the  directions  for  frying  soles ;  serve 
them  on  a  napkin  with  shrimp  sauce  in  a  boat,  and  garnish 
with  parsley. 

No.  296.   Whiting  au  gratin. 

Have  the  whitings  skinned,  with  their  tails  turned  into 
their  mouths ;  butter  a  saute-pan  and  put  in  the  whitings, 
with  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  onions  and  four  tablespoon- 
fols  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1)  over  each;  sprinkle  bread 
crumbs  over  them,  and  a  Uttle  clarified  butter,  and  put  them 
in  a  moderate  oven  half  an  hour ;  take  them  out  and  dress 
them  on  a  dish  without  a  napkin ;  then  put  twelve  table- 
spoonfuls  more  brown  sauce  into  the  saute-pan,  with  a  tea- 
spoonfed  of  chopped  mushrooms,  one  ditto  chopped  parsley, 
one  ditto  essence  of  anchovy,  a  Uttle  pepper,  salt,  and  sugar, 
boil  ten  minutes,  pour  round  the  fish,  and  pass  the  sala- 
mander over  them.     (See  note  to  No.  252.) 

No.  297.   Whitings  broiled. 

Have  the  fish  skinned  and  curled  round,  flour  it,  and  lay 
it  on  the  gridiron  over  a  moderate  fire ;  it  will  take  about 
twenty  minutes ;  dish  it  on  a  napkin,  garnish  with  parsley, 
and  serve  plain  melted  butter  in  a  boat.  Season  when  near 
done. 

No.  298.   Whitings  broiled  h  la  Maitre  cPHdtel 

Broil  the  fish  as  above,  dish  them  without  a  napkin, 
have  six  tablespoonfiils  of  melted  butter  in  a  stewpan,  put 
it  to  boil,  then  add  two  ounces  of  maitre  d'hotel  butter 


126  POI880N8. 

(No.  79),  stir  it  till  it  is  melted,  but  do  not  let  it  boil, 
and  pour  over  the  fish. 

No.  299.  Fillets  of  Whitifiys  fried. 

Take  the  fillets  of  six  small  whitings  which  have  not 
been  skinned,  dip  them  in  flour,  egg,  and  bread-crumb 
them,  and  fry  in  very  hot  lard ;  garnish  with  fiied  parsley, 
and  serve  with  sauce  HoUandaise  (No.  66)  in  a  boat. 

No.  300.  Fillets  of  Wldtings  h  la  HoUandaise, 

Fillet  six  whitings  as  above,  cut  them  in  halves,  then 
butter  a  saute-pan,  and  lay  in  the  fillets  skin  side  down- 
wards ;  season  with  a  httle  pepper,  salt,  and  lemon  juice, 
place  them  over  a  slow  fire  five  minutes,  turn  them  and  place 
them  again  on  the  fire ;  when  done,  dish  them  round  on  a 
dish,  and  pour  some  sauce  HoUandaise  (No.  66)  over  them. 

No.  301 .  MUets  of  Wldtings  h  VJtalienne. 

Fillet  and  dress  the  fish  as  in  the  last,  adding  chopped 
parsley  to  the  seasoning,  and  make  the  sauce  as  for  Filets  de 
soles  a  ritalienne  (No.  266). 

No.  302.   WInting  d.  V HuHe. 

Fry  the  whiting  in  very  hot  salad  oil,  instead  of  lard,  of  a 
very  light  brown  colour ;  dish  it  on  a  napkin,  garnish  with 
fried  parsley,  and  serve  shrimp  sauce  in  a  boat. 

No.  303.  Mackerel 

The  mackerel  is  a  useful  fish,  and  makes  its  appearance 
upon  the  tables  of  all  classes ;  for  whilst  its  dehcious  flavour 
makes  it  a  favourite  of  the  rich,  its  cheapness  frequently 
renders  it  economical  food  for  the  poor.  To  plain  bod 
them  put  them  in  boiling  salt  and  water,  let  them  simmer 
twenty  minutes  or  half  an  hour,  according  to  the  size ;  dish 


POIS80N8.  127 

on  a  napkin,  garnish  with  parsley,  and  serve  fennel  sauce 
(No.  75)  in  a  boat. 

No.  804.  Mackerel  i  la  Maitre  S Hotel 

Cut  a  mackerel  up  the  back  close  to  the  bone,  season  it 
with  pepper  and  salt,  (a  httle  cayenne  if  approved,)  butter 
the  skin  well,  and  lay  it  on  the  gridiron ;  it  will  take  about 
twenty  minutes  over  a  moderate  fire  to  broil ;  when  it  is 
done  have  ready  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  maitre  d'hotel 
butter  (No.  79),  place  the  mackerel  on  a  dish,  without  a 
napkin,  put  half  the  butter  in  the  incision  at  the  back,  and 
spread  the  rest  over  it ;  place  it  in  the  oven  a  few  minutes 
and  serve  very  hot. 

No.  805.  TUleU  of  Mackerel  i  la  Dumas. 

FUlet  your  mackerel  as  you  would  whitings  by  passing 
the  knife  down  the  back  bone,  lay  your  fillets  in  a  buttered 
saute-pan,  (the  skin  side  upwards),  with  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  oil,  two  of  port  wine,  and  season  with  a  little  pepper  and 
salt ;  pkce  them  over  a  sharp  fire  ten  minutes,  then  turn 
them  and  place  them  over  again  five  minutes  longer,  or  till 
they  are  done,  take  them  out,  cut  each  fillet  in  halves,  and 
dish  them  round  on  a  dish  without  a  napkin  ;  then  put  twelve 
tablespoonfuls  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1)  into  the  saute-pan, 
let  it  boil  five  minutes,  then  add  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped 
mushrooms,  half  ditto  of  chopped  parsley,  a  Uttle  lemon  juice, 
and  a  small  quantity  of  sugar ;  chop  the  roe  of  the  mack- 
erel and  put  in  the  sauce,  let  it  simmer  five  minutes,  pour 
it  over  the  fillets,  cover  them  Ughtly  with  bread-crumbs, 
brown  lightly  with  the  salamander  and  serve  very  hot.  The 
sauce  must  not  be  too  thick. 

No.  306.  Mackerel  au  beurre  noir. 
Open  your  mackerel  at  the  back,'  season  with  pepper  and 


128  poissoNs. 

salt,  butter  all  over,  and  lay  quite  flat  on  the  gridiron,  broil 
it  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour  over  a  moderate  fire,  and 
pla^  it  in  a  dish  without  a  napkin,  then  put  half  a  pound 
of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  place  it  over  a  sharp  fire  till  it 
becomes  black,  (but  not  burnt,)  throw  in  half  a  handful 
of  picked  parsley,  fry  it  crisp,  and  pour  it  over  the  fish, 
then  put  four  tablespoonfuls  of  conunon  vinegar  into  the 
stewpan,  boil  it  half  a  minute,  season  with  pepper  and  salt, 
and  pour  likewise  over  the  fish,  put  it  in  the  oven  five  minutes 
and  serve  very  hot. 

No.  807.  Fillets  of  Mackerel  a  la  Venitienne. 

Fillet  your  mackerel  and  cut  each  fillet  in  halves,  butter 
a  saute-pan  and  lay  them  in  skin-side  downwards ;  season 
with  a  httle  pepper,  salt,  and  chopped  eschalots ;  place  them 
on  a  slow  fire  five  minutes,  then  turn  them,  and  place  them 
again  on  the  fire  ten  minutes  longer,  but  keep  them  quite 
white ;  dress  them  on  a  dish  without  a  napkin  in  the  form 
of  a  star ;  put  ten  tablespoonfuls  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1)  in 
the  saute-pan,  with  half  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  tarragon 
and  chervil,  half  ditto  of  chopped  truffles,  and  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  port  wine ;  let  it  boil  a  few  minutes,  pour  over  the 
fillets  and  serve. 

No.  308.  Dublin  Bay  Haddock  a  la  bonne  Femnie. 

This  fish  used  to  be  very  difficult  to  procure  fresh  in 
London,  but  the  rapidity  of  steam  conveyance  by  sea  and 
land,  brings  it  almost  aUve  into  the  Ijondon  markets.  I 
must  highly  recommend  this  both  for  its  firmness  and  its 
lightness ;  it  is  usually  cooked  in  one  of  the  two  foUowiii^ 
wajrs,  but  it  may  be  plain  boiled  and  served  with  shrimp, 
maitre  d'hotel,  HoUandaise,  or  any  other  sauces :  cut  four 
or  five  incisions  on  each  side  of  a  Dublin  Bay  haddock, 
about  an  inch  deep,  put  it  in  a  deep  dish  and  cover  it  well 


poissoNS.  129 

with  sslt,  let  it  remain  so  about  twelve  hours,  then  put  it 
in  boiling  water  and  let  it  simmer  thirty  or  forty  minutes, 
(if  the  fish  weighs  six  or  seven  pounds,)  dish  it  on  a  nap- 
kin, garnish  with  parsnips  plain  boiled,  and  parsley,  and 
serve  egg  sauce  (No.  76)  in  a  boat. 

No.  309.  Dublin  Bay  Haddocky  baked. 

Fin  the  belly  of  the  fish  with  stuffing  (No.  127),  sew  it 
up  with  packthread,  and  truss  it  with  its  tail  in  its  mouth ; 
mb  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  over  it,  set  it  on  a 
baking  sheet,  put  it  in  a  warmish  oven  and  bake  it  three 
quarters  of  an  hom* ;  when  done,  dress  it  on  a  dish  without 
a  napkin,  and  pour  a  Beyrout  sauce  round  it — (for  sauce, 
see  No.  64). 

No.  310.  Common  Haddock,  plain. 

This  is  a  very  serviceable,  light,  wholesome  fish,  and  may 
be  obtained  like  soles  or  whitings,  at  any  time  of  the  year ; 
to  dress  them  plain  put  them  in  boiling  water  well  salted, 
and  let  them  simmer  about  twenty  minutes,  (or  according 
to  the  size,)  dress  on  a  napkin  and  serve  shrimp  sauce  in  a 
boat. 

No.  311.  Haddock  a  la  Maiire  SH6tel. 

Cut  the  fish  open  at  the  back  on  each  side  of  the  bone, 
season  it  with  pepper  and  salt,  dip  it  in  fiour,  and  lay  it  on 
a  gridiron  over  a  moderate  fire,  turning  it  very  carefully ; 
it  wiU  take  about  twenty  minutes  to  cook,  dress  it  on  a  dish 
without  a  napkin ;  then  have  ready  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  maitre  d'hotel  butter  (No.  69),  put  half  of  it  in  the 
back  of  the  fish,  and  put  the  fish  in  the  oven,  put  the 
remainder  of  the  butter  in  the  stewpan  with  six  tablespoon- 
fuLs  of  rather  thin  melted  butter ;  when  quite  hot  pour  it  * 
round  the  fish  and  serve. 

9 


130  P0I8S0KS. 

No.  312.  Haddock  a  la  Walter  Scott. 

Put  two  tablespoonfiils  of  chopped  onions,  one  ditto  of 
Harvey  sauce,  one  ditto  of  catsup,  one  ditto  of  sherry,  and 
twenty  ditto  of  melted  butter  into  a  middling-sized  stew- 
pan,  place  it  over  the  fire  and  let  it  boil  fifteen  minutes, 
keeping  it  stirred,  then  have  ready  a  good  sized  haddock, 
cut  it  in  four  pieces,  put  it  into  the  stewpan  with  the  sauce, 
place  it  over  a  slow  fire  for  twenty  minutes,  or  longer  if 
necessary^  when  done,  dress  it  on  a  dish  without  a  napkin  ; 
reduce  the  sauce  a  Httle  more  if  required,  then  add  a  little 
sugar  and  essence  of  anchovy,  pour  it  over  the  fish  and 
serve. 

No.  313.  liUeta  of  Haddock  a  la  St.  Paul. 

Fillet  your  fish  the  same  as  a  whiting,  dip  the  fillets  in 
flour,  egg,  and  bread-crumb,  and  fiy  in  hot  lard,  or  oil,  in  a 
saute-pan,  dress  them  on  a  napkin,  garnish  with  fried  water- 
cress, and  serve  with  two  ounces  of  anchovy  butter  melted, 
but  not  boiled,  in  a  boat. 

No.  314.  Fillets  of  Haddock  a  la  HoUandaise. 

Fillet  your  fish  as  above,  and  proceed  as  for  fillets  of 
whiting  a  la  HoUandaise  (see  No.  300). 

No.  315.  Gurnet  and  Pipers. 

Though  this  fish  is  not  much  apporeciated,  I  must  say  it 
is  deserving  of  more  repute  than  it  possesses  in  the  opinion 
of  epicures,  for  when  fresh  and  well  di^ssed  it  deserves  to 
rank  as  one  of  the  first  of  the  second-class  fishes ;  to  dress 
it  plain  it  is  put  in  boiling  water,  and  simmered  twenty  or 
thirty  minutes  or  more,  according  to  the  size ;  dress  it  on  a 
napkin,  garnish  with  parsley,  and  serve  anchovy  sauce  in  a 
boat. 


POI880K8.  ISl 

No.  316.  Botut  Gumet. 

¥m  the  belly  of  the  fish  with  stuffing  (No.  127),  sew  it 
up  with  packthread,  and  trass  the  fish  with  its  tail  in  its 
mouth,  butter  a  saute-pan,  ^  and  put  two  tablespoonfols  of 
chopped  eschalots  and  a  glass  of  sherry  into  it,  ^g  the  fish 
with  a  paste  brush,  bread-crumb,  and  lay  a  few  pieces  of 
butter  upon  it ;  then  put  it  in  the  saute-pan,  and  place  it  in 
the  oven  half  an  hour,  or  more  if  required ;  when  done,  dish 
it  without  a  napkin,  first  drawing  out  the  packthread,  then 
put  twelve  tablespoonfuls  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1)  in  the 
saute-pan,  with  four  ditto  of  broth,  a  quarter  ditto  of  sugar, 
and  a  half  ditto  of  essence  of  anchovy ;  boil  it  five  minutes, 
pour  it  round  the  fish,  pass  the  salamander  over  it  and  serve. 

No.  317.  Fillets  of  Garnets  en  matelote. 

Skin  and  fillet  four  small  gurnets  (in  the  same  manner 
as  you  would  whitings),  cut  each  fillet  in  halves,  egg  and 
breadrcramb,  and  fry  them  iu  oil  in  a  saut6-pan ;  dress  them 
on  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes,  and  serve  a  sauce  mate- 
lote (No.  262)  in  the  centre. 

No.  318.  Fillets  of  Gurnets  a  la  Maitre  d' Hotel. 

Skin  and  fillet  the  fish  as  above,  then  butter  a  sant^pan 
and  lay  the  fillets  in  it,  season  with  a  Uttle  pepper,  salt, 
chopped  parsley,  and  lemon  juice ;  place  them  on  a  slow 
fire  five  minutes,  turn  than  and  put  them  again  on  the 
fire  tin  done,  dress  them  round  on  a  dish  withotit  a  napkin, 
and  finish  the  sauce  as  for  fillets  of  soles  ak  maitre  d'hotel 
(No.  264),  and  pour  over  the  fillets. 

No.  319.  Fillets  of  Gurnets  a  Vltalienne. 

Skin,  fillet,  cook,  and  dress  the  fish  as  before  for  sauce, 
(see  fillets  of  soles  a  la  Italienne,  No.  266.) 


•        \ 


]  82  poissoNs. 

No.  320.  Herrings  broiled,  sauce  Digon. 

These  fish  are  fresh  when  the  eyes  look  bright,  the  gills 
red,  and  the  scales  glossy  ;  the  delicacy  of  these  fish  prevent 
them  being  dressed  in  any  other  way  than  broiled  or  boiled, 
they  may  certainly  be  bread-crumbed  and  fried,  but  veiy 
few  persons  like  them ;  they  are  best  in  the  following  way : 
wipe  them  well  and  cut  three  incisions  on  each  side,  dip 
them  in  flour,  and  broU  them  over  a  moderate  fire ;  when 
done,  sprinkle  a  little  salt  over  them,  dish  them  on  a  nap- 
kin, garnish  with  parsley,  and  serve  the  following  sauce  in 
a  boat :  put  eight  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter  in  a  stew- 
pan,  with  two  ditto  of  French  mustard,  two  pats  of  butter, 
and  a  Uttle  pepper  and  salt,  when  boiling  and  the  pats  are 
melted,  pour  the  sauce  into  the  boat  and  serve. 

No.  321.  Herrings  plain  boiled. 

Put  two  quarts  of  water  to  boil  (in  a  stewpan),  with  half 
a  pound  of  salt ;  when  boiling  put  in  six  or  eight  herrings, 
stand  them  on  the  comer  of  the  fire  to  simmer  for  a  quarter 
of  an  hour,  take  them  up,  dish  them  on  a  napkin,  and  serve 
shrimp,  anchovy,  or  sauce  HoUandaise  in  a  boat  \  these  fish 
require  to  be  served  the  moment  they  are  dressed,  or  they 
become  heavy  and  indigestible. 

No.  322.  Boiled  Herrings  a  la  Creme. 

Boil  the  herrings  as  above,  and  dish  them  without  a  nap- 
kin ;  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  put  six  tablespoonfuls 
of  the  best  cream  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  little  pepper  and  salt, 
and  when  nearly  boihng  add  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter  and 
the  juice  of  half  a  lemon ;  stir  it  quick  and  pour  over  the  fish. 

No.  323.  Skate  plain  boiled. 
This  fish  with  some  persons  is  a  great  favourite;  it  is 


POISS0N8.  133 

usually  crimped,  cut  in  slices,  and  rolled  round,  but  very 
seldom  dressed  whole ;  to  boil  it  put  in  salt  and  water  as 
usual  when  the  water  boils,  and  let  it  simmer  twenty  mi- 
nutes, then  take  it  up,  dish  it  on  a  napkin,  garnish  with 
parsley,  and  serve  with  anchovy  sauce  in  a  boat. 

No.  324.  Skate  au  Beurre  noir. 

Boil  the  skate  as  above,  drain  it  well,  and  dish  it  with- 
out a  napkin;  put  half  a  poimd  of  butter  in  a  stewpan 
and  set  it  on  the  fire  till  it  gets  quite  black,  then  fry 
half  a  handful  of  parsley  (that  has  been  well  washed  and 
picked)  in  it  quite  crisp,  and  pour  over  the  fish,  then  put 
five  tablespoonfiils  of  vinegar,  with  a  Uttle  pepper  and  salt, 
into  the  same  stewpan,  boil  it  a  minute,  pour  over  the  fish, 
put  it  in  the  oven  five  minutes  and  serve  very  hot. 

■ 

No.  .325.  Skate  a  la  Maitre  d' Hdtel 

Boil  the  fish  as  previously,  dish  it  up  without  a  napkin, 
then  put  twelve  tablespoonfnls  of  white  sauce  (No.  7)  in  a 
stewpan,  and  when  it  boils  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
maitre  d'hotel  butter  (No.  79)  to  it ;  stir  it  till  the  butter  is 
melted  and  pour  over  the  fish. 

No.  326.  Smelts,  to  fry  them. 

Select  these  fishes  very  fresh,  they  being  so  very  delicate 
they  must  not  be  kept  more  than  one  day  in  summer  or 
two  in  winter ;  their  appearance  when  fresh  is  very  silvery, 
the  eyes  are  very  bright,  and  they  smell  like  violets  or 
cucumbers,  but  if  the  belly  looks  at  all  black  they  are  not 
fresh,  and  consequently  not  wholesome  ;  the  most  common 
method  of  dressing  them  is  to  fry  them ;  dry  them  well  in  a 
cloth,  and  dip  them  in  flour ;  then  have  half  an  ounc^  of 
butter  melted  in  a  stewpan,  into  which  break  the  yolks  of 
two  eggs,  with  which  wash  the  smelts  over  with  a  paste 


134  poissoNS. 

brash,  dip  them  in  bread-crumbs,  fry  in  very  hot  lard, 
dress  them  on  a  napkin,  garnish  with  parsley,  and  searve 
with  shrimp  sauce  in  a  boat. 

No.  827.  Smelts  a  la  Juive. 

Egg  and  bread-crumb  the  fish  as  before,  fry  in  salad  ofl 
(very  hot),  dress  them  on  a  napkin,  garnish  with  parsley, 
and  serve  without  sauce. 

No.  328.  Smelts  a  la  Botdan^ere. 

Dry  the  fish  in  a  napkin,  dip  them  in  very  thick  cieam, 
and  immediately  afterwards  in  flour,  so  that  it  forms  a  paste 
round  them ;  fiy  them  in  very  white  hot  lard,  dress  them 
on  a  napkin,  garnish  with  parsley,  and  serve  without  sauce. 

No.  329.  Jtelettes  Eperlans  a  la  Mena^ere. 

Put  ten  smelts  upon  a  silver  skewer,  dry  them  in  flour, 
then  oil  your  gridiron  and  lay  the  fish  upon  it,  broil  them 
ten  minutes  over  a  clear  fire,  dress  them  on  a  dish  without 
a  napkin,  and  pour  some  butter  clarified,  with  a  Uttle  pep- 
per, salt,  and  lemon-juice,  over  them.  In  France  these 
fishes  are  served  for  second  course  in  the  following  way : 
have  four  small  silver  skewers,  (atelettes,)  and  run  them 
through  the  eyes  of  the  fish,  egg  and  bread-crumb  them, 
and  fry  in  very  hot  lard  five  minutes ;  serve  them  on  a 
napkin  without  any  sauce ;  they  take  the  place  of  a  roast. 

No.  330.  Buisson  d^* Iberians. 

Truss  the  fishes  by  putting  their  tails  into  their  mouths, 
season  them  with  pepper  and  salt,  egg  and  bread-crumb 
and  fiy  them  in  very  hot  lard,  dress  them  on  a  napkin 
pyramidically,  garnish  with  fiied  parsley,  and  serve  plain 
melted  butter  in  a  boat. 


POI880K8.  185 

No.  831.  FloundeTB,  Water  SoucheL 

Put  a  pint  of  water  into  a  deep  saute-pan,  with  half  a 

tablespoonfdl  of  salt,  and  a  little  pepper,  and  forty  small 

sprigs  of  parsley ;  when  nearly  boiling  have  ready  six  small 

floanders,  (cot  in  halves  in  a  slanting  direction),  and  put 

them  into  the  saute-pan,  let  them  simmer  about  twelve 

minutes,  take  them  up  and  dress  them  on  a  dish  without  a 

napkin ;  then  add  a  Utile  sugar  to  the  hquor  they  were 

bailed  in,  reduce  it  five  minutes,  and  pour  over  the  fish ; 

haJf  broth  may  be  used  with  half  a  pint  of  water  instead  of 

a  pint. 

No.  332.  Maunders  a  la  GreenmcA. 

Dry  them  on  a  cloth,  then  dip  the  white  part  of  them 
in  yolks  of  eggs,  then  in  flour  and  bread-crumbs  mixed 
together,  firy  them  in  hot  lard,  dress  them  on  a  napkin, 
with  fried  parsley  in  the  middle ;  serve  anchovy  sauce  in  a 
boat ;  six  small  fish  are  enough  for  this  dish. 

No.  333.  Maunders  plain  fried. 

Dry  them,  dip  in  flour,  egg,  and  bread-crumb,  and  fry 
them  in  hot  lard ;  dress  them  on  a  napkin,  garnished  with 
parsley,  and  serve  shrimp  sauce  (No.  73)  in  a  boat. 

No.  334.  Maunders  broiled. 

Dry  them  and  dip  them  in  flour,  put  them  on  a  gridiron 
over  a  moderate  fire,  when  done  dress  them  on  a  napkin, 
and  serve  shrimp  sauce  in  a  boat. 

No.  335.  Plaice. 

May  be  dressed  like  soles,  (au  gratin,)  but  the  usual  way 
is  to  boil  or  fry,  and  serve  on  a  napkin  with  anchovy  sauce 
in  a  boat.  It  is  a  watery  fish  and  seldom  admitted  in  the 
kitchens  of  the  wealthy. 


186  POIS80N8. 

No.  336.   Whitebait. 

This  very  delicate  little  fish  is  cooked  in  the  most  simple 
manner ;  dry  them  in  a  couple  of  cloths,  shake  the  cloths 
at  the  comer,  but  do  not  touch  the  fish  with  your  hands ; 
then  have  ready  an  equal  quantity  of  bread-crumbs  and 
flour  on  a  dish,  throw  the  fish  into  it,  toss  them  lightly 
over  with  the  hands,  take  them  out  immediately,  put  them 
in  a  wire  basket,  and  fry  them  in  very  hot  lard ;  one  minute 
will  cook  them ;  turn  them  out  on  to  a  cloth,  sprinkle  a  little 
salt  over  them,  dish  them  on  a  napkin  and  serve  very  hot. 

These  Liliputian  fishes  never  can  be  had  at  home  in  the 
perfection  you  get  them  at  Greenwich  or  Blackwall,  where 
they  are  obtained  as  soon  as  caught,  and  dressed  by  persons 
in  constant  practice. 

No.  837.  Sturgeon. 

The  flesh  of  this  fish  is  or  ought  to  be  absolutely  white ; 
if  red,  nothing  can  be  done  with  it ;  though  this  fish  is 
much  in  vogue  in  France,  in  England  it  is  thought  no- 
thing of,  for  which  reason  I  shall  only  give  two  receipts 
how  to  dress  it ;  no  fish  requires  so  much  cooking ;  to  dress 
it  plain  it  is  merely  boiled  in  salt  and  water,  a  pound  of  the 
fish  requiring  half  an  hour,  dish  on  a  napkin,  garnish  with 
parsley,  and  serve  anchovy  sauce  in  a  boat.  It  is  cut  in 
slices  an  inch  in  thickness  to  boil. 

No.  338.  Sturgeon  a  la  Chanceltere. 

Procure  two  pieces  of  middling-sized  fish  about  five 
inches  in  thickness,  then  prepare  the  following  marinade : 
put  two  onions,  one  carrot,  one  turnip,  six  eschalots,  four 
bay-leaves  (cut  up  very  small,)  six  cloves,  two  blades  of 
mace,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  oil,  in  a  stewpan,  pass  it 
over  the  fire  ten  minutes,  keeping  it  stirred,  then  add  four 


POIS80N8.  137 

win^lassfuls  of  vinegar,  four  of  sherry,  and  three  pints 

of  broth ;  boil  altogether  twenty  minutes,  then  lay  in  the 

fish,  cover  the  stewpan,  and  put  it  in  a  slow  oven  for  four 

hours ;  let  it  remain  in  the  stock  till  ready  to  serve,  dish  it 

without  a  napkin,  and  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  put 

twenty  tablespoonfuk  of  thick  white  sauce   (No.  7)  in  a 

stewpan  with  twenty  of  the  stock  the  fish  was  cooked  in, 

let  it  reduce  to  two  thirds,  then  pass  it  through  a  tammie 

into  another  stewpan,  and  add  twenty  blanched  muscles, 

twenty  ohves,  twenty  mushrooms,  two  spoonfuls  of  essence 

of  anchovies,  half  a  one  of  sugar,  and  a  little  cayenne ;  when 

hot  pour  over  the  fish.     The  fish  dressed  this  way  may  be 

served  with  matelote,  maitre  d'hotel,  Or  Mazarine  sauce. 


OF   SHELL   FISH. 


No.  839.  Lobsters. 

The  middUng-sized  ones  are  preferable  to  the  very  large 
ones ;  the  meat  is  more  delicate ;  plain  boiling  in  salt  and 
water  is  all  they  require,  or  sea  water  if  it  can  be  obtained ; 
though  the  dressing  of  this  fish  is  so  very  simple  you  very 
seldom  meet  with  them  boiled  to  perfection ;  often  they  are 
over  done,  then  they  have  lost  their  succulence,  and  eat 
tough  and  thready ;  but  if,  on  the  contrary,  they  are  under 
done,  they  are  very  unwholesome  and  unpalateable ;  to 
avoid  this  mistake  I  will  here  give  the  proper  time  to  boil 
them ;  put  a  lobster  weighing  one  pound  into  boiling  water 
and  let  it  boil  a  quarter  of  an  hour ;  if  the  lobster  weighs 
two  pounds  it  will  require  half  an  hour,  and  so  on  in  pro- 


188  POI880KS. 

portion ;  this  is  one  of  the  most  useful  shell  fish  employed 
in  cooking,  as  may  be  seen  by  the  diferent  receipte  for 

fish. 

No.  340.  Crabs. 

This  is  also  a  very  delicate  fish ;  it  is  boiled  in  the  same 
manner  as  a  lobster,  only  allowing  five  minutes  longer  to 
each  pound,  but  small  ones  are  useless ;  they  are  usually 
eaten  cold  with  oil  and  vinegar ;  to  send  them  to  table, 
dress  the  meat  in  the  back  shell  by  mixing  the  soft  part 
with  a  few  bread-crumbs,  seasoning  it  with  a  little  pepper 
and  salt,  and  putting  it  in  the  centre  of  the  shell ;  then 
pick  the  flesh  from  the  large  daw  with  a  fork,  and  filling 
up  the  two  ends,  separating  it  from  the  other  with  some 
red  spawn,  place  it  upon  a  dish,  surround  it  with  the  small 
claws  in  a  circle,  and  garnish  with  parsley. 

No.  341.  Mmclea. 

Though  very  little  in  use,  the  flavour  of  this  fish  is  very 
deUcious  in  many  sauces ;  many  people  are  afraid  to  eat 
them,  but  with  care  there  is  not  the  slightest  danger  if 
prepared  in  the  following  manner:  wash  them  well  in 
several  waters,  and  be  particular  in  taking  off  all  the  threads 
that  hang  to  the  joints  of  the  shell,  put  them  in  a  stewpan 
with  two  onions  (sUced),  four  cloves,  two  bay-leaves,  and  a 
handful  of  parsley ;  set  them  on  a  brisk  fire  and  cover  them 
over,  toss  them  over  now  and  then,  and  when  they  open  of 
themselves  they  are  done ;  turn  them  out  of  the  stewpan, 
lift  off  the  top  shells  and  take  out  the  flsh,  beard  them 
and  be  particular  that  no  small  crabs  remain  in  them  (as 
they  are  supposed  to  be  the  unwholesome  part),  put  them 
in  a  basin,  strain  their  own  Uquor  over  them,  and  put  them 
by  for  use.     In  July  and  August  these  fish  may  be  omitted. 


P0TBS0N8.  180 

No.  342.  Oysters. 

The  English  green  oysters  are  the  best  that  are  known ; 
the  latter  end  of  August  is  about  the  time  an  epicure  would 
begin  to  eat  them ;  the  small  ones  are  the  best  for  table, 
and  the  laige  ones  for  culinary  purposes ;  to  blanch  them 
open  them  with  care,  and  put  tiiem  in  a  stewpan  with  their 
own  liquor ;  let  them  set,  but  they  must  not  boil ;  beard 
thexQ,  strain  their  own  Uquor  over  them  in  a  basin,  put 
them  by  and  use  where  described. 

No.  343.  l?%ke  roasted. 

This  fish  in  France  is  found  daily  upon  the  tables  of  the 
first  epicures,  but  the  quatily  of  this  fish  there  appears  much 
more  delicate  than  here.  But  perhaps  the  reason  of  its 
being  more  in  vogue  there  is,  that  other  fish  are  more  scarce ; 
not  being  so  much  in  use  here,  (that  is,  in  London,)  but 
in  the  country,  where  gentlemen  have  sport  in  catching 
them,  they  are  much  more  thought  of,  and  to  them,  per- 
haps, the  following  receipts  may  be  the  most  valuable.  To 
dress  it  plain  it  is  usually  baked,  as  follows :  having  well 
cleaned  the  fish  stuff  it  with  the  stuffing  for  fish  (No.  127), 
and  sew  the  belly  up  with  packthread ;  butter  a  saute-pan, 
put  the  fish  into  it  and  place  it  in  the  oven  for  an  hour  or 
more,  according  to  the  size  of  it  \  when  done  dish  it  without 
a  napkin  and  pour  anchovy  sauce  round  it ;  this  fish,  pre- 
vious to  its  being  baked,  must  be  trussed  with  its  tail  in  its 
mouth,  four  incisions  cut  on  each  side,  and  well  buttered  over. 

No.  344.  Fihe  a  la  Chambord. 

The  large  fish  are  the  only  ones  fit  for  this  dish  (which  is 
much  thought  of  in  France).  Have  the  fish  well  cleaned, 
and  lard  it  in  a  square  on  one  side  with  bacon,  put  it  in  a 
fish-kettle,  the  larded  side  upwards,  and  prepare  the  follow- 


140  POISSONS. 

ing  marinade :  slice  four  onions,  one  carrot,  and  one  turnip, 
and  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  six  bay-leaves,  six  cloves, 
two  blades  of  mace,  a  little  thyme,  basil,  a  bunch  of  parsley, 
half  a  pound  of  lean  ham,  and  half  a  pound  of  butter ;  pass 
it  over  a  slow  fire  twenty  minutes,  keeping  it  stirred ;  then 
add  half  a  bottle  of  Madeira  wine,  a  wineglassful  of  vinegar, 
and  six  quarts  of  broth  ;  boil  altogether  an  hour,  then  pass 
it  through  a  sieve  and  pour  the  liquor  into  the  kettle  over 
the  fish ;  set  the  fish  on  the  fire  to  stew  for  an  hour  or 
more,  according  to  the  size,  but  take  care  the  marinade 
does  not  cover  the  fish,  moisten  the  larded  part  now  and 
then  with  the  stock,  and  put  some  burning  charcoal  on  the 
lid  of  the  kettle ;  when  done  glaze  it  lightly,  dish  it  without 
a  napkin,  and  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  put  a  pint  of 
the  stock  your  fish  was  stewed  in  (having'  jH^viously  taken 
off  all  the  fat)  into  a  stewpan,  with  two  glasses  of  Madeira 
wine,  reduce  it  to  half,  then  add  two  quarts  of  brown  sauce 
(No.  1),  keep  it  stirred  over  the  fire  till  the  sauce  adheres  to 
the  back  of  the  wooden  spoon,  then  add  the  roes  of  four 
carp  or  mackarel  (cut  in  large  pieces,  but  be  careful  not  to 
break  them),  twenty  heads  of  very  white  mushrooms,  twenty 
cockscombs,  twelve  large  queneUes  of  whiting  (No.  124), 
and  finish  vnth  a  tablespoonful  of  essence  of  anchovies  and 
half  a  one  of  sugar,  pour  the  sauce  round  the  fish,  arrang- 
ing the  gamitiu'e  with  taste,  add  twelve  crawfish  to  the 
gamitmre,  having  previously  taken  off  all  the  small  claws ; 
serve  veiy  hot. 

This  dish  I  dare  say  wiQ  be  but  seldom  made  in  this 
country,  on  account  of  its  complication,  but  I  thought  pro- 
per to  give  it  on  account  of  the  high  estimation  in  which  it  is 
held  in  France ;  I  must  however  observe  that  I  have  omitted 
some  of  the  garniture  which  would  make  it  still  more  ex- 
pensive, and  if  there  should  be  any  difficulty  in  getting 
what  remains,  the  sauce  is  very  good  without. 


POI880K8.  141 

No.  345.  Piie  en  matelote. 

Stuff  and  bake  the  fish  as  before ;  when  done,  dress  it 
without  a  napkin,  and  pour  a  sauce  matelote  (see  Saumon 
en  matelote  mariniere.  No.  239)  in  the  middle  and  round 
the  fish,  and  serve  very  hot.  Or  the  fish  may  be  stewed  as 
in  the  last. 

No.  346.  Pike  a  la  Hollandaiae. 

Boil  the  fish  in  salt  and  water,  in  the  same  manner  as 
cod-fish;  drain  it  well,  dish  it  without  a  napkin,  pour  a 
sauce  Hollandaise  over  it.  (For  sauce,  see  Turbot  a  la 
Hollandaise,  No.  206.) 

No.  847.  SnuM  Pike  a  la  Meuniere. 

Crimp  a  small  pike,  it  must  not  weigh  more  than  two 
pounds,  bat  smaller  if  you  can  get  it,  and  proceed  exactly 
as  for  Sole  a  la  meuniere  (No.  260),  but  allow  it  more  time. 

No.  348.  Pike  toith  caper  sauce. 

Boil  the  fish  as  before,  and  have  ready  caper  sauce  made 

as  follows :  put  fifteen  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter  in  a 

st^wpan,  and  when  it  boils  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 

fresh  butter;   when  it  melts,  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of 

liaison  (No.  119) ;  let  it  remain  on  the  fire  to  thicken^  but 

do  not  let  it  boil ;  moisten  with  a  little  milk  if  required, 

then  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  capers,  and  pour  over  the 

fisL 

No.  349.  Pike  a  la  Maitre  ^ Hotel. 

Boil  the  fish  as  usual,  and  dish  it  without  a  napkin ; 
then  put  twelve  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter  in  a  stew- 
pan  ;  and  when  it  is  upon  the  point  of  boiling,  add  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  maitre  d'hotel  butter,  and  when  it  melts 
pour  over  and  romid  the, fish ;  serve  very  hot. 


142  paiBsoNs. 


No.  S50.  Pike  a  VEgyptienine. 

Cut  two  onions,  two  turnips,  one  carrot,  one  head  of 
celery,  and  one  leek  into  slices;  put  them  into  a  large 
stewpan  with  some  parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaves,  and  a  pint  of 
port  wine ;  then  have  your  fish  ready  trussed,  with  its  tail 
in  its  mouth ;  put  it  into  the  stewpan,  with  the  vegetables ; 
add  three  pints  of  broth,  and  set  it  on  a  nlow  fire  to  stew, 
with  some  hve  charcoal  upon  the  lid ;  try,  when  done,  by 
running  the  knife  close  in  to  the  back  bone ;  if  the  meat 
detaches  easily,  it  is  done;  take  it  out,  and  place  on  a 
bakbig  sheet;  dry  it  with  a  cloth,  then  egg  and  bread- 
crumb -it;  put  it  in  the  oven,  and  salamander  it  a  light 
brown;   th^i  put  twenty  tablespoonfuls  of  white  sauce 
(No.  7)  in  a  stewpan,  with  eight  of  milk,  and  reduce  it  five 
minutes ;  then  add  four  gherkins,  the  whites  of  four  hard- 
boiled  eggs,  and  two  truf9es,  cut  in  very  small  dice ;  finish 
vidth  two  tablespoonfuls  of  essence  of  anchovies,  the  juice  of 
half  a  lemon,  and  four  pats  of  butter ;  dress  the  fish  without 
a  napkin,  and  sauce  over. 

No.  851.  mieU  QfFike  a  U  MaUre  d'Hdtd. 

Fillet  three  small  pike  and  dress  them  in  the  manner 
described  in  Fillets  of  mackerel  a  la  Venitienne  (No.  807) ; 
dress  them  round  on  a  dish  without  a  napkin,  and  sauce 
over  with  the  same  sauce  as  Pike  a  la  maitre  d'h6tel. 

No.  852.  Fillets  of  Pike  en  matelote. 

If  for  a  dinner  for  twelve,  fillet  four  small  pike ;  ^g  and 
bread-crumb,  and  fiy  in  oil ;  dish  them  round  on  a  border 
of  mashed  potatoes  (previously  cutting  each  fillet  in  halves) 
and  serve  sauce  matelote  (No.  62)  in  the  centre. 


POI880K8«  143 

No.  853.  FiUets  of  Pike  a  la  Memiere. 

miet  four  pike  as  above,  cut  each  fillet  in  halves,  rub 
scHue  dicpped  eschalot  into  them,  dip  them  in  flour,  broil 
them ;  when  done,  sauce  as  for  Sole  a  la  meuniere  (No.  260). 
Observe,  if  you  happen  to  live  in  the  country  where  pike  is 
plentiful,  you  may  dish  the  fillets  in  as  many  ways  as  soles 
or  any  other  fish ;  but  I  have  omitted  giving  them  here, 
thinking  it  useless  to  fiiU  a  useful  book  with  so  many  repe- 
titions ;  we  have  several  ways  of  dressing  pike  to  be  eaten 
cold  in  France,  which  I  have  also  omitted,  as  they  would  be 
quite  useless  in  this  country. 

No.  354.  Carp  en  matelote. 

Have  your  fish  ready  deaued,  and  make  four  (x  five  in- 
cisions on  each  side ;  then  put  two  sliced  onions,  three  sprigs 
of  thyme  and  parsley,  and  half  a  pint  of  port  wine  in  a 
stewpan,  or  small  fish-kettle ;  season  the  fish  with  pepper 
and  salt,  lay  it  in  the  stewpan,  add  four  pints  of  broth,  and 
place  it  on  a  slow  fire  to  stew  for  an  hour  (which  will  be 
sufficient  Ux  a  fish  of  five  pounds  weight),  or  more  in  pro- 
portion to  the  size ;  when  done,  dress  it  on  a  dish,  without 
a  napkin  \  drain  it  well,  and  serve  a  matelote  sauce  (No.  62) 
over  it^  only  use  some  of  the  stock  firom  the  fish  (having 
previously  taken  c^  all  the  fat)  instead  of  plain  broth,  as 
directed  in  that  article. 

No.  355.  Carp  a  la  Genoise. 

Prepare  your  fish  as  above,  and  lay  it  in  your  fish-kettle, 
with  two  ounces  of  salt,  half  a  bottle  of  port  wine,  two 
onions,  two  turnips,  one  leek,  one  carrot  (cut  in  slices),  three 
bay-leaves,  six  cloves,  two  blades  of  mace,  and  a  sprig  of 
parsley,  cover  the  fish  with  white  broth ;  stew  it  as  before, 
dress  it  without  a  napkin,  prepare  a  sauce  Genoise  (No.  63), 
and  pour  over  it. 


144  POI880NS. 

No.  356.  Stewed  Carp  a  la  Marquise. 

Cook  the  fish  as  above,  and  when  done,  dress  it  on  a  dish 
without  a  napkin,  and  have  ready  the  followmg  sauce :  put 
twenty  tablespoonfiils  of  white  sauce  (No.  7)  in  a  stewpan,  | 

reduce  it  over  a  fire  until  rather  thick,  then  add  a  giQ  of  whipt 
cream,  two  tablespoonfiils  of  capers,  and  two  of  chopped 
gherkins ;  pour  over  the  fish,  then  sprinkle  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  chopped  beet-root  over  it,  and  serve. 

No.  357.  Carp  with  caper  sauce. 

Cook  the  fish  as  above,  and  dress  it  without  a  napkin ; 
then  put  twenty-five  tablespoonfiils  of  melted  butter  into  a 
stewpan,  and  when  nearly  boiling  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  fresh  butter ;  stir  it  till  the  butter  melts,  then  add  four 
tablespoonfiils  of  capers,  and  pour  over.  This  sauce  must 
be  rather  thick. 

No.  858.  Carp  fried. 

Open  the  fish  down  the  back  with  a  sharp  knife  irom  the 
head  to  the  tail,  cutting  off  half  the  head,  so  that  the  fish  is 
quite  flat ;  break  the  backbone  in  three  places,  but  allow 
the  roe  to  remain ;  then  dip  the  fish  in  flour,  and  fry  it  in 
hot  lard ;  dress  it  on  a  napkin,  garnish  with  parsley,  and 
serve  plain  melted  butter,  well  seasoned,  in  a  boat. 

No.  359.  Tench  en  matelote. 

This  fish,  though  not  much  thought  of  by  our  first-rate 
epicures,  is,  according  to  my  opinion,  superior  to  carp ;  in  a 
matelote  it  is  excellent. 

Have  your  fish  prepared  for  cooking,  and  put  them  into 
a  small  fish-kettle  (with  a  drainer) ;  and  if  two  middle-sized 
fish,  put  two  onions,  half  a  carrot,  one  tiunip,  three  bay- 
leaves,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  four  cloves,  a  blade  of  mace,  ten 


POI8SON8.  146 

allspice,  half  a  pint  of  port  wine,  and  half  a  pint  of  broth 
in  the  kettle  with  them ;  place  them  over  a  moderate  fire, 
stew  them  half  an  hour,  or  more  if  required ;  when  done 
drain  them  well ;  dress  without  a  napkin,  and  pour  a  mate- 
lote sauce  (No.  62)  over  them. 

No.  360.  Tench  a  la  Beyraut. 

Stew  the  fish  exactly  as  above,  dress  them  without  a 
napkin,  and  pour  a  sauce  Beyrout  (No.  64)  over  them. 

No.  361.  Tench  a  la  Foulette. 

Stew  the  fish  as  before,  only  use  bucellas  instead  of  port 
wine ;  then  peel  thirty  button  onions,  pass  them  in  a  stew- 
pan  (over  a  fire)  with  a  Uttle  powdered  sugar  and  butter  till 
they  are  covered  with  a  white  glaze ;  then  add  two  glasses 
of  bucellas  wine,  boil  it  three  minutes ;  then  put  twenty 
tablespoonfuls  of  white  sauce,  and  ten  of  the  stock  from  the 
fish  in  vrith  it,  and  let  it  simmer  on  the  comer  of  the  fire 
till  the  onions  are  quite  done,  keeping  it  well  skimmed; 
then  season  with  a  httle  pepper,  salt,  and  sugar,  and  add 
twenty  muscles  (blanched),  a  Uttle  chopped  parsley,  and  a 
tablespoonfal  of  lemon-juice ;  take  it  off  the  fire,  stir  in  four 
tablespoonfols  of  haison,  and  pour  over  the  fish ;  serve  veiy 
hot.  The  sauce  requires  to  be  thick  enough  to  weU  cover 
the  fish. 

No.  862.  Tench  sauce  aim  Maules.  . 

Stew  the  fish  as  before,  dish  it  up  without  a  napkin,  have 
ready  a  muscle  sauce  (No.  70)  pour  it  over  the  fish,  and 
serve  very  hot. 

No.  363.  Tench  fried  or  broiled. 

Is  very  good  served  with  anchovy  or  shrimp  sauce  in  a 
boat. 

10 


146  poissom. 

No  364.  Perch  a  la  HoUandaiae, 

Have  three  middling-sized  fishes  ready  prepared  for  cook- 
ing ;  then  put  two  ounces  of  butter,  two  onions  (in  slices), 
one  carrot  (cut  small),  some  parsley,  two  bay-leaves,  six 
cloves,  and  two  blades  of  mace  in  a  stewpan ;  pass  it  five 
minutes  over  a  brisk  fire,  then  add  a  quart  of  water,  two 
glasses  of  vinegar,  *one  ounce  of  salt,  and  a  little  pepper  ; 
boil  altogether  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and  pass  it  through  a 
sieve  into  a  small  fish-kettle ;  then  lay  the  fishes  into  it,  and 
let  them  stew  twenty  or  thirty  minutes  over  a  moderate 
fire ;  dress  them  on  a  dish  without  a  napkin,  and  pour  a 
sauce  HoUandaise  (No.  66)  over  them. 

No.  365.  Perch  a  la  Maitre  (T Hotel 

Prepare  and  cook  your  fish  as  above ;  then  put  twenty 
tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter  in  a  stewpan,  and  when  it 
is  upon  the  point  of  boiling,  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
Maitre  d'Hotel  butter  (No.  79)  and  pour  the  sauce  over 
the  fish,  which  dress  on  a  dish  without  a  napkin. 

No.  366.  SmaU  Perches  en  water  souchet. 

Cut  four  small  fishes  in  halves,  having  previously  taken 
off  all  the  scales,  and  proceed  precisely  as  for  Flounders  en 
water  souchet  (No.  331). 

No.  367.  Small  Perches  JHts  au  deurre. 

Scale  and  well  dry  six  perches,  and  make  incisions  here 
and  there  on  each  side  of  them ;  then  put  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  butter  into  a  saute-pan,  season  your  fishes  with 
pepper  and  salt,  put  them  in  the  saute-pan  and  &y  them 
gently,  turning  them  carefully ;  when  done,  dress  them  on 
a  napkin,  garnish  with  parsley,  and  serve  without  sauce. 

In  my  opinion,  they  are  much  better  cooked  this  way 


P0IS80NS.  147 

than  boiled  or  stewed;  large  fish  may  also  be  done  this 
way,  but  they  reqmre  more  butter,  and  must  cook  very 
slowly. 

No.  868.  li'out plain  boiled. 

Trout  that  is  caught  in  a  river  or  running  stream  is  pre- 
ferable to  that  caught  in  a  lake  or  pond ;  although  I  have 
had  very  fine  ones  from  ponds,  they  have  invariably  tasted 
muddy ;  in  fact  a  running  stream  is  better  for  all  fish  in 
this  respect ;  but  still  water  most  affects  the  flavour  of  the 
trout- 
Prepare  the  fish  for  cooking,  and  boil  it  in  salt  and 
water ;  if  it  weighs  two  pounds,  allow  it  half  an  hour,  and 
more  in  proportion;  dress  it  on  a  napkin,  garnish  with 
parsley,  and  serve  shrimp-sauce  in  a  boat. 

No.  869.  Trout  a  la  Maitre  d' Hotel 

Stew  the  fish  like  perch,  allowing  more  time  in  proportion 
to  the  size ;  dress  them  on  a  dish  without  a  napkin,  and 
sauce  the  same  as  Perche  a  la  Maitre  d'Hotel  (No.  866). 

No.  370.  Trout  a  la  Genoiae. 

Stew  the  fish  as  above,  dress  it  on  a  dish  without  a  nap- 
kin, and  pour  a  sauce  Genoise  (No.  68)  over  it. 

No.  371.  Baked  Trout 
Proceed  exactly  the  same  as  for  baked  pike  (No.  848.) 

No.  872.  Trout  a  la  Beyroui. 

Dry  your  fish  with  a  cloth,  flour  it,  and  lay  it  on  the 
gridiron ;  broil  it  nicely  over  a  moderate  fire ;  when  done^ 
peel  off  all  the  skin ;  dish  it  without  a  napkin,  and  pour  a 
sauce  Beyrout  (No.  64)  over  it. 


148  poissoNs. 

No.  373.  Fillet8  of  Trout  a  la  Mazarine. 

Fillet  a  fish,  and  cut  each  fillet  in  halves ;  fry  it  in  butter, 
like  perch,  dress  it  round  on  a  dish,  and  pour  a  sauce  Maza- 
rine over  them.  For  sauce,  see  Turbot  a  la  Mazarine, 
No.  207,  or  they  may  be  served  with  a  matelote  sauce  in 
change. 

No.  374.  Eels  fried. 

Cut  the  eels  in  pieces  about  three  inches  long,  dip  them 
in  flour,  egg  and  bread-crumb,  and  fry  them  in  very  hot 
lard,  dress  them  on  a  napkin,  garnish  with  parsley,  and 
serve  shrimp-sauce  in  a  boat. 

No.  375.  Uek  a  la  Tartare. 

Cut  the  eels  and  fry  as  above,  have  ready  some  Tartare 
sauce  (No.  38)  upon  a  cold  dish,  lay  the  eels  upon  it  and 
serve  immediately  \  should  the  eels  be  large  they  must  be 
three  parts  stewed  before  they  are  fried ;  dry  them  upon  a 
cloth  previous  to  bread-crumbing  them. 

No.  376.  Spitchcocked  Eels. 

Take  the  bones  out  of  the  eels  by  opening  them  from 
head  to  tail,  and  cut  them  in  pieces  about  four  inches  long, 
throw  them  into  some  flour,  then  have  ready  upon  a  dish 
about  a  couple  of  handfuls  of  bread-crumbs,  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  chopped  parsley,  a  httle  dried  thyme,  and  a  little 
cayenne  pepper,  then  egg  each  piece  of  eel  and  bread-crumb 
them  with  it,  fry  them  in  very  hot  lard,  dish  them  on  a 
napkin,  and  serve  shrimp-sauce  in  a  boat. 

No.  377.  Stewed  Eels, 

Cut  the  eels  in  pieces  as  before,  and  tie  each  piece  round 
with  packthread,  then  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  an 


POI880K8.  149 

onion,  a  tablespoonful  of  white  wine,  three  cloves,  three  whole 
aQspice,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay-leaf,  and  a 
little  white  broth,  sufficient  to  cover  them ;  place  them  over 
a  moderate  fire,  and  let  them  stew  gently  for  half  an  hoiur 
or  more,  if  required,  (according  to  the  size  of  the  eel,)  take 
them  out,  drain  them  on  a  napkin,  dish  them  without  a 
ni^kin,  and  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  put  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  chopped  onions  into  a  stewpan  with  four  table- 
apoonfols  of  white  wine,  and  eight  ditto  of  brown  sauce 
(No.  ]),  let  it  boil  gently  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  keeping 
it  stirred,  then  add  a  teaspoonful  of  essence  of  anchovies 
and  a  little  sugar,  and  pour  over  your  eels. 

No.  378.  Eeh  en  matelote. 

Stew  the  eels  as  above,  dress  them  without  a  napkin,  and 
pour  a  sauce  matelote  (No.  62)  over  them.  They  may 
also  be  served  with  a  sauce  a  la  Beyrout  (No.  64). 

No.  379.  Lampreys. 

Are  fish  not  so  often  used  as  eels,  though  they  are  re- 
markably good  eating ;  but  I  think  they  have  got  out  of 
repute  by  being  so  often  served  underdone ;  they  may  be 
stewed  in  the  same  manner  as  eels,  (only  a  lamprey  requires 
double  the  time  stewing  that  an  eel  of  the  same  size  would 
require),  and  serve  with  the  same  sauces,  with  matelote 
sauce  especially ;  if  you  fiy  or  broil  them  they  must  be 
three  parts  boiled  beforehand ;  to  try  when  done  run  a 
trussing  needle  into  them,  if  it  goes  in  easy  they  are  done. 

No.  380.  OrawfisA. 

These  are  very  favourite  Utile  shell-fish,  and  much  used 
in  France,  but  seldom  served  as  a  dish  in  this  country 
(they  are  not  good  when  in  s^  awn) ;  for  a  dish  have  two 
dozen  of  them  an  I  wash  in  several  waters  (choose  them  as 


150  P0ISS0N8. 

near  as  possible  of  equal  sizes),  then  put  them  in  a  stewpan, 
with  two  onions,  one  carrot,  one  turnip,  one  head  of  celery, 
six  bay-leaves,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  six  cloves,  twelve  pepper- 
corns, half  an  ounce  of  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper, 
a  quarter  ditto  of  cayenne,  two  glasses  of  vinegar,  four  of 
sherry,  and  half  a  pint  of  broth ;  place  them  over  a  very  brisk 
fire  for  twenty-five  minutes,  stirring  them  occasionally,  take 
them  off  the  fire  and  let  them  cool  in  their  stock,  put  them 
in  a  basin,  cover  them  with  the  stock,  but  strain  the  vege- 
tables away  firom  them,  and  use  for  garnishing  where  di- 
rected ;  to  make  a  dish  dress  them  on  butter  in  the  form  of 
a  bush,  mingling  very  green  double  parsley  with  them. 

There  are  some  few  other  sorts  of  fi*esh-water  fish  not 
very  jfrequently  used,  which  may  be  fried,  boiled,  or  stewed, 
in  some  of  the  ways  as  described  in  the  foregoing  list. 


•- 


151 


HORS-iyCEUVIlES, 
OR  BISHBS   TO    BE    HANDED    ROUND    THE    TABLE. 


No.  381.  Petits  Vol-au-Venta  a  la  Motile  de  Bcmf. 

Make  a  pound  of  puff  paste  (No.  1132),  roll  it  half  an 
inch  in  thickness,  then  cut  out  your  vol-au-vents  with  a 
fluted  cutter  rather  lai^er  than  a  five-shilling  piece ;  have 
readj  a  baking  sheet,  (on  which  you  have  sprinkled  some 
water,)  and  put  your  vol-au-vents  on  it,  egg  them  over 
with  a  paste  brush,  and  cut  a  top  with  a  small  plain 
cutter,  which  is  done  by  dipping  the  cutter  into  hot  water, 
and  just  marking  a  ring  upon  the  top  of  each  vol-au- 
vent,  but  do  not  cut  it  deep,  then  put  them  in  a  very  warm 
oven,  and  pay  particular  attention  to  the  baking  of  them, 
which  will  occupy  about  twenty  minutes,  keep  the  oven 
door  shut  as  much  as  possible,  take  them  out  when  done, 
and  with  the  point  of  a  knife  take  off  the  lid  without  break- 
ing it,  and  take  out  the  soft  paste  remaining  inside,  leaving 
them  quite  empty,  they  are  then  ready  for  immediate 
use ;  prepare  the  marrow  as  follows :  take  all  the  marrow 
from  a  beef  marrow-bone,  in  as  large  pieces  as  possible, 
have  ready  on  the  fire  a  stewpan  of  boiling  water,  into 
which  throw  the  marrow,  and  let  it  boil  ten  minutes,  then 
take  it  out  carefully  and  put  it  in  cold  water,  put  a  pint  of 
blown  sauce  (No.  1)  into  a  stewpan,  with  four  spoonfuls  of 
brown  gravy  (No.  135)  and  a  small  piece  of  glaze,"  and  reduce 
it  till  it  becomes  rather  thick,  then  cut  the  marrow  in  dice 
about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  square,  and  two  minutes  before 
serving  throw  it  into  the  sauce,  with  two  large  quenelles 
(No.  120)  also  cut  in  dice,  whilst  boihng,  previously  draining 
(hem  upon  a  cloth ;  warm  it  quickly,  season  with  a  httle  salt 


152  hors-d'ceuvres. 

and  sugar  if  required,  fill  the  vol-au-yentSy  and  dress  them 
on  a  napkin  pyramidically ;  serve  very  hot. 

No.  382.  PeHta  VoUau-Vents  au  laitance  de  Maqw^reau. 

Make  the  vol-au-vents  as  in  the  previous  article,  put  two 
ounces  of  butter  into  a  saute-pan,  rub  it  over  the  bottom, 
have  ready  four  soft  roes  of  mackerel,  then  put  into  the 
saute-pan  with  a  little  pepper,  salt,  chopped  parsley,  and 
a  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice;  set  them  over  a  moderate 
fire  five  minutes,  turn  them,  and  when  done  cut  them  in 
small  dice,  but  let  them  remain  in  the  saute-pan,  then  add 
eight  tablespoonfuls  of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  and  two  of  light 
broth,  a  httle  sugar,  and  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
cream ;  stir  it  over  the  fire  and  mix  it  well  without  breaking 
the  roes,  fill  your  vol-au-vents,  and  serve  very  hot  on  a  nap- 
kin ;  carp  roes  may  be  served  in  the  same  manner. 

No.  383.  Petita  Vbl-au-Vents  aufoiede  Bate. 

Make  the  vol-au-vents  as  above ;  boil  the  Uver  of  a  skate 
in  salt  and  water  an  hour,  let  it  get  cold,  put  six  table- 
spoonfuls of  white  sauce  (No.  7)  in  a  stewpan,  with  four  of 
hght  stock,  and  reduce  it  till  rather  thick,  then  add  a  little 
chopped  parsley,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  a  httle 
white  pepper,  sugar,  and  salt,  if  required ;  cut  the  liver  in 
small  dice,  with  four  quenelles  (No.  120),  put  it  in  the 
stewpan,  make  it  hot,  but  do  not  stir  it  much  or  you  will 
break  it,  add  a  Httle  lemon-juice,  fill  the  vol-au-vents,  and 
serve  as  before.  These  patties,  although  seldom  served, 
are  very  excellent  if  well  done  and  nicely  seasoned. 

No.  384.  Petits  Fol-au-Vents  aux  Huitrea. 

Prepare  the  vol-au-vents  as  before,  put  eight  tablespoon- 
fuls of  white  sauce  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  little  cayenne  pep- 
per, a  teaspoonful  of  essence  of  anchovies,  two  peppercorns. 


HORS-I>'(EUVR«S.  163 

lialf  a  blade  of  mace,  and  six  tablespoonfdls  of  liquor  firom  the 
oysters,  reduce  it  till  very  thick,  have  ready,  blanched  and 
bearded,  two  dozen  oysters  (No.  342),  cut  each  oyster  in  four 
pieces,  put  them  in  the  sauce,  (previously  taking  out  the  pep- 
percorns and  mace,)  with  a  Uttle  salt,  sugar,  and  lemon- 
juice,  make  it  hot  over  the  fire,  add  a  little  cream,  but  do  not 
let  it  boil,  or  the  oysters  would  become  tough  and  the  sauce 
very  thin :  fill  the  vol-au-vents  and  serve  on  a  napkin  as  before. 

No.  385.  Petits  VoUau-Vents  de  Homard. 

Prepare  the  vol-au-vents  as  usual,  put  eight  tablespoon- 
fids  of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  and  four  of  light  stock,  in  a 
stewpan,  with  a  little  cayenne  pepper,  salt,  and  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  essence  of  anchovies,  boil  it  ten  minutes,  then  cut  a 
small  hen  lobster  up  in  large  dice,  pound  the  red  spawn 
from  it  with  one  ounce  of  butter,  pass  it  through  a  hair 
sieve  and  mix  with  the  sauce ;  put  in  the  lobster,  make  it 
hot,  fill  your  vol-au-vent,  and  serve  as  before. 

N.  B.  The  last  four  dishes  may  be  made  maigre  by 
substituting  melted  butter  or  oyster  sauce  for  white  sauce. 

No.  386.  Petites  Bomheea  a  la  MoeUe  de  Bceuf. 

Are  made  in  the  same  manner  as  the  petits  vol-au-vents, 
but  the  paste  must  not  be  more  than  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
in  thickness,  and  the  bouchees  must  be  cut  with  a  fluted 
cutter  not  larger  than  half-a-crown  piece,  bake  them  in  a 
warmer  oven  than  the  vol-au-vents,  prepare  the  beef  mar- 
row, fill  and  serve  the  same  as  No.  381. 

No.  387.  Petites  Bouchees  an  laitance  de  Maquereau. 

Make  the  bouchees  as  before,  and  prepare  the  mackerel 
roes  the  same  as  for  petits  vol-au-vents  (No.  382). 

No.  388.  Petites  Bouchees  aufoie  de  Baie. 
Prepare  them  as  usual,  and  proceed  as  for  No.  383. 


154  HOB8-d'(EUV&B8. 

No.  389.  Petites  Bouchees  aux  Huitrea. 

Prepare  them  as  befoie,  and  proceed  as  for  vol-au-vents 
(No.  384). 

No.  390.  Petites  Bouchees  de  Homard. 

Prepare  them  as  before,  and  proceed  as  for  vol-au- vents 

fNo.  385). 

No.  331.  Petites  Bouchees  a  la  Beine. 

Prepare  them  as  usual,  pick  the  meat  of  the  half  of  a 
braised  chicken,  and  cut  it  in  veiy  small  dice  (not  la;i^r 
than  peas),  cut  about  the  same  size  one  ounce  of  cooked 
tongue,  six  blanched  mushrooms,  and  two  middling-sized 
French  truffles;  mix  altogether,  then  put  twenty  table- 
spoonfuls  of  white  sauce  (No.  7)  in  a  stewpan,  with  eight  of 
milk,  reduce  it  to  one  half,  then  add  the  minced  fowl,  tongue, 
&c.,  season  with  aUttle  lemon-juice,  pepper,  salt,  sugar,  and 
two  spoonfuls  of  cream ;  serve  them  very  hot  on  a  napkin. 

No.  392.  Petites  Bouchees  a  la  puree  de  Volatile. 

Prepare  them  as  before,  take  about  half  a  pound  of  the 
flesh  of  chicken,  turkey,  or  any  description  of  poultry; 
pound  it  well  in  a  mortar,  with  half  an  ounce  of  lean  boiled 
ham,  then  put  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  eschalots  in  a  stew- 
pan,  with  half  an  ounce  of  butter,  pass  them  over  the  fire, 
stirring  them  with  a  wooden  spoon,  then  add  a  Uttle  flour, 
mix  it  well  with  the  butter  and  eschalots,  then  add  the 
pounded  meat,  four  spoonfuls  of  white  sauce,  and  half  a 
pint  of  good  stock  that  the  bones  of  the  poultry  have  been 
previously  boiled  in,  boil  altogether  a  quarter  of  an  hour, 
season  vnth  a  Uttle  white  pepper,  salt,  and  sugar,  pass  it 
through  a  tammie  by  rubbing  it  with  two  wooden  spoons, 
put  it  into  another  stewpan,  boil  it,  finish  with  a  table- 


HOB8-b'(EUYBJU3.  156 

spoonful  of  liaison,  fill  the  bouchees,  and  serve  on  a  napkin 
very  hot. 

No.  898.  Petites  JBouciees  de  Gibier. 

Prepare  the  bouchees  as  before,  put  twenty  tablespoon- 
fols  of  game  sauce  (No.  60)  in  a  stewpan,  then  cut  up  into 
small  dice  the  flesh  of  a  grouse,  partridge,  half  a  pheasant, 
or  the  remains  of  any  game  you  might  happen  to  have  by 
you,  put  it  m  the  stewpan  with  the  sauce,  make  it  hot  but 
do  not  let  it  boil,  season  with  a  little  sugar  and  salt,  fill  and 
serve  as  before. 

No.  894.  Petites  Bouchees  a  la  puree  de  Gibier. 

Prepare  them  as  before,  and  proceed  as  for  the  petites 
bouchees  a  la  puree  de  volaille,  (No.  892)  only  using  the  flesh 
of  game,  and  game  sauce,  instead  of  the  flesh  of  poultry 
and  white  sauce. 

No.  395.  Petita  Pates  a  la  Pdtissiere. 

}ILake  one  pound  of  pufi*  paste  (No.  1182),  roU  it  into  a 
sheet  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  then  cut  twenty 
pieces  of  the  size  of  a  five-shilling  piece  with  a  plain  round 
cutter;  mix  the  remains  of  the  paste  together,  and  roll 
them  out  to  the  thickness  of  the  eighth  of  an  inch,  and  cut 
twenty  more  pieces  from  it  with  the  same  cutter,  sprinkle  a 
baking  sheet  with  water  and  lay  them  on  it  a  Uttle  distanee 
apart,  wash  them  over  with  a  Uttle  water  with  a  paste 
brush,  then  have  ready  prepared  in  a  basin  half  a  pound  of 
forcemeat  of  veal,  fowl,  or  game  (Nos.  120,  122,  123), 
with  which  mix  half  an  ounce  of  beef  marrow  chopped 
very  fine,  one  eschalot,  a  Uttle  parsley  also  chopped  fine, 
and  the  yolk  of  an  egg ;  mix  well  together  with  a  wooden 
spoon,  then  put  a  Uttle  lump  of  the  forcemeat  half  the  size 
of  a  walnut  on  each  piece  of  paste  on  the  baking  sheet. 


156  H0R8-d'(EUVRES. 

cover  them  over  with  the  twenty  pieces  of  paste  you  first 
cut,  and  close  them  well  at  the  edges  by  pressing  them 
down  with  the  top  part  of  a  smaller  cutter,  egg  the  tops  over, 
but  be  careful  that  the  egg  does  not  run  down  the  sides,  or 
it  would  prevent  the  patties  from  rising  straight,  put  them 
in  rather  a  hot  oven  and  bake  them  about  twenty  minutes  ; 
dish  them  in  pyramid  on  a  napkin  and  serve ;  to  be  good 
they  should  be  served  directly  they  are  taken  from  the  oven ; 
care  should  be  taken  not  to  put  too  much  forcemeat  ia 
them,  or  it  will  upset  them  in  baking. 

No.  896.  Petits  Fates  (mx  Huitrea  a  la  Pdtimere. 

Proceed  as  above,  but  instead  of  using  forcemeat  use 
some  of  the  salpicon  of  oysters  as  prepared  for  the  rissoles 
aux  huitres  (No.  399). 

No.  897.  Petits  Pates  de  Homard  a  la  Pdtissiere. 

Proceed  as  above,  using  some  of  the  salpicon  as  prepared 
for  the  rissoles  de  homard  (No.  400). 

No.  398.  Petits  Pates  of  Shrimps  or  Prawns  a  la  Pdtissiere. 

As  before,  using  the  salpicon  of  shrimps  as  prepared  for 
rissoles  of  shrimps  or  prawns  (No.  401). 

No.  399.  Rissoles  aux  Huitres. 

Put  half  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  onions  into  a  stew- 
pan,  with  half  an  ounce  of  butter,  place  it  over  the  fire,  fry 
the  onions,  but  they  must  be  kept  white ;  then  add  half  a 
teaspoonftd  of  flom*,  and  twelve  of  oyster  liquor,  (mix  well) 
and  eight  tablespoonfuls  of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  boil  alto- 
gether ten  minutes  (or  more  till  it  becomes  rather  thickish), 
keeping  it  stirred  the  whole  time,  season  with  a  little 
cayenne  pepper,  and  salt,  (it  requires  to  be  seasoned  rather 
high,)  then  have  ready  blanched  three  dozen  of  oysters,  cut 


hors-d'cbuvre.  157 

each  into  four  pieces,  dry  them  on  a  cloth,  and  put  them 
intx)  the  sauce,  let  them  boil  two  minutes,  add  a  few  diops 
of  essence  of  anchovies,  and  three  yolks  of  eggs,  stir  again 
oyer  the  fire  a  minute  to  set  the  eggs,  then  put  it  out  on  a 
dish  and  set  it  to  get  cold ;  make  half  a  pound  of  puff  paste 
(No.  1132),  roll  it  ten  times,  (or  the  trinmiings  of  paste 
previously  made  wiU  do,)  roll  it  out  as  thin  as  a  shilling, 
then  cut  it  out  with  a  round  cutter  the  size  of  the  top  of  a 
small  teacup,  lay  a  teaspoonful  of  the  preparation  of  oyster 
on  each  piece,  wet  it  round  with  the  paste  brush,  turn  one 
edge  over  on  to  the  other  and  close  it  well,  then  egg  and 
bread-crumb  them,  fry  in  very  hot  lard  (enough  for  them 
to  swim  in),  when  done  dish  them  on  a  napkin,  gar- 
nish with  fried  parsley  and  serve  very  hot;  it  will  take 
about  five  minutes  to  fiy  them. 

No.  400.  Rissoles  de  Homard. 

Put  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  onions  into  a  ste^n  ynth 
half  an  ounce  of  firesh  butter,  fry  them  white,  then  add  ten 
or  fifteen  tablespoonfuls  of  white  sauce  (according  to  the 
size  of  the  lobster),  stir  over  the  fire  and  let  it  boU  five 
minutes,  or  more,  until  rather  thick,  have  a  firesh  lobster 
cut  up  into  small  dice,  put  it  into  the  sauce,  season  with 
cayenne  pepper,  salt,  a  Uttle  chopped  parsley,  juice  of  a 
lemon,  and  a  few  drops  of  essence  of  anchovies,  let  it  boil  a 
minute,  then  add  two  yolks  of  eggs,  stir  it  over  the  fire 
another  minute,  to  set  the  eggs,  and  pour  it  out  on  a  dish  to 
get  cold ;  make  and  serve  the  rissoles  as  in  the  last  article. 

No.  401.  Rissoles  of  Shrimps. 

Prepare  the  salpicon  exactly  the  same  as  the  lobster  in 
the  last  article,  but  be  careful  that  the  shrimps  are  not  too 
salt  prawns  are  better  for  this  purpose  than  shrimps ;  they 
require  but  very  little  seasonmg ;  make,  firy,  and  serve  the 
rissoles  as  before. 


158  hoes-d'(EUVrk. 

No.  402.  Rissoles  de  laitances  de  Maquereau. 

Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  in  a  saute-pan,  rub  it 
over  the  bottom,  lay  in  the  soft  roes  of '  four  mackerel,  sea- 
son them  with  a  Uttle  white  pepper,  salt,  a  teaspoonfiii  of 
lemon-juice,  and  a  very  little  chopped  parsley ;  place  them 
over  a  moderate  fire  five  minutes,  turn  them,  but  do  not 
let  them  get  the  least  brown ;  when  quite  done  cut  them 
into   small   dice  without  breaking,  then  put  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  chopped  eschalots  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  few 
drops  of  salad  oil ;  fry  them  quite  white,  then  mix  half  a 
teaspoonfiii  of  flour  with  them,  and  ten  tablespoonfuls  of 
white  sauce  (No.  7),  stir  it  over  the  fire,  and  boil  till  it 
becomes  very  thick  (as  the  roes  of  mackerel  are  so  very 
deUcate),  season  with  a  httle  cayenne  pepper,  salt,  and  a 
little  sugar  if  required ;  then  put  in  two  yolks  of  eggs,  mix 
well,  and  add  the  mackerel  roes,  stir  it  very  gently  over  the 
fire  till  the  eggs  become  set,  then  put  it  on  a  dish  to  get 
cold ;  make,  dress,  and  serve  the  rissoles  as  before.     This 
deUcate  hors-d'oBUvre  requires  great  attention  and  prop^ 
seasoning. 

No.  403.  Bissoles  de  Gibier. 

Roast  a  grouse  or  any  other  bird  rather  underdone,  or 
the  remains  of  some  game  left  from  a  previous  dinner  will 
do,  pick  the  meat  off  the  bones  and  cut  it  into  very  small 
dice ;  then  put  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  eschalots  in  a  stew- 
pan,  with  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  butter,  firy  them  rather 
brown,  add  ten  tablespoonfuls  of  game  sauce  (if  none, 
make  some  with  the  bones  as  directed.  No.  60),  and  four  of 
brown  ditto  (No.  1),  reduce  over  the  fire  till  it  becomes 
rather  thick,  season  with  a  httle  cayenne  pepper,  salt,  a 
teaspoonful  of  chopped  mushrooms,  and  a  teaspoonful  oi 
wine ;  let  it  boil,  then  add  the  game,  with  a  Uttle  sugar  and 


hous-d'cbuvbjb.  169 

two  yolks  of  eggs,  stir  it  gently  over  the  fire  just  to  set 
the  eggSy  pour  it  on  a  dish  to  cool ;  make,  dress,  and  serve 
the  rissoles  as  before. 

No.  404.  Bmolea  de  VolaiUe. 

Cut  half  a  roast  (or  boiled)  fowl  up  into  very  small  dice, 
then  put  a  teaspoonfiil  of  chopped  eschalots  in  a  stewpan, 
with  half  an  ounce  of  butter,  fry  them  quite  white,  then 
add  sixteen  tablespoonfuls  of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  put  it 
over  the  fire  to  reduce  till  it  is  rather  thick,  put  the  fowl 
into  the  sauce,  season  with  a  httle  salt,  white  pepper,  sugar, 
a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  mushrooms,  and  a  little  chopped 
parsley ;  let  it  boil  a  few  minutes,  then  stir  in  the  yolks  of 
two  eggs,  let  them  set,  and  pour  it  on  a  dish  to  cool  (a 
fittle  ham  or  tongue  may  be  mixed  with  the  above,  if 
required ;)  make,  firy,  and  serve  the  rissoles  as  before. 

Bissoles  may  also  be  made  of  turkey,  pigeons,  veal,  lamb, 
sweetbread,  &c.,  by  following  the  above  receipt,  and  using 
either  one  or  the  other  of  those  articles  instead  of  fowl. 

No.  405.  Crotistctde  de  Seurre. 

Have  ready  a  lump  of  fresh  butter  very  hard  and  cut  it 
into  slices  one  inch  and  a  half  in  thickness,  lay  them  upon 
a  table  or  slab  in  a  cool  place ;  then  take  a  round  cutter  the 
size  of  half-a-crown,  and  with  it  cut  twelve  pieces  of  the 
butter  out  of  the  shoes,  beat  up  three  or  four  eggs  on  a 
plate,  put  the  pieces  of  butter  into  them,  then  take  them 
out  and  throw  them  into  a  dish  of  bread-crumbs,  take  them 
out,  throw  them  again  into  the  eggs,  and  then  the  bread- 
crumbs, repeating  the  process  three  times,  lay  them  upright 
upon  the  table,  and  mark  a  ring  a  httle  larger  than  a 
shilling  on  the  top  of  each  with  a  smaller  cutter,  stand  them 
in  a  wire  basket  and  fry  in  very  hot  lard,  of  a  nice  light- 
brown  colour,  and  very  crisp,  take  them  out,  take  off  the 


160  H0R8-d'<EUVRE. 

lids,  empty  them  with  care,  and  you  will  save  nearly  all  the 
butter  from  them,  turn  them  topsy-turvey  in  a  dry  place 
until  wanted ;  when  ready  to  serve  put  them  in  the  oven  a 
short  time  to  get  hot,  and  fill  with  any  of  the  preparations 
for  petites  bouchees.  You  may  form  the  croustades  in  dia- 
monds, or  any  shape  your  fancy  dictates ;  they  make  very 
beautiful  hors-d'oeuvres,  and  very  cheap,  as  with  care  you 
may  save  the  butter,  which  when  cold  may  be  applied  to 
any  other  purpose. 

No.  406.  Croustade  de  Beurre  a  la  Duke  of  York. 

Prepare  the  croustades  as  above,  and  make  a  good  puree 
of  fowl  (as  for  petites  bouchees  a  la  puree  de  volaille.  No. 
392),  then  peel  a  good  sized  cucumber,  cut  it  in  pieces  two 
inches  long,  and  divide  each  piece  into  three  lengthwise, 
take  out  the  seeds,  and  stew  the  pieces  of  cucumber  till 
very  tender,  with  a  Uttle  sugar,  onion,  and  broth,  keeping 
them  very  white ;  when  cold  cut  them  in  small  dice,  mix 
with  the  puree  of  fowl,  fill  the  croustades,  and  serve  very 
hot  with  a  plover's  egg  upon  the  top  of  each. 

No.  407.  Croquettes  de  Homard. 

Prepare  a  salpicon  of  lobster  the  same  as  for  rissoles  de 
homard ;  when  quite  cold  cut  it  out  in  pieces  two  inches 
long  and  three  quarters  of  an  inch  wide,  beat  up  three  or 
four  eggs  on  a  plate,  and  throw  each  piece  into  them  and 
then  into  a  dish  of  bread-crmnbs,  take  them  out,  roll  them 
lightly  with  the  hand,  beat  them  gently  with  a  knife  to 
make  the  crombs  stick,  then  throw  them  again  into  the 
eggs  and  bread-crumb,  smooth  them  again  with  a  knife, 
fry  in  hot  lard,  and  dress  them  on  a  napkin  garnished 
with  fried  parsley;  they  may  be  made  in  the  form  of  pears 
or  any  way  that  fancy  dictates,  giving  them  the  shape  pre- 
vious to  bread-cnimbing  them.     Croquettes  may  be  made 


hors-d'cbuyee.  161 

c^  any  of  the  preparations  for  rissoles  by  following  the  above 
directioii. 

No.  408.  AiffuUlettes  de  Bis  de  Veau, 

For  these  kind  of  hors-d'ceuvres  it  is  necessary  to  have 
twelve  small  silver  skewers,  about  four  inches  long  and  the 
thickness  of  a  packing-needle,  with  a  ring  or  fan(^  design 
on  the  top,  they  are  not  very  expensive  but  are  very  novel 
for  this  description  of  dishes ;  the  persons  eating  what  is 
served  upon  them  taking  the  head  of  the  skewer  with  the 
fingers  of  their  left  hand  and  picking  it  off  with  their  fork. 
Boil  three  throat  sweetbreads  in  water  ten  minutes,  pour 
oR  the  water  and  add  one  onion,  one  carrot,  one  turnip, 
two  bay-leaves,  and  a  pint  of  white  broth,  let  them  simmer 
about  twenty  minutes  till  firm,  then  take  them  out  of 
the  broth  lay  them  on  a  clean  cloth,  cut  them  in  pieces, 
with  a  long  round  cutter,  about  the  size  of  a  shilling,  and 
season  with  pepper  and  salt;  then  chop  two  eschalots 
very  fine  and  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  an  ounce  of  but- 
ter ;  trj  them  quite  white,  add  ten  tablespoonfols  of  white 
sauce  (No.  7),  and  eight  of  hght  stock,  reduce  until 
rather  thick,  add  two  yolks  of  eggs  and  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon,  take  it  off  the  fire,  but  do  not  let  it  boil  after  the 
yolks  of  eggs  are  in,  then  dip  each  piece  of  sweetbread  into 
the  sauce  with  a  fork,  and  lay  them  on  a  dish  till  cold,  then 
nm  the  skewers  through  the  centre  of  each  piece,  putting 
two  pieces  on  each  skewer,  have  ready  four  eggs  well 
beaten  on  a  plate,  dip  each  skewer  into  the  eggs  and  then 
into  the  bread-crumbs  twice  over,  fiy  in  hot  lard,  and 
serve  them  very  hot  on  a  napkin. 

No.  409.  AiffuiUettea  {escalopes)  amx  JButtres. 

Put  eighteen  tablespoonfols  of  good  oyster  sauce  (No.  69) 
into  a  stewpan,  reduce  it  until  rather  thick,  then  add  two 

11 


162  hobs-d'osuyre. 

yolks  of  eggs,  stir  them  well  in,  and  take  it  off  the  fire  ; 
choose  rather  small  oysters,  have  them  ready  blanched  and 
bearded,  dip  them  one  by  one  into  the  sauce  with  a  fork, 
and  lay  them  on  a  dish  to  cool ;  when  quite  cold  run  the 
skewers  through  (placing  five  on  each  skewer),  dip  them  in 
eggs  and  bread-crumbs  twice  over  as  before,  fry  them  ia 
hot  lard,  and  serve  very  hot  on  a  napkin. 

No.  410.  Aiguillettes  {escalopes)  de  Homard, 

Cut  forty  pieces  of  lobster  the  size  round  of  a  shilling, 
and  one  inch  in  thickness,  then  put  a  teaspoonfiil  of 
chopped  eschalots  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  very  small  piece  of 
butter,  fry  them  quite  white,  then  add  eight  tablespoonfuls 
of  oyster  sauce  (No.  69),  reduce  tiU  rather  thick,  season 
with  a  little  sugar,  cayenne,  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon, 
finish  with  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  dip  the  pieces  of  lobster 
into  it  and  proceed  as  before ;  fry,  dish,  and  serve  in  the 
same  maimer ;  the  onions  may  be  avoided  if  objectionable. 

No.  411.  Jiffuillettea  defileU  de  Sole. 

Fillet  a  sole,  butter  a  saute-pan,  lay  in  the  fillets,  season 
with  pepper,  salt,  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  place  them  over 
a  slow  fire  and  when  done  lay  them  flat  on  a  dish,  place 
another  dish  on  them,  upon  which  put  a  four  pounds 
weight,  when  cold  cut  them  in  pieces  with  a  cutter  the  size 
of  a  shiUiug,  prepare  oyster  sauce  as  above,  dip  each  piece 
in  the  sauce  and  proceed  exactly  as  before. 

No.  412.  Aiguillettes  aux  Huitres. 

Make  a  preparation  of  oysters  the  same  as  for  rissoles  aux 
huitres,  adding  one  more  yolk  of  egg ;  when  cold  make 
thin  croquettes  two  inches  long,  egg  and  bread-crumb 
them  once,  pass  a  silver  skewer  through  each,  then  egg  and 


HOaS-B'cBUYEB.  168 

bread-€3rnmb  agauii  fry  and  serve  on  a  napkin  with  fried 
parsley. 

No.  413.  AiffuiUettes  de  Homard. 

Make  the  preparation  as  for  croquettes  de  homard  (No. 
407),  and  proceed  exactly  as  in  the  last. 

No.  414.  AiffuUlettes  de  Sole. 

Make  a  preparation  as  for  croquettes  de  homard,  only 
using  the  fillets  of  soles  instead  of  lobster,  and  proceed  as 
before. 

No.  415.  AiffuUettes  de  Volatile  a  lajoUefUe. 

Make  a  preparation  as  for  rissoles  de  volaille  (No.  404), 
but  adding  tongue,  truffles,  and  pistachios  cut  in  small  fillets ; 
when  cold  make  them  into  croquettes  about  two  inches 
long,  but  do  not  bread-crumb  them ;  pass  a  silver  skewer 
through,  then  have  ready  some  batter  for  frying  (No.  1285), 
hold  each  skewer  by  the  head,  pour  some  batter  over  each 
crocjuette  with  a  spoon,  covering  every  part  of  them,  and 
fry  in  lard,  but  not  too  hot,  as  they  must  be  quite 
white  and  crisp ;  dress  them  on  a  napkin  and  serve  very  hot. 
For  Aigoilettes  de  Gibier  a  la  joUe  fille  proceed 
exactly  as  above,  only  using  game  in  the  preparation  in- 
stead of  fowl. 

In  France  hors-d'oeuvres  are  made  of  tastefully  dressed 
anchovy  salads,  olives,  ftc.,  to  invigorate  the  appetite, 
which  is  unrequired  at  this  almost  the  commencement  of 
the  dinner. 


164 


REMOVES. 


No.  416.  Croustades  of  Bread  for  removes. 

Although  it  is  against  my  principle  to  have  any  unneces- 
sary ornamental  work  in  a  dinner,  I  am  rather  partial  to 
these  croustades,  they  being  simple  and  very  elegant.  It 
would  be  quite  useless  my  attempting  to  explain  by  receipts 
the  manner  in  which  they  are  made,  as  so  much  depends 
upon  the  taste  and  skill  of  the  artist.  Having  invented 
several  new  removes  requiring  croustades  of  diflferent  de- 
signs, I  have  had  them  engraved,  and  think  I  may  say 
that  the  whole  of  the  designs  there  represented  are  quite 
original.  These  croustades  are  cut  out  of  one  or  two  loaves 
of  bread ;  when  cut  in  separate  pieces  they  are  joined  by 
running  a  silver  skewer  (or  attelet)  through  them ;  the  body 
of  the  croustades  is  fried  in  lard,  of  a  nice  straw-colour, 
and  the  small  ornaments  attached  are  cut  with  cutters  and 
fried  in  oil,  some  must  be  kept  quite  white  and  others 
allowed  to  get  very  black ;  they  are  fixed  to  the  body  of 
the  croustade  with  a  stiffish  paste  made  of  whites  of  eggs 
and  flour ;  my  reason  for  departing  from  the  old-fashioned 
custom  of  placing  them  in  the  centre  of  a  dish  and  putting 
them  at  the  head,  is  that  it  facilitates  the  carving,  and  you 
are  not  so  subject  to  get  pieces  of  it  in  your  plate  with  the 
sauce,  besides  which  I  think  it  has  a  more  novel  appear- 
ance, and  makes  the  dish  more  elegant. 

No.  417.  7b  obtairiy  lard,  and  dress  afiUet  of  Beef 

A  fillet  of  beef  can  only  be  procured  in  this  country  by 
purchasiag  a  rump  and  sirloin  together,  (in  France  it  is 
sold  as  a  separate  joint,)  but  the  rump  and  sirloin  can  be 


I 
I 

L 
I 


REMOVES.  165 

used  for  other  dishes,  or  for  the  servants'  meals,  and  in 
famiUes  where  they  kiU  their  own  meat,  it  is  of  no  conse- 
qnence.  To  cut  out  the  fillet  lay  the  rump  and  sirloin 
upon  the  table,  the  inside  uppermost,  then  pass  your  knife 
along  dose  to  the  chine  bone,  keeping  the  knife  close  to 
the  bone  until  you  get  past  the  fillet,  then  conmience  cut- 
ting upwards  through  the  fat,  which  trim  from  the  fillet, 
except  a  little  at  the  sides,  then  with  a  sharp  knife  take  all 
the  skin  from  the  top  of  the  fillet,  beat  it  lightly,  and  lard 
it  nicely  lengthwise  with  small  lardons  of  fat  bacon,  two 
inches  in  length,  and  the  thickness  of  a  quill;  have  pre- 
pared and  cut  in  shces  six  onions,  two  carrots,  two  turnips, 
one  head  of  celery,  one  leek,  a  handful  of  parsley,  a  few 
sprigs  of  thyme,  and  six  bay-leaves,  moisten  with  a  teacup- 
ful  of  salad  oil,  lay  your  fiDet  on  a  large  dish  and  cover 
with  the  vegetables,  let  it  remain  thus  all  night ;  to  cook  it 
run  a  lar]c  spit  through  the  length  of  the  fillet,  lay  all  the 
vegetables  upon  four  sheets  of  paper,  (or  more,  for  if  not 
sufficient  paper  it  will  burst  and  the  vegetables  fall  in  the 
dripping-pan,)  lay  the  fillet  upon  them,  cover  and  tie  it  up 
surrounded  with  the  vegetables;  baste  it  well  when  you 
first  put  it  to  the  fire,  to  prevent  the  paper  from  burning, 
roast  an  hour  and  a  half  or  a  little  longer  before  a  good 
fire;  when  done,  take  it  from  the  vegetables,  glaze  the 
larded  part,  brown  Ughtly  with  the  salamander,  and  it  is 
ready  to  be  sauced  and  served.  It  may  also  be  roasted 
without  the  vegetables,  but  then  an  hour  would  suffice. 

No.  418.  FiUet  of  Beef  a  la  Joan  ffArc. 

Prepare  and  cook  the  fillet  as  described,  then  cut  a 
croustade  in  the  form  of  a  breast-plate  (see  plate),  fix  it 
at  the  head  of  the  dish  upon  paste,  then  lay  your  fillet 
in  the  middle  of  a  dish,  make  a  small  border  of  mashed 
potatoes  round,  upon  which  alternately  place  a  small  que- 


166  REMOVES. 

nelle  (No.  120)  and  a  small  fiUet  of  tongne,  to  match; 
proceed  in  like  manner  all  the  way  round,  then  have  ready 
nicely  boiled  twenty  heads  of  fine  asparagus,  cut  half  of 
them  five  inches  in  length,  and  the  remainder  three  inches, 
dress  them  inside  of  the  croustade  on  the  top  to  represent 
arrows,  pour  a  jus  d'eschalotte  sauce  (No.  16)  over  the  fiUet, 
glaze  the  quenelles  and  tongue,  and  serve  very  hot. 

No.  419.  MUet  of  Beef  a  la  Beyrout 

Prepare  and  dress  the  fillet  as  before,  then  cut  a  crous- 
tade of  bread  representing  the  wall  of  a  citadel,  form  the 
cannons  with  stewed  carrots,  and  the  balls  with  truffles, 
place  it  on  mashed  potatoes  at  the  head  of  the  dish,  lay  the 
fillet  in  the  centre,  make  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes  round, 
rather  high,  close  to  the  croustade  on  each  side,  but  di- 
minishing as  you  go  from  it ;  have  ready  twenty  crawfish, 
place  them  on  the  potatoes,  tails  upwards,  pour,  a  sauce 
Beyrout  (No.  64)  round  the  fillet ;  glaze  and  serve. 

I  must  here  observe  that  as  crawfish  are  frequently  served 
to  garnish  calf's  head,  I  see  no  impropriety  in  using  them 
to  garnish  beef. 

No.  420.  FiUet  of  Beef  au  jus  ^  Orange. 

■ 

Prepare  and  dress  the  fillet  as  described  (No.  417),  dish  it 
up  plain  and  serve  with  jus  d'orange  sauce  (No.  1 7)  over  it. 

No.  421.  Fillet  ofBeefaujm  de  Ihmate. 

Prepare  and  dress  the  fillet  as  described  above,  dish  it 
up  plain,  pour  the  sauce  au  jus  de  tomate  (No.  12)  round 
it ;  glaze  and  serve  very  hot. 

No  422.  Fillet  of  Beef  Napolitaine. 

Prepare  and  dress  the  fillet  as  described  (No.  417),  place 
it  in  the  centre  of  the  dish,  have  ready  two  croustades,  the 


R£M0y£8.  167 

shape  and  size  of  scallop  shells,  fix  one  at  each  end  of  the 

fillet  on  mashed  potatoes,  and  fill  them  with  firesh  scraped 

horseradish,  then  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  make  a 

mierpoix  of  two  onions,  two  turnips,  one  carrot,  one  apple,  a 

quarter  of  a  pound  of  lean  ham  (cut  in  thin  slices),  half  a 

cloTe  of  garUc,  one  bay-leaf,  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of  salad 

oil ;  pass  the  whole  twenty  minutes  over  a  slow  fire  (in  a 

stewpan),  then  add  four  tablespoonfuls  of  Tarragon  vinegar, 

boil  it  five  minutes,  add  a  pint  and  a  half  of  brown  sauce 

(No.  1),  and  a  pint  of  consomme  (No.  134) ;  reduce  it  to  half, 

skim  off  all  the  oil,  then  add  six  tablespoonfuls  of  very  red 

tomate  sauce,  one  ditto  of  orange  marmalade,  and  two  of 

currant  jelly,   let  it  boil  a  few  minutes  longer,  pass  it 

through  9  tammie  into  another  stewpan,  season  rather  high, 

have  ready  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  Smyrna  raisins  (well 

soaked  in  water  for  one  hour),  and  twelve  of  the  best 

quality  French  plums  cut  in  quarters  lengthwise,   throw 

them  into  the  sauce,  make  it  hot,  pour  round  the  beef, 

which  glaze  very  nicely  and  serve. 

No.  423.  Fillet  of  Beef  a  la  Strasbouryienne. 

Prepare  and  dress  your  fillets  as  directed,  adding  four 
glasses  of  sherry  to  the  vegetables  you  roast  it  in ;  prepare 
two  croustades  the  size  and  shape  of  scallop  shells,  dress 
your  beef  in  the  middle  of  the  dish,  placing  a  croustade 
(on  mashed  potatoes)  at  each  end ;  have  ready  previously 
boiled  two  pounds  of  Strasburg  bacon  (which,  from  its  dry 
nature  requires  soaking  two  days  and  boiling  four  hours), 
cut  it  in  sUces  two  inches  long,  and  have  an  equal  number 
of  sliced  of  fried  potatoes  to  match,  make  a  border  of 
mashed  potatoes  round  the  beef,  and  dress  the  slices  of 
bacon  and  fried  potatoes  alternately  upon  it,  have  ready  pre- 
pared the  following  sauce  :  put  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped 
eschalots  in  a  stewpan,  with  three  of  Tarragon  vinegar, 
let  it  reduce  to  half,  then  add  a  pint  and  a  half  of  brown 


168  REMOVES. 

sauce,  two  spoonfuls  of  tomate  sauce  (No.  87),  a  pint  of 
consomme  (No.  134),  and  half  a  tablespoonfiil  of  sugar, 
let  it  boil  quickly  twenty  minutes,  skim  well,  and  reduce 
until  it  adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  then  have 
ready  a  lemon,  peeled,  sliced,  blanched  in  boiling  water, 
and  drained  on  a  hair  sieve,  which  throw  in  the  sauce, 
^  pour  it  round  the  beef,  fill  one  of  the  croustades  with 
stoned  French  olives,  and  the  other  with  Indian  pickle 
made  hot  in  a  little  demi-glaoe  (No.  9) ;  serve  immediately. 

No.  424.  Fillet  of  Beef  a  la  Napolitaine. 

Prepare  and  dress  the  fillet  as  directed  (No.  417),  dress  it 
plain  on  a  dish  and  have  ready  prepared  the  following  sauce  : 
cut  in  thin  slices  two  onions,  half  a  carrot,  one  turnip,  half  a 
head  of  celery,  two  bay-leaves,  a  sprig  of  thyme,  a  bunch 
of  parsley,  three  cloves,  one  blade  of  mace,  and  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  lean  ham ;  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  two 
ounces  of  butter,  stir  it  over  a  brisk  fire  till  getting  rather 
brown  at  the  bottom,  then  add  four  tablespoonfuls  of  tarra- 
gon vinegar,  let  it  reduce  to  half,  then  add  a  quart  of  brown 
sauce  (No.  1)  and  a  pint  of  consomme  (No.  134),  stir  it 
until  boiling,  then  place  it  at  the  comer  of  the  stove  to 
simmer  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  skim  it,  then  add  a  table- 
spoonfiil of  chopped  mushrooms,  a  little  grated  horseradish, 
and  three  tablespoonfuls  of  currant  jelly;  boil  it  quickly 
five  minutes,  and  pass  it  through  a  tanunie  into  a  clean 
stewpan,  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  Smyrna  raisins  well 
washed  and  soaked,  pour  the  sauce  over  the  beef,  garnish 
with  scraped  horseradish  and  hard-boiled  eggs  cut  in  quar- 
ters lengthwise  and  laid  near  the  rim  of  the  dish. 

No.  425.  Fillet  of  Beef  a  la  Milanaiae. 

Prepare  and  lard  the  fillet  as  before,  then  make  a  stiffish 
paste  of  flour  and  water,  roll  it  about  half  an  indi  in  thick- 
ness and  fold  the  fillet  in  it,  fold  it  again  in  three  sheets  of 


RBH0YB8.  169 

paper,  tie  it  up  at  both  ends,  run  a  lark  spit  through  it, 
and  just  as  you  are  going  to  put  it  down  to  roast  open  the 
pastet»  ])our  in  three  glasses  of  Madeira  wine,  close  the  paste 
well,  tie  it  up  securely,  roast  it  two  hours,  take  it  up  and 
remove  from  the  paste,  glaze  it,  brown  lightly  with  the 
salamander,  dish  it  plain,  and  have  ready  the  following 
sauce :  cut  half  a  pound  of  blanched  maccaroni  into  pieces 
an  inch  long,  likewise  two  ounces  of  very  red  cooked  tongue, 
six  large  blanched  mushrooms,  and  four  middling-sized 
French  truffles,  put  twenty  spoonfuls  of  white  sauce  (No.  7) 
in  a  stewpan,  stir  it  over  the  fire  five  minutes,  season  with 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  small  quantity  of  cayenne,  and 
ahttle  sugar,  add  all  the  other  ingredients,  with  half  a 
pound  of  grated  Parmesan,  stir  the  whole  over  the  fire  to 
get  hot,  but  do  not  break  the  pieces ;  moisten  with  a  little 
cream,  pour  the  sauce  in  the  dish,  lay  the  fillet  upon  it, 
glaze  and  serve. 

No.  426.  Fillet  of  Beef  a  la  JBohemienne. 

Trim  and  lard  a  fillet  as  directed,  cut  in  thin  slices  six 
onions,  two  carrots,  three  turnips,  three  heads  of  celery, 
and  a  leek ;  put  them  into  a  dish  large  enough  to  hold  the 
fillet,  then  put  a  quart  of  vinegar  into  a  stewpan,  with  a 
pint  of  broth ;  when  it  boils  put  in  a  few  peppercorns,  nine 
cloves,  two  blades  of  mace,  four  bay-leaves,  a  sprig  of 
thyme  and  sweet  maijoram,  a  small  bunch  of  parsley,  half 
a  pound  of  brown  sugar,  and  a  little  salt,  let  it  boil  twenty 
minutes  and  pour  it  over  the  vegetables ;  when  it  gets  cold 
lay  in  the  fillet  of  beef,  covering  it  over  with  the  vegetables, 
let  it  remain  in  this  pickle  six  days,  turning  it  every  day ; 
when  ready  to  cook  roast  it  in  paste  as  in  the  previous 
article,  brown  it  with  the  salamander,  serve  it  in  the  middle 
of  the  dish,  make  a  low  border  of  mashed  potatoes  round 
it,  have  ready  potatoes  fried  (and  cut  in  slices  in  the  shape 


170  REMOVES. 

of  cotelettes)  dish  them  upon  the  border  of  mashed  po- 
tatoes round  the  beef,  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  put 
a  quart  of  poivrade  sauce  (No.  32)  in  a  stewpan,  when  1 

it  boils  add  twenty  French  olives  (stoned),  twenty  small 
pickled  onions,  and  twenty  pickled  mushrooms  ;  pour  the  , 

sauce  round  the  beef  but  not  over  the  potatoes ;  an  ounce  - 
of  anchovy  butter  may  be  added  to  the  sauce  if  approved  of. 
You  can  also  braise  the  fillet  in  a  baking  dish  in  the  oven 
with  the  marinade  it  is  pickled  in. 

No.  427.  Fillet  of  Beef  a  la  Bomaine. 

Trim  your  fillet  and  lard  it  through  the  thick  part 
with  large  pieces  of  cooked  tongue  and  fat  bacon,  twelve 
pieces  of  each,  tie  it  up  with  a  piece  of  string,  put  half  a 
pound  of  butter  in  a  large  stewpan,  and  lay  in  the  beef 
with  a  pound  of  bacon  cut  in  slices,  two  onions,  two  bay- 
leaves,  two  cloves,  and  ten  peppercorns ;  place  it  on  a  sharp 
fire,  when  getting  a  little  brown  and  forming  a  glaze,  put 
in  six  glasses  of  sherry  and  a  pint  of  consomme,  (No.  134), 
set  it  over  a  very  slow  fire  for  two  hours,  moving  it  round 
with  a  wooden  spoon  occasionally;  have  ready  blanched 
one  pound  of  the  best  small  maccaroni  (No.  136) ;  put  it 
in  a  stewpan,  after  it  is  well  drained  from  the  water  take 
up  the  beef,  skim  the  fat  off  the  gravy  it  is  cooked  with, 
and  pass  it  through  a  sieve  upon  the  maccaroni,  add  six 
tablespoonfuls  of  tomata  sauce,  and  place  it  over  the  fire ; 
when  it  simmers  add  half  a  pound  of  grated  Parmesan  and 
half  a  pound  of  grated  Gruyer  cheese,  move  it  round  quickly, 
(it  must  not  be  too  Uquid,  so  if  too  much  gravy  from  the 
beef  reserve  some  of  it ;)  season  vdth  a  little  cayenne  pepper, 
salt,  and  sugar,  put  a  layer  of  maccaroni  upon  your  dish, 
then  a  layer  of  grated  cheese,  then  the  remainder  of  the 
maccaroni,  egg  and  bread-crumb  the  top,  sprinkle  more 
grated  cheese  over,  brown  it  vdth  the  salamander,  lay  the 


RSMOVXS.  171 

fillet  on  the  top,  glaze,  and  serve  very  hot.     Should  any 
gravy  remain  pour  it  round. 

No.  428.  Stewed  rump  of  Beef  a  la  Flamatule. 

Choose  a  romp  of  beef  from  twenty-five  to  thirty  pounds, 

in  weight,  the  meat  dark  and  well  covered  with  fat,  bone 

and  lard  it  slantwise  through  and  through  with  very  large 

lardons  of  fat  bacon  six  inches  long,  chop  up  the  bone, 

which,  put  into  a  large  stewpan,  with  five  or  six  pounds  of 

the  trimmings  of  any  other  meat,  one  pound  of  lean  ham, 

three  onions,  two  turnips,  one  carrot,  one  head  of  celery, 

one  leek,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay-leaves,  eight 

peppercorns,  and  a  blade  of  mace :  put  a  pint  of  water  in 

the  stewpan,  cover  and  stand  it  over  a  brisk  fire,  stirring 

it  occasionally  till  the  bottom  is  covered  with  glaze,  then 

lay  in  the  beef,  fill  the  stewpan  with  water,  skim  when 

boiling,  and  let  it  simmer  on  the  comer  of  the  fire  for 

six  hours ;   to  try  when  it  is  done  run  a  trussing-needle 

into  it,  if  it  goes  in  easy  it  is  done ;  have  ready  prepared 

eighteen  middling-sized   onions,   butter  a  sante-pan,  put 

half  an  ounce  of  powdered  sugar  in  it,  cut  a  piece  of  the 

top  and  bottom   of  each  onion,    blanch  them  in  boiling 

water  ten  minutes,  drain  well,  stand  them  in  the  saute- 

pan,    cover  with  stock,   place  them  over  the  fire,   stew 

till  tender  and  the  stock  has  become  a  thin  glaze,  have 

ready  eighteen  pieces  of  carrots,  and  eighteen  ttunips  cut 

in  the  form  of  small  pears,  which  dress  in  the  same  way 

as  the  onions,  lay  the  rump  of  beef  on  your  dish,  and 

arrange  the  onions  and  vegetables  with  taste  around  it, 

using  for  variety  any  green  vegetables  that  may  happen  to 

be  in  season  with  them ;  for  the  sauce  put  a  quart  of  brown 

sauce  in  a  stewpan,  with  the  glaze  from  the  onions  and 

vegetables,  and  half  a  pint  of  good  stock ;  season  with  a 

little  pepper  and  salt  if  required,  reduce  a  quarter  of  an 


1 72  RBMOVBS. 

hour,  or  till  it  becomes  rather  thick,  pour  the  sauce  over 
the  vegetables,  glaze  the  top  of  the  beef,  brown  it  lightly 
in  the  oven,  or  with  the  salamander,  and  serve.  To  carve, 
cut  it  in  thin  shces  slantingly  through  the  thickest  end,  where 
there  ia  most  fat ;  if  underdone  it  is  uneatable. 

No.  429.  Stewed  Rump  of  Beef  tmx  Oignons  glace^. 

Stew  the  beef  as  directed  in  the  last,  Ukewise  thirty-sLx 
onions,  stewed  in  the  same  way  as  there  directed ;  make  a 
border  of  mashed  potatoes  round  the  dish,  place  the  beef  in 
the  centre,  and  dress  the  onions  round  upon  the  potato ; 
place  a  fine  Brussels  sprout  on  the  top  of  each  onion 
(or  a  Uttle  sprue  grass  or  green  peas  if  in  season),  then  put 
a  quart  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1),  in  a  stewpan,  with  four 
spoonfuls  of  tomata  sauce  and  the  glaze  the  onions  were 
cooked  in ;  boil  well  five  minutes,  keeping  it  stirred  and 
well  skimmed,  pour  over  the  onions,  glaze  the  beef,  brown 
it  with  the  salamander,  and  serve.  You  may  put  a  very 
white  caulifiower  at  each  end  of  the  dish,  if  you  have  any. 
In  making  the  border  of  mashed  potatoes  on  your  dish,  be 
sure  and  leave  sufficient  room  for  the  beef,  as  you  can  (and 
it  is  the  best  way)  dress  the  onions  and  garniture  on  it 
first,  and  not  place  the  beef  on  till  ready  to  serve ;  for  the 
fat  running  from  the  beef  it  would  spoil  the  appearance 
of  the  sauce  if  it  remained  long  on  the  dish  before  serving. 

No.  430.  Stewed  Rump  of  Beef  a  la  Voltaire. 

Dress  the  beef  as  before,  then  blanch  two  white  winter 
cabbages  (savoys)  in  salt  and  water  ten  minutes ;  take  them 
out,  and  lay  them  on  a  sieve  to  drain ;  then  make  a  mier- 
poix  of  two  onions,  half  a  carrot,  one  turnip,  one  head  oi 
celery,  one  leek,  a  little  parsley,  thjrme,  one  bay-leaf,  and 
half  a  pound  of  lean  ham,  all  cut  up  very  small;  put 
them  into  a  stewpan  with  two  ounces  of  butter  fry  five 


REMOVES.  173 

minutes,  keeping  them  stirred ;  then  squeeze  the  cabbage 
quite  dry,  lay  it  in  the  stewpan  with  the  vegetables  and  a 
quart  of  veal  stock,  place  it  over  a  slow  fire  to  stew  for  one 
hour,  or  tiQ  quite  tender,  take  out  the  cabbage  (save  the 
stock),  lay  it  on  a  cloth,  turn  the  end  of  the  cloth  over  it, 
squeeze  it  rather  dry,  and  make  a  long  roll  of  it  (about  the 
size  roimd  of  half-a-crown  piece),  cut  it  in  pieces  about  an 
inch  in  length,  and  dress  them  on  the  dish  round  the  beef ; 
a  small  onion  dressed  as  before  may  be  placed  on  the  top  of 
each  piece  with  a  nice  Brussels  sprout  between ;  and  sur- 
round the  whole  with  small  fried  sausages ;  for  sauce,  skim  off 
the  fat  from  the  broth  the  cabbage  was  stewed  in ;  put  half 
a  pint  .of  it  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  quart  of  brown  sauce 
(No.  1),  place  it  on  the  fire,  and  reduce  it  to  one-half;  add 
a  quarter  of  a  teaspoonfiil  of  sugar,  and  pour  the  sauce  over 
the  cabbage,  glaze  and  salamander  the  beef,  and  serve ;  this 
remove  is  very  good,  and  a  similar  dish  is  reputed  to  have 
been  a  great  favourite  of  the  celebrated  man  from  whom  I 
have  named  it. 

No.  431.  Stewed  Bump  of  Beef  a  la  Bortuffaise. 

Stew  the  beef  as  before,  peel  eight  Portugal  onions,  boil 
them  in  a  gallon  of  water  till  nearly  tender,  take  them  out 
and  drain  them ;  butter  a  convenient  sized  stewpan,  put  in 
the  onions  with  two  ounces  of  sugar,  just  cover  them  with 
good  veal  stock,  and  stew  them  imtil  the  stock  is  reduced 
to  a  thinnish  glaze,  and  adheres  to  them ;  place  the  beef  on 
the  dish,  and  dress  the  onions  round  it  at  equal  distances 
apart,  and  between  each  onion  place  a  small  but  nice  white 
cauliflower;  for  the  sauce,  add  a  quart  of  brown  sauce,  with 
the  glaze  from  the  onions ;  reduce  it  to  half  over  the  fire, 
pass  it  through  a  tanmiie  into  a  clean  stewpan,  let  it  boil^ 
throw  in  forty  French  olives  ready  stoned,  pour  the  sauce 
over  the  vegetable,  glaze  the  beef,  salamander,  and  serve. 


174     .  BBMOyBS. 

No.  482.  Stewed  Eumj)  of  Beef  a  la  Joan  d'Jre. 

Stew  the  beef  as  before,  and  proceed  the  same  as  for 
Fillet  of  beef  a  la  Joan  d'Arc  (No.  418). 

433.  Stewed  Bump  of  Beef  a  la  Beyrout 

Stew  the  beef  as  before,  and  proceed  as  for  Filet  dc 
boBuf  a  la  Beyrout  (No.  419). 

No.  434.  Stewed  Bump  of  Beef  a  la  Macedoine  de  legumes. 

Stew  the  rump  as  before,  then  peel  forty  young  carrots^ 
the  same  number  of  young  turnips ;  tie  up  ten  small  bunches 
of  green  spring  onions,  butter  a  saute-pan,  place  them  in  it 
with  a  tablespoonfiil  of  sugar  (leave  the  stalks  of  the  onions 
about  an  inch  and  a  half  in  length),  half  cover  them  with 
some  good  stock,  and  let  them  simmer  until  quite  tender ; 
cook  the  turnips  and  carrots  in  the  same  manner,  but  sepa* 
rate,  make  a  low  border  of  mashed  potatoes  round  the  dish, 
leaving  room  for  the  beef  in  the  centre ;  dress  the  carrots, 
onions,  and  turnips  on  the  potatoes  tastefully,  and  variegate 
them  with  peas,  cauliflowers,  asparagus,  French  beans,  and 
stewed  cucumbers  (No.  1064);  glaze  and  salamander  the 
beef  on  a  separate  dish,  place  it  in  the  middle  of  the  vege- 
tables, and  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  put  a  quart  of 
brown  sauce  in  a  stewpan,  with  the  stocks  the  vegetables 
were  cooked  in,  reduce  until  it  becomes  thickish,  pour 
over  the  vegetables,  and  serve. 

No.  435.  Stewed  Bump  of  Beef  sauce  piquante. 

Prepare  and  stew  the  rump  of  beef  as  before,  and  prepare 
the  following  sauce:  put  two  tablespoonfdls  of  chopped 
onions  in  a  stewpan,  with  six  do.  of  common  vinegar,  and 
half  an  ounce  of  glaze ;  let  it  reduce  to  half,  then  add  a 
quart  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1),  and  half  a  pint  of  oonsonmiee 
(No.  134) ;  let  it  simmer  half  an  hour,  skim,  and  season 


REMOVES.  175 

with  a  little  cayenne  pepper,  salt,  sugar,  a  tablespoonful  of 
chopped  mushrooms,  one  do.  of  chopped  gherkins,  and  one 
do.  of  sliced  gherkins ;  glaze  and  salamander  the  beef,  pour 
the  sauce  round,  and  serve. 

No.  436.  Stewed  Bump  of  Beef  sauce  tomate. 

Prepare  and  stew  the  beef  as  before,  glaze  and  salaman- 
der, pour  some  tomata  sauce  (No.  37)  round,  and  serve. 
K  you  should  have  part  of  a  rump  of  beef  left  from  a  pre- 
vious dinner  you  can  cut  it  in  slices  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick,  and  warm  them  in  a  Uttle  consommee  in  a  saute-pan ; 
serve  with  any  of  the  foregoing  sauces,  but  especially  the 
two  last ;  the  best  way  to  warm  them  is  to  glaze  them  well 
and  put  them  in  a  moderate  oven  about  twenty  minutes ;  do 
not  let  them  boil,  or  they  would  eat  very  hard. 

No.  437.  Stewed  Sirloin  of  Beef 

The  sirloin,  after  having  been  deprived  of  its  fillet,  is  of 
no  use  for  roasting,  but  is  equally  as  good  as  the  rump 
when  stewed ;  bone  it  carefully  and  lard  the  thick  part  with 
&t  bacon,  like  the  rump ;  roll  it  up,  and  tie  it  well  with 
string,  to  keep  its  shape ;  stew  it  in  the  same  manner  as 
the  rump,  trim  it  at  each  end,  wipe  off  the  greasy  fat 
lightly  from  the  top  with  a  clean  cloth,  glaze  it  Ughtly,  and 
put  it  in  the  oven  until  it  has  obtained  a  light  gold  colour ; 
s^^e  with  any  of  the  sauces  or  garnitures  used  for  stewed 
rumps  of  beef. 

No.  438.  Stewed  Sirloin  of  Beef  a  la  Printantere. 

Prepare  and  stew  a  sirloin  as  described,  glaze  and  sala- 
mander it,  place  a  low  border  of  mashed  potatoes  round  the 
dish,  and  at  each  end  put  a  croustade  of  bread,  cut  in  the 
shape  of  flat  vases ;  then  have  ready  boiled  and  cut  three 
inches  in  length,  fifty  fine  heads  of  asparagus ;  dish  them 


176  REMOVES. 

in^  crown  upon  the  potatoes ;  then  have  a  quart  of  very 
young  peas,  nicely  boiled ;  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  a 
teaspoonful  of  sugar,  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  and  four  pats 
of  butter ;  toss  them  over  the  fire  till  the  butter  is  melted  ; 
put  them  in  the  croustade  at  each  end  of  the  dish,  place  the 
beef  in  the  centre,  pour  a  sauce  aux  concombres  (No.  103) 
round  the  beef  and  serve.  (For  the  sauce  aux  concombres^ 
see  No.  103). 

No.  439.  Bibs  of  Beef  a  la  Jean  Bart 

Take  four  ribs  of  beef,  and  saw  the  rib  bones  asunder  in 
the  middle ;  pass  your  knife  under,  and  detach  them  from 
the  flap ;  then  take  the  chine  bones  from  the  fleshy  part, 
sawing  them  off"  the  ribs  so  as  to  leave  but  about  four  inches 
of  the  flat  rib  bones  underneath ;  then  lard  the  thick  part 
through  and  through  with  fat  bacon  like  the  sirloin,  fold 
the  flap  over  so  as  to  form  a  nice  square  piece,  tie  it  with 
string  to  keep  its  shape,  and  roast  three  hours  in  vegetables, 
in  the  same  manner  as  described  for  fillet  of  beef;  when 
done,  take  off  the  string,  glaze  and  salamander,  place  it  on 
your  dish,  with  a  square  croustade  of  bread,  with  a  cannon 
and  anchor  also  cut  from  bread  upon  it,  at  the  head  of  the 
dish,  and  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  chop  very  fine 
ten  eschalots,  ten  fresh  mushrooms,  and  half  a  pound  of 
lean  ham,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  four  glasses  of 
sherry  and  two  of  Chili  vinegar,  add  a  bunch  of  parsley, 
two  bay-leaves,  the  rind  of  half  a  lemon,  and  four  cloves ; 
put  them  into  the  stewpan,  let  all  simmer  ten  minutes, 
then  add  fifteen  spoonfuls  of  tomata  sauce  (No.  37),  twenty 
of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  and  ten  do.  of  oonsommee ;  reduce 
the  sauce  until  rather  thick,  but  it  must  be  transparent, 
season  with  a  httle  cayenne  pepper,  a  teaspoonfrd  of  sugar, 
and  a  little  salt,  if  required ;  pass  it  through  a  tammie  into 
another  stewpan,  boU  it  up,  and  pour  round  the  beef. 


REMOTES.  177 

No.  440.  Ox  Tongues 

May  be  served  plain  boiled;  if  a  good-sized  tongue, 
allow  it  from  three  to  four  hours  to  boil;  put  it  in  cold 
water,  take  off  the  skin,  trim  off  a  great  part  of  the  root, 
pat  it  in  hot  water  again  a  short  time,  dress  it  on  a  dish 
garnished  with  vegetables  as  for  stewed  rump  of  beef  a  la 
Flamande  (No.  428),  or  served  with  spinach  or  a  Milanaise 
sauce  (see  Fillet  of  Beef  a  la  Milanaise) ;  but  when  used  as 
a  remove,  tb^  are  mostly  served  as  part  of  the  gamitiue  of 
anoth^  dish. 

No.  441.  Loin  of  Veal  a  la  Cambaceres. 

Procure  a  nice  white  loin  of  veal,  saw  off  the  chump,  cut 
off  the  thick  skin  from  the  thick  part,  then  cut  some  lardon 
of  fsEd^  bacon  and  lean  raw  ham,  a  quarter  of  an  inch  square 
and  three  inches  long,  with  which  lard  the  thickest  end  on 
the  top ;  skewer  the  flap  underneath,  butter  the  bottom  of 
a  lai^e  flat  stewpan,  cover  with  thin  slices  of  fat  bacon,  and 
lay  the  veal  on  the  top  of  them,  the  larded  side  uppermost ; 
add  two  onions  with  four  cloves  stuck  in  them,  one  carrot, 
one  tomip,  a  bunch  of  parsl^,  thyme  and  bay-leaves  (tied 
together),  half  a  pint  of  bucellas  wine,  and  a  quart  of  stock ; 
}dace  it  over  a  sharp  fire  a  quarter  of  an  hour  to  boil,  skim 
and  j^ce  it  in  a  moderate  oven  for  two  hours  (according 
to  the  size),  basting  it  every  quarter  of  an  hour  with  the 
stock;  when  done  glaze  and  salamander  the  larded  part, 
hut  put  the  cover  of  the  stewpan  over  the  other  part  (whilst 
salamandering  it)  •  as  it  must  be  kept  quite  white ;  make  a 
low  border  of  mashed  potatoes  on  the  dish  you  intend 
serving  it  on,  and  have  ready  the  follovnng  garniture :  you 
have  previously  boiled  a  Russian  ox-tongue ;  take  off  the 
skins,  and  cut  it  in  escalopes  the  size  of  five-shilling  pieces ; 
then  cut  up  six  very  large  French  truflSes,  and  stew  two 

12 


178  REMOVES. 

cucumbers ;  cut  in  escalopes  of  the  same  size  as  the  tongue, 
make  them  hot  in  separate  stewpans,  in  a  little  stock,  and 
dress  them  alternately  on  the  border  of  mashed  potatoes  all 
round  the  dish ;  place  the  veal  in  the  centre,  and  have  ready 
the  following  sauce:  put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped 
mushrooms  in  a  stewpan  with  a  glass  of  Madeira  wine,  two 
quarts  of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  and  a  pint  of  boiling  milk ; 
reduce  it  over  the  fire  till  it  becomes  rather  thick ;  pass  it 
through  a  tammie  into  another  stewpan,  season  with  a  little 
sugar,  salt,  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon ;  poiur  a  little  over 
each  piece  of  truffle  and  cucumber,  and  the  rest  in  the  dish ; 
glaze  the  pieces  of  tongue  carefully,  and  serve. 

No.  442.  Loin  of  Veal  a  la  Macedmne  de  legumcB. 

Prepare  and  braise  the  veal  as  before,  garnish  and  sauce 
as  for  stewed  rump  of  beef  a  la  Macedoine  de  legumes 
(No.  434). 

No.  448.  Loin  of  Veal  a  la  Puree  de  Celeri. 

Prepare  and  braise  the  veal  as  before,  without  larding 
it;  make  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes  on  the  dish,  then 
have  twenty  good  heads  of  celery,  cut  off  the  tops  within 
two  inches  of  the  bottom,  make  a  puree  of  celery  (No.  117) 
with  the  tops,  and  stew  the  bottoms  in  a  quart  of  white 
stock,  with  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  sugar,  until  tender ; 
dress  them  upright  upon  the  border  of  potatoes,  place  the 
veal  in  the  centre,  and  pour  the  puree  of  celery  round ;  serve 
very  hot ;  the  sauce  must  be  rather  thinner  than  usual. 

No.  444.  Loin  of  Veal  a  la  Sfrasbourffienne. 

Roast  a  loin  of  veal  in  vegetables  in  the  maimer  as  de- 
scribed for  Fillets  of  Beef  (No.  417),  allowing  it  longer  time 
according  to  the  size ;  dress  it  on  the  dish  with  a  border  of 
mashed  potatoes  round,  then  have  ready  thirty  pieces  of 


REMOVES.  179 

Sirasburg  bacon^  cut  in  the  shape  and  size  of  cutlets; 
dress  them  on  the  potatoes  round  the  veal,  pour  a  sauce 
poivrade  (No.  32)  into  the  dish,  but  not  over  the  bacon ; 
glaase  the  bacon,  and  serve.  The  Strasburg  bacon  being 
very  dry,  requires  soaking  at  least  twenty-four  hours ;  it 
must  be  allowed  to  simmer  until  very  tender ;  place  it  be- 
tween two  dishes,  with  a  weight  upon  it,  and  when  cold 
cut  it  into  the  shapes  required,  and  make  them  hot  in  good 
white  stock.  Good  streaky  bacon  may  be  used  instead  of 
the  Strasburg,  if  it  is  difficult  to  obtain. 

No.  445.  Fillet  of  Veal  a  la  Princiere. 

Procure  a  good  leg  of  veal,  cut  off  the  knuckle  just  above 
the  joint,  then  cut  out  the  bone  from  the  middle  of  the 
Met;  have  ready  two  pounds  of  forcemeat  (No.  120),  cut 
half  a  pound  of  cooked  ham  and  twenty  mushrooms  into 
very  small  dice,  mix  them  with  the  forcemeat ;  season  rather 
high  with  cayenne  pepper,  salt,  and  nutmeg,  put  the  force- 
meat in  the  place  the  bone  was  taken  from,  pull  the  udder 
of  the  fillet  round,  and  skewer  it  up,  but  not  too  tight ;  tie 
it  up  with  string,  put  it  on  a  spit,  and  roast  it  four  hours  in 
vegetables,  in  the  same  manner  as  described  for  fillets  of 
beef ;  when  done  take  it  from  the  paper  and  vegetables,  cut 
off  the  string,  and  run  three  or  four  silver  skewers  through 
it  in  the  place  di  those  you  have  taken  out ;  the  fillet  must 
be  quite  white;  place  it  on  the  dish,  make  a  border  of 
mashed  potatoes  round  it,  upon  which  dress  alternately  a 
piece  of  tongue  and  a  piece  of  bacon,  each  piece  cut  in  the 
form  of  a  heart,  and  not  more  than  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in 
thickness ;  glaze  the  garniture,  and  have  ready  the  following 
sauce :  put  two  quarts  of  white  sauce  into  a  stewpan,  stir  it 
over  the  fire  until  it  becomes  thick,  then  add  nearly  a  pint 
of  thin  cieam ;  pour  the  sauce  in  the  dish,  but  not  over  the 
garniture,  and  serve  immediately ;  the  first  slice  must  be 
cut  off  the  veal  previous  to  its  going  to  table. 


180  REMOVES. 


No.  446.  FiUet  of  Veal  a  la  VersaiUiejme. 

Cut  your  fillet  as  before,  have  ready  boiled  an  ox-tongue, 
trim  it,  cut  off  the  root  and  about  two  inches  of  the  tip, 
put  it  in  the  middle  of  the  fiUet  from  where  you  have  taken 
the  bone,  and  fill  up  the  cavities  round  the  tongue  with 
some  forcemeat  (No.  120),  skewer  up  the  fillet  and  roast 
it  as  before ;  when  done  lay  it  on  the  dish  with  a  border 
of  mashed  potatoes  round  it,  upon  which  dress  alternately 
a  quenelle  of  veal  and  a  slice  of  stewed  cucumber  (No.  1064), 
then  put  two  quarts  of  white  sauce  in  a  stewpan,  with  a 
pmt  of  broth,  reduce  it,  and  add  nearly  half  a  pint  of 
cream,  pour  the  sauce  over  the  garniture,  and  sprinkle  a 
Uttle  chopped  tarragon  and  chervil  over  it ;  serve  as  soon  as 
possible  aft^  you  have  poured  the  sauce  over,  which  requires 
to  be  seasoned  rather  high. 

No.  447.  Fillet  of  Veal  a  la  Palestine, 

Prepare  and  dress  the  fillet  exactly  as  before,  then  ped 
fifty  Jerusalem  artichokes,  and  turn  them  in  the  shape  of 
smaQ  pears ;  boil  them  nicely  in  salt  and  water,  lay  your 
fillet  on  a  dish  with  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes  round  it, 
upon  which  dress  the  artichokes,  the  round  part  upper- 
most, between  each  artichoke  place  a  fine  Brussels  sprout ; 
sauce  the  same  as  the  last  and  serve. 

No.  448.  FiUet  of  Veal  a  la  Jardiniere, 

Prepare  the  fillet  as  before,  but  place  a  piece  of  boiled 
bacon  in  the  centre  instead  of  the  tongue,,  roast  it  in  vege- 
tables as  before,  pour  a  sauce  jardiniere  (No.  100)  upon  a 
dish,  sprinkle  a  pint  of  young  green  peas  plain  boiled  upon 
it,  dress  a  caxdiflower  at  each  end  and  another  on  each  side^ 
place  the  fillet  in  the  middle  upon  the  sauce  and  serve. 


REMOVES.  181 

No.  449.  mUet  of  Veal  a  la  Potcyere. 

Prepare  the  fiflet  as  before,  then  lard  it  through  and 
through  with  pieces  of  fat  bacon  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
square  and  six  inches  long,  skewer  it  up  tight,  put  it  on  a 
spit  and  roast  it  as  before,  but  twenty  minutes  before  it  is 
done  take  it  out  of  the  vegetables  but  not  off  the  spit,  and 
let  it  remain  before  the  fire  to  brown ;  have  ready  prepared 
twenty  middle-sized  onions,  and  as  many  pieces  of  carrots 
turned  in  the  form  of  pears,  stew  them  as  directed  in 
stewed  rump  of  beef  a  la  Flamande  (No.  428),  place  the 
fillet  in  the  dish,  make  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes  round 
it,  upon  which  dress  the  onions  and  carrots,  with  a  cauli- 
flower at  each  end ;  have  ready  the  folbwing  sauce :  put 
two  quarts  of  brown  sauce  in  a  stewpan,  with  half  a  pint  of 
consomme  and  half  the  stock  the  carrots  and  onions  were 
cooked  in,  boil  it  till  it  becomes  like  a  thin  glaze,  pour  over 
the  vegetables,  sprinkle  about  a  pint  of  young  peas  nicely 
boiled  over  them  if  in  season,  and  serve. 

No.  450.  JPiUet  of  Veal  auw  petits  pois. 

Prepare  and  roast  the  fillet  exactly  as  the  preceding, 
then  put  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (No.  7)  in  a  stewpan,  let  it 
boil ;  have  ready  a  quart  of  young  peas  nicely  boiled,  put 
them  into  the  stewpan,  with  the  white  sauce,  a  little  salt, 
and  half  an  ounce  of  pounded  sugar  let  it  boil  up,  then  add 
two  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  toss  them  together  over  the 
fire,  pour  them  out  into  the  dish,  lay  the  fillet  over,  and 
serve  as  soon  as  possible. 

No.  461.  Neck  of  Veal  a  la  puree  de  celeri. 

Take  the  best  end  of  a  neck  of  veal  with  about  seven 
bones  in  it,  cut  off  the  chine  bones  to  give  it  a  nice  square 
appearance,  and  roast  it  in  vegetables  as  the  fillets,  but  of 


182  REMOVlSS. 

course  it  will  not  require  so  long ;  when  done,  dress  it  on  a 
dish  with  a  piece  of  boiled  bacon  about  three  inches  broad 
at  each  end,  make  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes  round,  upon 
which  dress  the  bottoms  of  fifteen  heads  of  stewed  celery 
(No.  117),  and  sauce  with  a  puree  of  celery  made  from  the 
tops,  as  there  directed ;  serve  very  hot,  but  glaze  the  veal 
and  bacon  the  last  thing  before  going  to  table. 

No.  452.  Neck  of  Veal  a  la  Bouennaise. 

Prepare  a  neck  of  veal,  leaving  it  as  long  as  possible, 
take  off  the  skin  and  the  chine  bones,  lard  and  braise  it  as 
for  loin  of  veal  a  la  Cambaceres  (No.  441) ;  when  done, 
put  three  tablespoonfuls  of  oil  into  a  stewpan,  vnth  two  of 
chopped  eschalots,  two  of  chopped  raw  mushrooms,  and 
two  of  chopped  parsley,  pass  them  ten  minutes  over  the  fire, 
then  pour  off  the  greater  part  of  the  oil,  add  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  flour,  mix  it  well,  and  put  in  eighteen  tablespoonfuls 
of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  stir  it  over  the  fire  till  it  becomes 
rather  thick,  then  add  a  httle  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
sugar,  and  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  mix  all  well  together,  and 
spread  it  over  the  larded  part  of  the  veal,  egg  and  bread- 
crumb it,  brown  it  Ughtly  v^ith  the  salamander,  and  serve  a 
jus  d'echalotte  sauce  (No.  16)  with  mushrooms  in  it,  pour 
it  in  the  diah  roimd  the  veal. 

No.  463.  Neck  of  Veal  a  la  MUanaise. 

Braise  the  veal  precisely  as  (No.  441),  prepare  a  Mila- 
naise  sauce  (see  fillet  of  beef  a  la  Milanaise,  No.  425) 
which  pour  into  the  dish  and  dress  the  veal  upon  it.  • 

No.  454.  Neck  of  Veal  a  la  Bruxellaise. 

Dress  the  veal  the  same  as  for  neck  of  veal  a  la  puree  de 
celeri  (No.  451),  then  have  about  one  hundred  Brussels 
sprouts,  nicely  boiled,  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  two 


REMOVES.  183 

ounces  of  butter^  a  little  pepper,  salt,  sugar,  and  the  juice  of 
half  a  good  lemon,  stir  them  gently  over  the  fire  but  do  not 
break  the  sprouts,  pour  them  upon  your  dish,  dress  the 
veal  upon  them  with  a  piece  of  bacon  at  each  end,  glaze 
them,  pour  half  a  pint  of  thin  white  sauce  (No.  7)  round 
over  the  Brussels  sprouts  and  serve. 

No.  455.  Breast  of  Veal, 

I  do  not  consider  that  a  breast  of  veal  is  good  without 
the  tendron  (which  is  usually  cut  out  and  braised  for  en- 
trees), yet  it  would  be  impossible  to  roast  it  with  the  breast, 
for  it  would  not  be  a  quarter  done  by  the  time  the  other 
was ;  I  therefore  recommend  the  foUowing  new  method : 
cut  out  the  tendron,  braise  it  as  described  (No.  685),  let  it 
get  cold,  take  the  other  bones  out  of  the  breast,  lay  some 
forcemeat  of  veal  (No.  120)  down  the  centre,  upon  which 
place  the  tendron,  roll  it  up,  sew  it  with  stnng  and  your 
trussing-needle,  oil  some  paper,  tie  the  veal  up  in  it,  and 
roast  it  two  hours,  place  a  sauce  Soubise  (No.  47) ;  or  jar- 
diniere (No.  100)  on  the  dish ;  take  the  veal  from  the  paper 
and  lay  it  upon  the  sauce,  or  if  preferred  you  may  serve 
with  a  plain  veal  s^uce  made  thus  -.  put  ten  spoonfuls  of 
brown  sauce,  and  the  same  quantity  of  melted  butter  into  a 
stewpan,  place  it  on  the  fire,  let  it  boil  ten  minutes,  skim  it, 
add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  Harvey  sauce,  and  it  is  ready  to 
serve. 

No.  456.  Breast  of  Veal  aux poisfins  a  VAnglaise. 

Dress  the  veal  exactly  as  before,  have  ready  boiled  a 
a  quart  of  fresh  young  peas,  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with 
eight  spoonfuls  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1),  a  teaspoonful  of 
powdered  sugar,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter,  and 
a  small  bunch  of  parsley,  boil  them  ten  minutes,  season 
with  a  little  salt  if  required,  pom*  them  into  your  dish,  glaze 
the  veal  and  serve  it  upon  them. 


184  RRMOVKS. 

No.  457.  Breast  of  Vejl  a  h puree  de  celeri. 

Dress  the  veal  as  before,  and  serve  with  a  puree  of  oeleiy 
(No.  117)  under  it. 

No.  458.  Breast  of  Veal  sauce  tomate. 

Dress  the  veal  as  before  and  serve  with  a  sauce  tomate 
(No.  37)  under  it.  Breasts  of  veal  may  be  stewed  like  the 
necks,  or  roasted  with  vegetables,  but  they  are  best  roasted 
as  before  desoibed. 

No.  459.  Calf  s  Head. 

Procure  a  nice  white  calf's  head  that  has  been  well 
scalded,  saw  it  in  halves,  taking  out  the  tongue  (whole)  and 
the  brains,  make  a  white  stock  as  follows :  put  two  carrots, 
two  turnips,  two  heads  of  celery,  (out  up  small),  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  butter,  six  doves,  four  blades  of  mace,  and  a 
bunch  of  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay-leaves,  pass  it  over  the 
fire  twenty  minutes  in  a  long  brasier  large  enough  to  lay 
the  head  in,  then  add  a  pint  of  water  with  which  when 
boiled  mix  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  flour,  add  a  gdlon  of 
water,  two  lemons  in  slices,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
salt ;  let  it  boil  up,  then  lay  the  head  in,  take  care  that  it  is 
well  covered  or  the  part  exposed  would  become  quite  black, 
when  boiling  set  it  on  the  comer  of  the  stove  to  simmer 
for  two  hours,  or  imtil  it  is  done,  which  you  can  ascertain 
by  pressing  the  cheek  on  the  thickest  part  vnth  your  finger, 
if  it  gives  easily  it  is  done ;  let  it  remain  in  the  broth  until 
ready  to  serve,  take  it  up,  drain  it  on  a  clean  cloth,  break 
off  the  jaw-bone,  lay  it  on  your  dish,  surround  it  with  six 
nice  boiled  potatoes  cut  in  halves,  and  pour  sauce  Holland- 
aise  (No.  66)  over  it,  or  sauce  piquante  (No.  27),  or  sauce 
tomate  (No.  87),  if  preferred. 

To  serve  calf's  head  for  a  remove  for  a  large  dinner, 


RBMOVES.  185 

when  the  head  is  done  cut  off  the  ears,  take  out  all  the 
bone,  and  set  it  on  a  large  dish,  place  another  dish  upon 
it  and  press  it  lightly  with  a  seven  pounds  weight  till  it 
gets  cold,  then  lay  it  out  on  the  table  and  cut  it  into  oval 
pieces  two  inches  wide  and  three  long,  make  a  border  of 
mashed  potatoes,  warm  the  pieces  in  the  stock  it  was  boiled 
in,  drain  them  on  a  cloth,  then  dish  them  alternately  with 
quarters  of  boiled  potatoes  round  the  dish,  trim  the  gristly 
part  of  the  ears,  then  cut  incisions  in  them  longways  with- 
out separating  the  edges,  turn  them  over  and  they  will  form 
a  frill,  placaa  little  of  the  brains  inside  of  each,  and  the  re- 
mainder with  the  tongue  cut  in  halves  in  the  centre,  upon 
which  place  the  ears  at  each  end,  sauce  vdth  HoUandaise  as 
before,  but  if  required  with  other  sauce  the  quarters  of 
potatoes  must  be  omitted. 

No.  460.  Calf  8  Head  au  natureL 

Althou^  calfs  head  is  seldom  if  ever  dressed  this  way 
in  England  it  is  about  the  best  method ;  the  glutinous  sub- 
stance of  the  head  being  so  relishing  with  this  sauce,  all 
French  epicures  patronise  it.  Take  a  small  calfs  head,  lay 
it  upon  its  skuU  on  the  table,  open  the  under  part  without 
cutting  the  tongue,  take  out  the  under  jaw-bones  carefully, 
fold  the  cheeks  under,  tie  it  round  with  string,  boil  it  three 
hours,  (as  described  in  the  last),  when  done  lay  it  upon  a 
doth  to  drain,  untie  the  string,  take  out  the  tongue,  peel  it, 
put  the  point  of  a  knife  in  the  middle  of  the  skull  bone, 
it  will  open  with  faciUty,  take  off  the  two  pieces  of  bone 
that  cover  the  brains,  and  leave  them  exposed,  place  the 
head  upon  a  dish  with  one  half  of  the  tongue  on  each  side, 
(each  person  that  partakes  of  it  should  be  served  with 
tongue  and  brains) ;  serve  the  following  sauce  in  a  boat : 
put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  eschalots,  one  of  chopped 
parsley,  one  of  chopped  tarragon  and  chervil,  a  quarter 


186  REMOVES. 

ditto  of  salt,  a  little  pepper,  six  tablespoonfiils  of  salad  oil, 
and  three  ditto  of  common  vinegar ;  mix  all  well  together 
and  serve ;  each  person  should  stir  the  sauce  previous  to 
helping  themselves  to  it,  for  by  standing  the  oil  will  come 
to  the  top  ;  the  head  requires  to  be  very  hot,  but  the  sauce 
quite  cold. 

No.  461.  Half  a  Calf*  8  Head  a  la  Luxembourg. 

Procure  half  a  calf  s  head,  pass  your  knife  imder  the 
skin  upon  the  top  of  the  skull  and  saw  off  about  two  inches 
of  the  skull  bone,  boil  it  as  described  in  the  last,  when 
done  drain  it  on  a  cloth,  lay  it  in  a  saute-pan,  and  spread 
the  following  forcemeat  over  it:  having  previously  well 
washed  the  brains,  cut  them  in  sUces,  put  two  ounces  of 
butter  in  a  saute-pan,  let  it  melt,  then  lay  in  the  brains, 
sprinkle  a  little  chopped  parsley,  pepper,  salt,  and  the  juice 
of  half  a  lemon ;  put  them  over  a  slow  fire,  turn  them,  and 
when  done  chop  them  fine  and  put  them  in  a  basin,  with 
four  tablespoonfiils  of  bread-crumbs,  one  of  chopped  mush- 
rooms, a  little  more  pepper  and  salt,  a  little  grated  nutmeg, 
and  chopped  lemon  peel ;  mix  altogether,  with  the  yolks  of 
two  eggs ;  after  it  is  spread  wash  it  over  with  eggs,  vnth  a 
paste-brush,  sprinkle  some  bread-crumbs  over  it,  place  it  in 
the  oven  half  an  hour,  salamander  a  light  brown,  place  it 
on  a  dish,  and  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  put  into  a 
stewpan  four  tablespoonfiils  of  tarragon  vinegar,  one  blade 
of  mace,  two  cloves,  one  spoonful  of  scraped  horseradish, 
and  a  glass  of  brandy ;  let  it  boil  five  minutes,  add  three 
pints  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1),  and  one  ditto  of  consomme 
(No.  134) ;  when  it  boils  set  it  at  the  comer  of  the  stove, 
skim  it  well  and  reduce  it  to  two-thirds,  pass  it  through  a 
tammie  into  a  clean  stewpan,  and  add  two  dozen  of  pickled 
mushrooms,  and  two  dozen  very  small  gherkins;  warm 
altogether,  finish  with  an  ounce  of  anchovy  butter,  and 


REMOVES.  137 

half  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  pour  the  sauce  round  the 
head  and  serve ;  you  may  dress  the  whole  head,  cutting  it 
up  as  described  (No.  459),  cover  each  piece  with  the  force- 
meat, dress  them  on  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes,  and  serve 
the  sauce  in  the  centre. 

i 

No.  462.  Tete  de  Veau  en  Tortue. 

Dress  the  head,  and  when  cold  cut  it  iji  oval  pieces,  as 
described  (No.  459),  make  a  small  elevated  casserole  of 
rice  in  the  shape  of  an  oval  vase  (see  No.  626),  which  place 
in  the  centre  of  the  dish,  make  the  pieces  hot  and  dish  them 
on  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes  round  it,  phicing  an  ear  at 
each  end ;  have  ready  the  following  garniture  and  sauce : 
m^LO  a  mierepoix  of  two  onions,  one  turnip,  half  a  carrot,  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  lean  ham,  all  cut  up  in  slices ;  put 
them  into  a  stewpan,  with  two  cloves,  half  a  blade  of  mace, 
a  sprig  of  thyme,  maijoram,  winter  savory,  basil,  a  little 
parsley,  a  bay-leaf,  and  two  ounces  of  butter ;  pass  it  over 
a  fire  till  it  becomes  a  Uttle  brown,  then  add  four  glasses  of 
Madeira,  two  quarts  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1),  half  a  pint  of 
tomata  sauce  (No.  37),  and  half  a  pint  of  broth,  reduce  it 
on  a  quick  fire  twenty  minutes,  skim  it  weU,  pass  it  through 
a  tammie  into  a  clean  stewpan,  boil  it  again  till  it  adheres 
to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  season  with  half  a  saltspoonful  of 
cayenne  pepper,  and  a  Uttle  sugar,  add  twenty  prepared 
cockscombs  (No.  128),  six  French  truffles  sUced,  twenty 
blanched  mushrooms,  and  twenty  small  quenelles  (No.  120) ; 
when  very  hot  lay  the  garniture  in  the  rice  casserole,  and 
pour  the  sauce  over  the  pieces  of  calf's  head ;  an  attelet  with 
a  crawfish,  truffle,  and  large  quenelle  upon  it,  may  be 
stuck  at  each  end  of  the  casserole  of  rice  in  a  slanting  direc- 
tion. 


188  REMOVES. 

No.  468.  Calf  9  Head  a  la  Pottinger. 

Dress  and  cut  a  head  in  pieces  as  before,  make  two 
croustades  of  bread,  one  in  the  shape  of  a  cushion,  and  the 
other  hke  a  scallop-shell,  make  the  pieces  of  head  hot,  and 
dress  them  in  your  dish  on  a  border  of  rice  (prepared  as 
No.  626),  put  the  croustade  in  the  form  of  a  cushion  at  one 
end  of  the  dish,  .and  the  other  elevated  upon  a  piece  of  firied 
bread  at  the  other  end,  in  which  put  the  brains,  at  each 
side  of  the  dish  dress  an  ear  cut  to  form  a  &ill,  with  a 
plover's  egg  in  each ;  have  ready  the  following  sauoe :  put 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  diopped  onions  into  a  stewpan,  with 
six  of  the  vinegar  from  Indian  pickles,  let  it  boil  a  few 
minutes,  then  add  three  pints  of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  and  a 
pint  of  white  stock,  let  it  boil  until  it  adheres  to  the  back  of 
the  spoon,  pass  it  through  a  tammie  into  another  stewpan 
add  twenty  mild  Indian  pickles,  the  same  number  of  small 
gherkins,  and  thirty  cockscombs  (No.  128),  when  hot  pour 
the  sauce  over  the  head,  stick  three  attelets  prepared  as  in 
the  last  in  the  croustade  resembling  a  cushion  very  taste- 
fiilty;  and  serve. 

No.  464.  Calfa  Head  in  currie. 

Prepare  and  dish  the  head  as  in  the  last,  boil  a  pound  of 
rice  (see  No.  129),  and  dish  it  in  a  pyramid  in  the  middle, 
leaving  a  place  at  the  top  to  lay  in  the  brains ;  have  ready 
prepared  the  following  sauce :  put  four  onions,  two  apples 
(cut  in  slices),  a  sprig  of  thyme,  a  htlle  parsley,  a  blade  of 
mace,  and  six  cloves  into  a  stewpan,  with  two  ounces  oi 
butter,  fry  them  of  a  light  brown,  add  one  tabkspoonful 
of  curry  powder,  mix  it  well,  then  add  three  pints  of  white 
sauce  (No.  7),  and  a  pint  of  broth ;  boil  altogether  twenty 
minutes,  pass  it  through  a  tammie,  put  it  again  into  a 
stewpan,  let  it  boil,  season  with  a  Uttle  salt  and  sugar. 


RXM07S8.  1 89 

pour  over  the  head  and  serve  very  hot.  If  the  currie  is 
preferred  browner,  use  a  little  brown  gravy  (No.  135); 
more  currie  powder  may  be  added  if  required  very  hot. 

No.  465.  Saddle  of  Mutton  a  la  BreUmne. 

Roast  a  saddle  of  mutton  quite  plain  (see  kitchen  at 
home),  for  the  sauce  wash  and  soak  well  a  pint  of  young 
dry  French  haricots,  put  them  into  a  large  stewpan  with 
three  quarts  of  water  (cold),  an  ounce  of  salt,  and  an  ounce 
of  butter ;  set  them  over  a  brisk  fire  till  they  boil,  then  set 
them  at  the  comer  and  let  them  simmer  for  five  hours,  or 
tin  tender,  drain  them  on  a  sieve,  cut  four  onions  in  thin 
slices,  put  them  in  a  stewpan,  with  three  ounces  of  butter, 
stir  them  over  the  fire  till  they  are  a  light  brown  colour, 
then  add  half  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  (mix  it  well),  and  a 
pint  of  good  gravy ;  when  it  boils  put  in  the  haricots,  mix 
them  well,  and  season  with  a  saltspoonfiil  of  pepper,  and 
four  ditto  of  salt,  add  the  gravy  from  the  mutton,  with  half 
an  ounce  of  glaze,  pour  them  on  the  dish,  dress  the  saddle 
on  the  top  and  serve.  Care  must  be  taken  not  to  have 
this  sauce  either  too  thick  or  too  thin. 

No.  466.  Saddle  of  Mutton  au  Laver. 

Roast  the  saddle  quite  plain,  put  two  pounds  of  fresh 
laver  in  a  stewpan,  with  two  tablespoonftds  of  catsup,  foiur 
ounces  of  butter,  a  teaspoonfiil  of  salt,  a  Kttle  pepper,  four 
tablespoonftds  of  brovm  sauce,  and  one  ounce  of  glaze, 
make  it  very  hot,  pour  in  the  dish,  dress  the  saddle  upon 
it  and  serve. 

No.  467.  Saddle  of  Mutton  a  la  Polonaise. 

Roast  a  middling-sized  saddle  of  mutton,  and  let  it  ge 
cold,  then  cut  off  all  the  meat,  leaving  the  bone  and  flaps 
tmcut,  stand  it  on  a  strong  dish  that  will  bear  the  oven ; 
have  ready  some  mashed  potatoes  rather  stiff  with  which 


1 90  REMOVES. 

build  a  wall  round  the  bone  and  flaps,  to  shape  it, 
again  like  the  saddle,  mince  the  meat  you  have  cut 
out  very  fine,  put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  onions 
in  a  middling-sized  stewpan,  with  half  an  ounce  of 
butter,  fry  them  a  very  light  brown,  then  add  half  a 
tablespoonful  of  flour  (mix  well),  a  quart  of  brown  sauce 
(No.  1),  and  half  a  pint  of  stock-,  let  it  boil  ten  minutes, 
then  add  the  mutton  (mix  well),  season  with  pepper,  salt, 
and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  catsup,  make  it  quite  hot,  then 
add  three  yolks  of  eggs,  stir  well  over  the  fire  for  three 
minutes  to  set  the  eggs,  put  it  into  the  saddle,  ^g  all  over 
with  a  paste-brush,  cover  the  top  with  bread-crumbs,  melt 
a  little  butter,  which  sprinkle  over  the  bread-crumbs,  put  it 
in  a  moderate  oven  half  an  hour,  salamander  a  Ught  brovni, 
serve  in  the  same  dish,  and  pour  the  following  sauce  round ; 
put  a  pint  of  brown  sauce  in  a  stewpan,  with  half  a  pint  of 
broth,  a  spoonful  of  catsup,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  and 
the  smallest  piece  of  garUck  imaginable  scraped  on  the  tip 
of  a  knife,  boil  altogether  five  minutes,  it  is  then  ready. 
This  dish  may  be  made  of  the  remains  of  a  saddle  of  mut- 
ton left  fi-bm  a  previous  dinner,  by  procuring  sufficient  mut- 
ton for  mincing,  and  is  equally  as  good. 

No.  468.  Saddle  of  Mutton  a  la  Marseillaise, 

Prepare  the  saddle  of  mutton  exactly  as  for  Polonaise, 
only  when  you  put  in  the  mince,  which  you  have  made 
rather  stiffer,  have  ready  prepared  the  following  puree  :  cut 
six  onions  in  Small  dice,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  v«ith  two 
ounces  of  butter,  let  them  simmer  gently  until  quite  tender, 
then  add  half  a  tablespoonfcd  of  flour  (mix  well),  four 
ditto  of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  and  ten  of  milk,  let  it  boil 
twenty  minutes,  season  with  a  Httle  pepper,  salt,  and  sugar, 
stir  in  the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  stir  over  the  fire  a  minute  to 
set  the  eggs,  let  it  cool  a  Uttle,  and  spread  it  over  the 
mince,  egg  over  and  bread-crumb  the  top,  put  it  in  a  mode- 


EEMOVES.  191 

rate  oven  half  an  hour,  salamander  a  Ught  brown,  and  serve 
with  a  sauce  Soubise  (No.  47)  rather  thinnish  round  it. 

No.  469.  Saddle  of  Mutton  rdti,  braise,  a  la  Mirabeau, 

Trim  a  nice  saddle  of  mutton  (South  Down  are  the  best, 
fixHO  four  to  five  years  old),  take  off  the  skin  and  skewer 
the  flaps  underneath,  roast  it  in  vegetables  as  directed  for 
fillet  of  beef  (No.  417),  about  two  hours  and  a  half  will  be 
sufficient,  take  it  from  the  vegetables,  glaze  and  salamander 
nicely,  place  it  on  your  dish  and  serve  with  the  following 
sauce :  put  a  quart  of  poivrade  sauce  (No.  32)  in  a  stewpan, 
and  when  boiling  add  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  four  of 
chopped  gherldns,  and  two  ounces  of  boiled  beetroot  cut  in 
dice ;  sauce  over  and  serve. 

No.  470.  Saddle  of  Mutton,  roti,  braise,  aux  legumes  glace. 

Roast  the  saddle  in  vegetables  as  in  the  last,  glaze  and 
salamander,  dress  on  your  dish  with  a  border  of  mashed 
potatoes  round,  upon  which  dress  your  vegetables  prepared 
as  for  stewed  rump  of  beef  a  la  Flamande  (No.  428),  pour- 
ing the  same  sauce  over  them. 

No.  471.  Haunch  of  Mutton. 

This  deUcate  joint  is  generally  plain  roasted  (see  Kitchen 
at  Home) ;  when  of  the  first  quahty  and  properly  kept  it 
is  by  many  compared  to  venison,  although  there  is  not 
the  least  resemblance,  the  fat  of  venison  being  so  very  de* 
Ucate  and  palatable  that  nothing  can  equal  it,  but  both  are 
veiy  estimable.  I  shall  give  but  a  few  simple  receipts  in 
order  to  preserve  the  flavour  of  this  deUcate  joint. 

No.  472.  Haunch  of  Mutton  aujusde  Groseilles. 

Koast  the  haunch  quite  plain,  put  twenty  tablespoonfuls 
of  brown  sauce  (No.  1)  in  a  stewpan,  with  ten  of  con- 
somme (No.  134),  one  of  tomata  sauce  (No.  37)»  and  an 


192  RBMOYES. 

onnoe  of  glase,  boil  it  gently  half  an  hour,  then  add  four 
tablespoonfals  of  red  currant  jelly,  boil  up,  pour  it  on  the 
dish,  and  the  moment  you  serve  lay  the  haunch  upon  it ; 
should  you  dish  the  haunch  too  soon  the  fat  would  run 
from  it  and  spoil  the  sauce ;  it  should  be  carved  in  the 
same  way  as  a  haunch  of  venison,  then  you  keep  the  gravy 
from  running  into  the  sauce,  and  can  serve  it  separately. 

No.  473.  Haimch  of  Mutton  a  la  Bretonne. 

Plain  roast  the  haunch,  and  proceed  as  for  saddle  of 
mutton  a  la  Bretonne  (No.  465). 

No.  474.  Haunch  of  Mutton  a  la  PoUmaiae, 

Ex>ast  a  haunch,  and  when  cold  cut  out  all  the  meat  from 
the  middle,  leaving  the  edges  (or  the  mashed  potatoes 
would  not  stand),  mince  the  meat,  shape  the  haunch  vnth 
mashed  potatoes,  and  proceed  as  for  the  saddle  (No.  467). 
You  can  use  a  haunch  left  from  a  previous  dinner,  if  not 
too  much  cut. 

No.  475.  Haunch  of  Mviton  a  la  £oheniienne. 

Procure  a  small  haunch  of  mutton  of  about  twelve  pounds 
in  weight,  beat  it  well  with  a  rolling-pin,  lay  it  in  an 
earthen  pan,  and  cover  with  a  marinade  as  prepared  for 
fillet  of  beef  (No.  426),  let  it  remain  a  week,  roast  it  in 
paste  in  the  same  manner  as  for  the  haunch  of  venison 
(see  No.  540);  roast  it  three  hours,  take  it  oat  of  the 
paste,  glaze  and  salamander  of  a  nice  brown  colour,  put 
a  frill  of  paper  to  the  knuckle,  and  dress  upon  your 
dish  with  the  following  sauce  round  it :  pass  half  a  pint 
of  the  marinade  it  was  pickled  in  through  a  sieve  into  a 
stewpan,  add  a  quart  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1),  let  it  boil  till 
it  becomes  rather  thick,  skim  well,  add  one  tablespoonful  of 
red  currant  jelly,  pass  through  a  tammie  into  a  clean  stew- 
pan,  then  add  twenty  blanched  mushrooms,  twenly  small 


REMOVBS.  1 93 

pickled  onioDS^  and  twenty  French  olives  (stoned) ;  let  them 
warm  in  the  sauce,  which  slightly  flavour  with  a  little 
scraped  garlick  sauce  over. 

No.  476.  Haunch  of  Mutton  trnx  ISffumes  places. 
Proceed  as  directed  for  the  saddle  (No.  470). 

No.  477.  Le^  of  Mutton  a  la  Bohemienne, 

Proceed  as  directed  for  the  haunch  (No.  475),  but  of 
course  it  will  not  require  so  much  time  to  roast  (for  which 
see  Kitchen  at  Home). 

No.  478.  Leff  of  Mutton  a  la  Bretonne. 
See  saddle  of  mutton  (No.  465). 

No.  479.  Leff  of  Mutton  au  Laver, 
See  saddle  of  mutton  (No.  466). 

No.  480.  Le^  of  Mutton  a  la  Proven^ale, 

Procure  a  nice  deUcate  leg  of  mutton,  beat  it  well  with  a 
rolling-pin,  make  an  incision  at  the  knuckle  in  which  push 
four  cloves  of  garlick  as  deep  into  the  fleshy  part  of  the  leg 
as  you  can,  roast  it  quite  plain,  and  serve  a  thin  sauce  a 
la  Bretonne  (No.  465)  under  it,  into  which  you  have  put  a 
small  piece  of  scraped  garUck. 

No.  481.  Giffot  de  Mouton  de  sept  heures. 

What !  seven  hoiu*s  to  cook  a  leg  of  mutton  I  exclaims 
John  Bull ;  shade  of  the  third  George  protect  us,  why  'tis 
nonseuse ;  to  which  I  must  answer  you  are  right,  it  would 
rob  it  of  its  flavour ;  but  still  it  gains  another  flavour  which 
is  far  from  being  bad ;  and  you  must  observe  that,  although 
there  will  be  L  noiirishment  it  will  be  much  easier  of 
digestion.     Well,  well,  methinks  I  hear  him  say,  if  you 

13 


194  REMOVES. 

are  determmed  upon  publishing  that  destructive  receipt 
(which  absurdity^I  am  sure  no  one  upon  this  soil  will  ever 
follow,  or  disgrace  their  tables  with),  write  it  in  French  and 
offend  no  one ;  but  for  heaven's  sake  never  invite  me  to 
dine  with  you  on  the  day  you  find  room  for  such  a  dish 
upon  your  table,  so  taking  the  hint  I  give  it  in  my  native 
tongue : — Desosse  un  assez  gros  gigot  de  mouton  jusqu'a 
la  moitie  du  manche;  vous  assaisonnerez  des  lardons  de  sel,  de 
gros  poivre,  de  thyme  et  de  laurier  piles,  et  vous  piquerez  le 
dedans  de  votre  gigot ;  ne  faites  pas  sortir  vos  lardons  par- 
dessous.     Quand  il  est  bien  pique,  vous  lui  ferez  prendre 
sa  forme  premiere ;  vous  le  ficellerez  de  maniere  qu'on  ne 
s'aperfoive  pas  qu'on  I'ait  desosse;  vous  mettrez  ensuite 
des  bardes  de  lard  au  fond  de  votre  braisiere,  quelques 
tranches  de  jambon,  les  os  concasses^  quelques  tranches  de 
mouton,   quatre   carottes,    six   oignons,    trois  feuilles   de 
laurier,  un  peu  de  thyme,  trois  clous  de  girofle,  un  bouquet 
de  persil  et  de  ciboule,  deux  cuillerees  a  pot  de  bouillon : 
vous  mettrez  a  cuire  votre  gigot  pendant  sept  heures,  et  le 
ferez  aller  a  tres  petit  feu ;  vous  en  mettrez  aussi  sur  le  cou- 
vercle  de  la  braisiere.    Au  moment  de  servir  vous  I'^outterez, 
vous  le  deficellerez,  le  glacerez,  et  le  servirez  avec  le  mouille- 
ment  reduit  dans  lequel  il  aura  cuit ;  ayant  soin  de  bien- 
ecumer  toute  la  graisse  que  votre  fond  est  susceptible  d'avoir. 

No.  482.  Necks  of  Mutton  a  la  Legumiere, 

Cut  off  the  scrags  and  take  the  chine  bones  from  two 
necks  of  mutton,  lard  the  lean  parts  with  lardons  of  fat 
bacon  about  three  inches  long,  roast  them  in  vegetables 
as  for  fillet  of  beef  (No.  417) ;  when  done,  dress  them  on  a 
dish,  placing  fillet  to  fillet,  so  as  to  form  a  saddle ;  fiU  up 
the  crevice  between  them  with  mashed  potatoes,  upon  which 
dress  small  pieces  of  cauliflower  and  small  bunches  of  aspa- 
ragus, or  Brussels  sprouts ;  make  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes 


REMOVES.  195 

Tomid  the  mutton,  upon  which  dress  some  onions,  with 
pieces  of  carrots  and  turnips  stewed  (see  stewed  rump  of 
beef  a  la  Flamande,  No.  428),  place  four  onions  at  each 
end  of  the  dish,  and  stick  a  fine  head  of  asparagus  in  each ; 
glaze  the  mutton,  and  pour  a  demi-glace  (No.  9)  over  the 
vegetables. 

No.  488.  Necks  of  Mutton  a  la  Bretonne. 

Trim  the  necks  as  above,  roast  them  quite  plain  (see 
Kitchen  at  Home),  and  sauce  as  for  saddle  of  mutton  a  la 
Bretonne,  (No.  465.) 

No.  484.  Neck  of  Mutton  a  la  BoMmienne. 

Proceed  as  for  haunch  of  mutton  (No.  475),  only  three 
days  in  the  marinade  will  be  sufficient. 

No.  485.  Neck  of  Mutton  a  la  Proven  f ale. 

Trim  a  neck  of  mutton,  lard  it,  and  put  it  into  a  conve- 
nient sized  stewpan,  with  two  onions,  one  carrot,  one  turnip 
(cut  in  slices)  six  cloves,  a  blade  of  mace,  and  a  bunch  of 
parsley,  thyme  and  bay-leaves ;  cover  with  white  broth,  and 
set  it  on  the  fire ;  when  boiling,  set  it  on  the  comer  to 
simmer  for  two  hours ;  take  it  out,  and  lay  it  on  a  saute- 
pan,  spread  a  puree  of  onions  as  for  cotelettes  de  mouton  a 
la  Provenfale  (No.  701)  over  the  top,  egg  and  bread-crumb 
it,  put  it  in  the  oven  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  salamander  a 
light  brown,  sauce  with  demi-glace  as  for  the  cotelettes. 

No.  486.  Neck  of  Mutton  a  la  Charte. 

Trim  two  necks  of  mutton  as  before,  lard  and  braise  as 
ill  the  last  article ;  then  peel  some  young  turnips,  and  cut 
about  a  pint  of  scoops  from  them  the  size  of  marbles  (with 
an  iron  scoop) ;  put  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  sugar  into  a 
stewpan,  place  it  over  a  sharp  fire,  and  just  as  it  begins  to 


1 90  REMOVES. 

brown,  add  two  ounces  of  butter,  and  the  scooped  turnips ; 
pass  them  ten  minutes  over  the  fire,  then  add  a  pint  and  a 
half  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1),  and  half  a  pint  of  consommee ; 
let  it  simmer  till  the  turnips  are  quite,  done ;  take  them  out^ 
and  put  them  into  another  stewpan,  skim  and  reduce  the 
sauce  until  it  becomes  rather  thickish,  season  a  little  more 
if  required  and  pass  it  through  a  tammie  upon  the  turnips, 
dress  the  necks  upon  a  dish  fillet  to  fillet  to  form  a  saddle ; 
glaze,  pour  the  sauce  and  turnips  round,  have  twelve  pieces 
of  turnips  cut  in  the  form  of  pears  and  stewed  as  (No.  1106), 
dress  sik  of  them,  one  upon  the  other,  in  pyramids  at  each 
end  of  the  dish,  and  serve  very  hot. 

No.  487.  Breast  of  Mutton  panee,  ffriUee,  aauee piqtumte. 

Procure  two  breasts  of  mutton  cut  as  large  as  possible, 
which  put  in  a  stewpan,  and  braise  three  hours  in  the  same 
manner  as  described  for  neck  of  mutton  Provenfale  (No.  485), 
previous  to  placing  them  in  the  stewpan  tie  them  well  up 
with  string ;  when  done  take  up,  lay  them  on  a  dish,  take 
all  the  string  and  bones  from  them,  which  will  leave  with 
faciUty,  place  another  dish  upon  them,  and  press  till  quite 
cold  with  a  fourteen  pounds  weight ;  about  half  an  hour 
before  serving  trim,  egg  and  bread-crumb,  beat  gently 
with  a  knife,  melt  a  httle  butter  in  a  stewpan,  and  with  a 
paste-brush  butter  the  mutton  all  over,  throw  them  again 
into  bread-crumbs,  beat  gently  again  with  your  knife,  and 
put  them  on  the  gridiron  over  a  moderate  fire ;  when  lightly 
browned  on  one  side,  turn  them  by  placing  another  gridiron 
over  and  turning  both  gridirons  together ;  when  done,  take 
them  from  the  gridiron  with  a  fish-slice,  lay  on  your  dish, 
and  serve  sauce  piquante  (No.  27)  round,  or  you  may  serve 
them  with  dressed  spinach  (No.  1087),  sauce  Soubise  (No.  47) 
or  fines  herbes  (No.  26). 


aEMovES.  197 

No.  488.  Saddle  of  Lamb  aux  petits  pois. 

Roast  a  saddle  «of  Iamb  in  vegetables^  as  described  for 
fillet  of  beef  (No.  417) ;  when  done  glaze  and  salamander  a 
light  brown  colour ;  put  a  quart  of  young  peas  boiled  very 
green  into  a  stewpan,  quite  hot,  with  two  ounces  of  butter, 
half  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  a  Uttle  salt,  and  six  table- 
spoonfiils  of  bechamel  sauce  (No.  7) ;  shake  them  round  over 
the  fire  a  few  minutes,  pour  them  in  your  dish,  and  dress 
the  saddle  over.  A  saddle  will  require  about  two  hours 
roasting. 

No.  489.  Saddle  of  Lamb  a  la  Seoigne. 

Boast  the  saddle  with  vegetables  as  before,  make  a  puree 
d'asperges  (No.  102),  cut  two  large  cucumbers  in  pieces 
about  two  inches  and  a  half  in  length ;  cut  each  piece  length- 
wise in  three,  take  out  the  cores,  cut  them  in  the  shape  of 
the  bowl  of  a  spoon,  and  stew  them  as  described  (No.  103), 
have  ready  some  quenelles  de  volaiUe  (No.  120),  place  a 
roU  of  mashed  potatoes  at  each  end  of  the  dish;  at  the 
bottom  dress  haK  a  circle,  with  the  cucumber  and  quenelles, 
by  laying  them  alternately  in  a  slanting  position,  and  at  the 
top  of  the  dish  lay  nine  quenelles  upon  a  roll  of  potatoes, 
formed  like  the  bows  of  a  boat,  so  that  the  first  qu^aelle 
stands  out  in  a  point,  and  the  others  are  brought  gradually 
in  to  the  ends ;  place  a  piece  of  stewed  cucumber  cut  like  a 
diamond  between  each  quenelle,  and  dress  some  nice  heads 
of  sprue  grass  in  the  centre,  at  each  end  of  the  dish ;  place 
the  saddle  in  the  middle,  and  pour  the  puree  d'asperges 
(quite  hot)  on  each  side. 

No.  490.  Saddle  of  Lamb  a  VIndienne. 

Roast  the  saddle  in  vegetables  as  before,  then  put  a 
quart  of  sauce  a  I'lndienne  (No.  46)  into  a  stewpan ;  when 


198  REMOVES. 

boiling  and  ready  to  serve,  add  thirty  veiy  mild  green 
Indian  pickles.     When  hot,  sauce  round  and  serve. 

No.  491 .  Saddle  of  Lamb  demi  Provengale. 

Roast  the  saddle  with  vegetables  as  before;  cut  six 
large  onions  in  small  dice,  which  put  into  a  stewpan  with 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  oil;  stir  over  a  slow  fire  till  they 
are  quite  tender,  then  add  half  a  tablespoonful  of  flour 
(mix  well)  and  twelve  do.  of  white  sauce  (No.  7) ;  boil  ten 
minutes,  season  with  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  do.  of 
sugar,  and  a  quarter  do.  of  pepper ;  add  the  yolks  of  three 
eggs,  stir  it  over  the  fire  half  a  minute,  lay  it  out  on  a 
dish,  and  when  nearly  cold  spread  it  over  the  saddle  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness ;  egg  and  bread-crumb  over, 
put  it  in  a  sharp  oven  ten  minutes,  salamander  of  a  light 
brown,  and  serve  with  sauce  demi-glace  (No.  9)  round  it. 

No.  492.  Saddle  of  Lamb  a  la  Mena^ere. 

Plain  roast  a  saddle*  and  allow  it  to  get  cold,  cut  out  all 
the  meat,  leaving  the  flaps  untouched,  shape  round  the 
saddle  a  wall  of  stiff  mashed  potatoes,  cut  the  meat  up  in 
square  thin  shoes,  then  put  a  quart  of  white  sauce  (No.  7) 
in  a  stewpan ;  let  it  boil  up,  put  in  your  meat,  season  with 
lemon-juice,  pepper,  and  salt;  moisten  with  a  little  white 
broth,  and  when  it  is  quite  hot  add  the  yolks  of  two  eggs, 
mixed  with  four  spoonfuls  of  cream ;  place  it  within  the 
saddle,  egg  all  over,  sprinkle  bread-crumbs  on  the  top,  and 
put  it  in  a  sharp  oven  upon  the  dish  you  intend  serving  it 
on  a  quarter  of  an  hour ;  have  ready  poached  eight  eggs, 
lay  them  on  the  top,  garnish  round  with  peas,  Brussels 
sprouts,  or  asparagus,  nicely  boiled,  and  pour  a  white  demi- 
glace  (No.  7)  round ;  serve  immediately ;  ham  or  tongue, 
with  mushrooms  cut  in  shoes,  may  be  added  with  the  lamb. 

*  See  Kitchen  at  Horac. 


REMOVES.  190 


No.  493.  Haunch  of  Lamb, 

lake  the  haunch  of  mutton,  this  joint  is  usually  plain 
roasted,  but  for  a  change  it  may  be  roasted  with  vege- 
tables, and  served  with  any  of  the  sauces,  as  used  for  the 
saddle  in  the  foregoing  receipts.  It  will  require  nearly  two 
hours  roasting. 

The  fore-quarter  may  likewise  be  dressed  the  same  ways. 

No.  494.  Fore-quarter  of  Lamb  a  VHdteliere. 

Roast  a  fore-quarter  well  covered  with  oiled  paper,  and  a 
good  distance  fix>m  the  fire,  when  done  it  must  be  a  light 
gold  colour,  then  put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  maitre  d'hotel 
butter  (No.  79)  in  a  stewpan,  and  when  beginning  to  melt 
add  half  a  pint  of  good  cream ;  shake  the  stewpan  round  till 
hot,  but  not  near  boiling,  and  the  moment  you  serve  pour  it 
upon  the  dish,  and  dress  the  fore-quarter  upon  it. 

No.  495.  Fore-quarter  of  Home  Lamb  atix  pointed  d^asperges. 

Roast  the  lamb  exactly  as  in  the  last,  have  ready  a  sauce 
aux  pointes  d'asperges  (No.  101),  pour  it  hot  on  your  dish, 
lay  the  lamb  upon  it,  and  serve.  It  will  take  about  an 
hour  roasting. 

No.  496.  Riba  of  Lamb  a  la  Chanceliere, 

m 

Roast  a  fore-quarter  of  lamb  with  vegetables  (see  No.  417), 
and  when  done  cut  out  the  shoulder  very  roimd,  cut  oflT  all 
the  meat  from  it,  and  mince  it  very  fine,  with  half  a  pound 
of  cooked  ham,  twenty  button  mushrooms,  and  six  middUng- 
sized  French  truffles;  then  put  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped 
eschalot  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salad  oil ;  fry 
them  of  a  light  yellow  colour,  add  a  quarter  of  a  table- 
spoonful  of  flour  (mix  well),  half  a  pint  of  stock,  and  a  pint 


200  REMOVES. 

of  white  sauce ;  let  it  boil,  keeping  it  stirred,  add  your  meat 
and  the  other  ingredients,  season  with  pepper  and  salt^  and 
when  boiling  add  the  yolks  of  two  eggs ;  stir  them  in  quickly, 
and  pour  the  whole  into  the  place  you  cut  the  shoulder 
from ;  egg  it  over  with  a  paste-brush,  sprinkle  bread-crumbs 
and  grated  Parmesan  cheese  over,  brown  it  lightly  with  the 
salamander,  dress  upon  your  dish,  pour  a  sauce  bechamel  a 
la  creme  (No.  56),  rather  thin,  round  and  serve. 

No.  496.  Leg  of  Lamb  a  la  St  John. 

Roast  the  leg  in  vegetables  as  described  (see  No.  417)  ; 
an  hour  and  a  half  would  be  sufficient ;  when  done^  place  a 
paper  frill  on  the  knuckle,  and  lay  it  in  your  dish ;  have 
ready  prepared  the  following  sauce :  put  the  yolks  of  three 
eggs  in  a  stewpan,  with  half  a  pound  of  fresh  butter,  the 
juice  of  half  a  lemon,  a  Uttle  pepper,  salt,  and  two  table- 
,  spoonfuls  of  tarragon  vinegar ;  place  it  over  a  moderate  fire, 
keeping  it  stirred  with  a  wooden  spoon,  and  when  the  butter 
has  melted  and  begins  to  thicken  (great  care  must  be  taken 
that  the  eggs  do  not  curdle,  which  they  will  do  if  you  allow 
it  to  get  too  hot  before  the  butter  is  melted,  or  allow  it  to 
boil  in  the  least),  add  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  and  a 
little  sugar ;  mix  all  well  together,  pass  through  a  tammie 
into  a  clean  stewpan,  place  again  over  the  fire  to  get  hot 
(but  not  to  boil),  keeping  it  stirred ;  add  half  a  gill  of  cream, 
and  if  too  thick  a  little  milk,  pour  it  over  the  lamb,  have 
ready  a  few  pistachios  each  cut  in  eight  lengthwise,  sprinkle 
over,  and  serve  very  hot. 

No.  497.  Leg  of  Lamb  aux  pots. 

Roast  a  leg  of  lamb  quite  plain,  have  ready  boiled,  very 
green,  two  quarts  of  young  peas,  put  them  hot  into  a  stew- 
pan, with  three  pats  of  butter,  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  a 
little  pepper,  salt,  and  six  spoonfuls  of  white  sauce  (No.  7), 


RBMOVBS.  201 

mix  all  well  tc^ether  over  the  fire,  without  breaking  the 
peas ;  pour  them  in  a  dish,  dress  the  leg  over  and  serve. 

No.  498.  Boiled  Leg  of  Lamb  and  Spinach, 

Boil  a  leg  of  lamb  quite  plain,  which  will  take  from  an 
hour  and  a  quarter  to  an  hour  and  a  half  (add  a  little  milk 
to  the  water  you  boil  it  in),  have  ready  dressed  sufficient 
spinach  to  cover  the  bottom  of  the  dish  an  inch  and  a  half 
in  thickness,  dress  the  lamb  upon  it,  and  serve ;  to  dress 
spinach,  see  No.  106. 

No.  499.  Boiled  Leg  of  Lamb  a  la  Palestine, 

Boil  a  leg  of  lamb,  dress  it  on  your  dish,  and  pour  a 
sauce  Palestine  (No.  87)  over  it. 

No.  500.  Boast  Leg  of  Lamd  a  la  Jardiniere. 

Plain  roast  the  lamb,  have  ready  a  sauce  jardiniere  (No.l  00) . 
pour  it  on  the  dish,  and  dress  the  leg  upon  it. 
The  shoulder  may  be  dressed  exactly  as  the  leg. 

No.  501.  Shoulder  of  Lamb  a  la  BruxeUaise. 

Roast  a  shoulder  of  lamb  with  vegetables,  and  serve  with 
sauce  as  for  neck  of  veal  a  la  Bruxellaise  (No.  454). 

No.  502.  Shoulder  of  Lamb  a  la  Polonaise. 

Cut  all  the  meat  from  the  top  of  the  shoulder  and  a  little 
from  the  bottom,  so  as  not  to  spoil  the  shape ;  build  a  wall 
of  mashed  potatoes  about  two  inches  high  roimd  it,  and 
proceed  as  for  saddle  of  mutton  (No.  467). 


202  REMOVES. 


PORK. 

Fork  is  a  great  favourite  with  some  persons  but  scarcely 
ever  used  for  removes,  except  plain  roasted  stuffed  with  sage 
and  onions,  that  I  shall  describe  in  my  Kitchen  at  Home^ 
but  I  shall  here  give  six  new  ways  of  dressing  pork  for 
removes ;  it  must  be  of  the  best  quality,  small,  and,  above 
all,  in  season. 

No.  503.  Leg  of  Pork  sauce  Robert, 

Score  the  skin  of  the  leg  with  a  sharp  knife,  oil  some 
paper,  wrap  the  leg  up  in  it,  and  roast  about  two  hours  and 
a  half  of  a  nice  yellow  colour ;  have  ready  the  following 
sauce :  put  four  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  onions  into  a 
stewpan,  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  stir  over  a  moderate 
fire  till  the  onions  are  nicely  browned,  then  add  three  table^ 
spoonfuls  of  tarragon  vinegar  (let  it  boil),  a  quart  of  brown 
sauce  (No.  1),  half  a  pint  of  consonune,  and  a  Uttle  brown 
gravy ;  let  it  boil  at  the  comer  of  the  stove  about  twenty 
minutes,  skim  it  well,  reduce  it  till  it  adheres  to  the  spoon, 
season  with  a  httle  cayenne  pepper,  salt,  and  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  French  mustard;  when  ready  to  serve  add 
twenty  small  gherkins,  twenty  pickled  mushrooms,  twenty 
small  quenelles  (No.  120),  pour  the  sauce  in  the  dish,  dress 
the  leg  upon  it,  put  a  paper  frill  on  the  knuckle  and  serve. 

No.  504.  Leg  of  Pork  a  la  Piedmontaiae, 

Roast  the  leg  as  before,  and  prepare  the  sauce  thus :  put 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  onions  into  a  stewpan,  with 
four  of  Indian  pickle  vinegar,  let  boil  a  few  minutes,  then 
add  twenty  tablespoonfuls  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1),  and  ten 
ditto  of  consomme,  let  boil  twenty  minutes,  skim   well. 


REMOVES.  203 

season  with  a  little  cayenne  pepper,  sugar,  and  salt,  pass  it 
through  a  tammie  into  a  clean  stewpan,  stone  forty  French 
olives,  put  them  into  the  sauce,  glaze  the  pork  and  pour  the 
sance  round. 

No.  505.   Loin  of  Pork  a  la  Bourgvignote, 

Trim  a  smaQ  loin  of  pork,  cut  off  all  the  rind,  wrap  it  in 
oiled  paper,  and  roast  of  a  nice  yellow  colour  \  have  ready 
the  following  preparation :  cut  six  laj^e  onions  in  small 
dice  and  put  them  in  a  stewpan,  with  two  ounces  of  butter ; 
let  them  stew  over  a  slow  fire  till  quite  tender  and  rather 
brown,  then  add  half  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  (mix  well),  and 
fifteen  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1) ;  boil  twenty  minutes,  season 
with  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  sage,  half  ditto  of  sugar,  and 
half  of  salt,  finish  with  the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  stir  over  the 
fire  half  a  minute  to  set  the  eggs,  and  spread  it  over  the 
pork  half  an  inch  in  thickness,  egg  and  bread-crumb  over 
it,  place  it  in  the  oven  ten  minutes,  salamander  a  Ught 
brown,  and  serve  the  following  sauce  roimd  it :  put  fifteen 
spoonfuls  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1)  and  six  of  consomme  in 
a  stewpan,  with  two  of  Harvey  sauce,  one  of  catsup,  and 
half  a  one  of  Chili  vinegar,  boil  altogether  ten  minutes, 
and  finish  with  a  httle  sugar,  salt,  and  pepper,  if  required. 

No.  506.  Neck  of  Pork  a  la  Bemouladey  a  VIndienne, 

Trim  the  neck,  but  do  not  take.off  the  rind,  wrap  it  in 
oiled  paper  and  roast  as  previously;  make  a  good  sauce 
remoulade  (No.  717),  to  which  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
chopped  Indian  pickle,  pour  the  sauce  in  the  dish  and  dress 
the  pork  upon  it. 

No.  507.  Neck  of  Pork  a  la  Venitienne, 

Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  onions  into  a  stewpan, 
with  an  ounce  of  butter,  fry  rather  brown,  then  add  half  a 


204  REMOVES. 

tablespoonful  of  flour  (mix  well),  and  twelve  ditto  of  brown 
sauce,  reduce  it  until  thick,  add  half  a  tablespoonful  of 
chopped  parsley,  one  ditto  of  chopped  mushrooms,   and 
season  with  half  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  a  little  salt,  and 
cayenne  pepper ;  let  it  cool,  open  part  of  the  neck  length- 
wise between  the  skin  and  the  flesh,  put  in  the  above  pre- 
paration, tie  up  the  neck  in  oiled  paper  and  roast  it,  then 
prepare  the  following  sauce :  put  two  chopped  eschalots  in 
a  stewpan,  with  a  spoonful  of  salad  oil,  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  common  vinegar,  and  a  small  piece  of  glaze ;  boil  five 
minutes,  then  add  six  tablespoonfuls  of  brown  sauce  (No.. 
1),  six  of  consomme,  and  six  ditto  of  tomata  sauce  (No. 
37) ;  boil  altogether  ten  minutes,  pour  the  sauce  on  your 
dish  and  serve  the  pork  upon  it. 

No.  508.  Boast  SucHnff  Pig. 

Procure  a  sucking  pig  of  from  eight  to  nine  pounds, 
wash  the  inside  and  wipe  it  well  with  a  dry  cloth,  prepare 
the  stufiing  thus :  boil  four  large  onions  until  quite  tender, 
chop  them  very  fine,  with  six  leaves  of  sage,  a  Uttle  thyme 
and  parsley,  season  with  a  little  cayenne  pepper  and  salt, 
add  three  tablespoonfids  of  bread-crumbs,  and  mix  it  with 
three  eggs,  stufi*  the  pig  quite  full,  sew  up  the  belly,  put 
it  on  the  spit,  place  it  at  a  distance  from  a  moderate  firo 
(folded  in  buttered  paper)  for  half  an  hour,  then  put  it 
closer,  allowing  it  two  hours  to  roast,  but  ten  minutes 
before  it  is  done  take  off  all  the  paper  to  allow  it  to  become 
brown  and  crisp ;  serve  plam  gravy  in  the  dish,  and  bread 
sauce  with  currants  in  it  in  a  boat ;  before  sending  it  to 
table  take  off  the  head  and  cut  the  pig  in  halves  down  the 
back. 

No.  509.  Sucking  Pig  a  la  Savoyarde, 
Take   a  very  deUcate   sucking   pig   and   prepare   the 


REMOVES.  205 

following  stufiSng:    put  two  tablespoonfuls  of    chopped 
onions  in  a  ste\i  pan,  with  a  teaspoonfal  of  oil,  pass  them 
over  a  moderate  fire  five  minutes,  add  half  a  pound  of  rice 
previously  well  boiled  in  stock,  half  a  pound  of  sausage- 
meat,  four  pats  of  butter,  a  little  chopped  parsley,  pepper, 
salt,  and  three  eggs ;  mix  all  well  together,  stuff  the  pig, 
and  roast  it  in  oiled  paper,  as  in  the  last ;  prepare  the  sauce 
thus :  put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  onions  in  a  stew- 
pan,  with  one  of  salad  oil  and  fry  them  quite  white,  add  a 
win^lassful  of  sherry  or  Madeira,  a  pint  of  white  sauce 
(No.  7),  and  six  tablespoonfuls  of  milk,  let  it  boil  a  quarter 
of  an  hour,  skim  well,  add  a  good  tablespoonfdl  of  chopped 
mushrooms,  half  ditto  of  chopped  parsley,  a  teaspoonful  of 
sugar,    ditto    of   salt,  ttd  a  little  white  pepper;   dress 
the  pig  in  the  dish,  pour  the  sauce  round,  and  garnish  with 
small  fried  sausages. 

No.  510.  Turkey  a  la  Nelson, 

Make  a  croustade  resembhng  the  head  of  a  ship,  as 
represented  in  the  design ;  procure  a  very  white  nice  young 
turkey,  truss  it  as  for  boiUng,  leaving  as  much  of  the  skin 
of  the  neck  attached  to  the  breast  as  possible,  have  ready  the 
following  stuffing:  scrape  an  ounce  of  fat  bacon  (with  a 
knife),  put  it  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped 
eschalots,  pass  five  minutes  over  a  moderate  fire,  then  add 
twenty  tablespoonfuls  of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  let  it  reduce 
till  thick,  add  twenty  small  heads  of  mushrooms,  six  French 
traffics  cut  in  sUces,  and  twelve  cockscombs ;  mix  all  well 
together  over  the  fire,  season  with  a  teaspoonful  of  pow- 
dered sugar,  half  ditto  of  salt,  and  a  httle  white  pepper; 
finish  with  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  stir  over  the  fire  a 
minute  to  set  the  eggs,  and  lay  it  out  on  a  dish  to  get 
cold,  then  detach  the  skin  on  the  breast  from  the  flesh 
without  breaking,  and  force  some  of  the  stuffing  under  the 


206  REMOVES. 

skin ;  put  the  remainder  in  the  interior  of  the  breast,  roast 
it  in  vegetables  as  described  for  fillet  of  beef  (No.  417), 
but  just  before  it  is  done  take  away  the  paper  and  vege- 
tables, and  let  it  remain  before  the  fire  till  of  a  fine  gold 
colour.     Fix  the  croustade  at  the  head  of  the  dish  with  a 
paste  made  of  white  of  egg  and  flour,  make  a  border  of 
mashed  potatoes  round  the  dish,  place  the  turkey  in  the 
centre,  and  have  ready  the  following  garniture :  fiUet  three 
fowls,  lard  and  braise  the  fillets  as  No.  792,  form  the  legs 
into  little  ducklings  as  described  (No.  1024),  prepare  six 
slices  of  tongue  of  the  size  and  shape  of  the  fillets,  and 
dress  them  round  the  turkey  upon  the  mashed  potatoes 
to  form  a  ship.     For  the  sauce  put  two  glasses  of  Madeira 
wine  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  table^poonfiil  of  Chili  vinegar, 
two  minced  apples,  a  small  bunch  of  parsley,  a  spoonful  of 
chopped  mushrooms,  and  half  an  ounce  of  glaze;  let  it 
boil  a  few  minutes,  add  ten  tablespoonf uls  of  tomata  sauce 
(No.  87),  a  quart  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1),  and  a  pint  of 
consomme,  let  it  boil  quickly  until  it  adheres  to  the  spoon, 
stirring  it  the  whole  time,  finish  with  a  tablespoonful  of 
red  currant  jelly,  pass  it  through  a  tammie  into  another 
stewpan,  season  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  boil  it  another 
minute,  glaze  the  turkey,  pour  the  sauce  in  the  dish,  glaze 
the  pieces  of  tongue  and  serve. 

No.  511.  Turkey  a  la  Godard. 

Procure  a  good-sized  turkey,  very  white  and  well  covered 
with  fat,  truss  it  as  for  boiling,  hold  the  breast  over  a 
charcoal  fire  till  the  flesh  is  set,  then  lard  it  with  fat  bacon 
very  neatly,  lay  the  turkey  in  a  braising-pan  breast  up- 
wards, and  pour  in  as  much  good  veal  stock  as  vnll  nearly 
reach  the  larded  part,  start  it  to  boil,  skim,  then  place  it  over 
a  slow  fire  to  simmer  for  three  hours,  keeping  some  live  char- 
coal upon  the  cover  of  the  braising-pan,  and  now  and  then 


RBMOVES.  207 

moistening  the  breast  with  a  httle  of  the  stock ;  when  done 
take  it  up,  give  a  nice  yellow  colour  to  the  bacon  on  the 
breast,  put  it  on  your  dish,  and  have  ready  the  following 
garniture :  prepare  six  large  quenelles  de  volaille  (No.  122), 
truss  and  roast  four  pigeons  (No.  959),  lard  and  cook  four 
fine  veal  sweetbreads  (No.  671),  arrange  them  with  taste 
round  the  tm-key,  and  have  ready  the  following  sauce: 
strain  half  the  stock  the  turkey  was  dressed  in  through  a 
cloth  into  a  stewpan,  let  it  boil,  put  it  on  the  comer  of  the 
stove,  skim  till  you  get  off  every  particle  of  grease,  reduce 
it  to  half,  add  a  quart  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1),  and  half  a 
pint  of  tomata  sauce  (No.  37),  let  boil,  keeping  it  stirred 
till  becoming  a  thickish  demi-glace,  add  two  dozen  cocks- 
combs, and  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  with  a  Uttle  cayenne 
and  salt  if  required,  pour  it  in  the  dish  but  not  over  the 
garniture,  and  serve.     Attelets  of  cockscombs  and  truffles 
are  sometimes  stuck  in  the  breast,  but  it  is  an  impediment 
to  the  carving,  and  it  looks  as  well  without. 

No.  512.  Turkey  a  la  Chipolata, 

Although  this  dish  has  been  degusted  by  our  great  great 
grandfathers,  and  has  been  for  upwards  of  a  century  one  of 
the  strongest  pillars  of  the  art,  I  shall  here  describe  it,  as 
an  old  proverb  justly  reminds  me  that  a  good  thing  can 
never  get  old.  Truss  the  turkey  as  for  boihng,  and  to 
modernize  it,  lard  neatly  the  right  breast,  roast  thirty  good 
chesnuts  which  mix  in  a  basin  with  one  pound  of  sausage- 
meat  highly  seasoned,  stuff  the  breast  of  the  turkey  with  it, 
and  braise  as  in  the  last  article,  when  done  place  it  upon 
yoiu*  dish,  and  have  ready  the  following  ragout :  cut  two 
poimds  of  lean  bacon  in  long  square  pieces  about  the  size 
of  walnuts,  blanch  them  ten  minutes  in  boihng  water,  put 
two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  middling-sized  stewpan,  with  the 
bacon,  fiy  till  becoming  rather  yellowish,  then  add  a  table- 


208  REMOVES. 

spoonful  of  flour,  mix  well,  add  by  degrees  three  pints  of 
good  white  stock,  with  a  quart  of  white  sauce,  stir  over 
the  fire  till  boiling,  then  put  in  forty  button  onions,  twenty 
fine  heads  of  mushrooms,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  one  bay-leaf, 
and  two  cloves ;  boil  altogether,  and  when  the  onions  are 
done  take  them  with  the  mushrooms  and  bacon  out  of  the 
sauce  with  a  colander  spoon,  put  them  into  a  clean  stew- 
pan,  with  thirty  chestnuts  roasted  white,  and  eight  sau- 
sages broiled,  each  one  cut  in  three,  reduce  the  sauce,  keep- 
ing it  stirred  till  it  becomes  the  thickness  of  brown  sauce, 
previously  having  simmered,  and  skimmed  off  all  the 
grease,  pass  the  sauce  through  a  tammie  upon  the  other 
ingredients,  make  all  hot  together,  finish  with  a  Uaison  of 
two  yolks  of  eggs,  and  pour  over  and  round  the  turkey 
(except  o\er  the  breast),  which  serve  very  hot.  The  old 
style  used  to  be  brown,  in  that  case  substitute  brown  saube 
for  white  and  omit  the  liaison. 

No.  513.  Small  Turkey  a  la  DucAesse. 

Procure  a  small  nice  turkey,  truss  it  as  for  boiling, 
and  roast  it  in  vegetables  as  usual,  keeping  it  quite  white, 
place  it  upon  your  dish  with  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes 
round,  upon  which  dress  twenty-five  queneUes  (No.  120), 
and  twelve  slices  of  tongue  (cut  in  the  same  shape  as  the 
quenelles),  have  ready  boiled  very  green  some  French 
beans  cut  in  diamond  shapes,  which  sprinkle  over  the 
breast  of  the  turkey,  and  sauce  over  with  a  puree  de  con- 
combres  (No.  105). 

•  No.  514.  Potdarde  a  V Amba^adrice. 

Procure  a  nice  white  poularde,  cut  it  open  down  the 
back,  and  bone  it  without  breaking  the  skin,  make  two 
pounds  of  forcemeat  (No.  120),  with  which  mix  six  large 
French  trufiles  cut  in  slices,  spread  the  forcemeat  half  an 


REMOVES.  209 

inch  in  thickness  upon  the  inside  of  the  poularde,  then  have 
ready  boiled  and  nicely  trimmed  a  small  ox  tongue,  cover 
it  with  the  forcemeat,  fold  a  slice  of  fat  bacon  round,  and 
put  it  in  the  middle  of  the  poularde,  which  roU  up  and  sew 
from  end  to  end,  fold  the  poularde  in  sUces  of  fat  bacon, 
and  tie  it  up  in  a  cloth,  have  ready  prepared  some  vege- 
tables of  all  kinds  cut  in  sUces,  put  them  in  a  convenient- 
sized  stewpan,  lay  the  poularde  upon  them,  the  breast 
downwards,  but  first  moisten  the  vegetables  mth  a  Uttle 
salad  oil,  add  half  a  pint  of  Madeira  wine,  and  sufficient 
white  broth  to  cover  the  poularde,  set  on  a  sharp  fire  to 
boU,  skim,  and  let  it  simmer  for  three  hours,  prepare  the 
following  garniture :  braise  two  spring  chickens  (trussed  as 
for  boiling)  three  quarters  of  an  hour  in  the  braise  with  the 
poularde,  have  ready  prepared  a  croustade  as  represented 
in  the  design,  upon  which  place  a  larded  sweetbread  nicely 
cooked  and  glazed,  place  a  fine  cockscomb  and  a  large 
truffle  upon  a  silver  attelet,  and  run  it  through  the  sweet- 
bread, sticking  it  upright  in  the  croustade,  then  take  the 
poularde  out  of  the  cloth,  take  off  the  bacon,  pull  out  the 
string  it  was  sewed  up  with,  dry  it  vnth  a  cloth,  and  place 
it  upon  your  dish  with  the  garniture  arranged  tastefully 
around  it ;  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  chop  half  a 
pottle  of  fi'esh  mushrooms  very  fine,  put  them  into  a  stew- 
pan,  with  one  ounce  of  butter  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon, 
boil  over  a  sharp  fire  five  minutes,  add  two  quarts  of  white 
sauce  (No.  7),  with  one  of  the  braise,  let  boil,  keeping  it 
stirred  until  it  adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  rub  it 
through  a  tammie  into  a  clean  stewpan,  adding  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  white  broth  if  too  thick,  season  with  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  sugar  and  a  Uttle  salt,  cut  a  few  very  black 
truffles  in  slices,  and  chop  a  couple  very  fine,  place  them  on 
a  plate  in  the  hot  closet  ten  minutes ;  put  your  sauce  again 
on  the  fire,  and  when  boiling  add  a  gill  of  whipped  cream, 

14 


210  EBMOVSS. 

poiir  the  sauce  over  the  poularde  and  chickens,  lay  the  slices 
of- truffles  here  and  there  upon  them,  and  sprinkle  the 
chopped  truffles  lightly  over,  the  blackness  of  the  truffles 
contrasting  with  the  whiteness  of  the  sauce  has  a  pleasing 
eflFect;  serve  directly  you  have  poured  the  sauce  and 
sprinkled  the  truffles  over.  The  bones  being  taken  out  of 
the  poularde  they  must  be  carved  crosswise,  thus  carving 
through  tongue  and  all. 

No.  515.  Potdardea  en  Diademe, 

Make  a  croustade  representing  a  diadem,  stick  three 
silver  attelets '  upon  it,  on  which  you  have  stuck  a  crawfish, 
a  large  truffle,  and  a  large  quenelle,  roast  two  poulardes 
quite  white  in  vegetables,  and  have  an  ox  tonge  nicely 
boiled  and  trimmed,  place  them  on  the  dish  with  their  tails 
to  the  croustade  and  the  tongue  between ;  upon  the  root  of 
the  tongue  and  at  the  end  of  each  poularde  place  a  nice 
larded  sweetbread  well  cooked  and  glazed  (or  a  fine  head 
of  cauliflower  nicely  boiled),  make  a  border  of  mashed 
potatoes  round,  upon  which  dress  altematdy  truffles  and 
fine  cockscombs,  previously  dressed  (No.  128) ;  have  ready 
the  following  sauce :  peel  four  middling-sized  cucumbers, 
mince  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  an  ounce  of  but- 
ter, a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lean  ham,  two  chopped  escha- 
lots, and  a  little  powdered  sugar,  pass  the  whole  over  a 
slow  fire,  and  stew  them  gently  half  an  hour,  or  till  quite 
tender,  then  mix  in  half  an  oimce  of  flour,  add  two  quarts 
of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  which  moisten  with  a  pint  of  white 
broth,  let  boil  till  it  adheres  to  the  spoon,  stirring  the 
whole  time,  rub  through  a  tammie  and  put  it  into  a  dean 
stewpan,  place  over  the  fire,  and  when  boiling  add  a  gill  (^ 
cream  and  two  pats  of  butter ;  season  with  the  juice  of  a 
lemon,  a  little  salt  and  sugar  if  required ;  pour  the  sauce 
over  the  poulardes  and  cockscombs,   glaze  the  tongue. 


REMOVES.  211 

truffles,  and  sweetbreads  and  serve  immediately;  do  not 
ponr  the  sauce  over  until  quite  ready  to  serve. 

No.  516.  Povlardes  a  la  Ficomtesse. 

Make  a  croustade  as  represented  in  the  plate  (fig.  5)^ 
roast  two  poulardes  in  vegetables  as  in  the  last ;  place  the 
croustade  in  the  middle  of  the  dish,  and  upon  each  gradation 
of  it  stick  an  attelet,  upon  which  you  have  placed  two  plo« 
ver's  eggs  warmed  in  stock ;  place  the  poulardes  on  the 
dish  breast  to  breast,  and  at  the  tail  of  each  lay  three 
larded  lambs'  sweetbreads  (No.  671),  make  a  border  of 
mashed  potatoes  round,  upon  which  dress  slices  of  cooked 
ham  warmed  in  stock,  and  cut  in  the  shape  of  fillets  of 
fowls ;  have  ready  prepared  the  following  sauce :  cut  into 
thin  sUces  a  little  carrot,  turnip,  onion,  and  celery,  put 
them  into  a  stewpan,  with  an  ounce  of  butter,  three  cloves, 
half  a  blade  of  mace,  a  bay-leaf,  a  sprig  of  thyme  and  pars- 
ley, pass  them  over  a  brisk  fire  until  hghtly  browned,  add 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  tarragon  vinegar,  and  one  ditto  of 
connnon  vinegar,  let  boil,  add  two  quarts  of  brown  sauce 
(No.  1),  and  one  of  consomme,  boil  it  twenty  minutes, 
keeping  it  stirred,  pass  it  through  a  tammie  into  a  clean 
stewpan,  add  half  a  pint  of  tomata  sauce  (No.  37),  and  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  red  currant  jelly ;  boil  altogether  till  it 
adheres  to  the  spoon,  season  with  a  httle  salt  and  pepper  if 
required,  sauce  over  the  poulardes,  glaze  the  pieces  of  ham 
and  serve  immediately. 

No.  517.  Poulardes  a  la  Jeanne  SArc, 

Roast  the  poulardes  in  vegetables  as  before,  and  dress 
them  with  croustade,  garniture,  and  sauce  as  desmbed  in 
fillet  of  beef  a  la  Jeanne  d'Arc  (No.  418). 


212  BEMOYES* 


No.  518.  Potdardes  a  la  Jeune  JPrincesse. 

Bone  two  nice  poulardes  as  for  poularde  a  Tambassadrice 
(No.  514),  lay  them  on  a  cloth,  have  ready  prepared  four 
pounds  of  forcemeat  (No.  120),  spread  some  half  an  inch 
in  thickness  over  the  inside  of  the  poulardes ;  have  ready 
boiled  a  Russian  tongue,  which  cut  in  halves  lengthwise^ 
trim  each  half,  lay  one  upon  the  middle  of  each  poularde, 
cut  twelve  pieces  of  fat  bacon  four  inches  in  length  and  the 
thickness  of  your  finger,  lay  three  pieces  upon  each  side  of 
the  tongue  at  equal  distances  apart,  and  between  each  piece 
lay  rows  of  small  very  green  gherkins,  season  with  a  little 
salt  and  pepper,  cover  with  a  little  more  of  the  forcemeat^ 
roll  and  sew  up  the  poulardes,  tie  them  in  cloths  and  braise 
two  hours,  as  directed  for  poulardes  a  Tambassadrice ;  when 
done  take  them  out  of  the  cloths,  pull  out  the  packthread 
you  sewed  them  up  with,  dress  them  on  your  dish  in  a 
slanting  direction,  make  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes  round, 
have  ready  twenty  small  croustades  de  beurre  a  la  puree  de 
volaille  (No.  405),  which  dress  upon  the  mashed  potatoes 
at  equal  distances  apart,  and  upon  the  top  of  each  place  a 
plover's  egg  (firom  which  you  have  peeled  off  all  the  shell) 
warmed  in  broth,  between  each  croustade  lay  small  bunches 
of  asparagus  (previoiisly  boiled),  cut  an  inch  and  a  half  in 
length,  and  six  or  eight  in  a  bunch ;  have  ready  the  follow- 
ing sauce :  put  three  quarts  of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  and  one 
of  white  stock  in  a  stewpan,  the  sauce  strongly  flavoured 
with  mushrooms,  place  it  over  the  fire,  keep  stirring,  reduce 
to  two-thirds,  add  a  gill  of  whipped  cream,  season  with  a 
little  salt  and  sugar  if  required ;  pour  the  sauce  over  the 
poulardes,  and  upon  the  breast  of  each  sprinkle  a  few  heads 
of  sprue  grass  nicely  boiled  and  cut  veiy  small ;  in  carving 
they  must  be  cut  across,  it  will  resemble  marble. 


.UEMOVES.  213 


No.  519.  Poulardes  a  la  Financiere. 

Boast  two  poulardes  in  vegetables  as  usual ;  have  ready 
boiled  two  ox  tongues,  trim  them,  nicely  cutting  off  part  of 
the  tip ;  when  the  poulardes  are  done  dress  them  up  on  your 
dish  tail  to  tail,  dress  the  two  tongues  crosswise,  that  is,  the 
tips  of  the  tongues  touching  the  tails  of  the  poulardes,  have 
a  very  fine  larded  sweetbread  nicely  cooked  and  glazed, 
which  place  in  the  centre  (this  way  of  dishing  them  is  very 
simple  but  very  elegant) ;  have  ready  the  following  ragout : 
put  twenty  dressed  cockscombs,  twenty  heads  of  mush- 
rooms, four  truffles  cut  in  shoes,  twelve  pieces  of  sweetbread 
the  size  of  half-crowns  (well  blanched),  and  twenty  small 
quenelles  (No.  120),  in  a  stewpan,  in  another  stewpan  put 
two  glasses  of  sherry,  half  an  ounce  of  glaze,  a  httle  cayenne 
pepper,  and  a  bay-leaf;  reduce  to  half  over  a  good  fire, 
then  add  three  quarts  of  espagnole  or  brown  sauce  (No.  1), 
and  twenty  spoonfuls  of  consonmie  (No.  134),  boil  and 
skim,  reduce,  keeping  it  stirred  till  it  becomes  a  good  demi- 
glace  and  adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  pass  it  through 
a  tammie  into  the  stewpan  containing  the  garniture,  add  a 
httle  powdered  sugar,  make  all  hot  together,  pour  over  and 
round  the  poulardes,  glaze  the  tongues  and  serve. 

No.  520.  Potdardea  a  la  Warsovienne. 

Roast  two  large  poulardes  in  vegetables,  and  let  them 
get  cold,  then  take  all  the  meat  from  the  breast,  but  be 
careful  to  leave  a  rim  half  an  inch  in  thickness,  cut  up  the 
flesh  in  small  dice,  put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  fifteen  spoon- 
fuls of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  two  truffles  cut  in  shces,  and 
twelve  pieces  of  stewed  cucumber  (No.  103) ;  season  with  a 
little  sugar,  salt,  and  a  very  httle  grated  nutmeg ;  stir  all 
veiy  gently  over  the  fire  (being  careful  not  to  bre^^k  the 


214  REMOVES.^ 

pieces  of  cucumber),  when  it  boils  add  the  yolks  of  t^^o 
eggs  mixed  with  two  spoonfuls  of  cream,  stir  them   in 
quickly ;  have  ready  warmed  in  stock  the  carcasses  of  the 
poulardes,  place  the  mince  in  the  breasts,  egg  over,  and 
bread-crumb  round  the  rims,  place  them  in  the  oven  twenty 
minutes  to  set,  then  dress  them  breast  to  breast  on  your 
dish ;  poach  twelve  plovers'  eggs  very  nicely,  lay  six  upon 
each  poularde,  that  is,  three  upon  each  side  of  the  breast  to 
form  a  diamond,  then  place  a  small  larded  lamb's  sweet-* 
bread  upon  the  top  between  the  two  poulardes  and  in  the 
centre  of  the  eggs,  place  a  fine  cauliflower  on  each  side, 
and  sauce  over  with  a  sauce  bechamel,  or  maatre  d'hotel 
(No.  43) ;  glaze  the  sweetbread  and  serve. 

No.  521.  PoulardeB  aux  leptmes printaniers. 

Roast  two  poulardes  in  vegetables  as  before,  then  with  a 
shai'p  knife  turn  forty  yoimg  carrots  and  forty  young  tur- 
nips, keeping  them  in  their  shape  as  much  as  possible, 
wash  and  place  them  in  separate  stewpans,  with  a  pint  of 
veal  stock  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  boil  until  the 
stock  is  reduced  to  glaze,  by  which  time  they  wiU  be  well 
done,  place  them  in  a  bain  marie  to  keep  hot,  peel  also 
forty  young  onions  the  same  size  as  your  turnips,  butter  a 
saute-pan,  put  in  half  an  ounce  of  sugar  (sifted),  over 
which  place  the  onions,  cover  with  veal  stock  and  let  them 
stew  until  the  stock  forms  a  thickish  glaze,  place  them  in 
the  hot  closet  until  wanted,  then  take  up  the  poulardes,  dress 
tail  to  tail  on  your  dish,  make  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes 
round,  and  at  each  end  place  a  fine  head  of  cauliflower 
nicely  boiled,  then  place  alternately  an  onion  and  a  turnip 
with  a  carrot  upon  the  top  between,  making  a  pyramid  in 
the  middle  of  the  border  on  each  side ;  for  sauce  put  the 
glaze  from  the  vegetables  and  onions  into  a  stewpan  to- 
gether, boil  and  skim  off  all  the  butter,  add  two  quarts  of 


REMOVES.  215 

biowii  sauce,  reduce  quickly,  keeping  it  stirred  all  the  time, 
itntil  it  adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  add  a  little  salt  if 
required ;  pour  the  sauce  over  the  whole  and  serve. 

No.  522.  Poidardes  aux  legumes  verts. 

Boast  the  poulardes  in  vegetables  as  usual,  then  take  ten 
krge  turnips,  cut  each  in  halves  exactly  in  the  centre,  peel 
them  thin  without  leaving  the  marks  of  the  knife,  and 
scoop  out  the  centres  to  form  them  into  cups,  with  a  round 
cutter  the  size  of  half-a-crown-piece,  cut  twenty  pieces  of 
turnip  one  inch  in  thickness  to  form  stands,  stew  them 
nicely  in  stock  as  in  the  last,  but  not  too  much  done,  and 
place  them  in  the  bain  marie  till  ready  to  serve,  then  place 
a  border  of  mashed  potatoes  round  the  interior  of  the  dish, 
leaving  sufficient  room  for  your  poulardes,  and  at  each  end 
stick  a  croustade  of  bread  cut  in  cups  but  larger  than  those 
of  turnips,  place  the  turnip  cups  upon  their  stands  at  equal 
distances  apart  upon  the  mashed  potatoes,  place  a  nice  head 
of  cauliflower  upon  each  croustade,  have  ready  boiled  some 
very  young  peas  and  heads  of  asparagus,  fill  the  cups  alter- 
nately with  each,  place  your  poulardes  in  the  centre,  and  have 
ready  the  following  sauce :  put  two  quarts  of  white  sauce 
(No,  7)  and  a  pint  of  white  stock  in  a  stewpan,  with  the 
glaze  from  the  turnips,  reduce  to  two-thu'ds,  skim,  season 
with  a  Uttle  salt  and  sugar,  finish  with  a  gill  of  cream, 
sauce  all  over,  but  lightly  over  the  vegetables,  and  serve. 

Capons  may  of  course  be  dressed  in  the  same  manner  as 
poulardes  for  removes,  but  to  give  a  second  series  would 
only  be  a  useless  repetition. 

No.  523.  Petits  Potdets  a  la  Warenzorf. 

Procure  four  very  nice  spring  chickens  trussed  as  for 
boiling,  roast  them  in  vegetables,  as  described  (No.  417), 
have  also  ready  boiled  and  nicely  trimmed  two  deer  tongues, 


216  REMOVES. 

place  one  at  each  end  of  the  dish  making  the  tips  meet  in 
the  centre,  place  a  chicken  at  each  comer,  its  tail  in  the 
centre,  and  between  each  lay  a  bunch  of  fine  boiled  aspa- 
ragus ;  you  have  made  a  round  fluted  croustade  of  bread 
about  four  inches  high,  and  the  same  in  diameter,  ornament 
it  on  the  top  with  rings  the  size  of  a  shilling,  fried  very 
white,  and  scoop  out  the  middle  of  the  croustade  to  form  a 
cup ;  place  it  in  the  centre  of  your  dish,  with  some  fine 
heads  of  asparagus  cut  about  four  inches  in  length  standing 
upright  in  it,  glaze  the  tongues  nicely,  have  two  quarts  of 
sauce  puree  d'asperges  (No.  102)  ready,  which  pour  over 
the  chickens  and  serve  very  hot. 

No.  524.  Petits  Potdets  a  la  Perigord  a  hlanc. 

Scrape  four  ounces  of  fat  bacon,  which  put  into  a  stew- 
pan,  with  two  bay-leaves,  three  cloves,  and  a  blade  of  mace, 
set  over  the  fire  to  melt,  and  when  quite  hot  take  out  the 
spice  and  bay-leaves,  add  ten  larse  truffles  cut  in  slices,  and 
fL  chopped  very  fine,  with  a  quart  of  white  sauce  (No.  7). 
place  it  over  the  fire  to  reduce,  keeping  it  stirred  until 
becoming  very  thick,  finish  with  two  yolks  of  eggs  and 
place  it  on  a  dish  to  cool ;  procure  four  nice  spring  chickens, 
detach  the  skin  fix)m  the  breasts  without  breaking,  force 
the  above  preparation  under  the  skins,  sew  the  skin  down 
(but  not  too  tight,  or  it  would  burst  in  roasting),  roast  them 
in  vegetables  as  usual ;  have  ready  a  croustade  in  the  form 
of  a  vase,  which  place  in  the  centre  of  your  dish  filled  with 
fine  truffles  warmed  in  strong  stock,  dress  the  chickens  with 
taste  around  it,  first  draining  them  upon  a  cloth,  glaze 
Ughtly,  and  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  put  two  quarts 
of  white  sauce  (No.  7)  into  a  stev^^an,  with  a  pint  of  good 
veal  broth,  place  it  on  the  fire  and  when  boiling  add  six 
large  French  truffles  cut  in  thin  slices,  and  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  sugaa-,  reduce,   keeping  it  stirred  until  becoming 


RIMOYES.  217 

thickish,  add  half  a  gill  of  whipped  cream ;  pour  the  sauce 
round  the  chickens  and  serve  very  hot. 

No.  525.  Peiits  Poulets  a  la  Macedoine  de  legumes. 

Procure  four  spring  chickens,  roast  them  in  vegetables, 
but  just  before  they  are  done  take  off  all  the  paper  and 
vegetables  and  let  them  get  a  nice  gold  colour ;  prepare  and 
poach  a  piece  of  forcemeat  (No.  120)  four  inches  square, 
and  another  two  inches  square,  place  the  smaller  one  upon 
the  larger  in  the  centre  of  the  dish,  dress  the  chickens  by 
placing  the  taik  upon  the  forcemeat  and  the  breasts  towards 
the  edges  of  the  dish;  you  have  previously  peeled  and 
turned  twelve  Jerusalem  artichokes  in  the  shape  of  pears, 
and  stewed  in  white  stock,  place  three  at  the  breast  of  each 
chicken,  and  a  piece  of  boiled  cauliflower  between  each  at 
the  tail,  build  some  Brussels  sprouts  pyramidically  at  the 
top,  and  sauce  with  macedoine  de  legumes  a  brun  (No.  99). 

Fowk  may  be  dressed  in  the  same  manner  as  the  chickens 
and  are  used  when  chickens  cannot  be  obtained. 

No.  526.  Petits  Poideta  a  VIndienne. 

Put  one  pound  of  rice  nicely  boiled  (No.  129)  in  a  basin 
with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  suet,  a  little  pepper,  salt, 
cayenne,  grated  nutmeg,  chopped  parsley,  two  spoonfuls  of 
bread-crumbs,  one  of  currie  powder,  and  three  or  four  eggs, 
mix  all  well  together,  then  have  four  spring  chickens  un- 
trussed,  fill  them  with  the  above,  and  truss  them  as  for 
boiling,  stew  them  one  hour  gently  iii  a  braise  as  No.  514, 
make  a  round  croustade  of  the  form  of  a  cup,  five  inches 
high,  fill  with  some  beautiful  white  rice  in  pyramid,  with 
seven  or  eight  mild  Indian  pickles  interspersed,  dress  the 
chickens  round  the  croustade,  with  a  piece  of  boiled  bacon 
three  inches  long  and  two  broad  between  each,  pour  about 
two  quarts  of  sauce  a  I'lndienne  (No.  45)  over,  and  serve 
very  hot. 


218  REVOVIS. 

No.  527.  Petits  Poulets  aujus  cTestragfon. 

Roast  three  spring  chickens  in  vegetables,  the  same  as 
for  petits  poulets  a  la  macedoine  de  legumes,  dress  them  on 
your  dish,  and  pour  a  sauce  au  jus  d'estragon  (No.  10) 
round. 

No.  628.  Petits  Potdets  a  la  Marie  Stuart. 

Procure  four  spring  chickens  trussed  as  for  boiling, 
detach  carefully  part  of  the  skin  from  the  breasts,  and  lay 
slices  of  French  truffles  under  the  skin,  shaping  a  heart 
upon  the  breasts  of  each,  prepare  half  a  pound  of  maitre 
d'hotel  butter  (No.  79),  divide  it  in  four  parts,  and  place 
one  on  the  top  of  the  truffles  under  the  skin  of  each  breast, 
covering  with  the  skin,  then  put  half  a  pound  of  butter, 
two  onions,  two  bay-leaves,  and  two  wine-glasses  of  pale 
brandy,  with  a  little  stock  into  a  flat  stewpan,  lay  in  the 
chickens,  place  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper  over,  put  on  the 
cover,  place  it  ten  minutes  over  a  sharp  fire,  then  set  in 
a  moderate  oven  for  an  hour,  when  done  take  out  the  string, 
lay  them  on  a  clean  cloth  to  drain ;  have  ready  a  croustade 
in  the  form  of  a  pyramid,  which  place  in  the  centre  of  your 
dish  entirely  enveloped  with  mashed  potatoes  half  an  inch  in 
thickness  ;  have  ready  some  fine  heads  of  asparagus  boiled 
very  green,  and  cut  about  an  inch  in  length,  stick  them 
upon  the  pyramid  with  a  small  nice  white  head  of  cauli- 
flower at  the  top,  dish  your  chickens  roimd  and  sauce  with 
a  thin  puree  of  truffles  (No.  53)  round  them. 

No.  629.  Petits  Pomsins  a  la  Chanoinaise. 

Have  ready  three  parts  roasted  in  vegetables  six  very  young 
spring  chickens  trussed  as  for  boiling,  cover  them  all  over 
with  forcemeat  (No.  120),  throw  some  chopped  truffles  and 
ham  lightly  over,  and  put  them  into  a  flat  stewpan  just  co- 


RIHOVSS.  219 

vered  with  some  good  veal  stock,  set  them  in  a  moderate  oven 
twenty  minutes,  with  the  cover  over,  and  when  done  dress 
them  at  the  comers  of  the  dish  upon  a  little  mashed  pota- 
toes, place  a  small  croustade  in  the  centre,  upon  which 
place  a  nicely-cooked  larded  sweetbread,  glaze  well,  and 
have  ready  the  following  sauce :  put  two  quarts  of  demi- 
glace  (No.  9)  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  little  sugar,  and  when 
boiling  have  ready  a  tongue  (ready  boiled)  cut  in  slices  the 
size  of  half-a-crown-piece,  and  six  large  truffles  also  shced, 
put  them  into  the  sauce,  and  when  very  hot  pour  into  your 
dish,  but  not  over  the  chickens ;  serve  very  hot. 

No.  630.  Petite  Pouleta  a  la  JPrinianiere. 

Roast  four  spring  chickens  in  vegetables,  have  ready  some 
young  carrots,  turnips,  and  onions,  stewed  as  directed 
(No.  428) ;  make  a  small  border  of  mashed  potatoes  round 
the  dish,  dress  the  vegetables  with  taste  upon  it,  variegating 
them  with  peas  or  asparagus  heads  boiled  very  green,  dress 
the  chickens  in  the  centre  and  have  ready  the  following 
sauce :  put  two  quarts  of  demi-glace  (No.  9)  into  a  stewpan, 
reduce  well  over  the  fire,  keeping  it  stirred,  add  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  sugar  and  the  glaze  from  the  vegetables,  reduce 
again  till  it  adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  pour  over  the 
chickens  and  vegetables,  and  serve  very  hot. 

No.  531.  Petits  Pov^sina  a  la  Tartar e. 

Procure  four  very  young  spring  chickens,  not  trussed,  cut 
off  the  feet  below  the  joints,  break  the  bone  in  each  leg,  then 
cut  an  incision  in  the  thigh  of  the  chicken  and  turn  the  legs 
into  it,  cut  the  chickens  open  down  the  back-bone,  and  beat 
them  flat,  fry  five  minutes  in  butter  in  a  saute-pan,  season 
with  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  egg  and  bread-crumb  them 
all  over,  lay  them  on  a  gridiron  over  a  moderate  fire,  and 
broil  a  nice  light-brown  colour ;  for  sauce  put  ten  table- 


220  REMOVES. 

spoonfuls  of  white  sauce  (No.  7)  and  six  of  oonsonune  in  a 
stewpan^  and  when  it  has  boiled  ten  minutes  add  ten  spoon- 
fuls of  sauce  tartare  (No.  88),  stir  altogether  till  quite  hot* 
but  do  not  let  it  boil,  pour  it  on  your  dish,  garnish  the 
edges  of  the  dish  with  slices  of  Indian  pickle,  dress  the 
chickens  upon  the  sauce  and  serve  directly ;  the  sauce  tar- 
tare may  edso  be  served  cold  with  the  chickens  glazed  and 
served  hot  upon  it. 

No.  532.  Petita  Poumna  a  la  Mareckal. 

Truss  and  broil  four  chickens  precisely  as  in  the  last,  and 
have  ready  the  following  sauce :  put  three  tablespoonfiils  of 
tarragon  vinegar  into  a  stewpaa,  with  a  small  piece  of  glaze, 
half  a  pint  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1),  and  twenty  tablespoon- 
fills  of  consomme  (No.  134),  reduce  ten  minutes  until  form- 
ing a  demi-glace,  pour  the  sauce  in  the  dish, ,  glaze  the 
chickens,  dish  them  upon  the  sauce  and  serve. 

No.  533.   Goose  a  la  Chipolata, 

Truss  your  goose  nicely,  and  lard  the  breast  (with  lardons 
of  fat  bacon  three  inches  long)  here  and  there  slantwise, 
then  proceed  exactly  as  for  turkey  a  la  chipolata  (No.  512). 

m 

No.  534.  Goose  stuffed  toith  chesnuts. 

Procure  a  fine  goose,  truss  it,  chop  the  liver  very  fine, 
cut  an  onion  in  small  dice,  put  them  in  a  stewpan,  with 
the  liver,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  scraped  fat  bacon, 
pass  them  over  a  slow  fire  for  ten  minutes  or  a  little  longer, 
have  ready  roasted  and  peeled  thirty  fine  chesnuts,  put  them 
in  the  stewpan,  with  two  bay-leaves,  let  them  stew  slowly 
over  the  fire  half  an  hour,  season  with  pepper,  salt,  and 
sugar,  and  when  nearly  cold  stuff  the  inside  of  the  goose, 
which  sew  up  at  both  ends ;  roast  an  hour  and  a  half  in 
vegetables,  and  just  before  it  is  done  take  away  the  paper 


RSM0VE8.  221 

and  vegetables  and  let  it  get  a  nice  light-brown  colour, 
dress  on  a  dish  and  serve  a  sauce  au  jus  de  tomates  (No. 
12),  in  which  you  have  introduced  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
apple  jelly ;  a  little  sage  may  be  added  to  the  above  prepa- 
ration if  approved  of. 

No.  586.  Goose  a  la  PortugaUe. 

Prepare  your  goose,  then  peel  four  Portugal  onions,  cut 
fliem  in  thin  sUces  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  a 
quarter  of  a  poimd  of  butter ;  let  them  simmer  over  a  slow 
fire  until  quite  tender,  then  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  a 
little  pepper,  salt,  grated  nutmeg,  and  sugar,  with  half  a 
pint  of  white  sauce  (No.  7) ;  boil  altogether  twenty  minutes, 
then  stir  in  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  and  put  it  out  on  a  dish 
to  cool,  stuff  the  goose  with  it,  which  roast  as  in  the  last, 
dress  upon  your  dish  ¥dth  ten  stewed  Portugal  onions  and 
sauce  as  directed  for  stewed  rump  of  beef  a  la  Portugaise 
(No.  431). 

No.  686.  BucJdings  aux  olives. 

Roast  four  small  duddings  in  vegetables ;  have  ready  a 
croustade  cut  in  the  shape  of  a  vase,  set  it  on  a  few  mashed 
potatoes  in  the  centre  of  the  dish,  dress  the  ducklings  with 
their  tails  towards  it,  and  have  ready  the  following  sauce : 
put  two  quarts  of  demi-glace  (No.  9)  in  a  stewpan,  when  it 
boik  have  ready  turned  sixty  French  oUves,  which  throw 
into  it,  season  with  half  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  when  very 
hot  put  the  olives  on  the  top  of  the  croustade,  poiu:  the 
sauce  over  and  serve  directly. 

No.  587.  Ducklings  aujus  d' orange. 

IU)ast  four  ducklings  as  in  the  previous  article,  dress  a 
croustade  in  the  centre  of  the  dish,  upon  which  place  a 
fine  Seville  orange  with  a  silver  attelet  through  it,  dress  the 


222  REMOVSS. 

ducklings  rotmd,  and  serve  with  a  jus  d'orange 

(No.  17). 

No.  538.  BuoUings  aux  legvme^ prinianiers. 

Roast  them  as  above,  and  serve  as  directed  for  the  poa- 
lardes  (No.  621). 

No.  539.  JDuddingB  a  la  Chartre. 

Roast  your  ducklings  as  before,  have  ready  fifty  young 
turnips  turned  in  the  shape  of  pears,  put  half  an  ounce  of 
sifted  sugar  into  a  convenient-sized  stewpan,  set  over  the 
fire,  and  when  it  melts  and  assumes  a  brownish  tinge  add 
half  a  pound  of  butter  and  the  turnips,  toss  them  over  every 
now  and  then,  and  when  about  three  parts  done  and  a 
light-brown  colour  turn  them  out  on  a  cloth  to  drain  the 
butter  firom  them,  likewise  drain  all  the  butter  fi*om  the 
stewpan,  put  your  turnips  again  into  it,  with  a  quart  of 
brovm  sauce  (No.  1),  half  a  pint  of  white  stock,  and  a 
bunch  of  parsley,  boil  altogether  ten  minutes,  or  till  the 
sauce  adheres  to  the  spoon,  dress  a  croustade  in  the  form 
of  a  vase  in  the  centre  of  the  dish,  dress  the  ducklings 
round,  take  the  parsley  from  the  sauce,  dress  some  of  the 
turnips  with  taste  upon  the  croustade  and  the  remainder 
between  each  duckhng ;  pour  the  sauce  round  and  serve. 

No.  540.  Haunch  of  Venison. 

May  be  decidedly  called  the  second  great  pedestal; 
turtle  soup  and  haunch  of  venison  certainly  being  the  two 
great  pedestals,  or  Gog  and  Magog  of  English  cookery. 
It  is  appreciated  from  the  independent  citizen  to  the  throne ; 
for  where  is  there  a  citizen  of  taste,  a  man  of  wealth,  or  a 
gourmet,  who  does  not  pay  due  homage  to  this  ddicious 
and  recherche  joint,  which  ever  has  and  ever  will  be  in 
vogue ;  but  even  aft^  all  that  nature  has  done  in  point  of 


UBMOVES.  223 

flavour^  should  it  fall  into  the  hands  of  some  inexperienced 
person  to  dress,  and  be  too  much  done,  its  appearance  and 
flavour  would  be  entirely  spoilt,  its  delicious  and  delicate 
fat  melted,  and  the  gravy  lost ;  of  the  two  it  would  be  pre- 
ferred underdone,  but  that  is  very  bad  and  hardly  excus- 
able, when  it  requires  nothing  but  attention  to  serve  this 
glorious  dish  in  perfection. 

A  good  haunch  of  venison  weighing  from  about  twenty 
to  twenty-five  pounds  will  take  from  three  to  four  hours 
roasting  before  a  good  soUd  fire ;  trim  the  haunch  by  cutting 
off  part  of  the  knuckle  and  sawing  off  the  chine  bone,  fold 
the  flap  over,  then  envelope  it  in  a  flour  and  water  paste 
rather  stiff,  and  an  inch  thick,  tie  it  up  in  strong  paper, 
four  sheets  in  thickness,  place  it  in  your  cradle  spit  so  that 
it  will  turn  quite  even,  place  it  at  first  very  close  to  the  fire 
until  the  paste  is  well  crusted,  pouring  a  few  ladlefuls  of 
hot  dripping  over  occasionally  to  prevent  the  paper  catching 
fire,  then  put  it  rather  further  from  the  fire,  which  must  be 
quite  clear,  solid,  and  have  sufficient  frontage  to  throw  the 
same  heat  on  every  part  oi  the  venison ;  when  it  has  roasted 
the  above  time  take  it  up,  remove  it  from  the  paste  and 
paper,  ran  a  thin  skewer  into  the  thickest  part  to  ascertain 
if  done,  if  it  resists  the  skewer  it  is  not  done,  and  must  be 
tied  up  and  put  down  again,  but  if  the  fire  is  good  that 
time  will  sufficiently  cook  it,  glaze  the  top  well,  salamander 
until  a  little  brown,  put  a  frill  upon  the  knuckle,  and  serve 
very  hot  with  plenty  of  plain  boiled  French  beans  separate. 
For  the  mode  of  carving  a  haunch  of  venison,  see  preface. 

No.  541.  JETauncA  of  Doe  Venison  a  la  Corinthienne. 

Trim  your  haunch  and  lard  the  fillet  of  the  bin  and  the 
leg  as  you  would  a  Mcandeau,  put  it  for  a  week  in  a  mari- 
nade (No.  426),  turning  it  over  every  othCT  day ;  place  it 
on  a  spit,  tied  up  in  oiled  paper,  and  roast  it  two  hours. 


224  BEMOVES. 

but  just  before  taking  up,  take  off  all  the  paper,  to  give  a 
nice  colour ;  dress  it  on  your  dish  with  a  frill  at  the  knuckle, 
and  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  well  wash  and  pick 
half  a  pound  of  fine  currants,  soak  them  in  water  two  hours, 
dry  them  well  on  a  sieve,  put  half  a  pint  of  the  marinade 
through  a  sieve  into  a  stewpan,  with  two  glasses  of  port 
wine,  and  two  chopped  eschalots,  reduce  to  half,  add  a 
quart  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1),  reduce  till  it  adheres  to  the 
back  of  the  spoon,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  currant  jelly,  pass 
it  through  a  tammie  into  another  stewpan,  add  your  cur- 
rants, season  with  a  little  cayenne  pepper,  and  salt  if  re* 
quired,  pour  the  sauce  round  the  haunch,  and  serve. 

No.  642.  Necka  of  Doe  Venison  a  la  CorintMenne. 

Trim  two  necks  of  venison  by  cutting  out  the  shoulders, 
not  too  deep,  cut  the  breast  off  rather  narrow,  slip  your 
knife  between  the  rib  bones  and  the  flesh  to  half  way  up, 
saw  off  the  bones,  skewer  the  flap  over,  detach  the  chine 
bones  from  the  flesh,  saw  them  off,  and  lard  the  fillets ;  put 
them  in  marinade  (No.  426)  one  day  (they  must  be  weU 
covered),  tie  them  up  in  oiled  paper,  and  roast  for  one 
hour;  when  done  glaze  and  salamander  the  tops,  dress 
them  fillet  to  fillet  on  your  dish,  and  sauce  the  same  as  for 
haunch  a  la  Ciorinthienne. 

No.  543.  Necis  of  Venison  a  la  Bohemienne. 

Proceed  as  above,  and  sauce  as  for  fillet  of  beef  a  la 
Bohemienne  (No.  426.) 

No.  544.  Faisans  a  la  Coraaire. 

Procure  three  young  pheasants,  truss  them  as  for  boiling, 
chop  the  livers  very  fine,  and  put  them  into  a  basin  with  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  chopped  suet,  one  pound  of  bread- 
crumbs, a  little  pepper,  salt,  grated  nutmeg,  chopped  parsley, 


REMOVES.  225 

and  thyme ;  mix  the  whole  well  together  with  four  eggs, 
put  m  a  mortar,  pound  it  well,  stuff  the  birds  with  it,  and 
roast  them  in  vegetables ;  make  a  croustade  shaped  like  the 
bows  of  a  ship,  dress  it  at  the  head  of  the  dish,  make  a 
large  quenelle  (No.  120),  which  ornament  with  truffles  to 
fancy ;  run  a  silver  attelet  through  it  lengthwise,  and  stick 
it  at  the  top  of  the  croustade,  dress  the  pheasants  on  the 
dish,  the  tails  of  two  of  them  touching  the  croustade,  and 
the  other  between,  with  its  breast  towards  the  end  of  the 
dish ;  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  put  two  quarts  of 
the  sauce  a  Tessence  de  gibier  (No.  60)  in  a  stewpan, 
with  half  a  pint  of  white  broth;  reduce  till  it  adheres 
to  the  spoon,  then  add  twenty  dressed  cockscombs  and 
twenty  heads  of  mushrooms ;  sauce  over  the  pheasants  and 
serve. 

No.  545.  Faisana  a  la  Garde  Chaase. 

Procure  four  very  young  hen  pheasants^  truss  them  for 
roasting,  merely  cut  off  the  tips  of  the  claws,  make  a  small 
incision  in  the  leg  at  the  knuckles,  and  truss  them  with 
their  claws  resting  on  their  thighs,  and  their  knuckles  over 
their  tails ;  stuff  them  with  the  same  preparation  as  in  the 
last^  but  adding  a  glass  of  brandy  and  half  a  gill  of  double 
cream ;  put  them  on  your  spit,  have  ready  washed  and  cut 
firom  the  roots  a  few  good  handfuls  of  heather  from  the 
mountain,  surround  the  birds  with  it,  and  tie  them  in  oiled 
paper ;  roast  them  three  quarters  of  an  hour,  take  them  up, 
and  dress  them  on  your  dish  in  the  form  of  a  cross ;  have 
four  large  quenelles  of  game  (No.  123),  and  place  one  be- 
tween each  pheasant ;  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  put 
two  glasses  of  port  wine  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  teaspoonful 
of  sugar,  and  an  oimce  of  glaze ;  boil  three  minutes,  then 
add  a  quart  of  the  sauce  a  Tessence  de  gibier  (No.  60) ; 
boil  altogether  ten  minutes,  skim,  add  two  ounces  of  fr^sh 

15 


226  REMOVES. 

butter,  stir  it  in  with  a  wooden  spoon ;  when  quite  melted 
pour  the  sauce  over  the  birds,  and  serve. 

No.  546.  Ftmam  truffea  a  la  Pietnontaise. 

Procure  foiur  young  pheasants  as  above,  but  they  must 
be  quite  fresh,  stuff  the  breasts  of  them  with  half  a  pound 
of  truffles  prepared  as  for  poularde  a  la  Perigord  (No.  524), 
only  using  half  oil  and  half  bacon,  and  adding  half  a  dove 
of  garlic  scraped ;  show  as  much  truffles  as  possible  under 
the  skin ;  they  must  be  kept  in  that  way  a  week  or  more 
(according  to  the  weather),  before  they  are  fit  for  dressing ; 
roast  nearly  an  hour  in  oiled  paper  of  a  light  gold  colour, 
dress  upon  your  dish  in  the  form  of  a  cross,  have  ready  the 
following  sauce :  put  two  quarts  of  clear  aspic  (No.  1360) 
in  a  stewpan,  reduce  twenty  minutes,  cut  six  raw  or  pre- 
served truffles  in  slices,  put  them  into  the  aspic  with  a  glass  of 
champagne,  hock,  or  madeira,  and  a  Uttle  sugar ;  stew  them 
twenty  minutes,  sauce  over  your  birds,  and  serve  very  hot. 

No.  547.  FcMons  a  V Extravagante. 

This  is  a  very  elegant  remove,  and  can  be  made  where 
woodcocks  are  plentiful,  but  to  the  economiser  it  would  ap- 
pear a  most  extravagant  extravaganza;  procure  two  large 
pheasants  and  six  woodcocks,  fillet  the  woodcocks  and  cut 
each  fillet  in  halves  lengthwise,  put  two  ounces  of  scraped 
bacon  in  a  sautepan  with  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  es- 
chalots and  half  a  pottle  of  chopped  mushrooms ;  lay  the 
fillets  over  them,  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  set  them 
over  the  fire  five  minutes,  turn  the  fillets,  set  them  again 
on  the  fire  five  minutes  longer,  add  twenty  tablespoonfuls 
of  bechamel  sauce  (No.  7),  half  a  pound  of  cockscombs  pre- 
viously cooked,  a  Uttle  grated  nutmeg,  and  half  a  spoonAil 
of  sugar;  it  must  be  rather  highly  seasoned;  add  three 
yolks  of  eggs,  stir  a  minute  over  the  fire  till  the  egg  sets. 


REMOVES.  227 

then  put  it  on  a  dish  to  cool ;  when  firm  divide  it  in  two, 
and  stuff  the  pheasants  with  it,  having  previously  extracted 
all  the  breast  bone,  sew  the  skin  of  the  neck  over  on  the 
back,  but  do  not  draw  it  too  tight,  or  it  would  burst  on  the 
breast;   surround  with  fat  bacon,  and  tie  them  in  oiled 
paper ;  roast  them  one  hour,  but  just  before  they  are  done 
take  off  the  paper  and  bacon ;  shake  flour  over,  and  they 
will  become  brown  and  crisp ;  have  ready  prepared  the  fol- 
lowing sauce:  put  the  remainder  of  the  woodcocks  in  a 
stewpan,  with  two  glasses  of  sheny,  a  pint  of  white  stock, 
two  eschalots  (cut  in  sMced),  a  httle  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay- 
leaf,  two  cloves,  and  half  a  blade  of  mace,  let  simmer  a 
quarter  of  an  hour,  add  a  quart  of  brown  sauce,  let  the 
whole  boil  together  twenty  minutes  at  the  comer  of  the 
stove,  take  out  the  pieces  of  woodcock,  and  pass  the  sauce 
through  a  tanunie  into  a  clean  stewpan,  take  the  flesh  and 
trails  of  the  woodcocks  from  the  bones,  which  pound  well 
in  the  mortar,  then  put  it  in  the  sauce,  boil  it  up  again, 
season  with  a  little  pepper,  salt,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
sugar,  and  rub  it  through  a  tammie  with  two  wooden 
spoons,  the  sauce  is  then  ready;  for  garniture  cut  twenty- 
four  pieces  of  bread  in  the  form  of  hearts,  cover  them  on 
one  side  with  forcemeat  (Nol23)  rather  thick  in  the  middle, 
and  fix  a  cockscomb  ready  dressed  upon  each;  butter  a 
saute-pan,  and  lay  them  in  it ;  cover  them  over  with  a  sheet 
of  buttered  paper,  and  place  them  half  an  hour  in  a  mode- 
rate oven;  make  a  border  of  forcemeat  (No.  120),  poached 
in  pieces  an  inch  broad  and  half  an  inch  thick,  which  lay 
on  your  dish,  upon  which  dress  them,  place  the  pheasants 
in  the  centre,  pour  the  sauce  round,  glaze  the  birds  and 
cockscombs,  and  serve. 

The  way  to  carve  pheasants  dressed  this  way  is  as  follows : 
the  breast  being  free  from  bone,  detach  the  legs  with  a 
knife,  and  cut  the  breast  in  slices  in  a  slanting  direction ; 


228  REMOVES. 

the  scraped  bacon  will  escape  in  roasting,  keeping  the  birds 
moist ;  they  will  not  cut  greasy^  but  will  have  a  marbled 
appearance  hke  gallantine. 

No.  548.  Grome  a  la  Bob  Boy. 

Grouse  are  the  most  favourite  birds  in  this  country,  and 
certainly  the  most  welcome ;  they  make  their  first  appear- 
ance on  the  12th  of  August,  a  time  when  most  delicate 
palates  are  fatigued  with  domestic  volatile  productions,  at 
that  period  they  are  very  properly  used  for  roasts  only ;  but 
when  more  plentiful  they  are  very  excellent  dressed  in  the 
manners  I  have  here  described,  though  seldom  or  ever  used 
for  removes ;  I  have,  for  the  sake  of  variety  which  is  said  to 
be  charming,  given  a  few  new  methods.  Pick,  draw,  and 
truss  four  grouse,  make  a  stuffing  like  for  the  pheasants 
(No.  544),  using  the  liver  of  the  grouse,  stuff  and  place 
them  on  the  spit,  surrounded  vnth  fat  bacon  and  sprigs  of 
heather,  moistened  with  a  glass  of  whiskey,  tie  them  up  in 
paper  and  roast  three  quarters  of  an  hour,  dress  on  a  dish 
in  the  form  of  a  cross,  and  have  ready  the  following  sauce : 
put  a  quart  of  good  melted  butter  in  a  stewpan  on  the  fire, 
and  just  as  it  begins  to  boil,  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
butter ;  stir  the  sauce  till  the  butter  is  melted,  season  rather 
high,  and  pour  over  your  birds ;  (the  sauce  must  be  rather 
thick,  but  not  too  thick ;)  under  each  bird  place  a  piece  of 
toasted  bread  well  glazed ;  serve  very  hot. 

No.  549.   Grouse  a  la  Corsaire. 
See  Faisan  (No.  544). 

No.  550.   Grotiae  A  la  Piemontaiae, 
See  Faisan  (No.  546). 

No.  551.   Grouse  a  la  Garde  Chasse. 
See  Faisans  (No.  545). 


KSMOYXS.  229 

Of  Black  Cocks  and  Grey  Hens. 

These  birds  are  a  similar  flavour  to  the  grouse,  only 
much  lai^er,  and  may  be  dressed  just  in  the  same  manner, 
only  two  cocks  will  be  sufficient  for  a  remove  of  ten  or 
twelve  persons  if  well  garnished  with  queneUes,  cockscombs, 
mushrooms,  truffles,  &c. 

No.  552.  Hare  a  la  Ma^gregcyr, 

Skin  a  fine  young  hare,  and  truss  it  as  for  roasting, 
stuff  with  a  forcemeat  made  of  the  Uver  (see  faisan  a 
la  corsaire.  No.  544),  put  it  on  the  spit,  rub  well  with  oil, 
and  while  roasting  sprinkle  a  Uttle  flour  over  now  and  then ; 
have  ready  the  fillets  of  three  other  hares  skinned  and 
nicely  larded,  put  some  butter  ia  a  saute-pan,  and  fry  them 
gently  of  light  brown  colour,  rather  underdone ;  cut  each 
fillet  in  halves,  and  have  twelve  pieces  of  toasted  bread  cut 
in  the  form  of  hearts,  of  the  same  size  as  the  fillets ;  dress 
them  alternately  on  yotir  dish  upon  a  border  of  mashed 
potatoes,  dress  the  hare  ia  the  centre,  glaze  the  fillets  and 
bread,  and  pour  a  quart  of  sauce  poivrade  (No.  33),  in 
which  you  have  introduced  a  spoonful  of  mild  orange  mar- 
malade instead  of  the  currant  jelly,  over  the  hare,  and  serve 
veiy  hot. 

No.  553.  Levraut  a  la  Coursiere, 

Skin  and  draw  two  leverets  just  caught  by  the  dogs,  save 
the  blood  in  a  basin,  truss  them  for  roasting,  lard  the  fillets, 
roast  half  an  hour  before  a  quick  fire,  put  a  quart  of  poivrade 
sauce  (No.  32)  in  a  stewpan ;  when  boiling  stir  quickly  with 
a  wooden  spoon,  and  pour  in  the  blood ;  add  a  httle  salt, 
cayenne  pepper,  a  tablespoonful  of  currant  jelly,  four  pats 
of  butter,  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon ;  sauce  over  the  leverets 
and  serve  immediately. 


2S0 


FLANC8. 


Flancs  are  required  in  every  dinner  where  there  are  more 
than  four  entrees ;  they  are  served  upon  oval  dishes  of  finom 
eighteen  inches  in  length  to  nine  in  width,  and  require  a 
little  depth ;  for  flancs  being  made  dishes,  like  removes,  the 
dish  must  contain  the  sauce.  My  readers  will  perceive  by 
the  Index  that  many  of  them  are  like  the  removes ;  but 
these  I  shall  merely  give  references  to,  my  object  in  placing 
thorn  with  the  flancs  being  to  show  that  by  being  reduced 
in  size  they  will  do  for  flancs  in  large  dinners,  and  also  be 
an  assistance  in  the  making  of  bills  of  £are. 

Flancs  are  to  be  made  of  one  or  two  solid  pieces  of 
poultry,  game,  butcher's  meat,  or  pastry,  and  keep  every- 
thing which  is  divided  into  many  pieces,  as  cotelettes,  fillets, 
escalopes,  fricassees,  salmis,  &c.,  for  entrees  as  much  as 
much  as  possible,  by  doing  which  you  wifl  add  more  im- 
portance to  your  dinner,  and  cause  more  harmony  in  the 
arrangement. 

No.  564.  FiUet  of  Beef  pique  auw  leffumes  printaniers. 

Procure  a  piece  of  fillet  of  beef  fifteen  inches  in  length, 
lard,  trim,  and  dress  it  as  directed  (No.  417) ;  when  ready 
to  serve  dress  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes  on  your  dish ; 
have  ready  twenty  young  carrots,  twenty  young  turnips, 
with  twenty  small  onions,  dressed  as  directed  for  poulardes 
(No.  5^1);  dish  them  upon  the  mashed  potatoes  with  a 
small  cauliflower  nicely  boiled  at  each  end  of  the  dish, 
place  your  fillet  in  the  centre,  glaze  it,  and  sauce  with  a 
demi-glace,  made  also  as  directed  for  the  poulardes,  but 
half  the  quantity  will  be  sufficient. 


FLANC8.  231 

No.  655.  Filet  de  Bosuf  au  jus  de  ^oseiUes. 

Procure  and  lard  a  piece  of  fiUet  of  beef  the  same  size  as 
in  the  last,  pickle  it  four  or  five  days,  as  directed  for  filet  de 
boeuf  (No.  426) ;  when  wanted  take  it  from  the  marinade, 
dry  it,  and  roast  it  in  paper,  but  ten  minutes  before  it  is 
done  take  off  the  paper  to  allow  it  to  colour  a  little ;  place 
it  on  youf  dish,  and  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  run 
half  a  pint  of  the  marinade  through  a  sieve  into  a  stewpan, 
add  an  ounee  of  glaze,  place  it  on  the  fire,  reduce  it  to  half, 
add  a  quart  of  brown  sauce,  and  again  reduce  it  till  it  be- 
comes a  clear  demi-glace ;  skim  it  when  required,  add  half 
the  rind  of  a  lemon,  the  peeUngs  of  a  few  mushrooms,  a 
little  scraped  garlic,  the  size  of  a  pea,  and  a  spoonful  of 
very  bright  currant  jelly ;  stir  it  two  minutes  over  the  fire, 
season  it  rather  high,  pass  it  through  a  tammie,  sauce  over 
the  fillet,  and  serve. 

No.  556.  FUlet  of  Beef  a  la  BeyrouL 

Procure  but  a  piece  of  fillet  the  same  size  as  in  the  last, 
imd  proceed  as  directed  (No.  419). 

For  Filet  de  Boeuf  a  la  Milanaise, 
Do.    au  jus  d'orange,  and 
Do.    au  jus  de  tomates, 
see  Removes,  Nos.  425,  420,  421,  merely  substituting  a 
piece  of  the  fillet  when  serving  them  as  flancs. 

No.  557.  Langtte  de  Bosuf  a  la  Marquise. 

Boil  a  nice  ox-tongue  three  hours,  when  done  take  the 
skin  off  carefully ;  by  allowing  it  to  get  cold,  you  can  cut 
any  design  upon  it  your  fancy  may  dictate,  but  I  prefer 
sending  them  plain,  merely  trimming  it.  You  have  pre- 
viously filleted  and  dressed  three  chickens,  as  described  for 
supreme  de  volaille,  (see  No.  808),  then  make  a  border  of 


232  FLANC8. 

mashed  potatoes  round  your  dish,  and  dress  half  the  fillets 
of  chicken  on  each  side,  one  upon  the  other  in  a  slanting 
direction ;  have  ready  dressed  four  nice  larded  sweetbreads, 
place  two  at  each  end,  and  the  tongue  in  the  centre,  have 
ready  the  following  sauce :  put  a  pint  and  a  half  of  white 
sauce  (No.  7)  in  the  saute-pan  in  which  you  cooked  your 
fillets  of  chickens,  with  twelve  spoonfuls  of  good  veal  stock, 
stir  it  over  the  fire  till  it  becomes  rather  thick,  then  add  a 
gill  of  cream  and  a  httle  powdered  sugar,  mix  all  well  to- 
gether, pass  it  through  a  tammie  into  a  stewpan  when  hot, 
sauce  over  the  fillets,  glaze  the  sweetbreads  and  tongue,  and 
serve  very  hot. 

No.  558.  Langue  de  Bceuf  a  la  Prima  Donna. 

Boil  the  tongue  as  in  the  last,  then  have  ready  twenty- 
four  quenelles  of  veal  (No.  120),  dress  a  low  border  of 
mashed  potatoes  round  the  dish,  upon  which  dress  the 
quenelles,  making  them  go  quite  round,  then  have  ready 
tke  following  sauce :  put  twenty  spoonfuls  of  white  sauce 
(No.  7),  and  ten  of  veal  stock  in  a  stewpan ;  let  it  boil  ten 
minutes,  then  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  maitre  d'hotel 
butter  (No.  79),  mix  it  very  quick  over  the  fire,  and  when 
melted  sauce  over  the  quenelles ;  put  a  nicely  boiled  Brussels 
sprout  between  each  quenelle,  glaze  the  tongue,  and  serve. 

• 

No.  559.  Langiie  de  Boeuf  a  la  St.  Atdaire. 

Cook  the  tongue  as  before,  and  when  done  fix  it  on  the 
dish  upon  mashed  potatoes ;  have  ready  the  following  ra- 
gout :  cut  four  middling-sized  cucumbers  into  pieces  about  an 
inch  and  a  half  in  length,  split  each  piece  in  three,  take  out 
the  seeds  from  each  piece,  peel  them  and  trim  them  at  the 
corners,  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  an  ounce  of  butter,  half 
a  spoonful  of  powdered  sugar,  and  two*chopped  eschalots ; 
stew  the  cucumbers  very  gently  till  quite  tender,  but  not  to 


FLANCS.  233 

break  them,  then  cut  the  breast  of  a  cooked  fowl  mto  slices 
the  size  of  the  pieces  of  cucumber  and  add  with  them ;  then 
add  a  quart  of  hot  bechamel  sauce  (No.  7)  and  a  Uttle  white 
stock,  shake  the  stewpan  over  the  fire,  but  do  not  stir  it 
with  a  spoon,  or  you  would  break  the  contents ;  finish  with 
a  fiaison  made  firom  the  yolk  of  one  egg,  pour  it  round  the 
tongue,  and  serve. 

No.  560.  Langue  de  Bceuf  a  la  Jardiniere. 

Cook  the  tongue  as  before,  fix  it  in  your  dish  upon 
mashed  potatoes,  and  serve  with  a  jardiniere  sauce  (No.  100) 
round  it. 

No.  561.  Langue  de  Bceuf  a  la  Milanaise. 

C!ook  as  before,  and  serve  with  a  sauce  a  la  Milanaise 
(No.  49)  under  it,  to  which  has  been  added  some  fillets  of 
fowl  cut  the  same  size  as  the  pieces  of  macaroni. 

Ox-tongues  may  also  be  served  with  sauce  piquante 
(No.  27)  or  sauce  a  Tltalienne  (No.  30),  and  they  are  fire- 
quently  served  as  a  flanc,  quite  plain,  especially  when  the 
opposite  flanc  is  composed  of  veal  or  poultry. 

No.  562.    Westphalia  Ham,  small. 

These  hams  require  to  be  well  soaked  in  water,  and 
scraped  previous  to  dressing ;  boil  from  three  to'  four  hours, 
and  when  done  take  off  the  skin,  leaving  a  little  on  the 
knuckle,  which  you  cut  as  fancy  may  direct ;  glaze  it  nicely, 
put  a  paper  fiill  upon  the  knuckle-bone,  and  serve  it  plain, 
or  it  may  be  served  with  any  of  the  following  sauces: 
poivrade  (No.  32),  jardiniere  (No.  100),  Milanaise  (No.  49), 
or  dressed  spinach  (No.  1087) ;  but  when  it  is  intended 
to  be  eaten  with  a  remove  of  poultry,  it  is  as  well  served 
plain. 


234  FLANC8. 

No.  563.  Loin  of  Veal  a  la  CambagSres. 

For  this  see  Removes  (No.  441 ),  only  in  tliis  instance  sub* 
stitiite  the  thin  end  of  the  loin  only,  and  that  not  too  large. 

No.  564.  Zoin  of  Veal  a  la  Cremiere. 

Procure  part  of  a  loin  about  the  size  your  dish  will  con- 
veniently hold,  place  it  on  a  spit  and  have  ready  some  v^e- 
tables  of  all  kinds  cut  small ;  lay  them  on  two  or  three 
sheets  of  thickish  paper,  moisten  them  with  half  a  pint  of 
cream,  tie  the  veal  up  in  them  and  roast  it  two  hours,  make 
a  border  of  mashed  potatoes  round  your  dish,  upon  which 
dress  twelve  nice  poached  eggs ;  take  up  the  veal,  clear  it 
from  the  vegetables,  and  dress  it  in  the  centre ;  have  ready 
the  follovnng  sauoe.:  put  a  quart  of  bechamel  sauce  (No.  7) 
in  a  stewpan,  with  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  salt,  and  sugar ; 
stir  it  over  a  quick  fire,  boil  it  ten  minutes,  then  add  a  gill 
of  cream,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  an  ounce  of  fresh  butter, 
pour  it  over  the  eggs  and  veal,  and  serve ;  the  sauce  requires 
to  be  rather  thick,  but  if  too  mudi  so,  thin  it  with  a  little 
milk ;  if  sprue  grass  is  in  season,  a  few  of  the  heads  boiled, 
and  lard  between  the  eggs,  would  have  a  pleasing  eflFect. 
For  Loins  a  la  puree  de  celeri, 

Do.       maoedoine  de  l%umes,  and 
Do.       a  la  Strasbourgienne 
See  Removes,  Nos.  443,  442,  and  444. 

No.  565.  Noiof  de  veau pique  aujus. 

Procure  a  very  white  leg  of  veal  from  a  cow  calf,  saw  off 
the  knuckle,  lay  the  fillet  on  the  table  and  cut  it  open 
without  cutting  through  the  meat,  that  is  cut  from  the 
bone  in  the  centre  under  the  udder  until  you  cut  through 
the  skin,  take  out  the  bone,  and  lay  it  out,  there  will  be 
three  separate  lumps  of  meat,  the  largest  of  which  is  the 


PLANC8.  235 

noix  (or  nut) ;  to  cut  it  out  press  your  hand  upon  it  and 
with  a  sharp  knife  cut  down  close  to  the  skin,  separating  it 
from  the  skin  till  it  comes  to  the  udder,  then  bring  the 
knife  up,  lay  the  piece  upon  the  table  the  best  side  down- 
wards and  beat  it  well,  trim  it  of  a  nice  shape,  and  lard  it 
with  pieces  of  fat  bacon  two  inches  long  and  slender  in 
proportion,  cut  off  the  udder  and  sew  it  to  the  side,  put  a 
few  dices  of  bacon  in  a  flat  stewpan,  with  two  or  three 
onions  cut  in  slices,  half  a  bunch  of  parsley,  two  bay-leaves, 
and  a  sprig  of  thyme,  lay  in  the  noix,  add  a  pint  of  white 
broth,  then  put  the  hd  on  the  stewpan,  and  place  it  in  a 
moderate  o\esi  for  three  hours,  occasionally  looking  at  it, 
taking  care  that  the  gravy  does  not  become  dry  or  burnt, 
if  it  becomes  dry  add  a  little  water  to  moisten  it,  but  not 
enough  to  cover  the  veal,  which  moisten  now  and  then 
with  the  gravy ;  when  done,  glaze  it  nicely,  slightly  colour 
it  vrith  the  salamander  if  required,  and  lay  it  on  a  dish,  keep 
it  hot,  then  pass  the  gravy  through  a  tanmiie  into  a  smaller 
stewpan,  set  it  on  the  comer  of  the  fire,  skim  off  all  the  fat, 
pour  it  in  your  dish,  and  lay  the  noix  in  the  last  moment 
of  serving,  or  the  fat  would  run,  and  give  the  gravy  a  bad 
appearance. 

No.  666.  Notof  de  Veau  a  la  Potaffere. 

Procure  and  dress  a  noix  de  veau  as  in  the  last,  except- 
ing the  udder,  which  ia  not  required,  and  you  need  not  be 
particular  about  its  being  the  leg  of  a  cow  calf;  when 
cooked  make*  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes  round  your  dish, 
upon  which  dress  several  pieces  of  nice  cauliflowers,  (about 
the  size  of  eggs,)  which  you  have  previously  boiled,  place 
the  noix  in  the  centre  the  last  thmg  before  serving,  and 
have  ready  the  following  sauce:  put  thirty  spoonfuls  of 
white  sauce  (No.  7)  in  a  stewpan  with  ten  of  the  gravy 
fiom  the  noix,  (free  from  fat,)  boil  ten  minutes,  then  add 


236  FLANC8. 

half  a  gill  of  cream  and  a  little  sugar,  poiir  the  sauce  over 
the  cauliflowers,  glaze  the  noix  and  serve  immediately, 
throwing  a  few  green  peas,  well  boiled,  round. 

No.  567.  Noix  de  Veau  a  la  Palestine. 

Prepare  and  dress  the  noix  as  in  the  last,  then  wash  and 
peel  two  dozen  middling-sized  Jerusalem  artichokes,  give 
them  the  shape  of  pears,  boil  them  in  salt  and  water  in 
which  you  have  put  a  piece  of  butter,  boil  them  till  tender, 
make  a  small  border  of  mashed  potatoes  upon  your  dish, 
on  which  dress  the  artichokes,  the  thick  part  uppermost, 
scoop  a  piece  out  of  the  top  of  each,  and  stick  in  a  nicely- 
boiled  Brussels  sprout,  place  the  uoix  in  the  centre,  glaze  it 
and  pour  a  thin  sauce  a  la  puree  d'artichaut  (No.  90)  over 
the  artichokes  and  serve. 

No.  568.  Noix  de  Veau  aux  legumeB  nouveaux. 

Prepare  and  dress  the  noix  as  in  the  last,  then  have  pre- 
pared twenty  young  carrots,  twenty  young  turnips,  and 
twenty  young  onions,  prepared  as  described  in  the  article 
stewed  rump  of  beef  a  la  Flamande  (No.  428),  dress  them 
tastefully  upon  your  dish  upon  a  thin  border  of  mashed 
potatoes,  place  the  noix  in  the  centre  and  have  ready  the 
following  sauce :  mix  the  glaze  from  the  vegetables  with  a 
quart  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1),  and  half  a  pint  of  the  gravy 
from  the  noix,  (but  quite  free  from  fat,)  in  a  stewpan,  place  it 
over  the  fire  and  reduce  tiQ  it  becomes  a  thickish  demi-glace, 
keeping  it  well  skimmed,  sauce  oyer  the  vegetables,  glaze 
the  noix  and  serve. 

No.  569.  Noix  de  Veau  a  la  puree  de  champignons. 

Prepare  and  dress  the  noix  as  before,  and  have  ready  a 
sauce  a  la  puree  de  champignons  (No.  54),  pour  it  on  your 
dish,  lay  the  noix  over,  glaze  and  serve  immediately. 


PLANCS.  287 

No.  570.  Noix  de  veau  a  la  Prince  Albert 

Prepare  and  dress  the  noix  as  before,  have  likewise  ten 
lambs'  sweetbreads  larded  and  dressed  (see  No.  746),  also 
ten  plovers'  eggs,  which  peel  and  warm  in  white  stock, 
make  a  thin  border  of  mashed  potatoes  round  your  dish, 
and  dress  the  sweetbreads  and  plovers'  eggs  alternately 
upon  it ;  place  the  noix  in  the  centre,  place  a  ring  of  truf3es 
upon  each  plover's  egg,  and  have  ready  the  following  sauce  *. 
pass  the  gravy  from  the  noix  and  sweetbreads  through  a 
sieve  into  a  stewpan,  set  it  on  the  fire,  skim  off  all  the  fat, 
add  a  quart  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1)  and.  a  pint  of  con- 
somme (No.  134),  reduce  it  quickly  over  the  fire>  keeping 
it  stirred  with  a  wooden  spoon,  and  when  reduced  to  a 
thinnish  glaze  take  it  off  the  fire,  add  a  Uttle  sugar,  and 
two  pats  of  butter ;  glaze  the  sweetbreads  and  noix^  sauce 
round  and  serve  immediately. 

No.  571.  Neck  of  Veal  a  la  St.  Clair. 

Trim  the  best  end  of  a  very  nice  neck  of  veal,  see  Re- 
moves (No.  451),  roast  it  in  vegetables,  and  give  it  a  nice 
gold  colour ;  make  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes  round  your 
dish,  upon  which  dress  a  number  of  slices  of  fried  ham, 
(each  cut  in  the  shape  of  a  long  heart,)  to  form  a  crown, 
place  the  veal  in  the  centre,  and  pour  some  very  thin 
tomata  sauce  (No.  37)  (in  which  you  have  mixed  half  an 
ounce  of  anchovy  butter)  round,  and  serve.  For  neck  of 
veal  a  la  puree  de  celeri,  ditto  a  la  macedoine  de  legumes, 
and  ditto  a  la  cremiere,  (see  Nos.  451,  422  and  564.) 

No.  572.   Calf^a  Head  a  la  Ccmstantijie. 

C!ook  half  a  calf's  head  as  directed  (No.  459),  and  when 
done  lay  it  on  a  dish  with  another  dish  upon  it,  on  which 
place  a  fourteen  pounds  weight,  when  cold  cut  twelve  nice 


238  FLANC8. 

oval  pieces  out  of  it,  egg  each  piece  over  with  a  paste-bmsh, 
and  throw  it  into  bread-crumbs  mixed  with  chopped  lean 
ham ;  set  them  in  the  oven  and  when  quite  hot  and  of  a 
nice  gold  colour  dress  them  in  a  crown  round  your  dish 
upon  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes,  place  the  brains  at  each 
end  of  the  dish,  and  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  make 
a  quart  of  sauce  au  jus  d'echalotte  (No.  16),  well  seasoned, 
add  to  it  twenty  pickled  mushrooms  and  forty  very  small 
white  pickled  onions,  warm  them  five  minutes  in  the  sauce, 
then  pour  the  sauce  in  the  centre,  glaze  the  pieces  of  calfs 
head  and  serve  very  hot.  For  calfs  head  en  tortue,  ditto  a 
la  HoUandaise,  and  ditto  a  Tamiral,  see  Nos.  462,  459 
and  463. 

No.  673.  Neck  of  Mutton  demi  Fravenfole. 

Prepare  and  braise  a  neck  of  mutton  as  described  for  the 
Removes,  see  that  it  is  not  too  fat ;  you  have  prepared  a 
puree  of  onions  like  for  the  cotelettes  (see  No.  701),  spread 
some  over  the  neck  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick, 
egg  and  bread-CTumb  it  lightly,  then  put  it  in  a  hot  oven 
twenty  minutes,  if  not  sufficiently  coloured  pass  the  sala- 
mander over  it,  then  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  put  a 
pint  of  brown  sauce  in  a  stewpan,  with  half  the  quantity  of 
good  stock,  reduce  it  over  the  fire  till  it  comes  to  a  nice 
demi-glace,  add  a  Utile  scraped  garlic  the  size  of  a  couple 
of  peas,  dress  the  neck  in  a  dish  and  pour  the  sauce  over ; 
serve  very  hot ;  a  tittle  seasoning  may  be  added  to  the  sauce 
if  required. 

No.  574.  Ned  of  Mutton  a  la  Soubise. 

Prepare,  lard,  and  braise  a  neck  of  mutton  as  described 
in  the  Removes  (No.  482),  when  done  glaze  it  well,  pass  the 
salamander  over,  place  it  in  your  dish,  and  serve  with  a  sauce 
Soubise  (No.  47)  poured  round  it. 


FLANCS.  2S9 


No.  575.  Neck  of  Mutton  a  VJlyerienne. 

Procure  a  large  neck  of  mutton,  trim  it  as  before,  and 
lard  the  lean  part  with  fine  cut  bacon,  like  for  the  noix  de 
Teau,  make  two  quarts  of  marinade  (see  fillet  of  beef  a  la 
Bohemienne,  No.  426),  and  lay  the  neck  in  it  for  three 
days,  then  run  a  skewer  through  it  and  fix  it  on  your  spit, 
loast  it  about  an  hour,  giving  it  a  very  good  colour ;  have 
ready  the  following  sauce :  strain  half  a  pint  of  the  mari- 
nade into  a  stewpan,  add  a  pint  of  brown  sauce  and  a 
small  piece  of  glaze,  reduce  it  till  forming  a  thickish  demi- 
^ace ;  you  have  previously  soaked  twenty  very  nice  Erench 
plums  in  boiling  water  twenty  minutes,  drain  them  on  a 
sieve,  and  when  dry  throw  them  into  the  sauce,  season  vnth 
a  little  salt  and  cayeime  pepper,  pour  the  sauce  in  your 
dish,  dress  the  neck  upon  it  and  serve. 

No.  576.  Neck  of  Mutton  a  la  Portugaise. 

Prepare,  lard,  and  braise  a  neck  of  mutton  as  before, 
then  peel  six  middling-sized  Portugal  onions,  blanch  them 
twenty  minutes  in  boihng  water,  then  lay  them  on  a  cloth 
to  drain,  put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  in  a  flat  stew- 
pan,  let  it  melt,  lay  in  the  onions,  add  one  ounce  of  sugar, 
and  a  little  salt,  and  just  cover  them  with  a  little  white 
stock,  let  them  simmer  gently  for  one  hour  or  more  until 
quite  tender,  take  them  out  carefully,  lay  on  a  doth,  cut 
them  in  halves,  dress  in  a  border  round  the  dish,  and  lay 
the  neck  in  the  centre,  then  take  the  butter  from  the  stock 
the  onions  were  stewed  in,  put  half  a  pint  of  it  in  a  stew- 
pan,  vnth  a  quart  of  white  sauce  (No.  7)  and  half  a  pint  of 
tflbck,  reduce  it  till  it  becomes  again  thickish,  and  pour  it 
over  the  onions  round  the  mutton,  which  glaze  and  serve 
very  hot. 


J 


240  FLANCS. 

For  neck  of  mutton  a  la  legumiere,  ditto  a  la  Bretonne, 
and  ditto  a  la  Chartre,  see  Removes,  Nos.  482,  483,  and 
486. 

No.  577.  Loin  of  Mutton  en  Carbonade. 

Bone  a  loin  of  mutton  carefully,  leaving  the  small  fillet 
attached,  lard  it  well  with  pieces  of  lean  ham  and  fat  bacon, 
season  with  chopped  eschalots,  chopped  parsley,  pepper  and 
salt,  roll  it  up  as  tight  as  possible,  previously  putting  in 
some  forcemeat  (No.  120),  tie  it  up  with  string,  put  in  a 
stewpan,  with  some  white  stock  and  vegetables,  let  it  stew 
gently  two  hours  and  a  half,  then  take  it  up,  cut  off  the 
string,  trim  it  at  each  end,  glaze  the  top,  pass  the  salaman- 
der over  to  give  it  a  nice  ^colour,  and  serve  with  dressed 
spinach  (No.  1088),  sauce  Soubise  (No.  47),  or  sauce 
piquante  (No.  27). 

No.  578.  Carbonade  de  Mouton  a  la  Bour^notte, 

Prepare  a  loin  of  mutton  as  in  the  last,  then  peel  one 
hundred  button  onions,  put  half  an  ounce  of  pounded  sugar 
in  a  stewpan,  set  it  over  the  fire  and  as  soon  as  it  is  melted 
add  half  an  ounce  of  butter  and  the  onions,  place  them  over 
a  slow  fire,  tossing  them  eveiy  now  and  then,  when  getting 
tender  add  a  pint  and  a  half  of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  and  a 
pint  of  white  stock,  with  a  small  bunch  of  parsley,  thyme, 
and  bay-leaf,  set  it  on  the  fire  till  the  onions  are  quite  done, 
take  them  out  with  a  colander  spoon  and  put  them  in  a 
clean  stewpan,  reduce  the  sauce  till  it  becomes  rather 
thickish,  pass  it  through  a  tammie  upon  the  onions,  warm 
altogether,  pour  the  sauce  in  your  dish,  place  the  carbonade 
in  the  centre,  which  glaze  and  serve  very  hot. 

For  breast  of  mutton  a  la  Soubise,  sauce  piquante,  tomate, 
&c.,  see  Removes  No.  487. 


FLANCS.  241 

No.  579.  Saddle  of  Lamb  a  la  Bonne  Fermiere. 

Procure  a  very  small  saddle  of  very  white  lamb,  trim  it 
according  to  the  size  of  your  dish,  roast  it  in  vegetables  as 
desoibed  in  the  Removes  (No.  417),  then  boil  two  lambs' 
frys  in  water  five  minutes,  drain  it  on  a  sieve,  egg  and 
bread-crumb  it,  and  fry  in  veiy  hot  lard,  set  the  saddle  in 
the  centre  of  your  dish,  dress  the  fry  around  it,  and  gar- 
nish with  parsley  fried  nice  and  crisp,  put  a  quart  of  cpn- 
somme  in  a  stewpan,  let  it  reduce  to  more  than  half,  add  a 
little  sugar  and  chopped  mint,  and  pour  it  in  the  dish  but 
not  over  the  fiy. 

For  saddle  of  lamb  aux  petits  pois,  ditto  a  la  Sevigne, 
ditto  a  la  menagere,  and  ditto  demi  Froven^ale,  see  Re- 
moves Nos.  488,  489,  492,  and  491. 

No.  580.  Shoulder  ofLambfarci  aux  truffles. 

Take  the  blade  bone  carefally  out  of  a  shoulder  of  lamb 
without  bursting  the  skin,  lard  the  under  part  with  pieces 
of  fat  bacon  about  an  inch  and  a  half  long  and  a  quarter  of 
an  inch  in  thickness,  lay  it  upon  a  cloth,  season  it,  and 
spread  some  forcemeat  about  an  inch  in  thickness  down  the 
centre  in  a  line  with  the  knuckle,  cut  some  long  strips  of 
cooked  ham  or  tongue  and  lay  upon  it,  with  some  truffles 
cut  in  as  long  strips  as  possible,  then  roll  the  &ps  over  and 
sew  it  up,  giving  a  nice  oval  appearance,  tie  it  up  in  a  cloth 
and  put  it  in  a  stewpan,  with  two  large  onions,  two  carrots, 
two  turnips,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay-leaf,  some 
trimmings  of  veal,  beef,  or  mutton,  cover  the  whole  with 
some  white  stock  (or  water,  but  then  you  must  put  more 
meat),  let  it  simmer  for  three  hours,  skim  it  weU,  add  half 
a  pint  of  bucellas  wine,  take  up  the  lamb,  untie  it,  pull  out 
all  the  string,  drain  upon  a  cloth,  lay  it  on  your  dish,  place 
a  paper  firiU  upon  the  knuckle  bone,  keep  hot,  and  prepare 

16 


242  FLANCS. 

the  following  sauce :  take  one  quart  of  the  stock  it  was 
cooked  in,  which  pass  through  a  tammie  into  a  stewpan, 
take  off  all  the  grease,  add  a  pint  of  denii-glace  (No.  9), 
reduce  it  to  a  demi  glaze,  season  with  a  little  sugar  and 
salt  if  required,  pour  it  round  the  lamb  and  serve  very  hot ; 
to  carve  it  cut  it  in  slices  crosswise,  it  will  have  a  marbled 
appearance. 

No.  581.  Shoulder  ofLambfarci  a  la  Financiered 

Proceed  exactly  as  in  the  last,  but  serve  with  a  ragout 
financiere  (No.  50)  instead  of  the  sauce. 

No.  582.  Shoulder  o/Lamifarci  a  la  puree  depois  vert 

Proceed  as  before,  but  omit  the  truffles,  and  serve  with  a 
puree  of  green  peas  (No.  86). 

No.  583.  Shoulder  qfZamb  a  la  Maitre  6^ Hotel. 

Plain  roast  a  small  shoulder  of  lamb,  then  put  a  gill  of 
good  cream  in  a  stewpan,  place  it  over  the  fire,  and  when 
boiling  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  maitre  d'hotel  butter 
(No.  79;,  stir  it  till  melted  and  pour  it  over  the  lamb. 

No.  584.  Neck  of  Lamb  aux  legumes  printaniers. 

Trim  a  nice  white  neck  of  lamb  in  the  manner  described 
for  mutton  (No.  482),  keep  it  nice  and  square,  run  a  skewer 
through  and  roast  it  with  vegetables,  make  a  border  of 
young  vegetables  on  your  dish  prepared  as  for  fillet  of  beef 
(No.  554),  dish  the  lamb  in  the  centre,  sauce  over  the 
vegetables,  and  serve  sauce  the  same  as  for  the  filet  de  boeuf. 

No.  585.  Neck  of  Lamb  aux  petita  pois. 

Proceed  as  in  the  last,  when  roasted  prepare  a  quart  of 
peas  as  directed  (No.  84), -pour  them  on  your  dish  and 
dress  the  Iamb  upon  it. 


FLANCS.  243 

No.  586.  Neck  of  Lamb  a  la  BruxeUaise. 

Trim  and  braise  a  neck  of  lamb  as  before,  keeping  it  as 
white  as  possible,  make  a  very  nice  green  puree  of  Brussels 
sprouts  (as  directed  No.  81),  pour  the  puree  in  your  dish 
and  dress  the  lamb  upon  it. 

No.  587.  Neck  of  Lamb  a  la  Douairiere. 

Trim  and  braise  a  neck  of  lamb  as  above,  have  twelve 
lambs'  sweetbreads,  six  hearts,  and  six  throats,  blanch  them, 
lard  the  six  heart-breads,  and  dress  them  as  (No.  674),  cut 
the  six  throat-breads  in  slices  and  put  them  in  a  stewpan, 
with  half  an  ounce  of  butter,  three  chopped  eschalots,  a 
httle  pepper,  salt,  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon ;  let  them  sim- 
mer ten  minutes,  then  add  a  quart  of  white  sauce  (No.  7), 
twenly  tablespoonfiils  of  white  stock,  and  a  smaU  bunch  of 
parsley,  sinuner  twenty  minutes,  take  out  the  parsley,  add 
twelve  fine  cockscombs  ready  dressed,  (see  No.  128),  and 
finish  with  a  liaison  of  two  yolks  of  eggs  mixed  with  a  gill 
of  cream ;  do  not  let  it  boil  after  the  liaison  is  in,  pour  the 
sauce  on  your  dish,  lay  the  neck  upon  it,  glaze  the  larded 
sweetbreads,  dress  them  round  the  neck  and  serve ;  keep 
the  neck  as  white  as  possible. 

No.  588.  Neck  of  Lamb  a  la  Maitre  ^Hdtel 

Plain  roast  a  neck  of  lamb  and  proceed  as  directed  for 
shoulder  (No.  688). 

No.  589.  Petita  Poumns  a  la  Moskovite. 

Truss  two  chickens  as  for  boihng,  dip  the  breasts  in 
boiling  water  one  minute,  and  lard  them  very  nicely,  braise 
them  thus :  put  some  sUces  of  fat  bacon  at  the  bottom  of  a 
flat  stewpan,  lay  in  the  chickens  breast  upwards,  put  in  two 
onions,  one  carrot,  one  turnip,  four  cloves,  and  a  small 


244  FLANCS. 

bunch  of  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay-leaf,  add  as  much  white 
stock  as  will  come  up  to  the  larded  part  of  the  chicken, 
cover  with  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper,  put  the  cover  on  the 
stewpan  and  place  it  over  a  slow  fire,  let  them  simmer  very 
gently  about  half  an  hour,  a  short  time  before  they  are 
done  lay  some  red  hot  charcoal  upon  the  cover  of  the  stew- 
pan  to  colour  the  larded  part  of  the  chickens ;  have  ready 
the  following  sauce :  you  have  previously  boiled  a  very  nice 
Russian  tongue,  with  a  sharp  knife  trim  it  and  cut  it  into 
long  thin  slices,  cut  also  ten  large  gherkins  in  thin  slices 
lengthwise,  put  two  tablespoonfiils  of  finely  chopped  onions 
in  a  stewpan,  with  four  of  the  vinegar  firom  the  gherkins, 
reduce  it  to  half,  then  add  three  pints  of  white  sauce  (No. 
7),  and  a  pint  of  white  stock,  boil  it  a  quarter  of  an  hour, 
or  till  it  becomes  rather  thickish,  pass  it  through  a  tanmiie 
into  a  clean  stewpan,  warm  it,  season  with  a  little  cayenne 
and  a  teaspoonful  of  pounded  sugar,  add  the  slices  of 
tongue  and  gherkins,  and  when  quite  hot  add  a  gill  of 
cream ;  pour  the  sauce  on  the  dish  upon  which  lay  the 
chickens,  slantwise,  the  breasts  pointing  contrarywise. 

No,  590.  Petita  Poumna  a  VEcarlaie. 

Roast  two  spring  chickens  in  vegetables  as  directed  in 
the  Removes ;  you  have  previously  boiled  an  ox  tongue, 
which  cut  in  halves  lengthwise,  trim  each  piece  to  imitate 
two  small  tongues,  fix  them  on  mashed  potatoes  on  your 
dish,  the  points  in  the  centre  and  the  thick  parts  at  the 
ends,  then  dress  the  chickens  tail  to  tail  to  form  with  the 
tongues  a  cross;  have  ready  boiled  five  small  heads  of 
cauliflower,  place  one  of  them  in  the  centre  upon  the  tails 
of  the  chickens,  and  one  between  the  chickens  and  tongue 
in  each  space ;  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  put  three 
pints  of  white  sauce  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  pint  of  white 
stock,  boil  till  rather  thick,  season  with  a  little  sugar  and 


FLANGS.  245 

salt,  finish  with  a  liaison  of  two  yolks  of  eggs>  mixed  with  a 
gill  of  cream,  sauce  over  the  chickens  and  cauliflowers,  glaze 
the  tongue  and  serve. 

No.  591.  Petits  Poumna  a  la  Palestine. 

Roast  two  spring  chickens  in  vegetables  as  before,  pre- 
pare forty  Jerusalem  artichokes  and  dress  in  a  border  round 
the  dish,  as  directed  for  noix  de  veau  a  la  Palestine  (No. 
567),  dress  the  chickens  in  the  centre,  and  sauce  the  same 
as  in  the  last  article. 

No.  592.  Petits  Poussins  a  la  Venitienne. 

Truss,  krd,  and  braise  two  chickens  as  before,  dress  them 
on  a  dish,  and  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  put  two 
tablespoonfiils  of  chopped  eschalots  in  a  stewpan,  with  one 
of  salad  oil,  pass  them  a  few  minutes  over  the  fire,  then 
add  two  glasses  of  sherry,  reduce  to  half,  add  a  pint  and  a 
half  of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  and  half  a  pint  of  white  stock, 
reduce  it  till  it  comes  to  a  proper  consistency,  add  one 
tablespoonful  of  chopped  mushrooms,  one  of  chopped 
trufSes,  and  one  of  chopped  parsley ;  season  with  a  httle 
sugar  and  salt,  throw  in  twelve  fine  cockscombs  ready 
dressed,  squeeze  a  UtUe  lemon-juice  in,  and  finish  with  half 
a  gill  of  cream,  sauce  over  and  serve. 

No.  593.  Petits  Poussins  a  la  Prince  Albert. 

Truss  and  braise  two  chickens  as  above,  then  have  eight 
lambs'  sweetbreads,  and  eight  plovers'  eggs,  as  directed  for 
noix  de  veau  a  la  Prince  Albert  (No.  570),  make  a  border 
as  there  described,  and  dress  the  chickens  in  the  centre ; 
have  ready  the  following  sauce :  put  a  quart  of  good  veal 
stock  in  a  steMrpan,  with  the  trimmings  and  bones  of  a 
cooked  fowl,  reduce  it  to  half,  pass  it  through  a  sieve  into 
another  stewpan,  skim  it,  then  add  a  pint  of  tomata  sauce 


246  FLANCS. 

■ 

(No.  87),  half  a  pint  ot  white  sanoe,  and  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  sugar ;  boil  altogether  ten  minutes,  finish  with  two  pats 
of  butter,  and  when  melted  pour  it  over  the  chickens ;  glaze 
the  sweetbreads  and  serve. 

No.  594.  Fetita  Poumns  aujua  ffestroffon. 

Braise  two  chickens  as  directed  for  a  la  Moscovite  (No. 
589),  but  they  will  not  require  larding,  and  completely 
cover  them  vnth  stock ;  when  done  pass  the  stock  through 
a  tammie  into  another  stewpan,  place  it  on  the  fire,  skim 
off  all  the  fat,  and  clarify  it  as  directed  (No.  134),  place  it 
again  on  the  fire  and  reduce  it  to  a  very  thin  glaze,  add 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  and  half  a  one  of  sugar, 
throw  in  twenty  leaves  of  tarragon,  boil  altogether  two 
minutes,  dress  the  chickens  on  a  dish,  sauce  over  and  serve. 

For  petits  poussins  a  la  marechale,  and  ditto  a  la  tartare, 
see  Removes,  Nos.  533,  531. 

No.  595.  Petits  Poussins  a  la  Chevcdiere. 

Truss,  lard,  and  braise  the  chickens  as  directed  for  a  la 
Moscovite  (No.  589),  only  let  them  stew  rather  longer, 
dress  on  your  dish,  and  have  ready  the  following  sauce : 
peel  about  forty  button  onions,  put  a  quarter  of  an  ounce 
of  powdered  sugar  in  a  stewpan,  place  it  on  the  fire,  and 
when  the  sugar  melts  add  an  ounce  of  butter  and  the  onions, 
pass  them  over  a  slow  fire  tiU  they  become  tender,  but 
they  must  be  kept  quite  white,  add  a  quart  of  white  sauce 
(No.  7),  half  a  pint  of  veal  stock,  and  a  good  bunch  of 
parsley ;  let  it  simmer  until  the  onions  are  quite  done,  take 
them  out  with  a  colander  spoon  and  put  them  in  an- 
other stewpan,  reduce  the  sauce  until  it  becomes  su£Sciently 
thick,  then  pass  it  through  a  tammie  over  the  onions,  add 
twenty  heads  of  mushrooms,  boil  up,  and  finish  with  two 
pats  of  butter,  a  little  sugar,  and  a  liaison  of  two  yolks  of 


FLANCS.  247 

eggs ;  pour  tne  sauce  on  your  dish,  dress  the  chickens  over 
and  serve ;  you  can  lard  and  dress  the  fillets  of  two  chickens 
as  directed  (No.  792),  and  garnish  your  chickens  with 
them. 

No.  596.  Petits  Poumns  a  la  Marengo. 

Take  two  spring  chickens  and  truss  them  as  directed  for 
poulet  a  la  marechale  (No.  632),  put  four  tablespoonfuls  of 
oil  in  a  flat  stewpan,  lay  in  the  chickens,  previously  seasoned 
with  pepper  and  salt,  place  them  over  a  moderate  fire,  put 
the  cover  on  the  stewpan,  let  them  go  ten  minutes  till  they 
become  brown,  then  turn  them  and  let  remam  till  the  other 
side  is  browned,  pour  off  the  oil,  then  add  a  pint  of  brown 
sauce,  one  bay-leaf,  and  a  pint  of  good  consonune,  place  it 
over  the  fire  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  take  out  the  chickens, 
lay  them  on  your  dish  and  keep  hot,  throw  about  forty 
heads  of  mushrooms  into  the  stewpan,  with  a  Uttle  sugar 
and  a  clove  of  scraped  garlick,  reduce  the  sauce  till  it  be- 
comes rather  thickish ;  pour  it  over  the  chickens  and  serve. 

Poulet  a  la  Marie  Stuart  (No.  528), 

Do.  a  la  Perigord  (No.  524), 

Do.  a  la  macedoine  de  legumes  (No.  525), 

Do.  a  rindienne  (No.  526), 
which  are  given  in  the  Removes,  may  also  be  served  for 
flancs,  reducing  the  quantity  to  the  size  of  the  dish. 

No.  597.  Ducklinga  atiw  petits  poia  au  lard. 

Truss  two  ducklings  vnth  their  legs,  turned  inside,  roast 
them  in  vegetables,  but  just  before  they  are  done  take 
away  the  vegetables  and  let  them  obtain  a  little  colour ; 
have  ready  boiled  three  pints  of  young  peas,  which  put  in  a 
stewpan,  with  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  three  of  sugar,  a 
bunch  of  ten  spring  green  onions  tied  up  with  a  few 
sprigs  of  parsley,   one  bay-leaf,   a  sprig  of  thyme,  ten 


248  FLANC8. 

gpoonfuls  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1),  and  two  of  consomme ; 
you  have  boiled  half  a  pound  of  lean  bacon,  which  cut  into 
neat  square  pieces  the  size  of  small  wahiuts,  put  them  in 
the  stewpan  with  the  peas  and  simmer  altogether  ten 
minutes,  take  out  the  bunch  of  herbs,  place  your  ducklings 
in  a  flat  stewpan,  pour  the  peas  over  and  place  them  in  your 
bain  marie  for  half  an  hour  before  serving,  then  dress  your 
ducklings  on  a  dish,  pour  the  peas  over  and  serve. 

No.  598.  Dacilinffs  aujus  d^ orange. 

Truss  and  roast  two  ducklings  as  above,  and  serve  on  a 
dish  with  a  sauce  au  jus  d'orange  (No.  17)  round  them. 
Ducklings  aux  olives  and  ducklings  a  la  Chartre  are  dressed 
the  same  as  above,  but  they  are  given  in  full  in  the  Re- 
moves, No.  539. 

■ 

No.  599.  Faisans  a  la  Fontainbleau. 

Procure  two  young  pheasants,  pluck,  draw,  and  truss 
them  with  their  legs  turned  inside,  lard  the  best  part  of  the 
breast  in  a  square,  lay  some  thin  sUces  of  fat  bacon  at  the 
bottom  of  a  flat  stewpan,  put  your  pheasants  upon  it  breasts 
upwards ;  have  ready  blanched  twelve  fine  cabbage  lettuces, 
take  off  the  outside  leaves  and  place  them  in  the  stewpan 
with  the  pheasants,  put  in  also  two  large  onions  with  three 
cloves  stuck  in  each,  and  a  bunch  of  parsley  with  two  bay- 
leaves,  pour  in  sufficient  white  stock  to  come  up  to  the 
larded  part  of  the  birds,  lay  eight  pork  sausages  on  the  top 
of  the  lettuces,  cover  the  whole  with  a  sheet  of  buttered 
paper,  cover  the  stewpan  and  stew  gently  for  an  hour, 'glaze 
and  salamander  the  breasts  of  the  birds,  take  the  lettuces 
and  sausages  carefully  out  and  lay  them  on  a  clean  cloth 
to  extract  the  grease,  then  lay  two  pieces  of  lettuce  in  the 
centre  of  your  dish,  just  large  enough  to  dress  the  birds 
upon,  place  one  upon  each  piece,  and  with  the  remainder 


FLAKCS.  240 

make  a  flat  border  near  the  edge  of  the  dish>  cat  the 
sausages  into  three  pieces  and  dress  them  upon  the  border 
of  lettuce,  pass  the  stock  from  the  stewpan  through  a  sieve 
into  another  stewpan,  set  it  to  boil,  skim  off  all  the  fat, 
add  a  pint  and  a  half  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1),  reduce  it  to 
a  nice  demi-glace,  add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  sauce 
over  the  birds  and  serve. 

The  cabbage  lettuces  must  be  rather  highly  seasoned 
when  put  in  the  pan  to  stew. 

No.  600.  Faisans  a  la  puree  de  Gibier, 

Truss,  lard,  and  braise  two  pheasants  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  in  the  last,  omitting  the  lettuces  and  sausages ;  when 
done,  have  ready  prepared  two  thick  pieces  of  toast,  which 
cover  with  a  stuflSng  made  from  the  livers  of  the  birds,  as 
directed  for  faisans  a  Tamiral  (see  Eemoves,  No.  544); 
put  them  in  a  saute-pan  in  the  oven  twenty  minutes,  shape 
them  tastefully,  place  them  in  your  dish,  and  dress  the  birds 
upon  them ;  have  ready  prepared  the  following  sauce :  roast 
a  grouse,  partridge,  or  any  bird  you  have,  or  the  remains 
of  some  game  left  from  another  dinner,  pick  off  all  the  flesh, 
which  pound  well  in  a  mortar,  put  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
chopped  eschalots  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  small  piece  of  butter, 
pass  them  a  minute  or  two  over  the  fire,  then  add  the 
pounded  game  with  a  quart  of  the  demi-glace  de  gibier 
(No.  61),  and  a  gill  of  stock.  Boil  altogether  ten  minutes, 
rub  it  through  a  tammie,  put  it  into  another  stewpan, 
*  season  with  a  little  pepper,  salt,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
sugar ;  if  too  thick,  add  a  little  broth,  warm  it,  but  do  not 
let  it  boil,  sauce  round  the  birds,  glaze  the  larded  part, 
and  serve. 

No.  601.  Faisans  trvffes  a  la  Fiemontaise. 

Proceed  as  directed  in  the  Removes,  using  only  two  small 
pheasants  or  one  large  one. 


250  FLANC8. 


No.  602.  Faisans  a  TAmirail. 

Proceed  as  directed  for  the  remove,  but  one  lai^  phea- 
sant wiU  be  quite  sufficient,  diminish  the  quantity  cf  garni- 
ture and  sauce  in  proportion. 

No.  603.  Grtme, 

Two  small  grouse  will  be  quite  sufficient  for  a  flanc ; 
they  aie  dressed  in  any  of  the  ways  as  described  for  phea- 
sants, but  though  dressed  in  the  same  manner,  they  might 
be  served  in  a  lai^  dinner,  where  pheasants  were  dressed 
the  same,  as  the  flavour  of  the  two  would  be  very  different, 
the  grouse  being  so  much  wilder  would  give  a  different 
flavour  to  the  garniture  and  sauces.  For  grouse  a  la  Rob 
Roy  (see  Removes,  No  548). 

No.  604.  Chartreuse  de  Perdreaux. 

Truss  two  nice  partridges  with  the  legs  turned  inside, 
stick  about  ten  small  pieces  of  fat  bacon  two  inches  in 
length  and  the  size  of  a  quill  through  the  breasts  length- 
wise, then  cut  two  nice  savoy  cabbages  in  quarters,  and 
boil  five  minutes,  throw  them  into  plenty  of  cold  water ; 
w^hen  cold  lay  them  on  a  sieve,  squeeze  quite  dry  with  a 
cloth,  season  well  with  pepper  and  salt,  cut  out  the  stalk, 
and  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  two  onions,  three  cloves, 
a  bunch  of  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay-leaves,  one  carrot,  and 
three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  streaky  bacon ;  cover  with  a 
quart  of  white  stock,  and  let  stew  an  hour  or  more,  till  the 
stock  has  reduced  to  a  thin  glaze;  take  it  off  the  fire, 
roast  your  partridges,  take  out  the  skewers  and  string,  buiy 
them  in  the  stewed  cabbage  whilst  hot,  and  let  them  iremain 
till  wanted ;  then  butter  a  large  plain  oval  mould,  paper  it, 
and  again  butter  the  paper ;  have  ready  peeled  sixty  small 


FLANC8.  251 

button  onions,  which  stew  in  a  little  white  stock  and  sugar 
till  tender,  cut  about  a  hundred  pieces  of  carrots,  half  an 
inch  in  length,  and  the  thickness  of  a  large  quill;  stew 
them  in  the  same  manner  as  the  onions,  have  eiao  cut  of 
the  same  size  the  same  quantity  of  turnips  (do  not  stew 
them  too  much  or  they  would  be  useless),  place  a  row  of 
onions  round  the  bottom  of  the  mould,  then  above  them  a 
row  of  carrots,  slantwise,  but  one  touching  the  other,  then 
a  row  of  the  turnips,  then  carrots,  proceeding  in  like  man- 
ner till  you  reach  the  top ;  drain  the  cabbage,  and  squeeze 
it  till  it  is  somewhat  firm,  put  some  of  it  at  the  bottom  of 
the  mould  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  line  the  sides  not  quite 
so  thick,  put  the  partridges  in  the  centre  with  sUces  of  the 
bacon,  finish  filling  up  with  the  cabbage,  place  in  a  stew- 
pan  of  water  over  the  fire  to  get  hot,  but  do  not  let  the 
water  get  into  it ;  when  ready  to  serve  turn  out  on  your 
dish,  and  take  the  paper  carefully  from  it ;  have  ready  the 
following  sauce :  put  the  stock  from  the  vegetables  and  a 
little  of  the  stock  from  the  cabbage  into  a  stewpan,  add  a 
quart  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1),  boil  to  the  consistence  of 
demi-glace,  add  a  httle  sugar,  sauce  carefully  all  over,  and 
serve. 

No.  605.  Chartreuse  de  Perdreauw  a  V Imperial. 

Prepare  the  chartreuse  just  as  above,  and  when  turned 
out  have  thirty  small  quenelles  de  volaille  (No.  120),  made 
in  a  dessert-spoon ;  make  very  carefully  a  border  of  mashed 
potatoes  on  the  top  of  it  about  half  an  inch  from  the  rim, 
upon  which  dress  the  quenelles  in  the  form  of  a  crown, 
place  a  fine  larded  sweetbread  dressed  (No.  674)  in  the 
centre,  through  which  run  an  atelette  of  vegetables,  sauce 
as  in  the  last  article,  and  serve ;  the  cabbage,  if  possible, 
requires  to  be  drier  than  in  the  last. 


252  FLANCS. 

No.  606.   Chartreme  de  Perdreaux  a  la  Modeme. 

Prepare  a  chartreuse  as  before,  then  have  twenty  youn^ 
carrots  turned  in  the  shape  of  pears,  but  not  too  small,  put 
them  in  a  stewpan  with  a  Uttle  sugar  and  white  stock,  and 
boil  till  tender ;  turn  out  the  chartreuse  on  your  dish,  make 
a  thin  border  of  mashed  potatoes  on  the  top  about  half  an 
inch  from  the  rim,  cut  off  a  piece  from  the  thick  part  of 
each  carrot,  and  stand  them  upright  upon  the  potatoes,  fill 
the  centre  with  a  pint  of  fresh  boiled  green  peas  dressed  in 
pyramid,  upon  the  top  place  a  small  white  cauliflower, 
nicely  boiled,  sauce  as  before,  and  serve ;  this  makes  a  very 
pretty  dish. 

In  case  you  could  not  procure  a  mould  as  required,  you 
could  turn  your  vegetables,  and  dress  as  the  carrots  above ; 
lay  the  cabbage,  bacon,  and  partridges  in  the  centre  of  your 
dish,  dress  the  vegetables  on  mashed  potatoes  tastefully 
around,  finish  on  the  top  in  either  of  the  two  last  ways, 
sauce  the  same,  and  serve;  although  not  so  handsome  it 
takes  less  time,  and  the  exercise  of  a  httle  taste  on  the  part 
of  the  cook  will  render  it  a  very  pretty  dish. 

No.  607.  Perdreaux  a  la  Meddenbourg . 

Take  three  large  young  partridges,  draw,  and  leave  the 
skin  upon  the  neck  as  long  as  possible,  put  half  a  pound  of 
the  forcemeat  of  game  (Nol  23)  in  a  basin,  add  two  finely- 
chopped  fresh  French  plums,  two  ounces  of  chopped  tongue 
or  ham  (cooked)  some  chopped  parsley,  two  yolks  of  eggs, 
a  httle  cream,  and  a  Uttle;  grated  nutmeg,  mix  all  together, 
and  stuff  the  breasts  of  your  birds  with  it,  tie  them  up  in 
thin  shces  of  bacon,  and  in  two  or  three  sheets  of  oiled 
paper,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  half  a  pint  of  bucellas 
wine,  a  pint  of  good  stock,  two  large  onions,  an  apple,  and 
a  good  bunch  of  parsley;  place  the  stewpan  on  the  fire,  and 


¥LANCS.  263 

• 

when  it  begins  to  boil  place  it  in  a  moderate  oven  for  three 
quarters  of  an  hour,  take  the  birds  out  of  the  papers,  take 
off  the  bacon  and  place  them  on  your  dish,  keep  hot,  and 
prepare  the  following  sauce :  pass  the  stock  from  the  stew- 
pan  through  a  fine  cloth  into  another  stewpan,  skim  off  all 
the  fat  and  reduce  it  to  half,  nux  a  dessertspoonful  of  arrow- 
root with  a  glass  of  cold  stock,  put  it  into  the  stewpan,  with 
two  spoonfuls  of  tomata  sauce  (No.  87) ;  boil  till  forming  a 
demi-glace,  put  a  piece  of  toast  beneath  each  bird,  sauce 
over  and  serve ;  but  the  last  thing  before  serving  add  half  a 
spoonful  of  red  currant  jelly  to  the  sauce,  which  season  a 
httle  high. 

No.  608.  PerdreatuB  alapuree  de  ffibier. 

Proceed  exactly  as  for  the  faisan  a  la  puree  de  gibier 
(No.  600),  the  only  difference  being  that  the  partridges  will 
not  require  so  long  to  braise  as  the  pheasants. 

No.  609.  Perdreatix  trvff^  a  la  Perigord. 

Draw  three  partridges  carefully,  then  prepare  a  stuffing 
of  truffle  as  directed  for  poulardes  truffes  a  la  Ferigord 
(No.  524),  stuff  the  inside  and  breasts  well,  and  leave  them 
a  week  to  take  the  flavour  of  the  truffles ;  when  ready  to 
roast  pass  a  thin  flat  iron  skewer  through  them,  passing  it 
through  the  pinions  and  thighs,  tie  them  in  oiled  paper,  fbc 
the  skewer  to  the  spit  and  roast  them  before  a  good  fire  for 
half  an  hour,  letting  them  get  a  Uttle  colour  through  the 
paper;  in  taking  them  off  the  skewer  be  careful  not  to 
break  the  breast,  or  they  would  look  unsightly ;  dress  them 
on  a  dish  and  sauce  as  for  the  poulardes ;  serve  very  hot. 

No.  610.  Lever aut  Bauce  poivr ode. 

A  young  leveret  may  be  occasionally  served  for  a  flanc ; 
truss  it  as  for  roasting,  and  lard  the  fillets  very  fine,  roast  it 


254  FLA?(CS. 

nicely,  keeping  it  rather  underdone,  dress  it  on  your  dish, 
and  serve  with  a  sauce  poivrade  (No.  32)  round  it. 

No.  611.  Levraut  au  ju8  de  ffroseUles. 

Truss  and  lard  a  young  leveret  as  above,  tiien  prepare  a 
marinade  as  for  filet  de  boeuf  a  la  Bohemienne  (  No.  426)^ 
put  in  the  leveret  for  three  days ;  when  ready  dry  it  in  a 
cloth  and  roast  before  a  sharp  -fire,  keep  it  moist,  serve  with 
a  demi-glace  (No.  9),  in  which  you  have  put  two  spoonfuls 
of  currant  jelly,  a  little  cayenne  pepper,  and  two  dozen  of 
stoned  ohves. 

No.  612.  Lapereaux  a  la  Tavemiere. 

Tame  and  even  vnld  rabbits  are  extremely  useful  in  cook- 
ing, though  very  Uttle  used  for  flancs ;  they  may  be  served 
with  propriety  in  the  ways  I  have  here  described,  particu- 
larly in  the  country,  where  they  are  so  plentiful,  and  your 
resources  frequently  so  limited. 

Skin  and  truss  two  young  rabbits  as  for  roasting,  then 
put  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  flat  stev^an,  (large  enough 
to  contain  the  rabbits,)  cut  half  a  pound  of  mild  lean  ham 
into  large  dice,  put  them  into  the  stewpan,  vnth  the  butter, 
and  fry  them  gently  ten  minutes,  then  put  in  the  rabbits, 
put  the  cover  over  the  stewpan  and  place  it  over  a  slow  fire, 
turn  them  round  now  and  then  until  they  take  a  light- 
brovm  colour,  add  fifty  button  onions,  which  also  colour, 
take  out  the  rabbits,  add  two  ounces  of  fiour  to  the  ingre- 
dients in  the  stewpan  (mix  well)  and  a  quart  of  white  stock ; 
place  the  stewpan  over  the  fire,  keep  it  stirred  until  boiling, 
put  back  the  rabbits,  with  a  good  bunch  of  parsley,  thyme, 
bay-leaf,  and  four  cloves ;  let  it  simmer,  skim  off  the  fat, 
which  vnll  rise  to  the  top,  take  out  the  rabbits,  you  have 
previously  taken  out  the  onions  with  a  spoon  and  deposited 
them  in  a  clean  stewpan,  with  the  pieces  of  ham ;  reduce 


FLANCS.  255 

the  sauce  to  the  thickness  required,  pass  it  through  a  tam- 
mie  into  the  stewpan  containing  the  onions  and  ham>  add 
twenty  heads  of  mushrooms,  dress  your  rabbits  on  a  dish 
slantingly,  the  heads  pointing  different  ways,  sauce  over 
and  serve.  Finish  the  sauce  with  a  haison  of  two  yolks  of 
eggs  mixed  with  half  a  gill  of  cream. 

No.  613.  Lapereaux  a  la  Jardiniere. 

Procure  two  young  rabbits  and  proceed  as  in  the  last, 
but  at  the  time  you  add  the  onions  also  add  the  same 
quantity  of  pieces  of  carrot  and  turnip  cut  with  a  scoop  of 
the  same  size  as  the  onions,  skim  well,  and  when  done  take 
them  out,  put  them  as  before  in  a  clean  stewpan,  take  up 
the  rabbits,  pass  the  sauce  through  a  tammie  upon  them, 
add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar  and  a  few  heads  of  aspara- 
gus or  peas,  make  it  quite  hot ;  sauce  over  the  rabbits  and 
serve. 

No.  614.  Lapereaux  aux  petits  pots. 

Dress  the  rabbits  as  directed  for  lapereaux  a  la  tavemiere, 
but  putting  only  half  the  quantity  of  onions ;  when  you 
take  out  the  rabbits  add  a  quart  of  fresh  boiled  young  green 
peas,  (you  do  not  take  out  the  onions  as  previously,)  season 
with  a  little  sugar  and  salt,  dress  the  rabbits  on  a  dish,  and 
sauce  over ;  the  sauce  requires  to  be  rather  thick,  but  yet 
not  too  thick ;  if  too  thin  it  would  have  a  bad  appearance, 
and  if  too  thick  it  would  be  unpleasant  eating. 

No.  615.  Lapereaux  a  la  VUlageoiae. 

Skin  and  truss  two  young  rabbits,  make  a  stuflSng  of  the 
livers  as  directed  in  faisan  a  la  corsaire  (No.  544) ;  stuff  the 
rabbits  and  roast  them,  baste  them  well  whilst  roasting  by 
throwing  flour  over  them  and  moistening  with  butter,  and 
when  roasted  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  put  two  tea- 


256  FLANCS. 

spoonfuls  of  chopped  eschalots  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  small 
piece  of  butter,  pass  them  for  five  minutes  over  a  slow  fire, 
then  add  half  a  pint  of  melted  butter  (No.  71),  keep  it 
stirred  over  the  fire,  and  when  beginning  to  boil  add  two 
ounces  of  fresh  butter,  a  little  salt,  pepper,  and  the  juice  of 
a  lemon,  shake  the  stewpan  over  the  fire  till  the  butter  is 
melted ;  dress  your  rabbits  upon  a  dish,  sauce  over  and 
serve. 

No.  616.  Lapereaux  a  la  JBourgmeatre. 

Truss  and  stuff  two  very  fine  young  rabbits  as  above, 
lard  the  fillets  and  roast  a  nice  colour ;  you  have  previously 
filleted  three  young  rabbits,  take  off  the  skin  of  the  fillets 
and  lard  them  with  very  fine  bacon,  then  put  some  thin 
slices  of  bacon  and  onions  cut  in  slices  in  a  saute-pan»  put 
your  fillets  upon  them,  cover  with  white  stock,  lay  a  sheet 
of  buttered  paper  over  and  put  them  in  the  oven  for  half 
an  hour,  give  your  fillets  a  good  colour,  dress  your  rabbits  in 
the  centre,  the  fillets  around  upon  a  border  of  mashed 
potatoes,  and  serve  with  a  sauce  Soubise  (No.  47)  poured 
round. 

No  617.  LapereoMX  a  V  An^laise. 

Truss  two  young  rabbits  as  usual,  and  put  them  in  a 
stewpan,  with  a  quart  of  water  and  a  pint  of  milk,  stew 
them  half  an  hour  or  till  tender,  place  them  on  a  dish  and 
serve  them  up  covered  with  onion  sauce  (No.  47). 

No.  618,  Pate  chaud  d^ Affneau. 

Procure  an  oval  raised-pie  mould,  about  four  inches  in 
height,  five  in  breadth,  and  nine  in  length ;  then  make  the 
following  paste :  put  two  poimds  of  flour  on  your  pastiy 
slab,  make  a  hole  in  the  middle,  put  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  chopped  suet  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  in  a 


FLANCS.  257 

stewpan,  with  half  a  pint  of  water^  let  it  boil  one  minute^ 
pour  it  into  the  flour,  mix  with  a  spoon  until  cool  enough 
to  work  with  the  hands,  work  it  smooth,  and  when  nearly 
cold  roll  out  a  sheet  three  quarters  of  an  inch  in  thickness, 
with  which  line  the  mould,  pressing  the  paste  equally  at  all 
parts ;  you  have  cut  twelve  or  more  lambs'  cutlets,  leave  them 
thick  and  take  away  the  bones,  lay  the  cutlets  in  the  pie  al- 
ternately with  shces  of  potatoes  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in 
thickness  until  it  is  quite  full,  season  highly  as  you  proceed 
with  pepper,  salt,  chopped  onions,  and  chopped  parsley, 
make  a  cover  with  the  trimmings  of  the  paste,  ornament  it 
to  £Emcy,  work  up  the  edges  with  the  fingers,  and  crimp  it 
nicely  with  the  paste-nippers,  let  it  stand  two  hours  to  get 
dry,  egg  the  top  and  bake  it  three  hours  in  a  moderate 
oven ;  when  done  cut  out  the  Ud,  take  as  much  fat  from  the 
top  as  possible,  put  half  a  pint  of  good  stock  in  a  stewpan, 
with  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  and  a  small  piece  of 
glaze,  reduce  till  rather  thick,  add  a  Uttle  sugar,  pour  in  the 
sauce,  take  out  of  the  mould,  put  on  the  cover  and  serve 
very  hot ;  if  care  be  taken  in  baking  the  crust  will  be  a 
bright  yellow  colour. 

No.  619.  Pate  chaud  de  Mouton  a  r Irlandaise. 

Line  a  mould  with  paste  as  in  the  last,  fill  it  as  there 
described,  using  mutton  cutlets  instead  of  lamb,  and  more 
onions  in  the  seasoning,  give  it  half  an  hour  longer  to  bake, 
and  use  brown  instead  of  white  sauce  to  fill  it  up ;  serve  in 
the  same  manner  as  the  last. 

No.  620.  Pate  chavd  d^Eacalopea  dejUet  de  Bceuf, 

Line  a  mould  with  the  paste  as  before,  have  twenty  or 
more  pieces  of  fillet  of  beef,  in  sUces  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
in  thickness,  season  them  on  a  dish  with  pepper,  salt,  and 
onions,  dip  each  piece  in  flour,  and  grate  a  Uttle  nutmeg 

1/ 


258  FLANCS. 

over  them,  have  also  ready  twenty  thin  sUces  of  lean  ham, 
but  the  same  size  as  the  pieces  of  beef,  and  twenty  slices  of 
potatoes  one  inch  in  thickness,  put  a  layer  of  beef  at  the 
bottom  of  the  pie,  then  a  layer  of  the  ham,  then  potatoes, 
proceeding  in  like  manner  till  it  is  full,  cover  and  bake  as 
before ;  when  ready  to  serve  pour  in  a  brown  sauce  as  in 
the  last. 

No.  621.  PdU  chaud  d' Escalopes  deVeau  et  deris  deVeau. 

Line  a  mould  with  paste  as  before,  take  a  piece  of  veal 
from  the  leg,  from  which  cut  twenty-four  escalopes  the 
thickness  of  three  five-shilling-pieces,  but  rather  larger, 
have  also  two  large  throat  sweetbreads,  boil  them  in  water 
a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and  cut  them  into  escalopes  the  same 
size  as  the  veal,  cut  also  thirty  very  thin  escalopes  of  streaky 
bacon  the  same  size,  season  the  whole  very  highly  with 
pepper,  salt,  nutmeg,  chopped  parsley,  and  chopped  es- 
chalots, proceed  to  fill  the  pie,  first  lay  in  a  piece  of  veal, 
then  bacon,  then  sweetbread,  bacon  and  veal  again,  pro- 
ceeding in  like  manner  till  full,  cover  and  bake  three  hours, 
when  done  sauce  as  for  the  pate  d'agneau  and  serve.  You 
may  place  a  couple  of  bay-leaves  upon  the  top  of  each  pie 
previous  to  covering,  it  is  an  improvement  to  all,  especially 
lamb  or  veal. 

No.  622.  Pate  chaud  de  Folaille. 

Line  a  mould  with  paste  as  before,  then  cut  up  two 
chickens  into  neat  pieces,  taking  off  the  wings  with  good 
fillets,  leaving  sufficient  on  the  breast,  which  divide  in  two 
pieces,  bone  the  legs,  and  divide  the  backs  into  two,  put  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  when  it  melts 
add  your  pieces  of  chicken,  season  with  a  little  pepper,  salt, 
and  chopped  eschalots,  add.  two  bay-leaves  and  place  the 
Btewpan  twenty  minutes  over  a  very  slow  fire,  then  pom*  off 


FLANCS.  259 

the  butter  and  add  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  stew  ten 
minutes  and  pour  them  on  a  dish  till  cold,  fill  up  the  pie, 
placing  the  pieces  of  the  back  at  the  bottom,  then  the  legs, 
then  breast,  finishing  at  the  tops  with  the  wings,  have  also 
twenty  pieces  of  cooked  ham  about  the  size  of  five-shilling- 
pieces,  which  intersperse  with  the  chicken,  put  a  cover  on 
and  bake  one  hour  and  a  half  in  a  very  warm  oven,  when 
done  cut  off  the  cover  and  take  off  as  much  of  the  fat  as 
possible,  put  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (No.  7)  in  a  stewpan, 
with  four  spoonfuls  of  white  stock,  when  it  boUs  add  about 
forty  heads  of  mushrooms  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar, 
boil  ten  minutes,  finish  with  a  Uaison  of  two  yolks  of  eggs 
mixed  with  a  gill  of  cream,  pour  the  sauce  into  the  pie, 
put  on  the  cover  and  serve. 

No.  628.  Pate  c&aud  de  Pigeonneaux. 

Line  a  mould  with  paste  as  before,  then  take  six  young 
pigeons  trussed  with  their  legs  iaside,  cut  each  pigeon  in 
halves  lengthvnse,  pass  them  in  butter  the  same  as  the 
chickens,  proceeding  in  the  same  manner,  but  using  brown 
instead  of  white  sauce,  put  them  on  a  dish  to  cool,  have 
the  yolks  of  eight  hard-boiled  eggs  (which  cut  in  halves), 
and  twelve  slices  of  boiled  streaky  bacon,  lay  a  slice  of 
bacon  and  half  a  pigeon  alternately  in  the  pie,  interspersing 
the  hard-boiled  yolks  here  and  there,  when  filled  cover  and 
bake  two  hours  in  a  moderate  oven,  when  done  talce  off  the 
cover  and  as  much  fat  as  possible,  then  put  a  pint  of  brown 
sauce  (No.  1)  in  a  stewpan,  with  half  a  pint  of  good  stock 
and  an  ounce  of  glaze,  reduce  lo  two  thirds,  pour  into  the 
pie  which  cover  and  serve  as  before. 

Pates  chauds  may  be  made  of  all  kinds  of  birds  as  phea- 
sants, grouse,  partridges,  woodcocks,  snipes,  or  larks,  by 
following  either  of  the  two  last  recipes,  but  they  are  usually 
served  as  entrees,  where  I  intend  placing  them. 


260  FLANCS. 

No.  624.  Pate  chaud  de  Lapereau, 

Line  a  mould  with  paste  as  before,  then  procure  two  or 
three  young  rabbits,  according  to  the  size,  which  cut  into 
neat  pieces,  and  place  in  a  stewpan  of  boiling  water  for  one 
minute,  take  them  out,  pass  in  butter,  and  proceed  pre- 
cisely as  for  pate  chaud  de  volaille  (No.  622). 

No.  625.   Vbl-aU'Vent, 

Vol-au-vents  are  usually  served  for  entrees,  but  by  cut- 
ting one  larger  and  of  an  oval  shape  they  may  be  served  for 
flancs  with  any  of  the  garnitures  as  directed  in  the  entrees. 

No.  626.   Casserole  de  Biz, 

Wash  in  several  waters  two  pounds  of  the  best  Carolina 
rice ;  when  very  clean  put  it  into  a  stewpan,  with  two  quarts 
of  water,  half  a  pound  of  butter,  two  large  onions,  and  half 
an  ounce  of  salt,  set  on  a  fire,  and  when  boiling  place  it  to 
'  simmer  very  gently  on  a  slow  fire  for  one  hour ;  when  done 
it  must  appear  quite  dry  and  tender  to  the  finger,  take  out 
the  onions  and  mix  the  rice  well  with  a  wooden  spoon ; 
if  suflSciently  done  it  will  clog  together,  then  put  it  in  a 
mortar  and  poimd  it  well  till  it  forms  but  one  mass,  butter 
a  baking-sheet,  lay  the  rice  upon  it  and  you  will  be  able  to 
form  it  into  any  shape  you  please,  but  for  flancs  form  it  of 
an  oval  shape  in  imitation  of  a  raised  pie,  (should  the  rice 
stick  to  your  fingers  dip  them  in  cold  water,)  when  of  a 
proper  shape  and  well  elevated  cut  a  piece  of  carrot  or  tur- 
nip in  the  form  of  a  wedge,  with  which  make  impressions 
aU  round  according  to  fancy,  melt  some  butter,  and  with  a 
paste-brush  rub  it  all  over  the  rice,  put  it  in  a  very  hot 
oven  and  bake  it  a  light  yellow  colour ;  if  well  made  it  will 
retain  its  shape,  and  any  design  you  may  have  impressed 
upon  it ;  when  well  done  make  an  incision  vrith  yoiu:  knife 


(• 


PLANCS.  2R1 

half  ail  inch  from  the  edge  all  round,  and  empty  it  to  with- 
in half  an  inch  from  the  bottom ;  it  is  then  ready  to  serve 
with  any  of  the  ingredients  as  directed  in  the  following. 

No.  627.   Casserole  de  Biz  aux  queues  d^Agneau, 

Procure  six  house  lambs'  tails,  blanch  them  ten  minutes 
in  boiling  water,  then  cut  them  in  pieces  an  inch  long ; 
put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  chopped  suet  in  a  stewpan, 
with  two  onions,  a  carrot  cut  up  small,  one  turnip,  three 
bay-leaves,  six  cloves,  and  a  httle  thyme ;  pass  the  whole 
upon  a  slow  fire  ten  minutes,  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
flour  (mix  well),  two  quarts  of  white  stock,  and  a  little  salt ; 
then  add  the  tails,  let  simmer  gently  forty  minutes  or  more 
tm  tender,  take  them  out  and  drain  upon  a  clean  cloth,  put 
into  another  stewpan  a  quart  of  white  sauce  and  half  a  pint 
of  white  stock,  reduce  till  rather  thick,  then  add  the  tails, 
with  twenty  heads  of  mushrooms,  a  httle  chopped  parsley, 
pepper,  and  salt,  add  the  Uaison  from  two  yolks  of  eggs 
and  a  giU  of  cream ;  shake  it  over  the  fire,  but  do  not  let  it 
boil,  finish  with  a  little  lemon-juice,  pour  it  in  the  casserole 
and  serve. 

No.  628.  Casserole  de  Biz  au  queues  de  Veau, 

Scald  and  cut  four  calves'  tails  into  pieces  an  inch  long, 
dress  them  precisely  as  the  lambs'  tails  in  the  previous 
article,  only  allowing  them  longer  to  stew,  terminate  and 
serve  as  in  the  last. 

No.  629.   Casserole  de  Biz  atUB  pieds  dHAgneau, 

Procure  twelve  lambs'  feet,  throw  them  into  boiling  water 
for  two  minutes,  extract  the  long  bone  by  holding  the  feet 
in  a  cloth  and  moving  the  bone  gently  till  it  leaves  the 
socket ;  when  they  are  all  done  proceed  as  for  the  lamba' 


262  PLANCS. 

tails  (No.  627),  boiling  them  rather  longer,  sauoe  and  serve 
precisely  the  same. 

No.  630.   Caaaerole  de  Biz  aupieda  de  mouton. 

Procure  ten  small  sheeps*  feet,  dress  them  precisely  as 
the  lambs'  feet,  but  of  course  they  will  take  more  time  ; 
when  tender  divide  each  foot  in  two  lengthwise,  sauce  and 
serve  as  directed  for  queues  d'agneau  (No.  627).     Sheeps' 
feet,  commonly  called  sheeps'  trotters,  are  seldom  used  in 
this  country  to  any  real  advantage,  although  in  Pans  they 
have  made  the  fortunes  of  more  than  one  restaurateur; 
one  house  was  so  famed  for  them,  that  its  proprietor  named 
it  Restaurant  du  Pied  de  Mouton.     About  sixteen  yeiyrs  ago 
epicures  were  seen  from  all  parts  of  Paris  trotting  after  a 
dinner  of  trotters,  until  the  [MX>prietor  saved  an  immense 
fortune ;  but  they  are  even  now  much  thought  of  in  Paris^ 
both  for  then*  lightness  and  delicacy,  and  are  always  to  be 
had  in  any  of  the  first  houses. 

For  my  part  I  really  think  they  deserve  a  better  fate  than 
that  of  being  trotted  about  from  bar  to  bar  in  palaces  cer- 
tainly containing  the  choicest  spirits,  and  to  be  exposed  on 
a  cloth  (semi-blanche)  in  a  basket,  and  from  thence  to  the 
honest,  but  not  very  delicate  fingers  of  a  London  ooalheaver 
or  dustman ;  I  must,  however,  observe  that  it  is  not  my  desire 
to  deprive  them  of  their  luxury,  but  a  mere  wish  to  find  a 
resting-place  for  the  unfortunate  trotters  upon  the  tables 
of  the  affluent  in  this  country,  where  they  would  be  eaten 
and  admired  for  their  deUcacy. 

No.  631.   Casserole  de  Biz  a  la  Neapolitaine, 

Have  ready  a  casserole  of  rice  as  directed,  then  boil  half 
a  pound  of  riband  macaroni  in  water  ten  minutes,  strain 
it  and  put  it  in  a  stewpan,  cut  up  a  braised  fowl,  (or  the 


FLANCS.  268 

remains  of  some  poultry  from  a  previous  dinneor,)  in  as  large 
pieces  as  possible,  which  put  in  the  stewpan,  with  the  ma- 
caroni and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lean  ham,  cover  with  a 
pint  of  very  strong  beef  gravy ;  let  all  boil  together  a  few 
minutes,  then  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  grated  Parmesan 
cheese,  a  tablespoonful  of  tomata  sauce  (No.  37),  and  a 
Uttle  cayenne  pepper,  pour  it  in  the  casserole,  egg  and 
bread-crumb  the  top,  put  it  in  the  oven  twenty  minutes  and 
serve. 

No.  632.   Casserole  de  Biz  Folonaise  a  la  Koroski, 

Prepare  a  casserole  of  rice  as  before,  then  mince  the  flesh 
of  a  fowl  (or  the  remains  of  several)  with  two  ounces  of 
lean  cooked  ham  and  a  few  mushrooms,  or  truffles ;  put  two 
spoonfuls  of  chopped  onions  in  a  stewpan,  with  two  pats  of 
butter ;  stir  them  over  the  fire  two  minutes,  add  half  a 
spoonful  of  flour,  (mix  well)  and  a  quart  of  white  sauce 
(No.  7) ;  boil  altogether  a  short  time,  then  add  the  mince, 
season  with  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  finish  with  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cream,  and  pour  it  in  your  casserole ;  you  have 
previously  boiled  eight  eggs  in  water  five  minutes,  then  put 
them  in  cold  water,  peel  off  the  shells,  warm  them  again  in 
broth,  and  dress  them  on  the  mince  at  equal  distances,  the 
.  ends  pointing  to  the  centre ;  have  also  eight  pieces  of  cook- 
ed tongue  cut  in  the  shape  of  cockscombs,  warm  them  and 
place  a  piece  upright  between  each  egg ;  have  ready  a  nice 
larded  sweetbread,  nicely  cooked,  which  place  in  the  centre, 
glaze  the  sweetbread  and  tongue,  and  pour  a  little  white 
sauce  over  the  eggs ;  serve  very  hot. 

No.  633.   Casserole  de  Biz  a  la  Boyale. 

Prepare  a  casserole  of  rice,  mince  a  fowl,  with  ham  and 
truffles,  and  proceed  as  in  the  last ;  when  done  fill  your 


264  rLANCS. 

casserole ;  have  ready  twelve  plovers'  e^s,  peel  off  the  shells, 
warm  them  in  broth,  and  place  them  round  on  the  minoe 
points  upwards  at  equal  distances,  apart ;  have  previously 
boiled  some  nice  asparagus,  cut  off  the  heads  about  an  inch 
and  a  half  in  length,  and  stand  a  bunch  of  five  or  six  heads 
between  each  plover's  egg,  making  them  stand  a  Uttle  above 
the  cggs;  have  also  twelve  very  fine  cockscombs  ready 
cooked  (see  No.  128),  which  dress  in  the  middle,  put  fifteen 
tablespoonfuls  of  white  sauce  in  a  stewpan,  and  when  boil- 
ing add  two  pats  of  butter  and  a  Uttle  lemon-juice,  finish 
with  a  liaison  of  one  yolk  of  egg,  pour  over  the  cockscombs 
and  serve. 

No.  684.  Casserole  de  Riz  a  la  Chevaliere. 

Prepare  a  casserole  as  before,  prepare  two  chickens  as 
directed  in  the  entree  a  la  chevaliere  (No.  818) ;  fill  your 
casserole,  by  placing  the  pieces  of  back  at  the  bottom,  then 
the  legs  and  pinions,  pour  the  sauce  and  garniture  over, 
dress  the  four  larded  fillets  to  meet  in  a  point,  and  finish 
by  placing  a  small  white  head  of  cauliflower,  nicely  boiled, 
on  the  top,  in  the  centre  of  the  fiUets,  and  serve. 

When  you  serve  a  dinner  where  four  entrees  and  two 
flancs  are  required,  it  is  the  object  of  the  host  to  see  his 
table  well  garnished;  and  no  hors-d'oeuvres  being  served, 
you  may  make  flancs  of  them,  although,  I  must  repeat, 
flancs  ought  to  be  composed  of  one  solid  piece,  or,  at  any 
rate,  not  more  than  two  or  three  pieces,  but  circumstances 
may  require  a  deviation  from  this  rule ;  I  have  therefore 
given  a  list  of  those  hors-d'oeuvres  which  may  be  used  tor 
flancs,  by  adding  to  the  number  required  for  a  dish,  and 
making  them  rather  larger ;  the  croustades  de  beurre  and 
timbales  must  be  dressed  in  a  circle  on  a  border  of  mashed 
potatoes,  and  the  petits  vol-au-vents  in  pyramid  on  a  napkin. 


FLANCS.  265 

I  will  here  give  but  the  list ;  for  directions  you  must  refer 
to  the  chapter  devoted  to  Hors-d'oeuvres. 
Croustade  de  beurre  aux  huitres. 
Do.        aux  laitanoes  de  maquereaux. 
Do.        puree  de  volaille. 
Do.  puree  de  gibier. 

Petits  timbales  aux  0Bufi9  de  pluviers. 
Do.  de  volaille  aux  truffes. 

Do.  puree  de  riz  de  veau. 

Do.  quenelles  de  gibier. 

Petits  vol-au-vents  aux  huitres. 
Do.  aux  filets  de  soles*^ 

Da  de  homard. 

Do.  of  crab. 


266 


£NTRE£8. 


Entries  require  to  be  small  and  elegant,  as  well  as  tasty ; 
those  which  can  be  dressed  in  a  crown  like  cotelettes,  que- 
nelles, or  fillets  of  any  description,  are  preferable,  and  more 
graceful,  the  garniture  being  placed  in  the  centre ;  they 
are  also  more  likely  to  be  partaken  of  on  account  of  the 
facility  of  serving,  they  being  ahready  carved,  and  much 
better  than  large  pieces,  such  as  whole  fowls,  vol-au-vents, 
or  pates  chauds ;  where  you  require  flancs,  by  all  means 
reserve  them  for  that  purpose ;  but  in  a  dinner  of  four 
entrees  only,  you  require  to  send  two  entrees  Ught,  and 
two  (what  I  terra)  solid,  for  the  sake  of  variety,  for  if  you 
had  four  light  entrees  upon  the  table  without  flancs,  there 
would  not  appear  sufficient  dinner  for  the  assembled  guests, 
but  the  solid  entrees  may  be  made  to  look  exceedingly 
light  if  carried  to  a  height  corresponding  to  their  breadth ; 
in  dishing  your  entrees  always  allow  an  inch  between  the 
entree  and  the  rim  of  the  dish,  or  if  the  dishes  are  large 
leave  more  space ;  the  round  entree  dishes  are  the  most 
preferable,  and  should  not  be  more  than  an  inch  and  a  half, 
or  less  than  an  inch  in  depth. 

No.  635.   Of  Beef  for  Entreea. 

Of  all  kinds  of  butchers'  meat,  beef,  though  so  useful  in 
cooking,  presents  the  least  variation  for  entrees,  the  fillet 
being  the  only  part  that  can  be  used  to  any  advantage. 

No.  636.  Escalopea  de  FUet  de  Bceuf  a  la  Reform. 

Take  out  the  fillet  from  beneath  a  rump  of  beef,  take  oflF 
all  the  fat,  and  cut  it  into*  slices  (lengthwise)  half  an  inch 


ENTRSES.  267 

in  thickness,  beat  them  well  with  the  cutlet-bat,  which 
previously  dip  in  water,  then  cut  them  into  ten  or  twelve 
escalopes,  the  size  and  shape  of  fillets  of  chidkens,  lay  each 
piece  upon  the  table,  season  with  pepper,  salt,  and  a  httle 
chopped  eschalots,  cut  two  very  thin  slices  of  fat  bacon  to 
each  escalope  of  beef,  trim  the  bacon  to  the  same  size  and 
shape,  egg  over  the  escalopes  of  beef,  and  stick  a  piece  of 
the  bacon  upon  each  side  of  them,  then  egg  all  over  and 
throw  them  into  a  dish  of  bread-crumbs  mixed  with  chopped 
lean  cooked  ham ;  take  them  out,  beat  hghtly  with  your 
knife,  put  a  httle  oil  in  a  saute-pan,  place  it  over  a  mo- 
derate fire,  when  quite  hot  put  in  your  escalopes,  fry  a  nice 
colour,  and  dress  in  crown  upon  a  thin  border  of  mashed 
potatoes,  glaze  nicely;  sauce  over  with  a  sauce  refbrme 
(No.  35),  and  serve. 

No.  687.  Hscalopes  de  FUet  de  Basuf  a  la  Gotha, 

Cut  twelve  escalopes  of  beef  as  described  in  the  last, 
scrape  a  quarter  of  a  poimd  of  fat  bacon,  melt  it  in  a  stew- 
pan,  and  pass  it  through  a  sieve  into  a  well-tinned  saut6- 
pan,  then  lay  in  your  escalopes,  season  them  with  a  table- 
spoonfiil  of  chopped  eschalots,  and  a  httle  pepper  and  salt, 
pass  them  over  the  fire  five  minutes,  and  leave  them  to 
get  cold  in  the  saute-pan ;  you  have  procured  half  a  pound 
of  pork  sausage-meat,  which  place  in  a  mortar,  add  to  it 
three  tablespoonfiils  of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  a  httle  chopped 
parsley,  also  a  httle  thyme,  and  one  bay-leaf,  chopped  very 
fine,  pound  all  well  together  and  mix  it  with  one  egg ; 
you  have  also  procured  a  pig's  caul,  cut  it  in  twelve  square 
pieces,  each  the  size  of  a  small  hand,  lay  a  httle  of  the 
sausage-meat  in  the  centre  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness, 
upon  which  lay  one  of  the  escalopes,  with  the  bacon  and 
seasoning  which  is  attached,  cover  with  a  little  more  x)f  the 
sausage-meat  and  wrap  them  up  in  the  caul,  keeping  the 


268  ENTR£ES. 

same  shape  as  the  pieces  of  beef  and  as  flat  as  you  can, 
proceed  in  like  manner  till  they  are  all  finished ;  put  them 
in  a  cool  place  ten  minutes,  before  serving  put  them  over 
a  good  fire  upon  a  gridiron,  broil  them  a  nice  coloor,  dress 
them  in  a  crown,  fill  the  centre  with  some  very  white  stewed 
choucroute  (No.  116),  and  serve  very  hot. 

No.  638.  Escalopes  de  Filet  de  Boeuf  a  la  Portugaise. 

Prepare  twelve  escalopes  of  beef  as  before,  and  cook 
them  precisely  as  in  the  last;  have  ready  prepared  two 
Portugal  onions,  which  peel  and  blanch  ten  minutes  in  boil- 
ing water,  then  put  them  into  a  stewpan  just  large  enough 
to  contain  them,  cover  vrith  some  white  veal  stock,  add  a 
bunch  of  parsley,  and  stew  for  an  houror  more  tiU  quite  tender, 
the  smallest  one  vnll  of  course  be  the  first  done,  take  it  off 
and  keep  it  hot  till  the  second  one  is  done,  then  place  the 
largest  upon  a  piece  of  mashed  potatoes  in  the  centre  of 
your  dish,  dress  the  escalopes  around  upon  a  small  border  of 
mashed  potatoes,  the  points  inclining  inwards ;  dress  the 
smaller  onion  upon  the  krger,  and  run  a  silver  attdet 
through  them  both ;  pass  the  stock  the  onions  were  stewed 
in  through  a  tammie  into  another  stewpan,  reduce  it  to  a 
demi-glace,  skim  it  well,  add  four  tablespoonfuls  of  brown 
sauce  (No.  1),  boil  altogether  a  minute,  sauce  over  and 
serve. 

No.  639.  Escalopes  de  Filets  de  Basufa  la  Nemours. 

Cut  twenty-four  escalopes  of  beef  as  before,  but  not  half 
so  thick,  put  four  tablespoonfuls  of  forcemeat  (No.  120)  in 
a  basin  with  two  spoonfuls  of  chopped  lean  ham  and  the 
yolk  of  an  egg,  mix  well  together,  then  lay  twelve  of  the 
escalopes  of  beef  upon  the  table,  put  a  little  of  the  force- 
meat on  each,  spread  it  all  over  with  a  knife,  lay  a  very  thin 
slice  of  cooked  ham^  fat  and  lean,  upon  each,  spread  a  little 


ENTREES.  269 

more  of  the  forcemeat  over,  then  lay  one  of  the  other  twelve 
escalopes  upon  each,  season  with  a  Uttle  pepper  and  salt ; 
e^  over  with  a  paste-brash,  and  throw  them  into  bread- 
crumbs and  chopped  parsley  mixed,  take  them  out,  beat 
lightly  with  your  knife,  and  fry  carefully  in  a  saute-pan  with 
lard,  dress  them  in  a  crown,  glaze  and  have  ready  the  fol- 
lowing sauce :  put  an  ounce  of  glaze  in  a  saute-pan,  witli 
two  spoonfiils  of  broth  and  two  of  white  sauce ;  when  boil- 
ing, add  half  an  ounce  of  veiy  firesh  butter,  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  sugar,  and  a  Uttle  lemon-juice  (do  not  let  it  boil  after 
you  have  put  in  the  butter),  sauce  over  and  serve. 

No.  640.  Escalopes  de  Filet  de  BoBuf  a  VOstende. 

Cut  twenty  escalopes  as  in  the  last  article,  then  blanch 
and  beard  two  or  three  dozen  of  Ostend  or  small  oysters, 
and  cut  them  up  in  small  dice,  then  put  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  chopped  onions  in  a  stewpan  with  a  small  piece  of  butter, 
pass  them  over  the  fire  three  minutes,  add  half  a  table- 
spoonful  of  flour  (mix  well),  four  tablespoonfuls  of  the  juice 
of  the  oysters,  and  four  of  white  sauce,  boil  altogether  five 
minutes,  keeping  it  stirred,  then  add  the  oysters  with  a 
Uttle  essence  of  anchovies  and  cayenne  pepper;  place  it 
again  on  the  fire,  and  just  as  it  begins  to  boil  add  the  yolk 
of  an  egg,  stir  it  weU  in  and  set  it  on  a  dish  to  cool,  then 
lay  ten  of  the  escalopes  upon  the  table,  and  spread  a  Uttle 
of  the  above  upon  each,  cover  the  ten  other  escalopes  over 
them,  season  with  a  Uttle  pepper  and  salt,  egg,  bread- 
crumb, and  fry  as  in  the  last ;  glaze,  dress  them  in  crown, 
and  have  ready  the  foUowing  sauce :  put  half  an  ounce  of 
glaze  in  a  stewpan  with  six  tablespoonfuls  of  good  stock 
and  four  of  brown  sauce,  place  it  on  the  fire,  and  when  it 
boils  add  half  an  ounce  of  anchovy  butter,  pour  the  sauce  in 
the  dish  and  serve. 


270  RNTRF.ES. 

No.  641.  Escalopes  de  Filet  de  Boeuf  pique  a  la  Chasseur. 

Cut  ten  escalopes  as  described  for  a  la  reform,  but  rather 
thicker,  lard  each  piece  with  bacon  one  inch  long  and  nar- 
row in  proportion,  but  do  not  let  the  bacon  show  far  out  of 
the  beef,  then  prepare  two  quarts  of  marinade  (see  filet  de 
hceuf  a  la  Bohemienne,  No.  426) ;  lay  your  escalopes  in  a 
dish,  and  strain  the  marinade  over,  let  them  remain  about 
twenty-four  hours,  take  them  out  and  lay  them  on  a  cloth, 
cover  the  bottom  of  the  saute-pan  with  thin  slices  of  fat 
bacon,  lay  the  escalopes  over,  add  a  httle  of  the  liquor, 
but  not  sufficient  to  cover  them ;  place  a  sheet  of  buttered 
paper  over  the  saute-pan  and  put  them  in  a  slow  oven  for 
half  an  hour  or  more,  moisten  them  now  and  then  with 
their  stock,  and  when  nearly  done  glaze  and  give  them 
a  little  colour  with  the  salamander,  take  them  out,  drain  on 
a  cloth,  and  dress  in  crown  upon  a  border  of  mashed 
potatoes ;  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  pass  the  stock 
they  were  cooked  in  through  a  tammie  into  a  stewpan,  boil 
it  at  the  comer  of  the  stove,  skim  off  all  the  grease,  add 
half  a  pint  of  brown  sauce,  and  reduce  it  till  it  forms  a  good 
demi-glaze,  then  add  a  spoonful  of  currant  jelly  and  a  pat 
of  butter,  mix  it  quickly  and  sauce  over,  season  a  Uttle  more 
if  required. 

No.  642.   Other  Entrees  of  Fillets  of  Beef  . 

Take  the  best  part  of  a  fillet  of  beef,  that  is,  about  the 
middle,  cut  eighteen  slices  three  quarters  of  inch  in  thick- 
ness, and  beat  them  with  your  small  chopper  to  the  thick- 
ness of  half  an  inch ;  cut  each  slice  into  an  oval  piece,  cut 
also  six  oval  pieces  of  suet  from  the  kidney,  about  half  the 
size,  and  not  so  thick  as  the  fillet,  dip  the  pieces  of  fillet  in 
flour,  previously  seasoning  them  vrith  pepper  and  salt ;  firy 
in  clarified  butter  in  a  saute-pan  over  a  sharp  fire,  egg  and 


ENTREES.  271 

bread-cromb  the  pieces  of  fat,  fiy  them  after  the  pieces  of 
Met,  dress  them  alternately  with  the  fillets  in  a  crown, 
and  serve  with  any  of  the  following  sauces : 

Sauce  piquante  (No.  27), 

Do.     a  ritalienne  (No.  30), 

Do.     tomate  (No.  37), 

Do.     poivrade  (No.  32), 

Do.  a  la  HoUandaise  (No.  66), 
or  any  of  the  sauces  described  for  fillets  of  beef  in  the  'Re- 
moves, but  of  course  preparing  a  smaller  quantity ;  you  can 
also  convert  the  remains  of  a  fillet  of  beef  left  fi:om  a  re- 
move into  an  entree,  by  cutting  it  into  slices  and  trimming 
it  into  oval  pieces,  not  cutting  the  larded  part;  lay  the 
pieces  in  a  saute-pan  and  just  cover  them  with  a  good  strong 
gravy,  place  a  sheet  of  paper  over,  and  put  them  in  a  mo- 
derate oven  till  they  are  quite  hot  through,  take  them  out 
and  serve  with  any  of  the  sauces  mentioned  for  fillets  of 
beef  in  the  Removes. 

No.  643.  AiptUlette  de  Langue  de  Bosuf  en  PapUlote. 

Boil  a  salt  ox-tongue  three  hours,  and  when  cold  cut  ten 
pieces  from  the  best  part,  of  the  shape  of  a  fillet  of  fowl, 
and  half  an  inch  in  thickness,  then  put  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  chopped  onions  in  a  saute-pan  with  one  of  oil,  place  the 
pan  over  a  sharp  fire,  keeping  it  stirred  vfith  a  wooden 
spoon ;  when  the  onions  become  tender  (but  not  to  change 
colour)  pour  off  all  the  oil,  add  a  spoonful  of  chopped 
mushrooms,  one  of  chopped  parsley,  and  a  pint  of  white 
sauce  (No.  7),  moisten  with  a  little  white  stock,  and  reduce 
it  till  it  becomes  very  thick,  then  add  the  piec^  of  tongue, 
toss  over  in.  the  sauce,  and  leave  them  to  get  cold ;  have  cut 
ten  pieces  .of  white  paper  in  the  shape  of  hearts,  and  large 
enough  to  fold  a  piece  of  the  tongue  in  each,  spread  a  little 
of  the  cold  sauce  upon  the  paper,  then  a  slice  of  the  tongue^ 


272  SN'KEES. 

which  cover  with  more  of  the  sauce,  twist  up  the  papers 
and  broil  them  gradually  ten  minutes,  serve  them  in  the 
papers  dressed  in  a  crown,  with  a  sauce  Italienne  (No.  30) 
under  them ;  the  tongues  of  any  other  animals,  whether 
pickled  or  not,  may  be  served  in  this  manner,  but  of 
course  the  sauce  must  be  more  highly  seasoned  for  the  fresh 
tongue  than  for  the  pickled  one. 

No.  644.  Ihrban  de  Langue  de  Bmif  a  VEcarlate, 

Boil  two  tongues  separately,  one  pickled  very  red,  and 
the  other  not  pickled ;  cut  six:  pieces  from  the  thick  part  of 
each,  about  the  size  and  shape  of  fillets  of  fowl,  [dace  the 
twelve  pieces  in  a  saute-pan  with  an  ounce  of  glaze  and 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  consomme  (No.  134),  place  over  the 
fire,  and  let  it  remain  till  the  pieces  are  quite  hot,  but  do 
not  let  it  boil ;  dress  them  alternately  on  a  border  of  mashed 
potatoes  in  crown,  and  prepare  a  sauce  thus:  place  the 
saute-pan  again  on  the  fire,  and  add  ten  tablespoonfuls  of 
tomata  sauce  (No.  37),  with  four  of  consomme  and  a  little 
sugar,  boil  a  few  minutes,  pour  over  the  tongue,  glaze  the 
red  pieces,  and  serve. 

No.  645.  Turban  de  Lanffiie  de  B<xuf  a  la  Jardiniere, 

Proceed  with  the  tongues  precisely  as  in  the  last,  and 
prepare  the  following  sauce  :  cut  about  fifty  scoops  of 
carrots  and  fifty  of  turnips  (with  an  iron  scoop)  a  little 
larger  than  a  pea,  peel  also  forty  very  small  onions,  put 
them  altogether  in  a  stewpan  with  an  ounce  of  butter  and 
a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  powdered  sugar,  pass  them  for  ten 
minutes  over,  a  sharp  fire,  tossing  them  over  now  and  then ; 
add  half  a  pint  of  good  white  stock,  let  them  stew  till 
tender  and  the  broth  is  reduced  to  glaze,  then  turn  them  into 
the  saute-pan  with  the  stock  you  warmed  the  tongue  in, 
stir  all  round  together,  dress  the  vegetables  in  the  centre, 


£NTRE£S.  273 

pour  the  glaze  over  the  tongue,  and  serve ;  if  the  carrots  are 
old  they  require  to  be  stewed  separately,  as  they  take  so 
much  longer  than  the  turnip  or  onion. 

No.  646.  Turban  de  Langue  de  Boeuf^  sauce  piquante. 

Prepare  twelve  pieces  of  tongue  as  before,  either  pickled 
or  fresh,  dress  them  round  upon  your  dish,  put  a  pint  of 
sauce  piquante  (No.  27)  in  the  saute-pan  with  a  little  sugar, 
boil  altogether  a  minute,  sauce  over,  and  serve  immediately ; 
you  can  also  serve  dressed  spinach  or  endive  (Nos.  106 
and  119)  with  it ;  if  you  serve  an  entree  of  pickled  tongue, 
it  should  be  placed  near  an  entree  of  fowl  or  veal,  or  near 
to  a  remove  of  the  same  description,  with  which  they  eat 
much  better,  and  for  entrees  of  fresh  tongue,  season  the 
sauces  rather  high. 

No.  647.  Queues  de  Bosuf  aux  navets  au  hmn. 

A  few  very  nice  entrees  may  be  made  of  ox-taik ;  they 
certainly  do  not  make  handsome  ones,  but  their  delicate 
flavour  supplies  their  deficiency  in  appearance. 

For  one  entree  take  two  fine  taUs,  cut  them  at  the  joints 
into  pieces,  or  saw  them  into  pieces  an  inch  thick,  which 
last  way  in  my  opinion  is  best,  the  pieces  not  being  so 
clumsy;  when  cut  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  three 
large  onions,  one  carrot,  one  turnip,  six  cloves,  a  blade  of 
mace,  four  bay-leaves,  four  sprigs  of  thyme,  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  salt ;  cover  them  with  second  stock  or  water, 
place  the  stewpan  over  the  fire,  and  let  it  boil  at  the  comer 
till  the  pieces  are  tender,  and  leave  the  bone  easily ;  when 
done  lay  them  on  a  cloth  to  drain,  put  a  little  mashed  po* 
tatoes  upon  the  bottom  of  your  dish,  build  up  the  pieces 
pyramidicaUy,  and  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  scoop 
fifty  pieces  of  turnips  the  size  of  small  marbles,  put  them 
in  a  stewpan  with  half  a  tablespoonful  of  powdered  sugar 

18 


274  ENTREES, 

and  half  an  ounce  of  butter,  pass  them  ten  minutes  over  a 
sharp  fire,  add  a  pint  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1)  and  a  few 
tablespoonfuls  of  broth  or  brown  gravy  (No.  135),  with  a 
bunch  of  parsley  and  a  bay-leaf,  let  them  simmer  at  the 
comer  of  the  stove  until  the  turnips  are  tender,  take  them 
out  with  a  colander  spoon  and  put  them  into  a  clean  steiv- 
pan,  reduce  and  skim  the  sauce  well,  and  when  of  a  proper 
thickness,  pass  it  through  a  tammie  over  the  turnips,  make 
all  hot  together,  sauce  over  the  tails,  and  serve. 

No.  648.   Queues  de  Bmufa  la  Jardiniere. 

Cook  and  dress  the  tails  as  before,  then  cut  some  carrots 
and  turnips  with  button  onions,  as  directed  for  the  tongue 
a  la  jardiniere  (No.  645),  pass  them  in  a  stewpan,  with  a 
little  butter  and  powdered  sugar,  ten  minutes  over  a  sharp 
fire,  add  a  pint  of  brown  sauce,  with  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of 
stock,  boil  on  the  comer  of  the  stove  (skim  well)  until  the 
vegetables  are  tender,  and  the  sauce  attains  a  good  consist- 
ency ;  season  with  a  httle  salt  and  sugar  if  required,  sauce 
over,  and  serve. 

No.  649.   Queues  de  Bomf  sauce  aux  comicAons. 

Cook  and  dress  the  tails  as  before,  have  ready  a  quart  of 
sauce  au  jus  d'echalotte  (No.  16),  but  not  quite  so  acid  as 
there  directed,  reduce  till  rather  thick ;  have  ready  a  good 
tablespoonfiil  of  chopped  gherkins,  and  when  the  sauce  is 
boiling  throw  them  in,  season  with  a  little  sugar  and  salt, 
sauce  over,  and  serve.  The  sauce  requires  to  be  thick 
enough  to  adhere  to  the  pieces  of  tails. 

No.  650.   Queues  de  Bcevf  en  currie. 

Cook  the  tails  as  before,  have  ready  about  a  quart  of 
currie  sauce  (No.  46),  moisten  it  with  twenty  spoonfuls  of 
stock,  stir  in  a  stewpan  over  the  fire,  and  reduce  it  till  it 


ENTREES.  275 

adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon ;  then  put  in  your  ox-tails, 
and  stand  the  stewpan  in  a  bain  marie  till  wanted,  dress 
them  in  pyramid  upon  your  dish,  add  twenty  mushrooms 
to  the  sauce,  which  boil  and  skim,  pour  over,  and  serve 
with  some  IxHled  rice  very  dry  (No.  129)  upon  a  separate 
dish,  to  be  placed  on  the  side  table. 

No.  651.   Queues  de  Basufa  la  Sicilienne. 

Cook  the  tails  as  before,  select  ten  of  the  best  pieces, 
which  drain  well  upon  a  cloth,  have  ready  prepared  about 
half  a  pint  of  sauce  Durcelle  (No.  704),  let  it  get  cold,  then 
spread  some  over  each  piece  of  tail  to  entirely  cover  it,  egg 
and  bread-crumb,  and  place  them  in  a  warm  oven  twenty 
minutes,  salamander  a  nice  brown  colour,  dress  in  pyramid 
on  your  dish,  and  serve  with  some  sauce  aux  fines  herbes 
(No.  26)  round. 

No.  652.   Queues  de  Bosuf  a  la  Marseillaise. 

Cook  and  select  ten  of  the  best  pieces  as  above,  but  in- 
stead of  surrounding  them  with  a  sauce  Durcelle  spread  a 
puree  of  onions,  as  for  cotelettes  a  la  Provengale  (No.  701), 
a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness  over  them,  egg  and  bread- 
crumb twice  each,  and  just  before  serving  fry  in  very  hot 
lard ;  then  put  a  pint  of  brown  sauce  in  a  stewpan,  vrith  a 
quarter  of  a  pint  of  consomme  (No.  134),  and  a  httle  piece 
of  scraped  garlic  the  size  of  a  pea ;  reduce  and  skim  till  be- 
coming a  nice  demi-glace,  dress  in  pyramid,  and  pour  the 
sauce  round. 

No.  653.  To  prepare  and  dress  Palates  of  Beef  . 

Palates  of  beef,  if  properly  dressed,  are  very  delicate  eat- 
ings beiug  of  a  gelatinous  substance,  they  are  much  to  be 
recommended;  the  reason,  I  believe,  they  are  so  seldom 
used,  is  the  difficulty  of  giving  them  a  gracefol  appearance 


270  ENTREES. 

in  the  dish ;  to  obviate  which,  I  have  introduced  one  or  two 
new  receipts ;  I  never  expect  it  will  be  a  fashionable  dish, 
yet  I  think  they  are  likely  to  bring  them  more  in  vogue. 

For  one  entree  take  four  palates,  put  them  in  a  large 
stewpan  with  lukewarm  water  for  four  or  five  hours  to  dis- 
gorge, then  pour  off  the  water,  cover  again  with  firesh  water 
and  put  them  on  the  fire  till  the  palates  begin  to  get  hard, 
take  one  out  and  put  it  in  cold  water,  scrape  it  with  a  knife, 
and  if  the  skin  comes  off  easily,  take  out  the  rest,  but  if 
not  leave  them  a  little  longer,  scrape  them  until  you  have 
got  off  all  the  skin,  and  nothing  but  the  white,  half-trans- 
parent substance  remains,  when  done,  prepare  a  white  stock 
(No.  133),  in  which  boil  them  three  or  four  hours  till  very 
tender ;  try  them  with  a  knife,  take  them  up  and  lay  them 
flat  upon  a  dish,  put  a  Utile  of  the  stock  in  the  dish  with 
them,  then  place  another  dish  of  the  same  size  over  them, 
and  let  them  remain  till  quite  cold,  they  are  then  ready  for 
use. 

No.  654.  Palates  de  Bosuf  a  la  Ravigote, 

Having  prepared  four  palates  as  in  the  last,  cut  each 
in  three,  of  an  oval  shape,  each  piece  to  be  about  the  size 
of  a  fillet  of  fowl,  then  put  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  escha- 
lots in  a  stewpan  with  a  very  small  piece  of  butter,  stir  a 
few  minutes  over  a  slow  fire,  add  a  quart  of  white  sauce 
(No.  7),  and  reduce  it  till  becoming  thick,  keeping  it  stirred, 
then  take  it  off  the  fire,  add  the  yolk  of  two  eggs,  stir  very 
quickly,  and  season  with  a  little  pepper,  salt,  and  chopped 
parsley ;  then  take  each  piece  of  palate  singly  on  a  fork  €md 
dip  in  the  sauce,  when  well  covered  lay  it  on  a  dish  to  get 
cold ;  when  all  done,  and  haK  an  hour  before  dinner-time,  dip 
them  into  three  eggs  well  beaten  together,  then  into  bread- 
crumbs, then  into  the  eggs  and  bread-crumbs  again,  beat 
lightly  with  a  knife,  and  fiy  them  a  nice  colour  in  veiy 


ENTREES.  277 

hot  lard ;  serve  with  a  sauce  ravigote  (No.  44)  under,  and 
dress  them  in  crown  upon  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes. 

No.  655.  Attelets  de  Palates  de  Bceuf. 

Have  four  palates  prepared,  which  cut  into  thirty  pieces 
with  a  round  cutter,  the  size  of  a  shilling,  dip  each  piece 
into  sauce,  but  a  little  thinner  than  above,  and  lay  them  on 
a  dish  to  cool ;  cut  twenty  pieces  of  dressed  tongue  of  the 
same  size,  and  twenty  shces  of  large  truffles,  with  twenty 
of  mushrooms,  then  have  eight  small  silver  skewers  (or 
attelets),  upon  which  place  the  pieces  of  palates,  placing 
either  a  slice  of  tongue,  truffle,  or  mushroom  between  each ; 
when  you  have  stuck  them  all  on  the  skewers,  have  a  Uttle 
of  the  sauce  you  dipped  the  palates  in,  spread  a  Uttle  over 
the  crevices  between  to  make  them  look  Uke  one,  dip  each 
attelet  in  eggs  and  bread-crumbs  twice  over,  and  fry  a  nice 
colour  in  hot  lard ;  dress  them  three  at  the  bottom,  then 
three  above,  the  reverse  of  the  others  to  form  a  square,  and 
the  other  two  across,  garnish  with  plenty  of  fried  parsley, 
and  serve  very  hot. 

No.  656.  Palgtea  de  Bosuf  a  la  Fivandiere. 

Proceed,  fiy,  and  dress  them  as  directed  for  a  la  ravi- 
gote ;  serve  with  the  foUovnng  sauce :  chop  two  large 
onions  very  fine  and  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  an  ounce 
of  butter,  place  them  over  the  fire,  keeping  stirred  till  they 
become  rather  yellow,  then  pour  ofl*  as  much  butter  as  you 
can ;  add  a  glass  of  port  wine  and  a  piece  of  glaze  the  size 
of  a  walnut,  let  simmer  five  minutes,  add  twelve  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  brown  sauce  and  six  of  consonmae  (No.  1 34),  reduce 
till  it  adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  season  with  a  little 
cayenne  pepper  and  sugar,  pour  the  sauce  in  the  centre  and 
round  your  palates,  have  a  good  handful  of  fried  parsley, 
which  place  in  a  pyramid  in  the  centre,  and  serve  very  hot. 


278  BNTKSS8. 

No.  657.  liirban  de  Palate  de  Bosuf  au  ^atin. 

Prepare  four  palates  of  beef  as  before,  which  cut  into 
twelve  oval  pieces,  have  ready  some  forcemeat  (No.  120), 
place  a  Uttle  on  the  bottom  of  a  saute-pan  in  a  circle-  (the  size 
you  require  your  entree),  then  cover  each  piece  of  palate 
with  the  remainder,  and  dress  them  in  a  crown  upon 
the  forcemeat  in  the  saute-pan;  egg  and  bread-crumb, 
place  them  in  a  moderate  oven  for  three  quarters  of  an 
hour,  if  getting  too  much  colour  cover  some  paper  over ; 
when  done,  detach  it  from  the  saute-pan  vnth  a  thin  long 
knife,  and  with  a  fish-slice  remove  it  into  your  dish,  sauce 
over  with  a  sauce  Italienne  (No.  30),  and  serve.  Should 
you  have  a  silver  dish  for  au  gratins,  it  would  be  preferable 
to  dress  it  upon  that,  as  it  would  not  require  moving. 

No.  658.  Vbl-at^vent  de  Palates  de  Bceuf. 

Make  a  vol-au-vent  as  described  (No.  1140),  have  ready 
prepared  four  palates,  which  cut  into  pieces  v«dth  a  round 
cutter  the  size  of  half-a-crown,  put  them  into  a  stewpan 
with  ten  mushrooms,  a  quart  of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  and 
six  spoonfuls  of  white  stock  ;  when  boiling,  add  a  bunch  of 
parsley,  let  simmer  on  the  comer  of  the  stove  half  an  hour, 
skim,  take  out  the  parsley  if  too  thick,  add  a  httle  more 
stock,  throw  in  a  pat  of  butter,  a  little  chopped  parsley, 
pepper,  salt,  sugar,  and  a  little  lemon-juice,  finish  with 
a  Uaison  of  two  yolks  of  eggs,  let  it  set  over  the  fire,  but  not 
boil,  fill  the  vol-au-vent  and  serve. 

It  may  be  served  also  in  a  casserole  of  rice  (No.  626), 
or  flat,  as  a  blanquette,  in  an  entree-dish  garnished  with 
croutons  of  bread. 

No.  659.  Palates  de  Boeuf  en  Papillote. 
Have  prepared  four  palates,  which  cut  into  twelve  oval 


ENTREES.  279 

pieces,  put  two  tablespoonfols  of  salad-oil  in  a  deep  saute- 
pan,  with  four  of  chopped  onions,  stir  with  a  wooden  spoon 
five  minutes  over  a  sharp  fire,  then  pour  off  as  much  of  the 
<h1  as  possible,  add  a  quart  of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  a  table- 
spoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  and  one  of  chopped  mush- 
rooms, with  six  of  white  stock,  boil  altogether  five  minutes, 
keeping  it  stirred ;  add  a  httle  grated  nutmeg,  then  put  in 
your  pieces  of  palates,  boil  a  few  minutes  longer,  and  turn 
the  whole  on  a  dish  to  get  cold ;  finish  dressing,  and  serve 
as  directed  for  aiguillettes  de  langue  de  boeuf  (No.  643). 

No.  660.  Turban  de  Tete  de  Veau  en  Tortue. 

CSook  and  prepare  a  calf's  head  as  directed  in  the  Re- 
moves (No.  462);  only  for  entrees  you  must  cut  much 
smaller  pieces,  and  of  course  you  require  a  much  smaller 
quantity  of  sauce.  I  have  merely  repeated  it  here  to  show 
that  it  may  be  served  as  an  entree ;  but  great  care  must  be 
taken  in  boiling  the  head,  for  if  not  done  enough  it  is  not 
eatable,  and  if  done  too  much  it  would  be  impossible  to 
dress  them  on  your  dish.  Care  must  also  be  taken  in  dish- 
ing up  to  make  it  look  graceful,  and  it  cannot  be  served 
too  hot. 

No.  661.  Turban  de  Tete  de  Veau  a  la  Maitre  cTHdteL 

Prepare  your  calf's  head  as  in  the  last,  and  dress  the 
pieces  in  crown  upon  mashed  potatoes,  have  ready  the  fol- 
lowing sauce  :  put  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (No.  7)  in  a  stew- 
pan,  with  eight  spoonfuls  of  good  white  stock,  boil  ten  mi- 
nutes, keepiug  it  stirred,  add  two  ounces  of  mcdtre  d'hotel 
butter  (No.  79),  very  highly  seasoned,  let  it  melt,  but  do 
not  let  the  sauce  boil  after  the  butter  is  in,  sauce  over 
and  serve  immediately. 


280  ENTREES. 


No.  662.  liirban  de  Tete  de  Veau  a  la  Hollandaise. 

Prepare  and  dish  the  calf's  head  as  before,  serve  with  a 
sauce  Hollandaise  (No.  66)  over  it. 

No.  663.  Turban  de  Tete  de  Veau  a  la  Poulette. 

Prepare  and  dish  as  before,  have  ready  the  following' 
sauce:  put  half  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (No.  7)  with  a 
pint  of  white  stock,  thirty  small  button-onions,  a  bunch  of 
parsley,  a  sprig  of  thyme,  and  one  bay-leaf,  tied  together, 
into  a  stewpan,  simmer  at  the  comer  of  the  stove  nearly  an 
hour,  skim  and  take  out  the  bunch  of  herbs,  then  with  a 
colander-spoon  take  out  the  onions,  which  put  in  a  clean 
stewpan,  reduce  the  sauce  till  it  adheres  to  the  back  of  the 
spoon,  pass  through  a  tammie  over  the  onions,  add  twelve 
nice  white  blanched  mushrooms,  set  again  on  the  fire,  and 
when  nearly  boiling,  add  a  Uaison  of  one  yolk  of  egg  (mixed 
with  two  tablespoonfals  of  cream),  stir  in  quickly,  place 
over  the  fire  another  minute,  keeping  it  stirred,  but  do  not 
let  it  boil,  add  a  Uttle  lemon-juice  and  chopped  parsley, 
sauce  over  and  serve  immediately. 


No.  664.  Turban  de  Tete  de  Veau  a  VIndienne, 

Prepare  and  dress  the  head  as  usual,  and  serve  with  a 
sauce  a  Tlndienne  (No.  45). 

Great  care  should  be  taken  in  choosing  Indian  pickles, 
no  sort  are  of  any  service  in  cooking  but  the  green  prickly 
sort,  when  good  they  are  milder  eating,  a  good  flavour,  and 
firm  to  the  touch,  but  if  very  hot  and  soft  they  are  fit  for 
nothing  whatever. 

Calf's  head  may  be  served  for  entrees  dressed  as  directed 
with  sauce  currie  (No.  46),  and  rice,  separate,  or  sauce 
poivrade,  piquante,  or  tomates  (Nos.  32,  27  and  37). 


BNT&EBS.  381 

No.  665.   Oreilles  de  Veaufarci, 

It  requires  four  ears  to  make  an  entree,  trim  rather  small 
and  set  them  in  warm  water  to  disgorge  for  several  hours, 
then  prepare  a  white  stock  like  for  calf's  head  (No.  459), 
put  them  in  and  stew  for  an  hour  or  more  till  tender,  leave 
them  to  get  cold  in  their  stock,  then  take  half  a  pound  of 
forcemeat  (No.  120),  to  which  add  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped 
mushrooms ;  mix  altogether  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  take 
out  the  ears,  which  dry  on  a  cloth,  fill  the  inside  with  the 
forcemeat  hut  not  too  full,  have  some  eggs  well  beaten  in  a 
basin,  dip  the  ears  in,  then  throw  them  into  bread-crumbs, 
firy  in  lard  but  not  too  hot  as  the  forcemeat  takes  some  time 
to  cook,  dress  upon  mashed  potatoes  on  your  dish  and  serve 
a  sauce  aux  fitnes  herbes  (No.  26)  under  them. 

No.  666.   Oreilles  de  Veau  en  marinade. 

Cook  the  ears  as  above,  but  do  not  stuff  them,  cut  each 
ear  in  five  or  six  pieces  the  long  way,  and  put  them  in  a 
basin  with  pepper,  salt,  two  onions  in  slices,  a  Uttle  parsley, 
thyme,  and  bay-leaf,  eight  cloves,  three  spoonfuls  of  vinegar, 
and  two  of  oil ;  let  them  remain  six  hours  or  more,  then 
take  out  the  pieces  of  ear,  wipe  each  piece  with  a  cloth, 
have  ready  some  batter  (No.  1285),  dip  the  pieces  in  sepa- 
rately, let  them  be  covered  in  every  part,  and  drop  them  into 
hot  lard,  they  will  take  five  minutes  to  fry,  dress  them  on  a 
dish  with  a  sauce  au  jus  de  tomates  (No.  12)  under  them ; 
garnish  with  fried  parsley  and  serve.  Two  ears  will  be 
sufficient  for  the  above. 

No.  667.  Lanffues  de  Veau  aux  champignons. 

Procure  four  tongues,  which  put  in  warm  water  to  dis- 
gorge, then  put  them  in  a  stewpan,  with  two  onions,  one 
carrot,  one  turnip,  two  bay-leaves,  one  blade  of  mace,  and 


282  ENTR£ES. 

six  cloves ;  cover  with  vsrhite  broth  or  water,  if  water  add  a 
scrag  of  veal,  half  a  pound  of  lean  ham,  and  a  little   salt ; 
place  on  the  fire,  and  when  it  commences  boiling  skim  it 
and  place  it  at  the  comer  of  the  stove  till  the  tongaes  are 
done,  which  you  can  ascertain  by  pricking  them  with  a 
packing-needle ;  if  it  goes  in  easy  they  are  done ;  take  them 
up  and  peel  off  the  skin,  cut  each  tongue  into  three  slices  of 
the  shape  of  cotelettes,  dress  them  in  a  crown  upon  mashed 
potatoes,  glaze  well,  and  serve  with  a  sauce  aux  champig- 
nons (No.  52).     If  the  tongues  are  boiled  the  day  previous, 
warm  them  as  directed  langue  de  boeuf  (No.  644). 

Calves'  tongues  dressed  this  way  may  also  be  served  with 
sauce  a  la  jardiniere  (No.  100),  sauce  piquante,  or  sauce 
poivrade  (Nos.  27  and  82). 

No.  668.  Calves  Brains. 

Procure  two  sets  of  brains,  leave  them  four  hoiurs  in 
water  to  disgorge,  take  off  the  skin  which  covers  them,  and 
put  them  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  pint  of  water,  one  wine- 
glass of  vinegar,  some  salt,  two  onions  sliced,  a  carrot,  a 
few  cloves,  and  a  bunch  of  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay-leaf  ; 
let  boil  gently  fix)m  twenty  minutes  to  half  an  hour,  take 
them  up,  lay  on  a  cloth,  and  cut  each  one  in  halves,  place 
them  in  the  dish  and  serve  with  a  sauce  Hollandaise  (No. 
66),  matelote  (No.  62),  maitre  d'hotel  (No.  43),  or  piquante 
(No.  27),  or  beurre  noir  (No.  306). 

No.  669.  Queries  de  Veau  a  la  Baoigote. 

Four  calves'  tails  are  quite  sufficient  for  an  entree,  pro- 
cure them  as  large  and  as  white  as  possible ;  cut  them  in 
pieces  an  inch  and  a  quarter  in  length,  and  put  them  into  a 
stewpan,  with  a  quart  of  good  white  stock,  two  onions,  half 
a  carrot,  head  of  celery,  three  cloves,  a  bunch  of  parsley, 
thyme,  and  bay-leaf ;  set  on  the  fire  to  boil,  skim,  and  place 


ENTREES.  28S 

it  at  the  comer  to  simmer  for  two  hours,  or  mitil  the  tails 
are  done,  which  you  can  tell  by  pressing  them  with  your 
finger,  dram  them  on  a  cloth,  lay  a  httle  mashed  potatoes 
on  the  bottom  of  your  entree  dish,  stand  the  larger  pieces 
I  perpendicularly  upon  it,  then  again  other  pieces  upon  them, 

I  till  they  form  a  pyramid ;  have  ready  a  good  ravigote  sauce 

(No.  44),  rather  highly  seasoned,  which  pour  over  and  serve ; 

the  sauce  should  be  thick  enough  to  adhere  to  the  pieces. 
I 

No.  670.   Queues  de  Veau  a  la  Potdette. 

Cook  and  dress  the  tails  as  before,  and  sauce  as  directed 
for  turban  de  tete  de  veau  a  la  poulette  (No.  663). 

No.  671.  Of  Sweetbreads. 

The  middle-sized  heart-breads  are  to  be  preferred  to  the 
over  large  or  small,  the  throat-bread  is  rarely  used  to  dress 
and  serve  whole,  but  may  be  served  in  blanquettes,  vol-au- 
vents,  or  ragouts.  Sweetbreads  cannot  be  too  white,  if  red 
when  brought  in  leave  them  four  or  five  hours  in  warm 
water  to  disgorge,  put  them  in  a  stewpan  well  covered  with 
water  to  blanch,  (if  you  put  them  in  cold  water  they  will  be 
blanched  enough.as  soon  as  the  water  begins  to  boil),  throw 
them  a  minute  in  cold  water,  then  lay  them  on  a  dish  face 
downwards,  place  the  bottom  of  another  dish  upon  them, 
on  which  place  a  four  pounds  weight,  they  are  then  ready 
for  use  where  directed ;  three  sweetbreads  are  sufficient  for 
an  entree  if  rather  large,  and  four  if  small. 

No.  672.  Ris  de  Veau  a  la  Santa  Cruz. 

Take  three  good  sweetbreads,  blanch  as  directed,  then 
lard  them  (with  very  thin  strips  of  fat  bacon  an  inch  and  a 
half  in  length)  from  top  to  bottom  an  inch  and  a  half  in 
width,  and  again  from  one  side  to  the  other  to  form  a  cross ; 
have  thirty-six  pieces  of  truffles  cut  in  the  shape  of  cloves, 
but  much  thicker  and  rather  longer,  (twelve  for  each  sweet- 


284  ENTREES. 

bread),  make  a  hole  with  a  larding-needle  in  the  centre  of 
the  cross  in  which  place  a  piece  of  the  truffle,  proceeding  in 
Uke  manner  in  the  centre  of  the  bacon  at  equal  distances 
apart,  cover  the  bottom  of  a  flat  stewpan  with  fat  bacon,  lay 
the  sweetbreads  upon  it,  cover  the  bottom  of  the  stewpan 
about  the  depth  of  two  inches  with  stock,  place  it  over  the 
fire  till  the  stock  boiU,  put  it  in  the  oven  about  half  an 
hour  will  be  sufficient  to  cook  them,  (but  that  depends 
upon  their  size  and  the  heat  of  the  oven,)  try  them  with  a 
larding-needle,  if  quite  tender  through  they  are  done ;  but 
if  soft  in  the  middle  and  touglnsh  leave  them  a  Uttle  longer, 
glaze  them  lightly  and  salamander  a  nice  gold  colour,  drain 
them  on  a  cloth  and  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  blanch 
one  ounce  of  riband  macaroni  in  water  till  tender,  dry,  and 
put  it  in  a  stewpan,  with  ten  spoonfuls  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1), 
and  two  of  tomata  sauce  (No.  37),  with  a  piece  of  glaze, 
reduce  till  rather  thick,  then  add  twenty  heads  of  mushrooms 
and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese ;  season 
with  a  httle  sugar  and  cayenne,  pour  the  sauce  in  your 
dish,  dress  the  sweetbreads  over  and  serve  very  hot. 

No.  673.  Bis  de  Veau  pique  a  la  Turque, 

Blanch  four  small  heart-sweetbreads  as  directed,  and  lard 
them  nicely  from  end  to  end  lengthwise,  with  fat  bacon  an 
inch  and  a  half  in  length,  and  breadth  in  proportion,  braise 
as  directed  in  the  last ;  have  ready  a  ring  of  forcemeat 
(No.  120)  made  in  around  plain  mould*  well  buttered,  with 
a  round  piece  of  bread  in  the  centre ;  lay  the  forcemeat 
round  the  bread  an  inch  and  a  half  in  thickness,  place  the 
mould  in  a  stewpan  of  boiling  water,  (but  do  not  let  the 

*  It  would  be  advisable  to  have  a  mould  purposely  for  borders  of  this  descrip- 
tion two  inches  in  height,  half  an  inch  in  depth,  and  eight  inches  in  diameter, 
with  a  cylinder  five  inches  in  diameter;  these  borders  are  by  some  always  used 
instead  of  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes,  but  I  prefer  the  last-mentioned,  being 
quicker  made,  the  entries  resting  more  steadily  upon  it,  and,  being  laid  thinly 
ujwn  the  dishes,  never  interfering  with  any  description  of  sauces. 


ENTREES.  285 

water  get  into  the  mould),  place  the  stewpan  over  the  fire 
till  the  forcemeat  is  set,  then  take  it  out,  detach  the  bread 
from  the  centre  and  turn  out  the  forcemeat,  which  will  be 
a  complete  ring»  place  it  on  the  dish,  cut  each  of  the  sweet- 
breads in  halves  and  dress  them  upon  it,  the  cut  part  to- 
wards the  middle ;  then  have  ready  blanched  half  a  pound 
of  good  rice  as  directed  (No.  129),  put  it  in  a  stewpan,  with 
six  pats  of  butter,  two  spoonfuls  of  cream,  a  Uttle  safifron 
powder,  pepper,  salt,  and  sugar ;  mix  all  together  and  dress 
in  pyramid  in  the  centre,  place  a  fine  (dressed)  cockscomb 
between  each  half  sweetbread,  sauce  over  the  rice  with 
sauce  au  supreme  (No.  57),  glaze  the  sweetbreads  and  serve. 

No.  674.  Bis  de  Veau  pique  a  la  Financiere. 

Blanch,  lard,  and  braise  three  sweetbreads  as  before; 
have  ready  a  ragout  a  la  financiere  (No.  50),  which  pour  in 
the  dish,  dress  your  sweetbreads  over,  glaze  lightly  and  serve. 

No.  675.  Bis  de  Veau  pique  a  la  puree  ^a»perge%. 

Slanch,  lard,  and  braise  three  sweetbreads  as  before,  but 
keep  them  a  more  delicate  colour  and  drain  them  weU  upon 
a  cloth ;  when  you  take  them  from  the  stewpan  have  ready 
a  puree  of  asparagus  (No.  102),  which  pour  into  the  dish, 
dress  the  sweetbreads  over  and  serve. 

Larded  sweetbreads  may  be  also  served  with  a  truffle  sauce 
(No.  51),  Palestine,  jardiniere,  aux  concombres,  dressed 
spinach,  or  endive  (see  Nos.  87,  100,  103,  106,  and  119.) 

No.  676.  Bia  de  Veau  rdti. 

Heart-sweetbreads  are  also  preferable  for  roasting,  al- 
though the  throat-breads  may  be  used ;  blanch  as  before 
and  let  them  cool,  place  them  in  a  stewpan,  with  two 
onions,  two  cloves,  a  blade  of  mace,  a  carrot,  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  lean  ham,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay-leaf^ 


286  BNTREBS. 

just  cover  with  a  good  stock,  and  place  them  on  the  fire  to 
boil  twenty  minutes,  take  them  out,  dry  on  a  cloth,  egg 
and  bread-crumb  them  twice  over,  then  run  a  long  flat 
skewer  through  them  lengthwise,  which  tie  up  on  a  spit, 
roast  before  a  fierce  fire  till  they  become  a  nice  Ught  brown, 
keeping  them  basted  with  butter ;  pass  the  stock  they  were 
boiled  in  through  a  sieve  into  another  stewpan,  boil  and 
skim  well,  place  the  sweetbreads  in  a  dish,  pour  some  of  the 
stock  round  and  serve ;  it  may  also  be  served  with  sauce 
piquante,  poivrade,  or  tomata  (Nos.  27,  32,  37). 

No.  677.  Caiaae  de  ria  de  Veau  a  la  Nirum  de  VEndoa. 

Roast  four  sweetbreads  as  directed  in  the  last,  and  let 
them  remain  till  cold,  then  open  and  empty  them,  thus 
making  a  case,  leaving  it  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness ; 
cut  up  what  you  have  taken  fi*om  them  in  sUces,  have  also 
twenty  small  pieces  of  cucumber,  prepared  as  directed  for 
sauce  (No.  103),  put  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  eschalots  in 
a  stewpan,  with  a  very  small  piece  of  butter,  pass  over  the 
fire  a  few  minutes,  but  keep  them  quite  white,  then  add 
three  parts  of  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (No.  7)  and  a  little 
milk,  reduce  till  thickish,  keeping  it  stirred,  add  the  sweet- 
bread and  cucumber,  season  with  a  little  sugar  and  salt,  and 
when  it  boijs  add  a  liaison  of  one  yolk  of  egg  mixed  with 
half  a  giU  of  cream ;  do  not  let  it  boil  afterwards,  fill  the 
cases  and  cover  the  opening  with  a  Uttle  very  thick  Mtter 
butter  (No.  1285),  place  them  in  a  sharp  oven,  and  as  soon 
as  the  batter  is  baked  sufficient,  dress  them  on  your  dish, 
three  at  the  bottom  and  one  on  the  top ;  serve  with  a  thin 
bechamel  sauce  (No.  7)  under. 

No.  678.  Escalopes  de  Bis  de  Veau  an  supreme. 

Blanch  three  sweetbreads  twenty  minutes,  and  when 
cold  cut  each  bread  into  four  slices  lengthwise,  and  trim  in 


ENTEEES.  287 

the  shape  of  fillets  of  tbivl,  well  batter  the  bottom  of  a 
saute-pan,  lay  in  the  escalopes,  keeping  them  in  their  shapes, 
season  over  with  a  little  white  pepper,  salt,  and  the  juice  of 
half  a  lemon,  place  over  a  slow  fire,  ten  minutes  will  be 
sufficient  to  cook  them ;  when  done  on  one  side  turn,  keep 
them  quite  white,  lay  them  on  a  cloth  to  dram,  and  dress 
in  crown  on  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes ;  serve  with  a 
sauce  au  supreme  (No.  57)  poured  over. 

No.  679«  Escalopes  de  Bis  de  Veau  aux pointes  d^asperges. 

Dress  three  sweetbreads  as  in  the  last,  and  serve  a  sauce 
aux  pointes  d'asperges  (No.  101)  in  the  centre. 

No.  680.  Escalopes  de  Bis  de  Veau  a  VIndienne. 

Dress  three  sweetbreads  as  in  the  two  last,  but  keep 
them  rather  underdone ;  when  cold  egg  and  bread-crumb 
them  twice  over,  put  six  spoonfuls  of  oil  in  a  saute-pan, 
place  it  over  the  fire,  and  when  hot  lay  in  the  escalopes, 
which  iry  a  nice  light  brown  colour,  dress  in  a  crown  on  a 
border  of  mashed  potatoes,  and  serve  with  a  nice  white 
Indian  sauce  (No.  45)  in  the  centre,  previously  glazing  the 
escalopes  lightly. 

No.  681,  Escalopes  de  Bis  de  Veau  en  caisses. 

Blanch  four  throat-sweetbreads,  and  cut  them  in  sUces 
one  size  larger  and  three  times  the  thickness  of  a  shilling, 
butter  the  bottom  of  a  saute-pan  and  put  in  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  chopped  eschalots,  lay  the  pieces  of  sweetbread 
over,  season  with  a  httle  salt  and  pepper,  and  place  them 
over  a  slow  fire ;  when  done  add  a  spoonful  of  chopped 
mushrooms,  one  of  chopped  parsley,  half  a  pint  of  brown 
sauce  (No.  1),  a  little  glaze,  half  a  pint  of  broth,  a  little 
powdered  sugar  and  grated  nutmeg ;  let  simmer  altogether 
ten  minutes,  moving  them  round  by  shaking  the  saute-pan. 


288  ENTREES. 

have  six  or  eight  small  paper  boxes^  or  cases,  fill  each  of 
them  three  parts  full  with  the  above,  egg  the  top  with  a 
paste-brush,  sprinkle  bread-crumbs  over  and  place  them  in 
a  warm  oven  twenty  minutes,  pass  the  salamander  over, 
dress  them  in  pyramid  on  your  dish,  and  serve  with  plenly 
of  fried  parsley. 

No.  682.  Jtelettea  de  Bis  de  Veau. 

Prepare  the  sweetbreads  precisely  as  in  the  last,  but  add 
a  liaison  of  two  yolks  of  eggs  mixed  with  four  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  cream,  and  leave  them  to  get  cold  in  the  sauce,  have 
six  silver  skewers  (atelettes),  and  run  six  or  eight  pieces  of 
sweetbread  upon  each,  with  as  much  sauce  as  possible 
adhering  to  them,  smooth  round  with  a  knife,  dip  them  in 
eggs  well  beaten  in  a  basin,  then  into  bread-crumbs,  beat 
lightly  with  a  knife,  dip  them  again  into  the  bread-crumbs^ 
fry  in  hot  lard,  dress  them  as  described  for  atelettes  de 
palates  de  boeuf  (No.  655),  and  serve  a  sauce  Italienne 
(No.  30)  under. 

No.  683.  Blanqnette  de  Bis  de  Veau  aux  tnrffes. 

Blanch  three  throat-sweetbreads  twenty  minutes,  cut 
them  in  slices  the  size  and  double  the  thickness  of  half- 
crown-pieces,  cut  also  into  thin  slices  six  good-sized  truffles, 
then  put  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  eschalots  in  a  conve- 
nient-sized stewpan,  with  a  small  piece  of  butter,  pass  them 
a  few  minutes  over  a  sharp  fire,  keeping  them  quite  white, 
add  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  reduce  three  minutes, 
then  add  the  sweetbread  and  truffles,  season  with  a  little 
salt  and  sugar,  simmer  gently  five  minutes,  finish  with  a 
liaison  of  one  yolk  of  egg  mixed  with  half  a  gill  of  cream, 
pour  it  out  in  your  dish  and  garnish  with  eight  large  tri- 
angular croutons  of  bread  (in  the  form  of  a  star)  fried  in 
butter,  which  glaze  and  serve. 


ENTREES.  289 

No.  684.  Vot'OU'Vent  de  Bis  de  Veau. 

Make  a  vol-au-vent  as  directed  (No.  1140),  cook  two 
sweetbreads  with  truffles  as  in  the  last,  and  when  ready  to 
serve  fill  your  vol-au-vent,  which  glaze  lightly  and  serve 
very  hot. 

Sweetbreads  may  also  be  served  either  in  blanquettes  or 
vol-au-vents,  with  cucumbers,  stewed  mushrooms,  slices  of 
tongue  or  ham,  instead  of  truffles. 

No.  685.   OfTendronsde  Veau. 

For  one!  entree  you  will  require  the  tendrons  from  two 
breasts  of  veal,  which  are  cut  out  without  injuring  the 
breasts,  and  afterwards  stewed  (see  breast  of  veal  in  the 
Removes) ;  tie  the  two  tendrons  together  and  put  them  in  a 
deep  stewpan,  with  two  carrots,  four  onions,  six  cloves,  a 
good  bunch  of  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay-leaf;  cover  vdth  a 
second  stock,  place  them  on  the  fire,  and  when  boiling 
draw  it  on  the  comer,  skim,  and  let  stew  gently  for  six  or 
seven  hours ;  when  done  (which  you  may  ascertain  by  run- 
ning the  point  of  your  knife  through  them,  if  tender  they 
are  done,  if  not  stew  them  till  th^  are,)  lay  them  on  a  dish, 
take  away  the  string,  pull  out  the  small  bones  which  may 
remain,  and  place  another  dish  of  the  same  size  upon  them, 
on  which  place  a  seven  pounds  weight;  when  quite  cold 
and  set,  cut  twelve  pieces  out  of  tl)^m  either  of  an  oval  or 
diamond  shape,  but  not  too  large,  egg  and  bread-crumb  the 
sides  but  not  the  edges  twice  over,  and  fry  them  gently  of 
a  light-brown  colour  in  a  saute-pan.  Serve  with  any  of  the 
sauces  directed  for  the  sweetbreads. 

No.  686.  Tendrons  de  Veau  a  la  Noble  Dame. 

Prepare  two  tendrons  as  before,  and  when  quite  cold  cut 
out  twelve  pieces  of  any  shape  you  please,  but  one  third 

19 


290  ENTREES. 

less  than  in  the  previous  article,  put  a  quart  of  white  sauce 
(No.  7)  in  a  stewpan,  with  six  spoonfuls  of  white  stock  and 
iwo  of  chopped  mushrooms;  reduce  till  thick  enough  to 
cover  the  back  of  the  spoon,  take  it  off  the  fire  and  stir  in 
the  yolks  of  two  eggs  veiy  quickly,  take  your  pieces  of 
tendrons  one  at  a  time  with  a  fork,  dip  them  in  the  sauce 
'  so  that  they  are  covered  on  every  part,  and  lay  them  on  a 
'  dish  to  get  cold ;  have  ready  some  fritter  batter  (No.  1285), 
dip  each  piece  of  tendron  with  as  much  sauce  as  adheres  to 
it,  and  fry  in  very  hot  lard,  dress  them  in  crown  on  a  bor- 
der of  mashed  potatoes,  fill  the  centre  with  fried  watercresses, 
for  sauce  put  a  gill  of  cream  in  a  stewpan,  and  when  boil- 
mg  add  two  pats  of  butter  and  a  little  salt ;  when  the  butter 
is  quite  melted  sauce  round  and  serve. 

No.  687.  Tendrons  de  Veau  a  la  Dauphine, 

Proceed  precisely  as  in  the  last,  but  instead  of  dipping 
them  in  the  batter,  egg  and  bread-crumb  twice  over  and  fry 
in  very  hot  lard  of  a  fine  yellow  colour ;  serve  with  a  sauce 
tomate  (No.  87)  poured  round. 

No.  688.   Cotelettes  de  Veau  pique  aux  petita  pois. 

Veal  cotelettes  require  to  be  cut  from  the  neck  in  the 
same  shape  as  mutton  cutlets,  four  are  sufficient  for  an  entree, 
they  must  be  very  nicely  larded  on  one  side,  like  a  sweet- 
bread, braise  in  the  sani^  kind  of  manner  until  very  tender, 
glaze  lightly,  and  salamander  of  a  light-brown  colour; 
have  ready  boiled  a  pint  of  young  peas,  which  put  in  a  stew- 
pan, with  two  pats  of  butter,  a  little  salt,  and  a  teaspoonful 
of  powdered  sugar ;  when  boiling  finish  with  a  liaison  of 
one  yolk  of  egg  mixed  with  a  tablespoonful  of  cream,  pour 
int/O  the  dish  and  dress  the  cotelettes  over  in  a  square,  glaze 
lightly  and  serve;  dressed  in  the  above  mlanner  they  may  also 
be  served  with  sauce  a  la  jardiniere,  aux  navets  au  bran. 


ENTREES.  201 

anx  pointes  d^asperges,  aux  conoombres,  sauce  poivrade,  or 
8auce  tomate. 

No.  689.   Cotdettes  de  Veau  enpapillote. 

Gut  six  small  veal  cotelettes,  do  not  lard  them,  put  six 
tablespoonfuls  of  oil  in  a  saute-pan,  in  which  fry  the  cote- 
lettes ;  when  done  pour  off  a  Uttle  of  the  oil,  put  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  chopped  onions,  one  of  chopped  parsley,  one  of 
chopped  mushrooms,  and  twenty  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1) 
seasoned  rather  high,  moisten  with  a  little  stock  and  sinuner 
altogether  twenty  minutes,  place  the  cotelettes  on  a  dish  in 
the  sauce  to  get  cold,  cut  six  pieces  of  paper  in  the  shape  of 
hearts,  oil  them,  and  put  a  cotelette  in  each  with  as  much 
of  the  sauce  as  possible  around,  fold  each  one  up,  plaiting 
it  at  the  edges,  broil  them  twenty  minutes  over  a  slow  fire, 
and  dress  them  in  a  circle  on  your  dish  without  removing 
the  papers. 

No.  690.  Cotelettes  de  Veau  a  la  Sans  Fago/i, 

Cut  four  large  cotelettes,  which  season  well,  dip  them  in 
a  basin  containing  two  eggs  well  beaten,  then  throw  them 
into  a  dish  of  bread-crumbs,  in  which  you  have  mixed  some 
finely  chopped  eschalots  and  parsley,  beat  them  with  your 
knife,  dip  them  into  warm  clarified  butter,  and  again  into 
the  bread-crumbs,  beat  again  with  your  knife,  and  broil 
them  nicely  over  a  sharp  fire ;  have  in  a  stevrpan  six  or 
eight  well  boiled  mealy  potatoes,  add  four  pats  of  butter 
and  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  mash  them  well  with  a  fork, 
adding  a  gffl  of  cream  by  degrees,  nimng  quickly  they  wfll 
be  very  light,  dress  them  in  a  pyramid  on  your  dish,  glaze 
the  cotelettes,  which  stand  upright  against  the  potatoes,  and 
serve ;  this  is  an  excellent  dish  for  luncheon. 


292  ENTREES. 

No.  691 .  Noix  de  Veaufor  Entrees. 

Are  prepared  exactly  in  the  same  manner  as  described 
for  the  flancs  (No.  565),  only  they  are  not  required  so  large, 
half  the  noix  being  quite  sufficient,  that  is,  cut  into  two 
sUces,  trim  it  of  a  nice  shape,  lard,  dress,  and  serve,  with 
the  sauces  as  described  for  the  flancs. 

No.  692.  Grenadins  de  Veau pique  aux  racinea  nouoeRes. 

Cut  twelve  fillets  from  a  noix  de  veau  the  size  and  shape 
of  fillets  of  fowl,  lard  them  nicely  with  very  finely  cut 
bacon,  cover  the  bottom  of  a  convenient-sized  saute-pan 
with  thin  shoes  of  fat  bacon,  upon  which  lay  the  grenadins, 
add  a  little  veal  stock  but  not  enough  to  cover  them,  place 
a  sheet  of  buttered  paper  over  and  stand  them  in  a  mode- 
rate oven  for  an  hour  or  till  tender,  moistening  occasionally 
with  a  little  of  the  stock ;  when  done  glaze  them  Ughtly  and 
salamander  of  a  Ught  colour,  then  have  prepared  twenty 
young  carrots  and  twenty  young  turnips,  which  cook  as 
direct^  (No.  109),  dish  the  grenadins  in  crown  upon  a 
border  of  mashed  potatoes,  place  a  pyramid  of  the  potatoes 
in  the  centre  of  the  dish,  upon  which  dress  the  carrots  and 
turnips  in  rotation ;  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  put 
the  glaze  from  your  vegetables  in  a  stewpan,  with  half  a 
pint  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1),  and  a  Uttle  good  stock,  place 
it  on  the  fire,  skim,  and  reduce  until  rather  thick ;  sauce 
over  your  vegetables  and  serve. 

Grenadins  may  be  served  with  any  of  the  sauces  as  de- 
scribed for  noix  de  veau  or  sweetbreads. 

No.  693.   Of  Feed  Kidneys. 

The  kidney  being  part  of  the  loin  is  usually  served  with 
it,  and  a  loin  of  veal  roasted  without  it  would  be  considered 
worthless,  but  still  the  loins  may  be  dressed,  as  directed  in 


ENTREES.  298 

the  Kemoves,  without  the  kidneys ;  to  stew  them  proceed  as 
follows :  cut  three  kidneys  into  thin  shces,  put  an  ounce  of 
butter  into  a  convenient-sized  stewpan,  place  oyer  the  fire, 
and  just  as  it  begins  to  get  brown  throw  in  the  kidneys, 
stir  them  over  the  fire  with  a  wooden  spoon,  and  when  they 
become  firm  add  half  a  tablespoonfiil  of  flour,  stir  it  in,  then 
add  a  glass  of  sherry,  eight  spoonfuls  of  broth,  and  twenty 
mushrooms,  let  all  boil  together  five  minutes,  season  with  a 
little  pepper,  salt,  nutmeg,  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon, 
if  too  thick  add  more  broth,  pour  them  on  a  dish  and  serve, 
or  they  would  look  better  served  in  a  croustade  of  bread 
(No.  416)  fried  a  nice  yellow  colour. 

No.  694.   Veal  Kidneys  en  Causes, 

Proceed  exactly  as  described  for  ris  de  veau  en  caisses 
CNo.  681). 

No.  695.  .Boudin  de  Veau  a  la  Legumiefe. 

Make  two  pounds  of  veal  forcemeat  as  directed  (No.  120), 
cover  the  sides  of  a  plain  round  mould  with  vegetables,  pre- 
cisely as  directed  for  a  Chartreuse  (No.  604),  then  cut  a 
piece  of  bread  quite  round,  the  depth  of  the  mould,  cover 
tbe  bread  with  white  buttered  paper,  and  stand  it  in  the 
centre  of  the  mould,*  leaving  the  space  of  an  inch  and  a  half 
all  round,  which  fiU  up  with  the  forcemeat,  being  careful  not 
to  disarrange  the  vegetables  \  when  well  filled,  put  the  mould 
in  a  stewpan,  cover  with  a  piece  of  stiff  paper,  put  water 
enough  in  the  stewpan  to  come  three  parts  of  the  way  up 
the  mould,  place  the  stewpan  over  the  fire  and  let  it  sim- 
mer gently  (keeping  it  covered)  nearly  an  hour,  turn  it  out 
on  your  dish,  take  the  bread  and  paper  from  the  centre, 
sauce  over  with  a  good  demi-glace  (No.  9),  and  serve. 

*  A  cylinder  copper  mould  is  preferable  to  a  plain  one,  but  as  almost  eyery 
kitchen  has  plain  moulds,  I  describe  this  in  preference. 


294  ENTREES. 


No.  696.  Boudin  de  Veau  a  la  Richelieu. 

Butter  a  plain  romid  mould  ratW  thickly,  have  five  or 
six  good-sized  truffles  chopped  very  fine,  throw  them  in  the 
mould,  which  roll  round  until  the  sides  are  quite  covered 
with  them ;  then  prepare  a  piece  of  bread  as  in  the  last,  fill 
the  space  up  with  the  same  forcemeat,  blanch  it  in  a  stew- 
pan  as  before,  turn  out  on  your  dish,  take  away  the  bread, 
and  serve  with  a  sauce  Perigueux  (No.  55)  over  it. 

No.  697.   Of  Mutton  for  Entrees, 

For  entrees  the  small  South  Down  mutton  is  much  to  be 
preferred,  the  principal  entrees  made  firom  mutton  are  cote- 
lettes,  which  never  will  be  out  of  vogue ;  I  shall  therefore 
give  a  numerous  list  of  receipts  for  the  dressing  of  them, 
but  the  manner  of  cutting  them  requires  particular  atten- 
tion ;  the  most  simple  method  is  to  take  the  chine-bone 
oif  from  the  neck  neatly  with  a  saw,  but  not  quite  detach}ng 
all  the  meat  firom  the  bone,  then  cut  it  into  chops,  leaving  a 
bone  to  each ;  with  a  knife  cut  off  the  skinny  part  from 
each  side  of  the  bone  and  a  piece  of  the  meat  at  the  end  of 
the  bone,  so  as  to  leave  a  piece  of  bone  about  half  an  inch 
in  length,  then  with  a  cotelette-bat  beat  them  nearly  to  the 
same  thickness  as  the  bone,  take  the  rough  parts  of  the 
bone  off  with  your  chopper,  and  trim  the  cotelettes  of  a 
good  shape,  taking  off  a  greater  part  of  the  fat  and  rounding 
the  lean  part  nicely ;  but  in  cutting  cotelettes  to  look  well, 
much  depends  upon  the  taste  of  the  person,  they  require  to 
be  cut  some  time  previous  to  cooking,  or  they  would  shrink 
and  loose  their  shape. 

No.  698.  Cotelettes  de  Mouton  a  la  Beform. 
Chop  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lean  cooked  ham  very  fine. 


Mutton  CuUat 


BNTREES.  295 

and  mix  it  with  the  same  quantity  of  bread-crumbs,  then 
have  ten  very  nice  cotelettes,  lay  them  flat  on  your  table^ 
season  hghtly  with  pepper  and  salt,  egg  over  with  a  paste- 
brush,  and  throw  them  into  the  ham  and  bread-crumbs, 
then  beat  them  hghtly  with  a  knife,  put  ten  spoonfuls  of 
oil  in  a  saute-pan,  place  it  over  the  fire,  and  when  quite  hot 
lay  in  the  cotelettes,  fiy  nearly  ten  minutes  (over  a  moderate 
fire)  of  a  light  brown  cobur ;  to  ascertain  when  done,  press 
your  knife  upon  the  thick  part,  if  quite  done  it  will  feel 
rather  firm ;  possibly  they  may  not  all  be  done  at  one  time, 
so  take  out  those  that  are  ready  first  and  lay  them  on  a 
doth  till  the  others  are  done  ;  as  they  require  to  be  cooked 
with  the  gravy  in  them,  dress  upon  a  thin  border  of  mashed 
potatoes  in  a  crown,  with  the  bones  pointing  outwards,  sauce 
over  with  a  pint  of  the  sauce  reform  (No.  86),  and  serve.  K 
for  a  large  dinner  you  may  possibly  be  obliged  to  cook  the 
cotelettes  half  an  hour  before,  in  which  case  they  must  be 
very  underdone,  and  laid  in  a  clean  saute-pan,  with  two  or 
three  spoonfuls  of  thin  glaze ;  keep  them  in  the  hot  closet, 
moistening  them  occasionally  with  the  glaze  (with  a  paste- 
brush)  until  ready  to  serve ;  the  same  remark  apphes  to 
every  description  of  cotelettes. 

No.  699.   Cotelettes  de  Mouton  a  la  Vicomtesse. 

Cut,  bread-crumb,  and  fry  ten  mutton  cotelettes  as  in  the 
last,  but  let  them  be  rather  underdone,  then  have  ready  six 
large  quenelles  of  veal  (No.  120)  quite  cold,  mash  them  in 
a  basin  with  a  wooden  spoon,  then  add  a  teaspoonful  of 
very  finely  chopped  eschalots,  two  of  chopped  parsley,  and 
a  Uttle  grated  nutmeg,  with  a  tablespoonful  of  cold  white 
sauce  (No.  7)  and  the  yolk  of  an  egg ;  mix  all  well  together, 
and  put  a  piece  of  the  size  of  a  walnut  upon  each  cotelette, 
spread  it  even,  then  have  ten  thin  small  shces  of  cooked  ham, 
place  a  shce  upon  each  cotelette,  which  again  cover  vnth 


I 

y 
t 


ENTREES.  295 

and  mix  it  with  the  same  quantity  of  bread-crumbs,  then 
have  ten  very  nice  ootelettes,  lay  them  flat  on  your  table> 
season  lightly  with  pepper  and  salt,  egg  over  with  a  paste- 
brush,  and  throw  them  into  the  ham  and  bread-crumbs, 
then  beat  them  lightly  with  a  knife,  put  ten  spoonfuls  of 
oil  in  a  saute-pan,  plaoe  it  over  the  fire,  and  when  quite  hot 
lay  in  the  ootdettes,  fiy  nearly  ten  minutes  (over  a  moderate 
fire)  of  a  light  brown  coloiir ;  to  ascertain  when  done,  press 
your  knife  upon  the  thick  part,  if  quite  done  it  will  feel 
rather  firm ;  possibly  they  may  not  all  be  done  at  one  time, 
so  take  out  those  that  are  ready  first  and  lay  them  on  a 
doth  till  the  others  are  done ;  as  they  require  to  be  cooked 
with  the  gravy  in  them,  dress  upon  a  thm  border  of  mashed 
potatoes  in  a  crown,  with  the  bones  pointing  outwards,  sauce 
over  with  a  pint  of  the  sauce  reform  (No.  86),  and  serve.  If 
for  a  large  dinner  you  may  possibly  be  obliged  to  cook  the 
cotelettes  half  an  hour  before,  in  which  ease  they  must  be 
very  underdone,  and  laid  in  a  clean  saute-pan,  with  two  or 
three  spoonfuls  of  thin  glaze ;  keep  them  in  the  hot  closet, 
moistening  them  occasionally  with  the  glaze  (with  a  paste- 
brush)  until  ready  to  serve ;  the  same  remark  appUes  to 
every  description  of  cotelettes. 

No.  699.  Cotelettes  de  Mouton  a  la  Vicomtesae, 

Cut,  bread-crumb,  and  fry  ten  mutton  cotelettes  as  in  the 
last,  but  let  them  be  rather  underdone,  then  have  ready  six 
large  quenelles  of  veal  (No.  120)  quite  cold,  mash  them  in 
a  basin  with  a  wooden  spoon,  then  add  a  teaspoonful  of 
very  finely  chopped  eschalots,  two  of  chopped  parsley,  and 
a  little  grated  nutmeg,  with  a  tablespoonful  of  cold  white 
sauce  (No.  7)  and  the  yolk  of  an  egg ;  mix  all  well  together, 
and  put  a  piece  of  the  size  of  a  walnut  upon  each  cotelette, 
spread  it  even,  then  have  ten  thin  small  shces  of  cooked  ham, 
place  a  shoe  upon  each  cotelette,  which  again  cover  with 


296  ENTKEE8. 

the  forcemeat,  forming  a  flattish  dome,  but  not  too  thick ; 
egg  over  with  a  paste-brush,  sprinkle  with  bread-crumbs, 
put  again  into  the  saute-pan,  and  place  them  in  a  moderate 
oven  ten  minutes,  salamander  a  light  colour,  dress  in  crown 
on  a  thin  border  of  mashed  potatoes,  and  have  ready  the 
following  sauce :  put  two  yolks  of  eggs  in  a  stewpan  with 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  a  Uttle  pepper  and  salt, 
a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar  from  India  pickles,  and  a 
little  lemon-juice,  stir  it  quickly  over  the  fire  with  a 
wooden  spoon  until  beginning  to  thicken,  then  add  ten 
tablespoonfcds  of  bechamel  sauce  (No.  7)  with  four  of 
jsnUk,  stir  over  the  fire,  but  do  not  let  it  boil,  then  pass  it 
through  a  tammie  into  a  clean  stewpan,  stir  it  another  mi- 
nute over  the  fire,  sauce  over,  have  two  firm  green  India 
pickles  and  half  an  ounce  of  lean  cooked  ham  chopped  very 
fine,  which  sprinkle  over  and  serve  very  hot. 

No.  700.  Cotelettes  de  Mouton  a  la  IFestpAalienne. 

Prepare  ten  cotelettes  as  in  the  last,  mixing  chopped 
Westphalia  ham  with  the  bread-crumbs  instead  of  the  com- 
mon ham,  likewise  sprinkling  ham  over  the  forcemeat  in- 
itead  of  bread-crumbs,  place  them  in  the  oven  as  before, 
xad  salamander  a  nice  colour,  dress  in  crown  as  in  the  last, 
and  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  pound  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  lean  Westphalia  cooked  ham  very  fine,  add  two 
ounces  of  butter,  and  pass  it  through  a  hair  sieve  with  a 
wooden  spoon,  then  put  a  pint  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1)  in  a 
stewpan  with  six  spoonfuls  of  consomme  (No.  134)  and  a 
piece  of  glaze  the  size  of  a  walnut ;  reduce  and  skim  till 
becoming  a  good  demi-glace,  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
tomata  sauce,  a  Uttle  sugar,  and  the  butter  with  the  ham, 
stir  over  the  fire  until  the  butter  is  melted,  sauce  over  and 
serve. 


SNTREE8.  297 

No.  701.  Cotelettes  de  Mouton  a  la  Provengale. 

Have  ready  ten  cotelettes,  season  with  a  little  pepper  and 
salt,  egg  with  a  paste-brush,  and  dip  them  into  bread- 
crumbs, beat  lightly  with  a  knife  and  fry  in  oil,  but  very 
much  underdone,  lay  them  on  a  cloth,  and  have  ready  the 
following :  chop  six  middling-sized  onions  very  fine  and  put 
them  in  a  stewpan  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  oil,  pass  them 
over  a  moderate  fire  ten  minutes,  keeping  stirred  with  a 
wooden  spoon,  then  add  half  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  (mix 
well),  half  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  and  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  good  stock,  boil  altogether  a  quarter  of  an  hour 
or  till  the  onions  are  quite  tender,  season  with  a  Uttle 
pepper,  salt,  and  nearly  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  sugar, 
draw  the  stewpan  off  the  fire  and  stir  in  the  yolks  of  two 
eggs,  place  over  the  fire  another  minute,  pour  it  out  on  a  dish 
to  get  cold,  place  a  piece  the  size  of  a  large  wahiut  upon 
each  cotelette,  spread  it  over  with  a  knife,  leaving  it  thickest 
in  the  middle ;  egg  them  with  a  paste-brush,  sprinkle  bread- 
crumbs over,  drop  a  Uttle  oil  on  each,  put  them  in  the 
same  saute-pan,  place  in  the  oven  ten  minutes,  salamander 
a  light  brown,  and  dress  them  on  your  dish  as  before ;  have 
ready  the  following  sauce :  put  nearly  a  pint  of  brown  sauce 
(No.  1)  iQ  a  stewpan  with  a  piece  of  glaze  the  size  of  a 
walnut,  and  eight  spoonfuls  of  consomme  (No.  134) ;  re- 
duce and  skim  well  till  it  adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon, 
add  a  little  scraped  garlic  the  size  of  a  couple  of  p6as,  sauce 
over  and  serve ;  more  garlic  may  be  added  if  approved  of 

No.  702.  Cotelettes  de  Mouton  a  la  BoAemienne. 

Have  twelve  good  cotelettes  well-trimmed,  lay  them  in  a 
basin  and  pour  a  quart  of  good  marinade  hot  over  them 
(see  filet  de  boeuf  a  la  Bohemienne,  No.  426),  let  th^n  re- 
main four  or  five  days,  turning  them  occasionally;  when 


298  £NTR££S. 

wanted  take  them  out,  dry  on  a  cloth,  dip  in  flour  a^d  broil 
them  quickly  over  a  sharp  fire,  dress  in  crown  hke  the  cote- 
lettes  reform,  and  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  a  gill  of 
the  marinade  in  a  stewpan,  with  two  spoonfuls  oi  tomata 
sauce  (No.  37),  six  of  brown  sauce,  and  a  piece  of  glaze  the 
size  of  a  wahiut,  reduce  till  it  becomes  half  glaze  again, 
then  add  a  spoonful  of  red-cuirant  jelly,  three  anchovies 
well  washed,  and  cut  into  small  diamond-shaped  pieces, 
also  twenty  pieces  of  gherkins  cut  in  the  same  shape,  let 
warm  in  the  sauce,  which  pour  over  and  serve.  The  cote- 
lettes  may  be  bread-crumbed  if  required. 

No.  703.  Cotelettes  de  Mouton  a  la  Soudise, 

Prepare  twelve  cotelettes,  season  with  a  httle  pepper  and 
salt,  egg  over  with  a  paste-brush,  and  throw  them  into 
bread-crumbs^  beat  tightly  with  a  knife,  and  &y  them  in 
clarified  butter  in  a  saute-pan,  dress  on  your  dish  as  before, 
and  serve  with  a  sauce  Soubise  (No.  47)  under,  glaze  lightly 
when  dressing  them  on  your  dish. 

No.  704.   Cotelettes  de  Mouton  a  la  DurceUe. 

Egg,  bread-crumb,  and  fiy  twelve  cotelettes  in  oil,  when 
done  take  out  and  lay  them  on  a  cloth,  put  a  teaspoonful  of 
chopped  eschalots  and  two  of  chopped  onions  in  the  saute- 
pan,  &y  them  a  light  brown  colour,  pour  off  as  much  oil  as 
possible,  add  half  a  pint  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1)  and  a  tittle 
consomme,  let  boil  quickly  ten  minutes,  then  add  a  tittle 
sugar,  cayenne  pepper,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  mush- 
rooms, the  same  of  chopped  parsley,  and  one  teaspoonM  of 
Harvey  sauce,  put  the  cotelettes  into  the  sauce  to  get  hot, 
have  ready  four  paper  cases  six  inches  long,  lay  three 
cotelettes  in  each,  pour  the  sauce  over,  place  them  in  a 
moderate  oven  ten  minutes,  dress  on  your  dish  in  the  cases 
and  serve  immediately. 


XNTBSSS.  399 

No.  705.  Cotelettes  de  Mouton  auapetites  racines. 

Prepare  and  fiy  twelve  cotelettes  as  directed  for  cotelettes 
a  la  Soubise^  dress  in  crown  and  proceed  as  for  the  gre* 
nadins  de  veau  (No.  692),  glaze  them  Ughtly  and  serve. 

No.  706.  Cotelettes  de  Mauton  sauce  jpiquante. 

Dress  the  cotelettes  as  above,  glaze  lightly  md  serve  with 
sauce  piqoante  (No.  27)  over  them. 

No.  707.  Cotelettes  de  Mouton  a  la  Jardiniere. 

Dress  twelve  cotelettes  as  before  described,  dish  as  usual, 
have  ready  a  sauce  jardiniere  (No.  100),  place  the  vege- 
tables, and  sauce  in  the  centre,  glaze  the  cotelettes  lightly, 
and  serve. 

No.  708.  Cotelettes  de  Mouton  aux  champignons. 

Dress  and  dish  twelve  cotelettes  as  in  the  last,  and  have 
ready  the  following  sauce :  put  a  pint  of  demi-glace  (No.  9) 
in  a  stewpan,  with  a  little  consomme,  reduce  it  a  Uttle,  and 
skim;  then  add  thirty  mushrooms,  season  with  a  Uttle 
pepper  and  sugar,  add  a  small  piece  of  glaze  half  the  size 
of  a  walnut,  and  boil  altogether  ten  minutes;  pour  the 
sauce  in  the  middle  of  the  cotelettes,  which  glaze  and  serve. 

No.  709.  Cotelettes  de  Mouton  a^w  navets  au  brun. 

Dress  and  dish  twelve  cotelettes  as  in  the  last,  have  pre- 
pared forty  scoops  of  turnips,  each  the  size  of  a  marble, 
put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  an  ounce  of  butter,  and  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  sugar,  pass  over  a  fire  ten  minutes,  keeping 
them  tossed,  to  prevent  their  burning,  then  add  a  pint  of 
brown  sauce  (No.  1)  and  half  a  do.  of  consomme,  stand 
it  on  the  comer  of  the  stove,  skim  well,  and  let  it  remain 
till  the  turnips  are  tender,  and  the  sauce  becomes  rather 


800  SNTRSE8. 

thick ;  then  pour  it  in  the  centre  of  the  cotelettes,  which 
glaze  and  serve;  should  the  turnips  be  done  before  the 
sauce  is  thick,  take  them  out  with  a  colander  spoon  until  it 
has  sufficiently  reduced. 

No.  710.  Cotelettea  de  Mouton  a  la  Palestine. 

Dress  and  dish  twelve  cotelettes  as  before,  have  ready 
the  following  sauce :  scoop  forty  scoops  of  Jerusalem  arti- 
chokes the  size  of  the  turnips  in  the  last,  and  proceed  ex- 
actly the  same,  using  white  sauce  (No.  7),  and  white  stock 
instead  of  brown,  and  finishing  with  a  good  tablespoonful 
of  liaison;  serve  as  before;  they  must  not  be  boiled  too 
quickly,  or  they  vrill  break  to  pieces. 

No.  711.   Cotelettes  de  Mouton  auxpointes  ffa^erges. 

Prepare  and  dress  the  cotelettes  as  before,  have  ready 
boiled,  veiy  green,  half  a  bundle  of  sprue  grass  cut  into 
pieces  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  length,  put  eight  tablespoon- 
ftds  of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  with  four  of  white  stock  in  a 
stewpan,  and  when  a  Uttle  reduced  add  the  sprue,  with 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  sugar,  and  a  little  salt ;  let 
boil  a  minute,  and  finish  with  a  liaison  of  half  a  yolk  of  e^ 
mixed  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  sauce  in  the  centre 
of  the  cotelettes,  which  glaze  lightly,  and  serve.  When 
sprue  grass  is  cheap,  dress  it  thus  for  cotelettes :  you  have 
cut  and  boiled  a  bunch  very  green ;  drain  it  upon  a  sieve, 
and  whilst  hot  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  six  pats  of 
butter,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  the  half  of  one  of  sugar ; 
place  over  the  fire,  stirring  round  gently  until  the  butter  is 
melted,  then  dress  them  in  a  pyramid  in  the  centre  of  the 
cotelettes,  pour  a  thin  bechamel  sauce  round,  glaze  the 
cotelettes,  and  serve.  By  this  simple  method  you  retain 
the  full  fiavour  of  the  grass. 


SNTREES.  301 

No.  712.  Cotelettes  de  Mauton  aux  haricots  verts. 

Ptoceed  exactly  as  before,  using  some  French  beans  cut 
in  diamonds  and  nicely  boiled,  instead  of  the  sprue  grass, 
dress  the  beans  in  either  of  the  above  methods. 

No.  713.  Cotelettes  de  Mouton  aux petits  pois. 

Dress  and  dish  your  cotelettes  as  usual,  have  ready, 
nicely  boiled,  a  pint  of  young  peas  (No.  1075)  which  put  in 
a  stewpan  with  an  ounce  of  iresh  butter,  two  spoonfuls  of 
white  sauce,  a  bunch  of  green  onions,  half  a  teaspoonfol  of 
sugar,  and  a  little  salt ;  keep  them  moving  over  the  fire  by 
shaking  the  stewpan  till  they  are  quite  hot ;  take  out  the 
onions,  finish  with  a  Uaison  of  a  yolk  of  egg  and  two  table- 
spoonfiils  of  cream,  dress  the  peas  in  the  centre,  glaze  the 
cotelettes,  and  serve.  The  peas  may  also  be  dressed  in 
either  of  the  methods  directed  in  the  two  last. 

No.  714.   Cotelettes  de  Mouton  aux  chouxfleurs. 

Dress  the  cotelettes  as  before,  have  nicely  boiled  two 
smaQ  cauliflowers,  put  ten  tablespoonfuls  of  white  sauce 
(No.  7)  in  a  stewpan,  with  half  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar  and 
a  little  salt;  divide  each  cauUflower  into  eight  pieces,  and 
when  the  sauce  boils  add  them  to  it,  finish  with  a  liaison  of 
half  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  mixed  with  three  tablespoonfids  of 
cream,  and  serve  as  before.  The  cauliflower  must  not  be 
too  much  done,  or  it  would  break  to  pieces. 

No.  715.  Cotelettes  de  Mouton  aux  irwffes. 

Proceed  with  the  cotelettes  as  before,  put  a  pint  of  demi- 
glace  (No.  9)  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  little  consomme,  and 
reduce  till  it  adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon ;  have  six 
middhng-sized  preserved  truffles  cut  in  thin  slices,  which 
throw  into  the  sauce  whilst  boiling,  season  with  a  Uttk 


802  SNTRSBS. 

sugar,  boil  all  together  a  few  minutes,  glaze  the  ootdettes^ 
sauce  over,  and  serve. 

No.  716.   Cotelettes  de  Motdon  a  la  Maintenon. 

Have  twelve  cotelettes  nicely  cut,  lay  them  on  the  table 
and  season  lightly,  put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  oil  in  a  saute- 
pan,  lay  in  your  cotelettes,  and  fry  over  a  moderate  fire  till 
three  parts  done,  take  them  out,  and  put  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  chopped  onions  in  the  saute-pan ;  &y  till  of  a  light  brown 
colour,  pour  off  as  much  of  the  oil  as  possible,  add  a  pint 
of  brown  sauce  (No.  1),  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  tomata 
sauce  (No.  37),  with  a  little  consomme,  a  teaspoonful  of 
chopped  mushrooms,  one  of  chopped  parsley,  a  little  sugar, 
grated  nutmeg,  pepper,  and  salt ;  reduce  till  rather  thick, 
then  throw  in  the  cotelettes  for  a  few  minutes,  turn  out  on 
a  dish,  and  leave  them  to  get  cold  in  the  sauce ;  have  twelve 
pieces  of  white  paper,  each  cut  in  the  shape  of  a  heart  and 
large  enough  to  fold  a  cotelette  in,  rub  a  httle  oil  over,  and 
place  a  cotelette  in  each  v^ith  as  much  of  the  sauce  as  pos- 
sible ;  fold  them  up,  and  broil  ten  minutes  over  a  mod<9tite 
fire,  dress  them  in  a  crown  on  your  dish,  without  taking 
them  out  of  the  papers,  which  must  well  cover  the  cotelettes, 
or  they  would  be  very  diy. 

No.  717.  Cotelettes  de  Mouton  sauce  remoulade. 

Dress  twelve  cotelettes  as  for  sauce  Soubise  (No.  708), 
then  put  six  tablespoonfuls  of  white  sauce  (No.  7)  in  a 
stewpan,  vdth  three  of  veal  stock  or  consomme,  place  it  over 
the  fire,  and  when  boiling  add  an  equal  quantity  of  sauce 
tartare  (No.  38)  stir  over  the  fire  till  hot,  but  do  not  let  it 
boil,  sauce  under,  and  serve. 

No.  718.  Cotelettes  de  Mouton  a  la  Financiere, 
Proceed  with  the  cotelettes   as   before,  and  serve  the 


XNTBEES.  SOS 

ragout  a  la  finandere  (No.  50)  in  the  centre,  only  observe 
that  the  garniture  must  be  very  small,  or  it  would  look 
clomsy  with  such  an  entree  as  cotelettes. 

For  cotelettes  de  mouton  a  I'ltalienne,  ditto,  sauce  poi- 
vrades,  ditto,  aux  fines  herbes,  and  ditto,  aux  jus  d'echalotte, 
dress  the  cotelettes  as  usual,  and  sauce  over  with  either  of 
the  above-named  sauces  (see  Nos.  SO,  S2,  26  and  27). 

No.  719.   Cotelettes  de  Mouton  a  la  Maitre  d* Hotel. 

Proceed  with  the  cotelettes  as  before  described,  then  put 
eight  tablespoonfiils  of  white  sauce  (No.  7)  in  a  stewpan, 
with  two  of  cream  and  two  of  broth ;  when  boiling  add  one 
ounce  of  maitre  d'hotel  butter  (No.  79),  shake  the  stewpan 
round  till  the  butter  melts,  then  pour  the  sauce  under  the 
cotelettes ;  have  ready  some  Med  potatoes  very  crisp,  cut 
thin,  and  of  the  size  of  six  penny-pieces,  which  build  in 
pyramid  in  the  cratre,  glaze  the  cotelettes  and  serve. 

No.  720.  Cotelettes  de  Mouton  a  la  Hollandaise. 

F^!Oceed  precisdy  as  for  the  last,  only  using  some  sauce 
HoUandaise  (No.  66)  instead  of  the  sauce  maitre  d'hotel, 
fried  potatoes  the  same.  For  the  two  last  entrees  the  sauce 
must  not  be  too  thidk. 

No.  721.  Cotelettes  de  Mouton panee^  ffriUee. 

Prepare  twelve  nke  cotelettes,  which  season  nicely,  egg 
and  bread-crumb  them,  beat  lightly  vnth  a  knife,  have  some 
hot  clarified  butter  in  a  stewpan,  dip  each  ootelette  in,  then 
throw  them  into  bread-crumbs,  beat  again  with  your  knife, 
and  place  them  on  the  gridiron  over  a  moderate  fire,  turn- 
ing them  now  and  then,  ten  minutes  will  be  sufficient,  dress 
in  crown  with  a  Uttle  plain  gravy,  or  with  any  of  the  fore- 
going sauces. 


804  BNTRES8, 

No.  722.   Of  Cotelettea  braised. 

Braised  cotelettes  are  much  more  in  vogue  in  France  than 
in  England,  for  in  the  former  they  prefer  meat  stewed, 
whilst  in  the  latter  the  meat  is  more  succulent  and  tender, 
and  even  for  Soubise  or  Proven^ale  the  cotelette  saute  is 
preferred,  although  properly  they  ought  to  be  braised ;  I 
shall,  therefore,  describe  the  manner  of  braising  them  and 
leave  the  choice  to  my  readers. 

Prepare  a  neck  of  mutton  by  cutting  off  the  chine-bone, 
and  cut  the  cotelettes  as  before,  but  let  them  remain  nearly 
of  the  same  thickness  you  cut  them  from  the  neck,  which 
will  be  nearly  an  inch,  then  stick  five  or  six  pieces  of  fat 
bacon  about  the  size  of  a  quill  through  the  lean  of  each 
cotelette,  cutting  off  the  ends,  then  cover  the  bottom  of  a 
stewpan  with  thin  sUces  of  fat  bacon  and  lay  twelve  cote- 
lettes over,  all  laying  on  the  same  side,  just  cover  them 
with  stock,  to  which  add  an  onion,  three  cloves,  and  a 
bunch  of  parsley,  place  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper  over  them, 
and  place  them  over  a  slow  fire  to  simmer  between  two  and 
three  hours,  try  them  and  if  very  tender  place  them  upon 
an  oval  dish,  with  a  Uttle  of  their  stock,  place  another  dish 
over  them  upon  which  put  a  seven  pounds  weight ;  when 
quite  cold  trim  nicely  of  equal  sizes  and  put  them  in  a 
saute-pan  with  their  stock  to  warm,  dress  them  in  crown 
on  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes,  and  serve  with  a  sauce 
Soubise  (No.  47),  or  any  other  sauce  as  directed  for  the 
cotelettes  sautes.  Although  these  cotelettes  are  required  to 
be  tender  they  must  not  be  too  much  done  or  the  bones 
would  fall  from  them. 

No.  723.  Cotelettes  de  Mouton  braise  a  la  Marseillaise. 

Cook  your  cotelettes  as  directed  in  the  last,  but  cut  them 
rather  small ;  when  cold  cover  all  over  with  the  preparation 


SNTRBBS.  305 

of  onion  as  for  ootelettes  a  la  Proven^ale,  egg  and  bread- 
crumb all  over  and  place  them  in  the  oven  for  a  quarter  of 
an  hour,  dress  in  crown,  previously  giving  them  a  nice 
colour  with  a  salamander,  and  serve  with  a  sauce  Soubise 
(No.  47)  much  thinned,  with  cream  under  them. 

No.  724.   Carbonade  of  Mutton. 

Prepare  a  loin  of  mutton  as  a  carbonade  (see  flancs 
No.  577),  and  when  cold  cut  it  in  sUces  rather  more  than 
half  an  inch  in  thickness,  reduce  the  stock  the  carbonade 
was  boiled  in  to  a  thin  glaze,  put  the  sUces  in  a  saut6-pan 
and  pour  it  over  them,  place  them  over  a  slow  fire  till  quite 
hot,  dress  them  in  crown  on  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes, 
and  serve  with  any  of  the  sauces  named  for  cotelettes. 

No.  725.  Poitrine  de  Mouton  sauce piquawte. 

Braise  and  press  abreast  of  mutton  as  directed  (No. 487), 
and  when  cold  cut  ten  pieces  out  of  it  in  the  shape  of  cote- 
lettes, one  third  fat  and  two  thirds  lean,  but  not  too  large, 
egg,  bread-crumb,  and  broil  as  for  cotelettes  panees  griUees 
(No.  72 1),  dress  in  crown  on  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes, 
glaze  and  serve  with  sauce  piquante  (No.  27)  in  the  centre. 
They  may  also  be  served  with  sauce  Soubise  (No.  47),  poi- 
vrade  (No.  82),  jus  d'echalotte  (No.  16),  or  fines  herbes 
(No.  26). 

No.  726.  Bognons  de  Mouton  a  la  brochette. 

Mutton  kidneys  dressed  in  this  manner  are  usually  served 
for  breakfast  or  luncheon,  but  they  may  be  sensed  as  an 
entree  for  dinner.  Procure  nine  fresh  kidneys,  cut  them 
open  and  run  silver  or  wooden  skewers  through  to  keep 
them  open,  season  well,  egg  over  with  a  paste-brush,  and 
dip  them  into  a  dish  of  bread-crumbs,  broil  over  a  moderate 
fire,  about  ten  minutes  will  be  sufficient ;  when  done  dress 

20 


806  ENTR££S. 

them  on  your  dish  in  pyramid,  place  a  piece  of  maitre 
d'hotel  butter  (No.  79)  in  each,  half  the  size  of  a  walnut, 
place  them  in  the  oven  two  minutes,  glaze  lightly  and  serve 
very  hot. 

No.  727.  Bognons  a  la  Tartare. 

Broil  nine  kidneys  as  above,  and  serve  with  a  good  sauce 
a  la  tartare  (No.  38)  under  them. 

No.  728.  Mognons  de  Mouton  a  la  Venitienne. 

Cut  ten  fresh  kidneys  in  halves  the  long  way,  take  off 
the  skins  and  cut  out  the  roots,  or  they  would  shrink  in 
cooking ;  put  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saute-pan,  with  a 
spoonful  of  chopped  eschalots,  place  the  pan  on  the  fire  and 
as  soon  .  as  the  butter  melts  place  in  the  kidneys,  fiy  about 
five  minutes,  and  when  half  done  turn  them,  dress  them 
in  a  crown  on  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes,  and  put  them 
somewhere  to  keep  hot;  pour  as  much  of  the  butter  as 
possible  from  the  saute-pan,  and  put  in  a  pint  of  brown 
sauce  (No.  1)  and  six  spoonfuls  of  consomme;  boil  alto- 
gether ten  minutes,  then  add  half  an  ounce  of  anchovy  butter 
(No.  78)  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  mix  it  well  in,  sauce 
over  the  kidneys  and  serve. 

No.  729.  Rognons  de  Mouton  saute  au  vin  de  champagne. 

Skin  eight  kidneys  and  cut  them  into  thin  slices,  put  an 
ounce  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  place  it  over  the  fire,  and 
when  the  butter  begins  to  brown  throw  in  the  kidneys,  stir 
round  with  a  wooden  spoon  and  when  they  become  firm 
add  a  small  tablespoonful  of  flour,  mix  well,  add  two  wine- 
glasses of  champagne  with  two  of  white  broth  and  twenty 
blanched  mushrooms ;  let  all  boil  very  gently  a  few  minutes, 
season  with  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  a  little  pepper,  salt, 
and  chopped  parsley;  pour  them  out  on  your  disk  and 


ENTR£ES.  307 

a 

serve.     The  sauce  requires  to  be  rather  thick,  sherry  or 
hock  may  be  used  instead  of  champagne. 

No.  730.  Pieds  de  Mouton  a  la  Poulette. 

Proceed  as  directed  for  the  flanc  (No.  630)  and  serve 
them  in  a  small  casserole  of  rice,  according  to  the  size  of 
your  entree  dish. 

No.  731.  Pieds  de  Motdon  a  la  puree  d^oignona. 

Cook  the  feet  as  directed  (No.  630),  and  have  ready  pre- 
pared the  following  puree :  peel  and  cut  in  dice  foiur  large 
onions,  which  put  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  butter  over  the  fire,  keeping  them  stirred  with  a  wooden 
spoon  till  tender,  then  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  mix 
well,  a  pint  of  milk  and  a  little  broth,  season  with  pepper, 
salt,  and  sugar,  keep  boiling  till  the  onions  are  quite  done, 
then  put  in  the  feet,  which  let  simmer  a  few  minutes,  finish 
with  a  liaison  of  two  yolks  of  eggs  mixed  with  half  a  gill  of 
cream,  stir  well,  and  place  it  over  the  fire  a  minute,  keeping 
it  stirred  to  thicken,  serve  either  on  a  dish  or  in  a  casserole 
of  rice  (No.  626).  They  require  to  be  seasoned  rather 
highty. 


ENTREES    OF   LAMB. 

No.  732.  Pieds  d'Agneau, 

Lambs'  feet  are  cooked  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
sheeps'  but  do  not  require  quite  so  long  to  stew ;  having 
previously  cooked  ten  feet  put  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (No.  7) 
in  a  stewpan,  with  half  a  pint  of  white  stock  and  four  but- 
ton onions ;  reduce  to  half,  then  pass  it  through  a  tammie 
over  the  feet  into  another  stewpan,  season  vdth  a  little  pep- 


308  ENTREES. 

per;  salt,  and  sugar,  add  twenty  heads  of  mushrooms  and  a 
little  chopped  parsley ;  simmer  altogether  two  or  three  mi- 
nutes, add  a  little  lemon-juice,  and  finish  with  a  liaison  of 
two  yolks  of  eggs  mixed  with  half  a  gill  of  cream,  mix 
quickly  and  serve  in  a  pate  chaud  (No.  618),  or  casserole  of 
rice  (No.  626),  made  according  to  the  size  of  your  dish. 

No.  733.  Pieds  d^ Agneau  fards. 

Have  eight  feet  ready  cooked  and  cold,  then  have  pre- 
pared a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  veal  forcemeat  (No.  120), 
with  which  add  a  little  chopped  parsley,  chopped  eschalots, 
and  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  fill  the  part  of  the  feet  with  it  from 
which  you  took  the  large  bone,  put  them  again  into  the 
stock  they  were  cooked  in  and  simmer  twenty  minutes, 
take  them  out,  drain  on  a  cloth,  and  dress  them  in  pyramid 
by  placing  a  little  mashed  potato  upon  the  bottom  of  the 
dish,  laying  four  at  the  bottom  and  finishing  with  one  at 
the  top,  sauce  over  with  a  sauce  Hollandaise  (No.  66),  and 
serve  with  chopped  gherkins  sprinkled  over  them. 

No.  734.  Pieds  d'Agrteau  en  marinade. 

Having  cooked  eight  feet,  cut  each  one  in  halves  length- 
wise and  put  in  a  basin  vnth  two  onions  shced,  two  bay- 
leaves,  a  sprig  of  thyme,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  a  glass  of 
vinegar,  two  spoonfuls  of  oil,  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper, 
let  them  remain  four  hours,  drain  upon  a  cloth,  and  dip 
them  into  fritter  batter  (No.  1285),  fry  a  nice  light  brown 
colour,  dress  on  a  napkin,  garnish  with  fiied  parsley,  and 
serve  with  some  tomata  sauce  (No.  37)  in  a  boat. 

No.  735.  Pieds  SAgneau  en  cartotiche. 

Have  cooked  eight  feet,  which  dry  upon  a  cloth,  make  a 
sauce  like  for  the  cotelettes  durcelle  (No.  704),  stew  the 
feet  in  it  twenty  minutes,   then  leave  them  to  get  cold 


ENTREES.  309. 

in  the  sauce,  have  eight  pieces  of  cartridge  paper,  (each 
piece  large  enough  to  fold  a  foot  in,)  oil  them  and  lay  in  a 
foot  i^th  as  much  of  the  sauce  as  you  think  sufficient,  roll 
them  round  and  fold  the  paper  at  each  end  to  imitate  a 
cartridge,  broil  them  over  a  slow  fire,  dress  in  pyramid  and 
serve  with  a  little  gravy  in  a  boat. 

No.  736.   Oreilles  d^Agneau  a  la  Belle  Fermtere. 

Procure  eight  or  ten  lambs'  ears  and  put  them  into  luke- 
warm water  to  disgorge  for  two  or  three  hours,  then  make 
a  blanc  (No.  459),  in  which  put  the  ears  to  stew ;  let  them 
be  well  covered  or  they  will  turn  black,  boil  gently  about  an 
hour,  if  done  the  thick  part  of  the  ears  will  feel  tender,  if 
not  ready  to  serve  let  them  remain  in  the  stock  until  wanted, 
make  a  border  of  forcemeat  as  described  for  the  ris  de  veau 
a  la  Turque  (No.  673),  place  it  on  your  dish,  take  out  the 
ears,  make  five  or  six  incisions  in  the  thin  part  of  each  ear 
and  turn  them  back  to  imitate  a  frill,  dress  upon  the  force- 
meat to  imitate  a  vase,  by  turning  the  curl  of  the  ears  out- 
wards, put  some  mashed  potatoes  in  the  centre  of  the  dish, 
upon  which  place  a  fine  green  bunch  of  asparagus  well- 
boiled,  and  not  more  than  four  inches  in  length,  standing 
upright ;  sauce  over  with  a  thin  sauce  a  la  puree  d'asperges 
(No.  102),  and  serve. 

No.  737.   Oreilles  d^Agneau  a  la  Marquise, 

Ck)ok  and  dress  eight  or  ten  lambs'  ears,  as  above,  on  a 
border  of  forcemeat,  only  turning  the  ears  half  reverse  way, 
they  will  then  form  a  crown ;  place  a  plover's  egg  peeled 
and  warmed  in  stock  in  the  hollow  of  each  ear,  and  have 
ready  the  following  sauce :  put  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (No.  7) 
in  a  stewpan  with  eight  tablespoonfuls  of  white  stock  or 
milk,  reduce  one-third,  then  in  another  stewpan  have  ten 
cockscombs  nicely  dressed  and  ten  button  mushrooms,  pass 


SIO  KNTREBS. 

the  sauce  through  a  tammie  upon  them,  place  over  the  fire, 
add  a  gill  of  cream  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  season 
with  a  little  pepper,  salt,  and  sugar ;  when  hot  put  the  gar- 
niture in  the  centre  of  the  dish,  sauce  over  and  serve. 

No.  738.   OreiUea  d'Agneau  a  la  Bavigote. 

Cook  and  dress  ten  ears  precisely  as  in  the  last,  omitting 
the  eggs,  put  half  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (No.  7)  in  a  stew- 
pan  with  half  the  quantity  of  white  stock,  and  let  it  reduce 
one  third;  then  have  ready  two  ounces  of  butter,  with 
which  you  have  mixed  a  teaspoonfiil  of  chopped  tarragon, 
one  of  chopped  chervO,  one  of  chopped  parsley,  and  two  of 
tarragon  vinegar ;  season  with  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  mix 
it  with  the  sauce,  stir  over  the  fire  till  hot,  but  do  not  let  it 
boil,  sauce  over  and  serve. 

No.  739.   OreiUes  d'Agneau  a  la  Maitre  d'Hdtd. 

Proceed  exactly  as  above,  only  using  two  ounces  of 
maitre  d'hotel  butter  (No.  79)  instead  of  the  butter  there 
described. 

No.  740.   OreiUea  d'Agneau  en  marinade. 

When  cooked  cut  each  ear  in  halves,  lengthwise,  and 
proceed  exactly  as  for  the  pieds  d'agneau  (No.  784). 

No.  741.   OreiUes  d* Agneau  farcis. 

Have  eight  ears  cooked  as  before,  dry  them  well  with  a 
cloth,  then  put  half  a  pound  of  veal  forcemeat  (No.  120) 
in  a  basin,  with  a  teaspoonfiil  of  chopped  eschalots  and  one 
of  chopped  mushrooms,  mixed  with  the  yolk  of  one  egg ; 
put  a  spoonful  of  the  forcemeat  in  the  hollow  of  each  ear, 
egg  and  bread-crumb  them  all  over  and  &y  twenty  minutes 
in  lard,  not  too  hot,  or  they  would  be  too  brown  before 
they  were  sufficiently  done;  dress  them  on  a  border  of 


ENTREES.  311 

mashed  potatoes  and  serve  with  a  sauce  Italieniie  (No.  30) 
under. 

No.  742.   Queues  d'Agneau  a  la  Cremiere. 

Lambs'  tails  are  extremely  delicate,  cut  four  into  pieces 
an  inch  and  a  half  in  length,  and  cook  them  as  directed 
(No.  627) ;  when  tender  take  them  out,  put  sixteen  spoon- 
fuls of  white  sauce  in  a  stewpan,  with  four  of  veal  stock, 
boil  five  minutes,  season  with  a  httle  salt,  pepper,  grated 
nutmeg,  and  sugar ;  when  boiling  put  in  the  taUs,  and  two 
minutes  before  serving  add  half  an  ounce  of  butter  and  the 
juice  of  half  a  lemon,  move  the  stewpan  round  over  the  fire 
till  the  butter  is  melted,  add  two  spoonfuls  of  whipped 
cream,  and  when  quite  hot  pour  into  your  dish  and  serve, 
or  they  may  be  served  in  a  vol-au-vent,  casserole  of  rice,  or 
croustade.  Lambs'  taUs  may  be  dressed  in  any  of  the 
methods  directed  for  lambs'  feet,  and  require  to  be  rather 
highly  seasoned. 

No.  743.  Lanffue  d^Agneau  a  la  Persane. 

Procure  eight  lambs'  tongues,  let  them  disgorge  twelve 
hours  in  lukewarm  water,  cover  the  bottom  of  a  stevrpan 
with  thin  slices  of  fat  bacon,  lay  the  tongues  over  and  cover 
them  with  stock,  add  two  onions,  one  carrot,  and  a  bunch 
of  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay-leaf ;  when  boiling  draw  them 
to  the  comer  of  the  stove  to  simmer,  skim  well,  try  when 
done  v^th  a  trussing-needle ;  if  they  feel  tender  take  them 
up,  take  off  the  skin,  trim  a  little  on  each  side,  cut  them  in 
halves  lengthwise  in  the  shape  of  cotelettes,  and  dress  them 
on  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes ;  have  ready  the  following 
sauce  :  put  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  onions  in  a  stewpan 
with  the  half  of  one  of  salad-oil,  pass  them  a  few  minutes 
over  the  fire,  add  a  glass  of  sherry,  boil  a  minute,  then  add 
a  pint  of  white  sauce  (No.  7)  and  six  spoonfuls  of  white 


312  £NTR££S. 

stock,  reduce  till  rather  thick,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped 
mushrooms  and  one  of  chopped  parsley,  season  rather  high, 
draw  it  off  the  fire,  put  in  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  mix 
quickly,  stir  over  the  fire  another  minute  to  thicken,  then 
put  it  on  a  dish  until  cold ;  with  a  knife  spread  it  over  the 
tongues  half  an  inch  in  thickness,  so  as  to  form  one  mass, 
egg  and  bread-crumb  over  and  place  it  in  the  oven  half  an 
hour,  salamander  a  light  brown  colour  and  serve  very  hot, 
vdth  the  following  sauce  round :  put  four  spoonfuls  of  white 
sauce  (No.  7)  in  a  stewpan,  with  four  of  white  broth,  let 
it  boil  a  few  minutes,  then  add  two  spoonfuls  of  cream ;  boil 
all  together,  season  and  serve. 

Calf's  tongue  may  also  be  dressed  eis  in  the  last,  but 
instead  of  being  covered  in  the  manner  there  described, 
serve  it  with  a  sauce  matelote  (No.  62)  in  the  centre  and 
glaze  the  tongue  lightly. 

No.  744.  Lambs  Brains  a  V Innocent, 

Procure  eight  or  ten  lambs'  brains  and  put  them  in  luke- 
warm water  to  disgorge,  take  off  the  skins,  put  the  brains 
in  a  stewpan  with  two  minced  onions,  a  bunch  of  parsley, 
and  a  little  carrot,  cover  with  water,  add  a  glass  of  vinegar, 
and  a  little  salt,  and  boil  them  ten  minutes,  then  lay  them 
on  a  cloth  and  divide  each  piece  in  two  thin  slices,  have 
eight  paper  cases  in  which  lay  the  slices  of  brains,  season- 
ing separately,  place  a  piece  of  butter  on  the  top  of  each, 
with  a  little  chopped  parsley,  lemon-juice,  and  a  spoonful  of 
white  sauce  (No.  7) ;  egg  and  bread-crumb  the  top,  and 
place  them  in  a  hot  oven  to  brown,  dress  up6n  the  dish 
in  the  cases  pyramidically  and  serve. 

No.  745.  Lambs'  Fry, 

Procure  two  sets  of  lambs'  fry,  which  blanch  ten  minutes 
in  boiling  water,  drain  them  on  a  sieve,  and  when  quit« 


SNTRBES.  313 

dry  egg  over  with  a  paste-brush,  throw  them  into  bread- 
cmmbs,  with  which  you  have  mixed  some  chopped  parsley, 
fry  them  in  very  hot  lard  of  a  nice  light-brown  colour, 
dress  pyramidically  upon  a  napkin,  garnish  with  fried 
parsley  and  serve. 

No.  746.  JRis  d^Agneau  aux  petita  poia. 

Procure  ten  lambs'  heart-sweetbreads,  if  not  very  white 
lay  them  in  lukewarm  water  to  disgorge,  put  them  in  a 
stewpan  of  boiling  water  to  blanch,  two  minutes  will  be 
sufficient ;  throw  them  into  a  basin  of  cold  water,  and  when 
cold,  lard  very  neatly  with  very  thin  strips  of  bacon,  when 
larded  cover  the  bottom  of  the  stewpan  with  thin  shces  of 
fat  bacon,  two  onions  sliced,  and  a  little  parsley,  thyme, 
and  bay-leaves,  lay  the  sweetbreads  over,  and  put  in  suf- 
ficient broth  to  come  up  to  their  sides,  set  them  in  a  sharp 
oven  for  about  twenty  minutes,  glaze  and  salamander  very 
lightly ;  then  have  ready  prepared  a  border  of  forcemeat  as 
directed  for  ris  de  veau  a  la  Turque  (No.  673),  which  place 
in  the  centre  of  your  dish,  dress  the  sweetbreads  upon  it, 
then  have  a  pint  of  young  peas  nicely  boiled,  put  them  in  a 
stewpan  with  three  pats  of  butter  and  a  teaspoonful  of 
sugar,  pass  over  the  fire  five  minutes,  and  finish  with  a 
liaison  of  half  the  yolk  of  an  egg  mixed  with  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  cream,  place  them  in  the  centre,  glaze  the  sweet- 
breads lightly  and  serve. 

No.  747.  Ris  d^Agneau  a  la  Camba^erea. 

Lard,  cook,  and  dress  eight  nice  sweetbreads  as  above, 
then  have  nicely  cooked  nine  very  fine  cockscombs  (No. 
1 28),  and  place  one  between  each  sweetbread ;  have  also  the 
following  garniture  and  sauce:  prepare  thirty  very  small 
quenelles  of  fowl  (No.  122),  poach  them  in  stock,  drain  on 
a  cloth,  and  put  them  in  a  stewpan,  with  six   truffles 


814  BNTRB£8. 

turned  to  the  size  of  small  marbles,  and  twelve  fine  olives 
(stoned)  in  another  stewpan,  put  half  a  glass  of  sheny,  a 
bay-leaf,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  onions,  and  a  pieoe 
of  glaze  the  size  of  a  nut,  boil  two  minutes,  then  add  a 
pint  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1)  and  eight  spoonfuls  of  con- 
somme, reduce  to  a  good  thickness,  and  add  the  trimmings 
of  some  fresh  mushrooms,  then  pass  it  through  a  tammie 
over  the  garniture,  boU  all  together  one  minute,  add  a 
quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  and  pour  the  sauce  in  the 
middle  of  the  dish,  building  the  garniture  in  a  dome,  and 
placing  the  remaining  cockscombs  on  the  top,  glaze  the 
sweetbreads  hghtly  and  serve. 

No.  748.  Bis  d^Agneau  atuc  concombres. 

Lard,  cook,  and  dress  ten  sweetbreads  as  before,  and 
serve  a  sauce  aux  concombres  (No.  103)  in  the  centre; 
they  may  also  be  served  with  a  sauce  a  la  jardiniere  (No. 
100),  pointes  d'asperges  (No.  101),  sauce  tomate  (No. 
87),  &c. 

No.  749.  Bis  d^Agneau  a  la  Madone. 

Blanch  ten  nice  sweetbreads,  trim  them  well,  cut  a  deep 
incision  in  the  centre  of  each,  in  which  stick  a  very  fine 
cockscomb  (No.  128) ;  surround  each  sweetbread  with  a 
slice  of  fat  bacon,  place  them  in  a  stewpan  and  braise  as 
before,  but  they  must  be  kept  quite  white,  braise  half  an 
hour,  take  off  the  bacon  and  dress  them  upon  a  border  of 
forcemeat  as  the  last,  the  cockscombs  will  be  quite  firm, 
then  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  peel  and  mince  the 
haK  of  a  very  small  cucumber  and  put  it  in  a  stewpan  with  a 
chopped  eschalot  and  a  pat  of  butter,  let  them  go  gently 
over  the  fire,  stirring  occasionally,  until  it  has  become  quite 
a  puree,  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  the  flesh  of  a  cooked 
fowl  well  pounded  in  a  mortar,  season  with  a  Uttle  salt  and 


ENTa££8.  816 

pepper,  boil  all  together  five  mmutes,  mb  it  through  a  tam- 
mie,  put  into  a  clean  stewpan,  and  when  boiling  finish  with 
a  tablespoonfiil  of  whipped  cream,  sauce  over  and  serve. 
The  sauce  must  not  be  too  thick. 

IFor  atelettes  de  ris  d'agneau,  see  atelettes  de  ris  de  veau 
(No.  682),  and  proceed  in  the  same  manner. 

No.  750.  Bpigramme  d^Agneau  aux  haricots  verts. 

Procure  the  ribs  of  a  lamb,  saw  off  the  breast  as  large  as 
possible,  leaving  the  bones  of  the  neck  long  enough  to  cut 
cotelettes,  braise  and  press  as  directed  for  breast  of  mutton 
(No.  487) ;  the  day  before  you  want  to  use  it,  cut  seven 
nice  cotelettes  from  the  neck,  then  cut  seven  pieces  &om 
the  breast,  rather  small,  and  the  shape  of  hearts,  egg  and 
bread-crumb  the  cotelettes,  which  also  fry  in  the  same 
saute-pan,  the  whole  of  them  to  be  of  a  nice  light-brown 
colour,  make  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes  upon  your  dish, 
on  which  dress  the  cotelettes  upon  one  side  and  the  pieces 
of  breast  on  the  other,  have  one  hundred  French  beans  cut 
iu  diamonds  and  boiled  very  green,  drain  them  quite  dry 
on  a  sieve,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  fresh  butter,  a  little  pepper,  salt,  a  teaspoonful  of 
sugar,  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon ;  set  over  the  fire  till  very 
hot,  dress  them  in  the  centre,  glaze  the  cotelettes  and 
breast  lightly,  pour  nearly  half  a  pint  of  thin  white  sauce 
round  and  serve  very  ^ot. 

No.  751-  Epigramme  ^Agneau  aux  petits  pois. 

Proceed  with  the  breast  and  cotelettes  exactly  as  in  the 
last,  using  peas  instead  of  French  beans,  and  omitting  the 
lemon-juice ;  or  they  may  be  served  with  the  petits  pois  a 
la  Fran^aise  (No.  84),  or  petits  pois  au  lard  (No.  85) ;  ex- 
perience has  taught  me  that  the  above  is  not  only  the  most 
ample  method,  but  the  peas  eat  much  nicer  than  in  either 


SI  6  SNTR££S. 

of  the  other  ways ;  the  peas  must  be  young  and  p^ectly 
fresh,  if  the  reverse  stew  them  by  all  means. 

No.  752.  Uptgramme  d^Agneau  aux  concombres. 

Proceed  exactly  as  before,  using  a  sauce  aux  concombres 
(No.  103)  instead  of  the  other  vegetables. 

No.  753.  Epifframme  d^Agneau  a  VAndenne. 

Prepare  your  cotelettes  and  breast  as  before,  but  dress 
them  alternately  on  the  dish ;  you  have  previously  roasted 
a  shoulder  of  lamb,  when  cold  cut  half  a  pound  of  the  best 
part  out,  which  cut  into  slices  the  size  of  half-a-crown,  cut 
also  ten  fine  heads  of  blanched  mushrooms  in  two  slices 
and  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  the  lamb ;  in  another 
stewpan  put  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  six  spoonfuls  of 
white  stock,  with  four  of  boiled  milk  and  a  bunch  of  parsley, 
reduce  to  a  proper  thickness,  pass  it  through  a  tammie  over 
the  lamb  and  mushrooms,  place  over  the  fire  to  boil,  season 
lightly  with  a  little  pepper,  salt,  sugar,  and  the  juice  of  half 
a  lemon ;  let  simmer  a  few  minutes,  add  a  liaison  of  one 
yolk  of  egg  mixed  with  half  a  gill  of  cream,  move  the  stew- 
pan gently  over  the  fiore  till  the  sauce  thickens,  pour  the 
sauce  in  the  centre,  glaze  the  cotelettes  and  serve. 

Although  this  way  of  serving  an  epigramme  is  good,  yet  I 
give  the  preference  to  the  other,  for  the  lamb  coming  in 
season  with  the  vegetables  they  look  so,  much  more  inviting ; 
the  epigramme  a  Tancienne  I  consider  fitter  for  a  winter  dish. 

No.  754.   Cotelettes  d^Agneau  aux petits  poi%. 

Lamb  cotelettes  require  great  attention,  both  in  cutting, 
bread-crumbing,  and  frying.  Cut  twelve  cotelettes  of  the 
same  size  and  shape  as  represented  in  the  engraving,  lay 
them  upon  a  dish,  season  lightly  with  white  pepper  and 
salt,  put  three  yolks  of  eggs  upon  another  plate,  which  mix 


ENTREES.  317 

with  a  tablespoonful  of  cream,  rub  each  cotelette  in  it  and 
afterwards  into  very  fine  bread-crumbs,  beat  them  lightly 
with  your  knife,  keeping  them  in  their  shapes,  have  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  butter  in  a  small  stewpan,  let  it  boil  at 
the  comer  of  the  stove,  skimming  it  until  perfectly  clarified, 
then  pour  it  into  a  thick  flat-bottomed  saute-pan  over  a 
brisk  fire,  lay  in  the  cotelettes  (turning  them  two  or  three 
times,  which  will  cause  them  to  be  a  Ught  brown  coloiu-) ; 
fry  very  crisp,  not  doing  them  too  much  ;  if  properly  done 
they  will  be  very  full  of  gravy ;  to  ascertain  when  done 
press  them  lightly  with  the  point  of  your  knife ;  if  beginning 
to  feel  a  little  firm  they  are  done ;  take  them  out,  glaze  very 
lightly,  dress  them  in  your  dish  upon  a  border  of  mashed 
potatoes  the  reverse  way,  the  bones  pointing  outwards,  and 
serve  the  peas  dressed  as  for  epigramme  (No.  750)  in  the 
centre.  My  object  in  using  mashed  potatoes  is  to  keep  the 
cotelettes  in  their  places  in  being  carried  to  table.  Why  I 
recommend  a  thick-bottomed  saute-pan  is  that  the  thin  ones 
by  the  action  of  the  fire  frequently  rise  in  the  centre,  which 
wonld  cause  the  cotelettes  to  bum  and  completely  spoil  this 
delicate  entree. 

No.  755.  Cotelettes  d'Agneau  aux pointe%  fTasperges. 

Prepare  and  dress  twelve  lamb  cotelettes  as  above,  and 
serve  with  the  garniture  aux  pointes  d'asperges. 

No.  756.  Cotelettes  dHAgneau  aux  haricots  verts. 

Prepare  and  dress  the  cotelettes  as  before,  and  serve  with 
the  garniture  aux  haricots  vert. 

No.  757.  Cotelettes  d'Agneau  aux  racines  glacees. 

Prepare  your  cotelettes  as  above,  dress  them  on  a  smaU 
border  of  mashed  potatoes,  then  have  ready  the  young 
vegetables  and  sauce  as  directed  for  grenadins  de  veau  aux 


318  ENTREES. 

racines  nouvelles  (No.  692),  dress  the  vegetables  in  pyramid 
in  the  centre,  sauce  round,  glaze  lightly  and  serve. 

In  a  large  dinner  where  you  are  obliged  to  cook  your 
cotelettes  some  time  before  serving,  put  them  into  a  saute- 
pan,  half  cover  them  with  thin  glaze,  and  keep  hot  till 
wanted.  This  remark  appUes  to  every  description  of  cote- 
lettes. 

No.  758.  Cotelettes  d^Agneau  oMxjeunes  oigwms. 

Prepare  and  dress  twelve  lamb  cotelettes  as  before ;  have 
ready  the  following  sauce :  peel  fifty  spring  onions  nearly  as 
large  as  marbles,  put  half  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar  into  a 
stewpan,  place  it  over  the  fire  and  when  melted  add  two 
pats  of  butter  and  your  onions,  pass  over  a  slow  fire  twenty 
minutes  or  till  tender,  tossing  them  occasionally,  then  add 
fifteen  spoonfuls  of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  with  eight  of  white 
stock  and  a  small  bunch  of  parsley,  simmer  at  the  comer  of 
the  fire  a  few  minutes,  skim  well,  take  out  the  parsley,  make 
a  liaison  of  one  yolk  of  an  egg  mixed  with  two  tablespoon- 
fdls  of  cream,  stir  in  quickly,  stir  another  minute  over  the 
fire  to  thicken,  sauce  in  the  middle  of  the  cotelettes,  which 
glaze  and  serve ;  should  the  onions  be  too  much  done  take 
them  out  with  a  colander  spoon,  place  them  in  a  clean 
stewpan,  reduce  the  sauce  and  pass  it  through  a  tammis 
over  them. 

No.  769.  Cotdettea  SAgneau  a  la  Palestine. 

Proceed  exactly  as  for  cotelettes  de  mouton  (No.  710), 
but  scooping  the  artichokes  a  size  smaller. 

No.  760.  Cotelettes  d^Agneau  a  la  Vicomtesse. 

Proceed  as  for  cotelettes  de  mouton  a  la  vicomtesse 
(No.  699). 


ENTREES.  319 

Na  761^  Cotelettes  d!Agi(ieau  a  la  puree  de  tn^ea. 

Prepare  twelve  lamb  cotelettes  as  usual,  and  have  ready 
the  following  puree :  put  six  large  French  truffles  in  a  mor- 
tar and  pound  them  very  fine,  then  put  a  pint  of  demi- 
glaoe  (No.  9)  in  a  stewpan,  with  four  spoonfuls  of  con- 
sonmie,  reduce  a  few  minutes,  keeping  it  stirred,  add  the 
pounded  truffles  and  a  Httle  sugar,  simmer  a  couple  of 
minutes,  rub  it  through  a  tammie  with  a  couple  of  wooden 
spoons,  put  it  again  into  a  stewpan  to  make  hot,  sauce 
under  the  cotelettes,  which  glaze  and  serve. 

The  French  raw  truffles  are  the  best,  but  if  you  cannot 
obtain  them  use  the  preserved,  or  raw  English  truffles  if 
most  handy,  but  choose  the  blackest  you  can  get. 

No.  762.  Cotelettes  d^Agneau  a  lapurSe  de  champignons. 

Prepare  twelve  cotelettes  as  usual,  which  glaze  and  serve 
with  a  sauce  a  la  pur^  de  champignons  (No.  64)  under 
them. 

No.  763.  Cotelettes  d^Agneau  a  la  puree  d'artichauts. 

Prepare  the  cotelettes  as  usual,  and  have  ready  the  fol- 
lowing puree :  peel  and  sUce  eight  large  Jerusalem  arti- 
chokes, and  one  small  onion,  put  the  onion  into  a  stewpan, 
with  an  ounce  of  butter,  two  ounces  of  raw  ham,  a  sprig  of 
thyme,  ditto  parsley,  and  one  bay-leaf ;  stir  over  the  fire 
five  minutes,  then  add  the  artichokes,  with  a  very  little 
white  stock,  cover  the  stewpan  and  place  it  over  a  slow 
fire,  stirring  round  occasionally ;  let  them  remain  till  quite 
tender,  then  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  mix  well,  and 
nearly  a  pint  of  white  stock ;  boil  altogether,  keeping  it 
stirred,  rub  it  through  a  tammie,  place  it  in  another  stew- 
pan, add  a  UtUe  sugar,  pepper,  and  salt,  boil  and  skim 
well,  finish  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  good  cream,  sauce 


320  ENTREES. 

under  the  cotelettes,  which  glaze  and  serve ;  these  purees 
require  to  be  rather  thick,  yet  not  so  thick  as  to  eat  pasty 
and  disagreeable. 

Lamb  cotelettes  may  also  be  served  with  a  puree  of  cauli- 
flowers (No.  97),  cucumbers,  (No.  105),  or  asparagus 
(No.  102). 

No.  764.   Cotelettes  ^ Agneau  fards  aux  truffes. 

Cut,  lard,  and  braise  twelve  lamb  cotelettes  as  described 
for  mutton  (No.  722),  but  they  will  not  require  so  long 
stewing,  press  them  between  two  dishes  untU  cold,  trim 
them  nicely,  then  make  a  puree  of  truffles  as  directed  TNo. 
63),  but  thicker,  take  it  oflF  the  fire  whilst  boiling,  and  stir 
in  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  very  quickly,  place  it  a  moment 
on  the  fire  to  set,  and  pour  on  a  dish  to  get  cold,  then  take 
the  cotelettes  by  the  bones  and  surround  them  with  the 
puree,  spreading  it  over  with  a  knife,  egg  and  bread-crumb 
twice  over,  and  put  them  in  a  wire  basket;  have  four 
pounds  of  lard  in  a  stevrpan  over  the  fire  and  very  hot,  put 
in  the  wire  basket  and  cotelettes,  fry  of  a  nice  hght-brown 
colour,  dress  them  in  crown  on  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes, 
and  serve  with  a  Utile  clear  demi-glace  (No.  9)  in  the  dish. 

No.  765.   Cotelettes  d^ Agneau  fards  aux  champignons. 

Prepare  your  cotelettes  as  above,  make  a  puree  of  mush- 
rooms as  du-ected  (No.  54),  but  thicker,  and  adding  the 
two  yolks  of  eggs  as  in  the  last,  spread  it  over  the  cotelettes, 
bread-crumb,  firy,  and  serve  exactly  as  in  the  last. 

Lamb  cotelettes  farcis  may  also  be  made  v^ith  puree  of 
asparagus  (No.  102),  cauliflower  (No.  97),  artichokes  (No.  90), 
or  cucumbers  (No.  105),  by  following  the  above  articles. 

For  cotelettes  d'agneau  a  la  reform,  Provenpale,  maitre 
d'hotel,  Hollandaise,  poivrade,  piquante,  or  tomates,  see 
cotelettes  de  mouton,  vrith  the  same  sauces,  and  proceed  aa 
there  directed. 


ENTREES.  321 

No.  766.  Blanquette  ^Agneau. 

Roast  a  shoulder  of  lamb,  and  when  cold  cut  the  best 
part  of  it  into  thin  shoes  about  the  size  of  half-crown-pieces, 
cut  also  about  half  the  quantity  of  cooked  ham  or  tongue 
into  pieces  of  the  same  size  as  the  lamb,  put  them  together 
in  a  stewpan ;  you  have  previously  boiled  in  another  stew- 
pan  a  pint  of  good  white  sauce  (No.  7),  and  half  a  pint  of 
stock'  with  a  bunch  of  fresh  parsley  in  it,  which  pass 
through  a  tamnde  over  the  meat,  season  with  pepper,  salt, 
and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  simmer  gently,  pour  on  a  dish 
and  serve ;  truffles  or  mushrooms  may  likewise  be  added, 
and  it  may  be  served  in  a  croustade  of  bread,  casserole  of 
rice  (No.  626),  or  vol-au-vent  (No.  1 140) ;  if  you  have  the 
remains  of  any  joint  of  lamb  it  may  be  usecl  for  the  above 
purpose. 

No.  767.  Croquettes  d^Agneau. 

Hoast  a  shoulder  of  lamb  and  when  cold  cut  it  up  in 
very  small  dice  with  one  fourth  the  quantity  of  cooked  ham 
or  tongue ;  put  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  onions  into  a 
stewpan,  with  an  ounce  of  butter,  pass  it  over  a  fire  till  the 
onion  becomes  yellowish,  then  add  a  little  flour,  mix  well, 
put  in  your  mince,  vrith  about  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (No.  7)» 
season  with  a  little  pepper,  salt,  and  sugar ;  boil  all  together 
five  minutes,  keeping  it  stirred,  if  too  thick  add  a  Uttle 
more  sauce,  then  add  two  yolks  of  eggs,  stir  them  in 
quickly  over  the  fire  for  one  minute,  add  the  juice  of  a 
lemon,  and  pour  it  out  on  a  dish  to  cool ;  when  quite  cold 
take  twelve  pieces  of  it  rather  larger  than  walnuts,  roll  them 
about  two  inches  in  length,  egg  and  bread-crumb  twice 
over  and  fipy  in  very  hot  lard ;  dress  them  on  your  dish  in 
crown  upon  a  small  border  of  mashed  potatoes,  and  serve 
with  some  of  the  blanquette  d'agneau  above,  in  the  centre. 

21 


322  ENTREES. 


ENTREES  OF  PORK. 

Very  few  entrees  are  made  of  pork,  the  ootelettes  being 
the  principal;  they  require  a  sharp  high-seasoned  sauce; 
the  small  pork  only  can  be  used. 

No.  768.  Cotelettea  de  Pore  a  VIndienne, 

Cut  twelve  cotelettes  from  a  neck  of  pork,  similar  to  the 
manner  directed  for  mutton  cotelettes,  only  you  will  be 
able  to  cut  four  cotelettes  without  bones,  by  cutting  a  cote- 
lette  from  between  the  rib-bones,  as  they  require  little  or 
no  beating,  you  cut  them  from  the  neck  of  the  same  thick- 
ness you  require  your  cotelettes,  egg  and  bread-crumb  and 
fry  them  a  nice  colour  in  clarified  butter ;  they  require  to 
be  well  done,  for  underdone  pork  is  very  unwholesome ; 
dress  in  a  crown  upon  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes,  and 
serve  with  a  sauce  a  Tlndienne  (No.  45)  under  them;  if 
for  a  dinner  of  any  importance  omit  the  cotelettes  without 
bones,  using  two  necks  to  obtain  the  quantity. 

No.  769.   Cotelettes  de  Pore  aatice  remoidade. 

Prepare  and  dress  the  cotelettes  as  above,  and  proceed 
as  for  the  mutton  cotelettes,  sauce  remoulade  (No.  717). 

Pork  cotelettes  are  also  served  with  their  original  sauce 
Robert  (No.  28),  sauce  piquante  (No.  27),  au  jus  d'echa- 
lotte  (No.  16),  or  poivrade  (No.  33)  over,  and  with  a  sauce 
tomate  (No.  37)  beneath  them ;  the  cotelettes  require  glaz- 
ing, especially  where  the  sauce  is  served  under  them. 

No.  770.  Cotelettes  de  Pore  a  la  Siamoise. 

Prepare  twelve  cotelettes  as  before,  dress  them  on  your 
dish,  and  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  peel  forty  button 


ENTiUBES.  823 

onions,  then  put  half  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar  in  a  stewpan, 

and  place  it  over  the  fire ;  when  melted  and  beginning  to 

brown,  add   two  ounces  of  butter  and  the  onions;  keep 

tossing  them  over  the  fire  until  they  get  rather  brown,  add 

a  pint  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1),  and  half  the  quantity  of 

consomme;   let  boil  on  the  comer  of  the  stove  till  the 

onions  are  done,  keeping  it  well  skimmed,  the  onions  must 

be  tender  but  not  brokey  take  them  out  carefully  with  a 

colander  spoon  and  place  them  in  a  clean  stewpan ;  reduce 

the  sauce  till  it  adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  add  a 

tablespoonful  of  French  mustard,  and  pass  it  through  a 

tammie  over  the  onions ;  have  also  twenty  little  balls  the 

size  of  marbles,  cut  from  some  gherkins,  which  put  in  the 

sauce,  warm  altogether,  but  do  not  boO,  dress  the  onions 

and  gherkins  in  the  centre,  sauce  over  and  serve. 

No.  771.  Cotelettea  de  Pore  a  la  Bohgnaise. 

Prepare  twelve  cotelettes  as  before,  but  mixing  some 
grated  Parmesan  cheese  with  the  bread-crumbs,  and  fiying 
them  in  oil ;  then  cut  eighty  pieces  of  blanched  macaroni 
(No.  130),  about  three  quarters  of  an  inch  long,  with 
twenty  pieces  of  cooked  ham  or  tongue,  and  twenty  mush- 
rooms the  same  size  as  the  macaroni;  put  them  into  a 
stewpan,  with  two  spoonfuls  of  tomata  sauce  (No.  37),  and 
a  piece  of  glaze  the  size  of  a  walnut ;  place  over  the  fire 
and  when  quite  hot  add  two  ounces  of  grated  Parmesan, 
and  two  of  grated  Gruyere  cheese,  mix  well  together  by 
shaking  the  stewpan  round,  season  with  a  Httle  salt,  pepper, 
and  cayenne,  if  approved  of,  and  pour  in  the  centre  of  your 
cotelettes,  which  glaze  and  serve  with  nearly  half  a  pint  of 
demi-glace  (No.  9)  poured  round  and  over  the  garniture. 

No.  772.  Cotelettes  de  Pore  a  la  Jeune  Franee. 
Prepare  twelve  cotelettes  as  before,  but  cook  them  rather 


324  ENTREES. 

underdone,  have  ready  the  preparation  of  onions  as  for  oote- 
lettes  a  la  Proven^ale  (No.  701),  with  a  spoonful  of  French 
mustard  added,  cover  the  cotelettes  all  over  with  it  about  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  egg,  bread-crumb,  and  fold 
each  one  in  a  piece  of  pig's  caul  to  keep  its  shape,  put  a 
little,  oil  in  the  saute-pan,  lay  in  the  cotelettes,  put  it  over 
the  fire  for  two  or  three  minutes,  then  in  the  oven  to  give 
them  a  good  colour,  if  not  sufficient  colour  pass  the  sala- 
mander'over,  take  them  out,  lay  upon  a  clean  cloth  to 
drain,  dress  in  crown  upon  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes^ 
and  serve  with  a  demi-glace  (No.  9)  round. 

No.  773.  Filets  de  Pore  a  V Hanoverienne. 

Procure  four  small  fillets  of  pork  from  under  the  loins, 
take  off  all  the  skin  and  beat  them  flat,  lard  neatly  with  fine 
bacon  as  for  a  sweetbread,  cover  the  bottom  of  stewpan 
with  thin  sUces  of  baton,  two  onions  in  slices  and  a  little 
parsley,  thyme,  and  bay-leaf,  lay  the  fillets  over,  add  about 
a  pint  of  stock,  stand  it  over  the  fire  five  minutes,  then  put 
it  in  the  oven  ;  when  done  they  will  be  quite  tender,  glaze 
and  salamander  a  nice  colour,  place  them  on  a  clean  cloth 
to  drain,  and  cut  each  fillet  in  halves,  dress  upon  a  border 
of  mashed  potatoes  in  crown,  have  ready  some  very  white 
stewed  choucroute  (No.  116),  which  dress  in  pyramid  in 
the  centre,  put  twelve  spoonfuls  of  brown  sauce  in  a  stew- 
pan  with  four  of  consomme,  a  small  piece  of  glaze,  and  a 
Uttle  powdered  sugar,  reduce  till  rather  thick,  sauce  round 
and  serve.     Your  choucroute  must  be  very  white. 

Fillets  of  pork  may  also  be  served  with  dressed  spinach 
(No.  106),  ditto  endive  (No.  119),  sauce  tomata  (No.  87), 
Robert  (No.  28),  or  Indienne  (No.  45). 

No.  774.  Escalopes  de  Pore  a  la  Lyonnaise, 
Prociu-e  four  fillets  from  the  loin  as  in  the  last,  but  do 


£NTRE£S.  825 

not  lard  them,  cat  them  into  pieces  the  size  and  shape  of  a 
fillet  of  fowl,  egg,  bread-crumb,  and  fry  in  clarified  butter, 
dress  in  crown  on  your  dish,  sauce  over  with  a  brown  Sou* 
bise  (No.  48),  sprinkle  bread-crumbs  over,  salamander  and 
serve. 

Escalopes  may  also  be  served  with  any  of  the  sauces  as 
served  with  the  cotelettes. 

No.  776.  Langtie  de  Pore  demi  sale. 

Have  three  fillets  of  pork  larded,  and  braise  as  (No.  778), 
and  cut  each  fillet  in  halves  to  make  six  pieces,  boil  also 
three  small  pigs'  tongues,  spHt  each  one  in  half,  skin  and 
trim  nicely,  make  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes  on  your  dish, 
upon  which  dress  the  fillets  and  tongues  alternately  in  crown, 
^aze  lightly  and  serve  with  a  sauce  tomate  (No.  87). 

Figs'  tongues  may  be  dressed  in  the  same  manner  as 
calves'  or  sheep,  but  they  are  not  such  deUcate  eating. 


DOB   VENISON,    OE   CHBVREUIL. 

The  flesh  of  the  doe  or  roebuck  is  a  kind  of  black  meat, 
and  possesses  a  wild  gamey  taste ;  it  is  seldom  used  vidthout 
being  pickled  in  a  marinade,  and  is  sent  to  the  table  vnth  a 
sharp  and  savoury  sauce. 

No,  776.  Cotelettes  de  ChevreuU  a  la  Bohemienne. 

C5ut  twelve  cotelettes  firom  the  necks,  the  same  as  you 
would  mutton,  but  they  will  be  rather  larger,  make  two 
quarts  of  the  marinade  as  for  filet  de  boeuf  a  la  Bohe- 
mienne (No.  426),  and  lay  in  the  cotelettes,  let  them  re- 
main four  days ;  when  ready  for  use  take  them  out,  dry 


326  ENTREES. 

upon  a  cloth,  season  with  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  dip  in 
flour,  egg  and  bread-crumb  afterwards,  dip  them  in  cla- 
rified butter,  and  again  in  the  bread-crumbs,  beat  them 
lightly  with  a  knife,  place  them  on  a  gridiron,  broil  niody, 
dress  them  in  crown,  and  have  ready  the  following  sauce  : 
put  six  tablespoonfuls  of  the  marinade  in  a  stewpan,  with  a 
piece  of  glaze  the  size  of  a  walnut,  reduce  it  a  little,  then  add 
twelve  spoonfuls  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1)  and  six  of  con- 
somme, reduce  again  until  it  adheres  to  the  back  of  the 
spoon,  season  a  Httle  high,  add  half  a  tablespoonful  of  cur- 
rant jelly,  sauce  round  and  serve.  Garniture  as  for  cote- 
lettes  de  mutton  may  be  introduced. 

No.  777.  Cotelettea  de  CAevreuil  saute  sauce  poivrade. 

Having  cut  twelve  cotelettes,  season  with  pepper  and  salt, 
put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  in  a  saute-pan,  melt  it 
and  lay  in  the  cotelettes,  put  them  over  a  sharp  fire  and 
when  partly  done  turn,  keeping  them  underdone ;  take  all 
the  butter  away  without  disturbing  the  cotelettes,  then 
pour  a  pint  of  thin  poivrade  sauce  (No.  32)  and  half  a  pint 
of  consomme  over,  let  them  simmer  about  ten  minutes  till 
the  meat  has  taken  the  flavour  of  the  sauce,  dress  the  cote- 
lettes as  before,  reduce  the  sauce  till  it  adheres  to  the  spoon, 
add  twenty  pickled  mushrooms,  sauce  over  and  serve. 

No.  778.  Minced  ChevreuiL 

With  the  remains  of  a  haunch  or  any  other  part  from  a 
previous  dinner,  take  the  meat  and  cut  it  up  in  very  thin  slices, 
have  ready  boiling  on  the  fire  about  a  pint  of  sauce  piquante 
(No.  27),  throw  in  the  meat,  but  do  not  let  it  boil ;  after 
the  meat  is  in,  season  rather  high,  and  finish  with  a  spoon- 
ful of  currant  jelly,  it  requires  to  be  rather  thick,  turn  it  out 
on  your  dish  and  garnish  round  with  triangular  scippets  of 
bread  fried  in  butter,  serve  immediately. 


ENTREES.  327 

No.  779.  Of  the  Wild  Boar. 

The  principal  and  most  recherche  part  of  this  ferocious 
animal  is  the  head,  which  is  eaten  cold,  stuffed  the  German 
fashion  ;  it  is,  however,  a  second  course  dish,  and  will  be 
given  in  that  series.  The  cotelettes  are  dressed  exactly  as  the 
chevreuil,  it  may  also  be  minced,  but  as  it  is  seldom  or  ever 
eaten  in  this  country,  I  shall  content  myself  with  these  few 
remarks  (see  Boar's  Head,  No.  984). 

No.  780.   Of  Venison  for  Entrees. 

ThB  haunches  and  necks  are  usually  roasted,  its  high 
price  would  prevent  its  being  cut  up  for  entrees,  as  that 
would  only  be  spoiling  a  noble  dish  to  make  a  small  one,  and 
then  would  not  be  so  delicious  as  the  joint  nicely  roasted, 
but  in  large  families  in  the  country,  where  venison  is  very 
plentiful,  the  receipts  for  a  few  entrees  may  be  very  accept- 
able. 

No.  781.   Cotelettes  de  Venaison  en  demi-glace, 

A  neck  of  venison  requires  to  be  hung  a  fortnight  or 
three  weeks  before  it  is  ready;  cut  the  cotelettes  as  de- 
scribed for  mutton,  but  of  course  they  will  be  larger,  and 
you  must  leave  as  much  of  the  fat  as  possible,  and  be  care- 
ful in  beating  it  flat  not  to  detach  the  fat  from  the  lean,  as 
the  fat  is  so  delicate ;  put  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saute-pan 
to  melt,  lay  the  cotelettes  over  and  place  them  on  a  brisk 
fire,  when  half  done  turn  them,  fry  them  a  good  colour, 
(they  are  done  when  they  feel  firm  to  the  touch,)  lay  upon 
a  cloth,  dress  in  crown  on  a  small  border  of  mashed  po- 
tatoes, and  place  them  in  the  oven  to  keep  hot,  pour  off  the 
fat  fit)m  the  saute-pan,  and  put  in  a  glass  of  port  wine,  let 
reduce  a  little,  then  add  a  pint  of  demi-glace  (No.  9)  and 
four  spoonfuls  of  consomme,  reduce  till  it  adheres  to  the 


828  SNTREBS. 

spooDj  add  a  little  sugar  and  a  pat  of  butter,  mix  well,  and 
sauce  over  the  cotelettes,  which  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

No.  782.  Cotelettes  de  Fenaison  aux  olives. 

Proceed  exactly  as  above,  but  just  before  pouring  the 
sauce  over  add  about  twenty  stoned  ohves,  dress  them  in 
the  centre,  sauce  over  and  serve;  truffles  or  mushrooms 
may  likewise  be  introduced. 

No.  783.  Cotelettes  de  Venaison  aujus  de  ffroseilles. 

Saute  and  dress  your  cotelettes  as  above,  then  put  a  pint 
of  thin  sauce  poivrade  (No.  82)  in  the  saute-pan  with  a 
httle  consomme,  reduce  till  thickish,  skim  a  Uttle,  add  a 
spoonful  of  currant  jelly,  sauce  over  and  serve. 

No.  784.  Hashed  Venison, 

The  remains  of  a  haunch  of  venison  when  cold  is  inuch 
thought  of  as  hash,  under  which  humble  name  it  makes  its 
appearance  amongst  the  most  sumptuous  dishes,  and  is 
a  great  favourite  with  epicures,  but  if  no  fat  remains  do  not 
attempt  to  dress  it;  but  a  good  haunch  well-carved  will 
supply  sufficient  fat  to  hash  the  remainder. 

Put  a  quart  of  good  brown  sauce  (No.  1)  in  a  stewpan 
with  a  pint  of  consomme  (No.  184),  a  piece  of  glaze,  and  a 
good  bunch  of  parsley,  let  reduce  to  a  good  demi-glace, 
skim,  then  have  as  much  venison  as  you  require  cut  in  thin 
slices,  the  fat  thicker  than  the  lean,  put  it  into  the  sauce, 
season  with  pepper  and  salt,  put  it  over  a  sharp  fire  to  get 
hot  as  quick  as  possible,  but  do  not  let  it  boil  or  it  would 
get  hard  and  become  very  greasy,  serve  as  hot  as  possible^ 
with  red  currant  jeUy  separate,  make  only  sufficient  for  one 
entree. 


ENTREES.  329 

No.  785.   Venison  Fie. 

May  also  be  made  from  the  remains  of  a  hamich  in  a 
common  pie-dish  or  silver  soufflee-dish ;  put  some  thin  slices 
of  venison  at  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  season  with  pepper, 
salty  and  little  chopped  eschalot,  then  a  layer  of  fat,  pro- 
ceeding alternately  till  the  dish  is  full,  building  it  up  to 
form  a  dome  and  give  the  pie  a  good  appearance,  put  in  a 
piece  of  glaze  the  size  of  a  walnut,  a  few  spoonfuls  of  gravy, 
and  four  of  brown  sauce,  cover  with  puff-paste  (No.  1132), 
make  a  hole  in  the  top,  egg  over,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven ; 
when  done  pour  about  six  spoonfuls  of  demi-glace  (No.  9) 
into  it  with  a  funnel,  shake  it  about  a  Httle  and  serve  very 
hot.  Should  you  require  to  make  a  pie  with  raw  venison 
pass  it  a  few  minutes  in  butter  in  a  saute-pan  upon  the 
stove. 


ENTREES   OF   POULTRY. 

No.  786.   Estomac8  de  Dinde  a  la  Turenne. 

Many  entrees  may  be  made  of  turkey,  but  it  is  usually 
served  as  a  remove,  being  too  large,  and  consequently  too 
expensive  to  cut  up ;  but  several  entrees  may  be  made  from 
the  remains  of  one  previously  served,  for  the  following 
choose  very  young  small  turkeys : 

Have  a  young  turkey  well  plucked  and  drawn,  with  a 
sharp  knife  ctU^^ff  the  whole  of  the  breast,  leaving  nothing  but 
the  legs  and  backbone,  then  carefuUy  skin  and  bone  the  breast 
without  separating  the  fillets,  it  will  then  be  in  the  form  of 
a  heart ;  lard  one  of  the  fillets  as  you  would  a  sweetbread, 
and  cover  the  other  with  a  sUce  of  fat  bacon,  put  three  onions, 
one  carrot,  and  one  turnip,  in  slices,  into  a  convenient-sized 


830  ENTBBBS. 

stewpan,  with  a  little  parsley,  thyme,  and  two  bay-leaves, 
cover  them  with  half  a  pint  of  stock,  lay  the  breast  over  and 
start  it  to  boil  over  the  fire,  then  place  it  in  a  moderate 
oven  till  tender,  glaze  and  salamander  the  larded  fillet  a 
light  yellow  oolonr,  bnt  keep  the  other  white,  drain  upon  a 
dean  cloth,  and  serve  with  a  sauce  a  la  puree  de  truffes 
(No.  53)  under  them. 

No.  787.  EstomcLC  de  Binde  a  la  Jeune  Comtesse, 

Prepare  the  breast  as  above,  only  larding  and  glazing 
both  fUlets ;  you  have  previously  roasted  the  legs  tied  up  in 
vegetables,  take  off  all  the  flesh,  which  pound  well  in  a 
mortar  and  pass  through  a  wire  sieve,  then  put  a  spoonful 
of  chopped  eschalots  in  a  stewpan  with  two  pats  of  butter, 
place  it  over  the  fire  a  few  minutes  till  the  eschalots  become 
a  little  yellow,  then  add  a  quarter  of  a  tablespoonful  of 
flour  (mix  well,)  and  the  puree  of  turkey,  which  cover  with 
half  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (No.  7)  and  six  spoonfuls  of  white 
broth,  stir  over  the  fire  until  boiling,  season  with  a  little 
sugar,  pepper,  and  salt,  and  pass  it  through  a  tammie  with 
a  couple  of  wooden  spoons,  put  it  in  a  clean  stewpan,  boil 
a  few  minutes,  then  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  and  a 
pat  of  butter,  which  stir  in  quickly,  pour  it  in  your  dish, 
dress  the  breast  over  and  serve.  The  above  puree  requires 
to  be  rather  thick,  but  at  the  same  time  dehcate,  if  there  is 
more  than  you  require,  reserve  some  of  it,  as  too  much 
sauce  would  spoil  the  look  of  the  entree. 

No.  788.  Escahpea  de  Dinde  en  blanquette. 

Take  out  the  two  fillets  of  a  turkey,  and  take  off  all  the 
skin,  then  beat  them  to  the  thickness  of  a  five-shilling-piece, 
and  from  each  fillet  cut  five  escalopes  in  a  slanting  direc- 
tion, put  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter  in  a  saut6-pan,  place  it 
over  the  fire,  and  when  melted  lay  in  the  escalopes,  season 


£NTR££S.  331 

lightly  with  a  Kttle  white  pepper,  salt,  and  the  juice  of  half 
a  lemon,  place  them  on  a  slow  fire,  turn  them,  pour  off  all 
the  butter  from  the  saute-pan,  and  cover  with  fifteen  spoon- 
fuls of  white  sauce  (No,  7)  and  four  of  milk,  place  over  the 
fire,  let  it  simmer  a  few  minutes,  take  it  off  and  stir  in 
quickly  a  liaison  of  two  yolks  of  eggs  mixed  with  three 
spoonfuls  of  cream,  stir  over  the  fire  another  half  minute, 
but  do  not  let  it  boU,  dress  them  garnished  witlk  croutons 
on  your  dish  and  serve;  a  few  mushrooms  and  aUces  <^ 
cooked  tongue  might  also  be  introduced. 

No.  789.  Escalopes  de  Binde  a  la  Belle  Fermiere, 

Fillet  a  turkey  as  before,  and  cut  each  escalope  into  an 
oval  shape,  season  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  egg  and 
bread-crumb,  fry  a  Kght  brown  colour  in  clarified  butter, 
dress  them  on  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes  in  crown,  with 
a  large  dressed  cockscomb  (No.  128)  between  each,  sauce 
in  the  middle  and  round  as  for  estomac  de  dinde  (No.  787), 
and  serve  very  hot. 

No.  790.  Emincee  de  Dinde  a  Vltalienne 

• 

Is  made  with  the  remains  of  a  turkey  from  a  previous 
dinner,  cut  lai^e  slices  from  the  breast-part,  as  much  as 
you  may  require,  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  six 
gherkins  cut  in  long  slices,  have  ready  a  pint  of  good 
sauce  Italienne  (No.  31),  and  when  boihng  pour  it  over ; 
warm  them  gently,  but  do  not  let  them  boil,  and  serve  in 
a  dish  with  very  small  croquettes  de  pommes  de  terre 
(No.  131)  round. 

No.  791.  Blanquette  de  Dinde  au  Jambon. 

Cut  up  the  remains  of  a  turkey  as  above,  and  put  it  in  a 
stewpan,  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lean  ham  (cooked) 
also  m  slices,  in  another  stewpan,  have  a  pint  of  white 


882  SNTRBES. 

sauce  (No.  7)  and  half  a  pint  of  white  stock,  which  boil 
with  a  few  trimmings  of  mushrooms,  then  pass  it  through  a 
tammie  over  the  sUces  of  turkey,  place  it  on  the  fire,  let 
simmer  a  few  minutes,  season  with  a  little  sugar  and  salt^ 
add  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  finish  with  a  Uaison  of 
two  yolks  of  eggs,  mixed  with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  cream, 
serve  plain  in  your  dish,  or  in  a  vol-au-vent  or  casserole  of 
rice  (No.  626). 

Croquettes,  rissolettes,  and  boudins  are  made  with  the 
remains  of  turkey,  in  the  same  manner  as  described  for 
fowls  (No.  840). 

No.  792.  FUeta  de  Povlardes  a  F Ambassadrice. 

Foulardes  being  smaller  than  capons,  are  better  adapted 
for  entrees,  but  both  are  dressed  in  the  same  manner. 

Have  previously  roasted  in  vegetables  and  quite  white 
two  small  poulardes ;  when  cold,  with  a  sharp  knife  cut  out 
the  fillets,  which  again  cut  into  two  equal  shoes,  beat  them 
shghtly  with  the  blade  of  a  strong  knife,  then  have  ready 
half  a  pound  of  deUcate  forcemeat  of  fowl  (No.  122),  with 
which  put  a  couple  of  finely  chopped  truffles,  cover  each 
piece  of  fillet  the  eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  and  all  over,  then 
have  chopped  finely  two  more  truffles,  the  same  quantity  of 
lean  ham,  mix  the  same  quantity  of  bread-crumbs  with 
each,  egg  the  fillets  over,  then  dip  them  into  the  chopped 
ham  and  truffles,  four  into  each,  and  saute  them  in  clarified 
butter  very  gently,  turn  them  when  half  done,  and  when 
done  dress  them  in  crown  upon  your  dish ;  have  ready  a 
thin  sauce  a  la  puree  de  concombres  (No.  i05),  to  which 
when  boiling  add  twelve  fine  cockscombs  (No.  128)  and  a 
little  cream,  sauce  in  the  middle,  and  serve. 

No.  793.  Filets  de  Poularde  a  la  Marie  Stuart 
Fillet  a  poularde  by  splitting  the  skin  up  the  breast,  and 


ENTREES.  833 

passing  your  knife  down  the  bone,  keeping  dose  to  the 

ribs  until  you  have  scooped  them  out,  then  lay  them  flat 

on  a  board,  and  with  a  thin  knife  take  off  the  inner  skin, 

leaving  the  upper  one  untouched;  then  cut  off  the  legs, 

with  as  much  skin  as  possible  attached,  bone  them,  and 

prepare  the  following  stuffing :  scrape  half  an  ounce  of  fat 

bacon,  and  put  it  in  a  stewpan,  with  four  cloves,  a  blade  of 

mace,  six  peppercorns  and  a  bayJeaf,  pass  them  over  the 

fire  five  minutes,  stirring  with  a  wooden  spoon,  take  out 

the  spice  and  bay-leaf,  add  six  large  truffles  cut  in  thin 

slices,  pass  them  three  miautes  over  the  fire,  then  add  twelve 

spoonfuls  of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  boil  altogether  ten  minutes, 

keeping  it  stirred,  season  with  a  little  salt,  pepper,  sugar, 

and  a  little  nutmeg ;  take  it  off  the  fire,  and  stir  in  the 

yolk  of  an  egg  very  quickly;   when  cold  stuff  the  legs, 

braise,  and  give  them  the  form  of  little  ducks ;  then  stuff 

the  fillets  with  the  best  slices  of  truffles  under  the  skin, 

and  put  them  in  a  saute-pan,  with  half  a  pound  of  butter, 

season  with  a  httle  pepper,  salt,  and  lemon-juice,  saute  them 

very  white  over  a  slow  fire,  then  make  a  little  pyramid  of 

mashed  potatoes  in  the  middle  of  your  dish,  lay  the  two 

fillets  almost  upright  against  it,  opposite  to  each  other,  and 

the  two  legs  on  the  other  sides,  surmount  them  with  a  very 

nice,  white,  dressed  calf  s  ear  (No.  663)  cut  as  a  frill,  with 

a  plover's  egg  (shelled)  placed  ia  the  centre,  make  a  good 

stock  with  the  bones  of  the  poularde  (see  No.  6),  skim  off 

aQ  the  fat,  and  reduce  it  very  nearly  to  a  glaze,  then  add 

six  spoonfuls  of  white  sauce  (No.  7)  and  half  a  gill  of 

cream ;  boil  altogether  a  minute,  sauce  over,  and  serve.   The 

entree  will  stand  best  upon  a  pyramid  of  mashed  potatoes, 

but  a  pyramid  of  forcemeat  blanched  in  stock  may  be  used. 

No.  794.  Filets  de  Potdardes  a  la  Talma. 
Fillet  two  poulardes  as  described  in  the  last,  then  take 


334  SXTREES. 

off  the  filet  mignon,  or  smaU  fillet,  fix>in  the  under  part  of 
each,  lard  the  large  fillet  neatly  as  you  would  a  sweetbread^ 
and  braise  them  as  described  for  the  estomac  de  dinde 
(No.  786),  then  have  twelve  French  beans  boiled  nice  and 
green,  cut  pieces  from  them  in  half  circles,  beat  the  small 
fillets  gently,  make  incisions  in  them,  in  which  stick  the 
pieces  of  French  beans,  saute  them  in  a  saute-pan,  keeping 
them  quite  white,  then  have  ready  some  spinach  dressed 
(No.  1 06)  rather  stiff,  make  a  pyramid  of  it  in  the  centre  of 
the  dish,  dress  the  fillets  almost  perpendicular  against  it, 
with  the  smaller  fillets  between,  the  points  uppermost,  and 
on  the  top  place  a  quenelle  de  volaille  (No.  122),  in  which 
you  have  stuck  a  fine  cockscomb,  pass  the  braise  in  which 
you  dressed  the  fillets  through  a  sieve,  skim  off  all  the  fat, 
and  place  it  in  a  stewpan,  with  ten  spoonfuls  of  brown 
sauce,  and  reduce  it  till  it  adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon, 
add  a  little  sugar,  sauce  over,  glaze  your  fillets  and  serve. 

No.  795.  Filets  de  Potdarde  a  la  Bttase. 

Prepare  a  little  rice  as  for  a  casserole  de  riz  (No.  626), 
with  which  form  a  small  pyramid  to  stand  in  the  centre  of 
your  dish,  egg  over  and  stand  it  in  the  oven  to  set,  then 
cut  a  piece  off  the  top,  and  empty  a  space  large  enough  to 
hold  a  quarter  of  a  pint ;  at  the  top  of  the  pyramid  there 
requires  a  space  the  size  of  half-a-crown,  after  you  have 
emptied  it  put  the  top  on  again,  and  keep  it  hot ;  then  fillet 
two  poulardes  as  above,  take  off  the  small  fillets,  which  form 
into  rings  by  bringing  the  two  ends  together,  butter  a 
saute-pan,  in  which  lay  the  fillets,  with  the  rings,  season 
with  a  little  white  pepper,  salt,  and  lemon-juice ;  place  them 
over  the  fire,  when  half  done  turn  them,  but  keep  them 
quite  white,  have  also  previously  boiled  a  Russian  tongue, 
from  the  thick  part  cut  four  pieces  the  size  and  shape  of 
the  fillets  of  fowl,  but  not  quite  so  thick,  place  the  rice  in 


ENTREES.  335 

the  centre  of  yoiir  dish,  and  dress  the  fillet  of  poulardes 
and  pieces  of  tongue,  (which  you  have  made  hot  in  a  little 
white  stock,)  alternately  round  it,  put  twenty  stewed  mush- 
rooms in  the  rice  croustade,  and  have  ready  the  following 
sauce  :  put  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (No.  7)  in  the  saute-pan, 
with  the  broth  you  warmed  the  tongue  in  and  six  spoonfuls 
of  veal  stock ;  boU  altogether  ten  minutes,  pass  it  through  a 
tammie  into  a  stewpan,  boil  again  till  it  becomes  rather 
thick,  then  add  a  Uttle  sugar  and  a  gill  of  cream,  sauce 
over  the  mushrooms  till  the  croustade  is  full,  then  over  the 
fillets,  glaze  the  tongue,  place  the  rings  on  the  top  of  the 
pyramid,  pour  the  remainder  of  the  sauce  round  and  serve ; 
the  person  that  carves  should  be  acquainted  that  the  crous- 
tade of  rice  contains*  mushrooms,  that  he  might  carve  the 
croustade  and  serve  with  the  entree. 

No.  796.  Mlet  de  Poularde  a  la  Pierre  le  Grand, 

Fillet  two  poiilardes  as  in  the  last,  and  when  about  three 
parts  cooked  lay  them  on  a  cloth,  and  with  a  thin  sharp 
knife  divide  each  fillet  into  two^  have  previously  boiled  a 
Russian  tongue  as  in  the  last,  cut  also  four  pieces  from  the 
'  thick  part,  and  pound  the  remaining  tender  part  very  fine ; 
rub  it  through  a  wire  sieve,  then  put  a  tablespoonful  of 
chopped  eschalots  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  small  piece  of  butter, 
stir  over  the  fire  a  few  minutes,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  flour, 
mix  well,  and  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  reduce  it  a 
little,  then  add  the  pounded  tongue  and  two  yolks  of  eggs, 
stir  them  in  quickly,  and  season  a  httle  more  if  required, 
stir  over  the  fire  a  short  time  longer,  till  the  eggs  begin  to 
set,  then  with  a  fork  dip  in  each  fillet,  let  them  be  well 
covered,  and  lay  them  on  a  dish  to  get  cold,  when  egg  and 
bread-crumb  them  twice  over,  and  fry  a  good  colour  in  four 
pounds  of  very  hot  lard,  warm  the  four  pieces  of  tongue  in 
a  little  stock,  make  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes  on  yoiur 


836  BNTREES. 

dish,  dress  the  fillets  in  crown  with  the  pieces  of  tongue 
interspersed ;  you  have  previously  made  a  stock  with  the 
bones  of  the  poulardes  (No.  6),  which  reduce  to  a  thin  glaze, 
add  a  teaspoonful  of  tarragon  vinegar,  and  sauce  round ; 
fry  two  bunches  of  watercresses  very  crisp,  sprinkle  a  little 
sdt  over,  dress  them  in  the  middle  and  serve  veiy  hot 

« 

No.  797.  Filets  de  Poularde  a  la  Dumas. 

Fillet  two  poulardes  and  divide  the  fillets  as  in  the  last ; 
when  three  parts  cooked  have  ready  the  following  puree : 
peel  and  cut  in  thin  slices  a  very  firesh  cucumber,  which  put 
in  a  stewpan,  with  a  spoonful  of  chopped  eschalots  and  three 
pats  of  butter,  pass  gently  over  a  slow  fire  twenty  minutes, 
keeping  them  stirred,  then  add  half  a  "tablespoonful  of  flour 
and  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (No.  7) ;  season  with  a  little 
sugar  and  salt,  rub  it  through  a  tammie,  previously  boiling 
five  minutes,  put  it  into  another  stewpan,  with  two  yolks  of 
eggs,  stir  quickly  over  the  fire  till  the  yolk  sets,  then  dip  in 
the  fillets  and  proceed  as  in  the  last,  dress  the  same  and 
serve  with  a  puree  of  cucumbers  (No.  105),  in  which  you 
have  put  three  spoonfuls  of  cream.  These  entrees  should 
be  served  immediately  or  they  become  soft. 

Poulardes  and  capons  may  also  be  served  in  escalopes  or 
blanquettes,  as  directed  for  the  turkey  (Nos.  788  and  789), 
especially  any  fillets  that  may  be  left  neither  larded  or  fried. 

No.  798.  Blanc  de  Poularde  aux  concombres. 

Roast  a  large  poularde  in  v^etables  (see  No.  417),  and 
when  cold  cut  the  breast  out  carefully,  and  afterwards  into 
thin  slices,  make  a  stock  with  the  bones  as  directed  (No.  6), 
then  peel  two  cucumbers,  which  cut  into  pieces  two  inches 
in  length,  split  each  piece  iuto  four  and  take  out  the  seeds 
if  any.  trim  them  at  the  comers  and  put  them  into  a  stew- 
pan,  with  a  spoonful  of  chopped  eschalots  and  two  pats  of 


ENTREES.  337 

butter,  place  them  over  a  slow  fire  tossing  them  occaslon- 
ally  ;  when  a  little  tender  poor  off  the  butter  and  place  in 
the  pieces  of  poularde,  then  put  the  stock  from  the  bones  in 
a  stewpcm,  not  more  than  a  pint,  and  reduce  it  to  half,  add 
a  pint  of  white  sauce  (No.  7)  and  a  little  sugar,  reduce  till 
it  adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  then  take  it  off  the  fire, 
and  stir  in  a  liaison  of  two  yolks  of  eggs  mixed  with  half  a 
giU  of  cream,  pass  it  through  a  tammie  over  the  pieces  of 
poularde  and  cucumbers,  and  stand  in  the  bain  marie  to 
get  bot,  serve  plain  in  a  deep  entree  dish. 

This  dish  is  much  thought  of  by  great  epicures,  the  eyes 
are  certainly  not  treated^  but  the  palate  is  delighted.  The 
same  description  of  entree  may  be  made  the  next  day  from 
the  legs. 

No.  799.   CuMses  de  Potdardes  a  la  Talleyrand  de  Peri^ord. 

Sone  the  legs  of  two  poulardes,  leaving  as  much  skin  as 
possible  on  them,  then  stuff  and  braise  them  as  directed  for 
poularde  a  la  Marie  Stuart  (No.  528),  only  place  shces  of 
truffles  between  the  flesh  and  the  skin,  then  poach  a  square 
piece  of  forcemeat  (No.  120)  three  inches  high,  and  smaller 
at  the  top  than  the  bottom ;  when  cold  place  it  on  a  cloth 
and  cut  it  in  the  shape  of  a  pyramid  according  to  the  size 
of  your  dish,  make  it  hot  in  some  stock,  take  it  out  care- 
fully and  fix  it  in  the  centre  of  your  dish  upon  a  piece  of 
mashed  potato^  then  take  up. the  legs,  draw  out  the  thread 
and  place  them  on  a  cloth  to  drain ;  have  four  very  small 
silver  skewers,  or  atelettes,  place  a  nice  truffle  warmed  in 
stock  on  each,  dress  a  leg  upon  each  side  of  the  pyramid 
upon  a  piece  of  mashed  potato,  perpendicular,  and  run  an 
atelette  through  each  at  the  top,  fixing  it  to  the  forcemeat, 
they  being  nearly  upright  \  then  have  ready  the  following 
sauce :  chop  four  smaU  truffles  and  put  them  in  a  stewpan, 
with  half  a  glass  of  Madeira  wine,  reduce  a  minute,  1;hen 

22 


KNTREES. 

add  the  stock  the  legs  were  braised  in  (having  previously 
passed  it  through  a  cloth  and  taken  off  the  whole  of  the  fat), 
and  twelve  spoonfuls  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1) ;  reduce  tiU  it 
adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  add  a  little  sugar, '  sauce 
over  and  serve. 

To  simplify  the  above  they  may  be  cooked  as  described, 
and  dressed  plain  on  the  dish  with  the  sauce  over. 

No.  800.   Cuisses  de  Poulardea  au  Soleil. 

Bone  the  legs  of  two  poulardes,  leaving  as  much  skin  on 
as  possible,  season  them  with  a  little  pepper  and  salt  inside, 
then  have  ready  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  forcemeat  (No.  120), 
chop  two  ounces  of  lean  cooked  ham,  mix  it  with  the  force- 
meat, stuff  the  legs  with  it,  sew  them  up  with  a  piece  of 
packthread,  then  hold  them  a  quarter  of  a  minut§  over  a 
charcoal  fire  to  make  the  skin  firm,  have  some  bacon  cut 
very  fine,  and  wth  it  lard  a  circle  very  neatly  (forming  rays), 
upon  the  top  of  each,  braise  them  as  directed  (No.  793),  have 
also  ready  a  pyramid  of  forcemeat  as  in  the  last,  when  the 
legs  are  done  prick  a  hole  in  the  centre  of  the  larded  circle, 
in  which  place  a  piece  of  truffle  to  resemble  a  clove  but  six 
times  the  size  of  one,  prepare  four  little  silver  atelettes  or 
skewers  with  a  dressed  cockscomb  upon  each,  dish  the  legs 
precisely  as  in  the  last,  and  serve  with  a  puree  of  mush- 
rooms (No.  54)  round.  This  may  also  be  simplified  by 
serving  the  legs  plain  in  the  dish  with  the  puree  under. 

No.  801.   Cuisses  de  Poulardes  a  VEcaillere, 

Bone  and  season  four  legs  as  above,  have  ready  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  forcemeat  (No.  1 20),  with  which  mix  ten 
well  blanched  oysters  cut  in  quarters,  and  the  yolk  of  an 
egg,  stuff  the  legs,  sew  them  with  packthread,  and  braise 
them  as  before ;  prepare  also  a  pyramid  of  forcemeat  as  be- 
fore,'have  four  little  atelettes  and  place  a  craw-fish  (No.  380) 


ENTREES.  339 

upon  each,  dress  the.  legs  with  the  atelettes  as  before, 
and  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  put  a  pint  of  white 
sauce  (No.  7)  in  a  stewpan,  with  six  spoonfuls  of  oyster 
Uquor ;  reduce  it  to  a  proper  thickness,  add  half  a  gill  of 
cream,  mix  well,  and  pass  it  through  a  tammie  into  another 
stewpan,  into  which  put  two  dozen  blanched  oysters,  season 
with  a  little  cayenne  pepper ;  warm  altogether,  sauce  over 
and  serve. 

No.  802.   Cuisses  de  Poidardes  farcis  aux petita  legumes. 

Bone  and  season  four  legs  as  before,  stuff  them  with  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  forcemeat  (No.  120),  ajid  braise  them 
as  4;>efore,  make  a  pyramid  of  mashed  potatoes  in  the  centre 
of  your  dish  and  dress  a  leg  on  each  side ;  you  have  pre- 
viously turned  twenty  young  carrots  and  twenty  young 
turnip^  in  the  shape  of  small  pears,  and  stewed  with  suffi- 
cient stock  to  cover  them,  in  which  you  put  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  sugar ;  when  tender  dry  them  on  a  doth,  and 
stick  them  alternately  in  the  potatoes  above  and  around  the 
legs  very  tastefully ;  then  put  a  pint  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1) 
with  the  stock  you  stewed  your  vegetables  in,  add  a  bunch 
of  parsley  and  half  a  bay-leaf,  with  six  spoonfuls  of  con- 
somme ;  reduce  till  it  adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  take 
out  the  parsley  and  bay-leaf,  add  a  pat  of  butter,  sauce 
over  and  serve. 

No.  803.   Cuisaes  de  Poulardea  en  fricassee  a  V  hotelier e. 

Bone,  stuff,  and  braise  as  before  four  legs  of  poulardes, 
make  a  pyramid  of  mashed  potatoes  in  the  centre  of  your 
dish,  draw  out  the  packthread,  drain  the  legs  on  a  cloth, ' 
dress  them  round,  place  a  fine  craw-fish  on  the  top,  and 
have  ready  the  following  sauce:  peel  fifty  small  button 
onions  and  put  them  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  pint  of  white 
sauce  and  half  a  pint  of  white  stock,  add  a  small  bunch  of 


840  ENTBJBSS. 

parsley  and  half  a  bay-leaf ;  let  simmer  till  the  onions  are 
tender,  keeping  it  skimmed,  then  take  ont  the  parsley  and 
bay-leaf,  and  with  a  colander  spoon  take  out  all  the  onions, 
which  deposit  in  another  stewpan,  reduce  the  sauce  till  it 
adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  season  with  a  little  salt, 
sugar,  and  lemon-juice,  and  finish  with  a  liaison  of  one  yolk 
of  egg  mixed  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  pass  it 
through  a  tammie  over  the  onions,  warm  altogether  without 
letting  it  boil,  sauce  over  and  serve. 

No.  804.   Cuisaes  de  Poulardes  a  la  Bayotmaise. 

Procure  four  legs  of  poulardes  and  take  out  the  thigh- 
bone, leaving  the  one  in  the  leg,  but  cut  off  above  ^he 
knuckle ;  then  put  four  spoonfuls  of  salad  oil  in  a  stewpan, 
season  the  legs  with  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  and  lay  them 
in,  place  the  stewpan  over  a  slow  fire,  cover  it,  and  let  them 
remain  till  they  get  a  yellowish  colour,  turn,  and  when  three 
paits  done  add  thirty  button  onions  cut  in  rings,  set  it  over 
a  sharp  fire  to  give  a  tinge  to  the  onions,  pour  off  as  much 
oil  as  possible,  add  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  and  half 
the  quantity  of  white  stock,  let  simmer  until  it  becomes 
rather  thick,  then  take  out  the  legs,  which  dress  flat  on 
your  dish ;  season  the  sauce  a  little  more  if  required,  add 
the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  stir  them  in  quickly,  sauce  over, 
sprinkle  bread-crumbs  upon  them,  place  a  small  piece  of 
butter  on  each  leg,  place  them  in  the  oven  a  quarter  of  an 
hour,  salamander  a  light  brown  and  serve. 

No.  805.  Entrees  of  Sprii^  CkickenSy  PuttetSy  Fowls y  etc. 

The  number  of  entrees  which  mav  be  made  of  this  kind 
of  poultry  is  immense,  but  to  abbreviate  and  avoid  repetition 
I  have  classified  the  three  sorts  together,  so  that  the  follow- 
ing entrees  may  be  made  from  either  of  the  three  sorts,  but 
for  many  entrees  the  spring  chickens  are  preferable ;  the 


ENTREES.  341 

pullets  are  genenllj  most  used,  especially  for  fillets,  for  if 
the  fillets  are  very  small  the  least  neglect  would  make 
than  very  dry  and  uneatable,  two  large  fillets  are  again 
awkward,  however  tender,  thare  being  too  much  for  one 
and  not  enough  for  two ;  but  I  have  made  this  observation 
merely  to  state  that  the  same  entrees  may  be  made  firom 
either  where  you  haj^pen  to  have  them  in  the  house. 

No.  806.  Filets  de  Folaille  a  la  Sevifitie. 

Take  two  nice  plump  pullets,  fillet  them  as  directed  (or 
the  poularde  (No.  792),  detach  the  filet  mignon,  or  small 
fillet,  fimu  each,  lay  the  fillets  on  a  board,  dip  your  cote- 
lette-bat  in  water,  beat  one  of  the  small  fillets  flat,  then 
another  and  lay  on  the  top  oi  it,  thus  making  two  large 
fillets  of  the  four  small,  then  with  a  thin  knife  detach  the 
skin  from  the  large  ones,  melt  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a 
saute-pan,  lay  in  the  fillets,  which  season  lightly  with 
white  pepper,  salt,  and  juice  of  a  lemon ;  stand  it  by  till 
ready,  then  make  some  forcemeat  with  the  legs  as  directed 
(No.  122),  from  which  make  six  fiat  long  quenelles  with 
two  tablespoons,  and  poach  them  in  a  little  stock,  place 
the  fillets  over  the  fire,  turning  them  when  half  done,  but 
keeping  them  quite  white,  (the  two  small  fillets  wiU  be 
done  before  the  others,)  be  sure  and  not  do  them  too 
much,  they  are  done  as  soon  as  they  feel  firm  to  the 
touch ;  then  make  a  small  border  of  mashed  potatoes  on 
your  dish,  dress  the  fillets  half  way  round  and  the  que- 
neUes  the  other,  making  them  stand  as  high  as  possible, 
sauce  over  with  a  thin  puree  of  cucumbers  (No.  105) ;  have 
ready  a  handful  of  green  peas  nicely  boiled,  which  sprinkle 
over  and  serve. 

No.  807.  Filets  de  Volaille  a  la  Neva, 
Fillet  and  dress  two  fowls  as  above,  likewise  make  the 


342  ENTREES. 

forcemeat  and  six  quenelles  with  the  legs,  when  the  que- 
nelles are  partly  cold  dip  them  in  a  basin  containing  two 
eggs  well  beaten,  take  them  out  with  a  fork,  and  sprinkle 
some  chopped  boiled  Russian  tongue  over,  place  them  in  an 
entree-dish,  cover  and  put  them  in  a  hot  closet  for  an  hour, 
cook  the  fillets  as  before ;  make  a  small  border  of  mashed 
potatoes  on  your  dish,  dress  the  fillets  and  quenelles  alter- 
nately to  form  a  crown,  and  have  ready  prepared  the  follow- 
ing sauce :  break  up  all  the  bones  of  the  fowls  and  put  into 
a  stewpan  with  a  glass  of  Madeira  wine,  an  onion  in  sHces, 
one  bay-leaf,  two  cloves,  a  httle  carrot  and  celery,  place  it 
over  the  fire  two  minutes,  then  cover  the  bones  with  two 
quarts  of  white  stock,  and  let  them  simmer  gently  one  hour, 
skim  well  and  pass  it  through  a  cloth  into  another  stewpan, 
add  six  spoonfuls  of  good  brown  sauce  (No.  1)  and  reduce 
it  to  a  clear  demi-glace,  then  add  ten  heads  of  white  mush- 
rooms and  ten  pieces  of  boiled  Russian  tongue  cut  the  size 
of  half-crown-pieces,  place  the  garniture  in  the  centre,  sauce 
over  and  serve ;  if  you  cannot  obtain  the  Russian  tongue 
for  any  of  the  above  purposes,  the  English  pickled  tongue 
may  be  used  instead. 

No.  808.  Filets  de  Volatile  saute  au  Supreme, 

Fillet  three  fowls  as  before,  making  nine  fillets  from  the 
three,  saute  the  same,  dress  them  in  crown  on  a  border  of 
mashed  potatoes,  sauce  over  with  a  sauce  supreme  (No. 
57)  and  serve ;  should  you  require  a  larger  entree  use  four 
fowls  instead  of  three. 

No.  809.  Filets  de  Volatile  aux  truffes. 

Fillet  three  fowls  as  before,  saute  the  same,  then  have  a  pint 
of  the  sauce  supreme  (No.  57)  in  a  stewpan,  boil  the  sauce, 
and  when  boiling  throw  in  four  preserved  trujSHies  in  slices, 
add  a  tablespoonful  of  thick  cream,  sauce  over  and  sen^e. 


ENTREES.  343 

No.  SIO.  Filets  de  Volatile  aiuv  truffes  a  la  Bechamel. 

Proceed  with  the  fillets  as  before,  put  fifteen  spoonfuls  of 
sauce  bechamel  (No.  7)  in  a  stewpan,  with  eight  of  white 
stocky  reduce  till  rather  thick,  then  add  four  truffles  in 
slices,  with  a  httle  salt  and  sugar,  when  again  boiling  add 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  good  thick  cream,  sauce  over  and  serve. 

No.  811.  Filets  de  Volaille  aux  champignons. 

Prepare  the  fillets  of  three  fowls  as  before,  saute  and 
dress  them  as  usual ;  wash  and  turn  half  a  pottle  of  mush- 
rooms, pass  the  heads  in  a  stewpan  with  a  Uttle  butter,  salt, 
lemon-juice,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  water,  boil  three  mi- 
nutes, then  in  another  stewpan  have  a  pint  of  the  sauce 
supreme  (No.  57),  add  the  mushrooms  with  their  stock, 
skim  well,  boil  altogether  ten  minutes,  add  two  tablespoon- 
fuls of  good  thick  cream  and  a  httle  sugar,  sauce  over  and 
serve. 

No.  812.  Filets  de  Volaille  aux  champignons  a  la  Bechamel, 

Proceed  as  before  with  the  fillets,  and  likewise  prepare 
half  a  pottle  of  white  mushrooms  as  in  the  last,  but  saving 
the  trimmings,  which  put  in  another  stewpan  with  half  the 
Uquor  firom  the  mushrooms  and  a  pint  of  bechamel  sauce 
(No.  7),  reduce  till  rather  thick,  then  pass  it  through  a 
tammie  into  another  stewpan,  add  a  httle  sugar  and  your 
mushrooms,  previously  drained  on  a  cloth,  boil  altogether 
two  minutes,  add  half  a  gill  of  boiling  milk,  sauce  over  and 
serve. 

No.  813.  Filets  de  Poulet  a  V Amhassadrice. 

Roast  three  fowls  in  vegetables  as  directed  in  the  Re- 
moves, cut  out  the  fillets  and  proceed  exactly  as  for  filets  de 
poulardes  a  Tambassadrice  (No.  792). 


844  KNTREE8. 

No.  814.  Filet8  de  Paulet  a  la  Strasbourgfietine. 

Roast  two  lai^  fowls  in  vegetables,  axid  when  cold  take 
out  the  fillets,  and  with  a  thin  knife  divide  each  fillet  in 
halves,  to  form  two  out  of  one,  then  pound  two  ounces  of 
foie  gras  de  Strasbourg  (a  small  tureen  of  which  can  be 
purchased  at  any  respectable  Italian  warehouse  in  London) 
in  a  mortar,  and  rub  it  through  a  hair  sieve,  put  a  spoonful 
of  chopped  onions  in  a  stewpan  with  half  a  pat  of  butter, 
stir  them  a  few  minutes  over  the  fire,  then  add  half  a  pint 
of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  reduoe  till  rather  thick,  add  the  foie 
gras,  and  when  ready  to  boil  take  it  ofi*  the  fire  and  stir  in 
^e  yolks  of  two  eggs  very  quickly,  leave  it  to  get  cold, 
then  spread  it  over  the  fillets  the  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thick- 
ness, have  three  ^gs  in  a  basin  well-beaten,  take  each  fillet 
on  a  fork,  dip  them  into  the  e^s,  throw  them  in  a  dish  of 
bread-crumbs,  take  them  out,  pat  them  gently  with  a  knife 
and  repeat  the  operation,  have  four  pounds  of  hot  lard  in  a 
stewpan,  in  which  fry  them  a  Ught  brown  colour,  dress  in 
crown  on  a  small  border  of  mashed  potatoes,  and  serve  with 
Med  water-cresses  in  the  centre  quite  dry,  with  a  little 
gravy  separate. 

No.  815.  Filets  de  Folaille  a  la  BucAesse. 

Fillet  three  fowls,  with  the  filets  mignons  making  nine 
fillets,  lard  four  of  the  fillets  neatly  and  braise  them  as  you 
would  a  sweetbread^  then  saute  the  remainder  of  the  fillets 
as  usual ;  dress  them  alternately  on  a  border  of  mashed  po- 
tatoes, two  larded,  and  the  other  plain,  and  have  ready  the 
following  sauce :  put  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (No.  7)  in  a  stew- 
pan with  six  spoonfuls  of  white  stock,  a  small  bunch  of 
parsley,  and  the  trimmings  of  some  fresh  mushrooms,  boil 
till  it  becomes  thick,  keeping  it  stirred,  add  half  a  pint  of 
cream  and  pass  it  through  a  tammie  into  another  stewpan 


BNTBEBS.  345 

in  which  you  haye  {daoed  a  dozen  of  dressed  cockscombs 
(No.  128)>  boil  it  up,  then  sauce  over  the  plain  fillets,  put 
the  oodEscombs  in  liie  centre,  glaze  the  larded  fiUeta  li^tly 
and  serve.     If  too  thick,  add  a  little  stock  to  the  sauce. 

No.  816.  Epifframme  de  Filets  de  VblaiUe  a  la  Josephine. 

Prepare  and  cook  the  fillets  of  three  fowls  as  above, 
cut  also  four  pieces  fix>m  a  cooked  tongue  the  size  and  shape 
oi  your  fillets,  warm  than  in  stock,  make  a  small  border  of 
mashed  potatoes  on  your  dish,  dress  the  larded  fillets  first, 
then  the  plain,  then  the  tongue  to  form  a  crown,  sauce  with  a 
thin  puree  of  green  peas  (No.  86)  in  the  centre,  glaze  the 
tongue  and  krded  fiUets,  and  serve. 

No.  817.  Filets  de  Fblaille  aux  concombres. 

Fillet  three  fowls  as  usual,  {dace  them  in  a  saute-pan 
with  butter,  season  and  put  by  until  ready ;  have  two  fine 
encumbers  cut  in  pieces  three  inches  in  length,  split  each 
piece  in  halves,  take  out  the  seeds  and  peel  so  as  not  to 
leave  a  mark  of  green  upon  it,  trim  each  piece  as  near  the 
size  and  shape  of  the  fiUets  as  possible,  blanch  them  three 
minutes  in  boiling  water  with  salt,  drain  them  on  a  sieve, 
put  them  in  a  saute-pan  with  a  Uttle  sugar  and  some  good 
white  stock,  set  them  on  the  fire  till  the  cucumber  is  tender 
and  the  stock  has  reduced  to  demi-glace,  then  saute  your 
fillets,  and  dress  upon  a  small  border  of  mashed  potatoes 
alternately  with  a  piece  of  the  cucumber,  add  the  remainder 
of  the  cucumber  and  the  demi-glace  to  a  demi-puree  of  cu- 
cumbers (No.  105)  (but  keep  it  quite  white),  with  which 
sauce  over  and  serve.  The  cucumbers  must  be  the  best  for 
this  purpose  and  &esh,  or  you  will  not  be  able  to  succeed. 

No.  818.  Fricassee  de  Potdet  a  la  Chevaliere* 
Fillet  two  fowls  but  leave  the  pinions  of  the  wings  at- 


346  ENTREES. 

tached  to  them,  lard  and  braise  as  directed  for  filets  de 
poulardes  a  la  Marie  Stuart  (No.  798),  cat  ofi*  the  legs 
nicely,  and  take  out  the  thigh-bone,  leaving  the  leg-bone, 
but  cutting  it  off  above  the  knuckle ;  cut  each  back  also 
into  two  pieces  and  trim  neatly,  put  the  legs  and  pieces  of 
back  into  a  stewpan,  just  cover  them  with  one  pint  of 
water  and  two  of  stock,  add  a  Uttle  pepper,  salt,  and  a 
small  bunch  of  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay-leaf,  with  an  onion 
in  shces, .  and  two  cloves,  set  them  over  the  fire,  let  simmer 
twenty  minutes,  and  skim  well ;  then  take  out  the  pieces 
and  put  them  on  a  cloth  to  dry,  trim  neatly  and  place  them 
into  another  stewpan  with  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  pass 
them  five  minutes  over  the  five,  then  add  one  tablespoon- 
ful  of  flour,  mix  well ;  you  have  previously  passed  the  stock 
you  boiled  the  fowl  in  through  a  cloth,  pour  it  over 
the  fricassee,  which  keep  stirred  till  boiling,  then  stand  it 
at  the  comer  to  simmer,  skim  well,  it  requires  to  be  rather 
thin,  let  simmer  nearly  an  hour,  then  take  out  the  pieces 
very  carefully  and  place  them  in  another  steii'pan,  put  a 
spoonfiil  of  chopped  mushrooms  in  the  sauce,  reduce  till  it 
adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  pass  it  through  a  tammie 
over  the  pieces  of  fowl,  place  it  again  on  the  fire,  add 
twelve  cockscombs,  twelve  mushrooms,  and  twelve  slices  of 
truffles,  let  simmer  a  minute,  finish  with  a  liaison  of  one 
yolk  of  egg  mixed  with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  milk,  take  it 
off  the  fire  immediately,  put  a  little  mashed  potatoes  in  the 
bottom  of  yom*  dish,  take  out  the  four  pieces  of  back,  place 
two  in  the  centre  of  the  dish  and  two  others  over  to  form  a 
square,  stand  the  four  legs  upright  around,  drain  the  four 
fillets  on  a  cloth,  (let  them  be  a  nice  colour,)  and  dress 
them  over ;  place  the  garniture  from  the  sauce  on  the  top  to 
form  a  pyramid,  sauce  over  the  legs  and  roimd,  glaze  the 
fillets  hghtly  and  serve. 


1 

•I 


ENTREES.  347 

No.  819.  Fricassee  de  Poulet  a  VAncienne. 

Cut  two  fowls  into  eight  pieces  each^  that  is,  two  legs, 
two  wings,  with  a  piece  of  the  fillet,  two  pieces  of  back,  and 
two  pieces  of  breast,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  two 
quarts  of  warm  water,  let  them  remain  ten  minutes  to  dis- 
gorge, pour  off  all  the  water,  then  just  cover  them  with  cold 
water,  add  a  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  one  of 
salt,  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay-leaf,  with  an  onion  in  slices, 
and  two  cloves,  simmer  gently  twenty  minutes,  skim  well, 
take  out  the  pieces,  lay  them  on  a  cloth,  and  trim  them 
into  neat  pieces,  then  place  them  in  a  stewpan  with  two 
ounces  of  butter,  pass  over  the  fire  five  minutes  keeping 
them  moved;  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  mix  well, 
pass  the  stock  the  pieces  were  boiled  in  through  a  cloth 
over,  stir  all  together,  then  have  peeled  forty  button  onions, 
throw  them  in   and  boil  altogether  nearly  an  hour  very 
gently  (keeping  it  skimmed),  till  the  sauce  is  sufficiently 
thick,  then  finish  with  a  Uaison  of  two  yolks  of  eggs  mixed 
with  half  a  gill  of  milk,  stir  it  in  quick  and  do  not  let  it 
boil  afterwards,  put  a  httle  mashed  potatoes  on  the  bottom 
of  the  dish,  dress  the  pieces  in  pyramid,  commencing  with 
the  backs,  and  finishing  with  the  breasts  upon  the  top,  sauce 
all  over  and  serve. 

No.  820.  Petits  Potdets  Printaniers  saute  aux  truffes. 

Procure  two  spring  chickens,  cut  each  one  in  halves, 
then  again  divide  the  wings  from  the  legs,  thus  making 
eight  pieces  of  the  two ;  cut  off  the  legs  just  above  the 
knuckle,  break  the  back-bones  with  a  knife,  put  half  a  pound 
of  butter  in  a  flat  stewpan,  let  it  melt,  lay  in  the  pieces  of 
chicken,  let  them  remain  over  a  slow  fire  until  they  become 
rather  brown,  then  turn  them,  let  them  remain  until  the 
other  side  is  browned,  then  pour  off  as  much  of  the  butter 


S48  ENTREES. 

as  possible,  and  add  a  pint  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1)  with  ten 
spoonfuls  of  consomme,  place  it  again  over  the  fire,  and 
when  boiling  throw  in  four  laj^e  truffles  cut  in  thin  slices  and 
a  httle  sugar,  keep  moving  ih^a  round  gently  till  the  sauce 
adheres  to  the  pieces ;  then  take  them  out,  dress  as  devated 
as  possible,  sauce  over  and  serve*  Poulet  printanier  saate 
aux  champgnons,  and  ditto  aux  olives,  are  done  predselj 
the  same,  only  substituting  twenty  stoned  ohves,  or  thirty 
heads  of  mushrooms,  for  the  truffles. 

No.  821.  Poulet  Printanier  braise  a  la  Finandere. 

Roast  a  spring  chicken  very  white  in  vegetables,  as  di- 
rected in  the  Removes,  when  done  draw  out  the  string, 
place  it  in  the  centre  of  an  entrfe-dish,  and  serve  with  a 
sauce  financiere  (No.  50)  over,  they  may  also  be  served  with 
a  sauce  a  la  bechamd  (No.  7)  or  any  of  the  sauces  di- 
rected for  the  flancs. 

No.  822.  PetitsPouletaPrintaniera  sauce  remotdade(fiiaiide). 

Take  out  the  back-bone  of  a  good-sized  chicken,  cut  the 
legs  off  at  the  knuckles,  break  the  leg-bone,  then  make  an 
incision  in  the  thigh  and  draw  the  legs  through  to  the  in- 
side ;  break  the  joints  of  the  wings,  and  beat  the  chicken 
rather  flat,  then  put  a  piece  of  butter  in  a  sauto-pan,  when 
melted  lay  in  your  chicken,  pass  it  over  a  slow  fire  ten  mi- 
nutes, turn  it  and  place  it  again  over  till  it  becomes  slightly 
coloured,  then  lay  it  on  a  dish,  season  well  with  pepper 
and  salt ;  egg  all  over,  throw  it  into  bread-crumbs,  cover 
all  over,  place  it  on  a  gridiron  over  a  slow  fire  and  broil  it 
a  nice  yellow  colour ;  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  put 
six  tablespoonfuls  of  white  sauce  (No.  7)  in  a  stewpan  with 
four  of  white  stock,  place  it  over  the  fire,  and  when  bdStiig 
add  six  spoonfuls  of  well-seasoned  sauce  remoulade  (No. 
38),  stir  it  quickly  over  the  fire  until  hot,  but  do  notPJM 


ENTREES.  840 

it  hoily  pour  it  in  your  dish,  garnish  the  edge  with  fiUets  of 
gherkins,  lay  the  chicken  over,  whidi  glaze  lightly  and 
serve. 

No.  828.  Poulet  Printanier  grilU  aux  champigrum»  confiL 

Prepare  and  broil  a  chicken  exactly  as  in  the  last,  put 
tlie  juice  from  a  small  bottle  of  pickled  mushrooms,  not  too 
salt,  in  a  stewpan  with  a  spoonful  of  chopped  esdialots ;  re- 
duce to  half,  then  add  twelve  spoonfuls  of  brown  sauce 
(No.  1),  season  with  a  httle  cayenne  pepper  and  sugar,  boil 
till  rather  thick,  add  the  mushrooms  from  the  bottle,  when 
hot  pour  the  sauce  in  the  dish,  dress  the  fowl  over,  which 
glaze  and  serve.  Spring  chickens  broiled  may  also  be 
served  with  sauce  piquante  (No.  27),  poivrade  (No.  83), 
tomate  (No.  37),  fresh  mushrooms  (No.  52),  or  a  la  mare- 
chal  (No.  532). 

After  having  used  the  fillets  of  fowb  or  chickens,  the  legs 
may  be  dressed  in  any  of  the  methods  given  for  legs  of 
poolardes  or  capooB,  of  course  their  not  being  so  large, 
they  will  not  require  so  long  to  cook,  but  there  being  six 
instead  of  four  legs,  they  will  require  the  same  quantity  of 
sauoe ;  they  may  also  be  served  in  any  of  the  following 
wi^s. 

No.  824.  Cuiases  de  Volatile  imffea  a  la  Ferigord. 

Cut  ofT  the  six  legs  with  as  much  of  the  skin  as  possible 
attached,  giving  them  a  round  shape,  take  out  the  thigh- 
bone, and  cut  off  the  leg  above  the  knuckle,  then  stuff  the 
round  part  with  a  preparation  of  truffles,  as  for  poularde  a 
la  Marie  Stuart  (No.  528),  showing  the  truffles  under  the 
skin,  sew  them  up,  and  braise  as  directed  for  that  article ; 
when  done  put  a  thin  oval  border  of  mashed  potatoes  on 
your  dish,  and  dress  the  legs  upon  it,  three  on  each  side ; 
place  a  small  paper  frill  upon  each  bone,  and  serve  vdth  a 


350  ENTREES. 

puree  oi  trutfles  (No.  53)  in  the  centre  and  round;  the 
puree  must  be  rather  thin. 

No.  825.  Cuiases  de  VblaUle  a  la  Dino. 

Prepare,  stuff,  and  braise  six  legs  as  in  the  last,  also  have 
a  fine  larded  sweetbread  (No.  671)  which  braise  with  the 
legs,  glaze  and  salamander  of  a  nice  gold  colour,  then  have 
poached  an  oval  piece  of  forcemeat  (No.  120),  an  inch  and 
a  half  high,  three  inches  long,  and  two  inches  broad,  place 
the  sweetbread  on  the  top,  and  dress  the  legs  round,  three 
upon  each  side,  place  a  fine  cockscomb  between  each  leg  to 
hide  the  forcemeat,  fix  them  there  by  running  little  p^ 
made  of  stiff  paste  through  them,  sauce  over  the  legs  with 
a  sauce  a  Fltahenne  (No.  31),  glaze  the  sweetbread,  and 
serve  very  hot. 

No.  826.  Cuiasea  de  VblaiUe  braise  atuv  concombrea. 

•  Prepare  and  bone  six  legs  as  above,  season  them  with  a 
little  pepper,  salt,  and  very  finely-chopped  eschalots,  then 
have  ready  half  a  pound  of  forcemeat  of  fowl,  with  which  stuff 
them,  sew  them  round  and  braise  as  before ;  when  done 
dress  them  on  your  dish  as  described  for  cuisses  de  volaille 
truffes  a  la  Perigord  (No.  824),  sauce  in  the  middle  and 
round  with  a  garniture  and  sauce  aux  concombres  (No.  103), 
and  serve. 

No.  827.  Cuiaaea  de  Volaille  braiae  auwpoia. 

Prepare,  bone,  stuff,  and  braise  as  the  last,  dress  the 
same,  and  serve  with  stewed  peas  round  and  in  the  centre. 
For  stewed  peas  (see  No.  1077.) 

The  legs  braised  as  above  may  also  be  served  with  a 
sauce  Palestine  (No.  87)  or  a  la  jardiniere  (No.  100.) 


£NTR££S.  351 

No.  828.  Cuisses  de  VblaUle  en  fricassee  a  VAncienne. 

See  (No.  819)  and  proceed  exactly  the  same;  dress  them 
on  the  dish,  and  serve  as  above. 

No.  829.   Cuisses  de  Volaille  a  la  Marengo. 

Cut  off  the  legs  neatly  as  before,  taking  out  the  thigh- 
bone, and  proceed  as  directed  for  petits  poussins  a  la  Ma- 
rengo (see  Flancs,  No.  596),  dress  them  pyramidically, 
sauce  over,  and  serve.  The  whole  of  a  fowl  may  be  dressed 
in  this  manner  by  cutting  it  up  as  directed  for  poulet  prin- 
tanier  (No.  820),  and  proceeding  as  described  where  above 
directed. 

No.  830.  Poulet  a  la  Proven^ale. 

Cut  up  a  large  fowl  or  a  small  poularde  into  eight  pieces, 
that  is,  the  two  legs,  the  two  wings,  with  a  piece  of  the  fillet 
attached,  two  pieces  of  breast  and  two  pieces  of  back,  put 
them  into  a  saute-pan  with  eight  spoonfuls  of  oil  and  six 
onions,  peeled  and  cut  in  thin  slices,  season  with  a  Uttle 
pepper  and  salt,  place  it  over  a  slow  fire,  move  and  tiun 
them  occasionally ;  when  done,  lay  them  on  a  doth,  to  drain 
off  all  the  oil,  put  a  little  mashed  potatoes  on  the  bottom  of 
your  dish,  dress  the  inferior  pieces  at  the  bottom,  and  the 
better  one  at  the  top,  dressing  them  as  tastefully  as  pos- 
sible, put  the  stewpan  again  on  the  fire,  pour  off  as  much 
oil  as  possible,  and  mix  a  quarter  of  a  tablespoonful  of  flour 
with  the  onions,  then  twelve  spoonfuls  of  white  sauce 
(No.  7),  and  eight  of  white  stock,  add  a  Uttle  scraped  garhc 
the  size  of  a  pea,  and  a  Uttle  more  sugar,  take  it  off  the 
fire,  stir  in  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  sauce  over,  egg  and 
bread-crumb  aU  over,  set  it  in  a  very  hot  oven  ten  minutes, 
salamander,  and  serve. 


w)52  ENTREES. 

No.  831.  Tkrban  de  Quenelles  de  Folaille  a  la  £u9se. 

Take  tbe  flesh  of  a  nice  delicate  large  fowl,  and  with  it 
make  some  forcemeat  as  directed  (No.  122) ;  when  done 
make  eight  lai^e  quenelles  with  two  silver  tablespoons,  by 
filling  one  of  them  with  forcemeat,  dip  your  knife  in  hot 
water,  and  smooth  it  over  in  a  slight  dome,  then  dip  the 
other  spoon  in  hot  water,  and  scoop  the  quenelle  from  the 
first  spoon  with  it,  taking  it  into  the  hot  spoon,  from  which 
it  will  easily  sHp,  place  th«n  in  a  buttered  saute-pan,  and 
cover  with  good  second  broth,  place  them  over  a  quick  fire, 
boil  twenty  minutes,  and  lay  them  out  on  a  cloth ;  cut  also 
eight  pieces  from  a  boiled  Russian  tongue,  the  size  (rf  the 
quenelles  and  the  thickness  of  two  five-shilling  pieces  which 
warm  in  a  Uttle  consomme ;  make  a  border  of  mashed  po- 
tatoes, cut  a  httle  piece  off  the  bottom  of  each  quenelle,  and 
dress  them  alternately  vnik  a  piece  of  the  tongue  in  crown ; 
break  the  bones  of  the  fowl  up  very  small,  and  put  them  in 
a  stewpan  with  a  glass  of  sherry,  one  minced  onion,  one 
bay-leaf,  a  little  thyme.  Mid  one  clove ;  boil  it  two  minutes, 
then  add  a  quart  of  white  stock,  reduce  it  to  half,  skim  off 
all  the  fat,  and  pass  it  through  a  tammie  into  another  stew- 
pan,  add  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  and  reduce  it  till  it 
adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon ;  finish  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  good  thick  cream,  and  a  Uttle  sugar,  sauce  over 
the  quenelles,  gk^e  the  tongue,  and  serve  with  the  r^nainder 
c^  the  sauce  round  and  in  the  centre. 

No.  832.   Quenelles  de  Folaille  a  VEcarlate. 

Proceed  precisely  as  above,  using  plain  ox-tongue  instead 
of  the  Russian. 

No.  833.   Quenelles  de  VolaiUe  aux  concombres. 
Make  eight  quenelles  as  before,  then  procure  a  fine  hot- 


ENTREES.  353 

house  cucumber^  from  which  cut  and  trim  eight  pieces  the 
size  of  your  quenelles^  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  a  pat  of 
butter  and  a  little  sugar^  pass  them  over  a  slow  fire  ten 
minutes,  then  add  six  spoonfuls  of  white  broth,  and  let 
them  simmer  very  gently  till  quite  done,  but  not  too  much 
so,  or  it  would  be  impossible  to  dress  them ;  then  poach 
the  quenelles  and  lay  them  on  a  cloth  to  drain  with  the 
cucumber,  have  ready  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes  on  yom 
dish,  cut  a  little  piece  off  the  bottom  of  each  quenelle,  and 
dress  them  alternately  with  the  cucumber  in  crown ;  have 
ready  the  following  sauce :  add  half  a  pint  of  white  sauce 
(No.  7)  to  the  stock  the  cucumber  was  dressed  in,  reduce  it 
till  it  adheres  to  the  spoon,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  cream, 
sauce  over,  and  serve. 

No.  834.  Quenelles  de  Volaille  en  demi  deuiL 

Make  twelve  quenelles  as  before,  poach  them  and  lay 
them  on  a  cloth,  have  ready  chopped  two  or  three  very 
black  truffles,  dip  six  of  the  quenelles  in  some  egg  well-* 
beaten,  roll  them  in  the  chopped  truffles,  place  them  in  a 
dish,  cover  them  up  and  stand  them  in  the  hot  closet  an 
hour ;  place  the  other  six  in  some  fresh  stock  in  a  stewpan 
and  keep  hot  in  the  bain-marie,  have  ready  a  border  of 
mashed  potatoes  on  your  dish,  cut  a  piece  off  the  bottom  of 
each  of  the  quenelles,  dress  the  six  black  ones  on  one  side 
and  the  white  ones  on  the  other  to  form  a  crown,  put  ten 
spoonfuls  of  milk  in  a  stewpan,  boil  it,  and  add  a  pint  of 
white  sauce  (No  7) ;  reduce  till  it  adheres  to  the  back  of  the 
spoon,  then  add  two  pats  of  butter  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon, 
sauce  over  the  white  quenelles ;  you  vrill  probably  have  a 
few  chopped  truffles  left,  which  sprinkle  over,  and  serve  the 
remainder  of  the  sauce  in  the  centre. 


23 


854  ENTREBS. 

No.  835.  Quenelles  de  VolmUe  a  la  York  Minster. 

Make  and  poach  twelve  quenelles  as  before,  dip  them  in 
egg,  and  then  roll  them  in  some  finely  chopped  cooked  lean 
York  ham,  place  them  on  a  dish,  cover  and  put  them  in  the 
hot  closet  to  diy ;  make  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes  on 
your  dish,  and  dress  one  red  and  one  white  quenelle  alter- 
nately, put  twelve  good  spoonfuls  of  white  sauce  (No.  7)  in  a 
stewpan,  with  ten  of  boiled  milk  and  a  little  sugar,  let 
reduce  till  it  adheres  to  the  spoon,  add  about  forty  strips 
of  the  cooked  ham  cut  the  size  of  julienne-roots,  sauce  over 
and  serve ;  finish  the  sauce  with  a  little  cream. 

No.  836.   Quenelles  de  VblaiUe  a  la  Pair  de  France, 

Make  eight  quenelles  as  before,  and  when  laying  in  the 
saute-pan  make  a  long  incision  in  each,  in  which  put  a 
very  white  middle-sized  dressed  cockscomb,  cover  them 
with  white  stock,  and  poach  very  gently  for  a  quarter  of  an 
hour;  have  also  poached  a  solid  piece  of  forcemeat  foiu* 
inches  in  diameter  and  two  and  a  half  in  height,  with  a  long 
round  cutter  cut  four  holes  near  the  centre,  large  enough  to 
stand  in  four  plovers'  eggs,  which  peel  and  warm  in  a  httle 
stock,  and  between  the  four  on  the  top  place  a  fifth ;  cut  a 
small  piece  off  the  bottom  of  each  quenelle,  and  stand 
them  upright  upon  a  httle  mashed  potatoes  against  the 
centre  piece,  the  cockscombs  facing  outwards,  sauce  over 
with  a  very  white  thin  puree  of  artichokes  (No.  90),  and 
serve  with  a  little  chopped  chervil  sprinkled  over  them. 

No.  837.   Quenelles  de  VblaiUe  a  la  Silene, 

Pass  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  onions  in  butter  in  a 
stewpan  over  a  sharp  fire,  and  when  they  begin  to  colour 
add  a  teaspoonfol  of  fiour,  mix  well  in,  then  add  half  a 
pint  of  brown  sauce,  a  piece  of  glaze  the  size  of  a  walnut, 


ENTREES.  355  . 

two  teaspoonfuls  of  chopped  mushrooms,  and  one  of  chopped 
parsley,  reduce  five  minutes,  take  it  off  the  fire  and  stir 
in  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  very  quickly ;  you  have  previously 
poached  ten  quenelles  as  before,  and  when  cold  dip  them 
into  the  above  sauce,  covering  them  all  over,  (previously 
cutting  a  small  piece  off  the  bottom,)  then  dip  them  into 
some  egg  well-beaten,  and  then  into  bread-crumbs,  pat 
them  a  little  with  your  knife  and  repeat  the  operation ;  fry 
them  a  nice  colour  in  a  stewpan  containing  four  pounds  of 
very  hot  lard,  dress  them  in  crown  upon  a  border  of  mashed 
potatoes,  and  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  put  a  pint  of 
consomme  fiiee  from  salt  in  a  stewpan,  with  some  bones  of 
a  raw  or  cooked  fowl  and  a  bunch  of  parsley,  boil  it  till 
reduced  to  half,  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  twelve  grapes,  pass 
it  through  a  tammie  into  another  stewpan,  reduce  to  a  thin 
glaze,  add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  tarragon  vinegar  and  a 
little  sugar,  pour  it  in  the  centre  of  your  dish  and  serve 
very  hot. 

No.  838.  Baudins  de  Volatile  a  la  Richelieu. 

Make  sufficient  of  the  above  forcemeat,  for  twelve  que- 
nelles, lay  a  Uttle  flour  on  your  dresser,  upon  which  place 
twelve  pieces  of  the  forcemeat,  each  of  the  size  of  a  quenelle, 
roll  each  a  little  with  the  hand,  then  with  a  knife  form  them 
into  pieces  two  inches  long  and  nearly  an  inch  wide,  place 
them  in  a  buttered  saute-pan  as  you  do  them,  and  poacli 
exactly  as  for  the  quenelles,  dress  them  in  crown  on  a  border 
of  mashed  potatoes,  sauce  over  with  a  sauce  Ferigueux 
(No.  65)  and  serve. 

No.  839.  Boudins  de  VolaiUe  a  la  SvUy. 

Make  the  same  quantity  of  forcemeat  as  for  the  last,  lay 
it  on  your  dresser  and  divide  it  into  five  pieces,  flatten  them 
with  your  knife,  having  sufficient  flour  on  the  board  to  pre- 


,  350  ENTREES. 

vent  them  sticking ;  have  a  salpicon  as  for  croquettes  (see 
next),  place  a  httle  of  it  upon  the  centre  of  each  piece  of 
forcemeat,  roll  them  up,  place  them  in  a  buttered  saute-pan, 
cover  with  stock  and  poach  them  twenty  minutes,  drain 
on  a  cloth,  cut  off  the  ends,  and  lay  them  on  your  dish, 
thi*ee  at  the  bottom  and  two  across,  sauce  the  same  as  the 
last  and  serve. 

No.  840.   Croquettes  de  VblaiUe  aux  truffes. 

Cut  up  a  small  braised  fowl  (or  the  remains  of  two  or 
three  left  from  a  previous  dinner)  into  very  small  dice  (or 
mince),  cut  also  two  large  truffles  of  the  same  size,  put  half 
a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  eschalots  into  a  stewpan  with 
half  an  ounce  of  butter,  pass  them  three  minutes  over  the 
fire,  add  a  quarter  of  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  mix  well, 
then  put  in  the  fowl  and  truffles  and  half  a  pint  of  white 
sauce  (No.  7)— or  more  if  not  sufficiently  moist,  boil  all 
together  ten  minutes,  season  with  a  little  white  pepper, 
salt,  and  sugar,  then  stir  in  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  very 
quickly,  stir  another  minute  over  the  fire,  turn  it  out  on  a 
dish  to  cool ;  when  cold  take  twelve  pieces,  each  the  size  of 
a  very  large  walnut,  roll  them  about  an  inch  and  a  half  in 
length,  egg  and  bread-crumb  tvdce  over  and  fry  a  good 
colour  in  hot  lard,  dress  them  in  crown  on  a  border  of 
mashed  potatoes,  and  serve  vnth  a  sauce  aux  truffes  (No.  61) 
in  the  centre.  The  remainder  of  a  previous  dinner  of  any 
kind  of  poultry  may  be  used  for  croquettes. 

No.  841.   Croqtiettes  de  Volatile  au  Jambon 

Are  made  in  the  same  manner  as  in  the  last,  only  using 
cooked  lean  ham  instead  of  truffles,  and  serving  a  little 
blauquette  de  volaille  au  jambon  (see  blanquette  de  dinde. 
No.  88)  in  the  centre ;  croquettes  de  volaille  a  Tecarlate  are 
made  the  same,  merely  substituting  some  cooked  tongue 


r 


ENTREES.  357 

and  adding  tongue  to  the  blanquette ;  when  made  larger 
they  are  called  boudins,  but  the  croquettes  are  preferable, 
being  more  crisp. 

No.  842.  Bissolettes  de  VolaUle  a  la  Pompadour. 

Make  half  a  pound  of  forcemeat  (No.  122),  then  have 
ready  two  buttered  saute-pans,  place  half  of  the  forcemeat 
in  the  centre  of  each,  then  spread  it  over  the  bottom  to  the 
thickness  of  half-a-crown  piece  with  a  spoon,  occasionaDy 
dipping  the  spoon  in  white  of  egg ;  then  cover  them  over 
with  stock  and  place  them  on  a  moderate  fire,  let  them 
simmer  for  five  minutes,  take  off  as  much  of  the  stock 
as  possible,  and  leave  them  in  the  saute-pans  to  get  half 
cold,  take  them  out  with  a  fish-slice,  place  one  of  them 
on  a  dish,  then  have  prepared  a  salpicon  as  for  the  cro- 
quettes aux  truffes  (No.  840),  cover  the  sheet  of  forcemeat 
with  it  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  then  cover  the  other 
sheet  over  it,  press  them  Ughtly  together ;  when  cold  cut  it 
out  in  diamond  shapes  (with  a  knife)  about  two  inches  long 
and  one  wide ;  then  have  ready  the  following  sauce  :  put  a 
teaspoonful  of  chopped  eschalots  in  a  stevtrpan  with  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pat  of  butter,  pass  them  over  the  fire  two  minutes, 
add  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (No.  7)  and  half  a  gill  of  milk, 
boil  altogether  five  minutes,  keeping  it  stirred ;  then  take  it 
off  the  fire  and  stir  in  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  very  quickly, 
stir  it  over  the  fire  another  half  a  minute,  then  take  each 
piece  upon  a  fork  and  dip  it  into  the  sauce,  cover  it  all  over 
and  place  it  upon  a  plate  ;  proceed  in  like  manner  till  they 
are  all  done,  put  them  by  till  quite  cold,  have  ready  some 
good  fiitter-batter  (No.  1285)  made  with  milk,  dip  each  ris- 
solette  in  with  a  fork  and  drop  it  into  a  stewpan  of  rather 
hot  lard,  fiy  five  minutes,  dress  them  on  a  napkin,  and 
serve  with  plenty  of  fried  parsley  the  moment  they  are 
done. 


358  ENTREES. 

They  may  also  be  served  with  sauce  (omitting  the  napkin) 
as  follows :  put  eight  spoonfuls  of  white  sauce  into  a  stew- 
pan^  with  six  of  cream^  place  it  over  the  fire  a  few  minutes, 
add  a  Uttle  sugar  and  salt,  sauce  round  and  serve. 

No.  843.  Filets  de  Canetona  atix  petita  pois. 

Boast  four  ducklings  in  vegetables  as  directed  in  the  Re- 
moves, take  away  the  vegetables  just  before  they  are  done,  to 
give  the  breasts  a  slight  colour;  then  cut  out  the  fillets 
very  neatly,  dress  them  on  a  small  border  of  mashed  po- 
tatoes with  a  thin  crouton  of  fried  bread  between  each,  put 
a  pint  and  a  haK  of  young  green  peas  (previously  boiled)  in 
a  stewpan,  with  the  gravy  that  has  run  from  the  ducklings, 
two  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  a  teaspoonfiil  of  sugar,  and  a 
Uttle  salt,  keep  tossing  them  over  the  fire  till  quite  hot,  then 
add  a  liaison  of  one  yolk  of  egg  mixed  with  two  table- 
spoonfids  of  cream,  stir  it  in  quickly,  place  them  in  the 
centre  of  the  dish  in  pyramid  and  serve. 

No.  844.  FUeta  de  Canetona  a  la  chicoree. 

Proceed  with  the  ducklings  precisely  as  above,  fillet  and 
dress  the  same,  serve  with  some  endive  prepared  as  directed 
(No.  119)  in  the  centre,  but  not  too  much  nor  too  thick. 

No.  845.  Mleta  de  Canetona  a  la  macedoi?t€  de  legumes. 

Roast  and  fillet  four  ducklings  as  before,  then  prepare  a 
stand  of  vegetables  as  directed  for  Chartreuse  (No.  604),  but 
not  more  than  two  inches  in  height,  fill  it  with  stewed  cab- 
bage well  pressed  and  almost  dry,  and  turn  it  out  on  your 
dish;  when  perfectly  hot  and  the  vegetables  sufficiently 
cooked,  dress  the  fillets  in  crown  on  the  top,  have  ready  a 
Macedoine  de  legume  (No.  98),  which  dress  in  pyramid  in 
the  centre  and  serve. 


ENTREES.  359 

No.  846.  Filets  de  Canetons  aujtta  d^ orange. 

Roast  and  fillet  four  ducklings  as  before,  dress  them  in 
crown  on  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes,  and  have  ready  the 
following  sance :  put  twenty  spoonfuls  of  brown  sauce  in  a 
stevrpan  with  ten  of  white  stock,  place  it  over  the  fire  to 
boil,  with  some  bones  from  the  breast  of  the  ducklings,  boil 
to  a  demi-glace,  keeping  it  skimmed,  take  out  the  bones  and 
pass  the  sauce  through  a  tammie,  then  add  the  rind  of  an 
orange  free  from  pith,  which  you  have  previously'  cut  in 
fillets  and  blanched  five  minutes  in  boiling  water,  boil  the 
sauce  a  few  minutes,  keeping  it  stirred,  and  finish  with 
the  juice  of  half  the  orange,  sauce  over  and  serve.  This 
sauce  requires  to  be  quite  transparent,  but  to  have  con- 
sistence enough  to  adhere  to  the  fillets ;  filets  de  cane- 
tons a  la  bigarade  are  the  same  as  above,  merely  substi- 
tuting a  Seville  or  real  bigarade  for  a  sweet  orange. 

No.  847.  MleU  de  Canetons  fards. 

Bone  a  duckling  by  placing  it  on  your  board  and  open- 
ing it  at  the  back-bone,  which  is  first  to  be  taken  out, 
then  lay  it  out  flat ;  teike  out  the  other  bones  singly,  and 
cover  the  interior  with  forcemeat  of  fowl  (No.  122),  filling 
up  every  cavity  and  making  it  perfectly  level  on  the  top, 
put  some  thin  slices  of  bacon  at  the  bottom  of  a  deep  saute- 
pan  with  a  bunch  of  parsley  and  a  few  onions  in  shces,  lay 
the  duckling  over  and  cover  with  white  stock,  lay  a  sheet 
of  buttered  paper  over  and  put  it  in  a  slow  ovep  for  one 
hour  or  more  till  tender,  take  it  up,  lay  it  on  a  dish  free 
from  the  bacon  or  onions,  place  another  dish  over  and  press 
it  till  cold,  then  cut  it  into  pieces  the  size  and  shape  of  the 
other  fillets  above,  warm  them  in  a  saute-pan  in  a  little 
good  stock,  dress  them  in  crown  and  serve  in  any  of  the 
preceding  ways. 


860 


ENTREES   OF   GAME. 

No.  848.  Fileta  de  Zievre  sauce  reforme. 

Procure  three  good-sized  but  young  hares,  when  skinned 
lav  them  on  a  table  and  pass  a  knife  down  the  back-bone, 
from  the  shoulder  to  the  leg,  keeping  it  close  to  the  ribs  till 
you  have  extracted  the  fillet,  when  done  lay  the  fiUets  on  a 
board  the  skin  side  downwards,  and  with  a  thin  knife  cut 
off  the  whole  of  the  skin,  by  pressing  your  hand  upon  the 
fillet  and  drawing  the  knife  along  from  the  thin  end  to  the 
thick ;  cut  each  fillet  in  halves,  beat  them  lightly,  trim  them 
of  a  nice  shape,  and  lard  them  neatly,  then  cover  the  bot- 
tom of  a  stewpan  with  thin  sHces  of  fat  bacon,  lay  the  fillets 
over,  add  three  onions  in  slices  with  a  bunch  of  parsley,  a 
blade  of  mace,  and  a  couple  of  cloves,  put  in  a  little  broth, 
but  not  to  cover  them,  place  the  hd  on  the  stewpan  and 
place  them  in  a  moderate  oven  till  tender,  glaze  and  sala- 
mander a  nice  colour,  take  them  out,  drain  them  a  minute 
on  a  cloth,  trim  nicely,  and  dress  them  in  crown  on  a  bor- 
der of  mashed  potatoes,  and  serve  with  a  sauce  reforme 
(No.  35)  over,  previously  placing  a  thin  piece  of  toasted 
bread  the  same  size  as  the  fillets  between  each. 

No.  849.  Filets  de  Lievre pique  aatice poivrade. 

Proceed  exactly  as  in  the  last,  dress  them  in  crown  with- 
out the  pieces  of  toast,  and  serve  with  a  sauce  poivrade 
(No.  32)  over,  dressed  in  the  same  manner,  they  may  be 
served  with  a  sauce  tomate  (No.  37). 

No.  850.  Filets  de  Lievre pique  a  la  Bourguignote. 

Proceed  and  dress  your  fillets  exactly  as  before,  and  have 
ready  the  following  sauce :  peel  forty  button  onions,  then 


£NTB££8.  361 

put  a  little  pounded  sugar  in  a  stewpan,  which  place  over 
the  fire,  when  it  melts  and  turns  yellowish  put  in  a  pat  of 
butter  and  your  onions,  keep  moving  them  over  a  slow  fire 
till  they  become  rather  brown,  then  add  a  pint  of  brown 
sauce  (No.  1)  and  six  tablespoonfuls  of  consomme,  place  it 
at  the  comer  of  the  stove,  and  skim  well,  let  simmer  till 
the  onions  ene  done ;  then  take  them  out  with  a  colander 
spoon  and  place  them  in  another  stewpan,  reduce  the  sauce 
till  it  adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  pass  it  through  a 
tammie  over  the  onions,  have  twenty  pieces  of  cooked 
streaky  bacon  in  diamonds  the  size  of  the  onions,  put  them 
in  the  sauce,  which  make  hot,  but  not  to  boil,  sauce  over 
and  serve. 

No.  851.  Mlets  de  Idevre  pique,  marine  en  demi-glace. 

Prepare  and  lard  twelve  pieces  of  fillets  as  usual,  have 
ready  a  quart  of  marinade,  see  filet  de  boeuf  a  la  Bohemi- 
enne  (No.  426),  and  put  them  into  it  for  three  days ;  when 
wanted  dry  them  on  a  cloth,  butter  a  saute-pan,  lay  in  the 
fillets,  cover  them  with  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper,  and  stand 
them  twenty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven,  glaze  and  sala- 
mander a  hght  brown,  and  dress  in  crown  on  a  border  of 
mashed  potatoes,  then  pour  as  much  of  the  butter  off  from 
the  saute-pan  as  possible,  and  put  eight  spoonfuls  of  the 
marinade  and  a  pint  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1)  into  it,  reduce 
over  the  fire,  keeping  it  stirred  till  it  adheres  to  the  back  of 
the  spoon,  add  a  small  piece  of  glaze  and  a  teaspoonful  of 
currant  jelly ;  sauce  over  and  serve. 

No.  852,  Escalopes  de  Ltevre  a  la  Chasseur. 

EiQet  three  hares  as  before  and  cut  each  fillet  into  four 
escalopes  in  a  slanting  direction ;  beat  them  into  an  oval 
shape,  put  an  ounce  of  butter  in  a  deep  saute-pan,  with  a 
teaspoonful  of  chopped  eschalots ;  when  the  butter  is  melted 


862  BNTREES. 

lay  in  the  escalopes,  season  them  with  a  little  pepper  and 
salt,  and  place  them  on  a  sharp  fire ;  when  half  done  turn 
them  over,  be  careful  not  to  do  them  too  much;  when 
done  dress  in  crown  upon  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes, 
pour  off  the  butter,  then  put  a  gkss  of  port  wine  in  the 
saute-pan,  with  fifteen  spoonfuls  of  demi-glace  (No.  9),  a 
little  salt,  and  sugar,  reduce  it  three  minutes,  keeping  it 
stirred,  sauce  over  and  serve. 

No.  853.   Cotelettes  de  Lievre  a  la  DaupAine. 

Fillet  two  hares  as  before,  and  out  of  each  fillet  cut  three 
cotelettes  by  cutting  each  fillet  in  halves,  making  one  of  the 
thin  end  and  cutting  the  thick  into  two  equal  slices,  thus 
making  twelve  pieces  of  the  four  fillets ;  beat  them  of  an 
equal  thickness,  boil  the  rib-bones  of  one  of  the  hares  till  all 
the  flesh  comes  off,  and  stick  a  bone  in  each  piece  to  imitate 
the  bone  of  a  cotelette,  egg,  bread-crumb,  and  fry  them  in 
oil  a  nice  colour,  but  not  too  much  done,  dress  in  crown 
upon  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes,  and  sauce  over  with  a 
sauce  piquante  (No.  27)  in  which  you  have  introduced  a 
few  chopped  olives.    * 

No.  854    li^rdan  de  lAevre  a  la  Peronne. 

Fillet  one  large  hare  and  make  six  cotelettes  out  of  the 
two  fillets  as  in  the  last,  egg  and  bread-crumb  them  with 
a  little  chopped  ham  mixed  with  the  bread-crumbs,  and 
fry  in  oil  as  before ;  you  have  previously  made  forcemeat 
of  the  legs  as  described  (No.  123),  with  which  make  six 
large  quenelles,  poach,  and  dish  them  on  a  border  of 
mashed  potatoes  alternately  with  the  cotelettes ;  have 
ready  the  following  sauce :  put  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped 
eschalots  in  a  stewpan,  with  two  of  tarragon  vinegar  and 
a  piece  of  glaze  half  the  size  of  a  walnut,  place  over  the  fire 
two  minutes,  add  a  pint  of  white  sauce  and  eight  spoonfuls 


ENTREES.  863 

of  white  stock,  reduce  till  rather  thick,  then  add  a  little 
sugar  and  twenty  small  pickled  onions;  sauce  over  the 
quenelles,  glasfe  the  cotelettes  and  serve. 

For  boudins  de  lievre,  or  quenelles,  proceed  the  same  as 
for  boudins  or  quenelles  de  volaille,  only  using  forcemeat 
made  from  the  legs  of  the  hare  instead  of  the  forcemeat 
of  fowl;  and  for  jugged  hare  and  civet  de  lievre,  see 
Kitchen  at  Home.  They  may  be  made  from  the  legs  after 
you  have  taken  the  fiUets  for  other  purposes. 

No.  855.  Filets  de  Lapereau  a  la  Valencienne. 

Por  entrees  the  tame  rabbits  are  the  best,  and  most  pre- 
ferable ;  but  the  wild  are  very  good  and  may  be  dressed  in 
any  of  the  following  ways. 

Take  three  or  four  young  rabbits,  skin  and  fillet  them 
the  same  as  the  hares ;  if  the  fillets  are  sufficiently  large 
cut  each  one  in  halves  forming  each  piece  in  the  shape  of  a 
small  cotelette,  beat  them  lightly  and  of  equal  thickness, 
place  them  in  a  buttered  saute-pan,  season  with  a  little 
white  pepper,  salt,  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  place 
them  over  a  moderate  fire  and  when  half  done  turn  them ; 
they  are  done  as  soon  as  they  feel  firm  to  the  touch,  and 
must  be  kept  quite  white,  dress  in  crown  upon  a  border  of 
mashed  potatoes,  put  eighteen  spoonfuls  of  white  sauce 
(No.  7)  in  the  saute-pan,  with  ten  of  white  stock,  stir  over 
the  fire  till  it  adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  add  a  little 
pepper  and  salt  if  required,  finish  with  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  cream  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon ;  sauce  over  and 
serve. 

No.  856.  Mleta  de  Lapereau  a  TEcarlate, 

Fillet  three  rabbits  and  so  cut  the  fillets  as  to  have  nine 
pieces,  which  cook  as  in  the  last,  then  cut  nine  slices  of 
cooked  ham  of  the  same  size  and  shape  as  the  fillets,  and 


364  ENTREES. 

make  them  hot  in  a  little  stock,  dress  them  alternately  with 
the  fillets  in  crown  upon  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes, 
then  put  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (No.  7)  and  half  a  pint  of 
white  stock  in  the  saute-pan,  stir  over  the  fire  until  nearly 
thick  enough,  then  add  twenty  heads  of  blanched  mush- 
rooms and  a  Uttle  sugar,  boil  another  minute,  and  finish 
with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream ;  sauce  over  the  fillets, 
glaze  the  tongue  and  serve. 

No.  857.  Turban  de  Lapereau  a  la  JDouariere. 

Fillet  three  good-sized  rabbits  and  cut  each  fillet  in 
halves,  making  twelve  pieces,  six  of  which  lard  neatly; 
dress  the  six  plain  as  before,  but  the  six  larded  ones  must 
be  braised  like  sweetbreads,  and  glazed,  and  salamander  a 
good  colour,  make  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes  on  your 
dish,  upon  which  dress  the  fillets  alternately,  (one  larded 
and  one  plain,)  in  crown,  put  a  pint  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1) 
in  the  saute-pan,  with  half  a  pint  of  consomme,  boil  and 
skim,  add  half  a  glass  of  sherry,  and  a  little  salt,  pepper, 
and  sugar,  with  two  spoonfuls  of  tomata  sauce  (No.  37) 
and  twenty  small  quenelles  from  forcemeat  made  with  the 
legs  of  the  rabbits,  as  described  (No.  121) ;  when  hot,  sauce 
over  the  plain  fillets,  glaze  the  larded  ones,  put  all  the  que- 
nelles in  the  centre  and  serve. 

No.  858.  Bpigramme  de  Filets  de  Lapereau. 

Proceed  precisely  as  in  the  last,  only  dressing  the  six 
plain  fillets  on  one  side  and  the  larded  ones  on  the  other 
instead  of  alternately,  and  add  twelve  dressed  cockscombs 
and  twelve  blanched  mushrooms  to  the  garniture  in  the 
sauce ;  or  they  may  be  served  with  a  blanquette  made  fit>m 
the  legs  of  the  rabbits,  previously  braised,  proceeding  as 
described  for  blanquette  de  dinde  (No.  791). 


ENTREES.  365 


No.  859.  FUeta  de  Lapereau  a  la  Muatdmane. 

Lard  twelve  pieces  of  fillets  from  three  or  four  rabbits, 
braise  them  as  you  would  sweetbreads ;  when  done  glaze 
and  salamander  of  a  light  colour,  and  dress  in  crown  as 
high  as  possible ;  you  have  boiled  half  a  pound  of  good  rice 
(No.  129),  season  it  with  a  little  salt,  and  mix  four  pats  of 
butter  and  a  pinch  of  saffron  with  it,  dress  it  in  pyramid  in 
the  centre  of  your  dish,  serve  with  a  thin  currie  sauce 
(No.  46)  round  the  fillets,  and  some  separate  in  a  boat ; 
serve  very  hot. 

No.  860.   Cotelettea  de  Lapereau  auwpetitea  racines. 

Fillet  three  rabbits,  cut  each  fillet  in  halves  and  shape 
them  in  the  form  of  cotelettes,  sticking  a  piece  of  the  rib- 
bone  of  the  rabbit  in  at  the  thin  end,  egg,  bread-crumb, 
and  fiy  them  in  oil  of  a  Kght  brown  colour,  dress  in  crown, 
glaze  them  lightly,  and  sauce  as  directed  for  grenadins  de 
veau  (No.  692). 

The  legs  and  shoulders  may  be  used  for  pies,  curries,  or 
fricassees,  which  I  give  in  my  Kitchen  at  Home. 

No.  861.  Lapereau  saute  aux  truffes. 

Procure  two  nice  young  rabbits,  which  cut  into  twelve 
pieces,  being  two  legs,  two  shoulders,  and  two  nice  pieces 
from  the  back  of  each ;  put  four  ounces  of  butter  in  a  thick- 
bottomed  saute-pan ;  when  melted  lay  in  the  pieces  and 
proceed  as  directed  for  petits  poulets  saute  aux  truffes  (No. 
820).  Lapereau  saute  aux  champignons  is  done  the  same, 
using  mushrooms  instead  of  truffles,  and  lapereau  saute  aux 
fines  herbes,  by  using  a  sauce  fines  herbes  (No.  26)  instead 
of  the  brown  sauce,  and  omitting  both  the  truffles  and 
mushrooms. 


866  £NTRX£S. 

No.  862.  Lapereau  a  la  Marengo. 

Cut  up  two  rabbits  precisely  as  above,  and  proceed  as 
directed  for  poulet  printanier  a  la  Marengo  (No.  829), 
dress  them  as  high  as  possible  on  the  dish,  pyramidically, 
sauce  over  and  serve. 

No.  863.  Babbit  Currie. 

Cut  up  two  rabbits  as  before,  and  cook  them  as  for 
saute  aux  truflFes  (No.  861) ;  when  done  and  nicely  brown- 
ed pour  off  as  much  butter  as  possible  and  pour  a  quart  of 
currie  sauce  (No.  46)  over,  add  twenty  button  onions,  pre- 
viously stewed  in  a  little  broth,  and  twenty  pieces  of  cook- 
ed streaky  bacon  cut  in  small  diamonds,  stand  them  over  a 
slow  fire  twenty  minutes,  keeping  it  stirred  occasionally ; 
then  build  the  pieces  up  in  your  dish,  sauce  over  and  serve 
with  rice  (No.  1 29)  in  a  separate  dish ;  should  the  sauce 
be  too  thick  moisten  it  with  a  drop  of  broth,  bujt  it  requires 
to  be  thick  enough  to  adhere  to  the  rabbit. 

No.  864.  Fricassee  de  Lapereau. 

Cut  up  two  young  rabbits  as  before,  and  put  them  two 
hours  in  warm  water  to  disgorge,  then  put  them  in  a  stew- 
pan  just  covered  with  clear  water,  add  two  onions,  one 
carrot,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  two  cloves,  and  a  little  salt,  boil 
half  an  hour  at  the  corner  of  the  stove,  and  skim  well,  take 
out  the  pieces  and  pass  the  stock  through  a  cloth,  trim  each 
piece  of  rabbit  nicely,  and  put  it  in  another  stewpan,  with 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  pass  them  over  the  fire  three 
minutes,  then  mix  one  ounce  of  flour  with  them,  pour  the 
stock  over  and  add  fifty  peeled  button  onions,  stir  round 
gently  until  boiling,  then  draw  it  to  the  comer  of  the  fire  and 
let  simmer  till  the  rabbit  is  very  tender,  then  take  thein  out, 
with  the  onions,  and  put  them  in  another  stewpan,  reduce 


SNTREES.  867 

the  sauce  till  it  adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  pass  it 
through  a  tammie  over  the  rabbit  and  onions,  add  a  Uaison 
of  two  yolks  of  eggs  mixed  with  half  a  gill  of  cream,  stir  it 
in  gently,  place  it  over  the  fire  but  do  not  let  it  boil,  dress 
the  rabbit  in  your  dish  and  sauce  over ;  nmshrooms  may  be 
added,  and  the  onions  ought  to  be  kept  as  whole  as  possible. 

No.  865.  Faisans  au  veloute  de  Gibier. 

Boast  two  small  young  pheasants  in  vegetables  as  direct- 
ed for  the  Hemoves,  let  them  get  cold,  then  cut  off  neatly 
the  two  wings,  two  legs,  and  two  pieces  from  the  breasts 
of  each,  which  will  make  twelve  very  nice  pieces,  take  off 
the  skin  and  place  them  in  a  stewpan,  cover  them  with  a 
little  stock  and  six  spoonfuls  of  veloute  (No.  6),  put  them 
in  the  bain  marie  to  warm  gently,  then  put  a  quart  of  white 
sauce  (No.  7)  in  a  stewpan,  with  half  a  pint  of  white  stock 
and  the  backs  and  trimmings  of  the  pheasants  cut  up  very 
small,  reduce  till  it  adheres  Ughtly  to  the  back  of  the  spoon, 
pour  off  the  stock  from  the  pieces  of  pheasants,  place  a 
tammie  over  the  stewpan,  over  which  hold  a  colander,  pour 
the  sauce  through  the  colander,  and  then  squeeze  it  through 
the  tammie,  add  a  httle  sugar  and  a  Uttle  cream,  place 
the  stewpan  over  the  fire  but  do  not  let  its  contents  boil, 
dress  the  pieces  of  pheasants  in  pyramid,  placing  a  little 
mashed  potatoes  on  the  bottom  of  the  dish  to  keep  them 
in  their  place ;  sauce  over  and  serve. 

No.  866.  Faisans  a  la  puree  de  Gidier. 

Cut  up  two  small  pheasants  as  above,  dress  them  in 
pyramid  on  your  dish  and  serve  with  a  sauce  a  .la  puree 
de  gibier  (No.  69)  over,  have  about  fiifty  very  small  crou- 
tons of  bread,  diamond  shape,  and  Med  in  oil,  which 
sprinkle  over  the  last  thing  before  serving. 


368  ENTREES. 

No.  867.  FUeta  de  Faiaans  a  la  Comte  de  Brabant. 

Fillet  two  full-grown  young  pheasants  as  you  would  a 
fowl,  lard  and  braise  them  exactly  the  same,  have  half 
boiled  in  water  skty  very  fine  Brussels  sprouts,  drain  them 
in  a  colander  and  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  streaky  bacon,  season  with  a  little  pepper  and 
salt,  add  a  pint  of  good  stock  and  stew  them  over  a  mode- 
rate fire  till  the  stock  is  reduced  to  glaze,  take  out  the 
sprouts,  squeeze  them  together  between  two  dishes,  and 
dress  them  as  a  perfect  pyramid  in  the  centre  of  your  dish, 
glaze  and  salamander  the  fillets  nicely,  and  dress  a  fillet 
on  each  side  with  a  thin  slice  of  the  bacon  at  each  comer, 
place  a  quenelle  at  the  top,  and  sauce  round  with  the 
sauce  fumee  de  gibier  (No.  60) ;  serve  immediately. 

No.  868.*  -Mfefe  de  Faisans  pique  aux  legumes. 

Lard  and  braise  six  fillets  fi'om  three  pheasants  as  above, 
have  a  fine  fresh  cucumber,  cut  six  pieces  from  it  of  the 
same  size  as  the  fillets,  which  stew  in  a  little  stock  in  which 
you  have  put  half  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar;  when  tender 
but  not  too  much  done  drain  them  on  a  cloth ;  make  a 
border  of  mashed  potatoes  on  your  dish,  upon  which  dress 
the  fillets  and  pieces  of  cucumber  alternately  in  crown ; 
have  ready  a  small  jardiniere  sauce  (No.  100)  to  which  you 
have  added  a  few  blanched  mushrooms,  put  the  vegetables 
in  the  centre  with  a  piece  of  boiled  (or  a  small)  cauliflower 
on  the  top,  sauce  round,  glaze  the  fillets  and  serve. 

No.  869.  Twrhan  de  Faisans  en  salmi. 

Boast  two  pheasants  in  vegetables  as  directed  in  the 
Bemoves,  cut  them  into  quarters,  that  is,  the  four  breasts 
with  the  wings  and  the  legs  with  a  piece  of  the  back-bone, 
beat  and  trim  them  lightly,  cut  ofi^  the  pinion  frx)m  the 


BNTRBBS.  360 

wings,  and  make  the  breasts  and  legs  nearly  of  the  same 
shape,  place  them  in  a  stewpan,  cover  them  with  a  little 
stock,  put  the  lid  on  the  stewpan  and  set  in  the  bain  marie 
to  get  hot,  make  a  border  of  forcemeat  (see  ris  de  veau  a 
la  Torque  No.  673) ;  when  done  place  it  in  the  centre  of 
your  dish  and  dress  the  pieces  in  crown  upon  it,  sauce 
over  with  a  sauce  fiunee  de  gibier  (No.  60)  in  which  you 
have  put  four  large  truffles  in  slices,  or  twenty  button 
mushrooms ;  serve  very  hot. 

No.  870.  Filets  de  Faiaana  a  la  Marquise. . 

Fillet  four  young  pheasants,  lard  and  braise  four  of  the 
fillets,  (as  for  the  filets  aux  l%umes),  egg  the  other  four 
over  with  a  paste-brush  and  throw  them  into  a  plate  in 
which  you  have  chopped  ham  and  bread-crumbs  mixed, 
cover  them  well,  beat  gently  with  a  knife,  and  fry  a  Ught 
brown  in  a  Httle  clarified  butter,  make  a  small  border  of 
mashed  potatoes  upon  your  dish  and  dress  the  fillets  alter- 
nately upon  it;  you  have  previously  prepared  a  sauce 
veloute  de  gibier  (No.  58),  rather  more  than  a  pint,  add 
twenty  very  white  dressed  cockscombs,  when  hot  sauce 
round  and  garniture  in  the  centre ;  glaze  your  fillets  and 
serve ;  a  spoonful  of  whipped  cream  would  also  be  a  great 
improvement  added  to  the  sauce  when  finished. 

No.  871.  Filets  de  Faisans  a  la  Maintenon. 

Prepare  eight  small  or  four  large  fillets  divided  into  two 
separate  slices,  put  them  in  a  saute-pan  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  oil,  place  them  over  a  sharp  fire,  saute  them 
very  underdone,  and  lay  them  on  a  cloth,  put  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  chopped  onions  in  the  saute-pau,  fry  them  till 
turning  yellow,  then  add  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (No.  7), 
two  spoonfuls  of  chopped  mushrooms,  two  of  chopped 
parsley,  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  pepper,  salt,  and  sugar, 

24 


370  KNTRKE8. 

reduce  till  rather  thick,  keeping  it  stirred,  lay  in  the  filleto 
to  warm,  and  leave  them  to  get  cold  in  the  sauce,  have 
eight  pieces  of  paper  each  cut  in  the  shape  of  a  heart, 
and  lai^  enough  to  fold  a  fiUet  in,  place  a  fillet  in  eadi 
with  the  sauce  equally  divided  amongst  them,  fold  the 
papers  over,  twisting  them  up  at  the  edges,  and  place  them 
on  the  gridiron  to  broil  over  a  slow  fire ;  when  done  dress 
in  crown  on  your  dish  leaving  them  in  the  papers,  and 
serve  with  a  little  plain  gravy. 

After  having  used  the  fiUets  of  pheasants  one  day  the 
legs  may  be  used  the  next,  by  roasting  in  vegetables  and 
trimming  them  nicely ;  serve  either  a  la  Brabant  (No.  S67), 
or  en  salmi  (No.  869);  but  the  legs  of  large  pheasants 
being  so  stringy  will  not  make  a  very  delicate  entree,  and 
it  is  much  better  to  convert  tiiem  into  a  sauce  a  la  puree 
de  gibier  (No.  59),  soup,  (No.  175),  or  forcemeat  (No.  123). 

No.  872.  Turban  de  Quenelles  de  Faisans. 

Proceed  exactly  as  for  the  quenelles  de  volaille,  only 
using  4  forcemeat  made  from  the  flesh  of  pheasants  instead 
of  fowl,  dress  them  in  crown,  and  serve  with  a  sauce 
veloute  de  gibier  (No.  58),  puree  de  gibier  (No.  59),  or 
sauce  fumee  de  gibier,  either  of  which  may  be  garnished 
with  cockscombs,  truffles,  or  mushrooms,  as  directed  for 
the  entrees  of  pheasants. 

Boudins  de  faisans  are  served  the  same  way  only  shaping 
them  as  directed  for  boudins  de  volaille  a  la  Richelieu 
(No.  838),  with  which  sauce  they  may  also  be  served. 

No.  878.  Grouse  a  la  Commodore, 

Prepare  two  young  but  fall-grown  grouse,  roast  one  of 
them  underdone,  and  make  forcemeat  (No.  123)  of  the 
other ;  when  the  roasted  one  is  cold  cut  it  into  eight  pieces, 
that  is,  two  wings,  two  legs,  two  pieces  of  the  bad^  and 


r 


ENTREES.  371 

two  pieces  of  the  breast ;  cover  each  piece  all  over  with  the 
forcemeat  the  sixth  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  egg  each  piece 
over  and  place  them  in  a  buttered  saute-pan,  just  cover 
them  with  a  little  white  stock  and  boil  gently  ten  minutes, 
lay  them  on  a  cloth  to  drain,  put  a  little  mashed  potatoes 
on  the  bottom  of  your  dish,  build  the  pieces  in  pyramid, 
and  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  chop  the  bone  of  the 
grouse  very  small  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  three 
pints  of  consomme  free  from  salt,  an  onion,  and  a  little 
celery,  with  a  bunch  of  parsley  and  two  cloves,  boil  gently 
half  an  hour,  pass  the  stock  through  a  cloth  into  a  stewpan, 
reduce  to  a  very  thin  glaze,  then  mix  a  tablespoonful  of  the 
best  arrow-root  with  half  a  glassful  of  wine  and  a  Uttle  cold 
broth ;  pour  it  into  the  gravy,  keeping  it  stirred,  season  a 
httle  more  if  required,  and  when  boiling  sauce  over  and 
serve. 

No.  874.  FUets  de  Grouse  a  la  Paoli. 

Boast  four  young  grouse  in  vegetables  as  described  for 
the  E^emoves,  take  out  the  breasts  or  fillets  carefully,  have 
ready  a  pound  of  forcemeat  (No.  123),  with  which  cover 
each  fillet  nearly  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness  all  over, 
put  them  in  a  buttered  saute-pan,  just  covered  with  a 
little  white  stock,  boil  gently  ten  minutes  and  lay  them  on 
a  cloth ;  have  ready  eight  croutons  or  pieces  of  bread,  the 
shape  of  the  fillets  and  the  thickness  of  a  crown-piece,  fried 
in  oil  a  light  brown  and  very  crisp,  dress  the  fillets  and 
croutons  alternately  in  crown  upon  a  border  of  mashed 
potatoes,  glaze  the  croutons,  sauce  over  with  a  demi-glace 
de  gibier  (No.  61),  sprinkle  a  few  chopped  olives  over,  and 
serve  very  hot. 

No.  875.  Filets  de  Grouse  a  la  Chanceliere. 
Fillet  four  young  grouse,  trim  the  fillets  as  directed  for 


872  £NTR££S. 

filet  de  poularde  (No.  792),  butter  a  saute-pan  with  two 
ounces  of  butter,  lay  in  your  fillets,  season  with  a  httle 
pepper,  salt,  and  lemon-juice,  add  a  piece  of  glaze  the  size 
of  a  walnut,  place  them  on  the  fire,  saute  underdone,  pour 
o£P  as  much  butter  as  possible,  add  a  pint  of  demi-glace 
(No.  9)  and  twenty  small  quenelles  (No.  120);  shake  the 
saute-pan  round  over  the  fire  two  minutes,  take  out  the 
fillets,  which  dress  in  crown  on  a  border  of  mashed  pota- 
toes ;  sauce  oyer,  put  the  fillets  and  quenelles  in  the  centre 
and  serve. 

No.  876.  Salmi  de  Grouse  omx  truffes. 

Plain  roast  two  grouse  and  cut  each  one  up  into  eight 
neat  pieces  (whilst  hot,  as  for  a  la  commodore),  place  them 
in  a  stewpan,  cover  them  with  a  thin  brown  sauce  (No.  1), 
put  the  cover  on  the  stewpan  and  place  it  in  the  bain 
mcuie  till  the  pieces  are  hot,  in  another  stewpan  have  a 
pint  and  a  half  of  the  sauce  fumee  de  gibier,  reduce  it 
a  third,  then  add  six  middling-sized  truffles  cut  in  thin 
sUces,  and  a  httle  sugar ;  have  also  six  croutons  or  sdppets 
of  fried  bread  (as  for  a  la  Paoli),  dress  the  pieces  of  grouse 
in  pyramid  on  your  dish,  with  the  croutons  well  glazed 
resting  upon  them  round  the  dish ;  sauce  over  and  serve. 

No.  877.  Grouse  a  la  Ailsa, 

Roast  two  grouse,  cut  them  into  quarters,  that  is,  the 
wings  with  the  breasts,  and  the  legs  with  the  back-bone, 
pound  the  back  and  trimmings  well  in  a  mortar  and  put 
them  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  pint  of  the  sauce  fumee  de 
gibier  (No.  60),  boil  five  minutes,  then  pass  it  through  a 
hair  sieve  into  another  stewpan,  season  with  a  little  salt 
and  sugar  if  required,  and  add  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  stir 
over  the  fire  till  it  becomes  thickish  but  do  not  let  it  boil, 
then  put  in  the  pieces  of  grouse ;  when  half  cold  dress  them 


ENTREES.  <->    373 

upon  8  border  of  mashed  potatoes,  sauce  and  sprinkle 
bread-crumbs  over  and  place  them  in  a  moderate  oven  half 
an  hour ;  serve  with  a  demi-glace  de  gibier  (No.  61)  round. 

No.  878.  T\irban  de  Quenelles  de  Grouse  a  la  Modeme. 

Make  and  poach  twelve  quenelles  firom  a  forcemeat  of 
grouse  (see  No.  123),  poach  them  as  for  quenelles  de 
volaille  (No.  831),  dress  in  crown  upon  a  border  of  mashed 
potatoes,  sauce  over  with  a  sauce  fumee  de  gibier  (No.  60), 
have  ready  the  yolk  of  a  hard-boiled  egg  chopped  very 
fine,  which  sprinkle  over  and  serve. 

Black  cocks  and  gray  hens  being  larger  birds  are  gene- 
ralfy  used  for  roasting,  but  the  gray  hen  if  well  kept  may 
be  dressed  in  any  of  the  preceding  ways ;  the  ptarmigan 
also  which  makes  its  appearance  in  February,  (a  Swedish 
bird  as  well  as  Scotch,)  may  be  used  for  the  same  purposes 
as  grouse,  the  flavour  is  similar  but  not  quite  so  good. 

No.  879.  Perdreauw  a  la  Silene. 

Procure  three  yoimg  partridges,  pluck  and  draw  them 
and  cut  each  bird  in  halves,  cut  off  each  leg  below  the 
knuckle,  break  the  part  of  the  leg  above  the  knuckle,  make 
an  incision  in  the  thigh  and  turn  the  leg  inside,'  break  the 
back-bone  (in  three)  the  thigh-bone  and  the  joint  of  the 
wing  in  each,  place  the  six  halves  in  a  saute-pdn,  in  which 
you  have  put  eight  tablespoonfuls  of  oil,  fry  gently  till 
three  parts  done,  then  egg,  bread-crumb,  and  place  them 
on  a  gridiron  over  a  slow  fire,  broil  them  a  good  colour, 
and  dress  in  crown  upon  your  dish,  then  pour  off  the  oil 
from  the  saute-pan,  add  two  glasses  of  port  wine,  a  spoon- 
ful of  chopped  eschalots  and  one  of  chopped  mushrooms, 
pass  them  over  the  fire  two  minutes,  add  a  pint  of  brown 
sauce  (No.  1,)  ten  spoonfuls  of  consomme,  and  a  httle 
pepper,  salt,  and  sugar,  reduce  till  rather  thick,  finish  with 


S74     *  BNTRBBS. 

the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  sauce  round  and  serve,  slightly 
glazing  the  partridges. 

No.  880.  Perdreaux  ffriiles  a  la  puree  de  Gibier. 

Prepare  and  broil  three  partridges  as  in  the  last;  you 
have  previously  roasted  an  old  one  and  made  a  puree  of  it 
as  directed  (No.  69),  dress  the  partridges  in  crown,  glaze 
and  serve  with  the  puree  round  and  in  the  centre. 

No.  881.  Perdreauw  aux  chaux. 

Procure  two  partridges  trussed  as  for  boiling,  and  lard 
them  with  fat  bacon  lengthwise  up  the  breast ;  have  ready 
two  white-heart  savoy  cabbages,  cut  them  in  quarters  and 
blanch  them  ten  minutes  in  boiling  water;  drain  them 
quite  dry  on  a  cloth,  season  well  with  white  pepper  and 
salt,  cut  off  all  the  stalk  and  place  them  in  a  stewpan  with 
half  a  pound  of  streaky  bacon ;  cover  with  a  good  white 
stock  and  place  them  over  a  slow  fire  to  stew  until  the 
stock  has  reduced  to  a  thin  glaze  and  the  cabbage  is  quite 
tender ;  you  have  roasted  the  two  partridges,  thrust  tiiem 
quite  hot  into  the  cabbage,  and  place  the  stewpan  contain- 
ing them  in  a  bain  marie  to  keep  hot  for  one  hour,  or  till 
ready  for  use,  then  drain  and  press  the  cabbage  in  a  colan- 
der, saving  the  stock  that  comes  from  it ;  dress  in  a  dome 
on  your  dish,  take  the  skewers  and  strings  from  the  birds 
and  dress  them  upon  the  top  with  sUces  of  the  bacon 
round,  broil  three  sausages,  which  cut  in  halves  lengthwise 
and  lay  round  at  the  bottom,  put  a  pint  of  brown  sauce 
(No.  1)  in  a  stewpan,  vnth  twelve  spoonfuls  of  stock  from 
the  cabbage,  skim  off  aU  the  fat,  reduce  to  a  demi-glace, 
sauce  over  and  serve. 

No.  882.   Chartreuses  de  Perdreaux. 
Proceed  as  directed  in  the  Planes  (Nos.  604,  606,  and 


£NT&££S.  375 

606),  but  using  a  round  mould  not  i^  large  for  the  dish 
instead  of  oval  moulds  as  there  directed. 

No.  883.  FUets  de  Perdreauw  aux petits  Upimes. 

Koast  six  young  partridges  underdone  and  when  nearly 
cold  cut  out  the  breasts  or  fillets  as  neatly  as  possible, 
place  them  in  a  saute-pan,  with  a  piece  of  glaze  the  size  of 
a  wabiut  and  a  little  white  stock,  warm  them  and  reduce 
the  stock  to  glaze,  dress  them  in  crown  upon  a  border  of 
mashed  potatoes,  have  prepared  some  carrots,  turnips,  and 
button  onions  as  for  sauce  a  la  jardiniere  (No.  100),  pass 
them  over  the  fire  in  a  little  butter  and  sugar,  cover  them 
with  a  pint  of  the  sauce  fumee  de  gibier  (No.  60),  six 
spoonfuls  of  consomme,  and  the  glaze  from  the  saute-pan ; 
simmer  at  the  comer  of  the  stove  till  the  vegetables  are 
quite  done,  skim  it  well,  dress  the  vegetables  in  the  centre, 
glaze  the  fillets  and  serve. 

No.  884.  Filets  de  Perdreattos  a  la  Florentine. 

Roast  sis  partridges  and  fillet  them  as  in  the  last, 
warm  and  dress  them  precisely  the  same,  then  have 
a  pint  of  demi-gkce  de  gibier  (No.  61)  in  a  stewpan, 
reduce  it  a  third,  then  add  twelve  blanched  mushrooms, 
twelve  dressed  cockscombs,  and  twelve  very  small  French 
preserved  truffles ;  add  a  little  sugar,  place  the  garniture  in 
the  centre,  sauce  over  and  serve. 

No.  885.   Cotelettcs  de  Perdreaux  a  la  Bacchante, 

Procure  six  young  partridges,  fillet  them,  take  a  rib-bone 
and  stick  in  the  small  end  of  each  fillet,  beat  them  lightly  with 
a  thin  knife,  take  off  the  skin,  season  with  a  little  pepper 
and  salt,  egg,  bread-crumb,  and  firy  of  a  light  brown  colour 
in  salad  oil,  but  not  too  much  done,  dress  them  in  crown 
on  a  small  border  of  mashed  potatoes,  have  ready  a  pint  of 


376  ENTREES. 

the  sauce  veloute  de  gibier  (No.  68),  which  you  have  made 
from  the  legs  and  bones  of  the  birds,  which  put  in  a  stew- 
pan,  with  a  pint  of  white  stock  (No.  133),  reduce,  and 
when  it  adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon  add  fifty  Smyrna 
raisins  previously  soaked  in  hot  water  two  hours,  and  the 
juice  of  ten  large  Portugal  grapes,  sauce  in  the  centre,  glaze 
the  cotelettes  and  serve.  I  have  served  this  curious  entree 
with  English  grapes  whole  in  it,  and  very  good  it  is,  being 
refreshing  to  the  palate,  but  a  person  requires  to  be  used  to 
them  before  they  can  appreciate. 

No.  886.  Cotelettes  dePerdreattx  a  laDouariere. 

Prepare  twelve  cotelettes  as  above,  fiy  them  in  oil  and 
dress  them  the  same  on  your  dish ;  have  a  pint  of  demi-glace 
de  gibier  (No.  61)  in  a  stewpan,  reduce  it  one  third,  have 
forty  small  quenelles  made  &om  forcemeat  from  the  legs, 
(see  No.  123),  the  quenelles  must  be  made  with  very  small 
egg-spoons,  as  directed  for  the  quenelles  (No.  120) ;  when 
poached  lay  them  on  a  cloth  to  drain,  put  them  into  tiie 
sauce ;  when  hot  dress  the  quenelles  in  the  centre ;  sauce 
over  and  serve. 

No.  887.  Cotelettes  de  Perdreauw  a  la  Dm  de  Charges. 

Prepare  and  dress  twelve  cotelettes  or  fillets  as  before, 
dress  them  on  a  dish  and  have  ready  the  following  sauce : 
have  fifty  scoops  of  turnips  the  size  of  small  marbles,  put 
them  in  a  stewpan,  with  an  ounce  of  butter  and  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  sugar,  pass  over  the  fire  five  minutes,  keep- 
ing them  moved,  then  add  a  pint  of  demi-glace  de  gibier 
(No.  61),  place  it  on  the  comer  of  the  stove,  let  sinuner, 
keeping  it  skimmed  till  the  turnips  are  done,  finish  with  a 
little  orange-juice,  sauce  in  the  centre,  glaze  the  cotelettes 
and  serve. 


ENTREES.  377 

No.  888.  Ilpifframme  de  Perdreaux  a  V essence  de  Gibier. 

Fillet  six  young  partridges,  lard  six  of  the  fillets,  and 
braise  them  as  for  filets  de  faisans  a  la  Brabant  (No.  867), 
place  the  other  six  in  a  saute-pan  well  buttered,  season  with 
a  little  pepper,  salt,  and  lemon-juice,  saut6  them  gently  over 
a  moderate  fire,  make  a  thin  border  of  mashed  potatoes  on 
your  dish,  dress  the  six  larded  fillets  first,  then  the  six  plain 
ones  to  form  a  crown ;  glaze  nicely,  sauce  over  with  a  demi- 
glace  de  gibier  and  serve  (see  Sauce,  No.  61). 

No.  889.  Epigramme  de  Perdreaux  auaa  cAampigmons. 

Proceed  exactly  as  in  the  last,  merely  adding  thirty  heads 
of  blanched  mushrooms  to  the  sauce  and  a  UtUe  sugar. 

No.  890.  Ik^rdan  des  Filets  de  Perdreaux  a  la  Perigord. 

Fillet  three  young  patridges,  make  likewise  half  a  pound 
of  forcemeat  fi^m  the  legs  as  directed  (No.  128),  fi-om 
which  make  six  quenelles  with  two  tablespoons  (No.  831) ; 
saute  your  fillets  as  in  the  last,  plain,  then  poach  your 
quenelles,  make  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes  on  your  dish, 
and  dress  the  fiUets  in  crown,  alternately  with  the  que- 
nelles, put  three  parts  of  a  pint  of  demi-glace  de  gibier 
(No.  61)  in  a  stewpan,  reduce  it  a  third,  add  four  large 
French  truffles  chopped  very  fibie,  with  a  Uttle  sugar,  sauce 
over  and  serve. 

No.  891.  Turban  de  Quenelles  de  Perdreatuc  a  la  Bern. 

Make  a  pound  of  forcemeat  from  the  flesh  of  one  or  two 
partridges  as  directed  (No.  128),  and  with  two  tablespoons 
make  twelve  large  quenelles,  poach  them  in  white  stock 
(see  quenelles  de  volaille.  No.  831)  and  lay  them  on  a  clean 
doth  to  drain  a  moment,  make  a  border  of  mashed  po- 
tatoes on  your  dish,  upon  which  dress  the  quenelles  in 


378  ENTREES. 

crown,  then  put  a  pint  of  the  sauce  veloute  de  gibier 
(No.  58)  in  a  stewpan,  with  half  the  quantity  of  white 
stock,  reduce  till  it  adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  tiien 
add  a  tablespoonfiil  of  whipped  cream,  sauce  over,  sprinkle 
a  few  pistachios  chopped  very  fine  upon  the  top  of  each 
quenelle  and  serve. 

No.  892.  FUets  de  Canetona  Sauoage  a  V essence. 

Wild  ducks  are  best  after  frosty  weather,  the  middling- 
sized  ones  are  the  best  for  entrees. 

Roast  four  young  ones  underdone  well  wrapped  up  in 
vegetables,  when  done  cut  the  fillets  out  neatly,  and  dress 
them  in  crown  on  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes,  have  pre- 
pared the  following  sauce:  put  a  spoonful  of  chopp^ 
eschalots  in  a  stewpan  with  a  glass  of  port  wine,  the  back- 
bones of  two  of  the  ducks  and  a  piece  of  glaze  the  size  of  a 
walnut,  boil  two  minutes,  then  add  a  pint  of  brown  sauoe 
(No.  1)  and  ten  spoonfuls  of  consomme,  simmer  a  few  mi- 
nutes, take  out  the  bones,  skim,  reduce  it  fast  till  it  ad- 
heres to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  pass  it  through  a  tammie 
into  another  stewpan,  add  a  little  cayenne  pepper  and 
lemon-juice,  when  hot  sauce  over  and  serve. 

No.  893.  Filets  de  Canetons  Sauvage  a  la  Syrienne. 

Prepare  six  fillets  from  three  wild  ducks  as  in  the  last, 
have  six  croutons  of  fried  bread  (or  scippets),  chop  the 
livers  of  the  ducks  up  very  fine,  mix  with  a  little  chopped 
parsley,  pepper,  salt,  and  a  small  pat  of  butter,  spread  some 
upon  each  of  the  croutons,  thicker  in  the  middle  than  at 
the  sides ;  set  them  ten  minutes  in  a  warm  oven  and  sala- 
mander, dress  them  alternately  with  the  fillets  upon  a  bor- 
der of  mashed  potatoes  in  crown,  sauce  the  same  as  in  the 
last,  with  the  addition  of  twenty  mild  stoned  olives  just  be- 
fore serving. 


KNTREKS.  379 

No.  894.  FUets  de  Canetans  Stmoage  aujus  d^ orange. 

Cook  and  fillet  four  wild  ducks  as  in  the  last,  dress  upon 
your  dish  and  put  them  into  the  hot  closet  to  keep  hot 
with  a  cover  over  them ;  chop  up  the  legs  and  back  very 
fine  and  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  a  glass  of  sherry  and 
a  bunch  of  parsley,  boil  five  minutes,  then  add  a  pint  of 
consommee,  boil  ten  minutes,  skim  and  pass  through  a 
cloth  into  another  stewpan,  reduce  to  half  glaze,  then  add 
ten  tablespoonfuls  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1),  a  Utile  sugar, 
and  half  the  yellow  rind  of  a  large  orange,  cut  in  fine 
strips  and  blanch  five  minutes,  boil  altogether  a  few  mi- 
nutes, finish  with  a  teaspoonful  of  juice  fix)m  the  orange, 
sauce  over  and  serve. 

No.  895.  FileU  de  Canetons  Sauvage  aufumee  de  Gidier. 

Cook  and  fillet  four  wild  ducks  as  before,  dress  them  in 
crown  on  your  dish  and  serve  with  a  sauce  fumee  de 
gibier  over,  made  from  the  legs  and  bones  of  the  ducks  as 
described  (No.  60). 

No.  896.  Salmi  de  Canetons  Sauvage  aux  truffea. 

Proceed  exactly  as  for  salmi  de  grouse  (No.  876),  only 
cutting  up  two  wild  ducks  in  neat  pieces  instead  of  the 
grouse,  but  the  wild  ducks  require  to  be  more  underdone. 

No.  897.  FUete  de  Canetons  Sauvage  a  la  puree  de  Grouse. 

Bx>ast  and  fillet  four  wild  ducks  as  before,  dress  them  in 
crown,  and  serve  with  a  sauce  a  la  puree  de  grouse  (No.  69) 
over. 

Widgeons  are  rather  smaller  than  the  wild  ducks,  but 
are  dressed  exactly  the  same ;  care  should  be  taken  in  roast- 
ing any  kind  of  water-fowl  that  it  should  be  rather  under- 
done, and  if  there  is  a  necessity  for  warming  them  in  sauce 


380  ENTREES. 

when  cut  up  for  entrees,  care  should  be  taken  that  they  do 
not  boil  in  it,  for  it  would  give  the  sauce  a  greasy  ap- 
pearance, and  cause  the  fillets  to  eat  tough  and  altogether 
very  unpalatable. 

No.  898.  Turban  de  FUeU  de  So/rcellea  a  la  Mademe. 

Teal  are  much  smaller  than  dther  of  the  two  last,  but  of 
the  same  species,  though  more  deUcate  and  exodlent  for 
entrees. 

Roast  eight  teal  twenty  minutes  in  vegetables,  cut  out 
the  fillets,  which  must  be  underdone  with  the  gravy  in 
them,  have  ready  half  a  pound  of  game  forcemeat  (No  123), 
when  cold  cover  each  of  the  fillets  very  thinly  with  it,  dress 
them  in  crown  upon  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes,  set  them 
in  a  very  hot  oven  for  ten  minutes  till  the  forcemeat  is 
cooked,  sauce  over  with  a  sauce  fomee  de  gibier  (Na  60) 
and  serve. 

No.  899.  Turban  de  Sarcelles  a  la  Toulouse. 

Roast  and  fillet  eight  teal  as  in  the  last,  dress  them  on 
a  border  of  mashed  potatoes,  then  put  eight  spoonfuls  of 
game  sauce  (No.  60),  eight  of  consomme,  and  eight  of  to- 
mata'  sauce  (No.  87)  in  a  stewpan,  boil  them  togellier  a  few 
minutes,  add  twenty  pickled  mushrooms,  sauce  over  and 
serve. 

No.  900.  Sarcelles  aujus  d^ orange. 

Roast  six  teal  as  before,  cut  them  in  halves,  chop  off  the 
pinions  of  the  wings,  beat  them  a  Uttle  and  dress  in  crown, 
sauce  over  with  au  jus  d'orange  (No.  17)  and  serve. 

Teal  may  be  dressed  in  any  way  as  directed  for  the  wild 
ducks. 


SKTRSES.  381 


No.  901.  SarceUea  a  la  Bateliere. 

Bone  four  teal  by  cutting  the .  skin  through  down  the 
back,  separating  the  skin  on  each  side  of  it  until  you  have 
cleared  it,  lay  the  bird  open,  take  out  the  back-bone,  and 
with  a  knife  you  will  find  no  difficulty  in  taking  out  all  the 
rest ;  half  fill  them  with  forcemeat  (No.  120)  and  sew  them 
up  with  packthread,  then  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with 
three  glasses  of  sherry,  a  pint  of  white  stock,  half  a  pound 
of  lean  uncooked  ham,  two  onions,  one  head  of  celery,  a 
bunch  of  parsley,  a  little  carrot,  turnip,  two  cloves,  and  a 
blade  of  mace ;  put  the  cover  on  the  stewpan  and  place  it 
in  a  moderate  oven  for  an  hour,  try  with  a  larding-needle, 
and  if  tender  they  are  done ;  lay  them  on  a  cloth  to  drain, 
niake  three  croutons  of  bread  each  in  the  shape  of  a  cocks- 
comb, but  a  great  deal  thicker  and  larger,  put  three  of  the 
teal  at  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  and  stand  a  crouton  (nicely 
Med)  between  each  to  form  six  points,  place  the  remaming 
teal  upon  the  top,  and  have  ready  the  following  sauce : 
strain  the  stock  the  teal  was  cooked  in  through  a  cloth  into 
another  stewpan,  skim  off  all  the  fat,  add  half  a  pint  of 
white  sauce  (No.  7),  reduce  it  till  it  adheres  to  the  back  of 
the  spoon,  add  a  Uttle  cream  sauce  over  and  serve. 

No.  902.  Sarcelles  a  la  macedoine  de  legumes. 

Roast  four  teal  in  vegetables,  cut  them  in  halves,  dress 
in  crown  on  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes,  and  serve 
with  a  white  sauce  macedoine  de  legumes  (No.  98)  in  the 
centre. 

No.  903.  Sarcelles  a  la  puree  de  champignons. 

Proceed  as  in  the  last,  but  serve  with  a  puree  of  mush- 
rooms (No.  54)  in  the  centre. 


382  KNTREE8. 


No.  904.  Filets  de  Becawes  a  la  LucuUus. 

Roast  six  woodcocks  underdone,  take  the  fillets  out  care- 
fully, have  ready  half  a  pound  of  very  white  forcemeat  of 
chicken  (No.  122),  cover  each  fillet  all  over  about  the  eighth 
of  an  inch  in  thickness,  egg  them  over  when  done  and 
place  them  in  a  buttered  saute-pan,  cover  them  with  white 
stock,  and  simmer  ten  minutes,  drain  them  on  a  cloth  and 
dress  in  crown  upon  a  small  border  of  toasted  bread ;  you 
have  previously  pounded  all  the  flesh  firom  the  1^  with  the 
trail  in  a  mortar,  pass  through  a  sieve,  and  put  it  in  a  stew- 
pan  with  ten  spoonfuls  of  game  sauce  (No.  60)  made  from 
the  bones,  boil  until  thick,  keeping  it  stirred,  then  take  it 
off  the  fire  and  stir  in  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  very  quickly, 
stir  another  minute  over  the  fire  to  thicken,  and  dress  in 
the  middle  of  the  dish  as  high  as  possible,  sauce  over  with 
a  demi-glace  de  gibier  (No.  61)  and  serve. 

No.  905.  FUeta  de  Becasses  a  la  Talleyrand. 

Boast  four  woodcocks,  fillet  them,  cover  each  fillet  with 
forcemeat  as  in  the  last,  poach  them  the  same,  have  eight  crou- 
tons of  bread  the  same  size  as  the  fillets,  and  the  thickness 
of  a  five-shilHng-piece,  pound  the  trails  from  the  woodcocks 
in  a  mortar,  season  them  lightly,  and  mix  them  with  the 
yolk  of  one  egg,  spread  it  upon  the  croutons  (which  you 
have  previously  Med),  give  them  the  shape  of  a  dome,  put 
them  ten  minutes  in  the  oven,  salamander  a  light  colour, 
make  a  thin  border  of  mashed  potatoes  on  your  dish,  dress 
the  fillets  half  way  round,  then  the  croutons,  put  a  pint  of 
game  sauce  (No.  60)  in  a  stewpan  with  six  spoonfuls  of 
consomme,  reduce  till  it  adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon, 
then  add  six  middling-sized  truffles  chopped  very  fine  with 
a  little  sugar,  sauce  over  and  serve. 


ENTREES.  S8S 

No.  906.  Filets  de  Becaases  a  V Imperial. 

Roast  five  woodcocks,  fillet  as  usual,  surround  each  fillet 
with  the  forcemeat,  and  poach  as  before,  dress  them  on  a 
small  border  of  mashed  potatoes,  and  place  a  fine  dressed 
cockscomb  warmed  in  a  little  stock  between  each,  sauce 
over  with  a  sauce  veloute  de  gibier  (No.  58)  and  serve. 

No.  907.  Turban  de  Becasaea  aux  champign<ma. 

Boast  five  woodcocks,  cut  them  in  halves,  and  dress 
them  in  crown,  breasts  upwards,  upon  a  border  of  mashed 
potatoes ;  put  a  {lint  of  demi-glace  de  gibier  (No.  61)  in  a 
stewpan,  reduce  it,  then  add  forty  very  fine  blanched  mush- 
rooms, with  two  spoonfuls  of  thin  liquor,  boil  two  minutes, 
then  add  a  little  salt,  sugar,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and 
two  pats  of  butter,  take  it  off  the  fire,  shake  it  round  till 
the  butter  is  melted,  sauce  over  and  serve. 

No.  908.  &almi  de  Becaaaea. 

Roast  three  woodcocks  underdone,  and  when  cold  cut 
them  into  neat  pieces,  that  is,  two  wings,  two  legs,  and  the 
breasts;  chop  the  trails  fix)m  the  interior  very  fine  and 
spread  them  upon  six  croutons  of  fried  bread  in  the  shape 
of  fillets,  place  them  in  the  oven  three  minutes,  and  sala- 
mander lightly ;  make  a  game  sauce  with  the  bones  as  di- 
rected (No.  60),  when  you  have  reduced  it  to  a  good  con- 
sistency, put  in  the  pieces  of  woodcocks,  cover  the  stewpan, 
stand  it  in  the  bain  marie  till  they  are  quite  hot,  then 
build  them  up  as  high  as  possible  on  your  dish,  dress  the 
croutons  round,  sauce  over  and  serve ;  truffles  or  mushrooms 
may  be  added  t6  the  sauce. 

No.  909.  Salmi  de  Becaaaea  a  la  Joinville. 
Roast  two  woodcocks  underdone,  cut  them  up  and  pro- 


884  BNTRKBS. 

ceed  exactly  as  in  the  last,  make  ten  quenelles  de  gibier 
(No.  123),  poach  them,  lay  them  on  a  cloth  to  dram,  egg 
over  with  a  paste-brush,  and  roll  them  in  chopped  ham  and 
truffles,  place  them  in  a  dish,  which  put  in  the  hot  doset 
with  the  cover  over  for  half  an  hour,  then  put  a  border  of 
mashed  potatoes  upon  your  dish,  dress  the  quenelles  in 
crown  with  the  woodcocks  in  the  centre  and  over,  as  ele- 
vated as  possible,  sauce  over  with  a  demi-glace  de  gibier, 
dress  the  croutons  round  and  serve. 

No.  910.  Entree  de  Becasses  a  la  Comtesse. 

Roast  your  woodcocks  in  vegetables,  separate  the  breasts 
from  the  legs,  take  off  the  flesh  from  the  legs  and  pound  it 
in  a  mortar  with  the  trails,  make  a  puree  as  for  the  filets  a 
la  Lucullus,  then  have  ready  a  croustade  of  bread  two  inches 
high,  rather  oval,  and  fluted  round,  not  too  large  for  the 
dish,  make  an  incision  round  the  top  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
from  the  edge,  fry  a  nice  colour,  scoop  out  the  top,  place 
it  on  your  dish,  pour  in  the  pur6e;  you  have  kept  the 
breasts  hot  in  a  stewpan  in  the  bain  marie>  dress  them  over 
the  puree  with  the  points  to  meet  in  the  centre,  place  two 
fine  dressed  cockscombs  warmed  in  the  sauce  between  each 
breast,  and  a  quenelle  upon  the  top,  sauce  over  with  a  demi- 
glace  de  gibier  (No.  61)  and  serve. 

No.  911.  Becaases  a  la  Perigord. 

Boast  three  woodcocks  nicely  before  a  sharp  fire,  put  a 
piece  of  toasted  bread  under  them  whilst  roasting  to  catch 
the  trails,  when  done  cut  the  toast  into  three  pieces,  dia- 
mond shapes,  place  them  in  your  dish  and  place  the 
woodcocks  upon  them,  their  tails  to  meet  in  the  centre 
of  the  dish,  sauce  over  as  for  filets  a  la  Talleyrand  (No.  905) 
and  serve. 


ENTRE88.  S86 


No.  912.  JBecasses  a  f  essence. 

Roast  dune  woodcocks  as  in  the  last,  dish  them  the  same, 
and  serve  with  a  sauce  a  Tessoice  made  from  some  Ixmes 
or  remains  of  woodcock,  as  directed  (No.  60). 

No.  918.  Becasses  a  la  Mnanciere, 

IVoceed  precisely  as  in  the  last,  but  adding  ten  blandbied 
mushrooms,  ten  fine  dressed  ooi.kscombs,  ten  small  quenelles 
(No.  128)  of  game,  and  as  many  slices  of  truffles  to  the 
sauce. 

No.  914.  Becassea  a  la  puree. 

Roast  three  woodcocks  as  before,  having  previously  roast- 
ed one,  with  which  make  a  puree  as  directed  (No.  69),  sauce 
round  and  serve. 

916.  Skipes  or  Becassines. 

Snipes  may  be  dressed  in  any  way  as  directed  for  the 
woodcocks,  but  being  much  smaller  you  cut  them  in  halves 
instead  of  filleting  them,  dress  round  to  form  a  crown,  only 
you  require  more  of  them. 

No.  916.  Plovers. 

Plovers,  like  other  game,  require  to  be  kept  a  short  time 
before  they  are  cooked ;  they  are  dressed  similar  to  wood- 
cocks, although  not  quite  so  recherche ;  when  well  dressed 
they  are  very  delicious. 

No.  917.  Filets  de  JPluviers  a  la  Marie  Antoinette. 

Roast  eight  plovers  well  wrapped  up  in  thin  slices  of 
baoon^  and  tied  up  in  paper ;  when  done  leave  them  to  get 
cold  in  the  bacon,  then  cut  out  the  fillets  as  for  woodcocksi 

26 


386  ENTREBS. 

and  stick  the  pilon  of  the  leg  at  the  point  of  each  fillet ;  let 
a  piece  of  the  bacon  remain  over  each  fillet,  egg  and  bread- 
crumb twice  over,  and  firy  them  a  nice  colour  in  salad  oil ; 
chop  up  the  legs,  bones,  and  trimmings  of  the  birds,  and 
put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  a  glass  of  sherry,  an  onion  in 
slices,  and  a  little  raw  ham  minced ;  place  it  on  the  fire 
a  couple  of  minutes,  then  add  a  pint  and  a  half  of  good 
white  stock ;  place  it  again  on  the  fire,  and  let  it  simmer 
half  an  hour,  skim,  and  pass  it  through  a  doth  into  another 
stewpan,  reduce  to  a  thin  glaze,  then  mix  a  little  anow-root 
with  three  spoonfuls  of  white  stock  and  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon,  pour  it  into  the  sauce,  keeping  it  stirred  till  boiling, 
dress  the  fillets  in  crown  on  a  circle  of  mashed  potatoes, 
sauce  round,  and  serve  very  hot  and  crisp. 

No.  918.  Filets  de  Plumers  aux  truffes. 

Proceed  with  the  fillets  exactly  as  in  the  last,  make  ten 
croutons  of  bread,  upon  which  put  the  trail,  see  woodcocks 
(No.  905),  dress  the  fillets  round  alternately  with  the  crou- 
tons, put  a  pint  and  a  half  of  demi-glace  de  gibier  (No.  61), 
and  a  gill  of  consomme  in  a  stewpan,  reduce  to  half,  then 
add  six  middling-sized  truffles  in  sUces,  and  a  little  sugar, 
sauce  over  and  serve. 

No.  919.  Filets  de  Pluviers  auw  chamitiffnxms. 

Proceed  exactly  as  in  the  last,  only  using  mushrooms 
instead  of  truffles. 

No.  920.  Fillets  de  Pluviers  a  la  Bepence. 

Roast  three  plovers  in  bacon  as  before,  and  when  done 
have  three  larded  lambs*  sweetbreads  nicely  cooked,  dress 
them  alternately  on  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes  in  a  ring, 
put  half  a  pint  of  demi-glace  de  gibier  (No.  61)  in  a  stew- 
pan, boil  it  a  minute,  then  add  twelve  stoned  French  olives. 


I 


ENTREES*  887 

season  with  a  little  sugar,  sauce  in  the  centre,  glaze  the 
sweetbreads,  and  serve. 

No.  921.  Pate  clumd  des  Pluviers. 

Make  a  paste  as  directed  for  pate  chaud,  see  Flancs 
(No.  618),  build  up  a  crust  with  the  hand  or  in  a  small 
round  mould  to  match  your  dish,  then  fillet  twelve  plovers, 
season  them  with  a  little  pepper,  salt,  and  chopped  eschalots, 
cut  some  thin  slices  of  fat  bacon,  with  which  line  the  inte- 
rior of  your  crust,  which  has  stood  a  good  hour  after  build- 
ing to  get  firm,  lay  the  fillets  round,  placing  a  thin  sUce  of 
fat  bacon  between  each ;  the  pate  must  not  be  more  than 
three  inches  in  height  when  filled ;  add  four  spoonfuls  of 
game  sauce,  and  a  few  raw  mushrooms,  cover  with  a  thin 
sheet  of  the  paste,  and  ornament  the  exterior  to  your  fancy, 
forming  a  Ud  wilh  a  round  piece  of  puff  paste  (No.  1132) ; 
bake  it  an  hour  and  a  half  in  a  moderate  oven,  take  off  the 
hd  and  as  much  fat  as  possible  fix>m  the  top,  add  half  a 
pint  of  game  sauce  (No.  60)  quite  hot,  and  serve  either 
with  or  vrithout  the  lid. 

No.  922.  Quails. 

The  chmate  of  this  country  is  far  from  being  advantageous 
for  these  deUcate  birds,  which  migrate  even  from  France  at 
the  end  of  the  autumn ;  the  quails  in  this  country  must  be 
fed  in  confinement  to  fatten,  before  they  are  fit  to  be  eaten, 
which  destroys  much  of  that  beautiful  flavour  they  possess 
in  France,  where  they  feed  in  their  native  vineyards. 

No.  928.  CaHles  en  macedoine  de  Ugunie%  anxfeuUles  de  mgnes. 

Truss  eight  quails,  fold  each  one  up  in  a  vine-leaf,  and 
then  in  a  thin  slice  of  bacon,  run  a  skewer  through  them 
sideways,  which  tie  upon  the  spit ;  then  have  some  vege- 
tables of  all  kinds,  cut  up  in  thin  slices,  which  moisten  with 


388  KNTRERS. 

a  little  oil,  have  then  some  sheets  of  paper,  upon  which  laj 
the  vegetables,  lay  the  quails  on  the  spit  over  them,  breasts 
downwards,  cover  well  with  the  vegetables,  fold  the  paper 
round,  and  tie  them  up ;  roast  from  twenty-five  to  thirty 
minutes  before  a  sharp  fire ;  you  have  prepared  a  border  of 
vegetables  as  for  Chartreuse  (No.  604),  but  not  to  stand 
more  than  two  inches  in  height ;  fill  it  with  stewed  cabbage 
and  boiled  French  beans,  turn  it  out  on  your  dish,  and  dress 
Idle  quails  upon  it,  their  tails  towards  the  centre  and  their 
bieasts  outside;  make  a  pyramid  of  boiled  green  peas  on 
the  top,  and  serve  a  white  jardiniere  sauce  (No.  98)  round. 

No.  924.  CaiUrs  auw  petits  pois. 

Proceed  exactly  as  above  with  the  quails,  but  make  the 
stand  entirely  of  green  peas  nicely  boiled ;  have  ready  a 
pint  of  stewed  peas  (No.  1077)  with  which  you  have  put 
the  quails  a  few  minutes^  fill  the  centre  with  tbem,  dress 
the  quails  round  as  above,  and  pour  the  remainder  of  the 
peas  in  the  dish. 

No.  925.  Turban  des  CaiUes  a  la  Financier e. 

Roast  eight  quails  in  vegetables,  but  without  the  vine- 
leaf  and  bacon,  make  a  border  of  forcemeat  as  for  ris  de 
veau  a  la  Turque  (No.  673),  stand  it  in  your  dish,  then 
make  a  ragout  financiere  (No.  50),  but  using  game  sauce 
instead  of  brown  sauce ;  put  your  quails  five  minutes  in  the 
safioe,  then  dress  them  round  on  the  border  of  forcemeat ; 
garniture  in  liie  centre,  sauce  over,  and  serve. 

No.  926.  Twrhan  des  Cailles  auw  ooT^comifvs. 

Boast  seven  quails  as  before,  cut  each  one  in  halves 
lengthwise,  have  also  fourteen  pieces  of  cucumbers  the  same 
size,  stewed  as  No.  103,  dress  them  alternately  with  the 
halves  of  quails  upon  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes,  and 


KNTR££8.  389 

serve  with  a  sauce  a  la  puree  de  concombres  (No.  105) 
in  the  centre. 

No.  927.  Turban  de  Cailles  a  la  puree  de  truffes. 

Proceed  as  above,  using  ten  quails  instead  of  seven,  and 
serving  with  a  puree  de  truffes  (No.  58),  omit  the  cucumbers. 

No.  928.  Quails  for  Fol-au-venta,  or  Pdt4  chaud. 

Boast  and  cut  them  in  halves  if  for  vol-au-vents,  put 
them  in  a  white  financiere  sauce  (No.  50),  but  if  for 
pates  chaiids,  in  a  brown  financiere  twenty  minutes  before 
serving. 

No.  929.   Cotelettee  dea  Pigeonneaux  a  la  Parisienne. 

Procure  six  large  pigeons,  fillet  and  form  them  into  cote- 
lettes  (see  cotelettes  de  perdreaux,  No.  885),  stuff  with  a 
Uttle  forcemeat  of  fowl,  egg  and  bread-crumb  them,  and  fry 
a  light  yellow  eolour  in  oil;  fiy  also  twelve  croutons  of 
bread  the  siae  and  shape  of  the  cotelettes,  and  dress  them 
alternately  upon  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes,  to  form  a 
crown ;  sauce  with  a  puree  de  concombres  (No.  105)  made 
brown  instead  of  white,  and  serve,  glazing  the  cotelettes 
hghtly. 

No.  930.  Cotelettes  des  Pigeonneauw  a  la  Financiere. 

Proceed  as  in  the  last,  only  serving  vrith  a  ragout  a  la 
financiere  (No.  50)  instead  of  the  puree. 

No.  931.  Cotelettes  des  PiyeonneoMx  auxjpois  verts. 

Proceed  as  before,  and  serve  with  a  pint  of  green  peas, 
prepared  as  for  cotelettes  de  mouton  aux  pois  (No.  713). 
Th^  may  also  be  served  with  a  sauce  aux  truffes  (No.  51), 
ItaUenne  (No.  80),  jardiniere  (No.  100),  or  sauce  piquante 
(No.  27). 


S90  KNTRKBS. 


No.  982.   Cotelettes  des  Figeonneaux  a  la  Suliman. 

Prepare  the  cotelettes  as  usual,  season  them  well  with 
chopped  parsley,  do.  eschalots,  and  a  Uttle  pepper  and  salt ; 
procure  a  pig's  caul,  cut  into  twelve  pieces,  in  each  of  which 
fold  a  cotelette,  place  them  in  a  saute-pan,  and  firy  them  in 
oil  a  nice  colour,  but  rather  underdone ;  dress  on  a  border 
of  plain  boiled  rice,  which  you  have  made  hot  and  seasoned 
with  a  Uttle  salt  and  pepper,  and  moistened  with  a  piece  of 
butter ;  serve  very  hot  with  a  sauce  a  I'lndienne  (No.  45) 
in  the  centre. 

No.  933.  Turban  of  Larka  a  la  Pariaienne. 

Larks  when  in  good  order  and  fat  are  excellent  for 
entrees.  Bone  eighteen  fine  ones  with  a  penknife,  lay  a 
little  forcemeat  of  game  (No.  123),  in  the  interior  of  each, 
with  a  few  fillets  of  truffles,  sew  them  with  packthread, 
giving  them  their  first  shape  as  near  as  possible ;  cover  the 
bottom  of  a  stewpan  with  thin  sUces  of  fat  bacon,  then  lay 
in  the  larks,  which  again  cover  with  sheets  of  fat  bacon ; 
add  a  few  vegetables  of  each  sort  in  shces,  with  a  bunch  of 
parsley,  two  glasses  of  Madeira  wine,  and  half  a  pint  of 
consomme ;  cover  the  stewpan,  and  place  it  in  a  moderate 
oven ;  when  the  birds  feel  tender  they  are  done ;  take  them 
out,  and  lay  them  on  a  dish ;  lay  another  dish  over,  and 
press  them  lightly  till  cold ;  pass  the  stock  they  were  cooked 
in  through  a  cloth  into  a  stewpan,  and  skim  off  all  the  fat ; 
use  it  with  the  bones  of  the  larks  to  make  a  sauce  (No.  60) ; 
when  the  sauce  is  of  a  proper  consistence,  add  twenty  small 
(juenelles  (No.  120),  put  it  in  the  bain-marie  to  keep  hot, 
pull  all  the  packthread  from  the  larks,  and  put  them  in 
a  stewpan  with  a  little  consomme,  warm  them  gently, 
have  ready  a  border  of  forcemeat  as  for  turban  de  cailles 


EN'|}Rir.1£S.  391 

(No.  925),  dress  the  larks  in  crown  upon  it,  garniture  in 
the  centre,  sauce  over,  and  serve. 

No.  934.  Turban  of  Larks  aum  fines  herbes. 

Proceed  with  the  larks  as  in  the  last,  dress  them  on  a 
border  of  forcemeat,  and  make  the  sauce  the  same ;  put  a 
tablespoonftil  of  chopped  onions  in  a  stewpan,  with  half  a 
one  of  oil,  fry  a  light  yellow  colour,  keeping  them  stirred ; 
add  one  of  parsley  and  two  of  chopped  mushrooms,  with 
which  mix  a  quarter  of  one  of  flour,  and  twelve  of  the 
sauce ;  stir  it  over  the  fire  twenty  minutes,  season  with  a 
little  pe{^r,  salt,  and  nutmeg,  take  it  off  the  fii*e,  and  stir 
in  the  yolk  of  an  egg  very  quickly ;  pour  all  over  the  larks, 
let  them  get  cold,  egg  and  bread-crmnb  over,  and  place 
them  twenty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven,  salamander  a 
nice  colour  and  sauce  as  in  the  last,  omitting  the  quenelles, 
and  pouring  round  instead  of  over ;  serve  very  hot. 

No.  935.  Turban  of  Larks  aux  qttenelles. 

Prepare  eight  larks  as  for  a  la  Parisienne ;  have  also  pre- 
pared eight  quenelles  de  gibier  (No.  123)  of  the  same  size 
as  the  larks,  dress  them  alternately  upon  a  border  of  mashed 
potatoes,  and  serve  with  a  sauce  au  fumee  de  gibier  (No.  60) 
over. 

No.  936.  Pate  Chaud  de  Mauviettes. 

Prepare  a  crust  as  for  the  pate  chaud  de  pluviers,  bone 
twenty-four  larks,  stuff  them  with  forcemeat,  but  do  not 
sew  them,  fold  a  sUce  of  fat  bacon  round  each,  fill  your 
pate,  and  proceed  exactly  as  in  No.  623. 

No;  937.  Pate  Chaud  de  Mauviettes  ^ratine. 

Proceed  as  above,  but  when  you  have  filled  the  pate  have 
half  a  pound  of  forcemeat  (No.  120),  with  which  mix  some 


392  BNTB1IE8. 

cheeped  eschalots,  do.  panley,  and  do.  mudiiooins ;  cover 
all  over  the  larks,  and  again  cover  that  with  alioes  of  fat 
bacon;  bake  an  hour  and  a  half;  when  done  take  off  the 
hd,  and  the  fat  bacon,  salamander  the  forcemeat  a  nice 
brown,  and  serve  with  some  clear  strong  consomme  (in 
which  you  have  boiled  the  bones  of  the  larks  reduced  to  a 
demi-glaze),  poured  over. 

No.  938.   Vbl-au-vent  de  Mauviettes, 

Bone  twelve  or  ei^teen  larks  according  to  the  size  of 
your  vdUau-vent,  which  you  have  previously  made  (see 
No.  1137),  stuff  th^n  Ughtly,  place  a  Ic^-bone  in  the 
breast  of  each,  and  form  them  in  the  shape  of  a  pear  \  place 
them  in  a  stewpan  covered  with  slices  of  fat  bacon,  add  a 
glass  of  sherry,  with  a  httle  stock  and  a  few  vegetables,  stew 
them  gently  one  hour,  then  in  another  stewpan  have  a  pint 
of  sauce  veloute  de  gibier  made  as  du^t^d  (No.  58)  fix>m 
the  bones  of  the  larks;  take  the  larks  out  of  the  braise,  drain 
them  on  a  cloth,  then  put  them  into  the  sauce,  with  ten 
blanched  mushrooms;  when  hot  fill  the  vol-au-vent,  and 
serve  directly. 


398 


OF  THE  BOASTS  FOR  8B0OND  ODURSB. 


Iif  London  the  poultry  and  game  are  sent  in  so  nicely 
prepared  for  cooking  that  any  remark  upon  the  method  of 
killing,  phicking,  and  drawing  them  would  appear  ahnost 
unnecessaiy,  but  remembering  the  manner  that  I  have  seen 
poultry  and  game  mutilated  in  some  parts  of  the  country^  I 
have  been  induced  to  give  the  following  simple  directions. 

The  best  way  of  killing  poultry  is  to  take  the  bird  by 
the  neck,  placing  the  thmnb  of  the  right  hand  just  at  the 
back  of  the  head,  closing  the  head  in  your  hand,  yomr 
left  hand  holding  the  bird,  then  press  your  thumb  down 
hard  and  pull  the  head  and  neck  contrariwise,  the  neck  will 
break  instantaneously,  and  the  bird  will  be  quite  dead  in 
a  few  seconds,  when  hang  it  a  short  time  by  the  legs  for  the 
blood  to  flow  into  the  head,  which  renders  the  flesh  much 
whiter.  In  IVance  we  usually  kill  them  by  cutting  the 
throat  close  to  the  head;  both  methods  are  good  with 
regard  to  the  whiteness  of  the  flesh,  but  I  prefer  the  Eng- 
lish method,  not  being  so  barbarous. 

To  pluck  either  game  or  poultry  have  the  bird  upon  a 
board  vrith  its  head  towards  you,  and  pull  the  feathers 
away  from  you,  which  is  the  direction  they  lay  in ;  many 
persons  pull  out  the  feathers  in  a  contrary  direction,  by 
which  means  they  are  likely  to  tear  the  skin  to  pieces, 
which  would  very  much  disfigure  the  bird  for  the  table. 

To  draw  poultry  after  it  is  well  plucked,  cut  a  long  inci- 
sion at  the  back  of  the  neck,  cut  the  neck  bone  off  close  to 
the  body  of  the  bird,  but  leave  the  skin  a  good  length  over, 


394  ROASTS. 

then  take  out  the  thiu  skin  from  under  the  outer  with  the 
crop,  cut  an  incision  under  the  tail  just  large  enough  for 
the  gizzard  to  pass  through,  no  larger,  then  put  your  finger 
into  the  bird  at  the  breast  and  detach  all  the  intestines, 
squeeze  the  body  of  the  bird  and  force  out  the  whole  from 
the  incision  at  the  tail ;  it  is  then  ready  for  trussing,  the 
method  of  doing  which  will  be  given  in  the  various  receipts 
throughout  this  series.  The  above  method  of  ch^twing 
poultry  is  equally  applicable  to  game. 

To  make  a  gravy  for  roasts  well  butter  the  bottom  of  a 
convenient-sized  stewpan,  upon  which  lay  three  onions  in 
thick  slices,  over  which  lay  a  few  slices  of  lean  bacon  and 
three  pounds  of  lean  beef;  place  it  over  a  good  fire  and  add 
two  cloves  and  six  peppercorns,  with  a  few  sprigs  of  pars- 
ley ;  when  the  onions  begin  to  brown  stir  the  meat  round 
with  a  wooden  spoon,  keeping  the  onions  stiQ  at  the  bottom, 
stir  occasionally  untU  the  onions  are  well  browned  but  not 
burnt,  then  fill  up  with  two  quarts  of  water  and  half  an 
oimce  of  salt ;  when  boiling  place  it  at  the  comer  of  the 
fire,  skim  and  let  it  simmer  an  hour,  skim  again,  pass  it 
through  a  cloth  into  a  basin  and  use  when  required. 

The  simplicity  of  roasting  is  so  generally  known  by  all 
classes  of  cooks  that  but  very  little  attention  is  often  paid 
to  it ;  the  simplicity  of  the  arrangement  for  roasting  being 
such  as  with  many  to  leave  it  to  attend  to  itself;  but  I 
shall  here  in  a  very  few  words  show  my  readers  the  facility 
of  roasting  weU  and  with  little  trouble,  which  I  consider 
of  the  greatest  importance,  especially  in  a  dinner-party 
where,  after  the  entrees  have  been  well  degusted,  nothing 
refreshes  the  palate  or  disposes  it  better  for  the  second 
course  than  a  fillet  or  cut  from  the  fillet  of  a  well-roasted 
capon,  chicken,  or  some  description  of  game,  but  if  badly 
roasted  it  would  lose  its  effect. 

In  roasting  much  depends  upon  the  fire  which  requires 


BOASTS.  395 

to  be  solid  and  to  throw  out  a  great  heat,  as  it  is  always 
easy  to  keep  anything  a  good  distance  from  it,  but  a  bad 
fire  would  be  the  destruction  of  anything  placed  before  it, 
for  if  you  had  a  couple  of  good  fowls  or  a  brace  of  birds, 
and  were  to  put  one  down  before  a  slow  fire  and  the  other 
before  a  brisk,  you  would  be  so  astonished  at  the  difference 
in  flavour  that  did  you  not  know  different  you  would  declare 
that  one  was  of  an  inferior  quality ;  I  am  also  very  much 
against  the  improper  manner  of  basting,  which  would  give 
any  birds  or  poultry  the  appearance  of  having  been  first 
roasted  and  afterwards  stewed ;  I  have  never  during  the 
last  six  years  suffered  any  bird  to  be  basted  in  my  kitchen 
with  the  exception  of  rubbing  a  piece  of  butter  over  the 
breast  of  poultry  or  game  as  soon  as  the  skin  becomes  set ; 
any  kind  of  game  or  poultry  is  done  when  you  perceive  a 
great  smoke  arising  fi*om  it,  and  if  not  taken  up  inune- 
diately  you  lose  the  flavour  and  the  bird  its  appearance, 
for  instead  of  going  to  table  nice  and  plump  it  will  present 
a  mean  and  shrivelled  object,  loudly  bespeaking  the  cook's 
inattention,  unless  it  has  been  kept  in  a  screen  or  hot  closet, 
by  the  party  having  kept  the  dinner  waiting. 

By  following  the  above  simple  method  great  benefit  will 
be  derived  in  this  simple  branch  of  the  art,  but  the  most 
universally  useful,  for  I  think  we  may  say  veithout  hesita- 
tion that  near  two  thirds  of  our  animal  and  volatile  food  is 
daily  roasted,  which  has  made  me  so  desirous  of  impressing 
the  necessity  of  attention,  which  is  all  that  is  required  to  roast 

well. 

No.  939.  Boast  Turkey  cm  Creason. 

For  second  course  a  turkey  should  be  very  small  and 
well  trussed,  the  breast  thrown  out,  the  sinews  of  the  legs 
cut  and  the  feet  chopped  off,  run  a  skewer  through  the 
pinion  of  the  right  wing,  passing  it  beneath  the  thigh-bones 
and  through  the  pinion  of  the  left  wing,  run  your  spit 


S96  ROASTS. 

tliroagfa  the  body,  passing  it  between  the  skewer  and  the 
back-bone,  and  tie  the  legs  upon  a  rest  (made  by  folding  a 
thick  piece  of  carrot  about  two  inches  long  and  one  broad  in 
buttered  paper)  upon  the  spit  to  keep  the  legs  upon  a  level 
with  the  thighs ;  have  a  good  clear  fire,  put  down  the  turkey 
at  a  short  distance  from  it,  five  minutes  after  it  is  down  rub 
it  over  the  breast  a  minute  with  a  piece  of  butter  whidi 
being  hard  and  ocAd  you  have  pressed  into  a  large  wooden 
spoon,  (made  with  a  veiy  long  handle,  by  which  means  you 
can  rub  it  over  the  bird  whilst  turning  without  approadiing 
too  near  the  fire,)  about  a-quart^  of  a  pound  would  be 
sufficient  for  six  or  eight ;  then  place  it  a  little  farther  back, 
(according  to  the  heat  and  size  of  your  fire,)  the  butter  will 
form  a  froth  over  it ;  if  the  skin  should  blister  you  must 
put  it  still  further  from  the  fire,  keep  it  of  a  nice  gold 
colour,  and  when  done  serve  with  gravy  in  the  dish  and 
garnish  with  nice  fresh  water-cresses. 

A  turkey  weighing  five  pounds  will  require  about  three 
quarters  of  an  hour  to  roast,  and  so  on  in  proportion,  but 
one  of  that  size  is  quite  large  enough  for  a  roast  second 
course ;  but  if  before  a  small  fire  an  hour  and  a  quarter,  or 
if  a  larger  turkey  an  hour  and  twenty  minutes. 

No.  940.  Ikriey  Barded. 

Truss  a  turkey  as  described  in  the  last,  have  a  square 
piece  of  fat  bacon  the  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness  and 
laj^  enough  to  cover  the  breast,  upon  which  tie  it  with  pack- 
thread ;  roast  and  serve  as  in  the  last,  taking  away  the  pack- 
thread but  leaving  the  bacon ;  it  will  require  a  little  longer 
to  roast  as  the  bacon  prevents  the  fillets  from  being  done  so 

soon. 

No.  94 1 .  Turkeij  Larded. 

Lard  the  breast  of  a  young  turkey  as  you  would  a  noix 
de  veau  (No.  565),  (only  cut  the  bacon  finer),  to  facilitate 


ROASTS.  397 

the  larding,  dip  the  breast  in  a  stewpan  of  boihng  water,  or 
pass  it  a  minute  over  the  flame  of  a  charcoal  Are  to  set  the 
skin  to  the  fleshy  place  it  down  to  roast  but  do  not  butter  it 
over  the  larded  part ;  serve  with  gravy  and  water-cresses  in 
a  dish  as  bdfore. 

•  No.  942.  Dindonneau  truffe  a  la  Perigord, 

This  dish  is  sometimes  served  as  a  roast  in  the  second 
course,  but  very  seldom  in  this  country.  Ftoceed  exactly 
as  for  the  r^nove  (No.  524),  but  dioose  a  veiy  small  tur- 
key, for  what  would  look  noble  in  the  first  course  wonld 
appear  vulgar  in  the  second. 

•  No.  943.  Dindonneau  far ci. 

Have  a  young  turkey,  but  do  not  let  its  weight  exceed 
six  pounds,  have  ready  one  pound  of  veaJ  foarcemeat  with 
which  mix  six  truffles  in  small  dice  and  half  a  pound  of  fat 
Yn^d&  previously  blanched,  season  well,  then  stujOT  the  breast 
and  int^or  of  the  turkey,  fasten  the  skin  over  to  the  back- 
bone, (but  not  too  tight,)  with  a  packing-needle  and  string, 
and  roast  in  vegetables  as  for  the  removes ;  about  a  quarter 
of  an  hour  before  it  is  finished  take  the  vegetables  &om  it,  and 
place  it  closer  to  the  fire  to  take  a  nice  gold  colour;  servewith 
a  httle  gravy  in  the  dish.    It  will  require  one  hour  to  roast. 

No.  944.  Moa^t  Turkey  a  VAnglaise. 

Have  a  young  turkey,  stuff  the  breast  with  some  veal 
stuffing  (No.  127),  roast  it  plain  as  directed,  and  serve  vrith 
a  little  gravy  and  water-cresses ;  a  few  small  country  sau- 
sages broiled  very  crisp  should  be  handed  round  the  table. 

No.  945.  Turkey  Poulta. 

Turkey  poults,  so  called  from  being  used  when  about 
the  sise  of  a  large  poolet,  are  trussed  with  the  legs  turned 


398  ROASTS. 

at  the  knuckle  and  the  feet  pressing  upon  the  thighs,  the 
neck  is  skinned  and  the  head  fixed  under  the  wing ;  roast 
them  the  same  as  directed  for  turkeys,  about  twenty-five 
minutes  or  half  an  hour,  according  to  their  size,  and  in  the 
same  modes,  but  they  are  usually  served,  one  larded  and  the 
other  barded,  with  gravy  and  water-cresses  in  the  dish. 

No.  946.   Chapofi  roti  au  creason. 

Roast  and  serve  a  capon  in  any  of  the  ways  directed  for 
turkeys,  roast  of  a  nice  gold  colour  and  serve  with  water- 
cresses  round ;  a  capon  weighing  five  pounds  requires  about 
three  quarters  of  an  hour  to  roast.  Poularde  au  cresson 
exactly  as  above. 

No/  947.  Poularde  a  la  Demidoff. 

Put  a  pint  and  a  half  of  sauce  bechamel  (No.  7)  in  a 
stewpan,  place  it  over  the  fire  and  reduce  until  becoming 
thick,  keeping  it  stirred,  then  add  twenty  dressed  cocks- 
combs and  twelve  small  French  truffles,  season  with  a 
little  pepper,  salt,  and  grated  nutmeg,  take  it  off  the  fire 
and  stir  in  two  yolks  of  eggs  very  quickly,  stir  it  another 
minute  over  the  fire  to  set,  and  put  it  away  to  get  cold,  then 
have  a  nice  poularde  trussed  with  the  legs  turned  inside, 
cutting  off  the  feet,  which  stick  into  the  apertures  where 
you  turned  in  the  legs,  fix  them  in  vnth  string  and  a  pack- 
ing-needle, as  also  the  legs  and  wings,  using  no  skewers,  and 
giving  the  poularde  a  handsome  appearance,  take  out  the 
breast-bone,  stuff  the  poularde  with  the  above  preparation, 
roast  it  in  vegetables  as  for  the  removes ;  when  nearly  done 
take  away  the  vegetables  and  give  it  a  nice  colour ;  have 
ready  the  following  sauce :  put  a  pint  and  a  half  of  white 
veal  stock  in  a  stewpan,  vdth  six  spoonfuls  of  bechamel  sauce, 
and  reduce  it  to  a  white  demi-glace,  then  add  a  Uttle  sugar 
and  four  spoonfuls  of  good  cream ;  sauce  round  and  serve. . 


ROASTS.  899 

No.  948.  Poularderdti  a  la  Stdel. 

Bx>ast  a  nice  poularde  in  vegetables  as  above,  when 
nearly  done  take  away  the  vegetables,  let  it  turn  a  few 
minutes  before  the  fire,  then  mb  it  all  over  with  butter, 
have  some  bread-crumbs  and  flour  mixed  together  in  a  flour- 
box,  which  shake  over  the  poularde  by  degrees  whilst  roast- 
ing, it  will  form  a  white  crust  over,  take  it  up  and  serve 
with  a  demi-glace  de  volaille  (No.  6)  under. 

No.  949.  Poukt  rdti. 

For  a  dinner  of  four  entrees  you  would  require  two  fowls, 
but  not  too  large,  truss  and  roast  them  as  directed  for  a 
turkey,  judging  the  time  required  according  to  their  size, 
serve  with  gravy  and  watercresses ;  they  may  be  larded, 
barded,  or  served  in  any  way  mentioned  in  the  foregoing  re- 
ceipts ;  a  fowl  weighing  two  pounds  and  a  half  would  require 
half  an  hour  roasting,  or  three  quarters  of  an  hour  if  larger. 

No.  950.  Spring  Chickens 

Are  served  like  fowls,  generally  plain  roasted,  but  they 
may  be  larded  or  dressed  a  la  Stael  (No.  948)  as  the  pou- 
larde. Be  particular  in  tying  the  legs  upon  paper  to  the 
spit,  as  directed  for  the  turkey,  as  it  so  improves  their 
appearance  when  roasted.  About  twenty-five  minutes  would 
be  sufficient  to  roast  them. 

No.  961.  Spring  Chickens  a  la  Forrester, 

Truss  them  as  directed  for  poularde  (No.  947),  but  roast 
them  quite  plain,  not  very  brown ;  have  two  good  handfuls 
of  very  fresh  water-cresses,  pick  oflF  all  the  stalks,  and  one 
of  small  salad  mixed  weD  together,  and  completely  cover  the 
chickens  with  it,  serve  a  Uttle  gravy  on  the  dish  with  some 
separate,  and  a  boat  of  bread  sauce. 


400  K0A8TS. 

No.  952.   Creese. 

A  green  goose  roasted  plain  and  served  with  a  Mle 
gravy  is  generally  sent  up  for  second  courses ;  but  if  the 
lai^r  ones  are  used  they  must  be  stuffed  with  sage  and 
onions,  but  very  few  would  choose  SMch  a  thing  for  a  roast 
second  course,  whilst  green  geese  in  their  season  are  great 
favonrites,  truss  them  by  cutting  (^  the  leg  at  the  knuckle, 
and  the  wing  at  the  first  pinion,  fixing  them  at  the  side 
with  skewers  to  throw  the  breast  up ;  a  full-grown  goose 
will  take  one  hour  to  roast,  but  a  green  one  not  more  than 
half  an  hour. 

No.  953.  DucMin^s. 

Make  a  very  favourite  roast  in  the  London  season,  they 
must  have  good  fillets,  white  and  plump,  and  require  to  be 
a  little  more  underdone  than  any  other  description  of 
poultry ;  if  too  much  done  the  &t  catches  and  gives  a  rank 
flavour  to  the  flesh,  besides  causing  the  fillets  to  eat  diy, 
they  are  usually  served  plain  roasted  for  a  second  course, 
but  I  have  served  them  differently  upon  some  oocasions  for 
the  sake  of  variety,  but  it  must  be  with  a  very  thin  sauce 
and  one  that  invigcnrates  the  palate,  although  they  never  can 
be  better  than  when  served  plain  roasted,  I  shall  here  give 
one  or  two  deviations ;  truss  them  by  twisting  the  1^  at 
the  knuckles  and  resting  the  feet  upon  the  thighs,  cut  the 
wing  off  at  the  first  pinion,  and  run  a  skewer  through  the 
bird,  fixing  the  pinion  and  legs  with  it,  place  them  upon  a 
spit  and  roast  twenty  minutes. 

No.  954.   Canetons  au  vin  de  Madere. 

Roast  them  plain,  but  just  before  they  are  done  shake 
a  httle  potato-flour  over  them  mixed  with  a  httle  common 
flour,  dress  them  on  your  dish,  and  have  ready  the  following 


ROASTS.  401 

sauce :  put  three  spooufuls  of  chopped  ohves  and  one  of 
chopped  eschalots  in  a  stewpan  with  two  glasses  of  Madeira 
wine,  reduce  it  a  minute,  then  add  half  a  pint  of  demi-glace 
(No.  9)  with  a  little  cayenne,  sugar,  and  six  spoonfuls  of  con- 
somme, reduce  it  till  it  adheres  lightly  to  the  back  of  the 
spoon,  then  add  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  sauce  under  and 

serve. 

No.  955.  CuTietona  aujua  d'orange. 

Roast  two  ducklings  plain,  and  serve  with  a  sauce  au  jus 
d'orange  (No.  17)  over. 

No.  956.  Canetona  cmjw  d* eschalotte. 

Bx>ast  as  in  the  last  and  serve  with  a  sauce  au  jus  d'es- 
chalotte  (No.  16)  under. 

No.  957.  Guinea  Fowk. 

These  birds  must  be  very  young,  for  being  naturally  very 
diy,  they  are  not  eatable  if  more  than  twelvemonths  old ; 
they  are  generally  larded  or  barded,  and  served  plain  roasted, 
rather  well-done,  they  are  trussed  Uke  the  conunon  fowls, 
and  require  nearly  three  quarters  of  an  hour  to  roast. 

No.  958.  Pea  Ibwls. 

These  magnificent  birds  make  a  noble  roast,  and  when 
young  are  very  excellent,  they  are  larded,  plain  roasted,  and 
served  with  the  tail  stuck  into  them,  which  you  have  pre- 
served', the  head  with  its  feathers  being  left  folded  up  in 
paper  and  tucked  under  the  wing ;  roast  about  an  hour  and 
a  half,  take  the  paper  from  the  head  and  neck,  dress  it  upon 
your  dish  with  water-cresses  and  a  border  of  tulips  or  roses 
round,  and  the  gravy  separate  in  a  boat. 

In  large  families  where  these  volatile  demi-gods  are  plen« 
tifiil,  I  would  recommend  them  to  have  one  of  the  finest 
peacock's  tails  mounted  in  silver,  and  made  to  easily  fix 

26 


402  ROASTS. 

upon  the  dish,  by  means  of  a  slide,  in  which  the  fowl  is 
seiredi  it  would  look  splendid  upon  table,  and  remind 
us  of  the  ancient  Roman  banquets,  where  Lucullus,  Tibenus^ 
and  Horace  used  to  feast  and  sing  their  love. 

No.  95(9.  Piyeom 

Are  trussed  as  a  fowl  to  roast,  and  served  plain  roasted, 
with  a  little  gravy  in  the  dish,  or  roasted  with  a  vine-leaf 
upon  the  breast,  over  whidi  you  have  tied  a  square  piece  of 
bacon,  they  will  take  a  quarter  of  an  hour  to  roast,  but 
serve  them  with  the  bacon  and  leaf  over ;  my  new  way  of 
cooking  them  is  to  cut  up  a  head  or  two  of  celery  into  very 
thin  layers,  lay  some  on  the  breast  of  each,  and  tie  pieces  of 
fat  bacon  over,  roast  and  serve  with  a  little  gravy  as  usual ; 
this  method  has  been  much  approved  of 

No.  960.  QmUs. 

Eight  quails  are  sufficient  for  a  dish,  they  should  be 
killed  if  possible  forty-eight  hours  before  dressing,  draw  and 
truss  them  by  cutting  off  the  wings  at  the  first  pinion, 
leaving  the  feet,  and  fixing  the  pinion  of  the  wing  and  1^ 
with  a  very  small  skewer;  cover  the  breasts  with  vine- 
leaves,  over  which  tie  a  thin  square  slice  of  fat  bacon,  then 
pass  a  long  skewer  through  the  pinions  and  thighs  of  each, 
tie  them  on  a  spit  and  roast  them  nearly  twelve  minutes  at 
a  convenient  distance  from  a  sharp  fire  of  a  nice  gdd  colour, 
serve  with  a  little  gravy  in  the  dish. 

No.  961.  Cailles  a  TMoise. 

Prepare  eight  quails  v^th  the  bacon  and  vine-leaves  as 
before,  then  have  a  pig's  caul,  cut  it  into  eight  square 
pieces  and  fold  a  quail  in  each,  roast  them  a  minute  longer 
than  in  the  last,  and  serve  with  a  very  thin  sauce  bechamel 
(No.  7)  which  you  have  finished  with  a  spoonful  of  whipped 
cream  under. 


ROASTS. '  40S 

No.  962.  Pheasants 

For  second  course  are  usually  served  plain,  you  require 
two  of  them  for  a  dish  in  a  four  entree  dinner,  truss  them 
the  same  as  a  fowl^  leaving  the  head  and  neck  on,  which 
sldn,  and  fix  round  at  the  side  with  the  skewer  you  have 
fixed  the  wing  and  legs  with ;  a  middUng-sized  one  wiU 
take  about  half  an  hour  before  a  brisk  fire,  they  are  also 
good  larded,  or  one  larded  and  the  other  barded. 

No.  963.  Faisans  a  la  Galitzine, 

Roast  a  couple  of  pheasants,  and  when  done  cut  the 
breasts  in  sUces  without  detaching  them ;  put  six  spoonfuls 
of  consomme  of  game  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  piece  of  glaze 
the  size  of  a  wahiut,  boil  two  minutes,  then  add  two  pats 
of  butter,  a  Uttle  cayenne  pepper,  and  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon,  pour  over  and  serve. 

964.  Grouse 

Are  generally  served  plam  roasted  upon  a  piece  of  toast, 
with  gravy  separate  in  a  boat ;  they  may  also  be  served  a  la 
Rob  Roy,  as  directed  for  the  Remove  (No.  548),  but  two 
birds  will  be  sufficient  for  a  roast,  truss  them  as  you  would 
a  fowl  to  roast. 

No.  965.  Grouse  a  la  Bonny  Lassie. 

Truss  them  rather  roughly,  roast  them  before  a  brisk  fire 
rather  underdone,  if  young  a  quarter  of  an  hour  will  be 
sufficient,  and  serve  them  upon  toast,  crisp  and  well-but- 
tered, made  fi*om  brown  bread,  and  serve  with  a  rather 
thick  and  boiled  melted  butter  (No.  71)  over. 

Grouse  may  likewise  be  served  for  a  change  with  a  thin 
sauce  a  I'essence  de  gibier,  with  which  you  may  add  a  few 
fauffles  or  mushrooms,  but  this  will  of  course  much  depend 


404  ROASTS. 

upon  the  first  course,  or,  at  least,  of  what  the  first  oouise 
consists,  although,  as  I  have  before  stated,  they  are  better 
pkdn  roasted ;  yet  in  some  parts  of  the  country  where  they 
are  plentiful  a  change  may  be  desired. 

Ptarmigans 

Are  Swedish  birds,  but  many  are  found  in  Scotland, 
much  of  the  same  species  as  grouse,  and  are  very  plentiful 
about  the  month  of  February ;  they  are  dressed  precisely  in 
the  same  way  as  the  grouse.  A  curious  anecdote  of  the  cele- 
brated Charles  the  Twelfth,  relating  to  what  he  used  to  call 
a  fete,  or  repas  champetre,  gave  me  the  idea  of  inventing 
the  following  roast,  and  calling  it 

Ptarmigan  a  la  Charles  the  Tioelfth. 

Kill  them  by  accident,  pluck  them  inunediately,  draw 
them,  and  save  the  feathers  and  interior,  put  three  guns  in 
bivouac,  and  hang  the  ptarmigans  on  one  side  with  string 
or  green  twigs,  light  a  wood  fire  beneath,  upon  which  put 
the  feathers  and  interior,  let  remain,  turning  them  the  whole 
time,  till  done,  and  serve  them  au  naturel,  with  a  good  bit 
of  salt  sprinkled  over  them ;  many  people  would  object  to 
this  method,  but  the  flavour  is  excellent  to  a  scientific 
palate,  and  more  so  to  a  hungry  stomach. 

The  anecdote  is   as   follows :   crossing  a  mountain  in  J 

Sweden  with  a  small  part  of  his  army,  the  King  was  unex- 
pectedly attacked  by  a  numerous  body  of  Russians,  and  a 
skirmish  took  place,  but  the  King  was  as  usual  victorious ; 
having  lost  several  of  his  braves^  a  search  was  made  for 
them  in  the  heather,  where  they  found  one  hundred  and 
fifty-onc  killed  and  thirty  wounded,  being  fifteen  of  the 
enemy,  two  Swedish  officers,  one  Ueutenant,  seven  privates, 
one  hundred  and  thirty  ptarmigans,  and  twenty-five  black 
cocks,  all  killed  by  accident,  the  birds  were,  by  conunand 


ROASTS.  405 

of  his  Majesty,  plucked  and  roasted,  to  the  no  small  satis- 
fiEiction  of  his  troops,  who  were  short  of  provisions  at  the 
time ;  so  great  was  the  treat  that  they  hoped  his  Majesty 
would  often  repeat  the  fete  champetre. 

No.  966.  Black  Cocks  and  Grey  Hens, 

These  birds,  hke  pheasants,  must  be  well  kept ;  they  are 
excellent  eating,  and  are  usually  served  plain  roasted,  trussed 
like  grouse,  but  may  be  served  a  la  Stockholm  as  follows : 
lard  one  side  of  the  breast,  and  cover  the  other  side  with 
vine-leaves  and  fat  bacon,  which  tie  on,  roast  from  half  to 
three  quarters  of  an  hour  according  to  the  size,  and  serve 
with  toast  under,  and  gravy  in  the  dish. 

No.  967.  Partridges 

Make  a  very  nice  roast,  truss  them  in  the  same  manner  as 
directed  for  grouse,  obtain  them  young  if  possible,  the  old 
ones  although  not  the  best  for  stewing  eat  much  better  dressed 
that  way ;  four  will  be  sufficient  for  a  roast,  put  them  upon 
the  spit,  and  when  the  first  course  goes  to  table  place  them 
before  a  sharp  fire  fifteen  minutes,  or  according  to  the  size, 
and  serve  with  a  gill  of  clear  gravy  upon  the  dish  and  bread 
sauce  in  a  boat ;  you  may  also  lard  or  bard  them  with  fat 
bacon,  or  lard  two  and  bard  two,  allowing  them  a  Uttle 
longer  to  roast,  it  will  give  them  a  very  nice  appearance. 

No.  968.  I>un  Birds 

Are  very  seldom  sent  to  table,  but  plain  roasted  is  the 
usual  way,  and  a  little  or  no  improvement  can  be  made  ; 
serve  them  in  a  dish  with  gravy  and  a  lemon  separate,  not 
too  much  underdone. 

No.  969.   fFild  Ducks  and  Pintails. 
Must  not  be  too  old,  they  require  keeping  two  or  three 


406  ROASTS. 

days  or  longer  before  they  are  dressed ;  they  are  trussed  by 
twisting  each  leg  at  the  knuckle^  and  resting  the  daws  <m 
each  side  of  the  breast,  fixing  them  with  a  skewer  run 
through  the  thighs  and  pinion  of  the  wings  (No.  953),  rub 
the  liver  over  the  breasts,  and  roast  them  from  fifteen  to 
twenty  minutes  rather  brown,  serve  three  for  a  riiast,  as  the 
breast  is  the  only  part  eatable,  a  little  gravy  on  the  dish 
and  lemons  separate. 

No.  970.   TTild  Duckn  a  la  Chasseur, 

Truss  them  as  before,  rub  the  liver  over,  and  roast  un- 
derdone, cut  the  breast  in  slices  without  detaching  them, 
catch  the  gravy  that  escapes  in  a  saute-pan,  add  a  piece  of 
glaze  the  size  of  a  walnut,  place  it  on  the  fire,  and  when 
hot  add  four  pats  of  butter,  half  a  glass  of  port  wine,  a 
Uttle  mignonette,  pepper,  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  shake 
altogether  over  the  fire,  and  when  the  butter  is  melted  sauce 
over  and  serve.  Although  I  have  directed  that  they  should  be 
roasted  underdone  they  must  have  no  appearance  of  rawness. 

No.  971.   Widgeons 

Require  but  very  little  keeping  before  they  are  dressed, 
if  well  roasted  they  are  nearly  equal  to  the  wild  duck,  and 
are  served  the  same ;  it  requires  rather  more  than  a  quarter 
of  an  hour  to  roast  them  to  perfection. 

No.  972.  Teal 

Make  a  beautiful  roast  as  well  as  entree,  and  when  in 
good  order  are  very  deUdous,  after  a  frost  they  are  generally 
very  fat ;  truss  them  with  care,  leaving  the  breast  the  same 
as  ducklings,  six  will  be  sufficient  for  a  dish,  keep  them  a 
very  light  brown  colour  and  rather  crisp,  serve  with  a  little 
gravy  and  water-cresses,  if  approved  of,  serve  lemon  separate; 
these  birds  being  tender  are  easily  cut  in  halves  by  the 


roasts;  407 

carver,  to  one  half  of  wbioh  he  can  assist  each  guest ;  they 
will  require  about  eight  minutes  roasting. 

No.  973.  Teal  aujua  d' orange. 

Boost  as  above,  and  serve  with  a  sauce  au  jus  d'orauge 
(No.  1 7)  over  them,  or  they  may  be  served  with  a  sauce  au  jus 
de  bigarade  (No.  18),  or  a  demi-glace  de  gibier  (No.  61). 

No.  974.  Plovers 

Are  good  when  well  kept,  and  excellent  as  a  roast,  truss, 
but  do  not  draw  them,  and  put  six  on  a  skewer,  set  some 
toast  underneath  to  catch  the  trail  which  may  escape  from 
them  whilst  roasting,  about  ten  minutes  is  sufficient ;  cut  the 
toast  in  diamond  shapes,  place  them  in  your  dish  with  the 
plovers  over,  and  gravy  separate  in  a  boat,  they  may  also 
be  served  barded  with  the  vine-leaf  as  for  pigeons  or  quails, 
but  the  bacon  must  be  very  thin,  and  when  roasted  quite 
crisp,  black  plovers  are  dressed  in  the  same  way,  but  the 
golden  ones  are  the  most  delicate. 

No.  975.   Of  the  Woodcock. 

These  birds  are  one  of  the  greatest  luxuries,  they  must 
not  be  too  fresh  or  too  stale  when  dressed ;  they  are  fit  for 
cooking  when  they  look  black  between  the  legs  and  the 
feathers  become  rather  loose ;  pluck  and  truss  them  with 
the  legs  twisted  at  the  knuckles  and  the4eet  pressing  upon 
the  thighs ;  bring  the  pinion  of  the  wing  to  the  thigh,  you 
have  previously  skinned  the  head  and  neck,  bring  the  beak 
roimd  under  the  wing,  which  pass  through  the  pinions  of 
the  wings  and  thighs,  place  about  four  upon  a  skewer,  tie 
them  upon  a  spit  and  roast  them  from  ten  to  fifteen  mi- 
nutes before  a  sharp  fire  with  a  piece  of  toasted  bread 
beneath  to  catch  the  trail  that  falls  from  them ;  when  done 
cut  the  toast  in  diamond  shapes,  each  piece  large  enough  to 


408  BOASTS. 

stand  a  bird  upon,  dress  them  slantwise  on  your  dish  with 
gravy  sufficient  to  lightly  moisten  the  toast,  and  8ome  sepa- 
rate in  a  boat ;  they  may  also  be  barded  with  a  piece  of 
bacon  tied  over  the  breast  not  too  thick,  but  thqr  will 
require  rather  longer  to  roast.  The  beak  may  be  made  to 
form  the  skewer. 

No.  976.  Woodcocks  a  la  Stdd, 

Truss  as  before,  put  them  down  to  roast,  when  down 
two  minutes  rub  butter  over,  and  shake  flour  gently  but 
continually  over  them  till  done,  it  will  give  them  quite  a 
new  appearance,  and  are  by  many  preferred  to  plain  roasted ; 
serve  them  on  a  toast  as  before. 

No.  977.   Woodcocks  a  lafumee  de  Gibier. 

Boast  as  before  and  serve  with  a  sauce  fomee  de 
gibier  (No.  60),  which  you  have  finished  with  a  pat  of 
butter.  Although  I  recommend  that  tlus  delicate  bird 
should  be  served  plain  roasted,  yet  it  may  be  served  with 
advantage  as  above  directed. 

No.  978.   Woodcocks  a  la  Piedmontaise, 

Roast  as  before  then  cut  four  large  truffles  in  slices,  fry 
them  a  few  minutes  in  oil,  then  pour  off  the  oil,  add  ten 
tablespoonfuls  of  sauce  fomee  de  gibier  and  a  UtUe  sugar, 
boil  altogether  two  minutes,  dress  the  birds  on  toast, 
sauce  over  and  serve* 

No.  979.  Larks 

Are  very  delicious  httle  birds,  about  twelve  or  fifteen  are 
sufficient  for  a  dish ;  they  are  usually  roasted  plain,  or  with 
a  thin  slice  of  fat  bacon  tied  over  them,  and  served  with  a 
little  gravy  in  the  dish  and  crumbs  of  fried  bread  round; 
they  require  about  eight  minutes  to  roast  them  well. 


ROASTS.  409 

No.  980.  Snipes 

Axe  somewhat  similar  to  woodcocks,  and  dressed  exactly 
the  same,  but  you  require  eight  or  ten  for  a  dish ;  they  do 
not  require  more  than  ten  minutes  roasting. 

No.  98 J.  Hares. 

One  is  sufficient  for  a  roast,  skin  and  truss  it  nicely, 
stuff  the  belly  with  a  good  veal  stuffing,  sew  it  up,  then 
put  it  on  the  spit,  rub  butter  over  the  back  and  shake  flour 
over  it,  roast  it  about  forty  minutes  before  a  sharp  fire, 
but  that  depends  upon  the  size  of  course ;  serve  them  with 
plain  gravy  in  the  dish  and  currant  jelly  separate.  They 
are  also  served  with  a  sauce  poivrade  (No.  32),  or  sauce  au 
jus  d'groseilles  (No.  86),  they  may  also  be  larded. 

No.  982.  Leverets 

Are  plain  roasted  and  do  not  require  stuffing,  nor  so 
long  roasting  being  smaller ;  they  are  usually  served  with 
plain  gravy,  but  may  be  served  with  either  of  the  sauces 
mentioned  in  the  last ;  you  require  two  for  a  roast.  They 
will  take  from  twenty-five  to  thirty  minutes  roasting. 

No.  983.  Babbits. 

You  require  two  for  a  roast ;  they  may  be  stuffed  with  a 
good  veal  stuffing  or  forcemeat  of  veal,  plain  roasted,  and 
served  with  a  Uttle  gravy  on  the  dish.  Wild  rabbits  are 
dressed  precisely  the  same ;  they  may  be  stuffed  with  a 
forcemeat  of  game  instead  of  veal,  both  require  butter  and 
flour  rubbed  over  them,  and  will  take  from  twenty  to 
twenty-five  minutes  roasting. 


410 


SAVOURY  DISHES  FOR  SECOND  COURSE. 


These  dishes  are  divided  into  three  classes,  and  in  Eng- 
land all  belong  to  the  second  course,  but  in  France  they  are 
very  frequently  served  in  the  first  with  a  dinner  of  four  or 
six  entrees,  that  is,  one  or  two  of  them,  and  are  very  com- 
mendable in  the  summer  months ;  for  breakfasts,  luncheons, 
or  suppers,  they  are  invaluable.  The  large  pieces,  such  as 
pates  of  game,  galantine  of  turkey,  poulardes,  boars'  heads, 
&c.,  are  in  smaller  dinners  placed  at  the  bottom  of  the  table 
to  face  the  roasts,  but  in  a  dinner  of  six  or  ten  entrees  they 
are  served  as  flancs.  All  others,  such  as  small  galantine  of 
game  a  la  voliere,  pates,  chaud  froids,  salads,  mayonnaise,  &c., 
by  making  them  smaller  may  be  served  as  savoury  entremets, 
in  a  comer  dish. 


THE   boar's    head 


Has  in  all  times  ornamented  the  tables  and  even  the 
walls  of  ancient  epicures ; — ^a  princely  dish  is  a  boar's  head, 
its  ferocious  appearance  giving  it  such  noble  dignity  when 
brought  to  table  that  it  has  not  only  been  recc^ized  as 
one  of  the  first  and  most  recherche  dishes  of  antiquity,  but 
has  been  immortalized  by  some  of  the  oldest  masters ;  never 
has  an  antique  banquet  been  represented  without  the  intro- 
duction of  either  a  black  or  white  servant  in  the  act  of 
bringing  or  placing  a  boar's  head  upon  the  table  of  a 
wealthy  amphytrion.     Sneiders,  Weenix,  and  Rubens,  have 


SAVOURY  BI8HSS.  411 

often  traced  it  upon  their  immortal  canvasses,  which  were 
eagerly  bought  by  the  greatest  epicureans  to  embellish  their 
banqueting  halls,  and  to  show  their  children,  from  gene- 
ration  to  generation,  how  their  great  forefathers  used  to 
live. 

No.  984.   Of  the  Boards  Head  a  I' Antique. 

Procure  a  head  with  as  much  of  the  neck  attadied  to  it 
as  possible,  singe  it  weU,  holding  it  over  a  charcoal  fire, 
and  keeping  it  moved,  then  wipe  it  with  a  cloth,  scrape 
well  with  a  knife  without  scratching  the  skin,  and  place  it 
on  a  cloth  upon  its  skull,  open  it  with  your  knife  from  on^ 
end  to  the  other,  and  bone  it  very  carefully  without  piercing 
the  skin,  leaving  no  flesh  whatever  upon  the  bones,  bone  the 
two  uecks  of  the  boar,  which  cut  into  long  fiUets  two  inched 
square,  place  the  head  in  a  salting-tub,  over  which  put  ten 
pounds  of  salt,  one  of  brown  sugar,  ten  bay-leaves,  half  an 
ounce  of  peppercorns,  a  quarter  ditto  of  cloves,  six  blades 
of  mace,  eight  minced  onions,  twenty  sprigs  of  thyme,  ten 
ditto  of  winter  savoury,  and  two  sliced  carrots ;  mix  all  well 
together  and  leave  it  eight  or  ten  days,  (rubbing  the  head 
every  other  day,)  until  well  salted,  then  take  it  out,  dry  it 
well  upon  a  cbth,  lay  the  head  straight  before  you,  skin  side 
downwards,  have  ready  ten  pounds  of  forcemeat  (No.  120,) 
(bat  using  the  flesh  of  the  wild  boar  instead  of  veal,*)  with 
whi(^  cover  the  interior  of  the  head  an  inch  in  thickness  at 
the  thinnest  parts,  roll  the  fillets  cut  from  the  neck  in  pieces 
of  the  rind,  (both  salted  with  the  head  and  dried  upon  a 
cloth,)  place  a  layer  of  them  lengthwise  in  the  head,  vdth 

*  The  flesh  of  the  wild  boar  being  rather  diffioalt  to  obtain  in  this  country,  the 
head  being  the  only  part  considered  worth  presenting,  the  flesh  of  the  common 
pig  may  be  nsed  for  the  forcemeat  and  interior,  as  well  as  the  rind,  which  mnsi 
be  selected  in  pieces  as  large  as  posaiUe ;  a  bottle  oi  common  part  wine  is  an 
improvement  in  the  pickling. 


412  SAVOURY  DISHES. 

a  long  piece  of  fat  bacon  half  an  inch  square  between  each^ 
sprinkle  a  little  chopped  eschalots,  pepper,  salt,  and  grated 
nutmeg  over,  and  place  here  and  there  about  a  pound  of 
the  best  preserved  truffles,  vnth  one  of  very  green  pista- 
chios blanched  and  skinned,  and  continue  filling  with  force- 
meat and  the  other  ingredients  until  you  have  used  the 
whole,  finishing  by  covering  forcemeat  over ;  join  the  two 
cheeks  together  with  the  above  in  the  interior,  sew  it  up 
with  packthread  giving  it  the  shape  of  the  head  as  much 
as  possible  and  fold  it  in  one  or  two  large  thin  cloths  leav- 
ing the  ears  out  and  upright ;  braise  as  follows :  put  half  a 
pound  of  butter  in  a  large  braising-pan  or  stock-pot,  over 
wl}ich  put  fifteen  pounds  of  trimmings  of  pork  or  knuckles 
of  veal,  eight  onions,  two  carrots,  four  turnips,  eight  bay- 
leaves,  a  tablespoonful  of  peppercorns,  twelve  cloves,  ten 
sprigs  of  thyme,  ten  of  marjoram,  four  blades  of  maoe,  a 
bottle  of  bucellas  wine,  and  four  calves'  feet,  place  it  upon 
a  sharp  fire  stirring  it  occasionally  until  the  bottom  is 
covered  with  a  clearish  glaze,  then  add  six  gallons  of 
water  and  a  pound  of  salt,  when  boiling  draw  it  to  the 
comer  of  the  stove,  skim,  and  put  in  the  head  the  ears 
uppermost  and  let  simmer  seven  or  eight  hours,  perhaps 
more,  according  to  the  size  and  age  of  the  boar,  but  the 
better  plan  would  be  to  try  it  with  a  trussing-needle ; 
if  tender  it  is  done ;  skim  the  stock,  in  which  leave  the 
head  until  half  cold,  when  take  it  out,  partly  undo  the 
cloths,  and  tie  it  again  tighter  if  possible,  and  press  it  in  a 
cover  or  upon  a  baking  sheet  witii  three  flat  pieces  of  wood, 
one  at  each  side  with  a  weight  against  them,  and  one  upon 
the  top  between  the  ears,  on  which  place  a  fourteen  pounds 
weight,  let  it  remain  all  night  until  quite  cold,  when  take 
it  out  of  the  cloths,  detach  the  thread  it  was  sewn  up  with, 
cut  a  piece  an  inch  in  thickness  from  behind  the  ears, 
(from  which  part  it  must  be  carved  in  as  thin  slices  as 


SAVOURY  DISHES.  413 

possible,)  it  will  have  a  marbled  appearance,  trim  the  head 
a  little,  setting  the  ears  in  a  proper  position,  glaze  it  with 
a  brownish  glaze,  form  the  eyes  with  a  Uttle  lard  and  romid 
pieces  of  truffles,  and  the  tusks  with  p&te  d'office  (No.  1187) 
baking  them,  have  some  very  fresh  tulips  and  roses,  which 
stick  tastefully  in  the  ears  and  some  around,  but  leaving 
space  to  carve,  garnish  boldly  with  croutons  aspic  made 
from  the  stock  clarified  as  directed  (No.  1360). 

A  black  hog's  head  may  be  dressed  exactly  the  same 
with  the  greatest  success ;  pig's  heads  also,  but  more  sim* 
plified,  proceeding  as  for  galantine  (No.  998),  but  having 
the  meat  pickled. 

A  plain  pickled  boar's  head  is  also  very  much  thought 
of,  and  is  a  noble  dish :  singe  the  head  as  before,  but  leaving 
a  few  bristles  round  the  eyes  and  ears,  tie  it  up  in  a  cloth, 
and  braise  as  before  until  quite  tender.  It  must  not  be 
boned. 

The  head  of  the  young  boar  or  marcassin  is  very  deUcate 
dressed  in  either  method,  so  likewise  are  the  legs,  necks, 
shoulders  and  saddles,  pickled  and  roasted,  or  braised  and 
served  with  a  poivrade  or  any  other  highly-seasoned  sauce, 
cotelettes  may  also  be  cut  from  the  necks. 

The  following  is  the  German  method  of  making  a  sauce 
to  be  eaten  with  boar's  head :  cut  the  rind  (free  from 
pith)  of  two  Seville  oranges  into  very  thin  strips  half  an 
inch  in  length,  which  blanch  in  boiling  water,  drain  them 
upon  a  sieve  and  put  them  into  a  basin,  with  a  spoonful 
of  mixed  English  mustard,  four  of  currant  jelly,  a  Uttle 
pepper,  salt,  (nodx  well  together,)  and  half  a  pint  of  good 
port  wine. 

No.  986.  Bids  of  Beef  a  la  George  the  Fourth, 

Beef,  as  for  entrees,  ofifers  but  very  Httle  variation  for 
second  course  dishes,  the  ribs,  fillets,  and  tongue  being  the 


414  8A¥OURT  DI8HK8. 

only  parts  to  be  reoommended ;  and  even  these  are  more  fit 
for  lundieons  or  sappers. 

Take  a  piece  of  ribs  of  beef  with  five  bones,  wdll  ooverod^ 
but  not  too  fat  nor  too  large,  bone  it  and  lard  the  thidc 
part  with  long  pieces  of  fat  bacon  and  lean  ham  or  tongae, 
well  seasoned  with  pepp^,  salt,  and  diopped  parsley,  then 
lay  the  beef  on  a  dish,  with  a  little  pepper,  salt,  fifty  pep- 
percorns, suL  blades  of  mace,  ten  eschalots  in  slices,  half 
a  pint  of  Madeira,  and  a  httle  thyme  and  bay-leaves,  let 
remam  thus  five  days  in  winter,  and  but  three  in  smnmer, 
turn  and  rub  it  every  day ;  when  ready  to  dress  clear  away 
the  ingredients,  roll  and  tie  it  up,  then  put  two  pounds  of 
lean  ham  cut  in  dice  in  a  liEU'ge  stevirpan,  with  two  ounces 
of  butt^  and  six  large  Portugal  onions,  pass  gently  over  a 
slow  fire,  keeping  stirred,  put  in  the  beef,  let  it  braise 
gently  imtil  becoming  a  good  colour,  add  water  sufficient 
to  reach  half  way  up  the  beef,  with  half  a  pint  of  Madeira^ 
two  calves'  feet,  a  good  bunch  of  pardey,   and  twenty 
pieces  of  carrots,   turned  the  size  and  shape  of  yoiing 
carrots,  let  it  remain  over  a  slow  fire   and   place  some 
hve  charcoal  upon  the  Ud,  let  stew  gently  four  or  five 
hours,  or  until  tender,  which  try  with  a  trussing-needle, 
but  take  out  the  canots  and  onions  as  soon  as  done ;  when 
done  take  out  the  feet  and  skim  off  all  the  fat,  leave  it 
in  thd  stock  till  three  parts  cold,  then  take  it  up,  place 
it  in  a  deep  dish-cover,  take  ofi*  the  string,  and  strain  the 
stock  through  a  sieve  over  it,  then  lay  another  dish  upon 
the  beef,  upon  which  place  a  twenty-eight  pounds  weight, 
and  leave  it  till  quite  cold,  warm  the  stock  and  pass  it 
through  a  napkin,  season  a  little  more  if  required,  and 
place  it  in  a  mould  upon  ice,  dress  the  beef  on  a  dish, 
glaze  it  nicely,  dress  the  onions  at  each  end  and  the  carrots 
in  pyramid  at  each  side,  cut  the  stock  when  firm  in  crou- 
tons, vdth  which  garnish  the  beef  tastefuUy  and  serve; 


SAVOURY  DISHES.  415 

shotild  the  stock  be  thick  clariiy  it  as  directed  for  conp 
somme  (No.  134) ;  it  is  not^  however,  required  to  be  wiy 
clear.    To  carve  it  must  be  cut  in  sUces  crosswise. 

No.  986.  nibs  of  Beef  a  la  Bolingbroke. 

Proceed  with  the  beef  just  as  in  the  last,  but  put  a  rdl 
of  veal  stuflSng  (No.  127)  in  the  centre,  the  carrots  and 
onions  only  being  required  for  flavour  are  cut  in  small  shces ; 
press  your  beef  as  in  the  last,  but  thieken  the  stock  with  a 
little  roux  to  form  a  thin  brown  sauce^  with  which  make  a 
good  sauce  piquante  (No.  27),  which  flavour  sUghtly  with  a 
little  scraped  garlic,  place  the  beef  in  your  dish,  and  the 
sauce  upon  ice,  when  nearly  cold  and  ready  to  set  pour  it 
over,  sprinkling  the  top  with  grated  crust  of  bread,  with 
which  you  have  mixed  some  chopped  gherkins,  it  is  then 
ready  to  serve. 

No.  987.  FUet  de  B<euffroid  a  la  Bohemienne. 

Prepare  and  lard  a  fillet  of  beef  as  directed  for  the  Re- 
moves (No.  41 7),  then  put  it  in  a  basin  in  which  you  have 
pot  the  following  marinade :  four  onions  in  slices,  one  carrot, 
a  head  of  celery,  ten  sprigs  of  thyme,  eight  bay-leaves,  two 
cloves  of  garlic,  and  a  little  parsley,  which  pass  in  half  a 
pound  of  butter  in  a  stewpan  over  a  sharp  fire  five  minutes^ 
then  add  one  quart  of  vinegar,  one  of  water,  two  ounces  of 
salt,  and  half  a  pound  of  brown  sugar,  with  twenty  pepper- 
corns, ten  cloves,  and  tw(3  blades  of  mace,  boil  half  an  hour, 
but  do  not  put  in  the  fillet  till  the  marinade  is  cold,  let  re* 
main  a  week,  and  when  wanted  put  it  in  a  braising-pan 
with  one  quart  of  the  marinade  and  two  of  veal  stock  or 
consomme  (No.  134),  place  it  over  a  slow  fire,  and  stew 
gently  for  two  or  three  hours,  depending  upon  the  size;, 
take  it  out  and  place  it  in  a  <fish  to  cool,  with  a  Uttle  stodi 
over  it,  skim  the  remainder  and  pass  it  through  a  napkin 


416  8AV0URT  DISHES. 

into  a  stewpan^  place  it  upon  the  fire,  reduce  it  to  half^  skim 
it  well,  add  a  little  clarified  isinglass  (No.  1372)  sufiScient  to 
set  it  as  a  delicate  aspic,  six  spoonfuls  of  tomata  sauce,  and 
a  little  red  currant  jelly ;  having  trimmed  and  dished  the 
fillet,  sauce  over,  when  quite  cold  garnish  with  a  border 
of  plovers'  eggs,  and  decorate  three  silver  atelettes,  by 
placing  a  fine  dressed  cockscomb  at  the  top,  a  fine  trufile 
beneath,  and  a  plover's  egg,  ornamented  with  truffles  at 
the  bottom,  stick  them  in  the  fillet,  one  slanting  at  each 
end,  and  the  other  upright  in  the  centre,  it  is  then  ready  to 
serve. 

No.  988.  Filets  de  Bcsttffarcis  a  la  Dr,  Johnson. 

Trim  a  nice  small  fillet  about  fifteen  inches  long,  and  cut 
off  the  thickest  part  of  the  thin  end,  then  vnth  a  long  knife 
cut  a  deep  incision  down  the  thin  side,  lengthwise,  which 
fill  with  a  pound  of  veal  forcemeat  (No.  120),  with  which 
you  have  mixed  some  ox-tongue,  truffles,  and  hard-boiled 
whites  of  eggs,  cut  into  good-sized  fillets,  season  with  a 
Uttle  chopped  eschalots,  then  cover  the  fillet  with  leaves  of 
celery  as  large  as  you  can  get  them,  over  which  also  lay 
slices  of  cooked  ham,  and  envelope  the  whole  in  thin  sHces 
of  fat  bacon,  tie  it  up  with  string,  then  place  it  in  a  braising- 
pan  with  two  calves^  feet,  and  half  cover  it  with  good  stock, 
place  it  on  a  slow  fire  and  stew  it  two  hours  and  a  half,  or 
until  tender,  which  try  with  a  trussing-needle,  take  it  up 
and  leave  it  on  a  dish  to  get  cold;  then  pass  the  stock 
through  a  sieve  into  a  stewpan,  and  place  it  upon  the  ice  to 
set,  when  firm  take  off  all  the  fat,  wash  the  top  with  hot 
water  to  take  off  all  the  grease,  then  clarify  it  as  directed 
for  aspic  (No.  1360),  and  pass  it  through  a  napkin,  trim  the 
fillet  at  each  end  lightly,  leaving  the  top  untouched,  when 
quite  cold  have  ready  a  long  mould  and  pour  a  little  of  the 
clarified  stock  into  it  half  an  inch  in  depth,  place  it  on  the 


SAVOURY  DISHES.  417 

ice>  and  when  set  ornament  it  with  fillets  of  truf&es,  tongue, 
and  whites  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  which  cover  carefully  with 
more  of  the  clarified  stock  half  an  inch  thick ;  when  quite 
set  lay  in  the  Met  of  beef;  the  top  downwards,  and  fiU 
the  mould  with  the  remainder  of  the  jelly;  when  set 
turn  it  out  of  the  mould  upon  a  dish  by  dipping  the 
mould  in  warm  water,  garnish  round  with  stoned  oUves 
and  the  remainder  of  the  clarified  stock ;  you  may  also  stick 
atelettes  on  the  top,  ornamented  tastefully.  If  you  cannot 
procure  a  mould  place  the  fiUet  upon  a  dish,  and  garnish  it 
tastefully  with  croutons  of  aspic. 

No.  989.  Cold  Ox  Ton^s, 

Dress  them  as  described  for  flancs  in  first  course,  but  as 
soon  as  they  are  cooked  skin  them  and  cut  off  nearly  all  the 
root,  truss  it  of  a  good  shape  by  placing  the  root  end  against 
some  fixture,  and  running  a  fork  through  the  middle  of  the 
thin  part  into  the  board ;  when  cold  trim  it.  Although  I 
disapprove  of  ornamented  hot  tongues  for  first  course,  I 
must  confess  that  a  bold  design  carved  upon  a  fine  tongue 
is  pleasing  to  the  eyes  on  a  luncheon  or  supper-table,  and 
even  for  dinners  in  a  second  course,  although  seldom  used 
there ;  the  design  must  be  left  entirely  to  the  taste  of  the 
artist,  but  one  of  the  most  simple  and  yet  tasty  designs,  is 
the  imitation  of  a  long  escalope  shell,  commencing  at  the 
thin  end  and  terminating  at  the  thick ;  glaze  well  with  light 
glaze,  a  sheet  of  aspic  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness  may 
be  laid  over  it,  which  will  produce  a  pleasing  effect,  dress 
it  upon  your  dish  with  croutons  of  aspic  round.  Tongues 
for  second  course,  as  for  the  first,  are  seldom  served  by 
themselves,  but  are  usually  intended  to  be  eaten  with  veal 
or  poultry  upon  the  table. 


27 


41 S  tAVOURT  DI8HU. 


No.  090.  Tongue  a  la  Lancret. 

Boil,  truBB,  and  trim  the  tongae  as  above,  dress  it  on 
joor  dish,  and  have  ready  the  following  garniture :  boil 
gently  four  very  fine  cauliflowers,  not  too  much  done,  wbra 
oold  cut  three  of  them  into  small  bunches,  have  leadj  a  good 
sauce  mayonnaise  a  la  gelee  (No.  1361)  in  which  yoa  have 
introduced  a  little  whipped  oneam,  dip  each  piece  of  cauli- 
flower in  the  sauce  and  lay  them  on  a  dish,  which  set  upon 
the  ice,  dip  also  the  whole  cauliflower  in ;  when  t^e  sauce 
has  set  firm  place  the  cauliflower  upon  the  root  of  the 
tongue  with  an  atelette,  dress  the  bunches  round  the  tongue, 
variegating  them  trith  a  few  stoned  olives ;  the  tongue  may 
also  be  carved  in  any  design  your  fancy  may  dictate  and 
nicely  glazed. 

No.  991.  Tongue  a  la  Printaniere. 

Trim  and  carve  the  tongue  when  cdd  in  the  shape  of  a 
palm-branch;  have  some  aspic  (No.  1860)  flavoured  ritfa^ 
strongly  with  tarragon,  have  also  twenty  young  carrots  and 
twenty  middle-sized  onions,  dressed  as  directed  in  No.  438, 
let  them  get  cold  in  their  glaze,  place  the  tongue  in  the 
centre  of  the  dish,  glaze  lightly,  dress  the  vegetables  alter* 
nately  round  upon  a  thin  border  of  fresh  butter,  and  just  as 
the  aspic  is  on  the  point  of  setting  pour  it  ov^  the  vege^ 
tables,  whidi  will  look  quite  transpan^t,  set  the  dish  on 
ice  tUl  ready  to  serve,  a  few  green  peas  if  in  reason  may  be 
thrown  over  the  onions.   ♦ 

No.  992.  Ihngue  a  la  Comedienne. 

Truss  and  trim  the  tongue  as  usual,  carving  a  oraoic 
mask  upon  it,  glaze  lightly,  and  place  it  upon  your  dish, 
have  ready  prepared  the  following  garniture  :  put  two  table- 


SAVOURY  DI8HS8.  419 

spoonfbls  of  chopped  eschalots  in  a  stewpan,  with  one  of 

Chili  and  one  of  common  vinegar,  a  piece  of  glaze  the  size 

of  a  walnut,  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  half  ditto  of  to- 

mata  sauce  (No.  37),  with  double  the  quantity  of  aspic 

gelee,  reduce  over  a  sharp  fire,  keeping  it  stirred  till  be^ 

coming  rather  thick,  then  add  a  spoonful  of  capers  and  the 

same  of  chopped  gherkins,  oil  a  saute-pan  Ughtly,  pour  in 

the  sauce,  set  it  on  the  ice  just  before  serving,  turn  out  on 

a  cloth,  cut  it  in  croutons  and  garnish  tastefully. 

No.  993.  Cold  Ham. 

Procure  a  very  nice  Westmoreland  ham  of  about  nine 
pounds  in  weight,  soak  it  ten  hours  in  cold  water,  and  simmer 
three  hours*  in  plenty  of  water ;  when  done  take  it  out  and 
let  remain  until  cold,  when  cut  off  the  skin  as  thinly  as 
possible  (but  without  leaving  the  marks  of  it),  leaving  a 
piece  about  two  inches  and  a  half  broad  upon  the  knuckle, 
which  either  festoon  or  Vandyke,  carve  the  fat  into  the  form 
of  a  shell,  branch,  or  any  other  design  your  fanc^  may 
direct,  glaze  Ughtly,  and  serve  garnished  with  aspic  (No. 
1860),  chopped  and  in  croutons,  or  with  any  of  the  garni- 
tures directs  for  the  tongues. 

No.  994.  Fillet  of  Veal  a  la  Pontaiee. 

Procure  a  smsdl  leg  of  veal  firom  a  cow  calf,  cut  off  the 
knuckle  so  as  to  leave  the  fillet  about  eight  inches  in  height, 
take  the  bone  from  the  centre,  have  ready  some  good  veal 
stuffing  (No.  127)  in  which  you  have  introduced  some  lean 
chopped  ham  and  chopped  eschalots,  season  rather  high  and 
put  it  in  the  place  the  bone  came  bx>m,  envelope  the  fillet 
with  large  thin  dices  of  fat  bacon,  tie  it  up  well  with  string, 
wrap  it  in  three  or  foor  sheets  of  oiled  paper,  place  it  on  a 

*  Some  amateurs  would  prefer  them  stewed  gently  for  eight  hours,  but  I 
eontider  tbej  then  lose  half  their  flaTOor. 


420  SAVOURY  DISHES. 

spit  and  roast  three  hours  before  a  moderate  fire,  take  up, 
tie  it  tight  in  a  napkin,  place  it  on  a  dish  to  cool,  put  an- 
other dish  upon  the  top,  upon  which  place  a  fourteen  pounds 
weight,  let  remain  till  cold,  then  take  off  the  paper  and 
bacon,  the  fillet  will  be  quite  white,  cut  a  sUce  off*  the  top, 
glaze  the  sides,  and  serve  with  a  thin  sauce  tartare  (No.  38) 
round  it. 

No.  995.  I^Uet  of  Veal  a  la  Cardinale. 

Cut  a  fillet  as  in  the  last,  have  also  ready  boiled  a  nice 
ox-tongue  very  red;  you  have  also  prepared  about  two 
poimds  of  good  veal  forcemeat  (No.  120),  run  about  twenty 
pieces  of  fat  bacon  right  throiigh  the  thickest  part  of  the 
fillet,  surround  the  tongue  (trimmed  accordingly)  with  the 
forcemeat,  and'place  in  the  centre  of  the  fillet,  but  not  to  pro- 
trude out  of  it,  surround  it  with  slices  of  fat  bacon  and  roast 
it  in  vegetables  (see  Removes,  No.  417) ;  when  done  place  it 
on  a  dish  till  cold,  without  taking  away  the  paper  and  vege- 
tables, when  cold  take  it  out ;  trim  and  glaze  as  in  the 
last,  dress  on  your  dish,  and  garnish  with  croutons  of  aspic 
(No.  1360),  cut  according  to  taste,  surmount  it  with  six  small 
atelettes,  upon  each  of  which  you  have  placed  a  crawfish 
(No.  380),  truffle,  and  quenelle  de  veau  (No.  120),  it  is 
then  ready  to  serve ;  the  atelettes  must  be  fixed  upon  the 
rim  of  the  fiUel,  leaning  outwards  to  give  it  a  graceful  ap- 
pearance, some  of  them,  however,  must  be  taken  out  to 
carve. 

No.  996.  Loin  of  Veal  au  Jambon. 

Roast  a  nice  loin  in  vegetables,  in  which  let  it  remain 
till  cold,  have  also  a  good  ham  nicely  boiled,  from  which 
cut  twenty-four  croutons,  the  size  and  shape  of  small  fillets 
of  fowls,  dress  the  veal  in  the  centre  and  the  ham  round ; 
fill  a  large  saute-pan  with  aspic  (No.  1360),  which  set  upon 


1 


SAVOURY  DT8HS8.  421 

tiie  ice,  when  firni  dip  the  bottom  of  the  pan  in  warm  water 
and  turn  the  jelly  in  one  piece  over  the  loin,  have  also 
some  chopped,  with  which  garnish  the  ham. 

No.  997.  Zoin  of  Veal  a  la  Dame  Blanche. 

Roast  a  nice  loin  of  veal  as  in  the  last,  and  when  cold 
have  ready  the  following  sauce :  put  six  tablespoonfiils  of 
tarragon  vinegar  in  a  stewpan  with  a  blade  of  mace,  six 
doves,  six  peppercorns,  one  bay-leaf,  and  two  ounces  of 
raw  ham;  boil  altogether  three  minutes,  then  add  two 
quarts  of  sauce  bechamel  (No.  7)  and  a  pint  of  aspic 
(No.  1360),  reduce  till  rather  thick  over  a  sharp  fire,  keeping 
it  stirred,  pass  it  through  a  tammie  into  a  stewpan,  which 
place  upon  the  ice,  keep  it  stirred,  and  just  as  it  is  begin- 
ning to  set  stir  in  half  a  pint  of  whipped  cream,  pour  over 
the  loin,  which  stand  upon  the  ice  till  the  sauce  is  firm,  cut 
six  mild  Indian  pickles  into  pieces  of  equal  sizes,  which 
strew  carelessly  over  the  top. 

No.  998.   Galantine  de  Veau  an  Jambon. 

Bone  a  breast  of  veal  about  fifteen  inches  in  length,  cut  off* 
the  end  where  the  shoulder  was  taken  out,  and  cut  out  some 
of  the  meat  in  large  pieces  from  the  other,  so  as  to  leave  the 
skin  about  half  an  inch  in  thickness  ;  then  cut  the  meat  in 
strips  the  thickness  of  your  finger,  and  as  long  as  possible, 
with  a  corresponding  number  of  strips  of  fat  bacon  and  cooked 
ham ;  have  also  ready  three  pounds  of  forcemeat  (No.  120), 
lay  the  skin  of  the  breast  downwards,  open  on  the  dresser, 
spread  some  of  the  forcemeaj  down  the  centre  half  an  inch 
in  thickness,  leaving  good  room  at  the  ends  and  sides,  then 
put  a  layer  of  the  strips  alternately,  season  with  pepper  and 
salt  rather  high,  cover  again  with  forcemeat,  then  again  a 
layer  of  the  strips,  cover  the  whole  with  forcemeat,  then  cover 
the  flaps  over  and  sew  it  up  tight,  fold  it  in  a  sheet  of 


422  SAVOUEY  DI8HSS. 

paper  and  tie  it  up  in  a  cloth,  [daoe  it  in  a  stewpaa,  oover 
with  good  stock  (or  put  it  into  a  stewpan  in  which  you  are 
preparing  a  stock),  place  the  stewpan  over  the  fire,  and 
when  boiling  draw  it  to  the  comer,  where  let  simmer  three 
hours  and  a  half,  then  take  it  up,  untie  the  cloth,  and  turn 
the  gafantine  over,  from  which  take  off  the  paper,  fold  again 
in  the  doth,  but  be  careful  to  keep  the  sewn  side  np^per* 
most,  place  it  in  a  deep  didi  cnurounded  with  the  stock, 
place  a  flat  dish  upon  it,  upon  whidi  stand  a  fourteen 
pounds  weight ;  let  remain  till  quite  cold,  take  it  up,  trim, 
draw  out  the  string  it  was  sewn  with,  cut  off  the  ends, 
dress  it  in  the  centre  of  your  dish,  garnish  with  chopped 
aspic  (No.  1360)  in  a  roll,  round  outside  of  whidi  place  crou- 
tons of  the  same,  and  upon  the  top  of  the  galantine  dress 
smaller  croutons  of  aspic,  brown  and  white  alternately. 
Gkeikins  quartered  lengthwise  may  be  used  for  the  interior 
of  the  galantine.  Tlie  aapicmaybe  made  from  the  stodcthe 
galantine  is  cooked  in,  by  making  an  addition  of  two  calf's 
feet,  and  clarifying  it  as  directed. 

* 
No.  999.  Fate  de  Veau  au  Jambon, 

Have  ready  buttered  a  lai^  raised  pie  mould,*  make 
also  a  paste  with  five  pounds  of  flour  mixed  with  a  pint 
and  a  half  of  hot  water  in  which  you  have  dissolved  a  pound 
of  fresh  butter,  work  the  paste  vay  smooth  with  the 
hand ;  when  cold  hne  your  mould  with  it  three  quarters  of 
an  inch  in  thickness,  and  bringing  it  more  than  an  isdi 
above  the  top,  reserving  the  trimmings  for  a  cover,  line 
the  inside  of  the  pie  with  forcemeat  (No.  120)  haif  an 
inch  in  tiuckness ;  then  have  ready  larded  with  &t  bacon 
four  pounds  of  lean  veal,  wludi  you  have  cut  in  pieces  the 
leiaigl^  of  the  interior  of  your  pie,  and  two  inches  square, 

*  If  110  moidd,  put  half  a  pDund  less  butter  in  flie  paste  and  raise  the  pie  with 
yonrhmda,  making  a  bold  omameat  tomvi  and  upon  the  top. 


sAvopar  DisA^s.  433 

whieh  place  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
butter,  well  aeasoned  with  p^per,  salt,  and  four  bay^eaves, 
and  pass  them  twenty  miimtes  over  the  fire  until  well 
oov^:^  with  their  own  glaze ;  use  them  when  cold,  pouring 
the  gn»vy  from  them  into  the  pie ;  have  also  two  pounds  of 
cooked  ham,  fat  and  lean,  which  cut  as  near  as  possible 
ci  the  aame  size  as  the  veai,  lay  two  pieces  of  the  veal  at 
the  bottom  of  the  pie  with  a  piece  of  ham  between,  cover 
with  the  forcemeat,  and  proceed  in  like  manner  till  you 
have  filled  the  crust,  finishing  as  a  dome  above  the  edges 
of  the  pie,  which  raise  gracefully  with  your  fingers,  and 
crimp  with  a  pair  of  paste  pincers,  aft^  having  placed  on  a 
cover  of  paste  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  making  a 
hole  at  the  top ;  then  lay  an  oval  piece  upon  the  top  to 
f<»m  a  lid,  which  ornament  with  leaves  or  as  fancy  directs, 
bake  five  hours  in  a  sbw  oven,  then  cut  off  the  lid,  lay  an 
ovfd  pi^ce  of  tin  (made  for  th^  purpose)  upon  the  meat, 
upom  which  place  a  four  pounds  weight,  let  remain  till  the 
pie  is  odd,  then  take  out  of  the  mould,  glaze  the  top  and 
gjarmish  with  chopped  aspic  and  croutons  of  the  same ;  serv^ 
either  with  or  without  the  cover.  By  filling  the  pie  with 
strong  gravy  upon  taking  it  from  the  oven,  shaking  it  well, 
you  will  have  no  occasion  to  opean  or  press  it  to  carve  it, 
then  it  must  be  cut  in  thin  sHces  through  crust  and  all. 

No.  1000.  Cotelettea  de  Veau  a  la  St.  Gar  at 

Cut  six  nice  cotelettes  from  a  neck  of  veal,  of  a  nice  sluq)e, 
kyrd  l^m  through  ai^d  through  the  fillets  with  thiekish  pieces 
of  &t  bacon  and  cooked  tongue^  place  them  in  a  paute-pan, 
and  Qpver  with  a  good  veal  stock,  stew  gently  ovei*  a  slow 
^  till  tender,  lay  them  fiiat  in  a  dish,  pour  their  stpck 
over,  then  lay  another  dish  upon  them  and  press  lightly 
till  coldi  have  six  moulds  the  shape  and  large  enough  to 
contain  atotelette^  have  also  some  aspic  jelly  (No.  13d0), 


424  SAVOURY  DI8HB8. 

pour  a  little  in  each  mould  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep, 
place  them  on  a  dish  of  ice,  and  when  partly  set  form  a 
rosette  or  star  upon  each,  with  iBllets  of  hard-boiled  white 
ci  egg  and  truffles,  cover  them  with  a  litUe  more  as|nc  to 
keep  them  in  their  places,  and  when  set  firm  lay  a  cote- 
lette  upon  each,  fill  the  moulds  up  with  aspic  and  place 
them  on  the  ice  till  firm,  then  dip  them  in  hot  water  and 
turn  them  out  on  your  dish,  one  to  follow  the  other  in  a 
circle,  if  no  moulds  place  them  in  a  saute-pan,  cover  them 
with  aspic,  and  when  set  turn  them  out  upon  a  cloth  by 
dipping  the  bottom  of  the  pan  in  warm  water,  and  with  the 
point  of  a  knife  cut  them  out  of  equal  sizes. 

No.  1001.  Cotelettea  de  Veau  a  la  Princesse, 

Cut,  braise,  and  press  six  cotelettes  as  above,  make  a 
good  sauce  mayonnaise  a  la  gelee  (No.  1361),  and  when 
getting  stiff  dip  each  cotelette  in  so  that  it  is  well  covered, 
and  place  them  in  a  dish  upon  the  ice,  dress  salad  in 
pyramid  in  the  centre  of  a  flanc  dish,  against  which  lay  the 
cotelettes  with  a  small  paper  fiill  upon  the  bone  of  each, 
garnish  round  with  croutons  of  aspic  (No.  1360). 

No.  1002.  Etz  de  Veau  a  la  CAinotse. 

Lard  six  small  sweetbreads  as  directed  for  the  entree 
(No.  671),  which  braise,  keeping  them  a  very  light  colour, 
when  cold  have  some  very  white  aspic  (No.  1360),  and  six 
small  plain  round  moulds ;  cover  the  bottoms  of  the  moulds 
a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep  with  aspic,  when  partly  set  gar- 
nish round  with  rows  of  stoned  olives  and  pickled  mush- 
rooms, or  pieces  of  beetroot,  boiled  carrots,  turnips,  &c., 
according  to  fancy,  and  make  a  star  or  rosette  of  whites  or 
hard-boiled  eggs  in  the  centre,  cover  with  a  little  more  of 
the  aspic  and  when  set  firm  place  in  the  sweetbreads  (topsy- 
turvy) and  fill  up  with  aspic,  have  some  rice  well  bcnled 


SAVOURY  DISHES.  426 

and  dry,  (see  No.  129),  put  it  in  a  stewpan,  with  six  pats 
of  batter  and  some  pepper  and  salt,  when  the  butter  is 
melted  mix  well  together  and  place  it  to  get  cold  on  the 
ic^,  dress  it  in  pyramid  in  the  centre  of  a  flanc  dish,  dip  the 
moulds  in  warm  water,  and  turn  them  out  in  an  oval  circle 
round  the  rice,  placing  a  fine  cabbage  lettuce  upon  the  top. 

No.  1003.   Cotelettes  de  Movton  braise  auw  navets. 

Cut,  lard,  and  braise  twelve  mutton  cotelettes  as  directed 
(No.  722),  press  them  in  their  stock  Ughtly  like  the  veal 
cotelettes,  when  cold  trim  them  of  a  nice  shape,  you  have 
prepared  a  good  poivrade  sauce  (No.  32),  to  which  you 
have  added  half  a  pint  of  aspic  (No.  1360),  and  when  nearly 
cold  dip  in  the  cotelettes,  holding  them  by  the  bones, 
until  they  are  quite  enveloped,  dress  them  (when  quite 
cold)  upon  a  thin  border  of  fresh  butter,  garnish  with 
croutons  of  aspic,  and  serve  a  ragout  of  turnips  (No.  93) 
cold  in  the  centre. 

No.  1004.  Turban  de  Cotelette  de  Mouton  a  la  Fermiere, 

Bnuse,  press,  and  trim  the  cotelettes  as  in  the  last,  but 
instead  of  a  poivrade  reduce  a  good  maitre  d'hotel  sauce 
(No.  43),  to  which  add  half  a  pint  of  cream ;  when  nearly 
cold  dip  the  cotelettes  in  the  sauce,  place  them  on  the  ice 
till  somewhat  firm,  dress  them  in  crown  as  in  the  last,  then 
prepare  a  salad  with  half  a  beetroot,  one  cucumber,  one 
lettuce,  season  with  a  Uttle  oil,  vinegar,  pepper,  salt, 
chopped  tarragon  and  chervil ;  mix  all  well  together,  dress 
in  pyramid  in  the  centre  of  your  cotelettes,  which  garnish 
with  slices  of  cucumber  and  serve. 

No.  1005.   Carbonade  de  Mouton. 

Proceed  as  directed  (No.  577),  and  when  the  carbonade 
IS  cold  cut  it  in  sUces,  which  trim  and  dress  as  directed  in 
either  of  the  two  foregoing  receipts. 


426  SAYOUJUT  M8H£8. 

No.  1006.  BaUottins  SAgneau  ala  de  Bctzan. 

Take  two  very  white  small  shooldere  of  Iamb,  bone  tbem 
completely^  cut  off  acmie  of  the  meat  at  the  thickest  part» 
fio  as  to  give  only  a  quarter  of  aa  inch  in  thickness,  season 
the  inside  with  a  little  mixed  spice,  p^per,  salt,  and 
chopped  eschalots,  have  ready  some  forcemeat  as  directed 
(No.  120),  cover  the  shoulders  half  an  inch  in  thickness 
with  it,  then  lay  alternately  small  fiUets  of  oooked  tongue, 
isi  bacon,  and  lamb  cut  fromalcnn,  season  with  pepper  and 
salt,  cover  with  the  forcemeat,  then  another  lay^  of  tbe 
fillets,  then  forcemeat,  fold  it  over  and  sew  it  up,  givii^  it 
the  form  of  an  egg ;  when  both  done  tie  them  in  na^ddns 
and  braise  in  good  stock,  try  when  done  with  a  larding- 
pin,  if  tender  take  them  out,  press  all  ways'  alike  to  keep 
the  shape  of  eggs,  when  cold  take  them  out  of  the  napkins, 
draw  out  the  string  and  dress  the  two  on  one  dish  in  a 
slanting  direction,  stick  an  atelette  at  each  end,  have  ready 
some  aspic  (No.  1360),  or  it  may  be  made  from  the  stock 
by  adding  two  calf's  feet  to  it,  cover  the  bottom  of  a  saute- 
pan  with  some  of  it,  let  set  on  the  ioe,  then  arrange  fifty 
piokled  mushrooms  and  fifty  stoned  olives  over,  fill  up  the 
saute-pan  and  place  it  on  the  ice,  wh^i  set  cut  it  in  crou- 
tons, with  which  ganush  the  ballotins. 

No.  1007.  BaUottins  a  la  Catalanaise. 

Prepare  them  exactly  as  in  the  last ;  when  cold  put  a 
quart  of  sauce  bedbamel  (No.  7)  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  g^ 
of  white  wine,  half  a  glass  of  vinegar,  and  half  a  pint  of 
consomme,  reduce  till  rather  thick,  add  a  little  ismglass 
dissolved  in  water  and  pass  it  through  a  tammie  into  a 
clean  stewpan,  place  the  stewpan  upon  the  fire,  and  when 
boiUiag  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  maitre  d'hotel  batter 
(No.  79),  in  which  you  have  introduced  a  tablespoonful  of 


8AVOURT  DISHES.  427 

chopped  tarragon  and  chervil ;  when  the  butter  is  melted 
finish  with  a  little  cream,  place  it  by  to  cool,  and  when 
upon  the  point  of  setting  ponr  it  over  the  ballottins,  place 
them  npon  the  ice  till  the  sanoe  is  qnite  firm,  then  garnish 
tastefolly  with  croutons  of  aspic  (No.  1860)  and  place  an 
atelette  at  each  end. 

No.  1008.  Cotdette^^AgnemalaGdee. 

Take  the  chine  bones  from  two  necks  of  lamb  and  saw 
the  ribs  rather  short,  the  length  you  would  require  your  co- 
telettes,  lard  the  fillets  and  roast  them  in  vegetables,  do  not 
take  them  out  until  quite  cold,  cut  your  cotelettes  fixHn  them 
of  a  nice  shape,  reduce  a  good  demi  Proven^ale  sauce 
(No.  84),  with  which  envelope  each  cotelette,  when  cold 
and  the  sauce  is  set  dress  them  in  crown  upon  your  dish 
with  chopped  aspic  (No.  1360)  in  the  oentn  and  cnntoss 
of  the  same  round. 

No.  1009.  CoteletteB  d' Jgneau  froid  a  la  Princease. 

Prepare  two  necks  of  lamb  as  above,  from  which  cut  the 
cotelettes,  glaze,  dress  them  in  crown  the  reverse  way, 
sauce  over  with  a  very  white  mayonnaise  sauce  (No.  1364), 
sprinkle  chopped  gherkins  and  chopped  ham  over. 

No.  1010.  Galantine  de  Dinde. 

Pluck  and  draw  a  turkey,  bone  it  as  directed  for  the  pou- 
lardes  (No.  514),  spread  it  open  upon  the  dresser,  have 
ready  some  forcemeat  as  directed  (No.  120),  spread  some 
down  the  centre  of  the  turkey,  (you  have  previously  turned 
the  1^  inside,)  half  an  inch  in  thickness,  have  ready  some 
long  strips  of  lean  veal  the  thickness  of  your  finger  and  the 
length  of  the  turkey,  have  also  strips  of  lean  cooked  ham 
and  lat  bacon,  lay  tliem  alternately  upon  the  forcemeat, 
season  with  pepper  and  salt,  then  cover  with  a  layer  of 


428  SAVOURY  DISHES. 

forcemeat,  and  ao  on  till  you  have  as  much  as  the  bird  will 
contain,  finishing  with  forcemeat,  pull  the  flaps  over  and 
sew  it  up  with  packthread,  tie  it  up  in  a  napkin  and  roll  it, 
to  press  it  of  the  same  proportions,  put  it  in  a  atewpan, 
with  a  few  vegetables  of  each  sort,  and  cover  with  good 
stock,  (or  stew  it  in  a  veal  stock  you  may  be  preparing 
for  a  white  sauce  or  soup,)  stew  two  hours  and  a  half  or 
till  tender,  which  try  with  a  larding-pin,  take  it  up,  untie 
the  string,  open  the  cloth,  see  that  the  part  wh&re  it  is 
sewn  up  is  at  the  top,  wrap  it  again  in  the  napkin  but  tie 
it  only  at  each  end,  set  it  in  a  deep  dish  surrounded  with 
Gome  of  the  stock,  set  another  dish  upon  it  and  press  it  tOl 
cold  with  a  fourteen  pounds  weight,  make  an  aspic,  using 
some  of  the  stock  it  was  cooked  in  as  directed  (No.  1360), 
dress  the  galantme  upon  a  dish,  surround  it  with  the  aspic 
chopped  and  in  croutons,  and  form  a  star  of  aspic  upon  the 
top,  or  garnish  in  any  other  design  your  fancy  may  direct. 

No.  1011.   Galantine  de  Dinde  auw/oies^as. 

Proceed  exactly  as  above,  using  fillets  of  rabbits  instead 
of  veal,  and  interspersing  eight  fat  livers  of  poulardes  in  the 
interior. 

No.  1012.   Galantine  de  Dinde  a  la  Foliere, 

Bone  a  very  young  turkey,  and  proceed  exactly  as  in  the 
last,  usiag  two  ounces  of  pistachios,  blanched  and  skinned, 
and  half  a  pound  of  truffles  cut  into  thick  fiUets,  instead  of 
the  livers,  when  stuffed  and  sewn  up  roll  it  very  tight  in 
a  cloth,  which  also  tie  very  tight,  especially  at  the  tail, 
which  requires  to  be  made  so  much  narrower ;  stew  as  be- 
fore, when  done  take  it  out  of  the  napkin,  see  that  the  part 
where  it  is  sewn  shall  be  at  the  bottom,  tie  it  again  in  the 
napkin,  but  only  at  the  ends,  lay  it  in  a  deep  dish  sur- 
rounded with  the  stock  it  was  stewf'd  in,  place  a  dish  slant- 


SAVOURY  BTSHBS.  429 

wise  upon  it  (to  press  the  tail  thinner),  upon  which  place  a 
ten  pounds  weight;  when  cold  take  it  from  the  napkin,  draw 
out  the  string  and  place  it  upon  a  dish ;  you  have  saved 
one  of  the  legs  of  the  turkey,  cut  the  foot  off  an  inch  and  a 
half  below  the  knuckle,  with  which  form  the  head  and  neck 
of  the  bird ;  should  the  leg  of  the  bird  not  be  of  sujficient 
length  make  it  higher  by  fixing  it  upon  a  wooden  skewer, 
place  it  at  the  thickest  end  of  the  galantine,  covering  it 
with  some  of  the  forcemeat  (which  you  have  blanched  and 
mixed  with  ahttle  hot  glaze),  make  of  the  size  and  as 
nearly  as  possible  in  imitation  of  the  real  head  and  neck, 
stick  the  two  claws  of  a  convenient-sized  lobster  in  the  sides 
for  wings,  and  with  the  tail  of  the  lobster  form  the  tail  of 
the  bird ;  surround  it  with  chopped  aspic  (No.  1360)  in  rolls, 
over  which  lay  thin  slices  of  it  to  imitate  waves,  and 
surround  with  croutons  of  the  same ;  it  is  then  ready  to 
serve. 

No.  1013.  Pate  de  IHnde  au  blanc  de  Volatile. 

Bone  a  small  turkey  and  line  the  interior  with  forcemeat 
(No.  120),  you  have  prepared  a  mould  as  for  pate  de  veau 
(No.  999),  but  using  p&te  a  fine,  or  pate  a  dresser  (Nos. 
1135, 1136),  instead  of  the  pate  there  directed,  the  interior  of 
which  also  line  with  forcemeat,  trim  a  nice  red  ox-tonguc 
(cooked),  cut  it  about  the  length  of  the  turkey,  cover  with 
tinckish  shces  of  fat  bacon,  roll  it  up  in  the  turkey,  which 
place  in  the  pie,  cover  with  a  slice  of  fat  bacon,  and  again 
with  forcemeat  in  a  dome,  finish  the  pie  and  bake  as  di- 
rected (No.  999);  make  a  stock  with  the  bones  of  the 
turkey,  with  which  make  a  sauce  as  directed  (No.  57),  do  not 
press  the  meat  in  the  pie,  but  when  three  parts  cold  pour  in 
the  sauce,  put  it  in  the  larder  till  quite  cold,  and  serve 
either  with  or  without  aspic  (No.  1360)  on  the  top. 

Oalantines  may  also  be  made  of  geese  (when  young)  or 


430  SAVOURY  DISHKS. 

pat^,  b  J  following  the  reoopts  for  t^  galantines  or  p&tes  of 
turkey,  and  adding  a  little  sage  and  onion  to  the  forcemeat. 
Poulardes,  capons,  and  fowls  are  also  used  for  galantmea 
in  either  of  the  ways  directed  for  turkey. 

No.  1014.   Galantine  de  Potdarde  a  la  Persane. 

Make  a  galantine  as  directed  (No.  998),  have  ready 
some  grated  crust  of  bread,  with  which  mix  an  ounce  of 
chopped  pistachios ;  when  the  galantine  is  cold  glaze  it  well, 
and  throw  the  crumbs  and  pistachios  all  ov^,  have  ready 
some  aspic  (No.  1360),  put  aUttle  in  a  plain  oval  mould, 
about  half  ksx  inch  in  depth,  when  set  form  a  rosette  of 
hard-boiled  whites  of  eggs  and  truffles,  by  cutting  them 
with  cutters ;  cover  with  a  little  more  jelly,  so  as  to  make 
it  an  inch  and  a  quarter  in  thickness,  the  mould  must  not 
be  quite  so  large  an  oval  as  the  galantine ;  when  the  aspic 
is  set  turn  it  out  of  the  mould  upon  the  top  of  the  galan- 
tine, and  precisely  in  the  centre,  dress  also  croutons  of  aspic 
around,  and  stick  an  atelette  at  each  end,  upon  each  of 
which  you  have  placed  a  crawfish  and  a  small  hard-boiled 
egg,  shelled  and  ornamented  with  wreaths  of  truffles. 

But  galantines  may  be  ornamented  in  several  elegant 
ways,  entirely  depending  upon  the  taste  of  the  indivi- 
dual ;  for  instance,  the  aspic  may  not  only  be  out  in  dif- 
ferent shaped  croutons,  but  you  may  have  them  variegated, 
(see  aspics ;)  besides  the  number  of  tasty  designs  which  may 
be  worked  with  egg,  truffle,  pistachios,  anchovies,  and  vari- 
ous things  of  that  description  with  which  aspics  may  be 
ornamented ;  but  in  all  cases  let  neatness  be  your  object, 
and  avoid  confusion  or  multiplicity  of  colours. 

With  the  remains  of  a  galantine  of  aAy  description  you 
may  make  an  excellent  and  elegant  dish,  by  cutting  twenty 
pieces  the  size  and  shape  of  fillets  of  fowl ;  put  some  aspio 
a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  depth  intaa  large  saute-pan,  stand 


SAVOURY  BISHSS.  431 

it  on  the  ice  to  set,  then  form  twenty  stars,  or  rosettes,  with 
truffles,  lay  a  piece  of  the  galantine  over  each,  which  again 
cover  with  aspic ;  when  firm  dip  the  pan  in  warm  water,  and 
turn  out  its  contents  npon  a  clean  cloth,  cut  out  each  fillet 
with  a  cntter  dipped  in  hot  water,  dress  them  in  crown  round 
your  dish  upon  a  thin  border  of  anchovy  butter,  have  ready 
a  salad  prepared  thus  :  half  a  dressed  beetroot  cut  in  sUces, 
a  sliced  cucumber,  the  white  of  two  nice  lettuces,  and  six 
fOlets  of  anchovies,  season  with  a  Uttle  oil,  vinegar,  pepper, 
salt,  and  chopped  tarragon  and  chervil,  mix  well  together, 
dress  it  in  pyramid  in  the  centre  of  the  dish,  dress  a  border 
of  hard-boiled  eggs  around  upon  the  top  of  the  galantine, 
and  finish  the  top  with  chopped  aspic,  the  galantine  may 
also  be  cut  as  above,  and  dressed  plain  with  the  salad  in 
the  centre,  and  garnished  round  with  croutons  of  aspic. 

No.  1015.  Pate  de  Volatile  auw  truffeM. 

line  a  raised  pie-mould  with  pate  fine  (No.  1136)  as  di- 
rected, but  you  will  not  require  so  large  a  mould ;  line  the 
pie  with  forcemeat  (No.  120),  you  have  previously  boned 
a  small  fowl,  which  stuff  as  for  galantine  ^  la  voUere  (No. 
1032),  seasoning  it  rather  highly,  but  it  will  not  require 
sewing  up ;  having  filled  it,  place  it  in  your  pie,  cover  with 
forcemeat)  forming  a  dome,  finish  the  pie  as  directed  for 
p6t^  de  veau,  bake  two  hours  and  a  half  in  a  slow  oven, 
take  it  out,  cut  off  the  lid,  lay  a  sheet  of  tin  upon  the  meat 
(made  for  that  purpose),  upon  which  place  a  seven  pounds 
weight,  let  remain  until  cold,  then  take  your  pie  out  of  the 
mould  ttid  serve  with  croutons  and  chopped  aspic  (No. 
1360)  upon  the  top. 

No.  1016.  Pouktrdeg  a  la  Mazagran, 

Procure  two  nice  poulardes,  which  roast  in  vegetables, 
(with  wliieh  you  have  mingled  two  glasses  of  sherry,)  as 


432  SAVOURY  DISHES. 

for  the  removes  in  first  course,  when  done  take  them  up 
and  keep  them  in  the  vegetables  till  quite  cold,  which  will 
keep  them  white ;  you  have  previously  boiled,  trussed,  and 
carved  a  branch  of  laurel  or  palm  upon  a  tongue  (No.  991), 
fix  an  elegant  Greek  croustade  of  bread  at  the  head  of  the 
dish ;  you  have  previously  made  two  quarts  of  sauce  becha- 
mel a  la  creme  (No.  56),  veiy  savoury  and  well  reduced ; 
when  three  parts  cold  dip  the  poulardes  into  it  with  a  fork, 
take  them  out  quite  enveloped  with  the  sauce  and  put  them 
in  the  larder  till  cold,  then  dress  them  on  your  dish  their 
tails  to  the  croustade,  their  breasts  protruding  outwards, 
place  the  tongue  between,  the  root  facing  the  other  end  of 
the  dish ;  you  have  prepared  three  atelettes  with  a  crawfish, 
cockscomb,  and  truffle  upon  each,  stick  one  upright  in  the 
croustade,  and  the  other  two  in  the  root  of  the  tongue, 
glaze  the  tongue  nicely,  and  garnish  round  with  bold  crou- 
tons of  aspic  (No.  1360)  of  a  very  Ught  colour. 

No.  1017.  Poulardes  a  la  Banquiere, 

Prepare  two  poulardes  and  tongue  as  in  the  last ;  you 
have  reduced  a  quart  of  good  demi-glace  (No.  9),  with  a 
pint  of  sauce  tomate  (No.  37)  and  a  pint  of  aspic  (No.  1 360), 
keeping  it  stirred ;  when  about  three  parts  cold  dip  in  the 
poulardes,  place  them  on  your  dish  and  pour  the  remainder 
of  the  sauce  over,  let  get  cold,  then  place  on  the  tongue 
and  croustade  with  the  atelettes  garnished  similar  to  the 
last ;  you  have  previously  procured  thirty  fine  cockscombs, 
thirty  button  mushrooms,  as  many  small  truffles,  as  many 
small  quenelles  (No.  120),  and  two  throat-breads  cut  in  as 
many  slices;  when  quite  cooked  have  ready  a  quart  of 
bechamel  sauce  (No.  7)  well  reduced  with  half  a  pint  of 
aspic,  add  a  gill  of  whipped  cream,  and  when  three  parts 
cold  dip  the  above  garniture  into  it,  one  piece  at  a  time,  and 
lay  them  on  a  dish  in  the  ice,  when  set  rather  firm  garnish 


SAYOURT  DI8HS8.  48  S 

the  poolardes  very  tast^iilly  with  them,  placmg  here  and 
there  the  heart  of  a  young  cos  lettuce. 

No.  1018.  Poidets  Printanier  a  la  Santa  Cruz. 

Procure  four  spring  chickens  nicely  trussed  as  for  boiling, 
hrd  the  breast  of  each  with  cooked  tongue  and  truffles  to 
form  a  cross,  tie  them  in  oiled  paper  and  roast,  leave  them 
in  the  paper  till  cold ;  you  have  also  boiled  two  Russian 
ox  tongues,  spUt  each  one  in  halves  lengthwise  and  trim 
them  neatly  to  give  them  the  shape  of  small  tongues,  pre- 
pare also  a  croustade  of  bread  in  the  form  of  a  pyramid, 
eight  inches  ia  height  and  three  in  width  at  the  bottom, 
place  it  in  the  centre  of  your  dish  with  an  atelette  upon  the 
top,  place  a  chicken  resting  upon  the  breast,  tail  uppermost, 
at  each  side  upon  a  little  cold  mashed  potatoes,  and  the 
tongue  at  the  four  comers,  pour  a  red  sauce  mayonnaise 
(No.  1363)  over  the  chickens  but  not  to  cover  the  cross, 
glaze  the  tongues  lightly,  and  garnish  round  the  edges  with 
rolls  of  chopped  aspic. 

No.  1019.  Poulets  Printanier  a  la  Princesse  jRoyale. 

Prepare  your  chickens  and  tongues  as  in  the  last,  but  do 
not  lard  them,  dish  them  the  same,  make  a  border  of  plo- 
vers' eggs  round,  placing  little  heads  of  cos  lettuce  between, 
sauce  over  the  chickens  with  a  very  white  mayonnaise 
sauce  and  Ughtly  glaze  the  tongues. 

No.  1020.  Poularde  a  la  GuiUaume  Tell. 

Procure  a  fine  poularde,  bone  it  carefuDy,  season  the 
interior  with  chopped  eschalots,  pepper,  and  salt,  cover 
with  a  little  forcemeat  (No.  120);  you  have  previously 
boiled  a  tongue,  when  cold  cut  off  the  root,  trim  and  cut 
it  in  large  dice,  which  riax  with  forcemeat  and  stuff  the 
pouhrde  with  it,  cover  over  the  flaps  and  sew  the  poularde 

28 


434  SAVOURY  DISHES. 

in  its  original  shape,  tie  it  up  in  a  napkin  and  braise  it 
in  good  stock,  to  which  you  have  added  two  calf's  feet, 
stew  two  hours  and  a  half,  take  it  up  and  press  it  lightly, 
when  cold  draw  out  the  packthread,  reduce  the  stock  to  a 
demi-glace  but  keep  it  as  clear  as  possible,  procure  a  mould 
large  ei\ough  to  contain  the  poularde,  and  an  inch  higher, 
place  it  on  the  ice,  pour  in  a  little  of  the  stock  a  quarter  of 
an  inch  in  thickness,  w^hen  it  sets  throw  in  sonoie  truffles 
and  hard-boiled  whites  of  eggs  cut  in  dice,  then  lay  in  the 
poularde,  which  cover  with  the  remainder  of  the  stock, 
when  set  firm  dip  the  mould  in  warm  water  and  turn  it 
out  on  your  dish,  garnish  round  with  chopped  aspic  and 
croutons,  and  stick  three  atelettes  ornamented  upon  the 
top,  two  slantingly  at  the  ends,  and  one  upright  in  the 
centre. 

No.  1021.   Chaudfroidde  Poularde, 

Cut  a  nice  capon  or  poularde  into  two  fillets,  two  good 
wings,  two  legs,  and  two  pieces  of  back,  lay  them  in  luke- 
warm water  one  hour  to  disgorge,  wash  well,  then  put  them 
in  a  stewpan,  cover  with  two  quarts  of  good  veal  stock,  add 
two  middling-sized  onions,  with  a  clove  stuck  in  each,  a 
bunch  of  parsley,  and  a  blade  of  mace,  set  on  the  fire  till 
boiling,  then  set  it  on  the  comer,  skim,  and  let  simmer 
very  gently  nearly  an  hour ;  take  them  out,  and  drain  them 
upon  a  cloth,  then  in  another  stewpan  make  a  white  roux 
(No.  7),  as  for  white  sauce,  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  and 
when  partly  cold  add  the  stock  to  it;  boil  well,  keeping 
it  stirred  all  the  time ;  if  too  thick,  add  a  little  more  good 
stock ;  but  it  requires  to  be  rather  thickish ;  add  a  little  sugar, 
four  pats  of  butter,  and  a  gill  of  cream ;  put  the  pieces  of 
poularde  in  a  deep  dish,  with  thirty  button  onions,  which 
you  have  previously  peeled  and  stewed  in  a  little  white 
stock,  pass  the  sauce  through  a  tammie  over,   and  let 


SAVOURY  DISHES.  435 

them  remain  till  quite  cold,  dress  a  little  salad  upon  a  flanc 
dish,  upon  which  dress  the  pieces  pyramidically,  forming 
small  pyramids  here  and  there  with  the  onions,  and  placing 
a  small  sprig  of  parsley  upon  each,  garnish  with  croutons  of 
aspic  (No.  1360)  cut  rather  bold. 

No.  1022.   Chandfroid  de  Poularde  a  la  Pembroke. 

Proceed  as  above,  adding  twenty  button  mushrooms  with 
the  onions  you  have  chopped,  a  good-sized  truffle,  and  a 
piece  of  very  red  tongue,  which  sprinkle  over  each  piece  as 
you  dish  them  up. 

No.  1023.  Chaudfroid  de  Potdarde  en  mayonnaise. 

Prepare  as  above,  dress  in  a  bordure  upon  the  salad, 
sauce  over  with  a  mayonnaise  a  la  gelee  (No.  1361),  and 
place  a  large  truffle,  with  a  cockscomb  upon  it,  at  the  top. 

This  dish  may  also  be  made  with  the  remains  of  poulardes 
from  a  previous  dinner,  by  cutting  them  in  neat  pieces  and 
dipping  them  into  a  good  bechamel  sauce  (No.  7),  well 
reduced  and  half  cold ;  when  the  sauce  is  set,  proceed  as 
before. 

No.  1024.  Filets  de  Poulardes  a  la  Nesselrode. 

Take  the  four  fillets  from  two  poulardes,  as  directed 
(No.  792),  lay  them  in  a  saute-pan  with  plenty  of  butter, 
season  with  a  Uttle  pepper,  salt,  and  lemon-juice,  and  saute 
them  gently  over  a  slow  fire ;  when  done  place  them  on  a 
dish,  with  another  dish  upon  them,  till  quite  cold,  then  with 
a  thin  knife  spht  each  fillet  into  two ;  have  ready  a  quart  of 
good  bechamel  sauce  (No.  7),  add  a  pint  of  white  stock,  in 
which  you  have  stewed  the  bones  from  the  poulardes,  reduce 
again  to  a  quart,  then  stir  in  a  hfiison  of  one  yolk  of  egg, 
mixed  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream ;  stir  over  the  fire 
half  a  minute,  then  pass  it  through  a  tammie ;  dip  each 


430  SAVOURY  DISHES. 

fillet  in  the  sauce,  and  lay  them,  when  peifecily  enyebped, 
npon  a  dish  till  cold;  you  have  previously  soaked  and 
boiled  two  Russian  pickled  tongues ;  when  cold  cut  dght 
pieces  from  them  the  size  of  the  fillets,  which  glaze  lightly ; 
dress  a  border  of  eggs  (hard  boiled)  upon  a  flanc  dish,  which 
tastefully  ornament  with  small  fillets  of  anchovies  upon  the 
top  of  each  piece  of  egg,  and  rings  of  beetroot  around, 
surround  it  with  croutons  of  aspic,  fill  the  centre  with  some 
salad  nicely  seasoned,  dress  the  fillets  and  tongue  alternately 
upon  the  top  in  crown,  and  sauce  mayonnaise  (No.  1361) 
in  the  centre. 

No.  1025.  Filets  de  Poulardes  a  la  Bcmgote, 

Fillet  three  poulardes  and  dress  them  as  in  tiie  last,  but 
add  two  ounces  of  ravigote  butt^  (No.  80)  with  the  sauce 
you  dip  them  in,  dish  them  the  same  but  omit  the  tongue, 
and  sauce  with  a  green  mayonnaise  (No.  1363). 

No.  1026.  PetiU  Canetons  en  aspic. 

After  having  used  the  fillets  for  either  of  the  preceding 
dishes,  take  off  the  legs  with  as  much  of  the  skin  as  possiUe, 
bone  and  spread  them  out  before  you,  have  ready  some 
forcemeat  (No.  120),  to  which  add  two  chopped  truffles, 
put  a  good  tablespoonful  upon  each  leg,  then  sew  them 
round  with  packthread ;  when  done  place  them  in  a  stew- 
pan,  with  two  onions  sliced,  a  little  lean  ham,  a  sprig  of 
thyme,  parsley,  and  bay-leaf,  add  rather  more  than  a  pint 
of  stock,  and  stew  them  very  gently  one  hour  over  a  dow 
fire ;  when  done  place  them  in  a  dish  with  their  stock,  place 
another  dish  upon  them  and  press  very  lightly ;  you  have 
saved  and  half  stewed  the  bones  fix>m  the  legs,  with  whidi 
you  may  easily  form  the  heads  and  neck,  stick  them  into 
the  thicker  end  of  the  birds,  form  the  wings  and  tails 
with  the  olaws  and  tails  of  crawfish,  in  imiitation  of  little 


SAVOURY  DIBHBB.  437 

ducklings,  dress  them  to  form  a  cross  upon  a  round  dish, 
and  garnish  with  aspic  chopped  and  in  croutons ;  four  will 
be  sufiScient  for  an  entremet,  and  eight  for  a  flanc ;  they 
likewise  make  handsome  garniture  for  larger  dishes. 

No.  1027.  Salade  de  Volatile. 

Eoast  a  poularde  or  large  fowl  in  vegetables ;  when  done 
and  quite  cold  cut  it  into  ten  fine  pieces,  place  it  in  a  basin, 
with  a  large  onion  sUced,  a  little  oil,  vinegar,  pepper,  and 
salt,  toss  them  over  occasionally,  allowing  them  to  remain 
an  hour ;  you  have  dressed  a  border  of  hard-boiled  eggs  upon 
a  thin  border  of  butter,  garnish  round  with  half  slices  of 
cucumber,  gherkins,  and  beetroot,  and  place  a  fillet  of 
anchovy  upon  each  piece  of  egg,  fill  the  interior  with  salad 
cut  rather  fine,  upon  which  build  the  pieces  of  fowl  in 
pyramid,  (dipping  each  piece  into  the  sauce,)  the  best  pieces 
at  the  top,  and  just  as  you  send  it  to  table  sauce  over  with 
a  sauce  mayonnaise  (No.  1363). 

No.  1028.  Salade  de  Filets  de  Poularde  a  la  JBrunow. 

Cut  the  fiesh  from  a  poularde  into  slices  as  near  as  pos- 
sible the  size  of  half-crown  pieces,  cut  also  some  slices  of 
cucumber,  which  stew  in  white  stock  with  a  little  sugar  till 
quite  tender ;  when  done  drain  upon  a  sieve,  and  add  them 
to  the  sUces  of  fowl,  also  a  few  peas  well  boiled,  if  in  season ; 
put  a  pint  of  bechamel  sauce  (No.  7)  in  a  stewpan,  with  a 
pint  of  aspic  (No.  1360)  and  a  little  sugar,  boil  altogether 
until  rather  thick,  keeping  it  stirred,  then  add  the  blan- 
quette  of  fowl  with  the  vegetables,  shake  the  stewpan 
round  and  pour  the  whole  -into  a  saute-pan,  which  place 
upon  the  ice ;  when  quite  set  dip  it  in  warm  water  and 
turn  it  out  on  a  clean  cloth,  cut  it  in  middling-sized  pieces 
of  a  diamond  shape  and  dress  upon  a  salad  prepared  as  in 
the  last ;  dress  them  in  crown  and  sauce  tartare  (No.  38) 


438  SAYOURT  DISHES. 

in  the  centre,  making  the  sauce  white  by  uang  English 
mustard  instead  of  French,  and  adding  a  spoonful  of 
whipped  cream. 

No.  1029.  Poulets  Printaniers  a  la  MasanieUo. 

Bone  two  spring  chickens  without  opening  them  at  the 
back,  have  some  good  veal  forcemeat  (No.  120)  and  an  ox- 
tongue well  boiled,  which  cut  into  two  pieces,  trim  them 
and  place  one  piece  in  each  chicken,  fill  the  remaining 
space  up  with  forcemeat,  tie  them  in  a  thin  cloth  and  stew 
them  an  hour  or  rather  more  in  good  veal  stock  (No.  7), 
lay  them  on  a  dish  breasts  downwards  and  press  them 
lightly,  place  a  little  aspic  (No.  1360)  at  the  bottom  of  a 
plain  oval  mould  large  enough  to  contain  one  of  the 
chickens ;  when  it  sets  lay  in  the  chicken  and  cover  with 
more  aspic,  dip  the  other  chicken  into  a  sauce  bechamel 
a  la  creme  (No.  56) ;  when  the  sauce  is  about  half  cold  and 
quite  set  place  a  croustade  of  bread  (representing  a  fishing- 
boat)  in  the  centre,  with  a  chicken  on  each  side ;  having 
turned  out  the  one  in  the  aspic,  stick  three  atelettes  in  the 
croustade  ornamented  with  a  large  quenelle  de  volaille,  a 
truffle,  and  a  cockscomb ;  sauce  round  with  a  very  white 
mayonnaise  sauce.  The  mast  in  the  croustade  must  be 
made  of  pate  d'office  (see  plate  containing  the  designs  for 
croustades). 

No.  1030.  Motde  d' Aspic  a  la  JRoyale. 

Cut  the  flesh  fi"om  the  breast  of  a  poukrde  or  large  fowl 
into  slices  the  size  of  half-crown  pieces  as  near  as  possible, 
cut  also  a  large  truffle  in  slices,  have  about  twenty  very 
white  button  mushrooms,  and  ten  dressed  cockscombs, 
boil  a  quart  of  sauce  bechamel  (No.  7)  with  a  pint  of  aspic, 
keeping  it  stirred  until  rather  thick,  add  a  little  sugar  and 
the  above  ragout,  shake  the  stewpan  round  and  pour  the 


SAVOURY  DISHES.  439 

whole  into  a  saute-pan,  which  place  upon  the  ice  till  firm, 
dip  the  pan  in  warm  water  and  turn  it  out  upon  a  clean 
doth, — it  should  be  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thick- 
ness,— with  an  oval  cutter  an  inch  and  a  half  long  and 
one  broad,  cut  it  into  as  many  pieces  as  possible ;  have 
ready  a  flat  round  mould  with  a  cylinder,  put  a  little  aspic 
at  the  bottom,  which  decorate  with  whites  of  eggs  (hard- 
boiled)  and  truffles,  place  it  on  the  ice  and  when  set  dress 
in  the  fillets  in  crown,  fill  the  mould  with  the  aspic,  keep  it 
on  the  ice  till  ready,  when  dip  the  mould  in  warm  water 
and  turn  it  out  upon  your  dish. 

No.  1031.   Galantine  de  Faisan  aux  truffes. 

Bone  two  pheasants  if  for  a  flanc,  one  if  for  a  cold  entree, 
lay  it  out  before  you  and  proceed  exactly  as  for  a  galantine 
of  turkey,  only  using  the  forcemeat  for  game  (No.  123)  as 
directed,  and  fillets  of  hare  or  rabbit  instead  of  veal,  braise 
and  press  the  same,  allowing  for  the  difference  in  size,  serve 
garnished  with  aspic  (No.  1860)  chopped  and  in  croutons. 

No.  1032.   Galantine  de  Faisans  a  la  Voliere. 

Proceed  as  in  the  last,  but  press  and  garnish  them  as 
directed  for  galantine  de  dinde  (No.  1010),  but  the  claws 
must  be  from  a  very  small  lobster. 

No.  1033.  Pate  de  Faisana  aiuv  truffes. 

Bone  a  couple  of  pheasants  and  fill  each  one  as  for  a 
galantine,  but  not  too  tight,  they  will  not  require  sewing 
up;  you  have  lined  a  raised  pie-mould  with  pate  fine 
(No.  1136),  as  directed  (No.  #87),  line  the  pie  with  force- 
meat (No  120),  place  one  of  the  pheasants  at  the  bottom, 
cover  it  with  forcemeat,  then  put  in  the  other  which  also 
cover  with  forcemeat,  finishing  in  a  dome ;  finish  the  pie  as 
before  directed,  bake  it  four  hours  in  a  slow  oven,  press  it 


440  SAYOUET  DISHES. 

tin  cold  and  serve  with  aspic  (No.  1360)  chopped  and  in 
croutons  upon  the  top ;  by  filling  the  pie  up  with  good  strong 
stock  when  taken  firom  the  oven  th^re  would  be  no  neces- 
sity for  pressing  it. 

No.  1034.  FUeta  deFaiaam  a  la  Prince  George. 

Roast  three  pheasants  in  v^etables  quite  white,  take  out 
the  fillets,  cut  each  one  in  halves  to  form  two,  making 
twelve,  pound  well  the  meat  from  the  1^,  and  put  it  into 
a  stewpan,  vdth  a  quart  of  white  sauce  (No.  7)  and  half  a 
pint  of  good  white  stock,  boil  till  rather  thick,  then  rub 
it  through  a  tammie,  pour  into  a  stewpan,  place  over  the 
fire,  and  stir  until  boiling,  then  add  a  liaison  of  two  yolks  of 
eggs  mixed  with  half  a  gill  of  whipped  cream,  stir  in 
quickly  but  do  not  let  it  boil  afterwards,  place  it  by  in  a 
basin,  and  when  half  cold  dip  each  fillet  in  with  a  fork,  let 
it  be  quite  enveloped  and  place  them  by  till  quite  cold ; 
you  have  prepared  a  border  of  forcemeat  as  directed  for 
ris  de  veau  a  la  turque  (No.  673),  place  it  on  your  dish 
and  dress  the  fillets  in  crown  upon  it,  have  ready  turned 
and  blanched  a  pottle  of  good  white  button  mushrooms, 
mix  them  with  the  remainder  of  the  sauce,  whip  half  a  pint 
of  aspic  (No.  1360)  upon  the  ice  till  becoming  very  light 
and  white,  mix  it  with  the  sauce,  which  dress  in  the  centre 
of  your  fillets  and  garnish  round  with  a  light  border  of  the 
hearts  of  lettuces. 

Fillets  of  pheasants  may  also  be  served  with  a  sauce 
macedoioe  de  legtmies  as  directed  (No.  98)  but  cold. 

No.  1035.  Chaudfimd  de  Filets  de  Faisans. 

Proceed  with  the  pheasants  precisely  as  in  the  last,  only 
using  a  sauce  gibier  (No.  60)  instead  of  the  sauce  becha- 
mel, dress  them  in  turban  in  the  centre  of  your  dish,  pour 


SAYOURT  DISHES.  441 

a  little  more  of  the  sauce  over,  and  garnish  with  a  border 
of  hard-boiled  eggs,  placing  a  sprig  of  parsley  between. 

No.  1036.  Grouse 

Lake  pheasants  make  excellent  galantines  and  pies  by 
following  the  same  receipts.  They  may  also  be  dressed  in 
either  of  the  methods  directed  for  pheasants,  but  requir- 
ing rather  less  time  to  cook. 

No.  1037.  Galantine  de  Grtmse  a  la  Montoffnard. 

Eorm  two  small  grouse  into  galantines  as  directed  for 
a  la  Yohere  (No.  1032)  into  the  shape  of  birds;  have 
ready  three  parts  cold  a  good  sauce  a  la  puree  de  grouse 
(No.  59),  with  which  envelope  them,  leaving  it  upon  them 
rather  rough,  sprinkle  brown  bread-crumbs  and  chopped 
pistachios  all  over,  dress  croutons  of  aspic  (No.  1860)  round, 
and  garnish  with  a  Uttle  of  the  heather  firom  the  moimtains. 

No.  1038.  Salade  de  Grome  a  la  Soyer. 

Make  a  very  thin  border  of  fresh  butter  upon  a  con- 
venient-sized dish,  upon  which  stand  a  veiy  elevated  bor- 
der of  hard-boiled  eggs,  (by  cutting  a  piece  off  the  bottoms 
when  quite  cold  and  cutting  each  one  into  four  lengthwise,) 
fill  the  centre  with  some  nice  fresh  salad,  and  ornament  the 
^gs  with  fillets  of  anchovies,  beetroot,  gherkins,  &c.,  ac- 
cording to  taste;  you  have  previously  roasted  three  grouse 
rather  underdone;  when  quite  cold  cut  them  into  neat 
pieces,  that  is,  into  legs,  wings,  part  of  the  backs,  and  each 
breast  into  six  shces,  then  have  ready  the  following  sauce : 
put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  finely  chopped  eschalots  in  a  basin, 
with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar,  the  yolks  of  two 
eggs,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  tarragon  and  chervil,  a 
saltspoonful  of  white  pepper,  and  two  of  salt,  with  which  mix 
by  degrees  twelve  tablespoonfuls  of  salad  oil  and  three  of 


y 


442  SAVOURY  DISHES. 

Chili  vin^ar ;  mix  well  together  and  place  it  upon  the  ice  ; 
when  ready  to  serve  whip  half  a  pint  of  cream  rather  stiffs 
which  add  to  the  sauce,  pour  a  little  over  the  salad,  upon 
which  lay  some  of  the  worst  pieces  of  grouse,  over  whidhi 
put  more  sauce,  proceeding  in  like  manner  to  the  top, 
dressing  them  pyramidically.  When  it  is  for  the  flanc  of  a 
large  dinner  I  only  use  the  fillets,  roasting  four  or  five 
grouse  instead  of  three,  and  when  you  have  dressed  three 
parts  of  the  pieces  of  grouse  upon  the  salad,  build  a  second 
row  of  eggs  upon  it,  having  formed  a  level  with  the  pieces 
for  that  purpose,  and  terminate  exactly  as  the  design  repre- 
sents. I  must  observe  that  the  salad  is  better  adapted  for 
gentlemen  than  ladies,  though  if  less  eschalot  were  used  it 
might  also  meet  their  approbation.* 

No.  1039.  Perdreanx  a  la  Downshire. 

Partridges  being  smaller  birds  are  mostly  used  for  cold 
entrees,  but  four  will  make  an  excellent  flanc ;  draw  them 
and  extract  the  breast-bone,  have  ready  one  pound  of  force- 
meat of  game  (No.  128),  with  which  mix  six  truffles  cut  in 
fillets,  and  thirty  pieces  of  fat  bacon  the  size  and  shape  of 
dice ;  stuff  the  birds,  sew  them  up,  and  place  them  in  a 
stewpan  with  three  onions  in  slices,  a  head  of  celery,  and  a 
bunch  of  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay-leaves,  nearly  cover  them 
with  stock,  simmer  over  a  slow  fire  nearly  an  hour,  leave 
them  to  get  cold  in  the  stock,  drain  them  on  a  clotb,  and 
dress  on  your  dish  in  the  form  of  a  cross,  with  the  heart  of 

*  The  first  time  I  serrcd  a  salad  of  the  above  description  after  inventiiig  it 
was  in  a  dinner  which  I  dressed  for  some  noblemen  and  gentlemen  who  had 
made  a  wager  as  to  which  could  send  the  best  dinner,  myself  or  the  artiste  at  a 
celebrated  establishment  in  Paris,  where  they  had  previously  dined ;  my  first 
course  being  full  of  novelty,  gained  the  approbation  of  the  whole  party,  but  the 
salad  created  such  an  unexpected  effect  that  I  was  sent  for,  and  had  the  hoBour 
of  sitting  at  the  table  for  an  hour  with  them  and  over  several  rosades  of  exqui- 
site Laffitte ;  the  salad  was  christened  a  la  Soyer  by  General  Sir  Alexander  Duff, 
who  presided  over  the  noble  party. 


SAVOURY  DISHES.  443 

a  nice  cos  lettuice  in  the  centre ;  pass  and  clarify  the  stock 
they  were  cooked  in,  addmg  a  httle  isinglass,  reduce  to 
denii-glace,  and  when  nearly  cold  pour  it  over,  but  do  not 
serve  till  quite  cold,  garnish  round  with  some  nice  &esh 
water-cresses. 

No.  1040.   Galantine  de  PerJreatix  a  la  Voliere. 

Proceed  as  directed  for  the  pheasants  (No.  1032),  only 
using  the  claws  and  tails  of  large  crawfish  instead  of 
lobsters  as  there  directed,  dress  them  with  the  four  tails  in 
the  centre,  and  aspic  (No.  1360)  round ;  one  hour  and  a 
half  would  be  sufficient  to  stew  them. 

Eillets  of  partridges  are  dressed  in  the  same  manner  as 
the  fillets  of  pheasant  (Nos.  1034  and  1035). 

No.  1041.  Pate  de  Perdreanw, 

Have  a  round  mould  about  five  inches  in  height  and  four 
in  diameter,  which  line  with  pate  fine  (No,  1136),  which 
again  line  with  forcemeat  (No.  123),  you  have  previously 
boned  two  partridges,  which  fill  as  for  galantine  a  la  voUcre, 
fold  each  one  in  a  shce  of  bacon,  lay  one  at  the  bottom, 
which  cover  with  forcemeat,  then  the  other,  which  also 
cover,  finishing  in  a  dome,  cover  with  the  paste,  work  up 
the  edges,  and  crimp  as  for  the  pate  de  veau ;  bake  it  two 
hours  in  a  moderate  oven,  take  off  the  cover  and  pour  in  a 
pint  of  stock  in  which  you  have  stewed  the  bones  of  the 
partridges,  and  boil  half  an  ounce  of  isinglass,  previously 
passing  it  through  a  napkin ;  serve  neatly  garnished  upon 
the  top  with  aspic  (No.  1360)  chopped  and  in  croutons.  It 
must  be  quite  cold  previous  to  garnishing. 

No.  1042.  Becassea  a  la  d^  Orleans. 

Roast  four  woodcocks  underdone,  catching  their  trails 
upon  toasted  bread,  with  two  others  make  a  puree  as  di- 


444  sAvonBT  dishes. 

reded  (No.  59),  into  wbich  dip  the  four  roasted  (Hies,  aad 
let  them  remam  till  neaily  cold,  then  take  thran  out  and 
sprinkle  all  over  with  chopped  ham  and  whites  of  hard- 
boiled  eggs  ;  yoa  have  prepared  a  <at>Q8tade  in  the  form  of 
a  vase,  which  stand  in  the  centre  of  yonr  dish,  cut  the  toast 
in  four  pieces,  each  the  form  of  a  diamond,  dress  the  wood- 
cocks round  the  croustade  upon  each  piece,  dress  hard- 
boiled  eggs  in  a  border  upon  the  oroustade,  and  garnish 
with  aspic  jelly,  whipped  (No.  1S60),  chopped,  apd  quite 
white,  in  the  interior,  and  in  croutons  round. 

PHtes  of  woodcocks  are  excellent,  they  are  made  the  same 
as  for  partridges,  keeping  their  trails  for  the  interior  of  the 
birds  a(ter  they  are  boned. 

Plovers  and  snipes  may  be  dressed  precisely  as  directed 
for  the  woodcocks. 

No.  1043.  Pate  froid  de  Mauviettes 

Is  also  a  very  favourite  dish  for  second  course,  and  when 
well  prepared  stands  high  in  the  estimation  of  a  gounnet ; 
the  following  receipt  is  exactly  as  they  are  prepared  at  Fi- 
thiviers :  pluck  and  bone  six  dozen  of  larks,  take  out  the  in- 
terior, extract  the  gizzard,  and  pound  the  intestines  with  two 
pounds  of  forcemeat  (No.  123),  place  a  little  in  each  bird, 
roll  them  up,  and  envelope  them  in  very  thin  slices  of  fat 
bacon ;  you  have  lined  a  raised  pie-mould  with  paste  as  for 
pate  de  veau  (No.  999),  which  again  line  with  the  force- 
meat, place  a  layer  of  the  larks  at  the  bottom,  then  a  layer 
of  forcemeat,  then  larks  again,  till  quite  full,  and  finish  with 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  maitre  d'hotel  butter  (No.  79),  a 
thin  slice  of  fat  bacon,  and  three  bay-leaves,  cover  with 
paste  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  two  hours  and  a  half, 
place  it  by,  and  when  half  cold  add  a  pint  of  good  game 
sauce  (No.  60),  shake  it  well  in ;  when  quite  cold  take  off 
the  lid,  and  garnish  with  some  fresh  sprigs  of  parsley.     At 


8ATOURT  DISHES.  445 

Pithiviers  the  pies  are  made  square,  and  crimped  from  top  to 
bottom,  but  the  shape  has  nothing  to  do  with  the  quality, 
and  I  consider  those  made  in  moulds  look  the  handsomest. 
Pates  as  above  may  be  made  of  all  small  birds  that  are 
eatable. 

No.  1044.  Salade  de  Homard  a  Flndienne. 

Prepare  a  border  of  hard-boiled  eggs  as  directed  for  sa- 
lade de  grouse  (No.  1038),  dress  some  nice  fresh  salad  in 
the  centre,  then  take  the  flesh  from  a  very  fine  lobster,  or 
two  middUng-sized  ones,  cut  it  in  as  large  slices  as  possible, 
put  it  in  a  basin,  and  season  with  a  little  tarragon,  and 
chervil,  pepper,  and  salt ;  dress  them  in  pyramid  upon  the 
salad,  interspersing  six  mild  Indian  pickles  in  slices,  and 
serving  with  a  good  white  sauce  mayonnaise  (No.  1864)  over. 

No.  1045.  Mayonnaise  de  Homard  a  la  geUe. 

Prepare  a  border  of  half  hard-boiled  eggs  and  half  crou- 
tons of  strong  aspic  (No.  1860),  cut  the  same  height  as  the 
eggs,  and  triangular,  dress  some  salad  in  the  centre  as  in 
the  last,  and  the  lobster  well  seasoned  upon  the  top,  and 
sauce  over  with  a  sauce  mayonnaise  a  la  gelee  (No.  1361). 

No.  1046.  Miroton  de  Homard  a  la  Cardinale, 

Cut  the  flesh  of  a  large  lobster  into  slices  as  large  as  pos- 
sible, and  nearly  an  equal  size ;  reduce  a  {Hnt  of  white  sauce 
(No.  7)  (with  which  you  have  mixed  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  tarragon  vinegar)  to  two  thirds  ;  then  dip  half  the  pieces 
of  lobster  into  it  with  a  fork,  and  place  them  on  a  dish  to 
cool,  add  two  ounces  of  red  lobster  butter  (No.  77)  to  the 
remainder  of  the  sauce,  stir  it  well  in,  and  dip  in  the  re- 
mainder of  the  pieces;  when  cold  and  set,  dress  them 
in  crown  upon  salad,  with  a  white  mayonnaise  in  the 
centre. 


446  SAYOURT  DISHES. 

No.  1047.  Homard  en  Jync. 

Cut  twenty  slices  of  lobster  as  above,  of  equal  sizes,  dip 
them  into  the  white  sauce  as  there  directed^  and  put  them 
by  until  cold ;  then  put  a  little  clear  aspic  jelly  (No.  1360)  in 
the  bottom  of  a  flat  cylinder  mould,  ornament  it  with  the 
whites  of  hard-boiled  eggs  cut  in  diamonds,  squares,  leaves, 
and  crescents,  arranged  in  the  form  of  wreaths,  branches, 
&c. ;  just  cover  with  a  little  more  jelly,  and  when  set  lay 
in  the  sUces  of  lobster  slanting,  one  resting  upon  the  other, 
and  fill  up  the  mould  with  aspic,  place  it  on  the  ice,  and 
when  firm  dip  the  mould  in  warm  water,  and  turn  the 
aspic  out  upon  your  dish ;  fill  the  centre  with  some  finely  cut 
salad,  upon  which  build  some  more  lobster,  which  sauce  over 
with  a  sauce  mayonnaise  a  la  gelee  (No.  1361),  but  not  to 
run  over  the  aspic. 

No.  1048.  Homard  au  Gratin. 

Procure  three  small  lobsters,  cut  them  down  the  centre, 
save  all  the  shells,  and  cut  the  flesh  into  small  slices,  put  a 
spoonful  of  chopped  onions  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  small 
piece  of  butter,  pass  them  over  a  sharp  fire  a  few  minutes, 
keeping  them  stirred ;  then  add  a  pint  of  white  sauce,  re- 
duce one-third,  keeping  it  stirred,  add  the  flesh  of  the  lob- 
ster, season  with  a  httle  pepper,  salt,  cayenne,  and  essence 
of  anchovies ;  stir  gently  over  a  sharp  fire,  and  when  boil- 
ing take  it  off*,  stir  in  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  put  it  into  the 
shells,  egg  and  bread-crumb  over,  place  them  in  a  warm 
oven  ten  minutes,  salamander  of  a  good  colour,  and  serve 
very  hot,  dressed  upon  a  napkin,  garnished  with  a  few 
sprigs  of  fresh  parsley. 

Lobsters  au  gratin  may  also  be  served  in  sflver,  escalope 
shells  if  handy  are  preferred. 


SAVOURY  DISHES.  447 

No.  1049.  CrabB 

May  be  dressed  in  salad,  like  lobster,  cutting  the  hard  part 
into  as  large  slices  as  possible,  and  passing  the  soft  through 
a  hair  sieve,  and  mixing  it  with  the  sauce. 

No.  1050.   CoquUles  aux  Huttres, 

Procure  the  deep  shells  of  twelve  oysters,  which  well 
clean,  butter  the  interior  sUghtly,  and  as  many  bread-crumbs 
as  will  adhere  to  the  butter ;  you  have  previously  blanched 
and  bearded  four  dozen  of  oysters,  lay  them  on  a  cloth  to 
drain,  then  put  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  eschalot  into  a 
stewpan  with  a  small  piece  of  butter,  pass  them  a  few  mi- 
nutes over  the  fire,  stir  in  a  quarter  of  a  tablespoonful  of 
flour,  add  a  pint  of  oyster  sauce  (No.  69),  reduce  one  third, 
then  add  your  oysters,  season  with  a  Uttle  pepper,  salt,  cay- 
emie,  chopped  parsley,  and  essence  of  anchovies,  stir  gently 
over  the  fire,  and  when  quite  hot  stir  in  the  yolks  of  two  eggs, 
stir  over  the  fire  a  short  time  till  it  thickens,  but  do  not  let 
it  boil,  then  fill  the  shells,  egg  and  bread-crumb  over,  place 
in  a  hot  oven  ten  minutes,  salamander  a  nice  colour,  dress 
in  pyramid,  and  garnish  with  fried  parsley. 

No.  1051.  Salade  de  Filets  de  Soles, 

Fillet  two  or  three  soles,  then  well  butter  a  saute-pan, 
lay  in  your  fillets,  which  season  with  a  little  white  pepper, 
salt,  chopped  parsley,  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon^  place  them 
over  a  slow  fire,  and  when  half  done  turn  them  over  (they 
must  be  kept  quite  white),  when  done  lay  them  flat  upon 
a  dish  with  another  dish  upon  them  till  cold ;  cut  each 
fillet  in  halves,  trim  them  of  nice  shapes,  and  put  them  in 
a  basin  with  a  little  chopped  tarragon  and  chervil,  chopped 
eschalots,  pepper  and  salt;  then  dress  a  salad  as  di- 
rected  (No.  1038),  dress  the  fillets  in  crown  upon  the 


449  SATOURT  DISHES. 

salad,   and  sauce  over  with  a   good   mayonnaise   sanoe 
(No.  1864). 

No.  1052.  FUeta  de  Soles  aux  Concombres, 

Fillet  two  soles  and  dress  them  as  above,  cut  each  fillet  in 
halves,  then  have  sixteen  pieces  of  cucumber  the  same  size 
as  the  fillets,  but  thinner,  dress  them  in  turban  alternatelj 
with  the  fillets  upon  a  thin  border  oi  fresh  butter,  sauce 
over  the  fillets  only  with  a  sauce  mayonnaise  (No.  1364)  in 
which  you  have  added  a  little  whipped  cream,  and  dress  a 
good  salad  cut  rather  fine  in  the  centre.  The  remains  {A 
turbot  or  John  Doree,  may  be  cut  into  fillets  and  served  in 
either  of  the  above  methods. 

Pillets  of  soles  may  also  be  served  in  aspic,  or  miroton 
a  la  cardinale,  as  directed  for  lobster  (Nos.  1047  and  1046) 

No.  1053.  SVuites  marinees  en  mayonnaise. 

Put  three  onions  sliced  in  a  stewpan  with  two  onnoes  (tf 
butter,  one  turnip,  one  carrot  (in  sUces),  a  head  of  cekiy 
(cut  small),  a  good  handful  of  parsley,  and  two  bay-leaves ; 
pass  the  whole  ten  minutes  over  a  sharp  fire,  add  a  pint  of 
vinegar,  a  blade  of  mace,  and  half  a  dozen  peppercorns ;  let 
simmer,  then  add  three  pints  of  water ;  you  have  deaned 
three  fine  fi-eshwater  trout,  which  put  in  the  above  marinade 
and  let  them  simmer  half  an  hour ;  let  them  get  cold  in  the 
marinade,  take  th^n  out,  drain  Upon  a  doth^  and  dress 
them  on  yo«r  dish,  the  head  of  the  centre  one  pointing 
with  the  tails  of  the  others ;  sauce  over  with  a  v^  white 
mayonnaise  sauce  (No.  1364)  into  which  you  have  put  extra 
chopped  tarragon  and  chervil  and  a  Httle  whipped  cream. 

No.  1054.  Dame  de  Saumon  marinee. 

Cut  two  good  slices  from  the  middle  oi  a  fine  sahnon, 
four  inches  in  thickness,  and  dress  them  in  a  marinade^  as 


8AY0URT  DISHBS.  449 

for  the  trout,  first  tying  them  up ;  stew  one  hour,  and  leave 
them  in  the  marinade  to  cool ;  when  quite  cold  drain  them 
on  a  doth ;  dress  on  your  dish,  fill  the  centre  with  Mont^ 
peliere  butter  (No.  1366),  garnish  with  a  border  of  eggs, 
and  sauce  round  with  a  veiy  white  Tartare  sauce  (No.  88), 
and  sprinkle  a  little  chopped  gherkins  over. 

No.  1055.  Galantine  d^AnguUle. 

Procure  two  fine  eels,  skin  and  bone  them,  have  ready 
prepared  some  forcemeat  of  whiting  (No.  124),  lay  the  eel 
open  before  you  and  spread  some  of  the  forcemeat  down 
the  centre,  upon  which  lay  smaU  fillets  of  truffle,  pistachios, 
cooked  tongue,  and  whiting,  cover  with  more  of  the  force- 
meat, and  sew  the  eel  up  in  its  original  shape,  cut  it  into 
two  equal  parts  and  envelope  each  in  thin  sUces  of  fat 
bacon,  tie  in  a  napkin  and  place  them  in  a  stewpan  in 
which  you  have  prepared  a  marinade  as  for  the  trout,  but 
using  half  a  pint  of  Madeira  wine  instead  of  vinegar,  stew 
gently  half  an  hour  or  until  tender,  and  leave  it  to  get 
cold  in  the  stock,  take  out  and  remove  them  firom  the  nap- 
kin, glaze  and  place  them  on  your  dish  side  by  side  upon  a 
stand  of  Montpellier  butter  (No.  1366),  and  a  little  between 
them  to  hold  them  together ;  garnish  round  with  craw-fish 
and  croutons  of  aspic  (No.  1360).  Six  rolls  of  them,  each 
three  inches  high,  may  be  dressed  into  what  we  term  a 
bastion,  that  is  standing  them  up  on  end  in  a  circle,  join- 
ing them  together  with  Montpellier  butter,  and  placing  the 
half  of  a  hard-boiled  egg  cut  across  (to  form  a  cap)  upon 
each,  decorated  with  fillets  of  anchovies  and  very  green 
gherkins. 


29 


450 


VEGETABLES  FOR  SECOND  COURSE. 


Where  a  dish  of  vegetables  are  required  for  second 
course,  if  there  should  be  two  flancs  contrive  to  let  the 
vegetables  make  one  of  them ;  but  if  there  should  only  be 
four  dishes  in  the  second  course  they  may  be  dressed  upon 
one  of  them,  as  also  in  larger  dinners,  and  especially  when 
there  are  a  great  many  vegetables  in  season. 

No.  1056.  Asparagm 

Is  one  of  the  most  favourite  vegetables  we  have,  and  is 
generally  served  plain  ^  the  large  grass  is  preferred,  although 
the  smaller  is,  in  my  opinion,  the  fullest  flavour  for  a  dish ; 
you  require  a  hundred  large  ones  or  a  hundred  and  a  half 
of  small,  scrape  and  cut  them  of  equal  lengths,  (about  eight 
inches,)  and  tie  them  in  bundles  of  fifteen ;  about  twenty 
minutes  before  ready  to  serve  have  a  gallon  of  water, 
in  which  you  have  put  two  ounces  of  salt,  boiUng  in 
a  stewpan,  put  in  your  grass,  let  boil  quickly,  and  when 
tender  take  it  up,  dress  in  pyramid  as  high  as  possible 
upon  a  piece  of  toasted  bread,  and  serve  melted  butter 
(No.  71)  or  sauce  Hollandaise  in  a  boat. 

No.  1057.  Asperses  en petits  Poia. 

Procure  a  bunch  of  small  green  asparagus,  or  sprue, 
break  off  the  green  tops  carefully,  avoiding  the  white  parts, 
cut  the  tops  into  pieces  the  size  of  large  peas,  boil  them  in 
half  a  gallon  of  water  into  which  you  have  put  an  oimce 
of  salt :  when  tender  strain  them  off,  but  be  careful  they 


VEGETABLES.  451 

are  not  loo  much  done,  or  they  would  go  in  puree  and 
taste  watery ;  drain  them  dry  upon  a  sieve  and  put  them 
into  a  stewpan,  with  eight  spoonfuls  of  white  sauce  (No.  7), 
a  little  pepper,  salt,  and  grated  nutmeg,  with  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  powdered  sugar;  place  the  stewpan  upon  the  fire, 
move  them  round  gently,  add  four  pats  of  butter,  and 
when  melted  finish  with  a  liaison  of  one  yolk  of  egg  mixed 
with  a  quarter  of  a  gill  of  cream ;  move  it  round  over  the 
fire,  and  when  it  thickens  pour  them  upon  your  dish  and 
dress  croutons  of  Med  bread  round ;  or  they  may  be  served 
in  a  croustade  of  bread. 

No.  1058.  Sea-Kale. 

The  short  thick  kale  is  the  best,  trim  it  nicely,  about 
sixteen  heads  will  be  sufficient  for  a  dish,  boil  till  tender 
in  a  gallon  of  water,  with  two  ounces  of  salt,  take  them 
out,  place  them  on  a  clean  doth  to  drain,  and  dress  them 
pyramidically  upon  a  piece  of  toasted  bread ;  serve  plain 
melted  butter  separate  in  a  boat. 

No.  1059.  Celeri  a  la  Moelle  de  Bceuf. 

Pocure  ten  fine  heads  of  celery,  cut  them  to  about  seven 
inches  in  length,  (the  red  celery  is  the  best,)  if  too  thick 
take  off  some  of  the  outside  sticks,  wash  and  trim  them 
nicely,  blanch  ten  minutes  in  boiling  water,  drain  them  on 
a  cloth,  put  them  into  a  convenient-sized  stewpan  just 
covered  with  a  good  white  stock,  in  which  let  them  stew 
gently  till  tender,  drain  them,  dress  upon  toast,  place  four 
lai^e  pieces  of  marrow  round,  (which  you  have  boiled  in 
water,)  and  sauce  over  with  a  pint  of  good  brown  sauce 
(No.  1),  which  you  have  reduced  with  half  a  pint  of  the 
stock  the  celery  was  stewed  in^  and  seasoned  with  a  little 
sugar. 


452  VEGETABLES. 

No.  1060.   Celeri  a  la  Chetwynd, 

Trim  and  blanch  ten  fine  heads  of  red  celery^  as  in  the 
last^  blanch  also  twelve  middling-sized  onions  twenty  mi- 
nutes, place  them  in  a  stewpan  with  the  celery,  cover  with 
veal  stock  (No.  7),  and  stew  gently  till  tender,  dress  the 
celery  upon  toast  with  the  onions  roimd  and  sauce  over 
with  a  good  white  bechamel  sauce  (No.  7)  which  you  have 
reduced  with  half  a  pint  of  the  stock  the  vegetables  were 
cooked  in  till  becoming  thickish,  then  add  half  a  gill  of 
very  thick  cream,  a  Uttle  sugar,  and  sauce  over. 

No.  1061.  Sahifia  a  la  Poulette. 

Salsifis  although  a  very  favourite  vegetable  on  the  conti- 
nent and  very  plentiful  in  England,  is  seldom  used,  but  I 
hope  the  following  recipes  will  tend  to  bring  it  more  in 
vogue. 

Choose  fifteen  or  twenty  young  ones,  scrape  the  black 
skin,  cut  them  into  pieces  three  inches  long,  rub  each  piece 
with  lemon  and  throw  them  into  water,  then  put  two 
onions,  a  carrot,  one  turnip,  and  a  head  of  celery,  all  cut 
small  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  handful  of  parsley,  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  lean  ham,  a  httle  thyme,  two  bay-leaves,  and 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  beef  suet  chopped  fine,  stir  it  over 
a  sharp  fire  ten  minutes,  then  add  two  ounces  of  flour, 
(stir  weU  in,)  fill  up  with  two  quarts  of  water,  with  the  juice 
of  a  lemon,  stir  it  till  it  boils,  then  put  in  your  salsifis 
which  stew  gently  till  tender,  take  them  out  and  lay  them 
upon  a  cloth  to  drain,  then  put  a  pint  of  white  sauce 
(No.  7)  into  another  stewpan,  with  half  a  pint  of  white 
stock,  stir  over  a  sharp  fire  till  boiling,  then  add  twenty 
button  mushrooms  and  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley ; 
season  with  a  little  pepper,  salt,  grated  nutmeg,  and  pow- 
dered  sugar,  put  in  the  salsifis,  let  simmer  gently  for  half 


VEGETABI^ES.  458 

an  hour,  (the  sauce  must  be  rather  thick,)  take  out  and 
dress  it  in  two  rows  upon  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes, 
finish  the  sauce  with  a  liaison  of  two  yolks  of  eggs  mixed 
with  a  gill  of  cream,  stir  over  the  fire  till  it  thickens  but 
do  not  let  it  boil ;  sauce  over  and  serve. 

No.  1062.  Sahifis  a  la  MoeUe  de  Bcmf. 

Prepare  the  salsifis  as  above ;  when  very  tender  dress  it 
upon  your  dish,  have  four  large  pieces  of  beef  marrow  (well 
boiled  in  water),  sauce  over  with  a  good  demi-glace  (No.9). 
garnish  with  croutons  of  fried  bread  in  the  shape  of  hearts, 
and  serve  with  a  piece  of  marrow  upon  each. 

No.  1063.  i^ed  Salsifs. 

Cook  the  salsifis  as  before,  let  them  get  cold  in  the  stock, 
then  take  them  out,  drain  upon  a  cloth,  and  trim  them  all 
of  equal  sizes,  then  put  them  in  a  basin,  with  a  spoonfed  of 
vinegar,  four  of  salad  oil,  and  a  Uttle  pepper  and  salt,  let 
them  marinade  six  hours,  turning  over  occasionally  a  quar- 
ter of  an  hour  before  serving,  dip  each  piece  separately  in  a 
fritter  batter  (No.  1285)  and  fry  them  in  a  stewpan  of  hot 
lard,  when  done  lay  them  on  a  cloth  and  dress  in  pyramid 
upon  a  napkin,  garnish  with  fried  parsley,  and  serve. 

Salsifis  well  cooked  and  tender,  when  cold,  is  very  good  in 
salad  or  to  ornament  a  mayonnaise. 

No.  1064.   Concombres  farcis  en  demi-glace. 

Procure  four  very  fine  cucumbers,  which  cut  into  pieces 
three  inches  in  length,  peel  them  and  take  out  the  seeds 
with  a  long  round  cutter,  then  have  ready  some  very  nice 
forcemeat  of  veal  (No.  1 20),  into  which  you  have  put  a 
httle  chopped  basil,  thyme,  and  laurel  leaf,  put  a  piece  of 
bacon  at  each  end,  which  tie  on,  place  them  in  a  stewpan, 
with  a  Uttle  stock,  and  stew  gently  three  quarters  ofanhom* 


( 

r 

; 
I 


454  VKG£TABL£8. 

or  till  tender,  then  drain  them  upon  a  cloth,  trim  each  end, 
and  dress  in  pyramid  upon  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes, 
but  be  careful  not  to  break  them ;  sauce  over  with  a  good 
demi*glace  (No.  9)  and  serve ;  the  forcemeat  must  not  be 
too  deUcate. 

No.  1065.  Concombrea  farcis  a  la  creme. 

Proceed  with  the  cucumbers  as  in  the  last,  but  sauce 
over  with  a  celery  sauce  a  la  Chetwynd  (No.  1060). 

No.  1066.  Cromtade  aux  Concombrea. 

Prepare  a  plain  croustade  according  to  the  size  of  your 
dish,  and  three  inches  in  height,  then  have  four  cucumbers, 
which  cut  into  pieces  two  inches  and  a  half  long,  peel 
them,  split  each  piece  into  three,  take  out  the  seeds  and 
trim  them  neatly,  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  an  ounce 
of  butter,  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  and  cover  with  white 
stock,  let  them  stew  till  tender,  drain  them  upon  the 
back  of  a  sieve ;  in  another  stewpan  have  a  pint  of  good 
bechamel  sauce  (No.  7),  which  reduce  till  rather  thick, 
then  add  the  cucumber  and  a  Uttle  powdered  sugar, 
place  on  the  fire,  and  when  boiUng  finish  with  a  haison  of 
one  yolk  of  egg  mixed  with  two  tablespoonfuk  of  cream : 
place  the  croustade  upon  your  dish,  pour  the  ragout  into  it, 
and  serve. 

No.  1067.  Vegetable  Marrotos 

Are  excellent  when  young  and  about  the  size  of  turkeys' 
eggs ;  peel  fifteen  and  boil  them  in  half  a  gallon  of  water, 
into  which  you  have  put  two  ounces  of  butter  and  two 
ounces  of  salt,  boil  twenty  minutes,  or  till  quite  tender, 
drain  them  upon  a  cloth,  and  dress  upon  a  border  of  mashed 
potatoes,  in  the  form  of  an  oval  dome ;  sauce  over  with  a 
pint  of  good  melted  butter  (No.  71),  with  which  you  have 


VEOETABLeS.  455 

introdnced  a  liaison  of  two  yelks  of  eggs  mixed  with  half  a 
gill  of  cream.  All  sauces  for  vegetables  require  to  be  rather 
thick,  as  it  is  impossible  to  drain  the  vegetables  quite  dry 
to  serve  them  hot.  Vegetable  marrows  dressed  as  above 
may  also  be  served  with  a  white  sauce  a  I'ltalienne  (No.  31). 

No.  1068.  Jeruacdem  Jrtichokea 

Are  very  useful  vegetables  when  judiciously  employed, 
as  my  readers  will  perceive  by  many  of  the  foregoing  re- 
cipes ;  they  are  good  five  months  in  the  year,  from  October 
till  March,  and  some  seasons  much  longer;  when  they 
become  too  rough  they  have  lost  their  succulence,  and  are 
only  fit  to  flavour  stocks :  take  about  thirty  of  the  best 
shaped  ones  and  as  near  as  possible  of  the  same  size ;  turn 
them  into  the  shape  of  pears,  boil  in  salt  and  water,  with 
which  you  have  put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter ;  when 
tender  take  them  out,  drain  them  upon  a  cloth,  and  dress  in 
the  form  of  a  dome ;  sauce  over  with  melted  butter  (No.  71), 
sauce  Hollandaise  (No.  66),  sauce  bechamel  (No.  7),  sauce 
ravigote  (No.  44),  or  sauce  tomate  (No.  37). 

No.  1069.  Catdijlowera  and  Brocoli. 

Both  vegetables  are  very  excellent  and  universally  em- 
ployed; they  require  great  particularity  in  cleaning;  the 
best  way  is  to  throw  plenty  of  salt  over  them  and  put  them 
in  cold  water  till  ready  to  cook,  boil  them  in  salt  and  water 
till  tender,  but  not  too  much  done  or  they  will  not  hold 
together ;  the  heads  should  not  be  too  large,  and  the  best 
are  close  and  firm ;  when  done  dress  some  nice  green  Brussels 
sprouts  upon  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes  with  the  cauli- 
flowers in  the  centre,  mix  nearly  half  a  pint  of  good  white 
sauce  (No.  7),  with  the  same  quantity  of  melted  butter 
(No.  71),  and  when  hot  add  a  liaison  of  one  yolk  of  egg 
mixed  with  two  spoonfuls  of  cream ;  sauce  over  and  serve ; 


456  VEGETABLES. 

they  may  also  be  served  with  a  sauce  a  la  maitre  d'hotel 

(No.  43). 

No.  1070.   Choiucfleurs  au  Parmesan. 

Boil  three  cauliflowers  as  before,  and  when  done  drain 
them  upon  a  cloth,  then  put  a  pint  of  good  white  sauce 
(No.  7)  in  a  stewpan,  with  half  a  pint  of  milk,  season  with 
a  little  pepper,  salt,  and  cayenne,  reduce  it  over  a  sharp 
fire  till  getting  thick,  add  half  a  pound  of  grated  Parme- 
san cheese  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  grated  Gruyer,  mix 
well  and  stir  in  two  yolks  of  eggs,  then  put  a  little  at  the 
bottom  of  your  dish,  dress  some  of  the  cauliflower  in  pieces 
upon  it,  which  again  cover  with  sauce,  proceeding  thus  till 
you  have  formed  a  dome,  finishing  with  the  sauce  all  over, 
egg  and  bread-crumb  Hghtly,  put  it  in  a  warm  oven  a  quar. 
ter  of  an  hour,  salamander  of  a  Ught  brown  colour,  and 
serve. 

No.  1071.  Artichokes 

Are  very  great  favourites  with  most  epicures,  and  their 
flavour  renders  them  worthy  of  so  high  an  appreciation. 

Have  six  not  over  large  but  of  a  very  good  size,  trim 
the  bottoms  rather  close  till  it  shows  the  white  streak,  cut 
also  an  inch  from  the  top  vnth  a  pair  of  scissors,  and  a 
little  off  the  point  of  each  leaf,  have  a  gallon  of  water 
(into  which  you  have  put  half  a  pound  of  salt,)  boiling,  put 
in  the  artichokes  and  boU  one  hour,  or  till  you  can  pull  out 
a  leaf  with  facility,  take  them  up,  lay  them  upon  a  cloth 
to  drain,  upside  down,  dress  them  upon  a  napkin,  and 
serve  with  melted  butter  separate  in  a  boat ;  they  may  be 
boiled  previously  and  kept  in  cold  water  till  wanted,  and 
are  ready  by  merely  dipping  them  in  boiling  water. 


VEGETABLES.  457 

No.  1072.  Artichokes  a  la  Barigovle. 

Trim  your  artichokes  as  above  and  blanch  twenty  mi- 
nutes,  place  them  in  cold  water,  then  scoop  out  the  interior 
with  the  handle  of  a  spoon  and  your  fingers,  taking  out 
every  particle  from  the  interior,  have  some  fat  in  a  stewpan 
very  hot,  into  which  dip  the  tops  of  the  artichokes  till  of  a 
yellow  colour,  then  put  them  back  upon  the  cloth ;  you 
have  scraped  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fat  bacon,  which  put 
into  a  stewpan,  with  four  tablespoonfuls  of  oil,  four  of 
chopped  onions  and  eschalots,  two  of  chopped  mushrooms, 
and  one  of  chopped  parsley,  a  little  thyme,  two  bay-leaves, 
and  a  little  pepper,  salt,  and  sugar ;  pass  the  whole  ten 
minutes  over  a  moderate  fire,  then  add  a  pint  of  brown 
sauce  (No.  1),  boil  twenty  minutes,  stir  in  two  spoonfuls  of 
bread-crumbs  and  set  it  in  a  cold  place ;  when  cold  mix  it 
again  and  put  an  equal  proportion  in  each  artichoke ;  tie  a 
square  piece  of  fat  bacon  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness 
upon  each,  tie  them  across  with  string  and  put  them  into  a 
flat  stewpan,  with  three  pints  of  good  stock,  set  them  in  a 
moderate  oven  to  braise  for  about  three  quarters  of  an  hour, 
or  till  you  can  take  a  leaf  out  with  facility,  then  take  them 
out,  drain  them  on  a  cloth,  take  off  the  string  and  bacon, 
and  dress  them  upon  your  dish  four  at  the  bottom  and  two 
at  the  top,  with  two  spoonfuls  of  demi-glace  (No.  9)  in 
each.  For  the  amateur  who  does  not  object  to  the  flavour 
of  onions,  dressed  in  the  above  manner  they  are  most  ap- 
preciated. 

No.  1073.  Artichauts  a  la  Bordelaise, 

Proceed  exactly  as  above,  but  fiUing  them  with  the  fol- 
lowing sauce  (instead  of  the  sauce  there  mentioned) :  peel 
thirty  large  button  onions  and  cut  them  in  rings,  put  them 
in  a  stewpan  with  a  UtUe  oil,  and  fry  of  a  light  yellow 


458  VEGETABLES. 

colour,  add  half  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (No.  7),  and  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  bread-crumbs,  mix  well,  then  add  eighteen 
stoned  oUves,  and  the  fillets  of  four  anchovies  well  washed, 
stew  till  all  is  well  cooked,  then  season  with  a  httle  pepper, 
sugar,  and  a  piece  of  scraped  garUc  the  size  of  a  pea,  fill  the 
artichokes,  and  when  done  serve  with  a  little  w^hite  sauce  in 
each. 

No.  1074.  Artichauta  a  Vltaiienne. 

Take  four  good  artichokes,  cut  them  in  quarters  and  trim 
them  well,  cutting  all  the  green  from  the  bottoms  and 
taking  out  all  the  fiir  from  the  interior,  put  them  in  a  stew- 
pan  of  boiling  water  (to  blanch)  a  quarter  of  an  hour ;  then 
take  them  out,  drain  them  upon  a  cloth,  put  a  tablespoon- 
fiil  of  chopped  onions  in  a  saute-pan  with  a  tablespoonful 
of  oil,  and  one  of  wine,  pass  them  one  minute  over  the  fire, 
then  put  in  the  artichokes,  which  cover  with  brown  sauce 
and  a  Uttle  stock,  stew  them  gently  over  a  moderate  fire  till 
you  can  pull  out  a  leaf  with  facility,  take  them  out  and 
dress  in -turban  upon  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes,  put  a 
tablespoonful  of  chopped  mushrooms  into  the  saute-pan,  re- 
duce the  sauce  to  a  proper  consistency,  season  with  a  httle 
sugar  and  salt  if  required,  sauce  over  and  serve. 

No.  1075.  Artichauts  au  Veloute. 

Prepare  the  artichokes  as  above,  and  blanch  them,  put 
an  ounce  of  butter  in  a  saute-pan,  lay  in  the  artichokes, 
which  cover  vdth  a  good  white  sauce  (No.  7) ;  place  a  Hd 
upon  the  saute-pan,  and  put  them  in  a  moderate  oven  till 
done,  then  take  out  the  artichokes,  which  dress  in  turban  as 
above ;  put  a  httle  milk  in  the  saute-pan,  reduce  the  sauce 
till  rather  thickish,  add  a  little  sugar,  and  finish  with  a 
liaison  of  two  yolks  of  eggs  mixed  with  a  gill  of  cream,  pass 
through  a  tammie  and  sauce  over. 


VEGETABLES.  459 


No.  1074.  Artichaux  a  la  BruweUaise. 

Diess  a  border  of  artichokes  as  in  the  last,  upon  a  border 
of  mashed  potatoes,  and  have  ready  a  quart  of  very  nice 
Brussel  sprouts  dressed  a  la  maitre  d'hotel  (No.  1088), 
which  dress  in  pyramid  in  the  centre.  This  dish  can  only 
be  served  in  the  autumn  season  of  the  year,  as  it  is  only 
then  both  vegetables  can  be  obtained. 

No.  1075.  Peas. 

The  best  of  all  green  vegetables,  and  the  delight  of  mil- 
lions, whilst  their  profusion  renders'  them  attainable  by  all ; 
like  the  asparagus,  they  belong  to  that  season  of  flavour, 
the  spring  of  the  year,  but  remain  in  season  till  a  much 
later  period ;  when  young  the  Enghsh  method  of  cooking 
them  is  good,  because  the  more  succulence  there  is  in  a 
vegetable  the  less  zest  they  require  to  make  them  palatable. 
To  describe  the  different  sorts  would  be  almost  an  endless, 
and  to  a  certain  extent  a  useless  task,  but  the  Prussian 
blues  are,  in  my  opinion,  the  very  best ;  to  plain  boil  them, 
have  two  quarts  of  fresh-shelled  peas,  with  a  sprig  of  young 
mint,  about  ten  leaves  (the  greatest  fault  with  most  people 
is  putting  too  much),  have  a  gallon  of  water  boiling  upon  the 
fire,  in  which  you  have  put  two  ounces  of  salt,  when  boil- 
ing put  in  your  peas,  let  them  boil  as  fast  as  possible  from 
ten  to  fifteen  minutes,  try  whether  they  are  tender,  if 
so  strain  them  through  a  cullender,  dress  them  upon  your 
dish  with  two  pats  of  butter  upon  the  top  and  serve; 
or  when  drained  put  them  into  a  stewpan  vdth  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a 
good  teaspoonful  of  powdered  sugar,  place  over  a  fire,  and 
keep  tossing  them  until  the  butter  is  melted,  dress  them 
either  plain  upon  your  dish  or  in  a  bread  croustade. 


46Q  V£0£TABL£S. 

No.  1076.  Pois  au  sucre  An^lo-Franfais. 

When  you  have  boiled  and  drained  two  quarts  of  young 
peas,  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  six  young  green  onions 
in  a  bunch,  six  spoonfuls  of  white  sauce,  a  httle  pepper  and 
salt,  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar,  let  simmer 
ten  minutes,  then  stir  in  a  liaison  of  two  yolks  of  eggs 
mixed  with  half  a  gill  of  cream,  do  not  let  them  boil,  but 
when  the  sauce  becomes  thickish  and  hangs  to  the  peas 
turn  them  out  upon  your  dish  and  serve,  previously  taking 
out  the  onions. 

No.  1077.  Fois  au  sucre  a  la  Franfaise, 

The  manner  of  dressing  peas  directed  in  the  last  keeps 
them  very  green,  which  the  French  style  does  not,  unless 
very  young,  but  to  balance,  their  flavour  is  superior ;  and 
although  the  eye  must  be  pleased  to  a  certain  extent,  my 
principal  business  is  with  the  palate. 

Put  two  quarts  of  young  peas  in  a  good-sized  stewpan 
with  six  young  onions,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  and  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  fresh  butter;  just  cover  the  peas  with  cold 
water  and  rub  them  well  together  with  the  hands,  pour  off 
all  the  water,  add  a  good  bunch  of  parsley,  a  tablespoonful 
of  sugar,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  salt ;  set  the  stewpan  upon  a 
sharp  fire,  moving  them  round  very  often,  if  young  twenty 
minutes  is  quite  sufficient,  but  when  tender  they  are  done 
(if  they  should  become  too  dry  add  a  very  little  water), 
when  done  take  out  the  onions  and  the  bunch  of  parsley  ; 
you  have  previously  mixed  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  with  two 
ounces  of  fresh  butter,  mix  well  with  the  peas,  stir  them 
over  the  fire  till  they  become  thickish,  then  add  a  liaison  of 
two  yolks  of  eggs  (mixed  with  half  a  pint  of  mUk  or  cream), 
season  a  httle  more  if  required,  stir  the  liaison  in  quickly, 
do  not  let  it  boil,  and  w^hen  it  thickens  they  are  ready  to 
serve,  they  must  not,  however,  be  too  thick  or  too  thin. 


VEGBTABLES.  46 1 


No.  1078.  French  Beans. 


Cut  enough  young  beans  into  strips  to  make  a  good 
flanc  dish  ^  have  a  stewpan  with  a  gallon  of  water  in  which 
you  have  put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  salt,  when  boiUng  put 
in  the  beans,  which  boil  very  fast  till  tender ;  when  done 
strain  them  ofif,  lay  a  bed  of  them  upon  your  dish,  upon 
which  lay  two  pats  of  butter,  sprinkle  them  over  with 
pepper  and  salt,  then  more  beans,  proceeding  thus  till  you 
have  formed  a  pyramid,  serve  very  hot. 

No.  1079.  Haricots  verts  saute  au  duerre. 

When  boiled  as  above,  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  six 
ounces  of  fresh  butter,  season  with  a  little  chopped  parsley, 
sugar,  pepper,  and  salt ;  toss  them  over  a  sharp  fire,  and 
when  quite  hot  dress  them  in  pyramid. 

No.  1080.  Haricots  verts  aux  fines  herbes. 

Boil  the  beans  as  before,  when  boiled  put  two  spoonfuls 
of  chopped  onions  in  a  stewpan  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  butter,  pass  them  a  few  minutes  over  the  fire,  keeping 
them  quite  white,  add  a  spoonful  of  flour  (stir  well  in) 
and  a  pint  of  good  white  stock,  boil  until  it  adheres  to  the 
back  of  a  spoon;  then  add  your  beans,  toss  them  well 
t(^ether,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  the  juice  of 
a  lemon,  a  Uttle  pepper,  salt,  and  sugar,  finish  with  six  pats 
of  butter,  and  four  spoonfuls  of  liaison  (No.  119),  dress 
them  as  high  as  possible  upon  the  dish,  or  in  a  croustade  of 
bread. 

No.  1081.  Haricots  verts  a  la  Potdette. 

Boil  the  beans  as  before,  when  done  drain  them  quite 
dry,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  three  parts  of  a  pint  of 
bechamel  sauce  (No.  7),  sue  spoonfuls  of  stock,  pepper,  salt. 


462  TEOBTABLES. 

sugar,  a  bunch  of  green  onions,  and  parsley ;  stew  gently 
ten  minutes,  take  out  the  bunch,  add  a  teaspoonful  of 
chopped  parsley,  and  finish  with  a  Uaison  of  two  yolks  of 
eggs  mixed  with  a  gill  of  cream,  stir  in  quickly,  and  when 
it  begins  to  thicken  serve  as  in  the  last. 

No.  1082.  Brussels  Sprouts  saute  au  buerre. 

The  small  firm  ones  are  the  best ;  boil  a  sufficient  quan- 
tity in  salt  and  water  about  twenty  minutes,  or  till  tender, 
as  directed  for  the  beans ;  when  done  put  them  in  a  stew- 
pan,  with  a  Uttle  pepper,  salt,  and  sugar,  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  butter,  and  the  juice  of  &  lemon,  when  quite  hot 
dress  them  as  high  as  possible  upon  your  dish. 

No.  1083.  Brussels  Sprouts  a  la  Maitre  ff  Hotel. 

Boil  a  sufficient  quantity  of  sprouts  as  before,  and  dre86 
them  upon  your  dish  in  pyramid ;  then  put  a  pint  of  melted 
butter  in  a  stewpan,  let  boil,  and  wlulst  boiling  add  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  maitre  d'hotel  butter  (No.  79),  stir  it 
in  quickly  and  sauce  over,  or  sauce  them  in  layers  as  you 
dress  them  up. 

No.  1084.  CAotuB  de  Bruxelles  a  la  Creme  en  turban  de 

Concombres. 

Make  a  turban  of  cucumbers,  cut  and  dressed  as  directed 
(No.  103),  form  the  turban  upon  a  border  of  mashed  po- 
tatoes ;  boil  sufficient  Brussel  sprouts,  which  dress  in  pyra- 
mid, sauce  over  the  cucumbers  with  a  good  sauce  HoUan- 
daise  (No.  66),  and  over  the  sprouts  with  a  good  sauce  be- 
chamel (No.  7),  but  not  too  thick,  so  that  the  Brussel 
sprouts  may  show  through  it ;  they  may  likewise  be  dressed 
in  a  border  of  Jerusalem  artichokes,  which  gives  a  great 
variety  to  those  favourite  vegetables;  peas  and  French 
beans  may  also  be  dressed  in  a  turban  of  the  above  de« 
Bcription, 


VEGETABLES:  468 

No.  1087.  S^ttad 

Is  a  very  wholesome  and  digestible  vegetable,  excellent 
for  invalids,  but  still  more  so  for  those  in  good  health,  be- 
cause an  invalid  can  only  have  it  plain-dressed,  whilst  a 
person  in  health  can  enjoy  it  in  any  of  the  tasty  ways  in 
which  it  is  dressed.  Pick  and  wash  it  very  clean  in  three  or 
four  waters,  for  as  nothing  is  worse  than  spinach  when  gritty, 
so  likewise  there  is  nothing  more  troublesome  to  get  quite 
clean,  from  its  growing  so  near  the  earth ;  boil  in  plenty 
of  salt  and  water  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  then  drain  it 
through  a  sieve,  and  squeeze  quite  dry  with  a  cloth,  chop 
very  fine  (which  I  consider  is  better  than  passing  through 
a  wire  sieve),  put  it  m  a  stewpan  with  half  a  pound  of 
fresh  butter,  pepper,  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  and 
a- httle  grated  nutmeg,  stir  five  minutes  over  a  sharp 
fire,  pour  it  out  upon  your  dish,  and  serve  with  croutons  of 
fried  bread  round ;  the  above  proportion  is  for  half  a  sieve. 

No.  1088.  Epinarda  aujm. 

Proceed  exactly  as  above,  adding  half  a  tablespoonful  of 
flour,  and  when  well  mixed  half  a  pint  of  good  demi-glace 
(No.  9),  glaze  the  croutons  which  you  garnish  with  and 
serve. 

No.  1089.  Epinards  a  la  FrafKfaiae, 

When  your  spinach  is  well  chopped  put  it  into  a  stew- 
pan  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter,  stir  over  the 
fire  till  quite  hot,  then  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour ;  season 
with  a  httle  pepper,  salt,  sugar,  and  grated  nutmeg,  mix 
well,  then  add  half  a  pint  of  good  stock,  stir  ten  minutes 
over  the  fire,  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  more  butter,  after 
taking  it  from  the  fire ;  when  melted  pour  it  out  upon  your 
dish  and  serve  as  before.     The  old  system  was  to  make  a 


406  VKQETABLE3. 

forcemeat  (No.  12Q)  with  which  you  have  mixed  some 
chopped  parsley  and  mushrooms ;  tie  them  up  and  braise 
as  above  three  quarters  of  an  homr,  take  them  up,  drain, 
and  serve  with  a  sauce  demi-glace  (No.  9)  over  them. 

No.  1095.  Feves  dc  Marais 

When  young  are  very  delicate,  take  two  quarts  directly 
they  are  shelled  and  boil  them  nearly  ten  minutes  in  salt 
and  water,  try  if  done,  drain  them  upon  a  sieve,  then  put 
them  in  a  stewpan,  pour  half  a  pint  of  good  sauce  maitre 
d'hotel  (No.  43)  over,  and  add  a  little  chopped  tarragon 
and  powdered  sugar,  and  serve.  They  are  also  very  good 
plain  boiled,  with  a  few  pats  of  butter  laid  over  them. 

No.  1096.   White  Haricots  Beans. 

There  is  perhaps  no  white  vegetable  more  in  vogue  in 
IVance  than  this,  but  although  so  well  appreciated  there 
and  eaten  by  many  English  gourmets,  they  never  tliink  of 
having  them  dressed  at  home;  it  is  true  that  the  haricot 
in  France  is  what  the  potato  is  in  England,  when  in 
their  prime  and  just  taken  from  their  shells,  there  are  a 
great  many  epicures  who  would  not  dine  without  them. 
The  reason  I  so  strongly  recommend  them  is  because  I  have 
seen  thousands  of  them  in  noblemen's  gardens,  many  of 
which  are  quite  spoiled,  and  some  dried  for  the  winter 
season,  when  they  might  be  dressed  and  eaten  in  their 
prime ;  I  think,  however,  that  when  my  readers  know  the 
simplicity  of  dressing  them,  and  their  moderate  expense, 
they  wiU  at  least  give  them  a  trial.  They  are  very  numer- 
ous about  the  month  of  September,  but  when  old  and  dry 
I  do  not  recommend  them,  they  being  very  hard  of  diges- 
tion, and  only  fit  to  be  used  dry  as  directed  in  other  parts 
of  this  work. 

Have  one  quart  of  them  fresh  shelled,  have  also  two 


Vegetable.  467 

quarts  of  water  boDing,  in  which  you  have  put  two  ounced 
of  butter  and  a  little  salt,  put  in  your  beans  and  boU  them 
about  half  an  hour,  or  till  tender,  drain  qtdte  dry  upon  a 
sieve,  then  put  them  in  another  stewpan  with  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  butter,  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  toss  them  a  few 
minutes  over  the  fire,  and  when  very  hot  turn  them  out 
upon  your  dish  and  serve. 

No.  1097.  Haricots  blanca  u  la  Bretonne, 

Boil  the  beans  as  in  the  last,  then  put  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  chopped  onions  in  a  stewpan  with  an  ounce  of  butter, 
stir  over  the  fire  till  they  become  rather  yellowish,  then  add 
half  a  pint  of  brown  sauce  (No.  1)  and  a  piece  of  glaze  the 
size  of  a  walnut ;  boU  a  few  minutes,  then  add  the  beans, 
drain  quite  dry,  season  rather  high;  and  when  quite  hot 
pour  them  upon  your  dish  and  serve. 

No.  1098.  Haricots  hlancs  a  la  Maitre  (TUoteL 

Boil  the  beans  as  before,  and  when  done  drain  quite  dry 
and  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  six  ounces  of  maitre 
d'hotel  butter  (No.  79) ;  toss  them  over,  add  a  little  more 
seasoning  if  required,  and  serve  when  quite. hot.  They 
may  also  be  served  plain  boiled  with  a  little  butter  upon 
them. 

No.  1099.  Tomates  au  gratin. 

Take  ten  fine  tomatas  not  too  ripe,  cut  a  little  from  the 
top  of  each,  press  out  the  pips  and  juice,  but  do  not  brjeak 
the  skins  or  press  away  any  of  the  flesh ;  fill  the  interior 
with  a  sauce  as  directed  for  artichauts  a  la  barigoule  (No. 
1072),  stand  them  in  a  saute-pan,  egg  and  bread-crumb  all 
over,  stand  them  in  a  hot  oven  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  saila« 
mander  of  a  good  colour,  and  dress  them  p)Tamidically 
upon  your  dish. 


468  VXOETABLES. 


No.  1100.  Tomates  a  la  Piemontaise. 

Proceed  as  above,  but  using  a  little  garlic  (scraped)  in 
the  sauce,  likewise  put  a  little  salad-oil  in  the  saute-pan 
which  serve  under  them. 

No.  1101.  Mushrooms  plain  broiled. 

Choose  them  rather  large  and  black  underneath,  peel  the 
skin  from  the  top,  and  broil  over  a  sharp  fire,  seasoning 
with  pepper  and  salt ;  when  done,  place  a  small  piece  of 
butter  upon  each  and  serve ;  ten  minutes  is  sufficient  time 
to  broil  good-sized  ones. 

No.  Ii02.  MusArooms /arcis. 

Procure  twelve  middling-sized  mushrooms,  scoop  out 
part  of  the  interior,  make  a  good  sauce  aux  fines  herbes 
(No.  26)  very  thick,  to  which  add  the  interior  of  the  mush- 
rooms, and  a  few  bread-crumbs ;  fill  your  mushrooms,  egg 
and  bread-crumb  over,  place  them  in  a  saut&-pan  in  the 
oven  twenty  minutes,  salamander  a  light  colour  and  serve 
on  a  napkin. 

No.  1103.   Croute  auw  champignons. 

Procure  a  very  fresh  pottle  of  white  mushrooms,  which 
peel  and  trim,  pass  a  few  chopped  onions  in  a  stewpan 
with  a  small  piece  of  butter  (do  not  let  them  get  brown), 
add  a  pint  of  sauce  bechamel  (No.  7) ;  when  boiling  put  in 
the  mushrooms  (raw),  let  simmer  half  an  hour,  season  with 
a  Uttle  salt,  pepper,  and  sugar,  and  finish  with  a  liaison  of 
two  yolks  of  eggs  mixed  with  half  a  gill  of  cream,  move 
round  over  the  fire  till  it  thickens,  dress  them  upon  your 
dish  in  the  crust  of  a  French  roll,  scooped  out  and  fried 
for  that  purpose,  and  sauce  over. 


VBGBTABLE8.  469 

No.  1104.  Young  Carrots  in  their  glaze. 

Scrape  forty  young  carrots,  which  put  into  a  stewpan 
with  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  four  young  onions,  a  bunch  of 
parsley,  and  a  bay-leaf ;  just  cover  with  a  good  white  stock 
and  stew  till  the  carrots  are  tender,  then  take  them  out  and 
dress  in  the  form  of  a  dome  by  sticking  them  into  mashed 
potatoes ;  strain  the  stock  they  were  stewed  in  through  a 
napkin  into  a  stewpan,  add  to  it  half  a  pint  of  brown  sauce 
(No.  1),  and  reduce  till  it  adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon, 
then  add  two  pats  of  butter,  sauce  ail  over  and  9erve. 

No.  1105.  Young  Turnips  in  their  glaze. 

Proceed  exactly  as  for  the  carrots,  only  using  white  sauce 
instead  of  brown,  and  finishing  with  a  liaison  of  one  yolk 
of  egg  mixed  with  a  spoonful  of  cream. 

No.  1106.   Oignons  Printaniers  au  Sirop  doree. 

Peel  about  forty  spring  onions,  each  about  the  size  of  a 
walnut',  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  one  ounce  of  butter 
and  one  of  powdered  sugar,  toss  them  occasionally  over  the 
fire,  (but  be  careful  not  to  break  the  outer  skin,)  until 
covered  with  a  light  glaze ;  cover  with  a  white  stock  and 
stew  very  gently  tUl  quite  done,  drain  them  upon  a  cloth, 
dress  neatly  upon  a  border  of  mashed  pottutoes,  reduce  and 
skim  the  stock  till  nearly  a  glaze,  add  two  pats  of  butter, 
sauce  over  and  serve. 

No.  1107.  Macedoine  de  Legmnes  Printanteres. 

Stew  ten  onions,  ten  carrots,  and  ten  turnips,  as  directed 
in  the  preceding  articles,  dress  them  upon  a  border  of 
mashed  potatoes  in  three  separate  rows,  have  ready  a  white 
macedoine  de  legumes  (No.  98),  in  which  you  have  intro- 
duced some  peas  and  asparagus  heads  nicely  blanched, 


470  VEGETABLES. 

which  dress  in  the  centre  as  high  as  possible,  and  sauce 
over  the  vegetables  with  their  stock  reduced  to  a  thin  glaze. 

No.  1108.  Fommea  de  Terre  a  la  Maitre  (T Hotel. 

For  dressing  in  sauce  there  is  no  potato  to  equal  the 
French  red  kidney  potato,  which  will  keep  as  it  is  cut, 
whilst  a  round  mealy  potato  would  crumble  to  pieces,  but 
being  rather  difficult  to  {»x)cure  obtain  some  waxy  kidney 
potatoes,  which  boil  and  stand  by  to  get  cold,  .then  peel 
and  cut  them  in  slices,  which  put  in  a  stewpan,  with  a 
little  pepper,  salt,  and  about  half  a  pint  of  stock,  set  them 
upon  the  fire,  let  them  boil  two  or  three  minutes,  then  add 
(if  a  sufficient  quantity  fc^  a  fianc  dish)  three  quarters  of  a 
pound  of  fresh  butter,  keep  shaking  the  stewpan  round 
over  the  fire  till  the  butter  is  melted,  it  will  thus  form  its 
own  sauce,  finish  with  a  tablespoonfal  of  chopped  parsley 
and  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  turn  out  upon  your  dish  and 
serve.  The  potatoes  require  to  be  cut  in  sfices  the  size  of 
a  halfpenny,  but  double  the  thickness ;  if  not  able  to  ob- 
tain the  proper  potatoes  use  melted  butter  instead  of  stock 
to  boil  them  in,  or  having  no  consistence  they  would  form 
a  puree. 

No.  1109.  Pommes  de  Terre  satdeea  au  beurre. 

Cut  your  potatoes  after  boiling  them  as  above,  put  half  a 
pound  of  butter  in  a  saute^pan,  let  it  melt,  then  put  in  the 
potatoes,  fry  a  Ught  yellow  colour,  season  with  a  little 
pepper,  salt,  and  lemon-juice ;  dress  them  upon  a  napkin  and 
serve. 

No.  1110.  Pommea  de  Terre  a  la  Lyonnaiae, 

Cut  your  potatoes  as  above,  then  put  three  quarters  of  a 
pound  of  butter  in  a  saut^pan,  with  thirty  button  onions 
cut  in  rings^  place  them  upon  the  fire  and  when  becoming 


VEGETABLES.  471 

yellowish  put  in  your  potatoes,  season  with  chopped  parsley, 
salt,  lemon-juice,  and  a  good  pinch  of  black  pepper ;  when 
rather  yellow  and  quite  hot,  serve. 

No.  1111.  Zentiiles 

Are  only  used  in  the  winter,  they  are  dried ;  put  one 
quart  of  them  in  warm  water,  and  let  them  soak  two  hours, 
then  put  them  m  a  stewpan,  with  three  quarts  of  water, 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  and  a  little  salt,  let  them 
simmer  two  hours,  but  they  may  require  either  more  or 
less  time,  as  that  depends  entirely  upon  the  quaUty,  there 
being  two  sorts,  the  smaller  ones  being  the  best.  This 
perhaps  is  the  only  dish  of  vegetables  that  we  have  inhe- 
rited from  the  ancients.  Centuiy  after  century  have  they 
been  in  vogue ;  they  are  mentioned  in  Scripture,  and  several 
of  our  great  masters  have  immortalized  that  ancient  dish  in 
some  of  their  most  celebrated  pictures ;  although  not  much 
in  vogue  in  England,  in  France  and  upon  the  continent 
they  are  much  used,  especially  in  Lent.  When  boiled  ten- 
der drain  them  upon  a  sieve,  put  them  into  a  stewpan, 
with  a  little  pepper,  salt,  a  teaspoonftd  of  chopped  parsley, 
and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  with  which  you  have 
mixed  a  teaspoonful  of  flour ;  keep  tossing  them  over  upon 
a  sharp  fire,  and  when  quite  hot  dress  in  a  croustade  or 
within  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes,  as  they  would  not  look 
well  dressed  flat. 

No.  1112.  Zentiiles  a  la  Comte  au  riz. 

Cook  your  lentils  as  above,  then  put  foiur  pats  of  butter 
in  a  stewpan,  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  onions, 
pass  them  a  few  minutes  over  the  fire,  then  add  half  a 
tablespoonful  of  flour,  mix  well  and  moisten  with  a  Httle  of 
the  liquor  from  the  lentils,  boil  two  minutes  keeping  it 
stirred,  then  add  your  lentils  and  a  little  chopped  parsley. 


472  V£G£TABLE8. 

boil  altogether  and  finish  with  a  liaison  of  two  yolks  of 
eggs  mixed  with  half  a  gill  of  crearn^  stir  in  quickly  and 
when  it  thickens  serve  as  in  the  last. 

No.  1113.  Truffles. 

Perigord  is  the  only  place  renowned  throughout  the 
world  as  the  favourite  soil  for  this  recharche  vegetable,  and 
our  celebrated  diplomatist,  Talleyrand  de  Ferigord,  was 
indeed  a  worthy  owner,  for  he  was  not  only  a  great  diplo- 
matist but  likewise  a  great  gourmet.  Having  an  interview 
with  any  distinguished  personage  upon  any  question  of 
political  importance,  after  patiently  hearing,  his  usual  reply 
was,  I  Will  consider  of  it  after  dinner;  perhiqps  your  excel* 
lency  will  favour  me  with  a  call  to-morrow  morning; — 
and  ringing  the  bell  often  call  for  his  bill  of  fare  and  order 
some  of  his  most  favourite  dishes.  But  in  eulogizing 
Talleyrand  and  the  produce  of  his  estate  I  must  not  forget 
to  mention  that  the  truffles  d[  Piedmont  though  partly 
white  are  veiy  excellent,  likewise  in  Burgundy,  and  many 
very  good  ones  are  now  found  in  the  southern  counties  of 
England,  especially  in  Hampshire,  but  none  are  equal  to 
those  from  Perigord.  The  white  are  dressed  the  same  as 
the  black. 

No.  1114.  Truffes  au  vin  de  Champagne, 

Soak  twelve  large  truffles  in  lukewarm  water  two  hoursy 
then  with  a  rather  hard  scrubbing-brush  clean  them  well 
in  two  or  three  waters,  picking  the  dirt  from  the  eyes  with 
a  small  pointed  knife,  when  thoroughly  clean  cover  the 
bottom  of  a  stewpan  vdth  slic^  of  fat  bacon,  one  carroty 
one  turnip,  two  onions,  (cut  in  slices,)  a  bunch  of  parsley, 
thyme,  and  bay4eaf,  six  cloves,  and  one  blade  of  mace, 
put  in  the  truffles,  which  half  cover  with  some  good  white 
stock,  let  simmer  half  an  hour  then  add  half  a  pint  of 


VEOBTABLES.  47o 

champagne,  simmer  another  half  horn-,  but  be  sure  the  cover 
of  the  stewpan  fits  tight,  take  oflF  the  stewpan  and  surround 
it  with  ice  with  a  weight  upon  the  cover ;  when  quite  cold 
drain  and  serve  upon  a  napkin.  None  but  the  black 
truffles  ought  to  be  dressed  in  the  above  manner.  I  gene- 
rally serve  their  liquor,  which  is  excellent,  in  a  sauce-boat 
with  them.     Season  a  little  more  if  required. 

No.  1115.   Crauie  aux  Truffes. 

Wash  them  as  in  the  last  and  peel  lightly  vnth  a  knife, 
cut  them  into  thin  slices,  put  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a 
saute-pan,  then  yoiur  truffles,  which  season  rather  highly 
with  pepper,  salt,  and  two  glasses  of  sherry,  set  them 
over  a  slow  fire,  turning  them  over  occasionally;  when 
tender  and  becoming  glazy  add  a  pint  of  demi-glacc 
(No.  9),  shake  all  round  together  over  the  fire  a  few  mi- 
nutes, add  a  little  sugar,  and  serve  them  over  four  crusts, 
thus :  cut  two  French  rolls  in  halves  lengthwise,  scoop  out 
the  crumb,  butter  the  crusts  and  broil  them,  glaze,  lay 
them  upon  your  dish  and  pour  the  truffles  over. 

No.  1116.  Tncffe%  en  cromtade  a  Vltalienne. 

Cut  and  fry  a  very  pretty  croustade  of  bread,  dress  it 
upon  your  dish,  saute  your  truffles  as  in  the  last,  pour  them 
into  the  croustade  and  sauce  over  with  a  white  Italienne 
sauce  (No.  81). 

No.  1117.  Truffes  deini  Piemontaise. 

Procure  some  truffles  as  large  as  possible,  wash  and  peel 
as  before,  cut  them  in  slices  and  put  them  into  a  saute-pan, 
with  six  tablespoonfuk  of  salad  oil,  fiy  very  gently,  add 
two  pieces  of  bruised  garlic,  a  glass  of  sherry,  and  six 
spoonfuls  of  tomata  sauce  (No.  37),  mix  altogether  well, 
boil  gently,  add  a  little  sugar  and  juice  of  lemon,  and  serve 
them  in  your  dish  upon  a  piece  of  toasted  bread. 


474  VKGSTARLS8,  BTC. 

No.  1118.  TnffeH  a  la  Dim. 

If  you  should  have  some  of  the  truffes  au  vin  de  cham- 
pagne left  from  a  previous  dmner,  scoop  out  the  interior  «o 
as  to  leave  them  quite  shells,  chop  what  you  have  taken 
from  them  rather  coarse,  with  a  few  mushrooms,  mix  them 
with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  forcemeat  of  fowl  (No.  122;, 
season  well,  and  fill  each  truffle  with  it,  egg  them  all  over 
and  cover  with  some  chopped  truffles,  braise  them  slowly 
in  some  good  stock  for  one  hour,  and  serve  with  a  sauce  a 
la  puree  de  tmffes  (No.  6S)  under  them. 


No.  1119.  Omelette  (xuxfine%  herbes. 

Break  eight  e^  in  a  stewpan,  to  which  add  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  very  finely  chopped  eschalots,  one  of  chopped  parsley, 
half  ditto  of  salt,  a  pinch  of  pepper,  fixA  three  good  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cream,  beat  them  well  together,  then  put  two 
ounces  of  butter  in  an  omelette  pan,  stand  it  over  a  sharp 
fire,  and  as  soon  as  the  butter  is  hot  pour  in  the  eggs,  stir 
them  round  quickly  with  a  spoon  until  delicately  set,  then 
shake  the  pan  round,  leave  it  a  moment  to  colour  the 
omelette,  hold  the  pan  in  a  slanting  position,  just  tap  it 
upon  the  stove  to  bring  the  omelette  to  a  proper  shape,  and 
roll  the  flap  over  with  a  spoon,  turn  it  upon  your  dish, 
glaze  lightly,  and  serve  with  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  good 
demi-glace  (No.  9)  round ;  omelettes  must  not  be  too  much 
done,  and  must  be  served  as  soon  as  done. 

No.  1120.   Omelette  au  Jambon, 

Break  eight  eggs,  season,  beat  and  fry  as  above,  but 
adding  two  ounces  of  lean  cooked  ham,  minced  and  chopped 
with  the  eggs,  and  using  but  half  the  quantity  of  salt,  glaze 
and  sauce  round  precisely  as  above. 


VEGETABLES,  ETC.  475 

No,  1121.  Omelette  aux  TSrvffea. 

Make  an  omelette  as  for  fines  herbes,  with  the  addition  of 
two  preserved  truffles  chopped  very  fine,  have  also  three 
middling-sized  truffles  cut  in  slices,  reduce  half  a  pint  of 
sauce  demi-glace  (No.  9)  one  third,  add  a  little  sugar  and 
the  truffles,  boil  three  minutes,  have  the  omelette  Med  in 
the  pan,  and  when  just  ready  to  turn  out  upon  the  dish, 
put  the  truffles  in  the  centre,  with  some  of  the  sauce,  turn 
the  flap  over  with  a  spoon,  turn  on  to  your  dish,  glaze,  and 
pour  the  remainder  of  the  sauce  round. 

No.  1122.   Omelette  anx  Champiffnofis, 

Proceed  exactly  as  for  the  last,  merely  substituting 
mushrooms  for  the  truffles. 

No.  1123.   Omelette  aux  Olives, 

Boil  half  a  pint  of  sauce  demi-glace  (No.  9)  in  a  stewpan, 
reduce  it  one  third,  then  add  twelve  stoned  olives,  and  a 
Uttle  sugar ;  make  an  omelette  as  for  fines  herbes,  put  the 
olives  in  the  interior,  glaze,  and  sauce  round. 

No.  1124.  Omelette  a  la  Jardiniere. 

Prepare  rather  more  than  half  a  pint  of  sauce  a  la  jardi- 
niere (No.  100),  have  it  hot  in  a  stewpan,  then  make  an 
omelette  as  before,  and  when  ready  to  turn  upon  your  dish 
put  some  of  the  sauce  in  the  centre ;  glaze  the  omelette,  pour 
the  remainder  of  the  sauce  round,  and  serve. 

No.  1125.  Omelette  aux  Huitres. 

Put  half  a  pint  of  good  oyster  sauce  (No.  69)  in  a 
stewpan,  let  it  be  well  seasoned,  reduce  it  one  third,  add 
twelve  or  sixteen  blanched  oysters,  let  boil  up,  then  stir  in  a 
liaison  of  one  yolk  of  egg  mixed  with  a  tablespooufiil  of 


476  VBGETABLB8,  ETC. 

cream ;  do  not  let  it  boil ;  when  it  thickens  have  an  omelette 
as  in  the  last ;  pour  the  sauce  over,  glaze,  and  serve. 

No.  1126.  Omelette  auxJUets  de  Sales. 

Put  half  a  pint  of  good  thic^  oyster  sauce  in  a  stewpon  upon 
the  fire ;  you  have  previously  filleted  a  middling-sized  sole, 
cut  each  fillet  into  six  or  eight  small  pieces,  and  when  the 
sauce  boils  throw  them  in,  boil  three  minutes,  finish  the 
sauce  with  a  liaison,  and  proceed  as  in  the  last. 

No.  1127.  Omelettes  auw  Modes. 

Proceed  exactly  as  for  omelette  aux  huitres,  but  using 
muscles  and  sauce  (see  No.  70)  instead  of  oysters. 

No.  1128.   Omelette  de  Homard. 

Make  about  half  a  pint  of  nice  red  lobster  sauce  (No.  68), 
into  which  put  the  flesh  of  a  small  lobster  cut  in  dice ;  when 
hot  have  ready  an  omelette  as  before,  put  some  of  the  sauce 
in  the  interior,  turn  out  upon  your  dish,  glaze,  and  pour 
the  remainder  of  the  sauce  round. 

No.  1129.   Omelette  au  Sucre. 

Break  eight  eggs  into  a  stewpan,  into  which  put  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  sugar  and  four  tablespoonfiils  of  cream;  put 
two  ounces  of  butter  in  an  omelette-pan  when  quite  hot,  but 
not  discoloured,  pour  in  the  eggs,  and  proceed  as  for  the 
omelette  aux  fines  herbes  (No.  1119),  turn  out  upon  yoitf 
dish,  shake  some  powdered  sugar  over,  salamander  a  nieo 
colour,  and  serve. 

No.  1130.   Omelette  au  Confiture. 

Make  an  omelette  precisely  as  in  the  last,  and  just  "before 
turning  it  upon  your  dish  put  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of 
jam  or  marmalade  in  the  centre,  sugar  over,  salamander^ 
and  serve. 


VEGETABLB8,  ETC.  477 

No.  1131.   Omelette  au  Bhum. 

The  same  as  the  last,  but  the  moment  of  going  to  table 
pour  three  glasses  of  ram  romid  and  set  it  on  fire. 

Sweet  omelettes  may  also  be  served  with  apricots  passed 
in  sugar  or  rhubarb,  as  directed  in  Nos.  1 142,  1184 ;  for 
the  remainder  of  entremets  of  eggs,  see  Kitchen  at  Home. 


478 


ENTREMETS. 


Obarivations  upon  Pastry, 

Althotjoh  the  art  of  making  pastry  is  very  nearly  as  old 
as  the  world,  having  been  the  delight  of  the  ancients,  and 
of  the  sensual  inhabitants  of  Asia,  it  is  only  within  the  last 
twenty  years  that  it  has  attained  any  degree  of  perfection, 
which  is  partly  due  to  the  talent  and  intelligence  of  my  il- 
lustrious compatriot  and  confrere,  Careme,  who  has  left 
little  or  no  room  for  innovation  in  that  vast  field  of  culi- 
nary deHght ;  but  I  shaU  endeavour  as  much  as  possible  to 
simplify  the  present  excellent  system,  and  introduce  as  much 
novelty  as  I  can  into  that  department,  which  is  considered  the 
greatest  ornament  of  the  second  course ;  I  must  here  likewise 
observe  that  as  ages  change  so  also  do  the  fashions.  Fifteen 
years  ago  large  ornamental  pieces,  (or  pieces  montees,)  were 
veiy  much  in  vogue,  but  at  the  present  time  I  know  many 
epicures  that  would  object  to  sit  down  before  those  once  fa- 
vorite monuments,  or  colossal  sugar  ornaments,  the  modem 
table  embellishments  having .  very  properly  fallen  into  the 
hands  of  the  silversmith.  Simplicity,  the  mother  of  elegance, 
being  now  the  order  of  the  day. 

Of  different  sorts  of  Paste. 

The  variety  of  pastes  is  to  the  pastry  what  first  stocks 
are  to  soups  and  sauces,  and  must  be  very  properly  first 
described,  particularly  as  it  is  here  to  which  I  must  refer 
my  readers  for  paste  even  used  for  the  hors-d'oeuvres  and 
entrees ;  to  succeed  you  must  be  particular  in  your  propor- 
tions, and  very  careful  in  the  mixing,  for  although  there  n 


ENTREMETS.  47  0\ 

nothing  more  simple  if  pains  be  taken,  so  will  the  least 
neglect  produce  a  failure,  nor  is  it  only  with  the  making 
of  the  paste  that  pains  must  be  taken,  but  likewise  with  the 
baking,  for  as  paste  badly  made  would  not  improve  in 
baking,  neither  will  paste,  however  well  made,  be  good  if 
badly  baked ;  should  the  oven  be  too  hot  the  paste  would 
become  set  and  bum  before  it  was  done ;  and,  again,  if  too 
cold  it  would  give  the  paste  a  dull  heavy  appearance,  but 
an  oven  properly  heated  (which  can  be  readily  known  by  a 
little  attention  on  the  part  of  those  in  the  habit  of  using  it) 
will  give  it  a  clear  briUiant  appearance. 

For  every  description  of  pastry  made  from  puff  paste,  try 
if  the  oven  is  hot  by  placing  your  hand  about  half  way  in, 
and  hold  it  there  about  a  quarter  of  a  minute,  if  you  can 
hold  it  there  that  time  without  inconvenience  it  would  not 
be  hot  enough,  but  if  you  cannot  judge  of  the  heat,  the 
safest  method  would  be,  try  a  piece  of  the  paste  previous  to 
baking  the  whole;  I  apply  these  few  observations  to  all 
my  readers,  but  particularly  to  the  uninstructed,  as  a  person 
of  continual  practice  cannot  fail  to  be  aware  of  the  truth 
of  them. 

No.  1182.  Puff  Paste. 

Put  one  pound  of  flour  upon  your  pastry  slab,  make  a 
hole  in  the  centre  in  which  put  the  yolk  of  one  egg  and  the 
juice  of  a  lemon,  with  a  pinch  of  salt,  mix  it  with  cold 
water  (iced  in  summer,  if  convenient)  into  a  softish  flexible 
paste,  vrith  the  right  hand  dry  it  off  a  httle  with  flour  until 
you  have  well  cleared  the  paste  from  the  slab,  but  do  not 
work  it  more  than  you  can  possibly  help,  let  remain  two 
minutes  upon  the  slab ;  then  have  a  pound  of  fresh  butter 
fi'om  which  you  have  squeezed  all  the  buttermilk  in  a  cloth, 
bringing  it  to  the  same  consistency  as  the  paste,  upon 
which  place  it ;  press  it  out  with  the  hand,  then  fold  the 


480  ENTREMETS. 

paste  in  three  so  as  to.  hide  the  butter,  and  roll  it  with  the 
rolling-pin  to  the  thickness  of  a  quarter  of  an  inch,  thus 
making  it  about  two  feet  in  length,  fold  over  one  third,  over 
which  again  pass  the  rolling-pin ;  then  fold  over  the  other 
third,  thus  forming  a  square,  place  it  with  the  ends  top  and 
bottom  before  you,  shaking  a  little  flour  both  under  and 
over,  and  repeat  the  rolls  and  turns  twice  again  as  before ; 
floiur  a  baking-sheet,  upon  which  lay  it,  upon  ice  or  in 
some  cool  place  (but  in  summer  it  would  be  almost  im- 
possible to  make  this  paste  well  without  ice)  for  half  an 
hoiu*,  then  roll  twice  more,  turning  it  as  before,  place 
again  upon  the  ice  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  give  it  two  more 
i\)lls,  making  seven  in  all,  and  it  is  ready  for  use  when  re- 
quired, rolling  it  whatever  thickness  (according  to  what  you 
intend  making)  directed  in  the  following  receipts.  When 
I  state  that  upwards  of  a  hundred  diiferent  kinds  of  cakes 
may  be  made  from  this  paste,  I  am  sure  it  will  be  quite 
sufficient  to  urge  upon  every  cook  the  necessity  of  paying 
every  attention  to  its  fabrication,  as  it  will  repay  for  the 
study  and  trouble. 

No.  1133.  Puff  Paste  with  Beef  Suet. 

Where  you  cannot  obtain  good  butter  for  making  paste, 
the  following  is  an  excellent  substitute :  skin  and  chop  one 
pound  of  kidney  beef  suet  very  fine,  put  it  into  a  mortar 
and  pound  it  well,  moistening  with  a  little  oil,  until  be- 
coming as  it  were  one  piece,  and  about  the  consistency  of 
butter,  proceed  exactly  as  in  the  last  using  it  instead  of 
butter. 

No.  1134.  Half  Puff  Paste. 

Put  one  pound  of  flour  upon  your  pastry  slab  with  two 
ounces  of  butter,  rub  well  together  with  the  hands,  make  a 
hole  in  the  centre,  in  which  put  a  pinch  of  salt  and  the  yolk 


ENTREMETS.  481 

of  an  egg  with  the  juice  of  a  lemon ;  mix  with  water  as  be- 
fore, then  roll  it  out  thin  and  lay  half  a  pound  of  butter 
(prepared  as  for  puff  paste)  rolled  into  thin  sheets  over,  fold 
it  in  three,  roll  and  fdld  again  twice  over,  lay  it  in  a  cold 
place  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  give  another  roll  and  it  ia 
ready  for  use  where  required ;  this  paste  is  mostly  used  for 
fruit  tarts,  for  which  it  is  well  adapted. 

No.  1135.*  Fate  a  dresser. 

Put  three  pounds  of  the  best  flour  upon  your  pastry  slab, 
make  a  hole  in  the  centre,  in  which  put  a  poimd  of  butter, 
half  an  ounce  of  salt,  and  the  yolks  of  six  eggs ;  the  butter 
must  not  be  too  firm,  add  half  a  pint  of  water,  squeeze  all 
weU  together  with  your  hand,  mixing  the  flour  in  by  de- 
grees, tearing  well  to  pieces  with  the  right  hand,  holding 
it  with  the  left  until  it  forms  a  smooth  but  stiffish  paste, 
but  if  so  stiff  that  you  cannot  work  it  without  cracking, 
press  out  flat  with  your  hand,  sprinkle  water  upon  it,  fold 
over,  press  out  again,  proceeding  in  like  manner  until  you 
have  obtained  the  consistency  required ;  you  must  also  be 
careful  not  to  make  it  too  soft,  as  in  either  case  you  would 
not  be  able  to  use  it.  This  paste  must  not  be  too  much 
worked  after  it  is  mixed  or  it  would  become  greasy ;  more 
care  must  be  exercised  in  summer  than  in  winter  in  this 
respect,  it  is  used  for  raised  pies  either  hot  or  cold. 

« 

No.  1136.  Pate  fine  or  Pate  a  f oncer. 

Put  three  pounds  of  best  flour  upon  your  pastry  slab, 

,  make  a  hole  in  the  centre,  in  which  put  an  ounce  of  salt, 

two  pounds  of  fresh  butter,  six  eggs,  and  suflScient  water  to 

form  it  into  a  rather  stifKsh  paste  (it  will  require  about  half 

a  pint),  mix  well  tc^ether,  drawing  in  the  flour  by  degrees ; 

*  For  the  dMcniption  to  make  hot  water  paste  for  raised  pies,  see  pftt6  chaud 
(No.  618).  31 


482  SNTEEMETS. 

when  well  mixed,  roll  out  four  times  as  for  puff  paste,  let 
remain  half  an  hour  and  it  is  ready  for  use  where  directed. 

No.  1137.  Pale  d^  Office  or  Confectioner' $  Paste. 

Weigh  one  pound  and  a  half  of  flour,  which  put  upon 
your  slab,  make  a  hole  in  the  centre,  in  which  put  cme 
pound  of  sifted  sugar,  mix  it  well  with  twelve  e^s  into  a 
stiffish  paste,  having  first  well  dissolved  the  sugar  with  the 
eggs,  work  it  well,  it  is  then  ready  for  use. 

This  paste  was  very  much  used  when  pieces  montees 
were  so  much  in  vogue,  but  in  the  several  receipts  in  which 
it  is  referred  to,  it  is  used  upon  quite  a  new  principle,  and 
very  much  simplified ;  this  paste,  with  the  above  proportions, 
ought  to  be  very  stiff,  but  still  pliable  enough  to  be  worked 
without  breaking ;  should  it  be  too  stiff  add  more  eggs,  or 
too  soft  more  flour,  the  half  or  quarter  of  the  above  quantity 
may  of  coarse  be  made. 

No.  1138.  Pate  d'Amande. 

Blanch  a  pound  of  almonds,  put  one  fourth  of  them 
into  a  mortar,  pound  well,  moistening  with  a  little  water 
to  prevent  them  oiling ;  when  pounded  to  a  paste  take  it 
out,  add  another  fourth,  and  proceed  in  like  manner  till 
they  are  all  done,  then  rub  them  through  a  hair  sieve  and 
put  them  into  a  preserving  pan  with  one  pound  and  a  half 
of  sifted  sugar,  set  over  a  slow  but  equal  fire,  keep  stirring 
for  about  five-and-twenty  minutes,  clearing  it  &om  the 
sides  of  the  pan,  press  with  your  fing^  and  if  it  feels 
tough  take  it  out  and  put  in  the  mortar  with  the  ei^th 
of  an  ounce  of  gum  tragacauth,  soaked  and  squeezed 
through  a  napkin ;  add  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  pound 
well  together  till  quite  cold,  it  is  then  ready  for  use,  but  if 
not  used  directly  roll  it  up  in  a  ball  and  place  it  upon  a 
plate  under  a  basin  to  keep  moist,  it  will  keep  for  weeks  if 


ENTREMETS.  488 

moist.  Of  this  paste  you  can  form  stands,  or  convert  it  into 
any  ornament  your  fancy  may  direct.  Low  stands  are  the 
best  for  entremets,  being  much  better  than  the  old-fashioned 
ones,  that  were  made  eight  or  ten  inches  in  height,  and 
when  a  jeUy  or  cream  served  upon  in  was  cut  even  by  the 
most  experienced  person  as  soon  as  the  first  spoonful  was 
taken  the  remainder  was  often  seen  dancing  upon  the  table,  to 
the  horror  of  all  persons  of  good  taste.  For  myself  I  never 
use  anything  of  the  description,  except  for  cold  luncheon 
or  supper,  and  even  then  of  the  most  simple  construction. 

No.  1139.  Pastillojie  or  Gum  Paste. 

Put  two  ounces  of  gum  tragacanth  into  a  small  basin, 
pour  a  quart  of  filtered  water  over  it,  and  cover  the  basin 
with  a  sheet  of  paper  to  keep  it  firee  from  dust ;  let  soak 
twenty-four  hours,  then  pour  off  the  water  and  place  the 
gum  in  a  strong  cloth,  through  which  squeeze  it  on  to  a 
plate>  not  leaving  a  particle  in  the  cloth ;  then  place  it  upon 
your  pastry  slab,  work  it  round  with  your  hand  until  as 
white  as  cream,  have  an  equal  quantity  of  starch-powder, 
and  powdered  sugar,  which  you  have  passed  through  a  silk 
sieve,  work  it  in  by  degrees,  keeping  it  well  worked  with 
the  hand  until  it  becomes  a  stiffish  paste,  firm  enough  to 
roll  and  cut  into  any  shape  required.  It  may  be  used  in- 
stead qS.  pate  d'amande. 

No.  1140.   VoUaU'VenU 

Of  all  things  in  pastry  require  the  most  care  and  preci- 
sion; they  that  can  make  a  good  vol-au-vent  may  be 
stamped  as  good  pastrycooks,  although  many  variations  in 
working  puff  paste,  all  others  are  of  a  secondary  importance. 
Make  a  pound  of  puff  paste  (No.  1182)  giving  it  only  six 
rolls  and  a  half  instead  of  seven,  leave  it  an  inch  in  thick* 
ness,  make  a  mark  upon  the  top  either  round  or  oval,  and 
according  to  the  size  of  your  dish,  then  with  a  sharp- 


484  BNTEBMKT8. 

pointed  knife  cut  it  out  from  the  paste,  holding  the  knife 
with  the  point  slanting  outwards ;  turn  it  over,  mark  the 
edges  with  the  back  of  your  knife,  and  place  it  upon  a 
baking  sheet,  which  you  have  sprinkled  with  water ;  egg 
over  the  top,  then  dip  the  point  of  the  knife  into  hot  water, 
and  cut  a  ring  upon  the  top  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep,  and 
half  an  inch  from  the  edge  of  the  vol-au-vent,  set  in  a 
rather  hot  oven,  if  getting  too  much  colour  cover  over  with 
a  sheet  of  paper,  do  not  take  it  out  before  done,  or  it 
would  fall,  but  when  quite  set  cut  off  the  Ud  and  empty  it 
with  a  knife  ;  if  for  first  course  it  is  ready,  but  if  for  second, 
sift  sugar  all  over,  which  glaze  with  the  salamander.  Re- 
gulate the  thickness  of  the  paste  from  which  you  cut  the  vol- 
au-vent,  according  to  the  size  you  require  it,  the  smaller  ones 
of  course  requiring  thinner  paste.  A  vol-au-vent  for  entrees 
will  take  about  half  an  hour  to  bake,  and  as  the  common 
iron  ovens  often  throw  out  more  heat  upon  one  side  than 
the  other,  it  will  require  turning  two  or  three  times  to  cause 
it  to  rise  equal ;  it  ought  to  be  when  baked  of  a  light  gold 
colour. 

No.  1 141.   VbUau-vent  de  Peches. 

Put  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar  in  a  sugar-pan, 
with  the  juice  of  a  lemon  and  about  half  a  pint  of  water, 
place  it  upon  the  fire  and  boil  till  becoming  a  thickish 
sjrrup ;  then  have  twelve  peaches  not  quite  ripe,  which  cut 
in  halves,  break  their  stones  and  blanch  the  kernels,  throw 
six  halves  with  the  kernels  into  the  syrup,  boil  three  mi- 
nutes, take  them  out  with  a  skimmer,  lay  them  upon  a  dish 
and  take  off  their  skins,  stew  the  rest  in  syrup  in  like  man- 
ner, six  at  a  time ;  when  all  done  pow  what  liquor  runs 
from  them  again  into  the  syrup,  which  reduce  to  a  good 
thickness,  pass  it  through  a  tammie  into  a  basin,  when  cold 
pour  a  little  over  the  peaches  and  leave  until  ready  to  serve, 
dress  the  peaches  in  your  vol-au-vent  with  the  sjrrup  over. 


ENTREMETS.  485 

served  as  a  compote  with  small  pastry  around  it ;  in  stew- 
ing the  fruit,  be  careful  that  it  does  not  catch  in  the  least,  a 
round-bottomed  pan  or  regular  sugar-pan  is  the  best  to  use 
for  this  purpose,  but  if  not  convenient  a  common  stewpan 
may  be  used. 

No.  1142.   VoUaU'Vent  d* Abricots. 

Cut  twelve  apricots,  not  quite  ripe,  in  halves,  break  their 
stones  and  blanch  their  kernels,  which  with  the  apricots  put 
into  a  sugar-pan  with  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  lump 
sugar  broken  into  small  pieces,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  a 
glass  of  sherry ;  stew  them  ten  minutes  over  a  quick  fire, 
moving  them  round  occasionaUy,  then  pour  them  into  a 
basin,  which  stand  upon  the  ice,  when  quite  cold  fiU  your 
vol-au-vent  and  serve ;  should  the  apricots  be  quite  ripe,  pro- 
ceed as  directed  for  the  peaches,  but  leaving  their  skins  on. 

No.  1143.   VoUau-vent  of  Greengages, 

Proceed  exactly  as  in  the  last,  only  using  twenty  or 
twenty-four  greengages  instead  of  the  apricots. 

No.  1144.   VoUavr-vent  de  Cerises. 

Pick  and  stone  four  pounds  of  cherries,  which  put  into  a 
pan  vrith  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  stew 
them  about  twenty  minutes  over  a  sharp  fire,  moving  them 
occasionally,  place  them  upon  the  ice  till  cold,  when  fill 
your  vol-au-vent  and  serve.  Should  the  syrup  be  too  thick, 
reduce  it  until  thick  enough  to  envelop  the  fruit. 

No.  1145.   VoUau-vent  de  Poires. 

Take  twelve  middling-sized  ripe  pears,  which  cut  in 
halves,  peel  them  neatly,  and  take  out  the  cores ;  throw 
them  into  a  pan,  in  which  you  have  put  the  juice  of  two 
lemons,  and  the  thin  rind  of  one  cut  in  thin  strips  and  three 


486  ENTR£M]fiT8. 

quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar  broken  small ;  pass  them  over 
a  sharp  fire,  moving  them  occasionally  till  tender,  put  them 
upon  the  ice  to  get  cold ;  when  ready,  fill  your  vol-au-vent, 
and  serve. 

No.  1146.   VoUau-vent  de  Pommes, 

Procure  twenty  small  golden  pippins,  peel  them  neatly, 
and  take  out  the  cores  with  a  long  round  vegetable  cutter ; 
rub  them  over  with  lemon,  and  stew  till  tender  in  syrup 
made  firom  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar  as  for  the 
peaches  (No.  1141) ;  when  cold  dress  them  as  high  as  pos- 
sible in  a  vol-au-vent,  and  when  ready  to  serve,  pour  the 
syrup  over. 

No.  1147.   Vol-au-vent  S  Oranges, 

Take  ten  fine  oranges,  cut  them  in  halves,  peel  them, 
but  not  to  lose  their  shapes,  have  a  rather  thicker  syrup 
than  usual,  simmer  the  oranges  five  minutes,  ten  at  a 
time,  lay  them  upon  a  dish,  reduce  the  syrup,  and  when 
cold  dress  in  pyramid  in  a  vol-au-vent,  and  pour  the  syrup 
over. 

No.  1148.   Gateau  de  Millefeuille  a  la  Modeme, 

Make  a  pound  of  puff  paste,  give  it  nine  rolls,  roll  out 
to  the  thickness  of  two  penny-pieces,  from  which  cut  ten 
round  pieces,  each  about  five  inches  in  diameter,  sprinkle 
water  over  two  baking-sheets,  upon  which  lay  them,  wet 
lightly  with  water,  and  sprinkle  a  little  rou^  sugar  over 
them,  but  not  too  coarse;  bake  very  crisp  in  a  mode- 
rate oven,  keeping  them  as  white  as  possible;  when 
baked  lay  one  upon  your  dish,  which  cover  with  apricot 
marmalade ;  then  another,  which  cover  with  orange  mar- 
melade;  then  another,  which  cover  with  currant  jelly, 
proceeding  thus  to  the  top ;  when  finished  mask  the  whole 


BNTBXMBTS.  487 

over  with  apricot  marmalade,  spfriukling  plenty  of  very  finely 
chopped  pistachios  roimd,  and  decorate  the  top  with  what 
dessert  fruits  you  have  in  season,  cherries,  strawberries,  or 

No.  1149.  Turban  a  la  Creme  aux  Macarons  amers. 

Give  half  a  pound  of  puff  paste  (No.  1132)  ten  rolls, 
and  from  it  cut  eight  round  pieces  of  the  same  size  as  in 
the  last ;  then  with  the  same  cutter  cut  three  pieces  out  of 
each  in  the  form  of  middUng-sized  leaves,  wet  Ughtly  upon 
the  top,  and  dip  them  into  some  coarse  sugar  (pounded  and 
sifted  through  a  coarse  wire  sieve),  place  them  upon  a  wet 
baking-sheet,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  as  white  as 
possible ;  then  have  ready  a  round  board  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  thick,  and,  according  to  the  size  of  your  dish,  made  of 
pate  d'office  (No.  1137)  and  baked  in  a  moderate  oven; 
boil  also  half  a  pound  of  sugar  au  casse  (No.  1379),  dip 
the  ends  of  the  pieces  of  pastry  singly  into  it,  and  build 
them  in  crown  upon  the  rim  of  your  board,  one  row  sur- 
mounted by  another,  dressed  the  reverse  way;  make  a 
meringue  mixture  with  two  whites  of  eggs  (see  No.  1218), 
which  lay  in  fillets,  with  a  paper  comet  upon  the  top; 
sprinkle  over  with  some  very  green  chopped  pistachios,  and 
set  in  a  warm  place  to  dry,  but  not  any  longer  than  ne- 
cessary ;  whip  a  pint  of  good  double  cream  very  stiff,  with 
which  noix  a  Uttle  sugar,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  crushed 
ratafias,  and  a  glass,  of  good  noyeau ;  put  the  cream  in  the 
turban  when  ready  to  serve. 

No.  1150.  Fuit  de  Fruit  aux  BlancheB  Couronnes. 

Make  half  a  pound  of  puff  paste  (No.  1132)  give  it  nine 
rolls,  from  it  cut  eight  round  pieces  half  an  inch  in  thickness, 
then  with  a  cutter,  four  sizes  smaller,  cut  a  piece  from  the 
centre  of  each,  so  as  to  form  rings;  place  them  upon  a 


48  S  ENTBXMET8. 

baking-sheet,  wet  the  tops  lightly,  and  sprinkle  a  little 
coarse  sugar  over;  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven  as  white 
as  possible,  dress  one  upon  the  bottom  of  your  dish,  cover 
it  with  a  sweetmeat  of  some  description,  and  proceed  in 
like  manner  to  the  top ;  fill  with  any  of  the  fruits  as  de- 
scribed for  the  vol-au-vents,  have  a  little  cream  whipped 
very  stiff  lay  it  in  piping  with  a  paper  comet,  between  each 
ring,  and  garnish  the  top  tastefully  with  fillets  of  red  currant 
jeUy  or  green  angeUca. 

No.  1151.   Gateau  de  Pithiviers. 

Blanch  and  pound  well  half  a  pound  of  almonds,  moist- 
ening them  with  a  little  white  of  egg  to  keep  them  from 
oiling ;  put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  in  a  basin,  with 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  beat  well  together 
till  it  becomes  smooth  and  creamy,  then  add  the  yolks  of 
four  eggs ;  beat  two  minutes  longer,  add  the  pounded  al- 
monds, with  two  ounces  of  crushed  ratafias,  and  half  a  gill 
of  whipped  cream ;  you  have  previously  made  half  a  pound 
of  puff  paste  (No.  1132),  divide  it  nearly  in  halves,  having 
one  piece  larger  than  the  other,  mould  them  gently  into  two 
balls,  roll  out  the  smallest  to  the  thickness  of  a  penny, 
keeping  it  quite  round,  lay  it  upon  a  baking-sheet,  put  the 
above  mixture  in  the  centre,  and  spread  it  over,  leaving 
the  space  of  half  an  inch  from  the  edge  all  round,  roll  out 
the  other  piece  of  paste  rather  larger  and  thicker  than  the 
former,  wet  the  first  sheet  round  the .  edges  with  a  paste- 
brush,  and  cover  the  other  over,  closing  it  carefully,  trim 
and  notch  round,  egg  over  the  top,  and  with  the  back  of 
your  knife  sketch  some  design  upon  it ;  bake  three  quarters 
of  an  hour  in  a  warm  oven,  but  when  the  paste  is  sufficiently 
coloured,  cover  with  a  sheet  of  paper ;  when  done  sift  a  little 
sugar  over,  and  glaze  with  the  salamander. 

The  original  cake  is  baked  quite  white  by  using  water 


ENTREMETS.  489 

instead  of  eggs,  and  throwing  sugar  over ;  my  objection  to 
which  is^  that  many  people  in  this  country,  from  its  ap- 
pearance, fancy  it  is  not  sufficiently  baked,  and  must  be 
indigestible ;  it  may,  however,  be  baked  either  way,  accord- 
ing  to  fancy. 

No.  1152.  Tourte  cTHntremet  a  la  Creme. 

Make  a  piece  of  paste  thus :  place  six  ounces  of  iBour 
upon  your  slab,  with  three  ounces  of  butter,  rub  well  toge- 
ther, make  a  hole  in  the  centre,  in  which  put  one  egg,  a 
teaspoonful  of  powdered  sugar,  and  a  very  little  water,  mix 
well  together,  then  mix  the  whole  into  a  stiffish  paste ;  roll 
it  out  of  the  size  and  shape  you  want  your  tourte,  and  place 
it  upon  a  baking-sheet,  then  have  ready  a  pound  of  puff 
paste,  roll  it  to  about  three  quarters  of  an  inch  in  thickness^ 
cut  out  a  piece  exactly  of  the  same  size  and  shape  as  the 
other,  cut  out  the  centre,  so  as  to  leave  a  band  of  about  an 
inch  in  breadth,  wet  the  piece  of  paste  upon  the  baking- 
sheet,  and  place  the  band  upon  it  at  the  rim,  pressing 
down  lightly;  egg  it  upon  the  top,  but  do  not  let  it 
touch  the  side ;  mark  roimd  with  the  back  of  your  knife 
every  quarter  of  an  inch,  and  fill  the  interior  with  &angipane 
(No.  1295),  bake  about  half  an  hour  in  a  warm  oven,  and 
serve  when  cold. 

Should  you  require  the  tourte  for  a  flanc  instead  of  an 
entremet,  you  must  roll  the  paste  oval  instead  of  round, 
and  make  a  long  band  of  puff  paste,  which  lay  round  the 
rim,  carefully  joining  it  at  each  end,  by  cutting  one  end 
slantwise  under,  and  the  other  over,  making  it  of  the  same 
thickness ;  egg  the  band  upon  the  top,  but  do  not  let  it  run 
over  the  edges  previous  to  baking. 

No.  1153.  Iburte  d' Entremet  a  la  Mdrmelade  de  Fom^es. 
Prepare  a  sheet  of  paste  upon  a  baking-sheet  as  be* 


400  BNTRBlilTS. 

fore,  in  the  centre  of  which  put  some  apple  marmalade 
(No.  1889)  spread  it  within  an  inch  and  a  half  of  the  edges 
all  round,  ndl  out  a  piece  of  the  trimmings  of  puff  paste 
yery  thin,  from  which  cut  about  forty  narrow  bands,  wet 
the  edges  of  the  paste,  and  string  the  bands  tast^ully  ot^ 
the  marmalade,  forming  diamond  shapes;  have  ready  a 
band  of  puff  paste  as  in  the  last,  which  place  round  the 
apples,  pressing  it  closely  to  the  bottom  sheet,  egg  the  top, 
and  bake  as  in  the  last ;  when  done  shake  sugar  over  the 
top,  and  glaze  lightly  with  the  salamander. 

No.  1154.  Ihurte  d^Entremet  au  Confiture. 

Prepare  a  sheet  of  paste  upon  your  baking-sheet  as  be- 
fore, in  the  centre  of  which  put  some  apricot,  greengage,  or 
strawbeny  jam ;  roll  out  a  very  thin  sheet  of  puff  paste, 
wet  the  edges  of  the  sheet,  and  cover  over  the  jam,  closing 
it  down  at  the  edges ;  trim  it  level,  have  ready  a  band  of 
paste,  as  in  the  last,  wet  round,  place  the  band  round,  press 
it  close,  then  with  a  sharp-pointed  knife  make  incisions 
upon  the  thin  paste  over  the  marmalade,  cutting  quite 
through,  forming  some  fancy  design,  wet  sUghtly,  throw 
sugar  over,  egg  the  band  upon  the  top,  and  bake  as  beforo. 

No.  1155.  Tartelettes pralinees  aux  Abricota. 

Have  ready  buttered  twelve  or  as  many  small  tartelette 
pans  as  you  may  require,  line  each  one  with  a  piece  of  puff 
paste  cut  with  a  cutter  of  the  same  size  as  the  pans,  force 
up  the  edges  with  your  thumb  and  finger,  put  a  small  ball 
(made  of  stiff  flour  and  water  paste)  in  each,  and  bake 
them  nicely  in  a  very  hot  oven ;  when  done  take  out  the 
little  balls,  turn  the  tartelettes  upside  down,  shake  powdered 
sugar  over  the  bottom  of  each,  and  glaze  with  a  salamander, 
turn  them  over,  shake  sugar  in  the  interior,  which  also 
glaze  with  the  salamander ;  you  have  previously  chopped 


ENTREMETS.  401 

two  ounces  of  almonds  very  fine,  which  put  into  a  basin, 
with  two  ounces  of  sugar,  and  naix  well  with  the  white  of 
an  egg,  spread  a  little  upon  the  bottom  of  each  tartelette, 
shake  a  little  sugar  over  and  place  them  in  a  slow  oven  to 
dry ;  when  ready  to  serve  put  an  apricot  in  each,  stewed  as 
for  the  vol-au-vent  d'abricots  (No.  1142).  They  may  be 
served  salamandered  very  crisp  upon  both  sides,  omitting 
the  almonds. 

No.  1156.  Tartelettes  de  Pechea. 

Make  yoiu*  tartelettes  as  in  the  last  and  fill  with  peaches 
dressed  as  for  vol-au-vent  (No.  1141). 

No.  1157.  Tartelettes  aux  Cerises. 

Proceed  as  before,  filling  them  when  baked  with  cherries 
dressed  as  for  the  vol-au-vent  (No.  1144). 

No.  1158.  Tartelettes  aux  Groseilles  vertes. 

Make  the  tartelettes  as  before,  have  ready  three  pints  of 
young  greea  gooseberries,  which  put  into  a  sugar-pan  with 
three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  lump  sugar  and  half  a  wine- 
glassful  of  water,  place  them  over  a  sharp  fire,  moving  them 
round  occasionally  till  done,  which  you  may  ascertain  by 
their  shrivelled  appearance,  if  too  much  done  they  will 
become  quite  brown,  put  them  in  a  basin  and  leave  them 
till  quite  cold,  when  fill  the  tartelettes  and  serve. 

No.  1159.  Tartelettes  of  Greengages. 

Prepare  your  tartelettes  as  before  and  fiU  with  greengages 
prepared  as  directed  for  the  vol-au-vent  (No.  1143). 

No.  1160.  Tartelettes  aux  Praises. 

Prepare  the  tartelettes  as  before,  pick  a  fine  pottle  of 
strawberries,  which  put  into  a  basin,  with  two  ounces  of 


492  RNTIUBMST8. 

powdered  sagar  and  a  little  powdered  cinnamon,   shake 
them  well  together,  fill  the  tartelettes  and  serve. 

No.  1161.  Tartelettes  de  Pommes, 

Prepare  the  tartelettes  as  usual,  ahd  have  ready  prepared 
ten  apples  (golden  pippins)  cut  each  one  in  halves,  take  out 
the  cores  and  peel  them  neatly,  put  the  juice  of  a  lemon  in 
your  sugar-pan  into  which  throw  them  as  you  peel  them ; 
when  they  are  all  done  add  half  a  pound  of  lump  sugar 
and  a  little  thin  lemon-peel  cut  in  strips,  stew  them  gently 
till  tenda:  and  leave  them  to  get  cold  in  their  syrup,  then 
fill  the  tartelettes,  half  an  apple  in  each,  mix  a  little  apricot 
marmalade  with  the  syrup,  pour  a  little  over  each  and 
serve. 

No.  1162.  Tartelettes  de  Poires. 

Prepare  the  tartelettes  as  before,  then  have  eight  or  ten 
small  ripe  pears,  cut  them  in  halves  and  proceed  precisely 
as  with  the  apples  in  the  last,  serve  the  same. 

No.  1163.  Tartelettes  of  Cranberries, 

Prepare  the  tartelettes  as  directed,  then  have  ready  three 
pints  of  cranberries  which  you  have  drained  and  stewed 
over  a  sharp  fire,  with  one  pound  of  lump  sugar  and  two 
ounces  of  green  angelica  cut  in  fillets,  until  the  syrup  be- 
comes very  thick,  place  them  upon  the  ice  till  cold,  when 
fill  the  tartelettes  and  serve. 

The  cranberries  sold  in  London  I  believe  are  from 
America ;  they  are  tolerably  good,  but  nothing  to  compare 
to  those  I  have  used  in  Shropshire  and  Wales ;  they  grow 
in  that  part  of  the  countiy  in  meadows  close  to  the  water ; 
upon  my  first  going  there  I  was  quite  unacquainted  with 
the  merit  of  this  beautiful  fruit,  but  soon  perceived  that 
very  beautiful  entremets  might  be  made  from  them,  besides 


BNTRBMETS,  49S 

plain  tarts,  for  which  they  were  daily  used ;  their  bitterness 
and  peculiar  wild  flavour  rendering  them  very  palatable 
and  wholesome.  I  have  thought  proper  to  make  this  remark, 
knowing  that  so  few  people  are  aware  of  their  merit  and 
that  so  many  are  actually  spoilt  for  want  of  gathering. 

No.  1164.  Tartelettes  d"  Oranges. 

Prepare  the  tartelettes  as  described,  have  eight  oranges, 
peel  and  cut  off  the  white  pith  and  divide  each  orange  into 
twelve  pieces,  make  a  syrup  with  half  a  pound  of  sugar  and 
half  a  pint  of  water,  reduce  till  rather  thick,  then  throw  in 
half  the  oranges,  let  them  boil  one  minute,  take  them  out, 
lay  them  upon  a  dish,  and  put  in  the  remainder,  stew  one 
minute  as  before,  reduce  the  syrup  again,  and  when  nearly 
cold  pour  it  over  the  oranges ;  when  ready  fill  your  tarte- 
lettes and  serve. 

No.  1166.  Fauchonettes  a  la  Vanille. 

Line  eighteen  tartelette  pans  with  puff  paste  as  for  tarte- 
lettes, but  do  not  work  up  the  edges  so  high,  have  also  a 
creme  made  in  the  following  manner :  put  a  pint  of  milk 
into  a  stewpan  and  when  it  boils  put  in  a  stick  of  vanille, 
and  reduce  the  milk  to  half,  in  another  stewpan  have  the 
yolks  of  three  eggs,  with  an  oimce  and  a  half  of  powdered 
sugar  and  one  of  sifted  flour,  with  a  grain  of  salt,  pour  in 
the  milk,  taking  out  the  vanille,  place  over  a  slow  fire, 
keep  stirring  till  it  thickens;  when  cold  fill  the  tarte- 
lettes and  bake  them  nicely  in  a  moderate  oven,  when 
baked  and  cold  have  ready  a  meringue  mixture  of  four 
eggs,  (see  No.  1218,)  a  teaspoonful  of  which  lay  upon  each, 
spreading  it  quite  flat  with  a  knife,  make  a  ring  of  seven 
small  button  meringues  round  each  upon  the  top  with  a 
larger  one  in  the  centre,  sift  sugar  over  and  place  them  in  a 
slow  oven  till  of  a  light  brown  colour  and  the  meringue 


404  SNTBXMXTS. 

quite  crisp ;  to  serve^  dress  them  pyramidically  upon  your 
dish. 

No.  1166.  Dauphines. 

Line  eighteen  tartelette-pans  with  puff  paste,  and  place  a 
small  piece  of  apricot  or  other  marmalade  in  the  centre, 
which  cover  with  a  custard  made  as  directed  in  the  last, 
bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven  ;  when  cold  prepare  a  me- 
ringue mixture  (No.  1 2 1 8)  of  five  eggs,  with  which  form  a 
very  high  pyramid  upon  the  t(^  of  each  tartelette,  sift  sugar 
over  and  place  them  in  a  slow  oven  to  dry,  keeping  them 
very  white ;  serve  cold,  dressed  round  upon  a  napkin. 

I 

No.  1167.  Tartelettes  a  la  Pompadour. 

Line  eighteen  tartelette-pans  with  puff  paste,  have  also 
eighteen  pieces  of  brioche  paste  (No.  1321),  each  the  size  of 
a  walnut,  roll  them  out  to  the  thickness  of  a  penny-piece, 
keeping  them  round,  place  a  piece  of  apricot  or  other  mar- 
malade in  the  centre,  wet  the  paste,  fold  it  over  the  mar- 
malade to  form  a  ball,  and  turn  them  over  into  your  tarte^ 
lettes,  wet  the  tops,  turn  them  over  on  some  rough  pounded 
sugar,  place  them  upon  a  baking-sheet,  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven,  dress  pyramidically  upon  a  napkin  and  serve  quite 
I  hot. 

No.  1168.  Mirlitons  cmw  Fleurs  d' Orange, 

line  about  eighteen  or  twenty  tartelette-pans  with  puff 
paste,  then  put  an  ounce  of  powdered  candied  orange- 
flowers  in  a  basin,  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  crushed 
maccaroons,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  two  yolks  and 
two  whole  eggs,  with  a  grain  of  salt,  stir  altogether,  then 
add  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter  wanned  and  the  whites  of 
two  eggs  beat  up  very  stiff,  fill  the  tartelettes,  sift  sugar 
rather  thickly  over  and  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven. 


ENTRBICETS.  495 

No.  1169.  MirliUms  anus  Amandes. 

Proceed  exactly  as  in  the  last,  using  one  ounce  of  bitter 
and  one  ounce  of  sweet  almonds,  blanched,  dried,  and 
pounded,  and  two  ounces  of  maccaroons  instead  of  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound,  omitting  the  candied  orange-flowers. 

No.  1170.  Mirlitons  cm  Citron. 

Proceed  as  for  mirlitons  aux  fleurs  d'orange,  only  rubbing 
the  rind  of  a  lemon  upon  the  sugar  previous  to  pounding 
it,  and  omitting  the  orange-flowers. 

No.  1171-  Petita  Fol-at^veni8  a  la  ChantiUtf. 

Make  a  pound  of  puff  paste  (No.  1132),  when  done  roll 
it  to  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  with  a 
fluted  cutter  cut  out  twenty  pieces  rather  larger  than  a 
penny-piece  and  with  a  plain  round  cutter  the  size  of  a 
halfpenny,  cut  a  piece  from  the  centre  of  each,  leaving  the 
rings,  roll  up  the  trimmings  of  the  paste  to  the  same 
thickness  as  before,  firom  which  cut  twenty  more  pieces 
with  the  fluted  cutter,  sprinkle  a  baking-sheet  vrith  water^ 
upon  which  lay  them,  wet  lightly  upon  the  top,  and  place 
the  rings  over  very  even,  pressing  them  down  gently, 
egg  the  tops  and  bake  in  a  good  oven ;  when  done  sift 
sugar  over  and  glaze  with  the  salamander,  whip  half  a 
pint  of  double  cream,  to  which  add  a  little  sugar  pounded, 
with  a  few  candied  orange-flowers ;  when  the  vol-au-vents 
are  cold  put  a  little  marmalade  in  the  bottom  with  the 
cream  over  and  serve. 

No.  1172.  Petits  Vol-au-vents  aux  Jiricota, 

Make  the  vol-au-vents  as  in  the  last,  but  when  baked 
have  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar  boiled  au  cassS 
(No.  1379),  dip  the  top  erf  each  of  the  vol-au-vents  lightly 


496  ENTRSMXT8. 

into  it^  and  immediately  dip  them  in  white  sugar,  in  grains 
(that  is,  the  sugar  pounded  and  all  the  fine  sifted  from  it, 
which  again  sift  through  a  coarse  wire  sieve),  when  all  done 
fill  the  centre  with  some  good  apricot  marmalade,  or  small 
pieces  of  apricots,  peaches,  &c.,  as  prepared  for  the  large 
vol-au-vents. 

No.  1173.  Petits  Fol-au-vents  a  la  Gelee  mousseuse. 

Make  the  vol-au-vents  as  described  in  the  last,  but  dip- 
ping them  into  red  sugar  in  grains,  (see  No.  1375,)  instead 
of  white ;  when  done  put  a  pint  of  very  good  marasquino 
jelly  into  a  bowl,  melt  it,  place  it  upon  the  ice  and  keep 
whisking  till  set,  it  will  be  quite  white  and  frothy,  fill  the 
vol-au-vents,  and  serve  with  a  few  drops  of  marasquino 
sprinkled  over  and  a  very  fresh  strawberry  upon  the  top  of 
each,  or,  if  not  in  season,  a  brandied  cherry. 

No.  1174.  Petita  Putts  aux  Pistachios 

Are  made  the  same  as  the  vol-au-vent« ;  when  baked  dip 
the  tops  lightly  into  sugar  as  before,  and  dip  them  into 
chopped  pistachios  (veiy  green)  and  sugar  in  grains,  fill 
them  with  some  whipped  cream  flavoured  with  vanilla 
sugar  (No.  1877)  and  place  a  dried  cherry  upon  the  top. 

No.  1175.  Gateau  fourre  a  la  Oreme, 

Make  half  a  pound  of  puff  paste  (No.  1132),  when  done 
divide  it  into  two  parts,  one  a  fourth  larger  than  the  other, 
roll  them  up  into  two  balls  gently,  and  roll  the  first  into  a 
sheet  the  thickness  of  a  penny-piece,  sprinkle  a  baking- 
sheet  with  a  Uttle  water,  upon  which  lay  it,  put  some  fran- 
gipane  (No.  1295)  in  the  centre,  which  spread  to  within 
hidf  an  inch  of  the  edge  all  round,  and  three  quarters  of  an 
inch  in  thickness,  wet  the  edge  lightly,  then  lay  the  other 
sheet  of  paste  (which  vou  have  rolled  into  a  sheet,  thicker 


ENTREMET8.  49 


rf 


and  larger  than  the  first)  over,  close  it  well  at  the  edges, 
egg  it  well  over,  trim  round  with  your  knife,  sketch  some 
design  upon  the  top  with  the  point  of  a  knife,  bake  about 
three  quarters  of  an  hoor  in  a  moderate  oven ;  when  done 
sift  sugar  over  and  glaze  with  the  salamander ;  when  cold 
cut  it  into  pieces  two  inches  and  a  half  in  length  and  one  in 
breadth ;  dress  in  crown  upon  a  napkin  or  upon  a  border  of 
apple  marmalade. 

No.  1176.   Gateau  fourre  an  Confiture, 

Make  half  a  pound  of  puff  paste  and  proceed  as  in  the 
last,  spreading  apricot,  strawberry,  or  greengage  jam  about 
a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness  in  the  centre  instead  of 
the  frangipane,  finish  as  the  last,  but  it  wiU  not  take  so 
long  to  bake,  serve  the  same. 

No.  1177.  Oaieau  fourre^  ou  d'Jrtois,  aux  Pornmes. 

Peel  and  cut  t^a  apples  into  slices,  put  them  into  a 
jH^eserving-pan  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  six  ounces  of 
powdered  sugar,  some  thin  lemon-peel  cut  in  strips,  and  a 
a  little  powdered  cinamon,  pass  them  over  a  sharp  fire  till 
tender,  then  take  them  off,  mix  four  tablespoodfuls  of  apri- 
cot marmalade  with  them,  and  put  by  till  cold ;  make  half 
a  pound  of  puff  paste  and  proceed  as  before,  using  the 
above  preparation  instead  of  the  sweetmeats  before  men- 
tioned. 

No.  1178.   Gateau  fourre  AnglO'Frangais. 

Put  three  ounces  of  ground  rice  in  a  stewpan  with  which 
mix  gradually  a  pint  of  milk,  stir  over  the  fire  till  it 
thickens  and  the  rice  is  done ;  you  have  pounded  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds  and  one  ounce  of  bitter  with 
six  ounces  of  sugar,  put  them  in  the  stewpan  with  half  an 
ounce  of  candied  citron  cut  small  and  soaked  in  a  glass  of 

32 


498  ENTREMETS. 

marasqiiino,  which  ako  put  in,  add  five  eggs,  beat  alto- 
gether, and  stir  over  the  fire  till  it  again  thickens,  when 
cold  proceed  exactly  as  for  the  gateau  fourre  a  la  creme, 
substituting  the  above  preparation  for  the  frangipane. 

No.  1179.  Petit8  Gaieaux  fourrh  au  Confiture. 

Prepare  half  a  pound  of  puff  paste  (No.  1132),  which 
roll  into  a  long  band  three  inches  wide  and  nearly  a  quarter 
of  an  inch  thick,  have  it  upon  your  slab  before  you,  then 
place  rolls  of  jam  an  inch  and  a  half  in  length,  as  thick  as 
your  little  finger  and  two  inches  apart,  in  the  centre ;  wet 
the  edges  all  along  and  fold  the  paste  over,  press  down  with 
your  finger  round  each  piece  of  marmalade,  cut  them  out 
with  a  knife,  sprinkle  a  baking-sheet  with  water,  upon 
which  lay  them ;  egg  over,  and  with  the  point  of  a  knife 
sketch  a  leaf  upon  each,  cutting  nearly  through  the  paste, 
bake  them  nicely  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  when  done  sift 
sugar  over  and  glaze  with  the  salamander,  dress  them 
round  upon  a  border  of  apple  marmalade  when  cold,  or 
dress  in  pyramid.  Any  kind  of  sweetmeat  may  be  used  for 
these  kinds  of  gateaux,  but  observe,  it  requires  to  be  very 
firm,  for  if  soft  it  would  run  fix)m  the  paste,  and  give  them 
a  bad  appearance. 

No.  1180.  Petit8  Gatecmw  fourres  {round). 

Make  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  puff  paste,  bom  which 
cut  twelve  pieces  with  a  round  cutter  three  inches  and  a 
half  in  diameter  and  the  thickness  of  a  penny-piece,  then  roll 
out  the  trimmings,  from  which  cut  twelve  more  pieces  with 
a  plain  round  cutter  three  inches  in  diameter,  lay  a  small 
piece  of  the  preparation  of  apple  as  for  d'Artois  (No.  1177) 
in  the  middle  of  the  smaller  sheets  with  a  preserved  cherry 
upon  the  top,  wet  round  the  edges  lightly,  then  place  the 
larger  sheet  over,  press  it  well  down  upon  the  edges  with 


ENTREMETS.  499 

the  rim  of  the  smaller  cutter,  with  which  also  tat  them 
roimd ;  wet  lightly  over  and  place  a  small  ring  upon  the 
top,  sprinkle  white  sugar  in  rather  coarse  grains  over,  and 
bake  rather  white  in  a  moderate  oven,  when  cold  place 
a  fine  preserved  cherry  within  each  ring  upon  the  top,  and 
dress  them  in  pyramid ;  they  may  likewise  be  made  square 
or  any  other  shape,  by  following  the  above  directions,  they 
may  be  made  smaller  if  required. 

No.  1181.  Petits  Gateaux  fourreB  aux  Amandea. 

Make  the  cakes  exactly  as  above,  blanch  two  ounces  of 
sweet  almonds,  spHt  each  one  in  halves  (wet  the  top  of  the 
cakes),  and  with  them  form  a  rosette,  pressing  them  into 
the  paste;  place  a  ring  of  paste  upon  the  top  as  before, 
sprinkle  white  sugar  in  grains  over,  bake  them  nearly  white, 
when  done  fiU  the  ring  with  red  currant  jeUy,  and  when 
cold  serve  as  before. 

No.  1182.  Petits  Gateaux  fourrea  Meringue, 

Make  the  cakes  as  before,  but  omitting  the  almonds, 
when  baked  and  cold  prepare  a  meringue  mixture  of  three 
whites  of  eggs  (see  No.  1218),  which  put  into  a  paper 
comet,  and  with  it  pipe  a  rosette  tastefully  upon  each  ga- 
teau ;  throw  pounded  sugar  over,  shaking  off  all  that  does 
not  adhere  to  them,  place  them  in  the  screen  to  dry,  when 
dry  fill  each  cavity  with  currant,  apple,  or  quince  jeUy,  which 
will  have  a  very  pleasing  effect.  You  may  also  form  a  rope 
round  with  meringues,  which  sprinkle  with  green  and  red 
sugar  in  grains  (see  No.  1375),  filling  the  interior  with 
jellies  as  before,  they  may  be  made  oval  also. 

No.  1183.  Patisserie  d'Amandes  a  la  Conde. 

Make  half  a  pound  of  puff  paste,  give  it  nine  rolls,  rolling 
it  the  last  time  to  the  thickness  of  a  penny-piece,  have  ready 


500  KKTftXMETS. 

Uanched  and  chopped  half  a  pcMind  of  sweet  afanonds, 
which  pot  ill  a  basin  with  half  a  pound  of  powdo^  sogar 
and  the  whites  6[  two  e^,  or  little  more  if  required, 
spread  it  over  the  paste  the  thickness  of  a  shilling,  and  with 
a  knife  cut  the  paste  into  pieces  two  inches  and  a  half  in 
length  and  nearly  cHie  in  breadth,  place  them  upon  a 
baking-sheet,  and  bake  nicely  a  very  light  brown  colour  in 
a  moderate  oven,  dress  them  in  pyramid. 

No.  1184.  Turian  de  Cande  a  la  Mudarie. 

Dress  some  of  the  pastry  as  directed  in  the  last,  in  a 
crown  upon  a  border  of  apple  marmalade,  have  ready  a 
bundle  of  red  forced  rhubarb  (very  young),  which  put  into 
a  preserving-pan  with  one  pound  of  powdered  sugar  and  a 
wine-glassful  of  water,  stew  quickly  over  a  sharp  fire  keep- 
ing it  very  red,  the  syrup  must  be  very  thick  -,  when  quite 
cold  fill  the  centre  of  the  turban  and  serve.  AjHicots, 
apples,  pears,  peaches,  greengages,  or  any  other  fruits, 
dressed  as  for  vol-au-vents,  can  be  served  in  this  manner. 

No.  1185.  Petite  Gateemx  d'Jdricots. 

Make  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  puff  paste  (No.  1132), 
roll  it  to  the  thickness  of  a  penny-piece,  and  eat  it  into 
pieces  three  inches  square,  in  the  centre  of  which  put  a  roll 
of  apricot  marmalade  about  two.  inches  long  and  the  thick* 
ness  of  your  finger ;  wet  the  paste  sound  lightly,  and  fold  it 
over  in  the  form  of  a  book,  egg  over  and  bake  tbi^n  in  a  warm 
oven,  when  done  sift  sugar  over  and  glaze  with  the  sala- 
mander^ or  they  may  be  made  in  the  shape  of  diamonds  by 
cutting  the  paste  into  pieces  of  that  form,  and  covering  one 
over  the  other. 

No.  1186.  Petits  Gaieawo  renveraes. 
Make  half  a  pound  of  puff  paste,  roll  it  to  the  thickness 


BNTBSMS1«.  501 

of  a  halfpenny-piece,  and  with  a  round  cutter  cut  out 
twenty-four  pieces  rather  larger  than  a  five^shiiling  piece, 
wet  lightly  and  fold  them  over  forming  half  circles^  wet  the 
top,  dip  into  some  coarse  sugar  in  grains  and  bake  on  a 
baking-sheet  in  a  moderate  oven  of  a  light  colom*,  cut 
fillets  of  currant  jeUy,  with  which  garnish  by  piping  them 
in  the  separation  with  a  paper  cornet,  and  serve  dressed 
in  pyramid. 

No.  1187.  P elites  Boiicheea  a  la  JPatimere, 

Make  half  a  pound  of  puff  paste,  from  which  cut  fifteen 
pieces  the  thickness  of  a  penny-piece,  with  an  oval  fluted 
cutter  two  inches  and  a  half  in  length  and  one  and  a  half 
in  breadth,  wet  them  upon  the  top ;  then  roll  out  the  trim- 
mings, from  which  cut  twenty  an  inch  in  diameter,  taking 
out  the  centre  with  a  smaller  cutter,  thus  forming  them 
into  rings,  place  them  upon  the  top  exactly  in  the  centre, 
wet  the  rings  lightly,  dip  the  tops  into  some  white  sugar  in 
grains,  place  them  upon  a  baking-sheet,  and  bake  them  a 
light  colour ;  when  done  fill  the  ring  with  a  little  currant  or 
apple  jelly,  a  dried  cherry,  or  any  description  of  preserve. 

No.  1188.  JEventail  auw  Cerises, 

Make  half  a  pound  of  puff  paste  (No.  1132),  which  roll 
to  the  thickness  of  half  an  inch,  cut  it  in  strips  a  quarter  of 
an  inch  wide  and  three  inches  long^  lay  them  upon  their 
sides  upon  the  baking-sheet,  leaving  them  room  to  spread, 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven,  when  done  sift  sugar  over  and 
glaze  vnth  the  salamander,  dress  them  in  a  crovm  upon  a 
border  of  apple  marmalade,  with  cherries  in  the  centre 
dressed  as  for  vol-au-vent  (No,  1144). 

No.  1189.  Petits  GateaUtV  a  la  Boyale. 
Make  half  a  ^x)\md  of  puff  paste  (No.  1132),  which  roll 


502  ENTRBMST8. 

to  the  thickness  of  a  penny-piece,  beat  three  quarters  of  a 
pound  of  finely  sifted  sugar  in  a  basin  with  the  whites  of 
two  ^gs  and  a  little  kmon-juice ;  if  too  stiff  add  a  little 
more  white  of  egg,  beat  well,  spread  over  the  sheet  of  paste, 
and  cut  it  into  pieces  three  inches  long  and  one  broad,  lay 
them  upon  your  baking-sheet  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven. 

There  are  hkewiae  a  great  many  small  cakes  which  may 
be  made  £ix)m  puff  paste  in  all  variety  of  forms,  with  dif- 
ferent shaped  cutters,  and  ornamented  with  different  pre- 
serves, or  meriugued  in  any  pattern  or  design  you  may 
fieaicy,  but  these  must  be  left  entirely  to  the  taste. 

No.  1190.  A  Flan  of  Puff  Paaie. 

Make  half  a  pound  of  puff  paste,  roll  twelve  times  tiU 
nearly  worn  out,  letting  it  remain  some  time  on  the  slab 
before  using ;  then  have  a  plain  round  or  oval  flan  mould,* 
butter  the  interior  and  line  it  with  the  paste  about  one 
third  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  place  a  sheet  of  white  paper 
at  the  bottom  and  a  band  round  the  sides  in  the  interior, 
which  fill  with  bread-crumbs,  bake  in  a  warm  oven  rather 
crisp,  take  out,  empty  it  of  the  bread-crumbs,  and  paper 
'  and  turn  it  from  your  mould,  sift  sugar  all  over  and  glaze 
with  the  salamander,  serve  filled  with  any  of  the  fruits 
dressed  as  directed  for  vol-au-vents.  Should  you  have  any 
trimmings  of  paste  left  firom  a  previous  day  it  may  be  used 
instead  of  making  fresh. 

No.  1191.  Flan  de  Pommea  a  la  Portugaiae. 

Make  half  a  pound  of  flour  into  a  fine  paste  (pate  fine. 
No.  1136),  roll  it  into  a  sheet  about  eleven  inches  in  dia- 
meter, work  up  the  sides  with  your  hands  two  inches  in 
height,  which  crimp  and  ornament  neatly  with  pate  d'office 
(No.  1137),  or  some  of  the  same  paste  cut  into  small  leaves, 

*  Flan  moulds  are  generally  fluted,  and  about  an  indi  and  a  half  in  ueight. 


ENTREMETS.  503 

with  which  form  a  wreath  or  some  other  design,  by  wetting 
the  flan  round  and  sticking  them  upon  it ;  then  peel  two 
dozen  small  apples  (golden  pippins),  take  the  cores  from 
fifteen  of  them  with  a  long  round  cutter,  make  a  syrup 
with  half  a  pint  of  water,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  three 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  reduce  over  a  sharp  fire  till 
becoming  thickish,  put  in  the  whole  apples  which  stew  gently 
till  tender,  then  take  them  out,  cut  up  the  remainder, 
put  them  into  the  syrup  and  boil  to  a  thickish  marma- 
lade ;  lay  half  the  marmalade  at  the  bottom  of  the  flan, 
then  the  whole  apples,  and  fill  up  with  the  marmalade  not 
hiding  the  whole  apples,  put- a  band  of  buttered  paper 
round  and  bake  three  quarters  of  an  hour,  when  done  take 
off  the  buttered  paper  and  mask  all  over  with  apricot 
marmalade,  serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

No.  1192.  Flan  de  Foires. 

Make  a  crust  the  same  as  above,  peel  and  cut  in  halves 
about  two  dozen  very  nice  pears,  put  them  into  a  preserv- 
ing-pan  with  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  the  juice 
of  two  lemons,  and  the  rind  of  one,  free  fi-om  pith,  cut  into 
small  strips ;  stew  till  tender,  when  cold  place  them  in  your 
flan  with  the  syrup  over,  bake  three  quarters  of  an  hour  with 
a  band  of  paper  round,  finish  and  serve  as  in  the  last. 

Cherries,  greengages,  and  apricots  may  also  be  used  for 
the  above  purposes  by  following  the  same  methods,  dress- 
ing the  fruit  as  for  vol-au-vents. 

No.  1193.  FJanc  a  la  Creme  pralinee. 

Prepare  a  crust  as  before,  which  fill  with  some  frangipane 
(No.  1295),  in  which  you  have  put  six  ounces  of  sweet  and 
one  ounce  of  bitter  almonds,  blanched  and  chopped,  put  a 
band  of  paper  round,  bake  three  quarters  of  an  hour, 
then  take  off  the  paper,  wet  the  crust,  sift  sugar  all  over, 
and  glaze  with  the  salamander. 


504  SNTRKMKT8. 

No.  1194.  Pate  a  CAom. 

Put  half  a  pint  of  water  in  a  stewpan,  with  six  ounces  of 
butter,  two  ounces  of  sugar  (pounded),  with  half  a  stick  of 
vanille  and  a  pinch  of  salt ;  when  it  begins  to  boil  stir  in 
three  good  spoonfuls  of  flour,  keep  stirring  over  the  fire, 
keeping  it  cleared  from  the  bottom  of  the  stewpan,  tiV 
becoming  a  toughish  paste ;  take  it  off  the  fire,  and  stir  in 
six  or  seven  eggs  one  after  the  other,  and  work  them  well 
in ;  it  is  then  ready ;  butter  a  baking-sheet  and  lay  your 
paste  upon  it  iu  round  pieces  nearly  the  size  of  a  wahiut,* 
egg  over,  and  sprinkle  white  sugar  in  grains  upon  them, 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  when  done  and  cold  open  a 
lid  at  the  top,  fill  them  with  a  jam  or  marmalade  of  some 
description,  replace  the  lid,  and  serve  dressed  in  pyramid 
upon  a  napkin.  Half  the  quantity  of  this  and  following 
receipts  may  of  course  be  made. 

No.  1195.  Petita  CAouw  a  la  Creme, 

Prepare  your  paste  as  in  the  last,  place  it  in  round  balls 
upon  your  baking-sheet,  egg  over,  sprinkle  with  sugar  in 
grains,  and  bake  them  as  in  the  last,  then  put  two  yolks 
of  eggs  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  a 
little  chopped  lemon-peel,  and  a  few  candied  orange-flowers 
well  pounded ;  mix  well  together,  add  a  gill  of  boiling  milk, 
stir  over  the  fire  till  it  thickens,  place  in  a  basin  upon  the 
ice,  when  cold,  add  a  gill  of  whipped  cream,  mix  well,  fill 
your  petits  choux,  and  serve  as  in  the  last. 

No.  1196.  Petits  Qhcmw  attx  Anumdes. 
Proceed  as  above,  but  when  they  are  baked  cover  lightly 

*  Tbe  ozily  way  to  shape  them  properly  is  by  taking  a  pieoe  the  size  of  a 
walnut,  and  moulding  it  with  your  finger  at  the  rim  of  the  stewpan;  drop 
them  upon  a  baking-sheet,  and  make  them  still  more  round  with  the  paste-bru3h 
in  egging  them  over. 


£NTB]ft4I£TS.  505 

with  a  mixture  of  almonds  and  sugar,  as  directed  for 
patisserie  d'ar^andes  (No.  1183);  put  them  again  in  the 
oven  till  it  has  set  and  become  crisp ;  when  cold  fiU  and 
serve  a^^  before. 

No.  1197.  Petite  Chotuv  a  la  Comtesae. 

Prepare  the  paste  as  before,  but  lay  it  out  upon  your 
baking-sheet,  in  long  pieces  the  size  of  your  finger,  egg 
and  sugar  over,  bake  as  before,  and  when  cold  open  them 
beneath  and  fiU  with  the  cream  as  above. 

No.  1198.  Petita  Choux  en  Gimblettea, 

Make  the  paste  as  before,  lay  it  in  larger  round  balls 
upon  a  buttered  baking-sheet,  dip  the  handle  of  your  paste- 
brm^b  into  some  egg,  with  which  make  a  hole  a?  large  as  a 
shilling  in  the  centre  of  each,  thus  forming  them  into  rings, 
each  rather  larger  than  a  five-shilling  piece';  egg  over, 
and  sprinkle  with  sugar  in  grains  and  chopped  pistachios 
mixed  together ;  bake  them  as  before,  but  in  a  slow  oven ; 
they  do  t\oX  r^quir^  to  be  filled. 

No.  1199.  Petita  Paina  a  la  Cremiere. 

Put  half  a  pint  of  thin  cream  in  a  stewpan,  Mdth  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  butter,  two  ounces  of  sugar,  and  a  little 
salt ;  when  boiling  add  three  spoonfuls  of  flour ;  stir  weU 
over  the  fire,  clearing  it  from  the  bottom  till  becoming 
toughish,  then  add  six  eggs,  one  at  a  time,  which  work  in 
well ;  the  paste  requires  to  be  rather  firm ;  when  cold  put 
a  Kttle  flour  upon  your  pastry  slab,  upon  which  turn  the 
paste ;  roll  it  out  in  pieces  an  inch  and  a  half  in  length,  make 
an  incision  down  the  centre  vnth  your  knife,  and  lay  them 
upon  a  baking-sheet,  egg  over,  bake  them  in  a  warm  oven ; 
when  done  sift  sugar  over,  and  glaze  with  the  salamander ; 
serve  dreaised  in  pyxwuid,  and  very  hot. 


606  BNTKBMKTS. 

No.  1200.  Madeline  a»  vin  de  Ports. 

Piit  half  a  pound  of  flour  in  a  stewpan,  with  six  ounces 
of  sugar^  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter  melted^  and  a 
little  orange-flour  water ;  mix  the  whole  well  together  with 
five  eggs,  butter  a  cylinder  mould,  put  the  paste  into  it, 
and  bake  of  a  nice  gold  colour  in  a  moderate  oven ;  put  four 
glasses  of  port  wine  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  httle  sugar,  four 
cloves,  and  a  little  cinnamon ;  mix  a  teaspoonful  of  arrowroot 
with  a  glass  of  port  wine  cold,  which  stir  in  with  the  other  in 
your  stewpan,  turn  the  madehne  out  upon  your  dish,  pour 
the  wine  over,  straining  it  through  a  sieve ;  when  cold  fill 
the  centre  with  half  a  pint  of  whipped  cream,  flavoured  with 
orange-flower-water,  and  serve. 

They  may  also  be  made  in  smaller  moulds,  dressed  in 
pyramid,  with  the  sauce  over. 

No.  1201.  Genoisea. 

Well  pound  two  ounces  of  sweet  almonds  with  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  sugar,  and  pass  them  through  a  wire  sieve ; 
put  them  into  a  basin,  with  six  ounces  of  flour  and  six 
eggs ;  beat  well  together,  add  a  Uttle  salt,  half  a  gill  of 
whipped  cream,  and  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  an  egg 
(melted  but  not  hot) ;  butter  a  saute-pan,  pour  the  mixture 
into  it,  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  half  an  homr,  or  till 
rather  crisp,  turn  it  out  upon  your  board,  and  when  cold 
cut  it  into  a  variety  of  shapes  with  your  knife  or  different 
shaped  cutters  (but  do  not  make  them  too  large,  or  they 
would  not  look  well),  which  decorate  veith  a  white  or  pink 
iceing  (No.  1888)  or  meringue  with  a  paper  comet,  and 
different  sorts  of  preserves. 

No.  1202.  Genoieea faureea. 
Prepare  a  mixture  a^  above,  but  only  put  half  of  it  in 


ENTREMETS. 

the  saute-pan ;  when  half  done  spread  a  little  apricot  n 
malade  over,  and  pour  over  the  remainder  of  the  mixture ; 
when  done  turn  out  upon  a  board,  cut  and  ornament  it 
as  directed  above.     This  style  of  genoise  is  new,  and  when 
well  made  very  excellent. 

No.  1203.  Genoiaea  a  V  Orange. 

Proceed  as  before,  but  rub  the  sugar  with  the  rind  of  an 
orange  previous  to  pounding  it,  and  add  a  small  glass  of 
brandy ;  bake,  cut,  and  ornament  it  as  before. 

No.  1204.  Genoises  auw  Pistaches. 

Make  a  genoise  as  before,  bake  it,  and  when  cold  cut  it 
into  round  pieces  the  size  of  a  penny-piece ;  cut  also  as  many 
rings  the  size  of  a  shilling,  mask  the  tops  of  the  round  pieces 
with  white  iceings  (No.  1881)  and  place  a  ring  in  the  centre 
of  each,  which  also  mask ;  have  two  ounces  of  pistachios 
blanched  and  split  in  halves,  which  lay  upon  them,  their 
points  to  the  rings,  thus  forming  rosettes ;  fill  the  rings  with 
marmalade  when  ready  to  serve. 

No.  1205.  JDarioles. 

Line  (very  thinly)  a  dozen  small  dariole  moulds  with  paste 
(pate  a  foncer.  No.  1186),  then  put  one  ounce  of  flour  in 
a  basin  with  an  egg,  beat  it  quite  smooth,  then  add  six 
yolks  of  e^s  and  four  ounces  of  sugar  (pounded)  with  a 
quarter  of  an  ounce  of  candied  orange-flowers,  six  large 
macaroons  crushed,  one  whole  egg.  and  half  a  pint  of  good 
cream ;  mix  all  well  together,  put  a  small  piece  of  butter  in 
each  of  the  moulds,  fill  them  with  the  above  preparation, 
and  bake  in  a  quick  oven,  when  done  take  them  out  of  the 
mould,  sift  sugar  over,  and  serve  very  hot ;  they  will  be  as 
light  as  souflies  and  eat  as  delicate. 


508  RNTREMETS. 

No.  1206.  BiscateUes. 

Pat  one  pound  of  sugar  into  a  basin  with  five  ^;g8,  work 
it  well,  and  add  by  degrees  four  more  eggs,  then  stir  in  the 
yolks  of  five  other  eggs  with  a  pound  of  flour,  add  three 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter  just  melted,  and  the  whites 
of  five  eggs,  beat  very  stiff,  bake  it  in  a  saute-pan,  and 
when  cold  cut  it  into  a  variety  of  shapes,  which  ornament 
with  meringue,  iceing  and  preserves  as  your  fancy  may 
direct  \  half  the  above  quantity  would  be  siiffici^it  for  a  dish. 

No.  1207;  Gateaux  a  VIndienne, 

Make  a  sponge*cake  mixture  (No.  1369)  of  six  ^gs, 
which  bake  in  twelve  small  dariole  moulds,  when  cold  cut 
them  in  slices,  spread  a  Httle  currant  jelly  upon  each,  with 
a  little  maresquino,  and  build  them  of  their  original  shape ; 
have  ready  a  meringue  mixture  (No.  1218)  of  five  eggs,  with 
which  mask  them,  finish  the  top  in  a  point,  sprinkle  over 
with  rough  sugar  and  dry  in  a  very  slow  oven,  keeping 
them  quite  white ;  when  cold,  dress  in  pyramid  as  elevated 
as  possible. 

No,  1208.  Gauffres  aux  Pistaches, 

Weigh  the  weight  of  six  eggs  of  sugar  and  three  of  flour, 
which  put  into  a  basin  with  half  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds 
chopped  very  fine,  mix  them  with  six  whole  e^  and  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  orange-flower  water ;  rub  two  or  three  baking- 
sheets  very  lightly  with  very  white  wax.  upon  which  drop 
the  mixture  with  a  spoon  into  cakes  the  size  of  a  penny 
piece;  let  it  spread,  then  lay  some  pistachios  blanched 
and  filleted  upon  them,  place  in  a  warmish  oven,  and  be 
very  particular  in  baking,  for  if  done  too  much  you  will 
not  be  able  to  do  anything  with  them,  and  if  not  done 
enough  they  will  not  be  crisp  eating ;  directly  they  are  done 


ENTREMETS.  509 

take  them  firom  the  oven,  and  with  a  thin  knife  take  them 
off  the  baking-sheet,  cmrl  them  over  the  handle  of  a  wooden 
spoon  as  quickly  as  possible,  and  place  in  a  screen  for  a 
short  time  to  dry ;  in  case  your  gaui&es  run  out  of  shape 
eut  them  out  with  an  oval  cutter  or  with  the  point  c^  a 
knife  before  putting  them  upon  the  spoon. 

No.  1209.  Gauffres  a  FJllemande 

Are  made  the  same  as  the  above,  but  omitting  the  al- 
monds and  jnstachios,  serve  them  filled  with  whipped  cream, 
to  which  you  have  added  a  Httle  powdered  sugar  and  orange- 
flower  water,  if  in  season  a  fine  strawbeny  may  be  placed 
at  each  end,  dress  them  in  pyramid  upon  a  napkin. 

No.  1210.  Gauffres  a  la  VamUe 

Are  made  the  same  as  the  gauffiies  aux  pistaches,  but 
adding  half  a  stick  of  vanilla  well  pounded  and  sifted  with 
the  sugar,  and  half  a  glass  of  brandy  instead  of  the  orange- 
flower-water.  A  variety  of  beautifo]  entremets  may  be  made 
with  gauffires,  according  to  taste. 

No.  1211.  Gauffres  a  la  Flamande. 

Put  half  a  pound  of  flour  in  a  basin,  with  which  mix  six 
eggs  by  degrees,  working  it  at  first  upon  one  side  of  the  basin, 
until  you  have  mixed  the  whole  into  a  smoolii  paste,  then 
dissolve  a  piece  of  dried  German  yeast,  half  the  size  of  a 
waknit,  in  a  vnn^lassfiil  of  warm  water ;  when  dissolved 
pour  it  into  the  basin  with  a  gill  of  warm  milk  and  a  Uttle 
salt,  mix  all  well  together,  stir  in  six  ounces  of  butter,  pre- 
viously melted,  also  two  spoonfuls  of  orange-flower-water, 
set  in  a  warm  place  for  nearly  two  hours,  when  the  mix- 
ture would  have  risen  about  two  ch*  three  inches  turn  it 
round  five  or  six  times  with  a  wooden  spoon  to  bring  it 
down ;  let  remain  half  an  hour  longer  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 


510  ENTREMETS. 

Put  the  gauffire  irons  upon  a  slow  fire,  taming  them  oc- 
casionally, to  get  hot  by  degrees,  .wipe  them  well  with  a  cloth, 
and  rub  lightly  over  the  interior  with  fat  bacon,  then  put 
m  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  the  paste,  close  the  irons, 
put  them  over  the  fire  (turning  occasionally)  for  a  few  mi- 
nutes ;  open  the  irons  half  way  to  see  if  coloured  suffi- 
cently  (they  should  be  of  a  light  gold  colour)  and  very 
crisp,  if  done  turn  it  out,  proceeding  in  like  manner  with 
the  remainder ;  when  finished  have  half  a  pound  of  lump 
sugar,  well  pounded,  with  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  powdered 
cinnamon  and  passed  through  a  fine  sieve,  dip  the  gauffires 
into  it  on  both  sides  and  serve  very  hot  dressed  in  pyramid 
upon  a  napkin. 

No.  1212.  Gauffres  a  la  Caaalem/. 

Put  half  a  pound  of  fi*esh  butter  into  a  middling-sized 
basin  (having  previously  pressed  it  in  a  cloth  to  extract  the 
buttermilk),  work  it  round  with  your  hand  until  forming  a 
whitish  cream,  then  add  half  a  pound  of  sifted  flour  and  a 
piece  of  yeast  of  the  size  of  a  walnut ;  work  well  together, 
set  it  in  a  warm  closet  half  an  hour,  or  until  vrell  risen,  take 
it  out,  add  half  a  pint  of  whipped  cream  (taking  care  that 
the  mixture  is  not  too  hot,  or  it  would  turn  sour)  and  a 
little  salt,  put  the  gaufire  irons  upon  the  fire,  and  proceed 
as  in  the  last ;  when  done  roll  them  in  powdered  cinnamon 
and  sugar  mixed  together,  and  send  very  hot  to  table ;  either 
of  the  two  last  may  be  served  either  as  an  entremet  or  a 
remove. 

No.  1213.  Bed  Nougat 

Blanch  and  skin  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  almonds, 
which  cut  into  small  fillets,  and  place  them  in  the  oven  until 
lightly  browned ;  put  six  ounces  of  powdered  sugar  in  a 
copper  pan  with  a  little  essence  of  cochineal,  stir  round 


ENTREMETS.  511 

over  the  fire  till  melted,  and  when  it  commences  boiling 
stir  in  the  almonds  and  turn  it  out  upon  a  buttered  baking- 
sheet,  spread  out  thin,  and  before  getting  too  crisp  cut  it 
into  pieces  (with  a  knife)  two  inches  in  length  and  three 
quarters  of  an  inch  in  breadth ;  dress  them  in  crown  upon 
your  dish  and  fill  the  interior  with  a  pint  of  whipped  cream, 
in  which  you  have  put  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar  and  one 
of  orange-flower-water;  strawberries  may  be  added  if  in 
season.  Nougat  aux  pistaches  is  made  by  omitting  the 
cochineal,  and  when  spread  out  upon  the  baking-sheet 
sprinkling  chopped  pistachios  over  whilst  very  hot,  and 
proceeding  as  in  the  last. 

No.  1214.  Small  Cups  of  Nougat 

Prepare  the  nougat  as  before,  then  have  a  number  of 
dariole  or  tartelette  moulds,  oil  the  interior  slightly,  and  when 
the  mixture  is  half  cold  put  a  piece  the  size  of  a  walnut  in 
each,  which  press  to  the  shape  of  the  mould,  with  your  finger 
and  thumb ;  when  cold  take  them  out  and  serve  filled  with 
cream  as  before.  Vases  and  large  oups  may  also  be  made 
with  it,  by  having  moulds  and  proceeding  as  for  the  smaller 
ones ;  but  for  the  larger  moulds  or  shapes,  which  require 
more  time  to  fill,  to  prevent  the  mixture  getting  cold,  keep 
the  pan  upon  a  trivet  at  the  mouth  of  the  oven,  taking  it 
by  pieces  as  you  require. 

No.  1215.  Nougat  d'Abricot. 

Make  half  a  pound  of  puff  paste  (No.  1132),  roll  twelve 
times,  leaving  it  about  the  thickness  of  half-a-crown  piece, 
place  it  upon  a  baking-sheet,  and  spread  apricot  marma- 
lade over  a  qxiarter  an  inch  in  thickness,  then  have  ready, 
finely  chopped  and  well  dried,  three  quarters  of  a  pound 
of  blanched  sweet  almonds,  which  put  into  a  basin  with 
three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  and  mix  with 


512  ENTIUSMET8. 

the  whites  of  four  eggs,  spread  it  all  over  the  marmalade 
and  bake  in  a  hot  oven  a  nice  colour ;  when  cold  cut  it 
into  pieces  of  any  shape  you  please,  and  dress  in  crown 
upon  a  napkin  to  serve.  Brioche  paste  (No.  1821)  would 
be  better  than  puff  paste  for  the  above,  but  they  are  veij 
excellent  either  way. 

No.  1216.  Chdtaignes  Croquanies. 

Roast  sixty  chesnuts,  take  them  from  the  husks,  and 
when  cold  pound  them  well,  adding  a  Uttle  wl»te  of  egg  to 
prevent  their  oiling ;  then  add  half  a  pound  of  flour,  half  a 
pound  of  sugar,  half  a  pound  of  butter,  and  the  yolks  of 
two  or  three  eggs,  mix  all  well  together ;  lay  the  paste  upon 
a  marble  slab,  roll  it  out  into  small  pieces  two  inches  long, 
jdace  them  on  a  baking-sheet,  mark  with  a  knife  upon  the 
top,  and  bake  in  a  sharp  oven,  when  done  dip  them  into 
sugar  bofled  to  au  casse  (No.  137&),  when  cold  they  are  ready 
to  serve. 

No.  1217.  Amandes  Croquante^. 

Blanch  one  pound  of  sweet  almonds,  which  put  in  a  slow 
oven  to  dry,  when  cold  put  them  into  a  mortar  with  one 
pound  of  lump  sugar,  pound  very  fine  and  pass  them 
throi^h  a  wire  sieve  upon-  a  marble  slab,  rub  in  three 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter,  a  Kttle  chopped  rind  of 
lemon,  and  the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  form  the  paste  thus 
made,  into  small  pieces  of  any  shape  you  please,  which  bake 
and  dip  in  sugar  as  in  the  last. 

No»  1218.  Meringues  a  la  CuiUiere. 

Pound  and  sift  one  pound  of  lump  sugar,  whisk  the 
whites  of  ten  eggs  very  stiff,  throw  the  sugar  lightly  over, 
and  with  a  wooden  spoon  stir  gently,  perfectly  mixing  the 
sugar,  then  with  a  table  or  dessert-spoon  lay  tiiem  out 


ENTKBMETS.  613 

upon  white  paper  in  the  shape  of  eggs,  sift  powdered 
sugar  thickly  over,  let  them  remain  ten  minutes,  then 
shake  off  the  superfluous  sugar,  place  upon  boards  which 
you  have  wetted,  and  put  them  into  a  slow  oven,  just 
hot  enough  to  cause  them  to  be  light  and  sUghtly  tinge ; 
when  the  outside  becomes  quite  crisp,  take  off  the  papers, 
by  tiuning  them  topsy-turvy  and  lifting  the  papers  from 
them,  dip  your  spoon  into  hot  water,  and  with  it  clear 
out  the  best  part  of  the  interior^,  dust  them  with  powdered 
sugar,  lay  them  upon  a  baking-sheet,  and  put  into  the 
screen  to  dry ;  they  may  be  made  a  day  or  two  before  they 
are  required,  if  put  away  in  a  dry  place ;  to  serve,  fill  them 
with  whipped  cream  flavoured  either  with  vanilla  or  orange- 
flower  (but  do  not  make  it  too  sweet),  stick  two  together, 
dress  in  pyramid  upon  a  napkin  and  serve.  Should  they 
happen  to  stick  to  the  papers,  moisten  the  papers  with  a 
paste-brush  and  water. 

No.  1219.  Turban  de  Meringues. 

Make  a  meringue  mixture  as  above  of  five  eggs  and  half 
a  pound  of  sugar,  which  lay-out  on  white  paper,  but  with 
a  teaspoon,  of  the  size  and  shape  of  pheasants'  eggs ;  sift 
sugar  over,  which  shake  off  directly,  place  them  upon 
boards  and  bake  in  a  slacker  oven  than  directed  for 
the  last,  keeping  them  quite  white,  and  drying  them  quite 
through ;  when  cold  wet  the  paper  underneath,  take  off  the 
meringues,  dry  them  a  little  more,  have  ready,  and  baked 
a  round  board  of  pate  d'oflSice  (No.  1187),  seven  inches  in 
diameter,  have  also  ready  a  little  white  iceing  (No.  1S83) 
mixed  rather  stiff,  form  a  ring  of  it  round  the  rim  of  the 
board,  upon  which  dress  the  meringues,  placing  a  piece  of 
the  iceing  the  size  of  a  pea  at  the  bottom  of  each  to  fix  them 
one  to  the  other,  place  it  to  dry,  have  a  Uttle  iceing  thinner 
than  the  last,  dip  one  end  of  the  remaining  meringues  into 

33 


514  ENTKSMETS. 

it,  and  then  into  chopped  pistachios  (very  green),  with  them 
form  another  row  upon  the  first,  keeping  the  green  end 
uppermost,  diy  it  till  set,  and  when  ready  to  serve  fill  the 
interior  with  a  whipped  cream  as  in  the  last,  and  sprinkle 
chopped  pistachios  over,  or  fill  them  with  any  of  the  oiemes 
bavaroises ;  the  meringues  may  likewise  be  laid  out  with  a 
paper  comet. 

No.  1220.  Turban  de  Meringues  glace. 

Make  a  turban  as  directed  in  the  last,  then  soak  two 
ounces  of  citron  (candied),  two  ounces  of  currants,  and  two 
ounces  of  Smyrna  raisins,  in  one  glass  of  maresquino,  mix 
the  whole  in  a  freezing-pot  with  a  pint  and  a  half  of  vanilla 
ice  (No.  1381),  fill  the  turban,  at  the  moment  of  serving, 
with  it. 

No.  1221.  PetiU  Meringues  aux  Pistaches. 

Make  a  meringue  mixture  of  five  whites  of  eggs  and  half 
a  pound  of  sugar  as  before,  lay  out  upon  papers  with  a 
teaspoon;  have  ready  two  ounces  of  chopped  pistachios, 
which  sprinkle  over,  then  sift  a  little  sugar  over,  which 
shake  ofi*  immediately,  place  them  upon  boards,  bake  and 
empty  as  directed  for  meringues  a  la  cuilleree  (No.  1218), 
fill  them  with  whipped  cream  in  which  you  have  intro- 
duced a  few  chopped  pistachios,  stick  two  together  and 
serve ;  these  are  intended  more  for  garniture  than  to  be 
served  as  a  dish  by  themselves. 

No.  1222.  Champignons  en  surprise. 

Make  a  meringue  mixture  of  ten  e^  as  before,  put  one 
half  of  the  mixture  into  a  paper  horn,  (or  comet,)  cut  a 
piece  of  the  bottom  with  a  knife  to  leave  a  hole  as  large  as 
the  tip  of  your  little  finger,  press  the  mixture  through  it 
upon  sheets  of  white  paper,  into  pieces  as  large  round  as 


SNTREHBTS.  515 

a  five-shilling  piece,  sprinkle  them  over  with  grated  choco* 
late  and  powdered  sugar  mixed,  put  the  remainder  of  the 
mixture  into  another  paper  horn,  cut  a  hole  at  the  bottom 
smaller  than  in  the  last,  and  press  the  mixtiure  through  it 
upon  paper,  into  pieces  an  inch  and  a  half  in  length,  and 
thicker  at  one  end  than  the  other,  commencing  at  the  small 
end  to  form  the  stalk  of  a  mushroom,  sift  a  Uttle  sugar 
over,  place  them  upon  a  board,  with  those  you  first  laid 
out,  put  in  a  slow  oven,  when  the  smaller  ones  are  per- 
fectly dried  take  them  off  the  papers,  stick  two  together, 
dip  the  thick  end  in  white  of  egg  and  then  into  grated 
chocolate,  take  out  the  larger  ones,  remove  them  from  the 
paper  by  wetting  it  at  the  back,  then  stick  the  smaller  ones 
into  them,  thus  forming  mushrooms,  dry  in  the  screen  and 
use  them  for  garniture  where  directed. 

No.  1223.  Biscuit  manqtie  aux  AmandeB, 

Put  half  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar  into  a  basia,  with 
the  yolks  of  six  eggs,  beat  them  weU  together  with  a 
wooden  spoon,  melt  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  which  add 
to  the  mixture,  with  six  ounces  of  flour  and  the  whites  of 
the  six  eggs  beat  very  stiff,  stir  it  till  well  mixed,  but  not 
more  than  is  required,  butter  a  saute-pan  lightly,  put  some 
finely  powdered  sugar  into  it,  shake  all  over  the  pan  and 
turn  out  that  which  does  not  adhere  to  the  butter,  pour  in 
the  mixture,  have  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds 
cut  into  thin  fillets,  lay  them  upon  the  top  and  sift  sugar 
over,  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  of  a  hght  brown  colour ; 
when  done  take  it  out  of  the  saute-pan,  aad  when  cold  cut 
it  in  pieces  of  a  diamond  shape  three  inches  in  length  and 
two  in  breadth  and  serve  dressed  in  pyramid. 

No.  1224.  Biscuit  manque  au  Rhum. 
Put  half  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar  in  a  basin,  with 


516  BNTREMBTS. 

three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  flour,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
butter,  (melted,)  two  glasses  of  old  Jamaica  rum,  a  quarts 
of  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds  well  pounded,  (with  the  sugar,) 
and  a  little  salt ;  mix  the  whole  together,  with  the  yolks  of 
six  and  two  whole  eggs,  then  add  the  whites  of  the  six 
eggs  whipped  very  stiff,  stirring  them  in  very  lightly,  have 
ready  a  large  square  paper  box,  butter  the  interior  well  and 
pour  in  the  mixture;  bake  in  a  moderate  oven;  when 
nearly  done  egg  over  the  top  with  a  paste-brush  and  cover 
with  a  preparation  of  almonds  made  thus:  blanch  and 
skin  half  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds,  which  cut  into  thin 
fillets,  dry  them  in  a  hot  closet,  put  them  into  a  basin,  with 
three  ounces  of  sugar  and  mix  with  the  whites  of  two  eggs, 
place  the  manque  again  in  the  oven  until  done  and  the 
almonds  become  slightly  browned,  then  take  it  from  the 
oven  and  when  cold  cut  in  diamonds  or  any  other  shapes 
your  fancy  may  direct.  They  do  not  require  to  be  more 
than  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  rum  may  be  exchanged  for 
any  other  flavour  if  desired. 


No-  1225.  Calf%  Foot  Jelly,  flavoured  as  required. 

Jellies  may  be  considered  as  the  first,  most  wholesome, 
and  refreshing  dishes  of  the  second  course,  especially  when 
made  from  calves'  feet,  which  meritorious  discovery  belongs 
especially  to  the  English  kitchen,  where  I  believe  they  have 
been  used  for  years ;  the  inventor  certainly  deserves  a  place 
in  the  archives  of  cookery.  For  the  making  of  jellies 
in  France  nothing  but  isingla  s  is  used,  which  is  so 
adulterated  in  its  preparation  that  it  requires  a  person  to 
be  a  good  judge  to  select  it,  whilst  calves'  feet  may  be 
selected  by  any  one,  only  requiring  to  be  well  scalded  and 
fresh.     But  here  I  must  observe  that  the  discovery  has 


ENTREMETS.  517 

never  been  advantageously  developed  to  the  public  at  large, 
for  the  introduction  of  cloves,  mace,  cinnamon,  and  other 
spices,  give  it  a  very  common  flavour,  which  does  not  at  all 
harmonize  with  the  deUcacy  of  the  jelly ;  a  real  gourmet 
would  not  only  send  it  from  his  table,  but  discharge  the 
maker  with  the  impression  that  a  cook  without  taste  was  no 
cook  at  all ;  the  only  flavour  required  in  jelly  being  some 
Ught  Uqueur,  wine,  or  the  freshness  of  some  deUcious  fruits. 
Orange  jelly,  and  jelly  from  the  juice  of  any  other  fruits, 
may  likewise  be  made  with  the  calf's  foot  jelly,  by  omitting 
the  greater  part  of  juice  of  lemon  and  using  it  instead,  but 
here  isinglass  has  an  advantage,  it  will  keep  for  any  time 
and  may  be  used  in  the  country  where,  perhaps,  at  the 
time  required  calves'  feet  cannot  be  obtained. 

Take  four  calf's  feet,  cut  them  up  and  put  them  into  a 
stewpan,  with  six  quarts  of  water,  place  upon  the  fire ;  when 
boiling  remove  to  the  comer,  where  let  boil  slowly  five  hours, 
to  reduce  to  about  two  quarts,  keeping  well  skimmed,  pass 
through  a  hair  sieve  into  a  basin,  in  which  let  remain  in  a 
cold  place  till  set  quite  firm,  take  off  as  much  of  the  oil 
from  the  top  as  possible  with  a  spoon,  and  wash  off  the  re- 
mainder with  a  httle  hot  water  as  quickly  as  possible,  wipe 
dry  with  a  cloth,  and  put  it  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  pound 
of  lump  sugar  broken  in  small  pieces,  the  juice  of  ten 
lemons,  the  rind  of  four  (free  from  pith),  the  whites  of  eight 
eggs,  with  the  shells,  half  a  pint  of  water,  and  half  a  pint 
of  sherry,  place  the  stewpan  over  the  fire  and  keep  whisk- 
ing its  contents  until  boiling,  then  pass  it  through  your 
jelly  bag,  pouring  that  which  first  runs  through  back  again, 
until  it  runs  quite  clear ;  it  is  then  ready  for  use  as  directed 
in  the  following  receipts. 

To  be  quite  certain  of  the  strength  of  your  jelly  take  a 
little  from  the  stewpan  previous  to  its  boiling,  which  put 
into  the  bottom  of  a  small  mould  and  place  upon  the  ice, 


518  ENTBBMET8. 

if  too  strong  add  a  little  more  water,  but  if  by  mistake  too 
weak  reduce  it  in  clarifying. 

I  have  invented  some  few  new  jelly  moulds,  the  designs 
of  which  are  shown  in  the  accompanying  plates,  also  some 
new  fruit  atelettes  (which  will  be  found  at  the  end  of  this 
work),  one  of  which,  placed  at  the  top  of  a  jelly  when 
turned  out,  is  a  very  handsome  addition. 

No.  1226.   Gelee  de  Dantzic  aux  Fraiaes. 

Take  a  quart  of  jelly  clarified  as  above,  with  which  mix 
four  glasses  of  eau  de  vie  de  Dantzic,  reserving  the  gold 
leaves  by  letting  them  set  at  the  bottom  of  the  glass,  mix 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  the  jelly  with  it,  have  a  cylinder 
mould  and  place  it  in  ice,  put  the  jelly  with  the  leaves 
first  in,  so  that  the  gold  will  show  at  the  top  of  the  jelly 
when  turned  out,  place  a  fine  strawberry  in  each  knob  of 
the  mould,  then  add  a  little  more  jelly,  when  nearly  set  add 
more  strawberries,  sticking  them  to  the  sides  of  the  mould 
and  arranging  them  as  tastefully  as  possible,  fiU  up  by 
degrees  or  you  would  have  all  the  strawberries  swimming 
at  the  top ;  when  finished  and  quite  set  it  is  ready  to  turn 
out,  which  is  done  by  dipping  the  mould  in  warm  water ; 
wipe  quickly  with  a  cloth,  shake  the  mould  gently,  turn 
over  carefully  upon  your  dish,  and  draw  the  mould  off  quite 
straight.  Two  glasses  of  pale  brandy  may  advantageously 
be  added  to  the  jelly. 

No.  1227.  Gelee  de  Maresquin  aux  Peches. 

Take  a  quart  of  jelly  clarified  as  before,  to  which  add 
four  glasses  of  the  best  Italian  maresquino,  have  four  nice 
ripe  peaches,  but  perfectly  sound,  which  cut  into  quarters, 
bury  a  cylinder  mould  in  ice,  place  a  little  jelly  at  the 
bottom,  then  arrange  some  of  the  pieces  of  peaches,  which 
cover  with  jelly ;  when  nearly  set  arrange  the  remainder. 


ENTREMETS.  519 

and  fill  up  the  mould,  proceeding  as  in  the  last.    The  fruit 
wiU  impart  its  own  peculiar  flavour  to  the  jeUy. 

No.  1228.   Gelee  de  Noyeau  aux  Ahricots, 

Flavour  a  quart  of  jelly  clarified  as  before  with  four 
glasses  of  the  best  noyeau,  (here  I  must  remark  that  if  the 
liquors  used  are  not  of  the  best  quality  it  would  render  the 
jelly  cloudy  and  very  unsightly,)  have  six  nice  ripe  deep- 
coloured  apricots,  which  cut  in  quarters  and  arrange  taste- 
fully in  your  mould,  proceeding  as  in  the  two  preceding 
articles.  Observe  in  arranging  the  fruit  in  your  mould 
that  each  piece  is  separate,  so  as  to  leave  some  parts  of  the 
jelly  transparent,  otherwise  it  would  appear  very  heavy  and 
ungraceful. 

No.  1229.  Gelee  Macedoine  aux  Fruits  de  belle  saison. 

Prepare  a  quart  of  jelly  as  directed  (No.  1225)  putting 
the  gold  leaves  in  the  mould,  which  you  have  previously 
surrounded  with  ice,  have  ready  twelve  very  fresh  straw- 
berries, twelve  black  grapes,  twelve  very  white  cherries,  and 
one  peach  or  apricot  cut  in  six,  put  six  strawberries  at  the 
bottom,  with  a  piece  of  peach  between  each,  cover  with  jelly, 
when  set  place  in  another  row  of  fruit,  proceeding  thus  until 
full,  but  not  putting  the  fruit  too  close  together  and  varie- 
gating it  as  much  as  possible,  or  if  in  winter  and  the  above 
fruit  cannot  be  obtained  prepare  three  small  apples,  (golden 
pippins,)  which  cut  into  quarters  and  put  into  a  stewpan, 
with  the  juice  of  a  lemon  and  one  ounce  of  powdered  sugar, 
set  them  over  a  slow  fire  to  stew  till  tender,  then  put  them 
out  on  a  plate  to  cool,  peel  and  take  all  the  pith  from  two 
small  oranges,  which  cut  in  quarters,  have  also  a  few 
brandied  cherries  and  some  fine  black  and  green  grapes ; 
arrange  the  whole  tastefully  in  your  mould,  filling  with 
jelly  as  before  directed. 


520  KNTRBMST8. 


No.  1280.  Bordnre  de  Poire%  en^dee. 

Cut  twelve  middling-sized  ripe  pears  in  halves,  take  out 
the  cores  peel  neatly,  and  throw  them  into  a  preserving- 
pan,  with  the  juice  of  two  lemons  and  half  a  pound  of 
lump  sugar,  let  stew  rather  quickly  till  tender,  but  not 
to  break,  put  them  upon  a  dish  till  cold,  have  a  cylinder 
mould  (but  not  too  deep)  upon  the  ice,  have  a  quart  of 
jelly  flavoured  with  four  glasses  of  any  Uquor,  put  a  little 
at  the  bottom  of  the  mould  half  an  inch  in  depth  when  set, 
dress  your  pears  round  in  a  border,  (but  the  reverse  way, 
so  that  they  become  right  when  the  mould  is  turned  over,) 
fiU  the  mould  up  with  the  jelly  when  quite  cold  and  upon 
the  point  of  setting,  and  when  wanted  turn  it  out  as  before, 
and  fill  up  the  centre  with  red  whipped  jelly.  Apricots  or 
peaches  cut  in  halves  may  be  dressed  the  same,  or  apples. 

No.  1231.  Gelee  au  Bhum. 

Have  a  quart  of  jelly  clarified  as  before,  to  which  add 
four  wineglasses  of  old  Jamaica  rum,  colour  a  Uttle  with  some 
essence  of  cochineal,  pour  it  into  your  mould  without  any 
fruit.  This  is  better  appreciated  by  a  party  of  gentlemen, 
and  should  not  be  introduced  where  there  are  ladies ;  by 
keeping  the  jelly  a  little  stiBfer  you  may  introduce  more 
rum. 

No.  1232.  Gelee  Mouaseuse  a  VEau  de  Vie. 

Put  a  pint  and  a  half  of  jelly  in  a  stewpan  upon  the  ice, 
add  fom*  glasses  of  cognac  brandy,  whip  it  until  very  light 
and  upon  the  point  of  setting,  when  pour  in  your  mould, 
it  will  be  quite  white ;  when  ready  to  serve  turn  it  out  as 
before  directed.  If  wanted  clear,  proceed  as  for  gelee  au 
rhum. 


KNTKJfiMETS.  521 

No.  1233.  Gelee  demie  chaude/roide  marbr^e. 

Flavour  a  quart  of  jelly  with  three  glasses  of  maresquino, 
have  ready  also  a  pint  of  the  preparation  (creme  au  mares- 
quin,  No.  1251),  nearly  set  in  a  basin,  dip  in  three  apricots 
cut  in  quarters,  which  put  in  a  plate  upon  the  ice  till  set, 
have  also  some  quarters  of  peaches,  which  also  dip  into 
the  cream,  when  set  commence  filling  your  mould  with 
the  jelly,  placing  a  few  fine  strawberries  at  the  bottom,  then 
some  of  the  fiiiit  enveloped,  filling  with  the  jelly  as  before 
directed,  and  variegating  it  as  much  as  possible  with  black 
grapes,  strawberries,  and  the  enveloped  fruit.  This  is  quite 
a  new  idea,  it  not  only  looks  well  but  likewise  cuts  and 
eats  beautiful. 

No.  1234.  Gelee  fouettee  aux  Fruits. 

Put  a  pint  and  a  half  of  jelly  upon  the  ice  in  a  stewpan, 
to  which  add  three  glasses  of  maresquino,  whip  the  jelly 
to  a  white  froth,  and  when  upon  the  point  of  setting  stir 
in  very  carefully  about  thirty  strawberries,  not  too  ripe, 
with  a  few  cherries,  apricots  in  quarters,  or  peaches ;  fill 
your  mould  and  when  set  turn  out  as  usual.  A  jelly  for 
whipping  requires  to  be  rather  stilfer  than  when  clear,  if 
not  stiff  enough  add  a  Uttle  clarified  isinglass. 

No.  1235.  GeUe  a  V Ananas. 

Procure  a  middling-sized  pineapple,  peel  it  carefully,  cut 
in  halves  lengthwise,  then  into  shces,  (rather  thin,)  have 
a  quart  of  jelly  in  which  you  have  infused  the  rind  of  the 
pineapple,  previously  well  washed,  place  a  little  at  the 
bottom  of  the  mould,  and  when  nearly  set  lay  a  border  of 
the  pineapple  over  one  upon  another,  forming  a  ring,  cover 
with  more  jelly,  let  it  nearly  set,  then  add  another  border 
of  the  pineapples,  proceeding  thus  until  the  mould  is  filled. 


i 


622  BNTBBXBT8. 

* 

No.  1236.  Orange  Jetty. 

Have  ten  fine  Malta  oranges  and  three  or  four  lemons, 
peel  off  the  rind  of  eight  veiy  finely,  which  put  into  a  basin, 
clarify  a  pound  of  sugar  (No.  1379),  pass  through  a  napkin 
into  the  basin  (over  the  rind)  whilst,  hot,  and  cover  with  a 
sheet  of  foolscap  paper,  twisting  it  tightly  over  the  edge, 
and  pricking  a  small  hole  in  the  centre  with  a  pin  to  give  a 
little  vent ;  cut  the  oranges  and  lemons  in  halves,  squeeze 
out  all  the  juice  through  a  hair  sieve  into  another  basin, 
and  proceed  to  clarify  it  as  follows :  wash  well  two  sheets 
of  white  blotting-paper  in  a  basin  of  water,  let  well  drain 
upon  a  sieve,  bruise  it  in  a  mortar  until  forming  quite 
a  puree,  take  fi*om  the  mortar  and  put  it  into  the  basin 
with  the  juice,  which  mix  well  with  it ;  let  remain  a  quarter 
of  an  hour  to  settle,  then  pour  it  into  your  jelly  bag,  pour- 
ing what  runs  through  back  again  into  the  bag  until  be- 
coming as  clear  as  spring  water,  strain  the  syrup  again 
through  a  napkin,  add  the  clarified  juice,  two  ounces  of 
clarified  isinglass  (No.  1372),  and  a  few  drops  of  liquid 
cochineal,  to  give  an  orange  tint ;  mix  all  well  together,  and 
pour  into  a  mould  surrounded  vn.th  ice,  when  set  and  ready 
to  serve,  turn  out  as  before  directed. 

Lemon  Jelly  is  made  precisely  as  directed  for  the  orange 
jelly,  using  all  lemon-juice  instead  of  orange,  rather  more 
syrup,  and  omitting  the  cochineal.  Some  persons  mix  a 
handful  of  white  sand  well  washed  with  the  juice  which 
will  assist  the  clarification,  but  the  idea  would  be  objection- 
able to  many. 

No.  1237.   Orange  Jelly ^  in  the  akms  of  the  Oranges, 

Procure  twelve  of  the  best-formed  oranges,  and  with  a 
round  vegetable  cutter  cut  a  hole  of  the  size  of  a  shilling 


£NTilBllBTS.  523 

at  the  stalk  of  each,  then  with  the  handle  of  a  teaspoon 
empty  all  the  pulp  from  them  and  clear  away  as  much  of 
the  pith  as  possible,  throw  them  into  cold  water  to  harden 
and  retake  their  original  shapes,  make  a  jelly  with  the 
pulps  as  in  the  last,  drain  the  skins  of  the  oranges,  stand 
them  upon  ice  and  fill  with  the  jelly,  dress  in  pyramid 
when  set,  or  cut  them  in  quarters  for  garnishing.  Should 
you  make  a  hole  in  clearing  out  the  skins,  place  a  small 
piece  of  butter  over  previous  to  placing  them  upon  ice, 
which  take  off  at  the  time  of  serving. 

No.  1238.  Gelee  de  Fraisea. 

Pick  two  pounds  of  fresh  strawberries,  which  put  in  a 
basin,  with  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  (over  them)  and  a  quart 
of  clarified  boihng  syrup ;  cover  with  paper,  let  remain  twelve 
hours,  colour  a  Uttle  deeper  with  the  essence  of  cochineal, 
pour  into  your  jelly  bag,  and  when  it  has  all  nm  through 
add  two  ounces  of  clarified  isinglass  cold,  but  not  set ;  mix 
well  and  pour  it  into  your  mould. 

No.  1239.   GeUe  d^Jbricots. 

Take  the  stones  from  eighteen  ripe  fleshy  apricots,  cut 
into  thin  shoes  and  put  them  into  a  basin  with  the  juice 
of  three  lemons ;  have  ready  boiling  a  pint  and  a  half  of 
clarified  syrup,  pour  it  over  the  apricots,  cover  the  basin 
with  paper,  and  let  them  remain  until  quite  cold,  then 
drain  the  syrup  through  a  napkin,  add  an  ounce  and  a  half 
of  clarified  isinglass,  (half  cold,)  mix  well  in,  and  pour  into 
your  mould.  The  remainder  of  the  apricot  would  make  a 
very  good  marmalade. 

No.  1240.   Gelee  a  la  Bacchante. 

Have  two  pounds  of  very  fine  green  grapes,  which  pound 
in  a  mortar,  with  a  few  leaves  of  spinach  well  washed,  add 


524  1NTR1MET8. 

half  a  gill  of  water,  pass  the  juice  firom  them  through  a  jelly 
bag,  and  mix  it  with  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  clan- 
fied  sugar,  yielding  a  pint  and  a  half  of  syrup,  and  two 
ounces  of  clarified  isinglass,  both  nearly  cold,  add  a  pint  of 
champagne,  stir  well  in,  pour  the  jelly  in  your  mould  and 
leave  it  upon  ice  till  set ;  when  ready  turn  it  out  and 
serve. 

No.  1241.  GeUe  de  Fleurs  d' Orange  au  Vin  de  Champagne, 

Clarify  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  and  when 
boiling  add  two  ounces  of  candied  orange-flowers,  take 
off  the  fire,  cover  over  closely,  and  let  remain  till  cold, 
then  strain  it  through  a  napkin,  when  all  has  run  through 
add  two  ounces  of  clarified  isinglass,  (cold  but  not  set,) 
and  nearly  a  pint  of  champagne,  mix  altogether  and  pour  it 
into  your  mould. 

No.  1242.  Paih  de  Fruit  a  la  Busse.  ' 

Pick  a  pint  of  fine  red  currants,  half  the  quantity  of 
raspberries,  a  pound  and  a  half  of  cherries,  (stoned,)  and 
nearly  a  pottle  of  strawberries,  place  a  few  of  them  lightly 
at  the  bottom  of  the  mould,  then  have  ready  a  quart  of 
strawberry  jelly  (No»  1238),  in  which  dissolve  a  pound 
of  powdered  sugar ;  when  well  dissolved  pour  some  of  it 
in  the  mould  containing  the  fruit,  which  place  upon  the  ice, 
let  it  nearly  set,  then  put  more  fruit  with  more  jelly,  pro- 
ceeding in  like  manner  until  the  mould  is  frdl ;  when  set 
dip  it  into  warm  water  and  turn  carefuUy  into  your  dish. 


No.  1243.   Creme  a  la  VanUle, 

Put  the  yolks  of  five  eggs  in  a  stewpan,  with  six  ounces 
of  powdered  sugar,  beat  well  together  with  a  wooden 
spoon ;    in   another   stewpan    have    a  pint   of   milk,   in 


ENTREMETS.  525 

which  put  an  ounce  of  isinglass,  boil  ten  minutes,  stir- 
ring occasionally  to  keep  it  from  burning,  throw  in  two 
sticks  of  vanilla,  take  it  from  the  fire^  put  a  cover  upon 
the  stewpan  till  three  parts  cold,  then  take  out  the  vanilla, 
pour  the  milk  in  the  other  stewpan  upon  the  eggs  and 
sugar,  mix  well  together,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  be- 
coming a  Uttle  thick  and  adhering  to  the  back  of  the 
spoon,  but  do  not  let  it  boil,  pass  through  a  tammie  into  a 
a  roimd  bowl ;  when  cold  set  the  bowl  upon  ice,  add  four 
glasses  of  noyeau  or  maresquino,  keep  stirring  its  contents, 
and  when  upon  the  point  of  setting  add  three  parts  of  a 
pint  of  cream  well  whipped,  mix  well  together  and  pour- 
ing into  your  moidd,  keep  it  upon  ice  till  wanted,  and  when 
ready  to  serve  dip  into  warm  water,  wipe  with  a  cloth,  and 
turn  it  out  upon  your  dish. 

No.  1244.   Crhne  atiw  Pistachea. 

Blanch  and  skin  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  very  green 
pistachios,  which  pound  well  in  a  mortar,  with  six  ounces 
of  sugar  (upon  which  you  have  rubbed  the  rind  of  a 
lemon)  and  eight  bitter  aknonds,  have  three  quarters  of  a 
pint  of  milk  boiling  in  a  stewpan,  into  which  put  the  above 
ingredients,  with  three  quarters  of  an  ounce  of  isinglass 
previously  dissolved,  boil  a  few  minutes,  then  in  another 
stewpan  have  the  yolks  of  five  eggs,  pour  the  milk  upon 
them  and  stir  altogether  over  the  fire  till  it  thickens,  th^n 
pour  it  into  a  bowl  to  cool,  pound  well  in  a  mortar  two  or 
three  good  handfcds  of  spinach  well  washed,  then  place  it 
in  a  strong  cloth,  which  twist  as  tight  as  possible,  thus 
squeezing  all  the  juice  out  of  it,  which  put  into  a  small 
stewpan  over  the  fire,  the  moment  it  boils  it  will  curdle, 
pour  it  on  the  back  of  a  silk  sieve,  then  place  the  bowl 
with  the  other  ingredients  upon  the  ice,  finish  your  cream 
as  in  the  last,^but  at  the  moment  of  adding  your  whipped 


526  BNTREHET8. 

cream,  add  also  some  of  the  spinach  firom  the  back  of  the 
sieve  sufficient  to  give  it  a  beautiful  light  green  colour.* 

No.  1245.  Creme  a  V Ananas. 

Take  the  half  of  a  middling-sized  pineapple,  peel  it,  and 
throw  the  rind  into  a  stewpan  containing  a  pint  of  boiling 
milk  and  an  ounce  of  isinglass,  cut  the  pineapple  up  into 
small  strips  and  put  them  into  a  small  preserving-pan,  with 
half  a  poimd  of  sugar  and  a  win^lassful  of  sherry  or 
water,  place  on  the  fire  and  let  it  boil  to  a  thick  syrup,  in 
another  stewpan  have  the  yolks  of  five  eggs,  to  which  add 
the  milk  by  degrees,  stirring  all  the  while,  straining  it 
through  a  sieve,  place  over  the  fire,  keeping  it  stirred  till 
thickening,  then  piass  it  through  a  tammie  into  a  bowl,  add 
the  syrup  with  the  pineapples,  leave  it  to  cool,  then  place  it 
upon  ice,  and  finish  as  for  the  creme  a  la  vanille. 

No.  1246.  Creme  aax  Amandea, 

Blanch  and  skin  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds, 
which  dry  and  poimd  well  with  six  ounces  of  lump  sugar, 
put  it  into  a  stewpan,  with  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  mix 
well  together,  then  in  another  stewpan  have  a  pint  of  milk 
in  which  you  have  put  an  ounce  of  isinglass,  boil  until  re- 
duced to  three  quarters  of  a  pint,  pass  through  a  tammie, 
and  pour  over  the  other  ingredients,  which  stir  over  the  fire 
till  it  thickens,  when  pour  into  your  bowl,  let  remain  till 
cold,  stirring  occasionally  to  keep  it  smooth,  add  two  glasses 
of  noyeau,  and  finish  as  in  the  last. 

No.  1247.  Creme  d' Orafi^e. 

Rub  the  rind  of  two  oranges  upon  six  ounces  of  lump 
sugar,  which  pound  and  put  into  a  small  preserving-pan, 
with  the  juice  of  four  large  oranges,  let  the  sugar  dissolve, 
boil  over  the  fire  till  forming  a  thick  syrup,  boil  nearly 


ENTRBHET8.  627 

a  pint  of  milk  in  a  stewpan,  with  an  ounce  of  isinglass  ten 
minutes,  then  pour  it  into  another  stewpan  containing  the 
yolks  of  five  eggs,  which  place  upon  the  fire,  stirring  until 
it  thickens,  but  not  boiling,  pass  it  through  a  tammie,  add 
the  syrup  from  the  orange,  and  finish  as  for  the  creme  a  la 
vanille. 

No.  1248.  Creme  aux  Fraisea. 

Prepare  a  cream  as  directed  for  creme  a  la  vanille,  and 
when  ready  to  pour  in  your  mould  add  half  a  pound  of 
fresh  gathered  strawberries  well  picked,  placing  them  here 
and  there  whilst  putting  it  in  the  mould,  and  serve  when 
ready. 

No.  1249.  Crhne  ^ AbricoU. 

Take  a  dozen  ripe  apricots,  which  cut  in  sUces  and  put 
in  a  preserving-pan,  with  half  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar 
and  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  stew  them  over  a  slow  fire  till 
tender,  then  rub  them  through  a  tammie  with  two  wooden 
spoons,  put  rather  more  than  half  a  pint  of  milk  to  boil, 
with  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  isinglass,  reduce  to  half  a 
pint,  then  pour  it  into  another  stewpan  containing  the 
yolks  of  four  eggs,  stir  over  the  fire  till  it  thickens,  when 
pass  it  through  a  tammie  into  a  bowl,  add  the  apricots,  and 
finish  as  before. 

No.  1250.  Creme  au  Ponche. 

Boil  an  ounce  of  isinglass  in  three  quarters  of  a  pint  of 
milk  (five  minutes),  take  the  rind  firom  two  lemons  as  thin 
as  possible,  without  any  pith ;  directly  the  milk  commences 
boiling  throw  it  in,  then  in  another  stewpan  have  the  yolks 
of  five  eggs  and  four  ounces  of  powdered  sugar,  beat  well 
together  with  a  wooden  spoon,  then  add  the  milk,  mix  well, 
and  stir  over  the  fire  till  it  thickens,  pass  through  a  tanmiie 


\ 


528  ENTREMBTS. 

into  a  bowl,  and  when  cold  add  three  glasses  of  maresquino, 
one  of  rum,  and  a  teaspoonfiil  of  arrack,  place  upon  ice  and 
finish  as  before ;  six  liqueur  glasses  of  milk  punch  added 
instead  of  the  above  liqueurs  would  be  very  excellent. 

No.  1251.  Creme  an  Maresquin. 

Prepare  a  cream  as  for  the  creme  a  la  vanille,  only  adding 
a  quarter  of  an  ounce  more  isinglass  to  the  custard,  and 
when  cold  mixing  four  glasses  of  maresquino  with  it. 

No.  1252.  Creme  au  Noyeau. 

Proceed  exactly  as  in  the  last,  only  substituting  noyeau 
for  maresquino. 

No.  1258.   Creme  au  Cafe. 

Put  three  ounces  of  the  best  (unroasted)  Mocha  cofiSse 
into  a  stewpan,  keep  tossing  over  a  sharp  fire  till  it  be* 
comes  yellow,  in  another  stewpan  have  a  pint  of  milk  in 
which  you  have  boiled  an  ounce  of  isinglass,  throw  your 
coffee  into  it,  place  the  cover  upon  the  stewpan  and  let 
stand  till  half  cold,  have  the  yolks  of  five  eggs  in  another 
stewpan,  with  which  mix  four  ounces  of  powdered  sugar, 
then  add  the  nulk,  stir  over  the  fire  till  it  thickens,  and 
finish  as  before. 

No.  1254.  Creme  au  Caramel. 

Put  four  ounces  of  powdered  sugar  in  a  stewpan,  which  stir 
over  a  slow  fire  till  quite  melted  and  beginning  to  tint,  take 
it  off  the  fire ;  in  another  stewpan  have  three  quarters  of  a 
pint  of  milk  in  which  you  have  boiled  an  ounce  of  isinglass, 
pour  it  upon  the  caramel,  which  stir  occasionally  until  it  is 
quite  dissolved,  pour  into  another  stewpan  with  the  yolks 
of  five  eggs,  stir  over  the  fire  till  it  thickens,  when  pass 
through  a  tammie,  and  finish  as  before. 


r^ 


ENTREMETS.  529 


No.  1255.  Bavaroise  aux  Fraiaes. 

Pick  two  pounds  of  fine  red  strawberries,  which  put  into 
a  basin  with  half  a  pound  <£  powdered  sugar,  let  them  re- 
main half  an  hour,  then  rub  them  through  a  tammie,  add 
an  ounce  of  isinglass,  previously  dissolved  in  two  wine- 
glassfuls  of  water,  boiled  and  passed  through  a  tammie ; 
set  the  whole  upon  the  ice,  stirring  until  upon  the  point 
of  setting,  when  stir  in  a  pint  of  cream  well  whipped,  pour 
it  into  the  mould,  which  keep  upon  the  ice  till  set,  and 
when  wanted  dip  it  into  warm  water,  and  turn  out  upon 
your  dish. 

No.  1256.  Bavaroise  aux  Framboiaes, 

Proceed  exactly  as  for  the  strawberries  in  the  last,  using 
a  pound  and  a  quarter  of  raspberries  and  six  ounces  of 
currants ;  or  either  of  the  above  bavaroises  may  be  made 
by  putting  the  fruit  into  a  preserving-pan  with  three  quar- 
ters of  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  moving  it  over  the  fire 
until  boiling,  when  strain  it  through  a  silk  sieve  mixing  the 
juice  with  the  dissolved  isinglass,  and  finish  as  before; 
should  either  of  the  above  be  deficient  in  colour  a  Uttle 
essence  of  cochineal  may  be  used. 

No.  1257.  Bavaroise  ausc  Abricots. 

Take  twelve  ripe  fleshy  apricots,  cut  them  in  halves,  stone 
them,  and  put  them  into  a  preserving-pan  with  half  a  pound 
of  sugar,  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  and  an  ounce  of  isinglass, 
dissolved  in  a  little  water,  stew  them  till  quite  tender,  then 
rub  them  through  a  tammie,  put  them  in  a  basin  when  cold, 
stir  it  upon  the  ice,  and  when  upon  the  point  of  setting 
add  a  pint  of  cream  well  whipped,  and  pour  into  your 
mould. 

34 


530  ENTREMETS. 


No.  1258.  Bavaroise  aux  Poires. 

Procure  a  dozen  and  a  half  of  middling-sized  pears,  peel 
and  cut  out  the  cores,  slice  them  into  a  preserving-pan, 
with  the  juice  of  two  lemons  (the  rind  of  one  of  which  also 
add,  cut  very  thin),  twenty  bitter  almonds  blanched,  and 
chopped  very  fine,  half  a  pound  of  lump  sugar,  and  an  ounce 
of  clarified  isinglass,  place  the  pan  upon  a  moderate  fire, 
moving  the  contents  occasionally,  stew  until  quite  tender, 
when  rub  them  through  a  tammie,  and  finish  as  in  the 
last. 

No.  1259.  Bavaroise  aux  Pommes. 

Peel  and  cut  in  quarters  twenty  small  pippin  apples, 
which  put  into  a  preserving-pan,  with  the  juice  of  two 
lemons,  two  glasses  of  sherry,  half  a  pound  of  sugar,  and 
an  ounce  of  clarified  isinglass ;  proceed  precisely  as  in  the 
last  article,  adding  a  glass  of  maresquino,  if  approved  of,  or 
noyeau. 

No.  1260.  Bavaroise  atix  Pistaches. 

Blanch  and  skin  four  ounces  of  pistachios  with  twelve 
bitter  almonds,  and  pound  them  well  with  six  ounces  of 
sugar,  upon  which  you  have  rubbed  the  rind  of  a  lemon  ; 
when  well  pounded  throw  it  into  three  quarters  of  a  pint  of 
boiling  milk  with  three  quarters  of  an  oimce  of  isinglass, ' 
boil  altogether  five  minutes,  then  pour  it  into  a  bowl  or 
basin,  stand  upon  the  ice,  keep  stirring,  and  when  upon  the 
point  of  setting  add  a  pint  of  cream  whipped  and  some  of 
the  preparation  of  spinach,  as  for  the  creme  aux  pistaches 
(No.  1244) ;  pour  it  into  your  mould,  which  must  be  pre- 
viously lightly  oiled,  and  twenty  chopped  pistachios  shook 
over  the  interior,  until  adhering  to  the  sides. 


ENTii£M£TS.  531 

No.  1261.  Bavaroise  a  V Ananca. 

Procure  a  middlingsized  pineapple,  peel  and  cut  it  in 
slices,  which  put  into  a  small  preserving-pan,  with  half  a 
pound  of  sugar,  half  an  ounce  of  isinglass,  and  a  wineglass- 
ful  of  water,  stew  until  quite  tender,  then  rub  them  through 
a  tammie,  set  it  on  the  ice,  keeping  it  stirred ;  when  upon 
the  point  of  setting  add  a  pint  of  cream  well  whipped,  mix 
well,  and  pour  it  into  yomr  mould. 

No.  1262.  Bavaroise  au  Maresquin. 

Put  one  ounce  and  a  half  of  isinglass  in  a  stewpan,  with 
half  a  pint  of  water,  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  and  four  ounces 
of  lump  sugar,  boil  altogether,  reducing  one  half,  skim  and 
pass  it  through  a  tammie  into  a  bowl ;  when  cold  add  four 
glasses  of  maresquino,  and  two  of  brandy,  place  it  on  the 
ice,  and  when  upon  the  point  of  setting  add  a  pint  of  cream 
well  whipped,  and  pour  it  into  your  mould. 

No.  1263.  Bavaroise  au  Ponche, 

Boil  one  ounce  of  isinglass  in  a  stewpan  with  the  juice 
of  four  and  the  rind  of  two  lemons  cut  very  thin,  half  a 
pound  of  sugar,  and  nearly  half  a  pint  of  water,  reduce 
^  one  half,  then  pass  it  through  a  tammie  into  a  bowl  or 

basin,  and  when  cold  add  two  glasses  of  maresquino,  two  of 
rum,  and  half  a  one  of  arrack,  place  it  upon  the  ice  and 
finish  as  in  the  last,  or  use  the  milk  punch  as  directed  for 
creme  au  poncbe. 

I  must   here  observe,  that  although  I  have  stated  as 

nearly  as  possible  the  quantity  of  isinglass  to  be  used  in 

•  the  foregoing  recipes,  yet  there  are  so  many  causes  which 

I  may  make  it  either  too  much  or  insufficient,  such  as  the 

r  difference  in  quality  of  isinglass,  or  the  difference  in  the 

i  quantity  of  juice  extracted  from  the  various  fruits,  which 


532  ENTREMETS. 

■ 

would  make  it  impossible  to  be  exact ;  so  that  the  surest 
method  is  to  try  a  little  first  upon  the  ice  before  adding  the 
whipped  cream,  if  too  stiff,  a  httle  more  milk,  juice,  or 
liqueur  (whatever  it  may  be  you  are  making)  must  he 
added,  but  if  not  stiff  enough,  a  little  more  clarified  isin- 
glass, which  is  the  method  adopted  by  most  practitioners. 

No.  1264.  Charlotte  Rusae, 

Line  the  inside  of  a  plain  round  mould  with  Savoy  bis- 
cuits (No.  1361),  cutting  and  placing  them  at  the  bottom  to 
form  a  rosette,  and  standing  them  upright  round  the  sides, 
with  a  piece  cut  off  the  top  and  bottom  of  each,  and  trimmed 
at  the  sides  to  make  them  stand  quite  close,  stand  the 
mould  upon  ice,  then  have  ready  a  creme  au  maresquin 
(No.  1251),  to  which  you  have  added  a  good  glass  of  cognac 
brandy,  with  which  you  fill  the  interior,  when  set  and  at 
the  time  of  serving,  turn  over  upon  a  dish  and  lift  off  the 
mould, 

No.  1265.  Charlotte  Prmsienne, 

Put  a  little  jelly  (flavoured  with  a  little  brandy  and  co- 
loured of  a  beautiful  crimson,  with  a  little  essence  of  cochi- 
neal) into  a  plain  round  mould,  covering  the  bottom  half  an 
inch  in  depth ;  place  it  upon  the  ice,  then  line  the  sides  of 
the  mould  with  Savoy  biscuits,  and  fill  with  a  bavaroise  au 
maresquin  (No.  1262),  place  it  upon  ice  till  set,  and  when 
ready  to  serve  dip  the  bottom  of  the  mould  very  quickly  in 
warm  water,  and  turn  it  over  upon  your  dish. 

No.  1266.   Charlotte  Husse  en  mosaigue. 

Have  a  plain  round  mould,  at  the  bottom  of  which  lay 
some  grapes  (white  and  black),  strawberries,  pieces  of 
apples  (stewed),  pears,  or  any  fruit  in  season ;  cover  the 
bottom,  variegating  them  as  much  as  possible  to  imitate 


'  ^  '-J       '  '^^^^^^^^^'^^^^^^mm^ffmmmm 


ENTREMETS.  533 

mosaic^  set  the  mould  upon  ice,  and  pour  in  a  little  clear 
jelly,  but  only  sufficient  to  just  cover  them ;  when  set  line 
the  side  of  the  mould  with  the  biscuits,  and  fill  as  for 
charlotte  russe,  only  introducing  angelica  and  stewed 
apples,  cut  in  large  dice,  with  the  cream. 

No.  1267.   Charlotte  Russe  aux  Liqueurs. 

Line  a  mould  as  directed  in  either  of  the  three  last  ar- 
ticles, and  fill  with  a  cream  made  as  for  the  creme  au 
maresquin  (No.  1251),  only  using  one  glass  of  curapoa,  one 
of  noyeau,  and  one  of  maresquino,  instead  of  all  maresquino. 

No.  1268.   Charlotte  au^  Fraises. 

Line  a  plain  round  mould  with  ripe  strawberries  by 
burying  the  mould  in  ice  to  the  rim,  and  dipping  the  straw- 
berries in  calf 's-foot  jelly,  first  covering  the  bottom  with 
them  cut  in  halves,  the  cut  side  downwards,  afterwards 
building  them  up  the  sides,  the  jeDy  (which  must  be  cold, 
but  not  set)  causing  them  to  adhere ;  when  finished,  fill  it 
with  the  cream  as  directed  for  the  charlotte  russe,  and 
when  ready  to  serve,  dip  the  mould  in  warm  water,  and 
turn  it  out  upon  your  dish.  The  cream  must  be  very 
uearly  set  when  you  pour  it  in,  or  it  would  run  between  the 
strawberries  and  produce  a  bad  eftect. 

No.  1269.   Gateaux  aux  Fruits  de  belle  saison. 

Line  a  charlotte  mould  very  tastefully  with  various  kinds 
of  fruits  (such  as  stoned  cherries,  strawberries,  pieces  of 
peaches,  apricots,  apples,  or  pears,  cut  into  very  tasteful 
shapes,  stewed  in  a  little  synip,  and  drained  upon  the  back 
of  a  hau-  sieve),  by  dipping  them  into  jelly,  forming  some 
design  at  the  bottom  of  the  mould,  and  building  them  in 
reverse  rows  up  the  sides,  having  the  mould  previously 
placed  in  ice,  when  well  set,  tennhiate  as  in  the  last. 


531  ENTREMETS. 

No.  1270.  Charlotte  de  Pommes  au  Beurre. 

For  the  few  following  receipts,  the  russet  apple  is  the  one 
I  should  recommend,  it  being  the  most  suitable,  not  being 
so  watery,  or  falling  in  puree,  but  in  case  they  cannot  be 
obtained  other  sorts  may  be  used,  which  will  require  to  be 
more  reduced  in  stewing. 

Well  butter  the  interior  of  a  plain  round  mould,  then  cut 
twelve  pieces  of  bread  the  size  and  thickness  of  a  shilhng, 
dip  them  in  clarified  butter,  and  lay  them  in  a  circle  round 
the  bottom  of  your  mould ;  cut  also  eight  small  pieces  in 
the  shape  of  diamonds,  dip  them  in  butter,  and  with  them 
form  a  star  in  the  centre  of  the  circle,  cover  the  whole  with 
a  round  piece  of  bread  the  size  of  the  bottom  of  the  mould 
and  the  thickness  of  a  penny-piece,  cut  about  thirty  other 
pieces  an  inch  wide  and  four  inches  in  length,  dip  one 
after  the  other  in  clarified  butter,  which  stand  upright, 
one  half  way  over  the  other,  all  round  the  interior  of  the 
mould ;  then  have  ready  prepared  two  dozen  or  more  russet 
apples,  which  peel  and  cut  in  slices,  put  them  into  a  round- 
bottomed  preserving-pan  with  six  ounces  of  butter  and  half 
a  pound  of  broken  lump  sugar,  with  a  little  lemon-peel  cut 
in  strips,  and  a  glass  of  sherry,  place  them  over  a  sharp 
fire,  tossing  over  occasionally,  but  keeping  them  together  in 
a  cake ;  when  quite  tender  fill  your  mould  (having  previ- 
ously well  egged  and  bread-crumbed  the  interior),  place 
another  round  piece  of  bread  (also  egged  and  bread-crumbed) 
over  the  apples,  and  stand  the  mould  in  a  hot  oven  until  the 
bread  becomes  well  browned,  take  out  and  turn  it  over 
upon  your  dish,  have  a  few  spoonfuls  of  red  currant  jeUy 
in  a  stewpan,  with  a  glass  of  sherry,  melt  it  over  the  fire, 
and  when  quite  hot  pour  round  the  charlotte ;  sugar  and 
salamander  the  top  if  not  quite  crisp,  and  serve. 


ENTREMETS.  535 

4 

No.  1271.  Charlotte  de  Pommes  a  la  Confiture. 

Proceed  as  in  the  last,  but  when  the  apples  are  ready 
mix  a  few  spoonfuls  of  apricot  marmalade  with  them  and 

fill  the  mould ;  place  it  in  the  oven,  and  serve  as  before. 

» 

No.  1272.  Char tr erne  de  Pommes. 

Procure  twenty  small  russet  apples,  cut  oflF  the  top  and 
bottom  of  each,  and  with  a  long  vegetable  cutter  cut  out  as 
many  pieces  as  possible  of  the  thickness  of  a  quill,  and 
about  an  inch  in  length,  have  in  a  stewpan  upon  the  fire 
a  thick  syrup  made  from  half  a  pound  of  sugar,  with  the 
juice  of  a  lemon  and  half  a  pint  of  water ;  when  well 
reduced  throw  in  half  your  pieces  of  apples,  stew  them 
until  tender,  but  not  to  break,  take  them  out  and  lay 
them  upon  a  hair  sieve,  put  the  other  half  of  the  apples 
into  the  syrup,  stew  them  until  nearly  done,  then  add  a 
little  essence  of  cochineal  to  give  them  a  crimson  colour, 
stew  a  minute  or  so  more,  then  take  them  out,  lay  them  on 
the  sieve  till  cold,  lightly  oil  a  plain  round  mould,  cut  some 
pieces  of  green  angehca,  with  which  form  a  star  at  the 
bottom  of  the  mould,  and  a  border  round  the  bottom,  then 
with  the  white  pieces  of  apples  make  a  row  round  the  sides, 
standing  each  piece  upon  one  end  slantingly,  one  leaning 
upon  the  other,  above  which  place  a  row  of  the  red  pieces 
in  the  same  manner,  and  so  on  alternately  till  you  reach 
the  top ;  you  have  previously  peeled  a  dozen  and  a  half  of 
apples,  which  cut  in  sUces  and  put  in  a  preserving-pan, 
with  half  a  pound  of  sugar,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  a  small 
piece  of  butter,  a  Uttle  powdered  cinnamon,  and  a  small 
glass  of  rum,  place  them  over  a  sharp  fire,  stirring  occa- 
sionally until  forming  a  thick  marmalade,  put  them  in 
a  basin  until  cold,  fill  your  chartreuse,  and  when  ready 
to  sene  turn  it  out  upon  your  dish,  garnish  with  fillets 


536  KNTRKHETS. 

« 

of  red  currant  jelly,  and  pour  a  little  white  syrup  reserved 
from  the  apples  over. 

No.  1273.  Suedoise  de  Pommes, 

This  very  grotesque  entremet  was  never  a  favorite  of 
mine ;  any  kind  of  ornaments,  such'  as  cascades,  ruins, 
arches,  &c.,  may  be  made  from  them,  and  ornamented  with 
various  fruits,  but  they  look  very  heavy,  and  from  the 
apples  being  so  much  boiled  and  reduced  become  very 
unpalatable,  they  being  nothing  more  than  apples  boiled  in 
syrup  to  a  very  firm  marmalade ;  I  shall  not  here  enter 
into  the  various  modes  of  dressing  it,  but  substitute  other 
entremets,  which,  if  not  so  ornamental,  are  at  any  rate 
much  more  palatable. 

No.  1274.  Pain  de  Pomme9  a  la  Bttsae. 

Put  one  pound  and  a  half  of  liunp  sugar  and  a  pint  and 
a  half  of  water  into  a  round-bottomed  copper  preserving- 
pan,  place  it  over  a  sharp  fire  and  reduce  it  to  au  casse 
(No.  1879),  have  ready  twenty-four  good  brown  pippin 
apples  peeled  and  cut  into  slices,  which  put  into  the  sugar, 
keeping  stirred  until  it  becomes  quite  a  thick  marmalade, 
take  oflf  the  fire  and  put  it  into  a  cylinder  mould,  previ- 
ously slightly  oiled,  shake  it  well  down  and  let  it  remain 
until  quite  cold,  when  turn  it  out  of  the  mould  upon  your 
dish ;  have  a  few  spoonfuls  of  currant  jelly  in  a  stewpan, 
which  melt  over  the  fire,  add  two  glasses  of  good  old  rum, 
and  when  partly  cold  pour  over  and  serve  with  whipped 
cream  in  the  centre,  in  which  you  have  introduced  a  quar- 
ter of  an  ounce  of  candied  orange-flowers. 

No.  1275.  CroqttSttea  de  Pommea. 

Prepare  some  apples  as  in  the  above,  (or  the  remains 
of  one  previously  served,)  when  cold  form  it  into  the  shi^ 


ENTREMETS.  587 

of  pears,  have  three  eggs  in  a  basin  well  whisked,  dip  each 
piece  into  it,  then  throw  them  into  a  dish  of  bread-crumbs, 
smooth  them  over  with  a  knife,  then  again  dip  them  into 
the  eggs  and  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  of  a  Ught  brown  coloiur 
in  very  hot  lard,  dress  them  upon  a  napkin  in  pyra- 
mid, and  serve  with  sifted  sugar  flavoured  with  orange 
over  them. 

No.  1276.  Pommes  au  Biz, 

Peel  and  quarter  twelve  good-sized  apples,  put  them  into 
a  preserving-pan,  with  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar, 
the  thin  rind  of  a  lemon  in  strips,  the  juice  of  another, 
and  a  wineglassful  of  water,  pass  them  over  a  sharp  fire, 
and  when  tender  lay  them  upon  the  back  of  a  hair  sieve 
to  drain,  then  put  six  ounces  of  rice  into  a  stewpan,  with 
a  quart  of  milk,  place  it  upon  the  fire,  stir  until  boiling, 
then  place  it  upon  a  very  sIoav  fire  to  simmer  very  gently 
until  quite  tender,  placing  a  little  fire  upon  the  Ud,  if  it 
becomes  dry  before  it  is  tender  add  a  little  more  milk,  then 
add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  a  quarter  of  a  pomid  of 
butter,  and  four  eggs,  stir  them  well  in,  stir  over  the  fire 
until  becoming  again  thick,  when  put  it  upon  a  dish  to 
get  cold,  then  form  a  stand  with  it  upon  your  dish  eight 
inches  in  diameter  and  three  in  height,  but  hollow  in  the 
centre,  where  dress  some  of  the  apples,  more  rice  over, 
then  more  apples,  forming  a  pyramid ;  you  have  previously 
reduced  the  syrup  drained  from  the  apples,  which  pour 
over  the  whole,  and  garnish  with  some  very  green  angelica, 
forming  any  design  your  fancy  may  dictate.  Pommes  au 
riz  may  be  served  hot  as  well  as  cold. 

No.  1277.  Poires  au  Biz. 

Peel  and  cut  in  halves  eighteen  small  ripe  pears,  which 
put  in  a  small  preserving-pan,  with  three  quarters  of  a 


538  ENTREMETS. 

pound  of  sugar,  a  little  water,  and  the  juice  of  two  lemons^ 
stew  them  till  tender,  then  lay  them  upon  a  dish  to  cool, 
and  mix  three  tablespoonfids  of  apricot  marmalade  with  the 
syrup,  have  some  rice  prepared  as  in  the  last,  with  which 
make  a  stand,  but  not  quite  so  high,  dress  the  pears  in  a 
border  in  the  interior,  and  again  in  the  centre  dress  the 
remainder  of  the  rice  in  pyramid ;  when  ready  to  serve  pour 
the  sjrrup  over,  and  garnish  tastefully  with  angelica  round. 

No.  1278.  Abricot8  au  Riz. 

Proceed  exactly  as  in  the  last,  only  passing  two  dozen  of 
apricots  cut  in  halves,  with  the  kernels  from  the  stones  pre- 
viously blanched  and  skinned,  in  the  sjrrup  instead  of  pears, 
dress  them  upon  the  dish  precisely  the  same. 

No.  1279.  Poinmes  au  Riz  en  Timbale, 

Line  a  plain  round  mould  with  pate  fine  (No.  1136), 
having  previously  buttered  it,  the  paste  must  not  be  thicker 
than  a  shilling,  then  line  the  interior  of  the  paste  with  rice 
dressed  as  for  pommes  au  riz,  placing  eight  apples  in  the 
centre,  hkewise  dressed  as  for  pommes  au  riz,  cover  another 
sheet  of  paste  over,  and  put  in  a  hot  oven  until  the  paste  is 
quite  done;  when  three  parts  cold  turn  out  upon  your 
dish,  mask  it  over  with  apricot  marmalade,  and  decorate 
it  with  dried  cherries  and  blanched  pistachios,  according  to 
taste ;  do  not  serve  until  quite  cold.  Apricots  and  pears 
may  also  be  used ;  this  entremet  may  also  be  served  hot. 

No.  1280.  Pommes  a  la  Trianon, 

Put  four  ounces  of  ground  rice  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  pint 
and  a  quarter  of  milk  and  two  ounces  of  butter,  stir  until 
boiling,  then  add  the  rind  of  a  lemon  cut  very  thin,  let 
simmer  over  a  slow  fire*  until  the  rice  is  done  and  becomes 
rather  thick,  when  take  out  the  lemon-peel  and   add   a 


ENTREMETS.  589 

quarter  of  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar  and  the  yolks  of 
eight  eggs,  stir  again  over  the  fire  until  the  eggs  are  set, 
and  put  it  out  upon  a  dish  to  get  cold,  then  turn  twelve 
golden  pippin  apples,  taking  off  the  rind  without  leaving 
the  mark  of  your  knife,  having  previously  with  a  long 
vegetable  cutter  taken  out  the  cores,  rub  the  apples  with 
lemon-juice  and  stew  them  in  a  thick  syrup  (made  with 
three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar  boiled  with  half  a  pint 
of  water  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon),  stew  them  until  tender, 
but  keep  them  whole,  peel  and  quarter  three  oranges, 
which  (after  having  taken  out  the  apples)  just  give  a  boil 
up  in  the  syrup,  then  dress  the  rice  in  pjrramid  in  the 
centre  of  your  dish,  surrounded  with  the  apples  interspersed 
with  the  quarters  of  oranges,  and  pour  the  syrup  over  when 
ready  to  serve. 

No.  1281.  Pommes  Merinffuees. 

Line  a  small  raised  pie-mould,  three  inches  in  height  and 
eight  in  diameter,  with  pate  fine  (No.  1136),  about  a  quar- 
ter of  an  inch  in  thickness,  or  if  no  mould  raise  a  crust 
with  the  hands  of  pate  a  dresser,  fill  it  with  bran  or  flour, 
and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven ;  when  done  empty  it  and 
have  ready  some  apples  dressed  as  for  charlotte  de  pommcs 
(No.  1270),  or  dressed  in  syrup  as  in  the  last,  with  which 
fill  the  croustade,  then  make  a  meringue  preparation  (No. 
1218),  of  five  eggs,  which  lay  over  the  top,  smoothing  it 
nicely,  and  ornamenting  it  with  some  of  the  mixture,  by 
piping  it  with  a  paper  funnel  according  to  your  taste,  sift  a 
little  sugar  over,  and  place  it  in  a  very  slow  oven  till  it 
becomes  crisp,  and  serve  when  ready  either  hot  or  cold. 

No.  1282.  Pommes  a  la  Vestcde. 

Make  a  pyramid  of  rice  (upon  a  dish)  dressed  as  for 
pommes  au  riz  (No.  1276),  peel  and  cut  eight  russet  apples 


540  ENTREMETS. 

in  slices  and  put  them  into  a  preserving-pan,  with  half  a 
pound  of  sugar  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  stew  till  quite 
tender  and  put  them  into  a  basin  to  cool,  then  cut  nine 
small  apples,  (golden  pippins)  in  halves,  to  which  give  the 
shape  of  cups,  which  stew  in  a  thick  syiiip  until  nearly 
tender,  but  not  to  break,  then  place  the  apples  upon  the 
pyramid,  make  eighteen  small  tartelettes  (No.  1155)  of  thin 
gum  paste,  small  enough  to  fix  in  each  cup  of  apple,  and 
dress  them  in  pyramid  upon  the  others ;  when  ready  to 
serve  cover  the  whole  with  thick  syrup,  pour  a  teaspoonful 
of  brandy  into  each  tartelette,  with  some  in  the  dish,  which 
set  on  fire  at  the  moment  of  going  to  table,  it  has  a  very 
pleasing  effect. 

No.  1283.  Pommea  au  Beurre, 

Peel  eighteen  russet  apples,  which  c.ut  in  quarters  and 
trim  of  a  nice  shape,  put  them  into  a  small  preserving-pan, 
with  two  oimces  of  butter  and  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of 
sugar,  having  previously  rubbed  the  rind  of  an  orange  upon 
it  and  pomided  it,  pass  them  over  a  sharp  fire,  moving 
occasionally  until  quite  tender,  have  ready  buttered  a  plain 
dome  mould,  put  the  apples  into  it,  pressing  them  dovm  a 
little  close ;  when  half  cold  turn  it  out  of  the  mould  upon  a 
dish,  and  cover  all  over  with  apricot  marmalade ;  when  cold 
it  is  ready  to  serve. 

No.  1284.  Miroton  de  Pommea, 

Procure  a  dozen  russet  apples,  which  cut  into  slices  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  peel  and  take  out  the  cores 
with  a  round  cutter,  then  put  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a 
saute-pan,  spread  it  over  the  bottom  and  lay  in  your  apples, 
\vith  half  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar  and  the  juice  of  two 
lemons,  stew  gently  over  a  moderate  fire  \  when  done  dress 
them  rather  high  in  crown  upon  your  dish,  melt  three 


ENTREMETS.  541 

spoonfuls  of  red  currant  jelly  in  a  stewpan,  with  which  mix 
a  glass  of  Madeira  wine,  which  pour  over  when  ready  to 
serve. 

No.  1285.  Beigneta  de  Pommes, 

Make  a  paste  as  follows :  put  a  pound  of  sifted  flour  into 
a  basin,  with  which  mix  a  good  half  pint  of  water,  mix  it 
with  a  wooden  spoon  until  very  smooth,  then  have  an  ounce 
and  a  half  of  butter  melted  in  a  stewpan,  which  stir  into  it, 
whisk  the  whites  of  three  eggs  very  stiflF,  which  also  stir  in 
gently,  then  have  six  russet  apples,  which  cut  in  sUces  a 
quarter  .of  an  inch  in  thickness,  peel  them  and  take  out  the 
cores  with  a  round  cutter,  dip  each  piece  separately  into 
the  batter,  when  completly  but  thinly  enveloped  drop  them 
into  a  stewpan  of  hot  lard,  to  fry  them  well,  the  lard 
should  not  at  first  be  too  hot,  but  become  hotter  as  they 
proceed  in  cooking,  proceeding  thus  till  you  have  fried  the 
whole  of  them  a  nice  light  brown  colour,  drain  them  upon 
a  cloth,  then  lay  them  upon  a  baking-sheet,  sift  sugar  over 
and  glaze  them  with  the  salamander,  serve  dressed  in  a 
double  crown  upon  a  napkin. 

No.  1286.  Beifftieta  (T  Oranges. 

Prepare  a  paste  or  batter  as  in  the  last,  then  peel  eight 
middUng-sized  oranges,  quarter  them,  without  breaking 
the  thin  skin  that  divides  them,  and  take  off  all  the 
white  pith,  dip  each  piece  singly  into  the  batter,  and  then 
into  a  stewpan  of  hot  lard ;  fry  of  a  nice  light  colour,  drain 
upon  a  napkin,  lay  them  upon  a  baking-sheet,  sift  sugaf 
over,  glaze  with  the  salamander,  and  serve  them  dressed  in 
pyramid  upon  a  napkin. 

The  fruit  for  any  description  of  fritters  may  be  soaked  in 
any  liqueur  for  half  an  hour  before  they  are  required,  but  it 
often  prevents  their  being  well  fried. 


542  BNTEEMET8. 

No.  1287.  Bei^ets  de  Peches. 

Skin  and  cut  in  halves  twelve  ripe  but  firm  peacbes,  take 
out  the  stones  and  put  the  peaches  into  a  basin,  with  a 
quarter  of  a  poimd  of  powdered  sugar,  toss  them  together 
lightly,  but  not  to  break  the  peaches ;  have  a  batter  pre- 
pared as  in  the  last,  in  which  dip  each  piece  of  peach  se- 
parately, fry  them  in  lard,  not  too  hot,  glaze  and  serve  pre- 
cisely as  in  the  last. 

No.  1288.  BeigneUt  d'Abricots. 

Cut  twelve  or  fourteen  apricots  in  halves,  put  them  into 
a  basin  with  a  Uttle  powdered  sugar,  and  proceed  exactly  as 
for  beignets  de  peches. 

No.  1289.  Croquettes  de  Biz. 

Well  wash  half  a  pound  of  the  best  Carolina  rice,  which 
put  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  pint  and  a  half  of  milk,  and  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  place  it  upon  the  fire,  stir  until 
boiling,  then  place  it  upon  a  slow  fire,  cover  the  stewpan 
and  let  simmer  very  slowly  until  quite  tender ;  rub  the  rind 
of  a  lemon  upon  a  lump  of  sugar  weighing  a  quarter  of  a 
pound,  pound  it  in  a  mortar  quite  fine,  add  it  to  the  rice, 
with  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs  (mix  well),  stir  them  a  few  mi- 
nutes longer  over  the  fire  until  the  eggs  thicken,  but  do 
not  let  it  boil,  lay  out  upon  a  dish,  when  cold  form  it  into  a 
number  of  small  baUs,  or  pears,  or  into  long  square  pieces, 
according  to  fancy ;  have  three  or  four  eggs  in  a  basin  well 
whisked,  dip  each  piece  in  singly,  and  then  into  a  dish  of 
bread-crumbs,  smooth  them  gently  with  a  knife,  dip  them 
again  into  the  eggs  and  bread-crumbs,  put  them  into  a 
\\Tre  basket,  which  put  in  a  stewpan  of  very  hot  lard,  fry  a 
nice  light  brown  colour,  drain  on  a  cloth,  dress  them  pyra- 
midically  upon  a  napkin,  and  serve  with  powdered  sugar 
sifted  over  them. 


ENTREMETS.  548 

No.  1290.  Croquettes  de  Creme  cm  Biz. 

Proceed  precisely  as  in  the  last,  only  using  ground  rice 
instead  of  whole,  they  are  finished  and  served  exactly  the 
same. 

No.  1291.   Croquettes  de  Macaroni. 

Blanch  six  ounces  of  macaroni  in  half  a  gallon  of  boil- 
ing water  until  tender,  then  strain  and  put  it  in  a  basin 
of  cold  water ;  when  cold  cut  it  into  pieces  half  an  inch  in 
length,  and  put  it  into  a  stewpan  containing  a  pint  and 
a  half  of  boiling  milk,  in  which  you  have  infused  a  stick  of 
vanilla,  boil  until  it  becomes  thickish,  add  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  powdered  sugar,  two  oimces  of  butter,  and  the 
yolks  of  eight  eggs,  stir  them  well  in  over  the  fire  imtil  the 
eggs  thicken,  then  pour  out  upon  a  dish,  and  proceed 
precisely  as  for  the  croquettes  de  riz. 

No.  1292.   Croquettes  de  Vermicelle. 

Put  six  ounces  of  vermicelU  in  a  stewpan  with  a  pint 
and  a  half  of  milk,  boil  until  very  tender  and  becoming 
thick,  keeping  it  stirred  with  a  spoon,  then  add  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  sugar,  upon  which  the  rind  of  a  Seville  orange 
has  been  rubbed,  and  two  ounces  of  butter,  stir  well  in, 
add  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs,  and  proceed  as  directed  in  the 
last  article. 

Croquettes  of  semolina  may  also  be  made  the  same 
way. 

No.  1293.   Creme  Frite  a  la  Fatissiere, 

Put  the  yolks  of  six  eggs  in  a  stewpan  with  two  good 
tablespoonfuls  of  sifted  flour,  mix  quite  smooth  v^th  a 
wooden  spoon ;  then  add  a  pint  of  boiUng  milk  or  cream, 
stir  in  by  degrees  and  place  it  over  the  fire,  keeping  stirred 


544  ENTRKHETS. 

• 

until  it  thickens,  add  an  ounce  of  butter,  six  ounces  of 
sugar,  two  ounces  of  crushed  ratafias,  a  little  orange-flower- 
water,  and  three  whole  eggs,  mix  the  whole  well  together, 
and  stir  it  a  few  minutes  longer  over  the  Are  until  the  eggs 
set ;  then  pour  it  out  upon  a  saute-pan,  previously  oiled, 
and  when  quite  cold  cut  it  into  pieces  one  inch  wide  and 
two  and  a  half  long,  dip  them  in  eggs  and  bread-crumbs 
twice  over,  the  same  as  for  croquettes,  fry  them  in  the  same 
manner,  dress  upon  a  napkin  as  high  as  you  can,  with 
sifted  sugar  over,  they  may  be  flavoured  also  with  vanilla 
or  lemon.    They  may  be  varied  in  shape  according  to  fancy. 

No.  1294.  Beignets  Sofrfflcs  a  la  Vanille. 

Place  half  a  pint  of  milk  in  a  st^wpan  over  the  flre,  and 
when  boiling  put  in  a  fresh  stick  of  vanilli^  place  a  cover 
upon  the  stewpan,  let  it  infbse  ten  minutes,  then  take  out 
the  vanilla  and  add  rather  more  than  an  ounce  of  butter, 
place  it  again  upon  the  fire,  and  when  boiling  stir  in  quickly 
six  ounces  of  flour ;  dry  the  paste  well  over  the  fire,  keep- 
ing it  from  sticking  to  the  bottom  of  the  stewpan,  then 
take  it  off  and  stir  in  six  whole  eggs  graduaUy,  and  six 
ounces  of  powdered  sugar ;  have  ready  a  stev^pan  of  hot 
lard,  into  which  drop  the  above  mixture  in  pieces  about  the 
size  of  small  walnuts,  fry  a  nice  colour,  and  when  quite 
done  drain  them  upon  a  cloth,  and  serve  upon  a  napkin 
with  sifted  sugar  over ;  they  may  also  be  flavoured  with 
orange-flower-water. 

No.  1295.  Frangipane, 

Put  six  whole  eggs  in  a  stewpan  with  three  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  floiu*,  beat  well  together  with  a  wooden  spoon,  then 
add  a  pint  of  milk  or  cream,  and  keep  stirring  over  the  fire 
until  it  becomes  thick  and  upon  the  point  of  boiling ;  add 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  upon  wliich  the  rind  of  an 


KNTREMRTS.  545 

orange  or  lemon  has  been  rubbed^  two  ounces  of  crushed 
ratafias,  and  a  small  glass  of  brandy  (mix  well) ;  put  two 
ounces  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  place  it  upon  the  fire^  and 
when  getting  a  Utde  brown  stir  i  into  the  frangipane, 
which  is  then  ready  for  use ;  it  may  be  flavoured  also  with 
vanilla  or  any  of  the  flavours  used  for  such  purposes. 

No.  1296.   Omelettes  a  la  Celestine. 

Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar  and  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  flour  together  in  a  basin,  which  well  mix 
with  four  eggs  till  smooth,  then  add  nearly  half  a  pint  of 
milk ;  have  ready  an  omelette-pan,  in  which  put  a  small 
piece  of  butter,  when  the  pan  is  quite  hot  pour  in  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  the  mixture,  which  let  spread  all  over  the 
pan,  when  quite  set  and  of  a  light  brown  colour  under- 
neath, turn  it  over  upon  the  bottom  of  a  stewpan-lid,  pre- 
viously buttered,  and  again  from  that  upon  a  cloth,  pro- 
ceeding thus  with  the  whole  mixture,  then  spread  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  apricot  marmalade  upon  each ;  have  ready  some 
frangipane  as  directed  in  the  last,  quite  hot,  lay  a  piece  the 
size  of  a  small  sausage  upon  each,  and  fold  them  up  neatly, 
trim  the  ends,  lay  them  upon  a  baking-sheet,  sift  sugar  over 
and  glaze  lightly  with  the  salamander,  dress  them  in  crown, 
or  in  pyramid  upon  your  dish,  and  serve  very  hot. 

No.  1297.  Pannequets  a  la  Confiture. 

Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sifted  flour  into  a  basin  with 
four  eggs,  mix  them  together  very  smoothly,  then  add  half 
a  pint  of  milk  or  cream,  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  put  a 
piece  of  butter  in  your  pan  (it  requires  but  a  very  little), 
and  when  quite  hot  put  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  the  mix- 
tiure,  let  spread  all  over  the  pan,  place  it  upon  the  fire, 
and  when  coloured  upon  one  side  turn  it  over,  then  turn  it 
upon  your  cloth;  proceed  thus  till  they  are  all  done, 
L  35 


540  .  ENTREMETS. 

then  spread  apricot  or  other  marmalade  all  over,  and  roll 
them  up  neatly,  lay  them  upon  a  baking-sheet,  sift  sugar 
over,  glaze  nicely  with  the  salamander,  and  serve  upon 
a  napkin ;  the  above  may  be  served  without  the  marmalade, 
being  then  the  common  pancake. 


647 


REMOVES.  SECOND  C0UE5E. 


Mt  readers  could  not  have  failed  to  remark  the  nume- 
rous innovations  in  all  classes  of  dishes  throughout  this  work, 
which  nothing  but  constant  study,  practice,  and  profound 
knowledge  of  the  art  could  have  brought  to  perfection.  In 
the  following  Removes  still  greater  innovations  will  be 
found  than  in  any  other  department,  for  I  have  always 
aimed  at  producing  the  greatest  effect  upon  the  last  dishes 
sent  to  table,  particularly  as  they  are  the  ones  over  which 
each  convive  has  time  to  pass  remarks,  and  admire,  if  pro- 
perly executed.  The  transformation  of  the  second  course 
from  the  first  has  never  failed  to  give  the  greatest  satisfac- 
tion, and  has  often  caused  the  greatest  hilarity  at  table; 
some  parties,  unacquainted  with  them,  have  ordered  their 
removal,  thinking  they  belonged  to  the  first  course,  whilst 
others  have  actually  carved  them  before  discovering  their 
mistake.  And,  again,  those  Removes  being  only  demi- 
glace,  and  not  too  sweet,  refresh  the  palate,  disposes  it  more 
favorably  for  the  dessert,  and  does  not  prevent  the  freely 
partaking  of  the  ices  which  there  cannot  be  avoided.  Any 
kind  of  ice  pudding,  however  excellent  when  done  to  per- 
fection, is  too  close  an  imitation  of  the  dessert  ices,  and 
properly  belong  to  the  confectioner. 

To  regenerate  that  finish  of  the  dinner,  which  is  very 
properly  much  thought  of  in  England^  it  only  requires  a 
little  artistic  feeling,  which  is  soon  acquired  by  prac- 
tice and  perseverance.  To  simplify  them  as  much  as  pos- 
sible, I  have  only  described  one  sort  of  sponge-cake,  which 


54S  REMOVES. 

is  always  varied  in  flavour  by  the  different  kinds  of  firuits 
and  ices  with  which  they  are  filled. 

The  introduction  of  atelettes  of  fruit  in  the  Removes  as 
well  as  in  the  jeUies,  is  also  quite  a  new  idea,  and  renders 
the  appearance  of  both  very  novel  as  well  as  very  handsome. 

No.  1298.  Gateau  Brifannique  a  rAmiral, 

Make  a  sponge-cake  of  twenty  eggs  as  directed  (No. 
1369),  have  a  tin  mould  in  the  shape  of  a  vessel,  which 
paper  well  at  the  sides,  to  prevent  the  mixture  running 
over  whilst  baking  (the  mould  requires  to  be  eighteen  inches 
in  length,  six  in  breadth,  and  high  in  proportion) ;  butter 
and  lightly  floiur  the  interior  of  the  mould,  into  which  pour 
the  mixture,  which  bake  an  hour  and  a  half  in  a  moderate 
oven  (this  cake  requires  to  be  baked  a  day  or  two  before 
using) ;  mask  the  exterior  with  chocolate  iceing  '(No.  1383) 
to  imitate  the  colour  of  a  ship,  when  quite  dry  partly  empty 
the  interior,*  leaving  a  piece  across  in  the  centre,  to  fix  the 
mast  upon,  which  you  have  made  of  pate  d'office  (No.  1137), 
as  also  the  ladders,  rigging,  and  guns,  by  rolling  pieces  of  the 
paste  to  the  thickness  required  with  the  hands,  cutting  them 
to  the  lengths  required,  and  baking  them  a  light  colour  in 
a  moderate  oven;  mask  the  guns  with  chocolate  iceing, 
made  rather  darker  than  for  the  cake,  and  form  the  muz- 
zles with  small  rings  of  puff  paste,  place  them  judiciously 
at  the  sides,  as  also  the  mast  and  rigging  at  their  respec- 
tive places  (see  design),  place  the  vessel  upon  a  dish,  lay- 
ing rather  upon  one  side,  lay  rolls  of  gelee  a  la  bacchante 

*  111  emptying  the  interior  of  this  or  any  of  the  following  cakes  for  removes, 
care  should  be  taken  not  to  leave  them  either  too  thick  or  too  thin ;  if  too  thick 
it  would  not  hold  sufficient  ice,  and  eat  veiy  heavy,  if  the  reverse  it  would  1  e  too 
delicate,  and  not  hold  together  in  dishing  up.  About  three  quarters  of  an  inch 
in  most  cases  would  be  the  thickness  required.  Any  of  the  Removes  may  be 
curtailed  in  point  of  size,  but  the  above  would  be  sufficient  for  a  dinner  of 
eighteen  persons. 


SECOND    COURSE.  549 

^o.  1240)  round,  over  which  lay  thin  shoes  of  the  same 
to  form  waves,  make  the  sails  of  wafer  or  rice-paper,  fix 
them  to  the  mast  as  if  filled  with  wind,  upon  the  side  the 
vessel  is  laying  on,  have  also  a  flag  made  of  the  same  ma- 
terial, painted  with  a  little  water-colour,  which  place  at  the 
stem ;  weU  soak  the  interior  with  wine  and  brandy,  mixed 
with  apricot  marmalade,  just  before  serving,  and  when 
ready  fill  with  a  deUcate  vanilla  ice  (No.  1881) ;  you  have 
previously  formed  some  ropes  of  spun  sugar,  which  affix  to 
the  riggmg  at  the  moment  of  serving. 

This  dish  has  a  pleasing  effect,  and,  unlike  many  orna- 
mental dishes,  the  whole  of  it  is  eatable.  It  may  be  rather 
difficult  for  many,  but  with  a  few  trials,  aided  by  the  above 
directions,  I  flatter  myself  it  may  be  easily  accomplished,  but 
of  course  a  great  deal  depends  upon  the  taste  of  the  person 
employed,  who,  if  they  could  not  accompUsh  one  thing, 
would  resort  to  another,  and  succeed  in  making  a  very 
handsome  dish.  Should  you  have  no  mould  to  bake  the 
cake  in,  bake  it  in  something  as  near  as  you  can  to  the 
size,  and  afterwards  shape  it  with  a  knife;  and,  again, 
should  it  be  inconvenient  to  make  the  green  jelly  for  gar- 
nishing, any  other  description  of  white  clear  jelly  may  be 
used.  The  remains  and  trimmings  are  very  good  made 
into  cabinet  pudding. 

No.  1299.  Hure  de  Sanglier  glace  en  mrpris€y 

Or  mock  boar's  head ;  this  dish,  although  more  simple 
than  the  last,  is  no  less  pleasing.  Make  a  sponge-cake  of 
thirty  eggs  (No.  1869),  which  bake  (in  an  oval  baking-dish 
or  common  tin  dish-cover)  nearly  two  hours  ;  the  cake  re- 
quires to  be  ten  inches  in  thickness  at  one  end,  and  about 
six  at  the  other  (which  may  be  accomphshed  by  tilting  the 
dish  sUghtly  upon  one  end  to  bake  the  cake) ;  the  next  day 
cut  it  into  the  shape  of  a  dressed  boar's  head  with  a  knife, 
then  carefully  take  out  the  interior  to  within  an  inch  of  the 


636  KNTREMETS. 

of  red  currant  jelly,  and  pour  a  little  white  syrup  reserved 
from  the  apples  over. 

No.  1273.  Suedoise  de  Pommes. 

This  very  grotesque  entremet  was  never  a  favorite  of 
mine;  any  kind  of  ornaments,  such'  as  cascades,  ruins, 
arches,  &c.,  may  be  made  from  them,  and  ornamented  with 
various  fruits,  but  they  look  very  heavy,  and  from  the 
apples  being  so  much  boiled  and  reduced  become  very 
unpalatable,  they  being  nothing  more  than  apples  boiled  in 
syrup  to  a  very  firm  marmalade ;  I  shall  not  here  enter 
into  the  various  modes  of  dressing  it,  but  substitute  other 
entremets,  which,  if  not  so  ornamental,  are  at  any  rate 
much  more  palatable. 

No.  1274.  Pain  de  Pommea  a  la  Rmae. 

Put  one  pound  and  a  half  of  lump  sugar  and  a  pint  and 
a  half  of  water  into  a  round-bottomed  copper  preserving- 
pan,  place  it  over  a  sharp  fire  and  reduce  it  to  au  casse 
(No.  1379),  have  ready  twenty-four  good  brown  pippin 
apples  peeled  and  cut  into  shces,  which  put  into  the  sugar, 
keeping  stirred  until  it  becomes  quite  a  thick  marmalade, 
take  off  the  fire  and  put  it  into  a  cylinder  mould,  previ- 
ously slightly  oiled,  shake  it  well  down  and  let  it  remain 
until  quite  cold,  when  turn  it  out  of  the  mould  upon  your 
dish ;  have  a  few  spoonfuls  of  currant  jelly  in  a  stewpan, 
which  melt  over  the  fire,  add  two  glasses  of  good  old  rum, 
and  when  partly  cold  pour  over  and  serve  with  whipped 
cream  in  the  centre,  in  which  you  have  introduced  a  quar« 
ter  of  an  ounce  of  candied  orange-flowers. 

No.  1275.  CroqtMteB  de  Pommes. 

Prepare  some  apples  as  in  the  above,  (or  the  remains 
of  one  previously  served,)  when  cold  form  it  into  the  shape 


ENTREMETS.  587 

of  pears,  have  three  eggs  in  a  basin  well  whisked,  dip  each 
piece  into  it,  then  throw  them  into  a  dish  of  bread-crumbs, 
smooth  them  over  with  a  knife,  then  again  dip  them  into 
the  eggs  and  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  of  a  Ught  brown  colour 
in  very  hot  lard,  dress  them  upon  a  napkin  in  pyra- 
mid, and  serve  with  sifted  sugar  flavoured  with  orange 
over  them. 

No.  1276.  Pommes  au  Riz. 

Peel  and  quarter  twelve  good-sized  apples,  put  them  into 
a  preserving.pan,  with  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar, 
the  thin  rind  of  a  lemon  in  strips,  the  juice  of  another, 
and  a  wineglassful  of  water,  pass  them  over  a  sharp  fire, 
and  when  tender  lay  them  upon  the  back  of  a  hair  sieve 
to  drain,  then  put  six  ounces  of  rice  into  a  stewpan,  with 
a  quart  of  milk,  place  it  upon  the  fire,  stir  until  boihng, 
then  place  it  upon  a  very  slow  fire  to  simmer  very  gently 
until  quite  tender,  placing  a  little  fire  upon  the  Ud,  if  it 
becomes  dry  before  it  is  tender  add  a  little  more  milk,  then 
add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
butter,  and  four  eggs,  stir  them  well  in,  stir  over  the  fire 
until  becoming  again  thick,  when  put  it  upon  a  dish  to 
get  cold,  then  form  a  stand  with  it  upon  your  dish  eight 
inches  in  diameter  and  three  in  height,  but  hollow  in  the 
centre,  where  dress  some  of  the  apples,  more  rice  over, 
then  more  apples,  forming  a  pyramid ;  you  have  previously 
reduced  the  syrup  drained  from  the  apples,  which  pour 
over  the  whole,  and  garnish  with  some  very  green  angelica, 
forming  any  design  your  fancy  may  dictate.  Pommes  au 
riz  may  be  served  hot  as  well  as  cold. 

No.  1277.  Poires  au  Biz. 

Peel  and  cut  in  halves  eighteen  small  ripe  pears,  which 
put  in  a  small  preserving-pan,  with  three  quarters  of  a 


• 


550  ilEMOVBS. 

surface^  in  as  large  pieces  aa  possible,  put  the  pieces  back 
again  to  keep  the  cake  in  its  proper  shape,  torn  it  over 
upon  the  bottom  of  a  large  dish,  and  mask  it  all  over  with 
a  chocolate  iceing  as  near  as  possible  to  the  colour  of  the 
real  boar's  head,  form  the  eyes  with  white  iceing,  placing 
a  dried  cherry  in  the  centre,  and  forming  the  eyelashes  with 
thin  fillets  of  pistachios,  make  the  tusks  of  gum  paste 
(No.  1189)  or  pate  d'offioe  (No.  1187),  and  the  ears  of  puff 
paste  (No.  1132),  by  working  it.  a  little  with  the  hands, 
giving  them  their  shape,  and  baking  them  upon  two  round 
cutters  of  a  corresponding  size,  fix  them  with  a  stiffish 
paste  made  of  flour  and  white  of  ^gs,  when  done,  upon  the 
head,  and  mask  them  also  with  chocolate  iceing ;  fix  in 
the  tusks,  and  when  well  dried  and  ready  to  serve  empty 
the  interior,  which  soak  with  a  Uttle  brandy,  and  fill  with  a 
lemon-cream  ice  (No.  1886)  in  which  you  have  introduced 
four  glasses  of  cura^oa,  turn  it  over  upon  a  silver  dish, 
glaze  over  with  currant  jelly,  melted  and  mixed  with  a  little 
wine,  and  garnish  with  gelee  au  dtron  (No.  1225)  made 
reddish  with  a  little  cochineal,  to  give  it  the  colour  of  a 
brown  aspic  (No.  1360),  form  some  bold  design  upon  the 
top  (between  the  eyes)  with  it  in  croutons,  mid  the  re- 
mainder chopped  and  also  in  croutons  around. 

No.  1300.  Cipie  glace  en  surprise. 

Make  a  large  sponge-cake  of  forty  eggs  as  directed 
(No.  1 369),  bake  it  in  a  large  oval  tin  dish-cover  (about  two 
hours  and  a  half  would  be  the  time  required),  and  the  next 
day  cut  it  with  your  knife  into  the  form  of  the  body  of  a 
swan  (leaving  a  space  in  the  breast  down  the  front  for  the 
neck),  empt^  the  interior  as  in  the  last ;  ice  it  over  with  a 
white  iceing,  and  when  upon  the  point  of  setting  ruffle  it 
with  the  prongs  of  a  fork  in  imitation  of  feathers,  form  the 
head  and  neck  of  pate  d'office  (No.  1137)  by  rolling  out  a 
piece  with  the  hands  of  sufficient  length  and  prop(»rtiotiate 


SliCQND    COURSE.  551 

Ihickmess  to  form  the  neck,  being  rather  thicker  at  one  eud 
than  at  the  other ;  cut  it  in  halves  lengthwise,  placing  them 
upon  a  buttered  baking-sheet,  the  cut  side  downwards, 
model  each  half  head  with  taste  separately,  form  each  piece 
exactly  alike,  and  of  the  same  size  for  the  neck,  being  some* 
what  in  the  form  of  the  letter  S,  but  finishing  quite  straight 
at  the  bottom,  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  when 
done  join  them  together  with  a  paste  made  of  flour  and 
white  of  egg,  with  which  also  affix  it  to  the  dish  you  intend 
serving  it  upon  (previously  scraping  the  bottom  of  the  neck 
quite  flat  with  a  knife),  mask  it  over  with  a  white  iceing, 
and  when  upon  the  point  of  setting  ruffle  it  with  the  prongs 
of  a  fork,  and  set  in  a  warm  place  imtil  dry ;  an  hour  be- 
fore serving  pour  some  gelee  au  maresquin  (No.  1227)  odd, 
but  not  set,  into  the  dish,  filling  it  to  the  inner  rim,  and 
stand  it  in  a  cold  place  until  set;  when  ready  to  serve 
empty  the  interior  of  the  body,  which  soak  with  three 
glasses  of  maresquino  and  three  of  brandy ;  fill  with  a  va- 
nilla ice  (No.  1381),  with  which  you  have  mixed  two 
ounces  of  dtron,  two  ounces  of  angelica,  two  ounces  of  cur- 
rants, and  two  ounces  of  Smyrna  raisins,  the  citron  and 
angelica  cut  into  dice,  and  all  soaked  three  hours  in  mares- 
quino and  brandy;  turn  it  over  on  your  dish  upon  the 
jelly,  fixing  it  neatly  to  the  neck,  you  have  previously  made 
some  Sucre  file  (No.  1380),  with  which  form  the  wings  and 
tail,  and  fix  in  their  respective  places,  whip  about  a  quart 
more  of  the  jelly  as  above  upon  ice  until  upon  the  point 
of  setting,  and  with  it,  when  set,  form  a  kind  of  foam  at 
the  breast,  diminishing  it  at  the  sides  by  degrees,  in  imita- 
tion of  waves  caused  by  the  bird  swimming. 

No.  1301.  Javibon  ^lace  en  surprise. 

Make  a  sponge-cake  of  twenty-four  eggs  as  directed 
^No.  1369),  bake  it  in  a  mould  of  the  shape  of  a  ham,  or 
in  a  baking-dish,  having  a  cake  about  six  inches  in  thick- 


652  REMOVES. 

Dcss,  and  when  cold  cutting  it  with  a  knife  in  the  shape  of 
a  ham,  empty  the  interior  as  before,  mask  the  exterior  with 
chocolate  iceing  as  near  to  the  colour  of  real  cooked  ham  as 
possible,  over  which  sprinkle  a  few  chopped  pistachios  and 
crushed  ratafias,  in  imitation  of  chopped  parsley  and  bread- 
crumbs ;  you  have  reserved  a  little  of  the  iceing,  with  which 
mix  some  more  melted  chocolate,  making  it  a  very  dark 
brown,  it  will  wh^n  cool  form  a  kind  of  paste,  with  which 
form  a  part  of  the  skin  of  a  ham  left  upon  the  knuckle  end, 
cut  in  points  when  dry  and  ready  to  serve,  line  the  interior 
with  apricot  marmalade,  soak  it  a  little  with  brandy,  fill  it 
with  apricot  ice  (No.  1387),  turn  over  upon  your  dish, 
glaze  with  a  little  melted  currant  jelly,  form  a  star  of  clear 
brownish  calf 's-foot  jelly  upon  the  top,  flavoured  according 
to  taste,  with  some  chopped  and  in  croutons  around,  run  a 
skewer  in  at  the  knuckle,  upon  which  place  a  paper  finll, 
and  serve. 

No.  1302.   Gi^ot  de  Mouton  bouUli  fflace  en  surprise. 

Make  a  cake  of  the  same  size  as  the  last,  but  bake  it  in 
a  smaUer  compass,  that  is,  more  round  and  smaller  at  one 
end  than  at  the  other;  the  next  day  form  it  with  your 
knife  into  the  shape  of  a  leg  of  mutton,  mask  it  over  with 
a  white  iceing  in  which  you  have  introduced  a  very  little 
chocolate,  to  give  it  the  colour  as  near  as  possible  of  the 
fat  of  a  1^  of  mutton  when  boiled  (having  previously 
emptied  the  interior) ;  form  the  knuckle-bone  of  pate  d'of- 
fice,  and  imitate  the  lean  part  with  some  chocolate  iceing ; 
when  dry  and  ready  to  serve,  soak  the  interior  with  four 
spoonfuls  of  preserved  greengages,  mixed  with  two  glasses 
of  sherry,  and  fill  it  with  strawberry  ice  (No.  1388) ;  turn 
it  over  upon  your  dish,  place  a  paper  frill  upon  the  knuckle, 
surround  it  with  gelee  mousseuse  (No.  1232)  in  broken 
pieces,  to  imitate  mashed  turnips,  and  a  few  apples  dressed 
as  for  pommes  ti  la  Trianon  (No.  1280),  to  imitate  whole 


SECOND    COURSE.  563 

ones ;  make  also  a  custard  with  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  and 
half  a  pint  of  milk  (as  directed  for  creme  au  maresquin^ 
omitting  the  isinglass),  to  which,  when  cold  and  thickish, 
add  an  ounce  of  very  green  pistachios,  blanched  and  coarsely 
chopped  in  imitation  of  capers,  which  pour  over  the  cake 
previous  to  garnishing. 

No.  1303.  SeUe  de  Mouton  a  la  Jardiniere  en  surprise. 

Make  a  sponge-cake  with  the  same  quantity  of  eggs  as 
in  the  last,  which  bake  in  a  long  square  baking-dish,  or 
form  a  square  in  a  round  one  with  bands  of  paper,  fixing 
them  in  their  place^  with  pieces  of  common  paste  against 
the*  side  of  the  dish ;  the  next  day  form  it  with  a  knife  to 
the  shape  of  a  saddle  of  mutton,  trussed  as  for  roasting  (as 
near  as  possible),  ice  it  as  in  the  last,  but  rather  darker,  with 
chocolate,  to  imitate  a  real  one  when  roasted  (imitate  it  from 
a  real  one  should  you  have  one) ;  you  have  previously 
emptied  the  interior,  form  the  lean  parts  with  darker  co- 
loured chocolate  iceing,  and  the  flaps  by  graining  it  with 
a  knife ;  when  dry  and  ready  to  serve  fill  with  apricot  ice 
(No.  1387),  turn  it  over  upon  your  dish,  garnish  with  a 
custard  made  as  for  vanilla  ice  (No.  1881),  but  coloured 
brown  with  a  Uttle  melted  chocolate,  to  which  add  a  quan- 
tity of  fruits,  dressed  as  directed  for  chartreuse  de  pommes 
(No.  1272),  thus  imitating  a  sauce  with  vegetables ;  green 
ciurants  passed  in  sugar,  and  mixed  with  and  served  in  the 
custard,  make  a  very  good  imitation  of  peas. 

No.  1304.   Cotelettes  de  Mouton  glace  en  surprise. 

Make  a  sponge-cake  of  eighteen  eggs  as  directed  (No. 
1369),  which  bake  in  a  baking-dish  so  that  the  cake  shall 
be  about  four  inches  in  thickness  \  when  baked  and  cold  cut 
it  in  thin  slices,  lay  them  upon  your  table,  and  spread 
apricot  marmalade  upon  each  alternate  slice^  then  lay  those 


«.4_ 


554  RBMOVKS. 

slices  without  the  marmalade  upon  the  others,  press  gently 
together  and  cut  them  into  pieces  about  three  inches  in 
length  and  one  and  a  half  in  breadth,  of  the  shape  of  oote- 
lettes,  using  a  round  cutter  to  form  the  circle  of  the  cote- 
lette,  have  ready  some  thin  light  dioookte  ioeing  in  a 
basin  and  some  ratafia-crumbs  in  a  dish,  mask  the  cotefettes 
lightly  with  the  chocolate  iceing  and  throw  them  into  the 
crumbs,  take  them  out,  pat  them  gently  with  your  knife, 
put  a  piece  of  blanched  ahnond  in  the  end  to  imitate  the 
bone,  and  put  them  upon  a  baking-sheet  in  the  screen  to 
dry  ;  when  ready  make  a  thin  border  of  apricot  or  any  other 
marmalade  on  a  silver  dish,  upon  which  dress  the  ootelettes 
in  border,  garnish  round  with  strawberry  jelly,  chopped  and 
in  croutons,  and  serve  with  a  vanilla  ice  dressed  very  high 
in  the  centre. 

No.  1305.  Haunch  of  Lamb  glace  en  mrprise. 

Make  a  sponge-cake  (No.  1869)  of  thirty^ix  eggs,  which 
bake  in  a  very  long  mould ;  when  cold  cut  it  into  the  form 
of  a  haunch  of  lamb  (or  it  may  be  baked  in  two  separate 
pieces  and  afterwards  joined  together  with  the  iceing), 
empty  the  interior,  which  again  put  into  the  cake  to  keep 
it  in  shape,  mask  it  over  with  an  iceing  of  a  hght  gold  co- 
lour, made  by  adding  a  little  melted  chocolate  and  cochi- 
neal; when  dry  and  ready  to  serve  moisten  with  some 
brandy  and  preserved  strawberries,  and  fill  with  strawberry 
or  vaniDa  ice  (Nos.  1381,  1388),  place  a  fiill  upon  the 
knuckle-bone,  which  you  have  previously  formed  of  pate 
d  office,  glaze  it  over  with  apricot  marmalade  and  currant 
jelly  mixed,  pour  a  little  melted  currant  jelly  mixed  with 
wine,  in  imitation  of  gravy,  round  land  serve. 

No.  1306.  Shoulder  of  Lamb  glace  en  surprise 
Is  very  good  for  a  small  party ;  make  a  sponge-cake 


SECOND    COURSK.  555 

(No.  1860)  of  twelve  eggs,  bake  it  in  a  flat  saute-pan,  and 
when  done  and  cold  form  it  into  the  shape  of  a  shoulder, 
empty  a  little  from  the  interior,  fix  on  the  knuckle,  which 
you  have  formed  of  p&te  d'office  (No.  1187),  and  mask  the 
whole  over  with  nearly  a  white  ioeing  to  imitate  a  boiled 
shoulder  of  lamb ;  when  dry  and  ready  to  serve  dish  it  up 
mth  vanilla  ice  (No.  1881)  in  the  interior,  and  round  in 
imitation  of  mashed  turnips. 

No.  1307*  Cotelettes  d'Agneau  a  la  Beforme  en  surprise 

aux  Champignons. 

Make  a  sponge-cake  as  directed  for  cotelettes  de  mouton 
en  suprise  (No.  1804),  cut  it  into  pieces  of  the  same  shape, 
but  much  smaller;  mask  them  over  hghtly  with  apricot 
marmalade,  and  dip  them  into  ratafia  crumbs,  it  will  give 
them  a  lighter  appearance ;  form  the  bone  with  strips  of 
blanched  ahnonds,  and  dress  them  the  reverse  way  on 
your  dish  upon  a  border  of  marmalade,  melt  some  currant 
jelly  in  a  stewpan,  with  which  mix  some  syrup  of  pine- 
apples, put  in  forty  thin  strips  of  pineapples,  forty  ditto  of 
green  angelica,  and  forty  preserved  cherries,  pour  it  over  the 
cotelettes,  and  when  set  and  ready  to  serve  fill  the  centre 
with  a  lemon  ice  (No.  1385),  and  garnish  with  some  mush- 
rooms of  meringues  (No.  1 222). 

No.  1308.   Cliapon  en  surprise  glace  aux  Fruits. 

Make  a  sponge-cake  of  twenty  ^gs,  bake  it  in  a  k)ng 
roundish  mould,  or  an  old  tin  dish-cover ;  when  done  and 
quite  cold  form  it  with  your  knife  into  the  shape  of  a 
roasted  capon  trussed,  with  the  legs  inside ;  form  the  pinions 
of  the  wings  with  pate  d'ofiice,  stick  them  to  the  sides  in 
their  proper  position,  then  mask  it  over  with  a  light  choco- 
late iceing  in  which  you  have  introduced  a  little  prepared 
cochineal,  to  give  it  the  colour  as  near  as  possible  of  a  roast 


556  RKMOVKS. 

capon ;  you  have  previously  emptied  it^  and  again  filled  it 
to  keep  it  in  shape,  but  when  perfectly  dry  again  empty 
it  and  line  the  interior  with  orange  marmalade,  soak  it 
with  a  little  wine,  fill  the  interior  with  an  orange  cream  ice 
(No.  1386)  flavoured  with  noyeau,  turn  it  over  upon  a 
silver  dish,  garnish  round  with  pears  dressed  as  for  poires 
au  riz  (No.  1277),  mixing  their  syrup  with  a  Kttle  apricot 
marmalade,  and  pouring  it  over  them ;  you  have  made  a 
croustade  of  pate  d'ofiice^  in  imitation  of  the  one  of  bread, 
in  the  form  of  a  gondoUere,  upon  which  place  a  few  straw- 
berries, a  peach,  and  cherries,  which  place  at  the  head  of 
the  dish  with  silver  atelettes  of  firuit  upon  it,  and  serve. 
To  form  a  good  imitation  of  a  capon,  you  require  to  have  a 
real  one  before  you,  or  at  least  a  fowl,  if  possible. 

No.  1309.  Fetits  Poumns  en  surprise  a  la  Sutherland. 

Make  a  sponge-cake  of  thirty  eggs  (No.  1369),  and  when 
finished  stir  in  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter  (melted) 
very  gently,  bake  it  in  three  oval  moulds,  each  about  the 
size  of  a  large  chicken ;  when  quite  cold  cut  each  one  into 
the  shape  and  size  of  a  spring  chicken  trussed  as  for  boil- 
ing, (having  a  real  one  as  a  model,)  empty  the  interiors, 
place  it  in  again  to  keep  them  in  shape,  mask  them  all 
over  with  a  white  iceing  (No.  1373)  to  which  you  have 
added  a  little  brovm  brandy  instead  of  lemon-juice ;  you 
have  previously  formed  the  claws  of  pate  d'oflSce  (No.  1137) 
and  baked  them,  fix  them  at  the  sides  in  their  proper  posi- 
tions and  place  them  to  dry,  you  have  also  made  three 
cakes  of  Genoise  paste  (No.  1201)  of  the  same  size  as  the 
above,  and  when  cold  cut  two  of  them  into  the  form  of 
Russian  tongues,  well  trussed,  and  make  them  with  a  cho- 
colate iceing  as  near  as  possible  to  the  colour  of  real 
tongues,  with  the  cake  cut  a  croustade  in  imitation  of  a 
bread  croustade,  mask  it  with  a  very  light  chocolate  iceing, 


SECOND    COURSE.  557 

and  ornament  it  with  small  designs  of  puff  paste  baked  very 
white,  or  gum  paste,  place  it  at  the  head  of  your  dish ;  when 
ready  to  serve,  fix  three  silver  atelettes  of  fruits  (see  Plate) 
upon  the  top ;  again  empty  the  interior  of  the  imitation 
chickens  and  fill  them  with  a  creme  plombiere  (No.  1332), 
place  two  of  them  with  their  tails  towards  the  croustades, 
with  a  fine  bunch  of  black  grapes  hanging  from  it,  then  the 
two  imitation  tongues,  which  glaze  over  with  melted  currant 
jelly,  then  the  other  imitation  chicken  between  them,  place 
the  remainder  of  the  creme  plombiere  round  and  between, 
place  a  fine  red  strawberry  with  the  stalk  on  here  and  there, 
and  serve  with  a  thickish  custard  in  which  you  have  intro- 
duced two  glasses  of  noyeau  over  each. 

No.  1310.  Dindonneau  en  surprise  a  la  Gondoliers. 

Make  a  sponge-cake  (No.  1369)  of  thirty  eggs,  which 
«bake  (in  an  old  tin  dish-cover)  in  a  moderate  oven;  when 
done  turn  it  out  upon  a  sieve,  and  when  quite  cold  cut  it 
into  the  shape  of  a  trussed  turkey,  (having  a  real  one  for  a 
model,  which  may  be  used  in  the  first  course,  these  dishes 
only  being  appropriated  to  large  dinners,)  which  mask  over 
with  a  chocolate  iceing  to  imitate  as  near  as  possible  the 
colour  of  a  roasted  turkey,  having  previously  emptied  the 
interior,  which  again  place  in  to  keep  its  shape,  form  the 
claws  with  pate  d'office  (No.  1 1 37),  and  cover  them  with  a 
httle  of  the  iceing  made  darker  with  a  little  more  chocolate, 
make  a  nice  croustade  of  Genoise  paste  (No.  1201),  the 
shape  of  the  head  of  a  gondola,  which  fix  at  the  head  of  the 
dish,  again  empty  the  cake,  soak  the  interior  with  brandy 
and  apricot  marmalade,  fill  with  an  apricot  cream  half  iced, 
turn  over  upon  your  dish,  garnish  round  with  a  red  mous- 
seuse  jelly  in  croutons,  and  small  pears  cut  in  halves  and 
stewed  as  directed  (No.  1145),  glaze  over  with  currant  jelly 
melted  with  a  Uttle  wine,  and  serve. 


568  HEUOVES. 

No.  1311.  Peacock  a  la  Louis  QueUorze, 

Make  a  cake  of  the  same  size  as  in  the  last,  bake  the 
same,  and  when  done  and  cold  cut  in  the  shape  of  the 
body  of  a  large  bird,  mask  it  over  with  a  pinkish  whitt^ 
loeing,  rather  thick,  having  previously  emptied  it;  have 
ready  blanched  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  pistachios  (very 
green)^  make  the  neck  and  head  of  pate  d'of&ce  in  two 
separate  halves  lengthwise,  as  directed  for  the  swan,  only 
giving  the  head  the  shape  of  a  peacock,  bake  a  light  colour, 
and  join  them  together  with  a  paste  made  of  whites  of 
eggs  and  flour,  fix  it  upon  the  dish  vnth  the  same  paste, 
having  formed  the  bottom  so  that  the  body  will  adhere 
closely  and  unperceivedly  to  it,  mask  it  vrith  the  same  ice- 
ing,  cut  the  pistachios  in  flat  fillets,  and  stick  them  into 
the  neck  to  form  feathers,  you  have  previously  mixed  a 
quantity  of  red  and  green  sugar  (No.  1376)  together, 
which  sprinkle  thickly  over  the  body  of  the  bird;  when 
dry,  again  empty  the  interior,  which  moisten  with  Malaga 
wine  and  brandy,  fill  with  strawberry  ice  (No.  1388),  turn 
over  upon  your  dish,  fitting  it  to  the  head  and  neck,  form 
the  wings  vrith  sucre  file  (No.  1380),  also  the  tail,  fix 
the  skins  of  some  of  the  cherries  upon  the  tail  to  imitate 
feathers.  Any  one  perfect  in  sugar  will  form  the  tail  open, 
which  will  produce  a  magnificent  eifect ;  have  some  very 
light  jelly  flavoured  vrith  gold  water,  (containing  plenty  of 
gold  leaves,)  chop  it  into  rather  small  pieces,  with  which 
lightly  cover  the  body  of  the  bird ;  the  crown  of  the  head 
and  eyes  must  be  well  imitated  with  sucre  fil^,  a  small 
black  currant  imitating  the  balls  of  the  eyes,  garnish  round 
tastefully  with  croutons  of  the  above  jelly  and  serve. 

No.  1312.  Faisans  en  surprise  fflace  au  ChocokU. 
Make  a  sponge-cake  (No.  1869)  of  twenty  eggs,  which 


SECOND  COURSE.  559 

bake  in  two  separate  oval  moulds;  when  cold  cut  them 
into  the  shape  of  two  pheasants  trassed  as  for  roasting, 
empty  each  one  as  before,  putting  the  pieces  again  in  to 
keep  them  in  shape,  make  the  legs  and  pinions  of  the  wings 
with  pate  d'office  (No.  1137),  mask  them  over  with  cho- 
colate iceing  (No.  1374),  imitating  as  near  as  possible  the 
colour  of  roasted  pheasants,  making  the  legs  darker  than 
the  body,  imitate  larding  upon  the  breast  with  some  blanched 
sweet  almonds  cut  into  thin  strips  of  about  equal  sizes ; 
when  dry  and  ready  to  serve  line  the  interiors  with  currant 
jelly,  and  fill  with  a  creme  glacee  au  chocolat  (No.  1383), 
or  au  cafe  Moka  (No.  1882),  turn  them  over  upon  your 
dish  and  garnish  with  some  jelly  (No.  1225),  chopped  and 
in  croutons  round ;  white  strawberries  and  pieces  of  apples 
prepared  as  for  the  chartreuse  de  pommes  (No.  1272),  and 
soaked  in  brandy,  may  be  served  with  the  ice  in  the  interior. 

No.  1313.  Maniveau  de  Chawpu/now  glace  en  surprise. 

Make  a  basket  of  pate  d'office  (No.  1137),  which  is  done 
by  rolling  out  a  piece  of  the  paste  to  three  quarters  of  an 
inch  in  thickness,  with  length  and  breadth  corresponding 
to  the  size  of  your  dish,  place  it  in  a  baking-sheet,  put  it 
in  a  moderate  oven,  and  when  about  half  baked  cut  an 
odd  number  of  holes  all  round  near  to  the  edge  with  a  long 
vegetable  cutter  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  then  form 
a  number  of  pegs  of  the  same  paste  to  fit  into  the  holes 
when  baked,  and  all  of  equal  lengths,  roll  out  a  number 
of  cords  of  the  same  paste  as  long  as  possible  and  the 
thickness  of  blanched  macaroni,  which  plait  round  the 
P^Ss>  going  in  and  out  one  upon  the  other  until  you 
have  reached  the  top  and  formed  a  rustic  basket,  let  it 
stand  some  time  to  get  diy,  then  bake  it  in  a  moderate 
oven;  when  done  and  cold  glaze  it  over  with  some  red 
currant  jelly,  dress  a  pineapple   ice  (No.  1384)  in  the 


560  RKMOVCS. 

centre  in  pyramid,  which  cover  all  over  with  mushrooms  of 
meringues  (No.  1222),  building  them  in  clusters  as  high 
as  possible ;  garnish  round  withagelee  au  rfaum  (No.  1231) 
chopped  and  in  croutons,  and  serve. 

No.  1314.  liirban  de  Cande  ylace  a  F Ananas. 

Make  a  pound  of  puff  paste  into  oonde  as  directed 
(No.  1183),  make  a  thin  border  of  any  kind  of  marmalade 
upon  a  silver  dish,  on  which  dress  the  conde  in  turban, 
that  is,  standing  upon  end,  one  resting  upon  the  other, 
dress  a  pineapple  cream  ice  (No.  1384)  in  the  centre  in 
pyramid,  garnish  round  with  orange  jelly  in  the  skins  of 
the  oranges  (No.  1237) ;  cut  in  quarters  and  serve. 

No.  1315.  Bwnbe  demi  glace  a  la  Mogador. 

Make  a  good  vanilla  ice  as  directed  (No.  1381),  well 
flavoured  with  maresquino,  have  a  large  round  pewter  ice- 
mould  which  opens  in  two  halves,  partly  fill  each  half, 
leaving  a  hollow  in  the  centre  of  each,  which  fill  with  all 
kinds  of  small  fruits,  grapes,  strawberries,  currants,  Smyrna 
raisins,  &c.,  soaked  in  maresquino,  close  the  mould,  (having 
it  sufficiently  filled  to  form  a  ball  when  turned  out,)  and 
buiy  it  in  ice  and  salt,  then  make  a  thin  ornamented  border 
of  pate  d'office  (No.  1137)  an  inch  in  height,  which  fix 
upon  a  silver  dish  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven,  place  it 
somewhere  for  the  dish  to  get  cold ;  when  ready  to  serve, 
dip  the  mould  into  lukewarm  water,  and  turn  the  ice 
quickly  out  in  the  centre  of  your  dish,  you  have  previ- 
ously prepared  some  finely-spun  sugar  (sucre  file,  No.  1380), 
with  which  form  a  fusee,  stick  it  in  the  top  of  the  ice, 
twisting  it  round,  bringing  the  other  end  near  the  edge  of 
the  dish,  pour  half  a  pint  of  brandy  in  your  dish  outside 
of  the  border  of  paste,  which  set  on  fire  at  the  moment 
of  going  to  table ;  the  fire  will  require  to  bum  the  sugar, 


SECOND  COURSE.  501 

which  will  give  it  quite  the  appearance  of  a  fusee ;  it  would, 
however,  be  better  that  the  brandy  should  not  be  set  on 
fire  until  it  reached  the  dining-room. 

No.  1316.   Cerito's  Sultane  Bylphe  a  la  Fille  de  VOrage. 

Procure  a  half  oval-pointed  mould  about  fifteen  inches 
in  height,  ten  inches  by  eight  in  diameter  at  the  bottom, 
and  the  size  of  a  five-shilling  piece  at  the  top,  which  bury 
to  the  rim  in  ice  with  which  you  have  mixed  plenty 
of  salt,  line  the  interior  with  a  sheet  of  white  paper, 
laying  it  in  closely  to  fit  the  mould,  have  ready  a  pint  of 
cream  mixed  rather  stiffly,  with  which  you  have  mixed  a 
meringue  mixture  of  three  eggs,  as  for  the  biscuit  glace 
(No.  1318),  spread  it  all  over  the  interior  of  the  mould  to 
about  an  inch  in  thickness,  place  a  cover  over  the  mould 
made  to  fit  tight,  over  which  place  some  ice,  and  leave  it 
one  hour,  when  it  will  be  quite  frozen,  take  off  the  Hd, 
have  ready  a  nice  cherry  or  strawberry  cream  ice  (No.  1388), 
place  a  little  at  the  bottom  of  the  mould,  upon  which  lay 
a  few  fresh  strawberries,  then  more  ice,  proceeding  thus 
until  quite  full,  place  the  cover  again  over,  fixing  it  tight, 
bury  it  in  ice  and  salt,  and  leave  it  an  hour,  or  till  wanted, 
when  dip  it  into  very  lukewarm  water,  turn  it  out  upon 
your  dish,  take  off  the  paper,  have  ready  a  silver  atelette  (see 
atelette  of  fruits  in  the  Plate),  upon  which  you  have  placed 
some  fine  fresh  fruit,  that  is,  a  peach  with  a  bunch  of  fine 
black  grapes  resting  over,  and  a  few  red  currants  or  straw- 
berries beneath,  which  stick  into  the  top,  have  ready  some 
finely-spun  sugar  (sucre  file.  No.  1380),  which  twine  round 
Ughtly  like  rolls  of  gauze  (see  design),  not,  however,  covering 
the  whole  of  it,  and  at  the  moment  of  serving  lay  a  fine 
bunch  of  black  grapes  upon  each  side  on  vine-leaves ;  have 
some  very  Ught  gelee  de  Dantzic  (No.  1226)  chopped  finely, 
with  which  garnish  round,  sprinkling  some  over  the  grapes^ 

36 


502  RKBfOVES. 

but  not  too  heavy,  aud  serve  as  quickly  as  possible.  As 
soon  as  it  is  turned  out  of  the  mould  you  had  better  set 
the  dish  upon  the  ice  and  salt  you  took  it  from  (pouring 
off  all  the  water)  whilst  ornamenting,  and  it  would  be 
better  to  make  a  border  of  pate  d'office  upon  your  dish  as 
m  the  last,  but  smaller,  to  prevent  it  sliding  about  when 
carried  to  table,  which  would  upset  the  garniture. 

No.  1317.   Gateau  glace  a  VEloise. 

Bury  a  mould  in  ice  as  in  the  last,  then  whip  a  quart  of 
double  cream  very  stiff,  to  which  add  a  very  little  powdered 
sugar  and  two  glasses  of  noyeau,  put  it  in  a  freezing-pot, 
and  when  about  three  parts  frozen  line  the  mould  as  in  the 
last,  make  a  custard  with  eight  yolks  of  eggs  as  for  vanilla 
ice  (No.  1381),  to  which  add  a  little  clarified  isinglass 
(No.  1372),  stir  it  upon  the  ice,  and  when  becoming 
thickish  add  two  glasses  of  noyeau,  half  a  pint  of  whipped 
cream,  and  half  a  pound  of  cherries,  stoned,  and  passed  in 
sugar  as  directed  (No.  1144),  only  dry  well  before  adding 
them  to  the  custard,  which  must  be  kept  as  white  as  possi- 
ble, place  it  in  the  centre  of  your  mould,  which  cover  up 
and  bury  in  ice  until  wanted ;  when  ready,  dip  the  mould 
in  lukewarm  water,  turn  it  out  upon  your  dish,  stick  a  few 
fine  cherries  here  and  there  over  it,  prepare  another  custard 
of  four  yolks  of  eggs,  which  pour  all  over  and  serve.  The 
garnishing  of  these  dishes  must  be  effected  very  quickly,  as 
they  require  to  be  served  the  moment  they  are  turned  out. 

No.  1318.  Biscuit  Momseux  glace^  en  caisse. 

Make  a  custard  of  six  yolks  of  eggs  as  directed  for 
creme  au  maresquin  (No.  1251),  but  omitting  three  parts 
of  the  sugar;  put  into  your  fireezing-pot,  and  when  half 
frozen  have  ready  the  following  preparation :  boil  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  sugar  au  casse  (No.  1379),  have  ready  five 


SECOND  COURSE.  563 

whites  of  eggs  whipped  very  stiff,  with  which  mix  the  sugar 
by  degrees ;  when  quite  cold  mix  with  the  custard,  adding 
half  a  pint  of  whipped  cream  and  three  glasses  of  any 
white  Uqueur,  freeze  the  whole  together,  keeping  the  pot 
twisted  until  you  have  obtained  a  good  consistency ;  have 
ready  a  number  of  small  round  paper  cases,*  place  a  band 
of  paper  round  each,  half  an  inch  above  the  top,  and  fill 
with  the  above  preparation ;  place  them  in  a  flat  tin  box, 
sprinkle  ratafia  cnimbs  upon  the  top  ef  each,  place  the  lid 
upon  the  box,  which  must  close  very  tight,  and  bury  it  in 
ice  aqd  salt  for  six  hours ;  when  ready  to  serve,  take  them 
out  of  the  box,  detach  the  bands  of  paper  from  them,  dress 
upon  a  napkin,  and  serve.  They  will  have  every  appear- 
ance of  having  just  left  the  oven. 

No.  1819.  Sotfffle  glace  au  CuTcu}oa, 

Proceed  exactly  as  in  the  last,  only  using  cura^oa  instead 
of  a  white  liqueur ;  place  it  in  a  middling-sized  silver  souffle- 
dish,  surround  it  with  a  band  of  paper,  sprinkle  crushed 
ratafias  over  the  top,  place  it  in  the  box,  which  cover  and 
bury  in  ice,  and  salt  eight  hours ;  when  ready  to  serve  take 
off  the  band  of  paper,  and  dress  it  upon  a  napkin  on  a 
silver  dish. 

No.  1320.  Pouding  Souffle  glace  a  la  Mephistopheles. 

Proceed  precisely  as  in  the  last,  place  in  a  dish  of  the 
same  description,  and  whilst  buried  in  ice  make  a  cover 
firom  a  meringue  mixture  (No.  1218)  of  four  yolks  of  eggs, 
very  firm,  a  large  spoonful  of  which  place  upon  a  sheet  of 
paper,  forming  it  round,  three  inches  in  diameter,  and  the 
remainder  in  a  paper  comet  or  horn,  cut  off  the  point  of 
one,  leaving  a  point  the  size  of  a  sixpenny-piece,  with  which 

*  These  round  paper  cases  are  to  be  procured  at  Temple's,  Whitcomb  street, 
Bolgrave  square. 


564  REMOVES. 

work  a  spiral  line  round  the  meringue  until  you  Lave 
formed  a  cover  large  enough  for  the  souffle-case,  sift  sugar 
over  it,  and  bake  in  a  very  slow  oven ;  when  done  turn  it 
gently  over  in  your  hand,  take  off  the  paper,  empty  the 
interior  lightly,  and  place  it  to  dry  in  a  very  slow  oven  (it 
might  be  made  the  day  before) ;  make  a  border  of  pate 
d'office  upon  a  silver  dish  as  for  the  bombe  glace  (No.  1315), 
bake  in  a  warm  oven ;  when  ready  to  serve  take  the  souffle 
from  the  ice,  take  off  the  paper,  stand  it  in  a  dish  of  ice 
and  salt  to  reach  the  rim  of  the  souffle-case ;  place  on  the 
cover,  which  must  be  quite  cold  and  crisp,  and  place  it  in 
the  oven  until  the  meringue  cover  is  warm,  when  take  it 
out,  stand  it  in  the  centre  of  your  dish,  poiu:  half  a  pint  of 
brandy  upon  the  dish  outside  of  the  border  of  paste,  which 
set  on  fire  upon  its  going  into  the  dining-room. 

No.  1321.  Brioche. 

Put  four  pounds  of  flour  upon  a  marble  slab,  one  pound 
of  which  place  upon  one  side,  with  an  ounce  of  German 
yeast  dissolved  in  a  giU  of  warm  water  in  the  centre,  mix 
the  yeast  well  with  your  fingers,  add  a  little  more  water, 
and  mix  the  flour  into  a  stiffish  but  deUcate  paste,  which 
roll  up  in  the  shape  of  a  ball,  cut  an  incision  across  it  with 
a  knife,  place  it  in  a  basin  well  floured  and  put  it  into  a 
warmish  place  for  ten  minutes  or  longer,  untill  becoming 
very  light,  make  a  large  hole  in  the  centre  of  the  remainder 
of  the  flour,  in  which  put  half  an  ounce  of  salt,  half  a  gill 
of  water,  two  pounds  and  a  half  of  fresh  butter,  and  sixteen 
eggs,  mix  the  eggs  and  butter  well  together,  and  work  in 
the  flour  by  degrees,  if  too  stiff  add  more  eggs,  the  paste 
must  be  kept  rather  softish,  press  it  out  with  your  hands 
by  degrees,  lay  the  leaven  upon  it,  which  spread  over, 
bring  the  ends  over  with  your  knife,  press  it  out  again  and 
fold  over  until  well  mixed,  sprinkle  some  flour  upon  a  clean 


SECOND  COURSE.  56B 

cloth,  fold  the  paste  in  it  and  let  remain  all  night ;  when 
ready  to  use  throw  some  flour  upon  your  pastry  slab,  tiu*n 
your  paste  out  upon  it  and  work  it  up  together  with  your 
hands,  then  cut  a  piece,  which  mould  into  a  ball  with  the 
hands,  place  it  upon  a  piece  of  buttered  paper  on  a  bakuig- 
sheet,  make  an  impression  with  your  hand  in  the  centre, 
mould  another  ball  of  the  paste  two  thirds  the  size  of  the 
former,  wet  the  former  ball  with  a  little  water,  fix  the  other 
upon  it,  press  gently,  egg  over  with  a  paste-brush,  make  a 
few  incisions  round  with  a  knife,  and  put  it  in  a  moderate 
oven,  (it  will  require  about  two  hours  baking,  to  try  when 
done  nm  a  thin  wooden  skewer  into  it,  if  done  it  will  come 
out  perfectly  dry,)  bake  of  a  nice  gold  colour.  Many  small 
cakes,  rissoles,  &c.,  are  made  from  this  paste.  By  butter- 
ing a  middle-sized  stewpan,  putting  a  band  of  paper  fom* 
inches  in  height  round,  and  baking  the  paste  in  it,  it  will 
of  itself  make  a  remove,  but  of  coiu^e  requiring  longer 
baking. 

No.  1322.  Baba, 

This  cake  is  made  of  the  same  description  of  paste  as 
the  last,  but  using  six  more  eggs,  as  it  requires  to  be 
softer,  and  working  lightly  with  yoiu*  hand  about  ten  mi- 
nutes before  adding  the  leaven,  to  which  add  a  tca.spoonful 
of  powdered  saffron ;  you  have  also  picked  and  cleaned  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  Smyrna  raisins,  half  a  pound  of 
Malaga,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  currants,  and  a  little 
candied  orange,  lemon-peel,  and  citron,  cut  into  thin  slices, 
soak  the  whole  in  half  a  pint  of  Madeira  wine  and  three 
glasses  of  brandy  or  iTim,  and  mix  with  the  paste,  working 
together  lightly  with  the  hands,  have  buttered  a  large 
sponge-cake  mould,  or  stewpan,  place  a  band  of  paper 
three  inches  in  height  round  the  rim,  put  it  into  a  warm 
place  for  two  or  three  hoiu^,  or  imtil  raised  nearly  to  the 


5  GO  REMOVES. 

top  of  the  mould,  stand  it  upon  a  trivet  in  a  warmish  oven, 
and  bake  about  three  hours,  ascertaining  when  done  with 
a  skewer,  as  in  the  last ;  your  paste  must  not  be  made  too 
thin,  or  all  the  fruit  would  fall  to  the  bottom  and  spoil  its 
appearance.  Take  off  the  band  of  paper,  turn  the  baba 
over  upon  a  hair  sieve,  and  serve  either  hot  or  cold.  Pre- 
viously to  mixing  the  fruit  with  the  paste  you  may  line  the 
interior  of  the  mould  very  thinly  with  some  of  it,  mix  the 
fruit  with  the  remainder  and  fill,  this  process  will  prevent 
the  cake  sticking  to  the  mould,  as  the  fruit  will  sometimes 
cause  it  to  do,  but  gives  rather  too  much  the  appearance  of 
brioche  when  on  the  table. 

No.  1323.  Brioche  an  Fromage, 

Make  the  paste  as  directed  (No.  1321),  but  rather  softer, 
and  when  ready  for  use  mix  in  a  pound  of  Gruyere  cheese 
cut  into  small  dice,  with  half  a  pound  of  grated  Parmesan 
and  a  saltspoonful  of  cayenne  pepper,  mould  it  as  for  the 
brioche,  put  it  into  a  buttered  stewpan  as  there  directed, 
egg  lightly,  place  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  bake  it  about 
two  hours  of  a  fine  gold  colour,  (but  try  whether  done  or 
not  as  before,)  and  serve  very  hot.  The  same  paste  with 
cheese  may  likewise  be  served  in  small  cakes,  making  fifteen 
or  sixteen  from  the  same  quantity  of  paste,  or  cutting  up  a 
large  one  with  different  shape-cutters  into  the  same  number 
of  pieces,  and  placing  them  in  a  hot  oven  upon  a  baking- 
sheet  (when  the  first  course  comes  off  the  table)  until  very 
hot  and  becoming  rather  brown,  dress  them  upon  a  napkin 
on  your  dish,  and  send  very  hot  to  table,  with  another  njip- 
kin  over  them,  which  should  not  be  removed  until  placed 
upon  the  table. 

No.  1324.  Brioche  frite  au  Fin  de  Madere. 
Make  a  brioche  as  directed  (No.  1321),  which  when  cold 


SECOND  COURSE.  507 

cut  into  pieces  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness^  and  of  the 
shape  and  size  of  small  fillets  of  fowl,  have  ready  four  yolks 
of  eggs  in  a  dish,  with  which  you  have  mixed  a  gill  of 
good  cream,  have  also  clarified  half  a  pound  of  fresh  butter, 
a  quarter  of  which  put  into  a  deep  saute-pan  over  the  fire ; 
when  hot  dip  eight  pieces  of  the  brioche  into  the  eggs  and 
cream  quickly,  and  fry  them  in  the  saute-pan  of  a  Ught 
yellow  colour,  proceeding  thus  until  they  are  all  done,  dress 
them  in  crown  upon  your  dish  on  a  border  of  apricot  mar- 
malade, and  place  it  in  the  oven  to  keep  hot,  put  half  a  pound 
of  the  marmalade  in  a'^tewpan,  and  when  melted  add  a  pint 
of  Madeira  wine ;  wheji  boiling  pour  over  the  brioche  and 
serve  very  hot.  The  remainder  of  a  brioche  or  baba  from 
a  preceding  dinner  may  be  used  for  the  above  purpose. 
In  serving  a  brioche  or  baba  to  table  *as  a  remove  I  strongly 
recommend  the  above  method,  as  very  few,  even  after  a 
sumptuous  dinner,  could  resist  the  temptations  of  this  deli- 
cious dish,  so  well  blended  with  the  apricot  and  Madeira, 
whilst  brioche  or  baba  served  entire  cannot  invigorate  the 
appetite,  and  is  not,  in  my  opinion,  exactly  the  kind  of 
food  to  suit  an  already  nearly  satisfied  stomach.  They  are, 
however,  excellent  for  breakfasts,  luncheons,  and  ball  sup- 
pers, where  every  person  composes  then-  meal  according  to 
their  fancy. 

No.  1325.  Nougat  aux  Fraises, 

Blanch  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds  in 
boiling  water,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  pistachios,  sepa- 
rate, take  off"  the  skins  and  cut  each  almond  into  five  or 
six  fillets,  and  the  pistachios  in  two,  place  them  upon  a 
sheet  of  paper  and  dry  in  a  warm  oven  until  the  almonds 
become  a  light  straw  colour,  but  taking  the  pistachios  out 
earlier,  then  put  a  pound  of  sifted  sugar  into  a  copper  pan 
and  stir  it  over  the  fire  with  a  wooden  spoon  until  melted. 


568  REMOVES. 

then  throw  in  your  almcmds,  (which  must  be  hot,)  and  stir 
until  weU  mixed,  taking  it  off  the  fire,  you  have  previously 
sUghUy  oiled  a  large  Savoy-cake  mould,  put  in  part  of  the 
mixture,  which  press  to  the  sides  with  a  lemon,  then  the 
remainder  in  small  pieces,  pressing  the  whole  to  the  sides, 
forming  it  into  one  piece  the  thickness  of  a  five-shilling 
piece,  and  when  cold  turn  it  out  from  the  shape  upon  a 
dish,  whip  a  quart  of  cream  very  stiff*,  which  dress  upon 
the  dish  you  intend  serving  the  nougat  on,  in  pyramid, 
place  some  very  fine  strawberries  upon  it  and  the  nougat 
over,  have  a  little  sugar  boiled  to  the  seventh  degree 
(No.  1879),  have  also  a  few  very  fine  strawberries,  with  the 
stalks  on,  as  the  green  is  an  improvement,  dip  the  stalks  of 
the  strawberries  into  the  sugar,  place  one  upon  the  top  and 
the  others  all  over,  at  the  distance  of  two  inches  apart, 
fixing  them  in  a  drooping  position,  it  is  then  ready  to  serve. 
The  above  makes  a  handsome  remove,  the  pistachios, 
almonds,  and  strawberries  correcting  the  taste  of  the  melted 
sugar ;  if  not  convenient,  the  pistachios  may  be  omitted, 
but  adding  more  almonds  in  proportion.  The  sugar  may 
be  flavoured  with  lemon  vanilla  or  candied  orange-flowers. 

No.  1326.   Croqdce  en  bouche. 

Make  some  paste  as  directed  for  pate  a  choux  (No.  1194), 
not,  however,  using  so  much  butter,  and  adding  a  little 
more  flour,  drying  it  well  in  the  stewpan,  and  adding  suffi- 
cient eggs  to  make  .it  of  the  same  consistency  as  there 
directed,  flavouring  with  sugar  upon  which  you  have  rubbed 
the  rind  of  a  lemon,  form  about  a  hundred  and  fifty  small 
balls  the  size  of  marbles,  upon  two  baking-sheets,  egg  them 
over  and  bake  very  dry  in  a  moderate  oven  of  a  light  gold 
colour,  then  have  some  sugar  boiled  to  the  seventh  degree 
(No.  1379),  oil  a  large  Savoy-cake  mould  lightly,  place  one 
of  the  petits  choux  upon  a  trussing-needle  dip  it  in  the 


SECOND  COUHSE.  569 

sugar,  fix  it  at  the  bottom  in  the  centFC  of  your  mould, 
then  dip  in  the  remainder  one  after  the  other,  placing  them 
romid  the  interior  of  the  mould,  one  adhering  to  the  other 
until  the  mould  is  filled  up,  (to  facilitate  the  building  of 
them  have  your  sugar  in  two  different  sugar-pans,  being 
careful  that  it  does  not  grain,  for  if  the  sugar  is  not  quite 
clear  and  crisp  it  would  stick  to  the  mould,  and  your  croque 
en  bouche  tumble  to  pieces,)  when  quite  cold  try  gently 
with  both  hands  to  move  it,  just  enough  to  detach  it,  turn 
it  out  carefully  upon  a  napkin,  and  serve  with  whipped 
cream  flavoured  with  vanilla  sugar  under  it.  The  above 
when  well  made  makes  a  pretty  remove,  but  scarcely  fit 
to  eat,  it  being  a  mass  of  sugar  without  any  relief  to 
the  palate.  Although  not  a  great  admirer  of  nougat,  the 
almonds  certainly  form  a  relief;  a  croque  en  bouche  of 
oranges  or  any  other  fruit  is  a  little  more  commendable, 
but  is  very  difficult  to  succeed  with,  and  do  not  in  reality 
repay  in  quality  the  trouble  they  give ;  such  dishes,  in  my 
opinion,  being  fit  only  for  children  who  are  fond  of  sugar- 
plums. 

No.  1327.  Meringue  Pagodatique  a  la  Chinoiae. 

Have  ready  prepared  a  meringue  mixture  of  fifteen  eggs 
(No.  1218),  with  which  make  six  rings  upon  paper,  (lay- 
ing them  out  with  a  paper  comet  or  funnel,  in  the  bottom 
of  which  you  have  cut  a  hole  of  the  circumference  of  a 
shUling,)  the  three  largest  to  be  eight  inches  in  diameter,  the 
next  one  six  and  a  half  inches,  the  next  five,  and  the  smallest 
three  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter,  and  the  whole  of  them 
an  inch  in  thickness,  have  some  of  the  preparation  in  a 
small  paper  comet  with  a  hole  at  the  bottom  of  the  size  of 
a  pea,  with  which  ornament  the  rings,  laying  small  fillets  of 
it  over  them,  then  with  the  large  paper  cornet  lay  out  four 
other  pieces  of  an  octagonal  form,  (to  imitate  the  top  of  a 


570  R£MOVS8. 

Chinese  pagoda,  which  may  easily  be  accomplished  if  the 
mixtw^  is  firm,  as  it  may  then  be  laid  out  into  any  shape 
desired,)  leaving  a  ring  in  the  centre,  making  the  largest 
rather  lai^r  than  the  largest  ring,  diminishing  the  size  in 
proportion  to  the  other  rings,  and  piping  them  according  to 
fancy  with  the  smaller  paper  comet  with  which  also  form 
sixteen  little  bells  by  pressing  an  upright  dot  from  it  upon 
paper,  and  pulling  the  comet  up  quickly,  making  the  four 
largest  half  an  inch  in  height  and  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in 
width,  and  making  each  four  a  size  smaller  in  proportion  ; 
bake  the  whole  of  the  preparations  (first  sifting  sugar  over 
them)  upon  boards  in  a  very  slow  oven,  scarcely  allowing 
them  to  obtain  any  colour ;  when  baked  and  crisp  place 
them  in  a  hot  closet  until  perfectly  dry,  when  take  them 
out,  wet  the  back  of  the  papers  lightly  with  a  paste-brush 
and  carefully  detach  the  meringues  from  them,  which  again 
put  into  the  hot  closet  until  quite  crisp,  then  fix  the  bells, 
the  largest  upon  the  largest  octagonal  piece  at  the  comers, 
and  the  smaller  upon  the  smaller  pieces,  by  running  a 
needle  with  a  piece  of  white  silk  through  them,  and  fasten- 
ing them  with  a  little  boiled  sugar  or  isinglass  when  upon 
the  point  of  setting ;  when  ready  to  serve  place  the  three 
largest  rings  upon  your  dish,  filling  the  middle  with  some 
whipped  cream  flavoured  with  vanilla  sugar  (No.  1377),  then 
the  largest  octagonal  piece,  which  also  fill  with  cream,  then 
the  next  sized  ring,  and  so  on  until  you  have  built  the  whole 
up,  finishing  with  the  smallest  octagonal  at  the  top,  you 
have  also  made  and  baked  a  pointed  meringue  of  the  shape 
of  half  a  lemon,  to  fit  into  the  hole  at  the  top,  having  it 
decorated  to  correspond,  which  place  upon  the  top  and 
serve  immediately,  or  it  would  become  damp,  and  eat 
f  ouglush  instead  of  crisp. 


SECOND  OOURSE.  571 

No.  1828.  Merinffue  a  la  Farisienne. 

Prepare  a  meringue  mixture  of  ten  whites  of  eggs,  with 
which  make  ten  large  rings,  each  about  eight  inches  in 
diameter,  and  half  an  inch  in  thickness,  laying  them  out  upon 
paper ;  pipe  them  in  stripes  with  the  paper  comet,  and  sift 
sugar  over,  let  them  remain  ten  minutes,  then  shake  off  the 
superfluous  sugar,  lay  them  upon  boards,  and  place  them 
in  a  slow  oven  to  bake  >  when  of  a  light  brown  colour  and 
quite  set,  put  them  into  a  hot  closet  to  dry,  then  wet  the 
back  of  the  papers  lightly  with  a  paste-brush,  from  which 
carefully  detach  the  rings,  place  them  again  in  the  hot 
closet  to  dry,  and  when,  ready  to  serve  pipe  them  with  bright 
red  currant  jelly  between  the  stripes  of  meringue,  dish  them 
one  upon  the  other,  filling  them  with  whipped  cream,  and 
serve  as  quickly  as  possible  afterwards,  with  a  few  straw- 
berries upon  the  top.  A  meringue  mixture  may  also  be 
formed  into  various  other  shapes,  according  to  fancy. 

No.  1329.  Nesaelrode  Pudding. 

Blanch  four  dozen  chestnuts  in  boiling  water,  skin  and 
place  them  in  the  screen,  when  dry  take  them  out,  and 
when  cold  put  them  into  a  mortar  with  one  pound  of  sugar, 
and  half  a  stick  of  vanilla,  pound  the  whole  well  together, 
and  sift  it  through  a  fine  wire  sieve,  put  it  into  a  stewpan 
with  the  yolks  of  twelve  eggs,  beat  them  well  together ;  in 
another  stewpan  have  a  quart  of  milk,  when  boiling  pour 
it  over  the  other  ingredients,  mixing  well,  and  stir  over  a 
sharp  fire  until  it  begins  to  thicken  and  adheres  to  the  back 
of  the  spoon,  when  lay  a  tammie  upon  a  large  dish,  pour 
the  mixture  in  and  rub  it  through  with  two  wooden  spoons ; 
when  cold  place  it  in  a  freezing-pot  and  freeze  as  directed 
(No.  1381),  when  frozen  have  a  large  high  ice-mould, 
which  closes  hermetically,  have  also  two  ounces  of  currants. 


572  RBMOVES. 

and  two  ouiioes  of  Smyrna  raisins,  soaked  in  four  glasses  of 
maresquino  from  the  previous  daj^  with  four  ounces  of 
candied  citron  cut  in  dice,  put  them  into  the  freezing-pot 
with  a  pint  of  whipped  cream  and  half  the  meringue  pre- 
paration directed  in  (No.  1818) ;  freeze  the  whole  well 
together  and  fill  your  mould,  which  bury  in  ice  and  salt 
until  ready  to  serve,  when  dip  it  into  lukewarm  water,  and 
tium  it  out  upon  your  dish. 

No.  1330.  Ponding  de  CaMnet  glace. 

Have  ready  prepared,  and  rather  stale,  a  sponge-cake  as 
directed  (No.  1369),  which  cut  into  slices  half  an  inch  in 
thickness,  and  rather  smaller  than  the  mould  you  intend 
making  the  pudding  in,  soak  them  well  with  noyeau  brandy, 
then  lay  some  preserved  dry  cherries  at  the  bottom  of  the 
mould,  with  a  few  whole  ratafias,  lay  one  of  the  slices  over, 
then  more  cherries  and  ratafias,  proceeding  thus  until  the 
mould  is  three  parts  full ;  then  have  ready  a  quart  of  the 
custard,  as  prepared  for  creme  au  maresquin  (No.  1251), 
omitting  half  the  quantity  of  isinglasss,  pour  it  lukewarm 
into  your  mould,  which  close  hermetically  and  bury  in  ice 
and  salt,  where  let  it  remain  at  least  two  hours ;  when  ready 
to  serve  dip  it  in  lukewarm  water,  and  turn  it  out  upon 
your  dish ;  you  have  made  about  half  a  pint  of  custard, 
which  keep  upon  ice,  pour  over  the  pudding  when  ready 
to  serve,  and  sprinkle  a  few  chopped  pistachios  over. 

No.  1331.   Glace  Meringue  aufour. 

Make  a  pineapple  cream  ice  as  directed  (No.  1 384),  and 
when  well  frozen  have  ready  a  plain  oval  ice-mould,  place 
the  cream  in  it,  filling  it  quite  tight,  close  and  bury  it  in 
ice  and  salt  until  five  minutes  before  ready  to  serve,  then 
dip  it  into  lukewarm  water,  and  turn  it  out  upon  yoiur  dish, 
which  bury  up  to  the  rim  in  ice  and  salt  upon  a  baking- 


SECOND    COURSE.  573 

sheet,  have  ready  a  preparation  of  meringue  as  directed  for 
petits  biscuits  glaces,  (No.  1818),  with  which  cover  it  over, 
place  it  in  a  warm  oven  a  minute,  just  setting  the  meringue, 
which  will  blister  and  brown  slightly,  and  serve  immediately. 

No.  1332.  Plombiere, 

Blanch  and  skin  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds, 
with  six  or  eight  bitter  ones,  when  dry  and  cold  place  them 
in  a  mortar  with  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  and 
ten  or  twelve  leaves  of  candied  orange-flowers,  pound  weU, 
sift  through  a  wire  sieve,  and  place  it  in  a  stewpan  with  the 
yolks  of  nine  eggs,  beat  them  well  together,  then  in  another 
stewpan  have  boiling  a  pint  and  a  half  of  milk,  which  pour 
over  the  other  ingredients  by  degrees,  keeping  it  stirred, 
place  it  upon  the  fire,  stirring  until  it  thickens  and  adheres 
to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  rub  it  through  a  tammie,  add  two 
glasses  of  noyeau ;  when  cold  put  it  into  your  freezing-pot 
to  freeze  (see  No.  1381),  «id  when  half  frozen  add  a  pint 
and  a  half  of  whipped  cream,  when  quite  frozen  fill  a  mould, 
and  serve  as  for  the  Nesselrode  pudding. 

No.  1333.  JPlombierea  Mousseuses  a  T  Orange, 

Prepare  about  three  parts  of  the  quantity  of  plombiere 
ice  as  directed  in  the  last,  to  which,  when  half  frozen,  add 
a  pint  and  a  half  of  whipped  orange  jelly  (No.  1236)  just 
upon  the  point  of  setting,  beat  the  whole  well  together  with 
the  spatula,  working  it  until  well  frozen  \  have  a  dozen  and 
a  half  of  oranges,  peeled,  quartered,  and  passed  in  sugar 
as  directed  for  vol-au-vent  (No.  1147),  and  place  them  in 
a  basin  upon  ice ;  when  ready  to  serve  make  a  border  of  pa- 
tisserie d'amande  (No.  1183)  upon  your  dish,  in  the  centre 
of  which  put  a  Uttle  of  the  plombiere,  then  a  layer  of 
oranges,  then  plombiere  and  oranges  again,  proceeding 
thus  and  finishing  in  pyramid ;  garnish  roimd  with  a  Uttle 


574  RFM0VK8. 

of  the  orange  jelly  (clear),  chopped  and  in  croutons,  and 
aerve. 

No.  1334.  Gateaux  de  Fruit  a  la  Gelee  dC  Orange  mousseu^e. 

Make  a  chartreuse  of  fruit  as  directed  (No.  1269)  in  a 
large  oval  mould,  having  a  quantity  of  fruit  left ;  have 
also  about  a  quart  of  orange  jelly  (No.  1286),  which  place 
upon  ice  in  a  bowl,  whisking  it  until  upon  the  point  of  set- 
ting, when  place  a  layer  of  it  in  the  chartreuse,  then  a 
layer  of  the  fruit,  the  jelly,  and  so  on  until  quite  filled, 
place  it  upon  ice,  and  when  set  and  ready  to  serve  dip  in 
lukewarm  water,  and  turn  it  out  upon  your  dish;  serve 
garnished  round  with  orange  jelly  in  the  skins  of  the 
oranges  (No.  1237),  cut  in  quarters  after  it  has  set. 

No.  1335.  Gateau  Sot^  a  V  Essence  de  Ponche. 

Break  ten  eggs,  put  the  whites  in  a  copper  bowl,  and  the 
yolks  in  a  basin,  with  four  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered 
sugar,  four  of  crushed  ratafias,  two  of  potato  flour,  a  little 
salt,  and  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  candied  orange-flowers, 
beat  well  together,  whip  the  whites,  which  stir  in  lightly 
with  the  mixture ;  well  butter  and  bread-crumb  the  interior 
of  an  oval  plain  mould,  butter  also  and  bread-crumb  a  band 
of  paper  three  inches  broad,  which  tie  round  at  the  top  of 
the  mould,  pour  in  the  mixture,  and  half  an  hour  before 
ready  to  serve  stand  it  in  a  moderate  oven  (it  will  take 
about  the  above  time  to  bake),  when  done  turn  it  out  upon 
your  dish ;  have  ready  a  custard  of  three  yolks  of  eggs, 
made  as  for  creme  au  maresquin  (No.  1261),  to  which  you 
have  added  two  glasses  of  essence  of  punch,  pour  round  the 
gateau  and  serve. 

The  above  mixture  may  be  baked  in  twelve  small  moulds 
and  dressed  in  pyramid,  but  then  they  would  require  more 
sauce. 


SECOND  COURSE.  575 


OP  LARGE  SOUFFLES  FOR  REMOVES. 

Souffles  when  well-made  are  excellent  removes  for  the 
winter  season,  but  I  generally  strive  to  avoid  them  in  the 
summer,  as  they  are  not,  in  my  opinion,  at  all  suitable  for 
that  season  of  the  year,  for  which  reason  I  have  introduced 
the  new  souffle  glace,  which,  by  pleasing  the  eye,  and 
being  more  refreshing  to  the  palate,  cannot  fail  to  give 
general  satisfaction. 

No.  1386.  Souffle  a  la  Vanille. 

Prepare  a  crust  or  croustade  of  pate  fine  (No.  1136),  or 
water  paste,  by  lining  a  raised  pie-mould  with  it,  filling 
with  bread-crumbs,  and  finishing  the  edges  as  for  a  raised 
pie ;  bake  it  (of  a  very  light  brown  colour)  about  an  hour 
in  a  moderate  oven,  when  done  empty  out  all  the  bread- 
crumbs without  taking  it  out  of  the  mould,  then  tie  a  band 
of  buttered  paper  (four  inches  wide)  round  the  top,  and  put 
it  by  until  wanted.  Put  half  a  pound  of  butter  in  a  stew- 
pan,  with  which  mix  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  flour 
without  melting  it,  in  another  stewpan  have  rather  more 
than  a  quart  of  milk,  into  which,  when  boiling,  put  two 
sticks  of  vanilla,  place  a  cover  upon  the  stewpan  and  let  it 
remain  until  half  cold,  then  take  out  the  vanilla,  and  pour 
the  milk  upon  the  butter  and  flour,  stir  over  a  sharp  fire, 
boiling  it  five  minutes,  then  stir  in  quickly  the  yolks  of  ten 
eggs,  and  sweeten  with  half  a  pound  of  sugar ;  when  cold, 
and  an  hour  and  a  quarter  before  you  are  ready  to  serve, 
whip  the  whites  of  the  ten  eggs  very  stiff",  stir  them  in  with 
the  mixture  lightly,  pour  it  into  the  croustade,  and  bake 
about  an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven,  if  going  too  fast,  and 
liable  to  be  done  before  required,  open  the  oven  door,  as  it 


570  REMOVES. 

ought  to  be  served  the  moment  it  is  doue ;  when  ready  to 
serve  take  it  from  the  oven,  detach  the  band  of  paper,  take 
it  from  the  mould,  dress  it  upon  a  napkin  on  a  dish,  and 
serve  inmiediately. 

These  sou£9es  may  be  baked  in  a  silver  souffle-case,  if 
preferred,  they  will  take  considerable  less  time  in  baking, 
but  fall  quicker  after  being  taken  from  the  oven ;  any 
liqueur  or  spirits  even  may  be  introduced  in  souffles  of  this 
description  if  approved  of. 

No.  1337.  Sou0  a  la  Fleur  d' Orange. 

Proceed  exactly  as  in  the  last,  but  infusing  an  ounce  of 
candied  orange-flowers  in  the  milk  instead  of  the  vanilla. 

No.  1338.  Sawff^  OM  Cafe  merge. 

Proceed  as  for  the  souffle  a  la  vanille,  omitting  the  va- 
nilla, and  procuring  two  ounces  of  green  cofiee,  which 
place  in  a  stewpan  over  a  sharp  fire,  keeping  them  moved 
until  of  a  veiy  light  brown  colour,  then  throw  them  into 
the  milk  when  boiling,  cover  over  until  half  cold,  and  finish 
as  before  directed,  passing  the  milk  through  a  sieve. 

No.  1339.  Souffle  a  la  Creme  de  Biz 

Is  made  by  using  ground  rice  instead  of  the  common 
flour,  finishing  the  same,  and  using  any  of  the  flavours  di- 
rected in  the  three  last. 

No.  1340.  Souffle  an  Citron, 

Proceed  as  directed  for  souffle  a  la  vanille,  but  infusing 
the  rind  of  two  lemons,  free  from  pith,  in  the  milk  instead 
of  the  vanilla. 

No.  1341.  Souffle  an  Macaroni. 
Have  half  a  pound  of  macaroni  blanched  as  directed 


SECOND  COURSE.  577 

(No.  130),  lay  it  upon  a  cloth  to  drain,  and  cut  it  into 
small  pieces,  the  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness ;  make  half 
the  preparation  as  directed  for  souffle  a  la  vanille,  but  using 
an  infusion  of  an  ounce  of  bitter  almonds;  when  it  be- 
comes thick  over  the  fire  stir  in  the  macaroni,  and  when 
again  nearly  boiling,  the  yolks  of  ten  eggs,  when  cold  whip 
the  whites,  which  add  to  the  other  ingredients,  and  finish 
as  where  previously  directed. 

No.  1342.  Sovffle  an  Tapioca. 

Put  a  half  a  pound  of  tapioca  in  a  stewpan,  with  three 
pints  of  milk  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter,  and 
when  boiling  add  the  rind  of  two  lemons,  free  from  pith, 
tied  in  a  bunch,  boil  until  the  tapioca  is  rather  stiff  and 
well  done,  then  take  out  the  lemon  and  stir  in  the  yolks  of 
twelve  eggs  very  quickly,  stir  another  minute  over  the  fire 
to  thicken  a  Uttle,  and  put  by  until  cold ;  when  ready,  whip 
the  whites  of  the  eggs  very  stiff,  stir  them  hghtly  with  the 
tapioca,  bake  and  serve  as  for  the  other  description  of 
souffles. 

No.  1343.  Souffle  au  Ithum. 

Break  the  yolks  of  twelve  eggs  in  a  basin,  to  which  add 
half  a  pound  of  sifted  sugar,  beat  well  with  a  wooden  spoon 
until  becoming  quite  thick  and  whitish ;  when  stir  in  two 
glasses  of  rum  and  an  ounce  of  potato  flour ;  whisk  the  whites 
of  the  eggs  very  stiff,  mix  them  gently  with  the  mixture,  put 
it  upon  the  dish  you  intend  serving  it  on,  shaping  in  pyra- 
mid with  a  knife ;  and  a  quarter  of  an  hour  before  serving 
place  it  in  a  moderate  oven,  when  done  pour  a  little  rum 
round,  which  set  on  fire  and  serve  immediately.  Souffles 
au  maresquin,  noyeau,  curafoa,  or  whiskey,  are  made  pre- 
cisely as  the  above,  omitting  the  rum,  adding  two  glasses  of 
one  or  the  other  Uqueurs  instead,  and  serving  without  the 
fire  round  it.  37 


578  REMOVES. 

No.  1344.   Omelette  Soiffiee, 

Proceed  as  described  in  the  last,  but  omitting  the  rum  or 
liqueurs,  and  flavouring  with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  orange- 
flower  water,  or  rubbing  the  rind  of  a  lemon  upon  the 
sugar  previous  to  pounding  and  mixing  (or  vanilla  sugar. 
No.  1377,  might  be  used) ;  place  the  soufSe  upon  the  dish, 
bake  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and  serve.  These  kinds  of 
souffles  are  much  more  simple  in  their  fabrication  than  the 
others,  and  much  quicker  done ;  their  greatest  difficulty  is 
the  whipping  of  the  eggs,  which  must  be  very  stiff;  a  littie 
practice  would,  however,  soon  enable  you  to  manage  them ; 
the  best  method  is  to  put  them  into  a  copper  bowl  with  a 
pinch  of  salt,  and  commence  whipping  very  slowly,  then 
quicker  and  quicker  by  degrees,  until  they  adhere  like 
feathers  to  the  whisk.  These  souffles  may  likewise  be 
baked  in  a  silver  souffle-dish,  by  tying  a  band  of  buttered 
paper  round  to  bake  it,  which  detach  at  the  time  of 
serving. 

No.  1345.   Omelette  Soufflee  a  V Antiquaire. 

Though  the  last-mentioned  article  has  received  the  name 
of  omelette  soufflee,  it  has  no  particular  right  to  the  name ; 
for  as  there  is  no  making  an  omelette  without  ^gs,  so 
is  there  no  making  an  omelette  soufflee  without  an  omelette- 
pan  ;  I  do  not,  therefore,  intend  entirely  to  forsake  the  old- 
fashioned  method.  The  mixture  is  prepared  precisely  as 
the  last,  but  the  appearance  and  flavour  are  very  different, 
being  produced  by  the  different  method  of  cooking  them ; 
put  an  ounce  of  butter  into  a  very  clean  omelette-pan  over 
the  fire,  when  melted,  pour  in  half  the  preparation,  place 
it  over  a  very  brisk  fire  a  few  seconds,  then  twist  it  round 
in  the  pan,  which  give  a  jerk,  tossing  the  omelette  half  way 
over,  stand  it  over  the  fire  again,  give  the  pan  another  jerk, 


SECOND  COUKSE.  579 

tossmg  the  omelette  again  over,  and  turn  it  out  upon  your 
dish,  set  it  in  the  oven  and  proceed  the  same  with  the  re- 
mainder of  the  preparation,  which  when  done  turn  over 
upon  the  other,  leave  it  in  the  oven  about  a  quarter  of  an 
hour,  sprinkle  sugar  over,  salamander  and  serve  very  quickly. 
The  butter  the  souffle  is  fried  in  gives  it  a  superior  flavour 
to  the  last. 

No.  1346.   Omelette  Scmfflee  a  la  Creme. 

Proceed  as  in  the  last,  deducting  two  of  the  whites  of 
eggs,  and  adding  a  gill  of  whipped  cream,  fiy  and  serve  as 
above. 

No.  1347.  Souffle  an  Gingernbre. 

This  is  a  very  excellent  remove  for  a  party  of  gentl^nen, 
make  a  preparation  as  for  souffle  a  la  vaniUe  (No.  1836), 
adding  a  little  syrup,  mixing  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh 
preserved  ginger  with  it^  cut  into  thin  slices,  add  two  more 
whites  of  ^gs  to  the  preparation,  which  bake  in  a  croustade 
as  directed  where  above  referred  to. 

No.  1348.  Souffle  au  Cerises, 

Prepare  a  souffle  mixture  as  befcure,  giving  it  the  flavour 
of  orange-flowers ;  when  the  whites  of  eggs  are  well  mixed, 
add  a  pound  of  cherries  prepared  thus :  procure  them  not 
too  ripe,  take  out  the  stones,  and  put  them  into  a  sugar-pan 
with  half  a  pound  of  sugar,  stew  them  until  surrounded 
with  a  thickish  syrup,  then  turn  them  out  upon  a  sieve  to 
dry,  stir  th^n  into  the  souffle  lightly,  pour  in  your  crous- 
tade, and  bake  it  a  short  time  longer,  as  the  cherries  will 
prevent  the  souffle  rising  so  quickly. 

No.  1349.  Sot^  aujus  d^  Orange  et  au  Zeste  praline. 
Prepare  a  souffle  mixture  as  before,  but  when  you  pour 


580  REMOVES. 

in  the  milk  add  likewise  the  juice  and  pulp  of  eight  oranges, 
having  previously  rubbed  the  rind  of  one  of  them  upon  two 
ounces  of  sugar,  pound  it  fine,  place  it  in  the  hot  closet  to 
dry,  and  add  it  as  extra  sugar  to  the  souffle,  bake  and  serve 
as  before ;  a  gill  of  milk  less  must  be  used  in  the  above  on 
account  of  the  orange-juice,  it  would  otherwise  be  too 
moist. 

No.  1350.  Biscuits  Sonnies  a  la  Creme. 

Put  the  yolks  of  ten  eggs  in  a  basin,  and  the  whites  in  a 
copper  bowl,  add  half  a  pound  of  sugar,  upon  which  you 
have  rubbed  the  rind  of  a  lemon  previous  to  pounding, 
beat  it  well  with  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  then  add  half  a 
pint  of  cream  well  whipped  and  ten  ounces  of  flour ;  stir 
all  together  hghtly,  whip  the  whites  of  the  eggs  very  stiff, 
and  stir  them  into  the  preparation;  have  ready  a  dozen 
and  a  half  of  small  paper  cases,  fill  each  one  three  parts 
full,  and  fifteen  minutes  before  serving  place  them  in  a 
moderate  oven ;  when  done  shake  sugar  over,  dress  in  pyra- 
mid upon  a  napkin,  and  serve. 

No.  1351.  Fondue  au  Parmesan  et  Gray  ere. 

Put  half  a  pound  of  butter  and  three  quarters  of  a  pound 
of  flour  in  a  stewpan,  mix  them  well  together  (without 
melting  the  butter)  with  a  wooden  spoon,  then  add  rather 
more  than  a  quart  of  boiling  milk,  stir  over  the  fire,  boil 
twenty  minutes,  then  add  the  yolks  of  ten  eggs  (stir  in 
well),  a  pound  of  grated  Parmesan,  and  half  a  pound  of 
grated  Gruyere  cheese ;  season  with  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  a  quarter  do.  of  pepper,  and  half  a  saltspoonful  of 
cayenne ;  if  too  thick  add  two  or  three  whole  eggs  to  give 
it  the  consistency  of  a  souffle,  whip  the  ten  whites  of  egg 
firm,  stir  them  gently  into  the  mixture,  have  ready  a  crous- 
tade  prepared  as  for  the  souffle  (No.  1336),  pour  in  the 


SECOND  COURSE.  581 

above  mixture,  and  bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven ;  it  will  re- 
quire half  an  hour  longer  than  the  souffle ;  dish  and  serve 
the  same. 

No.  1352.  Fondue  a  la*Napolitaine, 

Prepare  three  foiuths  of  the  mixture  as  in  the  last,  but 
previous  to  adding  the  whites  of  eggs  stir  in  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  good  macaroni  blanched  as  directed  (No.  130) 
and  cut  into  pieces  an  inch  in  length ;  add  the  whites,  bake, 
and  serve  as  before. 

No.  1353.  Petitea  Fondues  au  Pate  d'ltalie. 

Blanch  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  any  description  of  Italian 
paste  in  boiUng  water  a  few  minutes,  strain  it  upon  a  silk 
sieve  until  a  little  dry,  put  an  ounce  of  butter  and  a  spoon- 
ful of  flour,  mix  well  together,  then  add  half  a  pint  of  boil- 
ing milk ;  stir  over  the  fire  until  thickish,  add  your  paste, 
stir  it  a  few  minutes  longer  over  the  fire,  then  add  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  Stilton  cheese  in  small  lumps,  and  a  quarter 
of  a  poimd  of  grated  Parmesan ;  season  with  a  httle  pepper, 
salt,  and  cayenne,  add  six  yolks  of  eggs,  stir  it  another 
minute  until  the  eggs  are  partially  set,  and  when  cold  whip 
the  whites  very  stift';  mix  them  well  in,  fill  small  paper 
cases  with  it,  bake  a  quarter  of  an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven, 
and  serve  very  hot. 

No.  1354.  Fondue  {simple  method). 

Put  two  ounces  of  Gruyere  and  two  ounces  of  Parmesan 
cheese  (grated)  into  a  basin,  with  a  little  salt,  pepper,  and 
cayenne,  add  the  yolks  of  six  eggs,  with  half  a  pound  ot 
butter  melted  (mix  well),  whip  the  whites  of  the  six  eggs,  stir 
gently  into  the  other  ingredients,  fill  small  paper  cases  with 
it,  bak^  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven, 
dress  upon  a  napkin,  and  serve  very  hot. 


I 


582  REMOVES. 

No.  1355.  Petitea  Fondues  {en  came)  au  Stilton, 

Put  six  ounces  of  butter  and  half  a  pound  of  floor  in  a 
stewpan,  rub  well  together  with  a  wooden  spoon,  then  add 
a  quart  of  warm  milk,  stir  over  the  fire  a  quarter  of  an 
hour,  then  add  the  yolks  c^  eight  eggs,  three  quarters  of  a 
pound  oi  grated  Parmesan,  and  half  a  pound  of  Stilton 
cheese  in  small  dice,  season  rather  highly  with  pepper,  salt, 
and  cayenne,  add  the  white  of  the  eggs  whipped  veiy  stiiBT, 
which  stir  in  lightFy;  have  a  dozen  and  a  half  of  small 
paper  cases,  fill  each  one  three  parts  fuU,  place  them  in  a 
moderate  oven,  bake  about  twenty  minutes;  when  done 
dress  them  upon  a  najddn  on  your  dish,  and  serve  y^rj 
hot. 

No.  1356.  Bamequins. 

Put  a  gill  (^  water  in  a  stewpan,  to  which  add  two 
ounces  of  Gruyere  and  the  same  quantity  of  Parmesan  cheese 
(grated),  two  ounces  oX,  butter,  a  little  cayenne  pepper,  and 
salt  if  required,  set  it  upon  the  fire,  and  when  boiling  stir 
in  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  flour ;  keep  stirring  over  the 
fire  until  the  paste  becomes  dryish  and  the  bottom  of  the 
stewpan  quite  white,  then  add  three  or  four  eggs  by  degrees, 
until  forming  a  paste  like  pate  a  choux  (No.  1194),  butter 
a  baking-sheet  well,  and  lay  the  paste  out  in  pieces  upon  it 
with  a  tablespoon,  making  them  long,  and  half  tl^e  size  of 
the  bowl  of  the  spoon ;  ^g  over,  and  lay  a  small  piece  of 
Gruyere  cheese  upon  each,  put  them  into  the  oven  about 
twenty  minutes  before  they  are  requii'ed ;  bake  them  a  little 
crisp,  and  serve  very  hot,  dressed  in  pyramid  upon  a  napkin. 

No.  1357.  Petita  Bamequins  au  feuilletage. 

Make  half  a  pound  of  paste  (No.  1132),  which  roll  very 
thin,  have  ready  some  grated  Parmesan  and  Gruyere  cheese 


SECOND  COURSE.  583 

mixed,  throw  half  a  handful  over  the  paste,  which  fold  in 
three,  roll  it  out  to  the  same  thickness  again,  cover  again 
with  cheese,  proceeding  thus  until  you  have  used  the  whole 
of  the  cheese  (half  a  pound),  then  cut  them  into  any  shapes 
you  like  with  pastry  cutters,  set  on  a  wet  baking-sheet,  e^ 
them  over,  bake  a  nice  coloiu*  in  a  moderate  oven,  dress  in 
pyramid  upon  a  napkin  on  a  dish,  and  serve  very  hot. 

No.  1358.  Diablotins  au  Gruyere, 

Put  a  gill  of  milk  in  a  stewpan  with  two  ounces  of 
butter,  when  boiling  stir  in  two  spoonfuls  of  flour,  keep 
stirring  over  the  fire  until  the  bottom  of  the  stewpan  is  dry, 
then  add  four  eggs  by  degrees,  half  a  pound  of  Gruyere, 
and  half  a  pound  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese;  mix  well 
in,  season  with  pepper,  salt,  and  cayenne  rather  highly, 
mould  the  paste  into  little  balls  with  the  forefinger  against 
the  side  of  the  stewpan  containing  it,  drop  them  into  very 
hot  lard ;  fry  of  a  nice  light  brown,  dress  in  pyramid  upon 
a  napkin,  and  serve  very  hot. 

No.  1359.   Croquettes  de  Macaroni  au  Frontage. 

Put  two  quarts  of  water,  with  a  little  salt  and  a  small 
piece  of  butter  into  a  stewpan,  and  when  boiling  add  half  a 
pound  of  macaroni,  which  boil  until  tender,  drain  it  upon  a 
sieve,  and  when  cold  cut  it  into  pieces  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
in  length,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  half  a  pint  of 
bechamel  sauce,  a  little  cayenne  pepper,  salt,  and  grated 
nutmeg;  let  simmer  a  few  minutes  until  rather  thick, 
stirring  it  gently  occasionally,  then  add  half  a  pound  of 
grated  Parmesan  and  Gruyere  cheese  (or  good  common 
cheese  may  be  used),  turn  gently  a  few  minutes  longer  over 
the  fire,  take  it  ofi*,  stir  in  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  quickly, 
stu"  another  minute  over  the  fire  to  set  the  eggs,  and  pour 
out  upon  a  dish  until  quite  cold,  then  form  it  into  oUve- 


684  REMOVES. 

shaped  pieces,  rather  larger  than  walnuts,  or  into  pieces  of 
the  shape  of  pears,  or  into  croquettes  two  inches  long,  the 
thickness  of  your  finger ;  have  three  eggs  well  beaten  upon 
a  plate,  into  which  dip  them,  roll  them  over,  then  throw 
them  into  a  dish  of  bread-crumbs,  pat  them  gently  with 
your  knife,  dip  again  into  eggs  and  bread-crumbs,  place 
them  in  a  wire  basket,  and  fry  in  very  hot  lard;  dress 
them  in  pyramid  upon  a  napkin,  and  serve  very  hot.  If 
the  preparation  is  well  prepared,  once  bread-crumbing  would 
be  sufficient. 


APPENDIX. 


No.  1360.  Aspic, 

Or  Savoury  Jelly,  extracted  from  the  succulence  of  meat, 
when  well  made,  is  very  inviting  at  any  season  of  the  year, 
especiaUy  in  the  summer,  besides  being  the  principal  orna- 
ment and  garniture  of  those  savoury  dishes  which  reUeve 
the  monotony  of  the  second  course.  The  tediousness  and 
expense  of  its  preparation  in  the  old-fashioned  manner  has 
often  been  the  cause  of  its. being  omitted,  which  has  also  pre- 
vented gourmets  from  partaking  of  the  second  course,  but 
where  well  served,  its  delightful  flavour  will  restore,  cleanse, 
and  invigorate  the  palate,  causing  each  guest  to  partake 
more  freely  of  the  savoiuy  dishes,  which  will  afibrd  a  zest 
to  the  dehcate  Lafitte  or  Chateau  Margot,  which  flows 
so  generously  in  the  glasses  of  true  epicures.  By  following 
closely  my  new  receipt,  I  venture  to  say  that  any  cook, 
with  a  Uttle  experience,  will  produce  an  aspic  fit  for  the 
table  of  a  crowned  head. 

Take  two  large  knuckles  of  veal,  which  cut  in  large  dice, 
having  about  six  pounds  of  meat,  well  butter  the  bottom 
of  a  middling-sized  stewpan,  put  in  the  meat,  with  one 
pound  of  lean  ham  and  two  calf's  feet,  cut  up,  breaking 
the  bones,  add  half  a  gill  of  water,  and  place  the  stewpan 
over  a  sharp  fire,  stirring  the  meat  round  occasionally  until 
the  bottom  of  the  stewpan  is  covered  with  a  whitish  glaze, 
then  fill  it  up  with  five  quarts  of  water,  add  three  onions. 


586  APPENDIX. 

one  small  carrot,  one  turnip,  half  a  head  of  celery,  six 
peppercorns,  one  clove,  half  a  blade  of  mace,  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  and  a  bunch  of  parsley,  with  which  you  have  mixed 
two  bay-leaves  and  a  few  sprigs  of  thyme,  abo  two  apples, 
peeled  and  cut  in  quarters ;  when  boiling  place  it  at  the 
comer  of  the  stove,  let  simmer  gently  for  three  hours, 
skimming  off  every  particle  of  fat,  or  it  would  interfere  with 
the  clarification ;  it  should  be  reduced  to  about  a  half,  pass 
it  through  a  fine  cloth  into  a  basin,  place  a  little  in  a  mould 
upon  ice  to  ascertain  if  sufficiently  firm,  if  too  firm  add  a 
little  light  broth,  but  if,  on  the  contraiy,  too  weak,  reduce  it 
until  you  have  obtained  the  consistency  of  strong  calf  Vfoot 
jelly,  place  the  remainder  in  a  stewpan  upon  the  fire,  taste 
if  to  your  palate ;  have  the  whites  of  six  eggs  in  a  basin, 
with  the  shells,  whisk  them  half  a  minute,  add  a  gSl  of 
water  or  broth,  two  spoonfuls  of  tarragon  vinegar,  and  a 
little  salt,  beat  all  together,  have  the  stock  boiling  upon  the 
fire,  whisk  round,  pour  in  the  eggs  at  once,  and  keep 
whisking  a  few  minutes ;  set  the  stewpan  at  the  comer  with 
the  lid  on,  upon  which  place  some  live  charcoal,  and  let  it 
refaiain  five  minutes,  have  a  fine  napkin,  which  tie  in  a  square 
upon  the  top  of  your  jelly-stand,  through  which  pass  it  into 
a  basin,  pouring  the  first  that  mns  through  again  into  the 
napkin,  when  passed  and  set  it  is  ready  for  use  where  di- 
rected. Should  you  require  the  aspic  to  partake  of  the 
flavour  of  fowl,  twenty  minutes  before  passing  the  stock, 
thmst  a  fowl  just  roasted  into  it,  leaving  it  but  a  very  short 
time.  The  same  remark  also  applies  to  game  of  any 
description,  should  you  require  the  aspic  of  such  a  flavour. 
To  obtain  aspic  of  a  fine  gold  colour,  let  your  stock  draw 
down  to  a  pale  yellowish  glaze  before  filling  it  up,  or  add  a 
spoonful  of  brown  gravy  (No.  135) ;  three  very  distinct  co- 
lours may  likewise  be  made  of  aspic,  without  introducing 
the  colour-box  of  some  celebrated  artists,  that  is,  leaving  the 


APPENDIX.  587 

one  nearly  white,  the  other  a  gold  colour,  as  above  men- 
tioned, and  the  other  quite  a  dark  brown,  adding  more 
brown  gravy  and  reducing  it  a  little^  clarifying  it  sepa- 
rately, and  colouring  before  the  clarification ;  place  it  in 
three  separate  saute-pans  or  flat  moulds,  which  place  upon 
ice,  when  set,  ornament  your  dishes  tastefully,  it  will  pro- 
duce an  excellent  efiect,  especially  in  a  large  supper.  Should 
you  not  succeed  in  clarifying  it  the  first  time,  the  operation 
must  be  again  performed. 

No.  1361.  Mayonnaise  a  la  geUe. 

Put  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  melted  aspic  upon  ice  in  a 
stewpan,  which  keep  whisking  until  becoming  a  white  firoth, 
then  add  half  a  pint  of  salad-oil  and  six  spoonfuls  of  tar- 
ragon vinegar,  by  degrees,  first  oil,  and  then  vinegar,  con- 
tinually whisking  until  it  forms  a  white  smooth  sauce,  to 
all  appearance  like  a  cream ;  season  with  half  a  teaspoonfiil 
of  salt,  a  quarter  ditto  of  pepper,  and  a  little  sugar,  whisk 
it  a  little  more,  and  it  is  ready  to  serve ;  it  is  usually  dressed 
pyramidically  over  the  article  it  is  served  with.  The  advan- 
tage of  this  sauce  (which  is  more  delicate  than  any  other) 
is,  that  you  may  dress  it  to  any  height  you  like,  and  it  will 
remain  so  for  a  long  time ;  if  the  temperature  is  not  too  hot 
it  will  remain  hours  without  melting  or  appearing  greasy. 

No.  1362.  Mayonnaise  a  la  geUe  aux  fines  herbes. 

Proceed  precisely  as  in  the  last,  but  adding  half  a  spoon- 
ful of  fresh  chopped  parsley,  half  a  one  of  finely  chopped 
eschalots,  and  one  of  finely  chopped  fresh  tarragon  and 
chervil. 

No.  1363.  Mayonnaise  a  la  geUe  en  Raviyote  verte. 

Well  pound  two  good  handfuls  of  spinach  in  a  mortar, 
and  put  it  into  a  thick  cloth  over  a  dish,  twist  up  the  cloth 


588  APPENDIX. 

as  tight  as  possible,  until  you  have  extracted  all  the  liquor, 
which  put  into  a  stewpan,  and  place  over  the  fire,  the  mo- 
ment it  boils  it  vnll  curdle,  when  pour  it  upon  the  back  of 
a  silk  sieve,  when  cold  take  a  spoonful  of  the  green  from  off 
the  sieve,  which  put  into  a  basin  with  a  good  spoonful  of 
chopped  tarragon ;  have  ready  a  good  mayonnaise  a  la  gelee 
(No.  1361),  which  put  into  the  basin,  mixing  the  whole 
lightly,  but  well  together;  it  will  be  of  a  fine  pistachio 
green  colour,  and  is  then  ready  for  use  where  required. 
To  make  it  red,  use  the  spawn  of  lobster  and  omit  the 
spinach.     It  requires  to  be  extremely  well  seasoned. 

No.  1364.  Mayonnaise  ordinaire. 

Put  the  yolks  of  two  fresh  eggs  in  a  basin,  vnth  the  yolk 
of  one  hard-boiled  one,  rub  through  a  hair  sieve,  add  two 
saltspoonfuls  of  salt,  and  one  of  white  pepper,  stir  round  with 
the  right  hand  with  a  wooden  spoon,  holding  a  bottle  of 
salad-oil  in  the  left,  dropping  it  in  by  degrees,  continually 
stirring,  when  becoming  a  little  thickish,  add  a  couple  of 
spoonfuls  of  common  vinegar,  by  degrees,  still  keeping  it 
stirred,  then  more  oil,  proceeding  thus  until  you  have  used  a 
pint  of  oil*  and  four  or  five  spoonfuls  of  vinegar,  having,  by 
constantly  working  it,  formed  a  stifBsh  cream-looking  sauce, 
perfectly  smooth ;  this  sauce  being  used  for  salads,  requires 
to  be  rather  highly  seasoned,  as  it  affords  the  seasoning  for 
salad,  volaille,  &c. ;  mayonnaise  aux  fines  herbes,  ditto  en 
ravigote  verte,  are  made  as  above,  adding  the  herbs,  or  herbs 
and  spinach  as  in  the  two  preceding.  Should  the  sauce 
curdle  in  making,  the  operation  must  be  again  commenced, 
putting  the  yolk  of  an  egg  in  a  basin,  stirring  in  carefully 
a  little  oil  and  vinegar,  and  when  forming  a  smoothish 
paste,  stir  in  the  ciu'dled  sauce  by  degrees  until  the  whole 
has  become  very  smooth.  Always  choose  a  cool  place  to 
make  it  in. 


APPENDIX.  589 

No.  1365.  Mayonnaise  a  la  ProvenQole. 

Prepare  a  sauce  as  described  in  the  last,  quite  plain, 
bruise  half  a  clove  of  a  garlic  to  a  puree,  which  add  to  the 
sauce  with  twelve  chopped  olives,  two  of  chopped  gherkins, 
two  of  capers,  and  the  fillets  of  a  small  anchovy  cut  in  fine 
strips ;  this  sauce  may  be  used  for  any  description  of  salad. 
There  are  many  persons  who,  I  am  aware,  have  a  great  dis- 
like to  garUc,  but  as  there  are  a  great  many  also  very  fond 
of  it,  1  have  here  given  it  as  a  bonne  louche. 

No.  1366.  Montpellier  Butter. 

Boil  six  eggs  quite  hard,  when  cold  take  out  the  yolks, 
which  put  into  a  mortar  with  four  anchovies  well  washed, 
two  spoonfuls  of  capers,  six  gherkins,  a  little  salt  and  pepper, 
a  spoonful  of  tarragon  and  chervil,  and  one  of  parsley, 
pound  all  well  together  (adding  the  yolk  of  a  raw  egg) 
until  it  forms  a  stiffish  paste ;  then  add  by  degrees  a  pint 
of  oil  (keep  mixing  with  the  pestle),  moistening  occasionally 
with  vinegar,  add  a  spoonful  of  the  colouring  from  spinach 
prepared  as  (No.  1363),  to  give  it  a  nice  colour,  rub  it 
through  a  hair  sieve  into  a  basin,  put  it  upon  the  ice,  and 
when  firm  it  is  ready  to  use  where  directed ;  a  quarter  of 
the  above  only  may  be  prepared  if  no  more  is  required. 

No.  1367.  Forcemeat  for  raised  pies. 

Take  three  pounds  of  lean  veal  from  the  leg,  which  cut 
into  very  small  dice,  with  one  pound  of  fat  bacon,  put  the 
whole  into  a  middling-sized  stewpan,  with  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  butter,  two  bay-leaves,  two  sprigs  of  thyme,  six 
of  parsley,  one  blade  of  mace,  twelve  peppercorns,  half  an 
ounce  of  pepper,  and  the  same  of  salt,  pass  it  over  a  sharp 
fire  imtil  the  bottom  of  the  stewpan  is  covered  with  a  white 
glaze,  stin'ing  the  whole  time ;  then  turn  it  upon  a  dish, 


590  APPENDIX. 

and  when  cold  chop  it  very  fine,  taking  out  the  mace  and 
peppercorns,  put  it  in  a  mortar  and  pound  it  well ;  add 
two  pounds  of  sausage-meat,  pound  and  mix  the  whole 
well  t(^ether,  then  add  six  eggs  and  a  Uttle  cold  white 
sauce,  when  well  mixed  it  is  ready  for  use  where  directed. 

No.  1368.  Foixemeat  of  Liver  for  game  pies. 

Procure  a  very  nice  calf's  Uver,  which  lay  in  water  a 
short  time  to  disgorge,  then  cut  it  up  in  small  dice,  with  a 
pound  of  lean  veal  and  one  of  fat  bacon,  put  the  whole  in 
a  stewpan  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  an  ounce  of 
pepper,  the  same  of  salt,  rather  less  than  a  quarter  of  an 
ounce  of  mixed  spice,  two  bay-leaves,  and  a  Uttle  thyme 
and  parsley,  pass  ten  minutes  over  a  sharp  fire,  keeping 
it  stirred ;  then  lay  it  upon  a  dish  until  cold,  when  put  it 
into  a  mortar  and  pound  well,  when  fine  add  one  pound  of 
pork  sausage-meat,  with  six  eggs  and  a  little  brown  sauce, 
mix  the  whole  well  together,  rub  it  through  a  wire  sieve 
with  a  wooden  spoon,  and  use  where  directed. 

No.  1369.  Sponge-cake, 

Put  one  pound  of  powdered  sugar  in  a  good-sized  bowl, 
which  stand  in  a  bain  marie  of  hot  water ;  sift  one  pound 
of  flour  upon  a  sheet  of  paper,  then  break  twelve  eggs  into 
the  bowl  with  the  sugar,  which  whisk  rather  quickly  until 
they  become  a  Httle  warm  and  rather  thickish,  when  take 
the  bowl  from  the  bain  marie,  and  continue  whisking  until 
nearly  or  quite  cold,  when  add  the  chopped  rind  of  a 
lemon  and  the  flour,  which  mix  lightly  with  a  wooden 
spoon ;  have  ready  your  mould  or  baking-dish  lightly  but- 
tered, into  which  you  have  put  a  Uttle  flour,  knocking  out 
all  that  does  not  adhere  to  the  butter,  pour  in  the  mixture 
and  place  it  one  hour  in  a  moderate  oven,  it  may  require 
longer  or  not  so  long,  but  that  wiU  depend  entirely  upon 


APPENDIX.  591 

the  compass  you  have  it  in  ;  if  done  it  will  feel  firm  to  the 
touch,  but  the  surest  method  is  to  run  a  thin  wooden 
skewed  into  the  centre,  if  it  comes  out  clean  the  cake  is 
done,  but  if  not  some  of  the  mixture  would  adhere  to  it ; 
care  should  be  taken  not  to  disturb  it  until  quite  set,  or  it 
would  sink  in  the  centre,  and  never  properly  bake ;  when 
done  turn  it  out  upon  a  sieve  to, cool.  As  the  above  is  for 
cutting,  and  many  of  my  new  removes  are  made  from  it,  it 
had  better  be  overdone  than  not  done  enough. 

No.  1370.  Savoy  Cake  in  mould. 

Have  ready  a  large  high  mould  Ughtly  buttered,  (with  a 
soft  brush,  and  clarified  butter,)  turn  the  mould  up  to 
drain,  and  when  the  butter  is  quite  set  throw  some  finely 
sifted  sugar  into  it;  move  the  mould  round  until  the 
sugar  has  adhered  to  every  part,  after  which  turn  out  the 
superfluous  sugar,  tie  a  band  of  buttered  paper  round  at 
the  top,  and  place  it  in  a  cool  place  until  the  mixture  is 
ready.  Place  the  yolks  of  fourteen  eggs  in  a  basin  with 
one  pound  of  sugar  (upon  which  you  have  rubbed  the  rind 
of  two  lemons  previous  to  pounding),  beat  well  together 
with  a  wooden  spoon  until  nearly  white,  then  whip  the 
whites  of  the  eggs  very  stiff",  add  them  to  the  yolks  and 
sugar,  with  six  ounces  of  flour  and  six  ounces  of  potato- 
flour,  mix  the  whole  lightly,  but  well  together,  and  fill  the 
mould  rather  more  than  three  parts  full,  place  it  in  a  very 
moderate  oven  one  hour,  keeping  the  oven  door  shut ;  then 
try  when  done  as  directed  in  the  last,  if  done  take  off  the 
paper  and  turn  it  out  upon  a  sieve  until  quite  cold.  The 
above  mixture  being  more  delicate  than  the  last,  would  not 
do  so  well  for  removes,  but  may  be  used  for  that  purpose 
by  being  made  three  or  four  days  before  it  is  required. 


t 


592  APPENDIX. 

No.  1371.  Savoy  Biscuits. 

Have  the  weight  of  nine  eggs  of  sugar  in  a  bo\i^  which 
put  into  a  bain  marie  of  hot  water,  weigh  the  same 
weight  of  flour,  which  sift  through  a  wire  sieve  upon  paper, 
break  the  eggs  into  a  bowl,  and  proceed  as  directed  for 
s|)onge-cake ;  then  with  a  paper  funnel  or  bag,  with  a  tin 
pipe  made  for  that  purpose,  lay  it  out  upon  papers  into 
biscuits  three  inches  in  length,  and  the  thickness  of  your 
little  finger,  sift  sugar  over,  shaking  ofi"  all  that  does  not 
adhere  to  them ;  place  them  upon  baking-sheets  and  bake 
in  rather  a  warm  oven  of  a  brownish  yellow  colour,  when 
done  and  cold  detach  them  from  the  paper  by  wetting  it  at 
the  back,  place  them  a  short  time  to  dry,  and  they  are 
ready  for  use  for  charlotte  russe,  or  wherever  directed. 

No.  1372.  To  clarify  Isinglass. 

Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  isinglass  in  a  small  stew- 
pan,  just  cover  it  with  a  little  clear  spring  water,  and  add 
a  piece  of  lump  sugar  the  size  of  a  walnut,  place  it  upon 
the  fire,  shaking  the  stewpan  round  occasionally  to  prevent 
its  sticking  to  the  bottom ;  when  upon  the  point  of  simmer- 
ing add  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  let  simmer  about  a  quar- 
ter of  an  hoiu*,  skim  and  pass  it  through  a  fine  cloth ;  if  the 
isinglass  is  good  it  will  be  as  clear  as  crystal,  but  if  it 
should  be  a  little  clouded  (which  it  might  be,  and  yet  the 
isinglass  tolerably  good)  clai'ify  it  again  thus :  pour  it  into 
a  larger  stewpan  adding  half  a  gill  of  water,  place  it  upon 
the  fire,  and  when  on  the  point  of  boiling  have  the  white  of 
an  egg  in  a  basin,  whip  well  with  half  a  gill  of  water,  pour 
it  into  the  isinglass,  which  keep  whisking  over  the  fire  until 
boiling,  when  place  it  at  the  corner  of  the  stove,  and  let  re- 
Tluce  to  its  former  consistency,  it  will  keep  good  some  few 
days  if  kept  in  a  cool  place ;  if  required  for  cremes  or  ba- 


APPESNDIX.  59? 

varoises  it  will  not  require  darifying,  but  merdy  dissolving 
as  at  first  directed. 

No.  1373.  Glaoe  JRoyale  or  Iceing, 

Have  ready  a  pound  of  the  best  white  sugar,  which 
pound  weU  and  sift  through  a  silk  sieve,  put  it  into  a  basin 
with  the  whites  of  three  fresh  eggs,  beat  well  together  with 
a  wooden  $poon,  adding  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  keep 
beating  well  until  it  becomes  very  Ught  and  hangs  in  flakes 
from  the  spoon  (if  it  should  be  rather  too  stiff  in  mixing, 
add  a  little  more  white  of  egg,  if,  on  the  contrary,  too 
soft,  a  little  more  sugar),  it  is  then  ready  for  use  where 
required. 

No.  1374.  Chocolate  Iceing 

Is  made  similar  to  the  last,  but  when  finished  have  ready 
a  piece  of  the  common  chocolate,  which  melt  in  a  stewpan 
over  the  fire,  keeping  it  stirred;  when  quite  melted  stir 
some  of  it  in  with  the  iceing  until  yon  have  obtained  the 
colour  required,  moistening  the  iceing  with  a  little  more 
white  of  ^g,  and  use  where  directed. 

No.  1375.  Sugar  in  grain% 

Is  made  by  pounding  a  quantity  of  smrar  in  a  mortar, 
and  sifting  off  S  «ie  ^e  tllugh  a  hairlve,  then  again 
what  remains  in  the  sieve  put  into  a  rather  coarse  wire 
sieve,  and  that  which  passes  through  is  what  is  meant  by 
the  above  term. 

No.  1876.  To  coUmr  sugar  ingrains. 

Prepare  about  half  a  pound  of  the  sugar  as  in  the  last, 
which  put  upon  a  baking-sheet ;  have  a  spoonful  of  the 
essence  of  spinach  prepared  as  (No.  1244),  which  stir  in 
with  the  sugar  until  every  grain  is  stamed,  when  put  them 

38 


594  APPENDIX. 

in  a  warmish  |daoe  to  dry,  bot  not  too  hot ;  to  colour  them 
red,  use  a  little  prepared  oochineal  or  liquid  carmine,  in- 
stead of  the  spinach,  and  proceed  exactly  the  same ;  sugar 
may  be  made  of  other  colours  by  the  use  of  indigo,  rouge, 
saffion,  &c. ;  but  not  bdng  partial  to  such  a  variety  ci  co- 
louring, I  have  merely  given  the  red  and  the  green,  which, 
with  the  white,  I  consider  to  be  sufficient  for  any  of  the 
purposes  for  which  they  are  used. 

No.  1377.   FaniOa  Suyar. 

Chop  a  stick  of  well-frosted  vanilla  very  small,  and  put 
it  into  a  mortar  with  half  a  pound  of  lump  sugar,  pound 
the  whole  well  together  in  a  mortar,  sift  through  a  hair 
sieve,  and  put  by  in  a  bottle  or  jar,  corking  it  up  tight,  and 
using  where  required. 

No.  1378.  Lenwn  Sugar. 

Rub  the  rind  of  some  fresh  lemons  upon  a  large  piece  of 
sugar,  and  as  it  discolours  the  part  upon  which  it  is  rubbed 
scrape  it  off  with  a  knife ;  when  you  have  obtained  a  suf- 
ficient quantity,  dry  a  Uttle  in  the  screen,  and  bottle  for  use 
where  required.  Orange  sugar  may  be  made  in  the  same 
manner,  substituting  very  red  oranges  for  the  lemons. 

No.  1379.  To  clarify  and  boU  Sugar. 

Break  three  pounds  of  fine  white  sugar,  the  hardest  and 
closest  grained  is  the  best,  put  it  into  a  sugar-pan  with 
three  pints  of  clear  spring  water,  set  over  a  sharp  fire,  and 
when  beginning  to  boil  place  it  at  the  comer  to  sinuner, 
and  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  skim  well  and  re- 
duce to  two  thirds,  it  is  then  ready  to  use  for  jellies,  &c. 

If  not  able  to  obtain  the  best  quality  sugar  it  would  be 
necessary  to  use  white  of  eggs  as  an  assistance  in  the  da- 
xification,  by  putting  the  white  of  one  egg  in  a  basin  and 


APPENDIX.  595 

whipping  it  well  with  a  pint  of  cold  water,  add  half  of  it  to 
the  sugar,  whipping  it  well  in,  let  simmer,  adding  the  re- 
mainder by  degrees  whilst  simmering,  and  passing  it  through 
a  fine  cloth  into  a  basin.  The  boiling  of  sugar  is  divided 
into  seven  different  degrees,  which  may  be  ascertained  by 
the  following  directions  : — 

The  first  degree  is  known  by  dipping  a  copper  skimmer 
into  it  whilst  boiling,  turning  it  over  two  or  three  times,  if 
the  sugar  falls  from  it  in  sheets  it  has  attained  the  first 
degree. 

The  second  is  known  by  boiling  your  sugar  rather  longer, 
dipping  your  finger  and  thumb  into  cold  water,  thfin  your 
finger  into  the  boiling  sugar,  putting  your  finger  and  thumb 
together,  and  again  opening  them,  it  will  form  a  kind  of 
thread ;  if  it  is  too  weak  boil  a  Uttle  longer,  this  is  the  most 
useful  degree  for  fiiiit  or  water  ices. 

The  third  degree  is  attained  by  boiling  it  a  little  longer, 
and  trying  it  in  the  same  manner,  upon  the  thread  break- 
ing, should  it  form  a  kind  of  pearl,  it  has  attained  the  above 
degree ;  the  sugar  in  boiling  would  also  be  covered  with  a 
quantity  of  small  bubbles  resembling  pearls. 

The  next  degree  is  attained  by  boiling  it  still  longer,  dip 
a  skimmer  into  it,  turn,  take«out  and  blow  it  hard,  when 
the  sugar  will  form  little  bladders  and  float  in  the  air,  this 
degree  is  called  the  souffle. 

For  the  next  degree  boil  still  longer,  trying  it  in  the 
same  manner,  but  blowing  harder,  the  bladders  will  be 
larger  and  adhere  together,  forming  feathers ;  this  degree  is 
called  la  plume,  or  the  feather. 

The  next  is  called  au  petite  casee,  and  is  obtained  by 
boiling  the  sugar  a  little  longer,  to  know  this  degree  have  a 
pint  of  cold  water  in  a  basin  into  which  you  have  put  a 
piece  of  ice,  dip  you  finger  into  it,  then  into  the  boiling 
sugar,  and  then  into  the  water  again,  take  the  piece  which. 


596  AFPSNDIX. 

adheres  to  the  finger  and  bite,  if  rather  crisp,  but  sticking 
to  the  teeth,  it  has  attained  that  degree. 

The  seventh  and  last  requires  great  attention,  to  attain  it 
boil  rather  longer,  dip  your  finger  in  as  before,  if  it  cradcs 
and  does  not  at  all  adhere  to  the  teeth  in  biting  it  is  done, 
take  fix)m  the  fire  and  it  is  ready  for  use  for  making  any 
kind  of  sugar  ornament. 

When  intended  for  such  purposes,  however,  add  a  little 
tartaric  acid  wh&a  it  arrives  to  tlie  degree  la  plume,  and 
pour  it  into  a  smaUer  sugar-pan,  aUowing  it  to  reach  the 
rims,  it  will  be  then  imable  to  bum  round  the  sides  as  if  in 
a  largef  pan ;  if  such  a  thing  should,  however,  happen  in  a 
larger  pan,  wipe  the  interior  of  the  pan  round  with  a  sponge 
previously  dipped  in  cold  water,  or  it  would  discolour  the 
sugar. 

Ornaments  of  spun  sugar  I  have  a  very  great  dislike  to 
for  a  dinner,  but  if  required,  the  sugar  must  be  boiled  to 
the  last  degree.  Should  the  sugar  grain  it  may  be  brought 
back  by  adding  more  water,  and  when  dissolved,  boiling 
over  again ;  in  spinning  sugar  you  must  keep  the  bulk  of 
it  in  a  warm  temperature,  having  a  little  in  a  smalls 
pan  for  use,  which  keep  in  a  melted  state  by  placing  it  in  a 
marie  ci  hot  water  or  in  a  hot  doset. 


No.  1380.  Sucre  fie. 

Having  boiled  your  sugar  to  the  seventh  degree,  as  in 
the  last,  oil  the  handle  of  a  wooden  spoon,  tie  two  forks 
together,  the  prongs  turned  outwards,  dip  them  lightly  into 
the  sugar,  take  out  and  shake  them  to  and  firo,  the  sugar 
running  from  them  over  the  spoon  forming  fine  silken 
threads,  proceeding  thus  until  you  have  as  much  as  you 
require,  take  it  from  the  spoon  and  form  it  with  your  hands 
into  whatever  may  be  directed  for  the  garnishing  of  any 
dish,  not,  howevar,  too  thick,  or  it  would  look  heavy.     An 


APPBNDIX.  597 

experienced  hood  would  prefer  doing  it  firom  the  lip  of  the 
sugar-pan. 

Other  kinds  of  ornaments  from  sugar  are  made  in  a 
similar  manner  by  oiling  a  mould  or  shape  and  running 
fillets  of  the  sugar  &om  the  lip  of  the  pan  over  it  as  taste- 
fully as  possible,  but  as  I  have  not  referred  to  it  in  this 
work  I  will  not  enter  into  its  details. 

No.  1381.   Vanilla  Cream  Ice. 

Put  the  yolks  of  twelve  eggs  in  a  ste^rpan,  with  half  a 
pound  of  sugar,  beat  well  together  with  a  wooden  spoon, 
in  another  stewpan  have  a  quart  of  milk  and  when  boiling 
throw  in  two  sticks  of  vanilla,  draw  it  from  the  fire,  place 
on  the  lid  and  let  remain  until  partly  cold,  pour  it  over  the 
eggs  and  sugar  in  the  other  stewpan,  mix  well,  and  place  it 
over  the  fire  (keeping  it  stirred)  until  it  thickens  and 
adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  when  pass  it  through  a 
tammie  into  a  basin,  let  remain  until  cold,  then  have  ready 
a  pewter  freezing-pot  in  an  ice-paU  well  surrounded  vnth  ice 
and  salt  -*  put  the  above  preparation  into  it,  place  on  the 
lid,  which  must  fit  rather  tightly,  and  commence  twisting  the 
pot  round  sharply,  keeping  it  tunied  for  about  ten  minutes, 
when  take  oif  the  lid  and  with  your  spatula  clear  the  sides 
of  the  interior  of  the  pot,  place  the  lid  on  again,  turn  the 
pot  ten  minutes  longer,  when  again  dear  the  sides  and  beat 
the  whole  well  together  until  smooth,  it  being  then  about 
half  frossen,  then  add  four  glasses  of  noyeau  or  maresquino 
and  a  pint  and  a  half  of  cream  well  whipped,  beat  the  whole 

*  To  freeze  quickly  any  descriptiou  of  ice  the  freezing-pot  must  be  well  set, 
place  it  in  the  centre  of  the  pall,  wliich  must  be  large  enough  to  give  a  s))ace  of 
four  Inches  all  round,  break  twelve  pounds  of  ice  up  small,  wliich  put  round  at 
the  bottom  six  inches  in  depth,  over  wliich  put  two  pounds  of  salt,  beat  down 
tight  with  a  rolling-pin,  then  more  ice,  then  salt,  proceeding  thus  until  within 
three  inches  of  the  top  of  your  freezing-pot,  saltpetre  mixed  wilii  the  salt  will 
facilitate  it  in  freezing. 


598  APPENDIX. 

well  together,  place  the  lid  upon  the  top,  keep  twisting  it 
round  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  clear  well  from  the  sides,  beat 
again  well  together,  proceeding  thus  until  the  whole  is 
frozen  into  a  stiff  but  smooth  and  mellow  substance,  should 
you  require  to  keep  it  sometime  before  serving,  pour  the 
water  which  has  run  from  the  ice  out  of  the  paU  and  add 
fresh  ice  and  salt ;  when  ready  to  serve  work  it  up  smoothly 
with  your  spatula. 

No.  1382.  Coffee  Cream  Ice, 

Proceed  exactly  as  in  the  last  but  omitting  the  noyeau  or 
maresquino,  and  making  an  infusion  with  coffee  as  directed 
(No.  1253)  instead  of  vanilla. 

No.  1383.   Chocolate  Cream  Ice 

Is  made  similar  to  the  vanilla  cream  ice,  but  omitting 
the  vanilla  and  liqueur,  in  the  room  of  which  scrape  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  chocolate,  place  it  in  a  stewpan  over 
the  fire  and  keep  stirring  until  melted,  then  have  ready 
boiling  a  quart  of  milk,  which  mix  with  the  chocolate 
by  degrees,  finish  with  eggs  and  sugar,  and  freeze  as 
before. 

No.  1384.  Pineapple  Cream  Ice. 

Procure  a  rather  small  pineapple,  take  off  the  rind  which 
reserve,  and  cut  the  apple  into  pieces  an  inch  in  length  and 
about  the  thickness  of  a  quill,  place  them  in  a  sugar-pan, 
with  half  a  pound  of  sugar  and  half  a  pint  of  water,  set  it 
upon  the  fire  and  reduce  to  a  rather  thickish  syrup,  have 
ready  a  pint  and  a  half  of  milk  upon  the  fire,  into  which 
when  boiling  throw  the  rind  of  the  pineapple,  cover  it  over 
and  let  infuse  ten  minutes,  in  another  stewpan  have  the 
yolks  of  twelve  eggs,  to  which  add  the  milk  by  degrees, 
(previously  straining  it,)  place   over  the   fire,  keeping  it 


APPENDIX.  599 

stirred  until  adhering  to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  when  pass 
it  through  a  tammie  into  a  basin,  add  the  syrup  and  pine- 
apple, and  freeze  it  as  in  the  last,  adding  a  pint  and  a  half 
of  whipped  cream ;  when  half  frozen  use  where  directed. 

No.  1385.  Lemon  Cream  Ice. 

Take  the  rind  from  six  lemons  as  thin  as  possible  and 
free  from  pith,  squeeze  the  juice  of  the  lemons  into  a 
sugar-pan,  with  half  a  pound  of  sugar  and  half  a  pint  of 
water,  place  it  upon  the  fire  and  reduce  until  rather  a 
thickish  syrup,  have  a  pint  and  a  half  of  milk  upon  the  fire 
into  which  when  boiling  throw  the  rind  of  the  lemons, 
cover  over  and  let  remain  until  half  cold,  in  another  stew* 
pan  have  the  yolks  of  twelve  eggs,  (to  which  you  have  added 
an  ounce  of  sugar),  with  which  mix  the  inilk  by  degrees, 
and  stir  over  the  fire  till  it  adheres  to  the  back  of  the  spoon, 
when  stir  in  the  syrup  and  pass  it  through  a  tammie; 
when  cold  freeze  as  directed  (No.  1381)  adding  a  pint  of 
whipped  cream  when  half  frozen. 

No.  1386.   Orange  Cream  Ice, 

Proceed  precisely  as  in  the  last,  but  using  the  juice  and 
rind  of  ten  oranges  instead  of  lemons  as  there  directed. 

No.  1387.  Apricot  Cream  Ice. 

Procure  a  dozen  and  a  half  of  fine  ripe  apricots,  which 
cut  in  halves,  take  out  the  stones,  which  break,  extracting 
the  kernels,  which  blanch  in  very  hot  water  and  skin,  then 
put  them  with  the  apricots  into  a  sugar-pan,  with  half  a 
pound  of  sugar  and  half  a  glassful  of  water,  let  them,  boil 
uutU  almost  forming  a  marmalade,  when  put  them  by  in  a 
basin,  have  the  yolks  of  twelve  eggs  in  a  stewpan,  with 
which  mix  by  degrees  a  pint  and  a  half  of  milk,  set  over 
the  fire,  keeping  it  stirred  until  thick  enough  to  adhere  to 


600  APFBKDIX. 

the  bade  of  the  spoon,  when  pass  it  through  a  taaunie  into 
a  basin,  add  the  symp  and  apricots,  and  when  cold  three 
glasses  of  noyeau,  fireese  as  in  (No.  1S81),  and  when  half 
fipozen  add  a  pint  of  good  whipped  cream. 

No.  1S88.  Strawberry  Cream  Ice. 

Procure  about  two  pounds  of  fine  ripe  strawberries, 
which  pick  and  rub  through  a  hair  sieve  with  a  wooden 
spoon,  obtaining  all  the  juice  and  pulp  of  the  strawberries, 
with  which  mix  half  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar  and  put  it 
by  in  a  basin,  in  a  stewpan  have  the  yolks  of  twelve  ^gs, 
with  which  mix  by  degrees  a  pint  and  a  half  of  milk,  stir 
over  the  fire  until  it  bewmea  thickish,  adhering  to  the  baek 
of  the  spoon,  when  pass  it  through  a  tammie,  and  when 
cold  add  the  juice  from  the  strawberries  and  three  glasses 
of  maresquino,  freeze  it  as  directed  (No.  1381),  adding  a 
pint  of  whipped  cream  when  half  frozen  and  sufficiently 
prepared;  cochineal  to  give  it  a  strawberry  colour  if  ap- 
proved of. 

No.  1389.  Apple  Marmalade. 

Peel  and  cut  thirty  apples  in  slices,  taking  out  the  cores, 
and  if  for  preserving  to  every  pound  of  fiiiit  put  three 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  broken  sugar,  (but  if  for  immediate 
use  half  a  pound  would  be  quite  sufficient,)  place  the 
whole  into  a  large  preserving-pan,  with  half  a  spoonful  of 
powdered  cinnamon  and  the  rind  of  a  lemon  chopped  very 
fine,  set  the  pan  over  a  sharp  fire,  stirring  it  occasionally 
until  boiling,  when  keep  stirring  until  becoming  rather 
thick,  it  is  then  done ;  if  for  immediate  use  a  smaller  quan- 
tity would  be  sufficient,  which  put  by  in  a  basin  until  cold, 
but  if  to  keep  any  time  put  it  in  jars,  which  cover  over 
with  paper,  and  tie  down  until  wanted. 


APPENDIX*  SOI 

No.  1890.  Apricot  Marmalade. 

Stone  about  eight  pounds  of  ripe  fleshy  apricots,  break 
the  stones,  and  blanch  and  skin  the  kernels,  which  with  the 
apricots  put  into  a  preserving-pan,  add  six  pounds  of  sugar 
and  place  it  over  a  sharp  fire,  stirring  occasionally  until 
boiling,  when  keep  stirring  until  beconoing  rather  thksk, 
take  it  off,  put  it  in  jars,  and  when  cold  tie  paper  over,  and 
put  by  until  ready  for  use. 

No.  1391.  Qirince  Marmalade. 

Procure  a  sieve  of  fine  ripe  quinces,  which  peel  and  eat 
in  four,  taking  out  the  cores,  place  them  in  a  large  pre- 
serving-pan and  cover  with  cold  water ;  set  upon  the  fire, 
and  when  boiling  and  tender  to  the  touch,  place  them 
in  a  large  sieve  to  drain  one  hour,  pass  them  through 
a  tammie,  then  have  ready  a  corresponding  weight  of  sugar 
boiled  to  the  sixth  degree  (No.  1379)  in  the  preserving- 
pan,  to  which  add  the  puree  of  quinces,  keep  stirring  over 
the  fire  till  forming  thin  sheets,  drop  a  little  upon  the  cover 
of  a  stewpan,  if  it  sets  quickly  take  it  from  the  .fixe,  put  it 
in  small  jars,  and  let  remain  a  day  until  quite  cold,  when 
tie  them  down,  and  put  by  until  wanted. 

No.  1392.  Jpricot  Marmalade  {transparenf). 

Procure  a  quantity  of  very  ripe  apricots,  each  of  which  cut 
into  four  or  six  pieces,  break  the  stones  andblanch  the  kernels, 
put  the  apricots  in  a  preserving-pan  with  a  small  quantity 
of  water,  boil  thein  until  quite  tender,  when  pass  them 
through  a  sieve  s  to  every  pound  of  fruit  have  three  quarters 
of  a  pound  of  sugar  (in  a  preserving-pan)  boiled  to  the  aiicth 
degree  (No.  1879),  add  the  apricots  with  their  kernels,  and 
keep  stirring  over  the  fire  until  forming  thin  transparent 
sheets,  try  when  done  as  in  the  last,  and  put  away  in  pots. 


602  APP1»IDIX. 

The  marmalade  would  be  still  more  transparent  if  you  were 
to  peel  the  apricots  firsts  but  then  you  would  lose  some 
of  their  delicious  flavour. 

No.  1893.  Cherry  Marmalade. 

Procure  a  sieve  of  bright  Kentish  cherries,  puU  out  the 
stalks  and  stones,  and  put  the  fruit  in  a  preserving-pan, 
place  over  the  fire,  keeping  it  stirred  until  reduced  to  two 
thirds,  have  in  another  preserving-pan,  to  every  pound 
of  fruit,  half  a  pound  of  sugar  boiled  to  the  sixth  degree 
^No.  1379),  into  which  poinr  the  fruit  when  boiling  hot,  let 
reduce,  keep  stirring  until  you  can  just  see  the  bottom  of  the 
pan,  when  take  it  from  the  fire,  and  fill  your  jars  as  before. 

A  plainer  way  is  to  take  off  the  stalks  and  stone  the 
fruit,  place  them  in  a  pan  over  a  sharp  fire,  and  to  every 
pound  of  fruit  add  nearly  half  a  pound  of  sugar,  keep  stir- 
ring until  reduced  as  above,  and  let  it  get  partly  cold  in  the 
pan  before  fiUing  the  jars. 

No.  1394.  Strawberry  Marmalade, 

Pick  twelve  pounds  of  very  red  ripe  strawberries,  which 
put  into  a  preserving-pan  with  ten  pounds  of  sugar  (broken 
into  smallish  pieces),  place  over  a  sharp  fire,  keep  con- 
tinually stirring,  boiling  it  until  the  surface  is  covered  with 
clearish  bubbles,  try  a  little  upon  a  cover,  if  it  sets,  fill  the 
jars  as  before. 

No.  1395.  Bay^berry  Marmalade. 

Pick  twelve  pounds  of  raspberries  and.  pass  them  through 
a  fine  sieve  to  extract  the  seeds,  boil  as  many  pounds  of 
sugar  as  you  Jiad  pounds  of  fruit  to  the  sixth  degree 
(No.  1379),  when  add  the  pulp  of  the  fruit,  keep  stirring 
over  the  fire,  reducing  it  until  you  can  just  see  the  bottom  of 
the  pan,  take  it  from  the  fire,  and  put  it  into  jars  as  before. 


APPENDIX.  60S 

No.  1396.  Apple  Jelly. 

Cut  six  dozen  of  sound  rennet  apples  in  quarters,  take 
out  all  the  pips,  put  them  into  a  sugar-pau,  just  cover  them 
with  cold  water,  and  place  over  the  fire,  let  boil  until  the 
apples  become  quite  pulpy,  when  drain  them  upon  a  sieve, 
catching  the  liquor  in  a  basin,  which  afterwards  pass  through 
a  new  and  very  clean  jelly-bag ;  to  every  pint  of  Uquor  have 
one  pound  of  sugar,  which  boil  to  the  sixth  degree  as  di- 
rected (No.  1379),  when,  whilst  hot,  mix  in  the  liquor 
from  the  apple  with  a  very  clean  skinmier,  to  prevent  it 
boiling  over  keep  it  skimmed,  lift  the  skimmer  occasionally 
from  the  pan,  and  when  the  jelly  falls  from  it  in  thin  sheets, 
take  it  up  and  fill  the  pots  as  before ;  the  smaller  pots  are 
the  best  adapted  for  jellies. 

No.  1397.  Quince  Jelly. 

Proceed  exactly  as  directed  in  the  last,  but  using  quinces 
instead  of  apples. 

No.  1398.  Currant  and  Batpberry  Jelly. 

Put  half  a  sieve  of  fine  red  currants  in  a  large  stewpan 
with  a  gallon  of  white  currants  and  a  gallon  of  raspberries, 
add  a  quart  of  water,  place  over  the  fire,  keep  stirring,  to 
prevent  them  sticking  to  the  bottom,  and  let  boil  about  ten 
minutes,  pour  them  into  a  sieve  to  drain,  catching  the  juice 
in  a  basin  and  draining  the  currants  quite  dry,  pass  the 
juice  whilst  hot  through  a  clean  jelly-bag,  have  a  pound  of 
sugar  to  every  pii)t  of  juice,  and  proceed  precisely  as  directed 
for  apple  jelly.  Should  you  have  time  to  pick  the  currants 
frx>m  the  stalks  previous  to  boiling,  you  would  lose  that 
bitter  flavour,  and  have  less  difficulty  in  making  your 
jelly  clear. 


604  APPENDIX. 

Na  13Q9.  ennrmt  Jelfy 

Is  made  pTedsely  as  in  the  last,  amktiiig  the  raq[>benries, 
the  difimnoe  being  in  the  uae;  the  bet  being  adq)ted 
for  the  garnishing  of  pastry,  and  this  to  use  fcv  sauoes, 
or  to  serve  with  hares,  veniaon»  or  any  other  meat,  where 
required. 

A  more  simple  method  of  making  cuirant  jelly  is  to  rub 
the  firuit  through  a  sieve,  and  afterwards  squeese  it  through 
a  fine  linen  doth,  put  it  into  a  preserving-pan  with  to  every 
pint  of  juice  (three  quarten  of  a  pound  of  white  sugar;  plaoe 
over  a  sharp  fire,  stirring  occasionally  with  a  skimmer, 
keeping  it  well  skimmed;  it  is  done  when  dropping  in 
sheets  as  before  from  the  skimmer.  For  my  own  part,  I 
prefer  this  last  simple  method,  being  quicker  done,  and  re- 
taining more  of  the  fiill  freshness  of  the  fruit. 

It  is  not  my  intention  to  give  a  description  of  the  various 
methods  of  preserving  fruits  which  belong  to  the  oonfec- 
f  ionary  department ;  I  have  however  given  the  few  foregoing 
receipts,  they  being  required  for  reference  from  various 
parts  of  this  work,  and  being  all  that  are  required  for  the 
garnishing  of  dishes  for  the  second  course ;  various  other 
fruits  may,  however,  be  made  into  marmalades  and  jellies 
by  following  those  few  simple  directions. 

No.  1400.  2h]jrc8erve  Toinataa. 

Prociure  sue  half  sieves  of  fine  red  xv^  tomatas,  pidl  out 
the  stalks,  squeeze  out  the  seeds,  and  throw  the  tomatas 
into  a  middling-sized  stock-pot  or  large  stewpan,  add  two 
carrots  (cut  in  thin  slices),  ten  onions  (do.),  a  head  of  celery, 
ten  sprigs  of  thyme,  ten  dp.  of  parsley,  six  bay-leaves,  siiL 
cloves  of  gariic,  four  blades  of  mace,  ten  cloves,  ten  pepper- 
corns, and  a  handfid  of.  salt ;  place  upon  the  iii'e,  move 
them   occasionally  from  the   bottom,   and  let  boil   three 


APPKNBIX.  605 

quarters  of  an  hour;  then  line  a  couple  of  large  sieves 
with  cloths,  into  which  put  them  to  drain,  (not  too  dry,) 
throw  the  liquor  that  runs  from  them  away,  rub  them 
through  a  wire  sieve,  and  afterwards  through  tammies,  then 
put  them  into  a  stewpan,  season  with  a  teaspoonfiil  of 
cayenne  and  a  little  more  salt,  place  upon  the  fire,  and 
stir  mitU  boiling,  take  from  the  fire,  and  when  about 
three  parts  cold,  put  into  strong  glaas  bottles^  (do  not  fill 
them  too  full),  cork  them  down,  tightly  securing  the  corks 
with  wire  or  string,  place  them  in  a  vegetable  steamer,  and 
steam  them  weU  for  half  an  hour  (or  if  no  steamer,  have  a 
laj^  fish-kettle  of  water  simmering,  in  which  stand  the 
bottles,  with  their  necks  just  out  of  the  water)  take  them 
out,  and  when  cold  dip  the  tops  into  melted  pitch  and 
rosiD,  tlien  into  cold  water,  and  put  by  until  required. 

*  For  this  purpose  I  can  reoommend  the  stone  bottles  and  apparatus  for 
preserving  frnks  indented  by  Mr.  James  Cooper,  of  No.  7,  St.  Jolin-sireot* 
Glerkenwell;  I  have  used  them  upon  several  occasions  and  for  different  de- 
scriptions of  froit,  and  have  never  met  vrith  any  system  that  so  well  preserved 
the  freshness  of  the  fruit,  or  which  is  more  simple  in  its  operation. 


BUD  Oy  BECEIPTS  FOB  TUB  TABLE  OF  THE  WEALTHY. 


606 


SERVICE  PAGODATIQUE. 


Mt  new  pagodatique  dishes,  which  have  been  pronounced 
by  persons  of  taste  who  have  seen  them  (and  more  so  by 
those  who  have  partaken  of  their  contents)  to  be  most 
novel,  useful,  and  el^ant,  a  service  of  them  forming  quite 
a  new  coup  d'oeil,  and  giving  the  greatest  variation  to  small 
recherche  dinners.  Having  invented  them  only  last  year, 
and  having  then  this  work  in  progress,  caused  me  to  refirain 
from  giving  them  any  great  publicity  previous  to  this 
publication ;  and  the  only  service  ever  used  was  by  me  at 
the  Reform  Club,  where  they  met  with  complete  success. 
A  minute  description  of  the  origin,  utility,  and  construction 
will  be  found  at  the  end  of  this  work,  with  correct  engravings, 
representing  it  both  with  and  without  the  cover ;  so  I  shall 
here  content  myself  by  giving  a  bill  of  fare  of  a  dinner  served 
in  them,  to  grace  the  table  of  the  wealthy^  as  represented 
in  the  following  engraving.  They  being  entirely  devoted 
for  entrees,  four  of  them  make  a  service,  and  in  very  large 
dmners  may  be  always  introduced  as  comer  dishes.  In  the 
following  bill  of  fare  I  have  given  two  entrees^  containing 
four  sauces  each,  and  the  others  with  only  two,  being  the 
manner  in  which  I  have  frequently  served  them,  each  brown 
entree  must  be  lightly  glazed,  dressed  elegantly  in  the 
centre,  not  covering  too  large  a  space,  and  just  sufficient 
clear  gravy  to  cover  the  bottom  of  your  dish,  whilst  the 
white  entrees  would  require  a  little  thin  white  sauce ;  some 
entrees,  again,  which  require  to  be  dipped  in  white  or 
brown  sauce  would  have  sufficient  run  from  them  to  cover 
the  bottom  of  the  dish. 


11 


r 


607 


N 


Bm  of  fm 


DINn  POUR  DTX  PBR80NNBS. 


Potaffe  h  la  ^ctoria. 
Fotage  Ah,  Prince  of  Wales. 


cage; 

klBL 

Deux  Poissons. 


Petit 


Torbot  en  matdote 
yierge. 


Tmites  de  mi^re 
&  la  cr^me. 


Dbux  Eblbvzs. 


t 
I 


Quartier  d'Agnean  de  Maison  roti. 
Petites  Pouardes  en  Diademe. 

QuATBE  Entrees  PAGODATiauE. 

Petites  Gotelettes  de  Mouton  au  natnrel,  lea  quatres  sanci^res 
gamies  des  sauces  et  garnitures  suivantes, 

Remotilade  blanche  au  Jut  (TEehalo^ 

a  la  Rifofme.  ^  la  Palestine. 

Bis  d'Agneau  Piqu^ 
auxpoinies  d'Aiper^ea.  aux  Caneombres. 

Quenelles  de  Pluviers 
a  la  PSrigneux  au  Felouie  de  Oihier 

ttux  champiffnone,  a  la  Financiered 


aujua  d^Oramge, 


Filets  de  Gaoetons 


Dettx  Eons. 


aux  petile  pots. 


i- 


99' 

t 


Les  Cailles  aux  feuilles  de  vignes. 
Jeunes  Dindonneaux  aux  cressons. 


Six  Entkbmets. 


La  Gel^  de  Fruit  demi 
chaud  froid  marbr6. 

Aspcrges^la 
HoUandaise. 

Maniveau  de  Champignons 
en  surprise  ^  la  crme. 


Petites  Goquilles 
aux  huttres. 

Galantine  de  Poussin 
k  la  YoH^re. 

Charlotte  de  Praises 
aunoyeao. 


Dbux  Eeleyxs. 


Gateau  Britannique  k  rAmiraL 
Croquettes  de  Macaroni  au  fromage  de  Stilton. 


608 


DINER  LUCULLUSIAN  A  LA  SAMPAYO. 

I  BEG  to  present  to  my  Readers  a  copy  of  the  Bill-of-fare  of 
the  most  redierche  dinner  I  ever  dressed,  which  the  liberal- 
ity and  epicurean  taste  of  the  gentleman  who  gave  it,  to  a 
select  party  of  connoiseurs,  enabled  me  to  procure ;  he  wish* 
ing  me  to  get  him  a  first-rate  dinner,  and  spare  no  expense 
in  procuring  the  most  novel,  luxurious,  and  rare  edi- 
bles to  be  obtained  at  this  extravagant  season  of  the  year ; 
I,  therefore,  much  to  his  satisfaction,  placed  before  him 
and  his  guests  the  following :  (see  p.  609). 

I  had  also  proposed  the  following  dish  to  the  party, 
which  was  accepted,  but  which  I  was  unable  to  obtain  fiom 
Paris  on  acconnt  of  a  change  in  the  weather  preventing 
their  arrival,  the  articles  being  two  dozen  o(  ortolans ;  hav- 
ing already  procured  twelve  of  the  largest  and  finest  truffles 
I  could  obtain,  it  was  my  intention  to  have  dug  a  hole  in 
each,  into  which  I  should  have  placed  one  of  the  birds, 
and  covered  each  with  a  piece  of  lamb's  or  calf's  caul,  then 
to  have  braised  them  half  an  hour  in  good  stock  made  from 
fowl  and  veal,  with  half  a  pint  of  Lachiyma  Christi  added ; 
then  to  have  drained  them  upon  a  doth,  placed  a  border  of 
poached  foix^emeat  upon  the  dish,  built  the  truffles  in  pyra- 
mid, made  a  puree  with  the  truffle  dug  from  the  interior, 
using  the  stock  rednced  to  a  demi-glace  and  poured  over, 
roasted  the  twelve  remaining  ortdans  before  a  sharp  fire, 
with  which  I  should  have  garnished  the  whole  round,  and 
served  very  hot. 


609 


erf 
I 


REFORM  CLUB. 


9  Mai,  1846. 


Diner  pour  10  Persannes. 


Potage  k  la  Comte  de  Paris. 
Do.  It  la  pur6e  d'Asperges. 


Deux  Poiflsons. 


Saumoii  de  Seveme 
kla  Mizarin. 


Rougets  grating* 
k  la  Montesquieu. 


Deux  ReleT^ 


Le  Chapon  ford  de  Foie  gras  a  la  Nelson. 
Saddleback  d'Agneau  de  Maison  4  la  S^vign^. 


? 


Quatre  Hors-d'oeuvres  h,  la  Fran^aise. 


Las  Oliyes  farcies. 
Then  marine  k  I'ltalienne. 


Salade  d'Anchois  histori^e. 
Sardines  k  I'Huile  de  Noisette. 


Quatre  Entries. 

Saut^  de  Filets  de  Yolaille  k  r  Ambassadrice. 
Petites  Croustades  de  Beurre  aux  Laitances  de  Maquereaux 
Cotelettes  de  Mouton  Galloise  a  la  R^forme. 
Turban  de  Ris  de  Veau  pur^  de  Concombres. 


Deux  Rdts. 

Les  Dotrelles  aux  FeuiUes  de  Vignes. 
Le  Buisson  d'Ecrerisse  Pagodatique,  au  Yin 
de  Champagne  h.  la  Sampayo. 


LaGel^  de  Dantadc 
aux  firnits  Pnntaniers. 
Les  petits  Pois  nouveaux 
k  rAnglo-Fran9ais. 

Les  grosses  Truffes 
k  Tesaence  deMadere. 


Les  Croquantes  d'Amandes 
pralines  aux  Abricots. 
Le  Miroton  de  Homard  aux 
(Euft  de  PluTiers. 
La  Creme  mousseuse  au 
Curasao. 


Deux  Relev^. 

La  Hib'e  de  Sanglier  demi-glac^, 

gamie  de  Champignons  en  surprise. 

Les  Diablotins  au  fromage  de  Windsor. 


39 


610  DINER  LTJCULLUSIAN. 


[NoTB.  The  tradespeople  receiyed  their  ordera  a  week  previoos  to  the  diimer. 
The  finest  mullets  I  eyer  saw,  as  well  as  the  Seyem  salmoii,  were  obtained 
at  Groye's,  in  Bond  Street ;  the  remainder  of  the  fish  was  from  Ja/s,  Hunger- 
ford  Market.  At  seyen  o'clock  the  *liye  Seyem  salmon  was  brought  to  me,  it 
haying  just  arriyed  direct  from  Gloucester,  and  was  boiled  immediatelj,  being 
just  ten  minutes  before  the  dinner  was  placed  upon  the  table,  and  was  eaten  in 
its  greatest  possible  perfection.    The  finest  of  the  poultiy  came  from  Bailey's, 
Dayis  Street,  Grosyenor  Square,  and  Townsend's,  Charles  Street,  Haymarket. 
The  foies  gras  and  some  yery  fine  fr^h  French  truflles  came  from  Morel's ;  the 
hors^'-ceuyres,  from  Edges  and  Butler's,  Eegent  Street.    The  saddleback  of 
lamb  oame  from  Newland's,  Air  Street,  Fiocadilly,  the  Welsh  mutton  from 
Slater's,  and  the  young  green  peas  and  a  yeiy  ezpensiye  dessert  came  from 
Solomon's,  Goyent  Garden.    My  being  so  minute  in  mentioning  the  name  of 
the  aboye  tradespeople  is  not  to  adyertise  their  fame  in  their  different  speciah'ties, 
as  that  I  belieye  they  haye  already  acquired,  but  merely  to  proye  tiie  trouble 
a  real  gourmet  will  take  to  furnish  his  table,  Mr.  S.  haying  called  many  times 
npon  seyeral  of  them  himself,  preyious  to  this  party  taking  place,  to  ascertain 
what  his  dinner  was  to  be  composed  of.    The  most  ezpensiye  dishes  were 
the  mullets,  the  salmon,  poulardes  ii  la  Nelson,  and,  aboye  all,  the  crawfiah  whidi, 
when  dressed,  coat  iq>wards  of  seyen  guineas.] 


611 


DIALOGUE  CULINAIRE 
EtUre  Lord  M.  H.  et  A.  Sot£R. 

8.  Vous  avez  parfaitement  raison,  Mylord ;  le  titre  de 
goiurmet  n'appartient  qa'a  celui  qui  mange  avec  art,  avec 
sdence,  ayec  ordre,  et  meme  avec  beaucoup  d'ordre. 

Lord  M,  Le  gourmand  n'est  jamais  gourmet ;  Tun  mange 
sans  deguster,  Fautre  deguste  en  mangeant. 

S.  L'homme  fier  et  hautain,  Mylord,  s'occupe  de  son 
diner  par  besoin ;  Fhomme  du  monde,  Epicure  profond,  s'en 
occupe  avec  plaisir. 

Lord  M.  n  est  certain  que  Fon  ne  saurait  donner  trop 
d'attention  a  la  rigide  execution  et  a  Tordre  intelligent 
d'un  diner.  Le  diner  etant  de  chaque  jour,  de  chaque 
saison,  de  chaque  siecle,  est  non  senkment  la  seule  mode 
hereditaire,  mais  aussi  Tame  de  la  sociabilite ;  lisez  Thistoire, 
et  vous  y  verrez  que  de  tous  les  temps,  et  chez  tous  les 
peuples,  le  bien  qui  s'est  fait,  et  quelquefois  le  mal,  fut 
toujours  precede  ou  suivi  d'un  copieux  diner. 

S.  Rien,  n'est  plus  vrai,  Mylord,  que  de  tous  les  plaisirs 
de  la  vie  qui  nous  sont  legues  en  ce  monde,  celui  de  la  table 
est  le  seul  auquel  les  renes  du  char  de  la  vie  n'echappent 
qu'a  regret;  et  souvent,  en  ami  fidele,  ne  les  lache  qu'aux 
abords  du  tombeau;  tandis  que  tous  les  autres  s'epa- 
nouissent  firivolement,  comme  a  la  suite  d'un  beau  prin- 
temps,  et,  en  nous  dSaissant,  couvrent  nos  fronts  radieux 
du  givre  des  ans. 

Lord  M.  n  est  positif  que  deguster  est  une  faculte  de 
tout  age ;  un  vieiUard  de  cent  six  ans,  que  j'ai  beaucoup 
connu,  degustait  parfaitement  alors. 

S.  Nos  cent  degustateurs  demandent  de  continuelles 
etudes,  et  reclament,  sans  cesse,  uu  continuel  changement. 


612  DIALOGUE  CULINAIRB. 

Lord  M.  Le  plus  bel  esprit  manquerait  d'floquenoe  s'il 
negligeait  par  trop  Tordre  de  ses  repas. 

S.  C'est  ce  qui  nous  prouve,  Mjlord,  que  nos  plus 
agreables  sensations  dependent  non  seulement  de  la  nature, 
mais  aussi  du  soin  que  nous  donnons  a  notre  personne. 

Lord  Hf.  Oui,  car  plus  Tame  est  sensible,  plus  la  degus- 
tation  est  feoonde.  Les  sensations  d^gustatives  operent 
avec  autant  d'activite  sur  le  palais  que  le  charme  de  la 
melodie  le  fait  sur  Tome ;  par  exemple,  Thomme  dans  un 
cas  de  folie,  pent  bien  eprouver  le  besoin  de  manger,  mais 
Taction  enchanteresse  de  h  degustation  lui  est  aussi  interdite 
que  la  raison.  * 

8.  Votre  aj^ument  sur  ce  point  est  extremement  juste, 
Mylord.  N'etes-vous  pas  aussi  de  mon  avis,  que  rien  ne 
dispose  mieux  Tesprit  humain  a  des  transactions  amicales, 
qu'un  diner  bien  con^u  et  artistement  pr^are. 

Lord  M.  C'est  ce  qui  m'a  toujours  fait  dire  qu'un  bon 
cmsinier  est  aussi  utile  qu'un  savant  conseiller. 

8.  Je  me  suis  toujours  aper9u,  Mylord,  que  le  palais  le 
plus  fin  etait  le  plus  difficile  a  plaire,  mais  aussi  le  plus 
juste  a  recompenser. 

Lord  M.  Le  choix  des  vins  est  de  haute  importance 
dans  Fordre  d'un  diner;  un  vin  fin,  leger  et  genereux 
protege  le  cuisinier  et  devient  le  bienfaiteur  du  convive. 

8.  Permettez-moi  de  vous  faire  observer,  Mylord,  qu'une 
reunion  gastronomique  sans  dames  est  a  mes  yeux  un  par- 
terre sans  fleurs,  Tocean  sans  flots,  une  flotte  maritime  sans 
voiles. 

Lord  M.  Certes,  de  telles  reunions  sont  le  beroeau  des 
bonnes  moeurs  et  de  la  jovialite,  comme  la  debauche  est  le 
tombeau  de  la  moralite. 


BivoBX  Clxtb,  May  14, 1846. 


mi 

filial 

iifi! 

III 


/ 


DESCRIPTION 


OF  THE 


KITCHEN  OF  THE  REFORM  CLUB. 


AND  8IMPLB  QUIDS  FOB 


FITTING  UP  THE  KITCHENS  OF  THE  VTEALTHT. 


INTRODUCTION. 

The  unexpected  success  my  new  plan  has  met  with  for  the 
building  of  kitchens  since  the  opening  of  the  Reform  Club, 
induced  me  a  few  years  ago  to  publish  a  sectional  plan  of 
it  on  a  large  scale,  which  I  am  happy  to  say  was  very 
successful,  and  met  with  the  approbation  of  all  scientific 
men,  and  of  the  higher  classes  of  society,  having  received 
instructions  since  that  time  to  contrive  and  arrange  nu- 
merous noblemen's  and  gentlemen's  kitchens,  by  adapting 
many  of  my  new  and  simple  discoveries  to  any  shaped 
kitchen  with  the  greatest  facilities,  at  a  very  moderate  ex- 
pense ;  I  therefore  beg  to  present  my  readers  with  the  re- 
duced scale  of  the  plan,  as  well  as  the  correct  measurement 
and  size  of  all  the  apparatus.  I  have  not  the  slightest  hesi- 
tation in  stating  that,  by  the  simple  arrangements  which 
I  am  about  to  submit,  any  kitchen,  large  or  small,  would  be 
easily  benefited  and  improved ;  it  may  also  be  always  kept 
clean  without  much  labour,  the  work  more  carefully  done, 
and  the  appetite  (my  intimate  friend)  will  become  the 
keener.  My  motto  has  always  been  ''  cleanliness  is  the  soul 
of  the  kitchen." 


REFERENCE  TO  THE  PLAN 


OF  THS 


KITCHEN  DEPARTMENT  OF  THE  REFORM  CLUB. 


A.  La  Boucheriei  in  which  all  Jointt  are 

trimmed  for  oookiog. 

B.  The  Meat  and  Game  Larder. 

1.  Table  for  proTiaiona  whkh  are  leadj 

for  dretting. 

2.  Slate  drener,  with  ice  diawen  and 

pickling  tubs  underneath. 

3.  Slate  well  for  aoaking  hams. 

4.  Slate  dresier, similar  to  the  preceding, 

but  larger. 

5.  Vegetable  boxes. 

6.  Slab  for  opening  oytten. 

*^*  The  frame  for  banging  meat,  game, 
&c  u  luspended  from  the  ceiling. 

C.  The  Cold  Meat  and  Sanoe  Larder. 

1.  The  lafo. 

2.  Slate    slab   to  deposit  odld  stocks, 

sauces,  ftc,  and  shelves. 

D.  The  Pastry  and  ConfoctiDnery. 

1.  Marble  slab. 

2.  Mortar. 

3.3.  Diessera  for  dishing  up  the  second 
course,  and  depositing  pastry  and 
confoctionery,  under  which  are 
hot  and  cold  drawers,  lined  with 
tm,  and  having  a  steam-pipe  pass- 
ing behind,  wMch  slighUy  warms 
them ;  these  drawers  are  for  keep- 
ing either  moist  or  dry  whatever 
may  require  to  be  so  kept.  Above 
each  dresser  are  closets. 

E.  Office  du  Chef  de  Cuisine. 

F.  Passage. 

1.  ^h  slab. 

2.  Large  shelf  to  deposit  sanoes,  &c.,  for 

cooling. 

3.  Hour  shelf. 

G.  Open  Yard. 

H.  Lift,  to  hoist  Coals  to  the  Dormitory  De- 
partment. 
I.  Passage. 

J.  Kitchen  Maids'  Dining  Room. 
K.  Roasting  Kitchen. 

1.  Low  French  charcoal  stove. 

2.  Stove. 

3.  Oven  for  gratins,  souffle,  &e. 

4.  Steam  doset. 

5.  ¥lre-place. 

6.  Screen,  with  hot  closets. 

7.  Large  pastry  oven. 

8.  French  charooal  stove  for  vegetables. 

9.  Hot  delivery  window  for  joints  and 

vegetables. 
10.  Mortar. 


1 L  Rack  for  the  spite. 

12.  Dresser. 

13.  Iron  rails  for  moulds  and  coppers. 
L.  The  Vegetehle  Kitchen. 

1.  Table  to  dish  up  vegetables. 

2.  Dresser,  with  steam-pans  for  eooldng 

vegetables. 

3.  Sink  for  washing  vegetables. 

4.  Draining  dresser. 

ft.  Dresser  to  deposit  clean  erodcery. 

6.  Two  sinks  for  washing  plates  and 

dishes,  provided  with  beD-traps  to 
prevent  smdL  Above  is  the  plate- 
rack. 

7.  Delivery  window  lor  crockery. 
M.  The  Scouring  Scullery. 

1.  Two  sinks  for  washing  coppers. 

2.  Scouring  table. 

3.  Dresser  and  draining  board. 

4.  Steam-boiler. 

5.  Large  coal-box. 
N.  The  Butler's  Pantry. 
O.  The  Butler's  Room. 

P.  Fire-proof  Plate  Closet. 

Q.  Passage. 

R.  Lift,  to  convey  Dinners  to  the  Coifoe 

Room. 
S.  Staircaae. 
T.  The  prindpal  Kitchen. 

1.  Table. 

2.  Hot  doset. 

3.  Fire-place. 

4.  Screen  and  closets,  as  in  the  roasting 

kitchen. 

5.  Sideboard  for  siWer  dishes. 

6.  Dre8ser,and8hdvesforooTer8,mouldSr 

&C. 

7.  Low  French  diarcoal  stovefor  large  fish. 

8.  Broiling  stoves. 

9.  A  bain  marie. 

10.  Hot  doset,  to  deposit  fish,  chops,  ACf 

if  required  to  vrait. 

11.  Delivery  window  for  entries. 

12.  Kitchen  derk's  desk. 

13.  A  bain  marie  for  soups  and  sauces,  to 

supply  coffee-room. 

14.  Large  ^nch  diarcoal,  and  gas  stove 
for  made  dishes. 

15.  A  bain  marie  for  soups  and  sauces, 

for  house  dinners. 

16.  Sink. 

17.  Hot  plate  for  dishes  to  be  sent  up  to 

private  dining  room. 

18.  Lift  for  sending  up  dinners* 


KITCHEN  OF  THE  REFORM  CLUB,  &c. 


(a.)   la  BOtJCHEBIE. 


This  essential  part  of  the  kitchen  department  is  complete  in  its  seyeral 
arrangements,  and  one  cannot  help  noticing  that  in  spite  of  the  moderate 
size  of  this  room  everything  is  contrived  with  the  utmost  convenience,  perfect 
ventUation,  and  with  due  economy.  As  this  small  space  is  fully  adequate  to 
the  general  wants  of  this  large  kitchen,  it  must,  therefore,  be  equally  good 
for  one  of  smaller  dimensions.  My  object  not  being  to  fix  die  size  of  all  pri- 
vate boucheries  according  to  this,  it  therefore  must  be  left  to  localities,  and 
the  details  below  may  be  taJcen  as  a  general  principle.  The  length  of  the  room 
is  twelve  feet  by  nine ;  at  the  further  comers  are  two  blocks  to  cut  the  meat 
upon,  which  are  two  feet  in  diameter,  and  two  feet  seven  inches  high,  includ- 
ing the  supporters,  eight  inches  from  the  floor,  giving  facility  to  clean  under- 
neath, also  to  prevent  decay ;  between  the  two  olocks  is  a  patent  scale  of  a 
simple  construction,  and  very  convenient^  upon  which  can  be  weighed  above 
two  hundred  pounds  of  meat  with  great  ease.  On  the  right  and  left  are  two 
tables,  three  inches  thick,  six  feet  six  inches  long,  one  foot  nine  inches  wide, 
and  three  feet  three  inches  high,  with  a  drawer  to  each,  and  a  square  box 
covered  over,  underneath  the  tables,  for  waste  fat,  &c.;  above  the  tables  is  a 
flat  rod  with  small  hooks,  one  inch  and  a  half  lone  and  three  inches  apart, 
upon  wlfich  are  various  sized  meat-hooks ;  all  round  the  room  upon  the  walls 
are  thick  slates,  six  feet  high.  Those  slates  lately  introduced  in  building  I 
would  particularly  recommend  where  coolness  is  required,  and  also  as  being 
very  dean. 

(b.)  pbincifal  lakdee  fob  meat  and  game. 

The  gastronomic  variety  generaUy  collected  in  this  sanctuary  of  taste 
requires  the  utmost  care  and  cleanliness,  the  joints  prepared  for  the  day 
arranged  with  symmetry  and  taste,  so  as  to  present  to  the  eye  the  finest  sides, 
the  same  respecting  the  dressed  meat  dishes  and  cold  poultry,  which  should 
always  be  trimmed  and  garnished  with  fresh  parsley,  ready  to  be  served  up  ae 
a  moment's  notice.  A  good  ventilation,  being  of  the  utmost  importance, 
should  be  particularly  attended  to.  The  following  dimensions  will  greatly 
assist  for  the  contrivance  of  a  larder  perfectly  convement  if  built  with  the  same 
proportions. 

The  size  is  eighteen  feet  long  and  fifteen  feet  wide,  having  on  the  right 
side  a  dresser  fourteen  feet  long,  three  wide,  and  two  feet  ten  inches  high,  the 
top  is  of  slate  one  inch  thick,  instead  of  wood,  which  is  an  excellent  substi- 
tute, and  always  covered  with  a  dresser  doth ;  there  are  eight  ice  drawers 
opening  on  castors,  when  large  and  deep  as  these,  it  is  advisable  to  make  them 
in  a  similar  manner  running  on  castors,  as  their  weight  would  otherwise 
cause  them  to  open  with  difficulty.  The  first  four  are  two  feet  eight  inches 
square  and  nine  inches  deep,  lined  with  lead,  and  prindpally  for  jellies,  ice 
creams,  &c.,  the  others  beneath  are  deeper,  for  pickling-tubs ;  the  tempera- 
ture is  from  thirty-five  to  forty  degrees,  allowing  comestibles  of  the  most 
ddicate  kind  to  be  kept  a  considerable  time  without  deteriorating  their  qua- 
lities.    The  construction  of  those  drawers  is  considered  ingenious ;  the  hot- 


QlD  KITCHEN    OP 

torn  being  indined  on  emcb  side  towirda  the  middle,  tU^  fiimu  a  rh^ntirl. 
«t  the  end  of  vhich  there  i>  >  ■mall  dnin  to  let  the  ice  wmter  eanpe  vithont 

M«Utance  of  hands,  hi   ' 

niuK  into  other  pipea  o 
On  the  left  going  in  there  ii  another  aideboard  of  the  aame  material,  eight 
feet  and  a  half  long  and  two  feet  vide,  there  are  six  dravera  all  of  them  lined 
with  lead,  and  (which  might  be  called  ■imply  ice-preaerrera,  being  almost 
free  from  air,  and  only  now  and  then  refreshed  with  ice  at  a  trifling  ezpenae) 
from  five  to  six  inchea  thick,  covered  with  a  linc  piste  to  fit  the  drawer,  and 
a  eloth  over  it  (br  chopa,  ateak^,  aspica,  eutf^ea,  and  a  variety  of  thioga 
always  kept  Avah  and  t«nder ;  the  woodcat  below  gives  the  exact  form  of  tne 
drawera  a«  described  above.  It  will  be  worth  consideration  to  adc^t  the 
plan  in  all  larders,  as  they  certainly  have  the  several  advantages  of  preaerving 
ice  for  a  long  time,  and  keeping  in  readiness  any  sort  of  prepared  disbes,  and 
even  the  flaronr  of  fruit  to  pernction. 


ICE  DBAWEBi  um  DuuazB. 

At  the  end  of  this  sideboard  is  a  state  well,  three  feet  nx  inches  long,  tvo 
feet  wide,  a&d  one  foot  deep,  supplied  with  hot  and  cold  water ;  this  vr^  ia 
naed  for  soaking  ham^  tongues,  and  calTs  head  (  adjoining  is  a  slab  for  opeiH 
ing  oysters,  nnder  which  is  a  well  to  keep  them  in. 

In  the  middle  of  the  larder  is  a  dresser-table,  ten  feet  long  and  two  feet 
fonr  iaches  wide,  covered  with  a  tablecloth,  to  depose  fresh  provisions  ready 
for  the  day's  dressing. 

On  the  right  going  in  are  fixed  divisions,  boxes  made  of  slate,  fi>r  vege- 
tables, very  simple  and  very  nsefol,  each  having  sliding  fronta  of  wood  to 
facilitate  cleaning.  The  first  row  is  ten  feet  long,  divided  into  eleven  parta, 
namely,  five  of  one  foot  one  inch  opening  and  eight  inchea  deep,  ux  inches 
high  in  front,  and  ten  inches  at  the  back,  the  other  six  are  amaller ;  the 
lower  divisions  are  for  large  vegetables,  and  consequently  of  greater  dimen- 
sions, divided  into  seven  boxes,  five  of  which  are  one  foot  seven  inches  deep, 
nine  inches  high  in  front,  and  one  foot  five  inches  at  the  badi,  with  one  foot 
five  inches  opening,  the  other  two  are  for  potatoes. 

The  whole  appearance  of  the  above  boxes  ia  agreeable,  for  you  see  at  once 
all  the  various  productions  of  the  kitchen  garden  the  most  in  season,  and 
kept  separate.    There  i>  something  new  in  the  plan  which  might  eaaily  be 


THE  KEFORM  CLUB.  617 

adopted.  It  J*  Temukably  clean  and  cool.  Too  often  vegetables  are  kept 
in  draven,  or  mixed  together  in  any  comers ;  where  as  if  fitted  in  this  atyle, 
a  gardener  or  greetigrocer,  without  asking  what  is  wanted,  can  obserre  it  at 
once,  and  repleaishea  all  empty  boxes,  seeing  actually  what  is  required  and 
not  aapplying  by  guess. 


VtaxTi^JX  BOXES. 

On  the  ceiling  suspended  by  fixed  iron  rods  is  a  lai^  frame  ten  feet  long, 
and  ail  wide,  divided  into  three  ports,  hav  ng  eight  iron  rods,  one  on  eadi 
side  of  the  transverae  battens  to  hang  up  the  joints,  game,  poultry,  &c. ; 


HEAT    BOOK. 


SUBrEKSBS   FBAKE   FOK  MEAT,    OAHE,    ETC. 


by  meana  of  loose  and  moveable  hooka  tinned  over  of  a  particular  form,  very 
easy  to  remove  from  and  hook  on  the  frame  with  the  joints  or  other  article 
upon  it,  by  the  aid  of  a  long  handle  with  a  double  hook,  there  beiog  a  hole 


618  KITCHEN  OF 

in  thf  centre  of  the  meat  hook  for  ttM  pnrpoM,  thus  RToidiog 
nnncWMtry  holei  in  the  meat. 

(c.)  ThxCou)  Heat  AND  Sauce  Lardkr.  Thu  room,  dose  to  the  other, 
u  thirteen  feet  long  and  eleven  feet  wide ;  on  the  rigfat  is  m  meat-Mfe  con- 
•tmcted  on  ■  new  principle  for  keeping  cold  meat,  nnd  by  vhich  flies  are 
■Ivnys  eiclnded.  The  doon  by  a  simple  oontrivance  open  tnd  ahst  u  it 
were  by  thenueWea,  by  meana  of  «  conl  and  a  weight,  which  draws  them, 
the  aame  as  a  sash  rolling  npon  pnllies,  in  a  groove  with  iron  plate*  tn  it, 
through  which  two  pins  are  fixed  six  inches  apart ;  on  pushing  the  door  open 
the  pm  is  raised  nndemeath  tn  stop  it,  and  by  a  retrograde  motion  of  the 
elbow  when  taking  a  dish  out  the  said  pin  drops,  and  the  door  shuts  of  itself, 
it  is  so  qoickly  done  that  there  is  hardly  time  for  a  fly  to  get  in  , besides  the 
wiiea  are  so  dooe  that  the  impediment  is  complete,  in  addition  to  that  an 
esceUent  current  of  air  always  prevails.  The  meat-aafe  is  four  feet  high,  atx 
feet  wide,  and  three  feet  deep,  with  two  shelves  inside  ;  nnder  it,  between  the 
bottom  and  the  floor,  is  a  shdf  for  jsra  and  kitchen  bajuna,  ftc. 


On  the  oppoute  side  is  a  slate  dresser  eleven  feet  long  and  two  feet  three 
inches  wide,  with  a  skirting  all  along,  seven  inches  high  ;  nndemeath  at  the 
flirther  end  is  a  cupboard,  three  feet  long,  with  shelves  for  china,  by  the  side 
is  a  shelf  for  jars,  &c. ;  above  the  dresser  there  are  two  shelves  the  whole 
length  and  two  feet  wide,  for  preserves  and  bottles  and  jars  of  all  sizes. 

(d.)  Pastbt  and  Confectionert.  This  important  part  of  the  kitchen 
department  may  appear  small  at  first  view,  being  only  eight  feet  long  and 
thirteen  feet  wide,  but  the  arrangement  is  in  every  respect  perfectly  conve- 
nient. A  marble  slab,  five  feet  nine  inches  long  sjid  three  feet  wide,  on  a  level 
with  the  window,  with  two  ice-drawers  beneath,  one  for  butter  and  eggs,  aud 


THE  REFORM  CLUB.  61fl 

the  other  for  prcMiring  raiotia  forcemeats,  sahid,  sances,  Ac,  ia  soffideut 
for  the  Tork  of  two  pastrycooks.     On  the  right  is  a  marble  mortar,  with  a 
long-handled  pestle  going  throngh   a  ring  fixed   in  the  wall,  and  on  the 
left  a  floui^bin  covered.      Underneath  are  divisions    for  scales,    weights, 
and  Bimdrj  iniplement^  on  the  right  and  left  are 
dressers,  two  feet  and  a  half  wide,  with  two  rows  of 
drawers,  where  rolling-pins,  cutters  for  all  Icinda  of 
p*Btry,  and  sngar-sieTes  are  kept.     Above,  at  one 
foot  four  inches  from  the  dresser,  are  closets,  one 
foot  six  inches  in  depth  and  eight  feet  frontage,  with 
three  sUding  doors.     Within  are  divisions  to  pot 
aws^  &ncT  omamentsl  pieces  and  asefol  articles 
and  ingrements  for  that  tasty  department ;  in  this 
ae  well  as  in  the  other  three  rooms  there  ia  an  admi- 
rable coolness,  absolately  necessary  for  the  making 
of  pastry,  and  preserving  it  when  completed.     Any 
pastry  or  entremct  whidi  reqiiires  to  be  kept  dry, 
sach  aa  meringnes,  maccaroons,  almond  paste,  &c., 
mnst  be  kept  u  k  closet  in  the  kitchen. 

(e.)  Hzas  Cook's  Office  and  Fabloos.  This 
room,  nineteen  feet  long  and  thirteen  feet  wide,  ia 
conveniently  situated  on  the  same  floor  with  the 
others,  and  very  handy  by  its  proximity  to  the 
kitchen  i  it  is  well  fitted  up  with  a  closet  for  su- 
perior preserves  and  all  kinds  of  new  light  kitchen 
ntetudla. 

raSTLl  AMD  KOBTAX. 

(p.)  Pabsaob.  This  space  is  three-and-tlurty  feet  long  and  nine  feet  wid^ 
dinding  the  rooms  above  described  (Vom  the  kitchen,  although  a  passage,  it  is 
particolarly  useful ;  on  the  li^ht  from  the  second  Isrder,  and  immediately  nnder 
the  stairs,  there  is  fixed  a  white  marble  slab,  fonr  feet  long  and  three  feet  three 


inehea  in  width,  suirounded  with  a  slate  border  of  three  ioches  in  hoght,  the 
slab  is  used  for  keepine  freehand  cool  all  theflsh  brought  in  for  use;  at  the  ex- 
tremity of  Ihe  slab,  which  is  ao  inclined  plane,  there  is  an  horizontal  shower- 


620  KITCHKN  OF 

pnpe  mipplied  with  iced  water  f^m  a  ciatem  above.  On  the  opposite  aide, 
all  along  the  wall,  there  ia  an  hour  ahelf,  thirteen  feet  and  a  half  long  asd  one 
foot  BIX  inches  wide,  divided  by  nomben  showing  the  hour  when  diahea  are 
to  be  oookedy  which  ia  from  five  to  eight  at  night. 

Upon  the  uune  line  on  the  left  ia  another  draaer,  four  feet  and  a  half  long 
and  three  feet  wide,  to  cool  aaaoea  and  stock  before  they  are  removed  to  the 
second  larder  to  be  put  by  the  aide  of  those  already  cooled ;  a  rule  I  would  re- 
commend, because  tne  fermentation  of  hot  sauces  or  stock  would  a£fect  those 
in  the  second  larder  if  put  there  whilst  hot. 

At  the  end  of  the  passage  on  the  right,  and  above  the  kitchen  door,  ia  a 
ventilating  screen  four  feet  square ;  it  is  a  simple  fnme  with  two  cross-pieces 
covered  with  canvas,  and  fixed  horizontally  above  the  door,  with  hinffea  so  as 
to  move  it  up  and  down  at  will,  which  is  done  by  means  of  a  cora  nailed 
in  the  middle  of  the  frame  and  passed  through  two  pullies  fixed  in  the  ceiling, 
and  tied  with  hooks  on  the  wall  opposite ;  you  make  use  of  the  cord  the  same 
as  for  a  Venetian  blind,  the  only  difference  is,  that  you  keep  moving  it  up 
and  down  all  the  time  required  to  diminish  the  heat  of  the  kitchen.  No  one 
would  suppose,  without  seeing  it  perform,  what  surprising  effect  this  simple 
contrivance  produces,  as  the  ascending  movement  draws  away  the  heat  from 
the  kitchen  into  the  passage,  and  introduces  fresh  air  into  it  perfectly  un- 
expected ;  it  is  only  on  particular  occasions,  and  in  the  heat  of  summer  that  it 
is  made  use  of,  as  the  ventilation  of  this  kitchen  is  everything  that  can  be 
wished  for,  it  was  more  as  a  model  for  confined  kitchens  that  I  have  applied 
this  extra-ventilating  screen. 

(g.)  a  smsU  back  ysrd,  nine  feet  long  and  seven  feet  wide,  separated  from 
the  passage  by  a  glass  partition  and  doors,  wherein  are  deposited  various  things 
for  kitchen  use,  and  ice  creams  frozen. 

(h.)  In  the  small  passage  leading  to  the  roasting  kitchen  there  is  a  lift  worked 
by  steam,  to  hoist  coals  to  the  sleeping-rooms ;  and  a  gas-meter  inclosed  in  a 
wooden  box  for  the  supply  of  the  gas-stoves  in  the  principal  kitchen. 

(i.)  Passage  leading  to  and  from  the  roasting  kitchen. 

(j.)  The  kitchen-maids'  dining-room,  eight  feet  square,  fitted  with  drawers^ 
tables,  closets,  &c. ;  the  entrance  in  the  passage  above  mentioned. 

(k.)  Boasting  Kitchen.  On  entering  into  this  room  you  see  in  a  direct 
line  the  vegetable  kitchen  and  the  scullery.  On  the  left  there  is  a  low  cast- 
iron  French  stove  for  boiling  large  joints  and  making  stock  which  has  been 
previously  boiled  on  a  quick  fire,  and  removed  there  to  simmer  gently ;  this 
stove  is  two  feet  seven  inches  long,  two  feet  nine  inches  wide,  and  one  foot 
nine  inches  high,  and  is  purposely  made  low  on  account  of  the  great  wei^t 
lifted  on  and  off.  In  the  centre  is  a  grate,  one  foot  square,  for  charcoal. 
Contiguous  to  it  is  another  cast-iron  stove,  or  hot  plate,  the  waste  fire  of  which 
heats  the  small  oven  for  gratins,  souffles,  &c.  (see  opposite).  It  is  five  feet  long 
by  two  feet  nine  inches  wide,  and  the  same  in  height.  At  the  end,  on  a  line 
with  the  fire-place,  is  the  steam-closet,  six  feet  high,  four  feet  and  a  half 
wide,  and  two  feet  deep,  forming  three  shelves  with  the  bottom  to  keep  the 
dishes  very  hot  as  weU  as  the  roasts  ;  near  it  is  the  large  roasting  fire-place, 
six  feet  and  a  half  wide  and  five  feet  and  a  half  high.  The  grate  is  five  feet 
wide  and  three  feet  high,  and  very  shallow,  giving  a  great  heat  at  a  compa- 


THE  RE70EH  CLUB. 


ratirely  small  expenae ;  a  boiler  it  at  the  beck,  which  holds  one  hundred 
gallona  of  water  always  hot,  and  amply  sufficient  for  all  kitchen  porpoM* ; 
the  salamander  is  also  easily  and  quickly  heated  at  the  same  fire  without  in- 


CSAKCOAI.  S10TB  AXD  HOI  PUTB. 

lerferina;  with  the  roasts,  having  a  place  formed  in  the  fh>nt  of  the  grate  pur- 
posely for  its  reception. 

In  front  of  the  roasting  fire-place  is  a  closet-screen,  aix  feet  wide,  two  feet 
deep,  and  six  feet  high,  to  keep  all  joints  very  wann.  The  plan  of  this 
screen  differs  from  the  common  ones  ;  the  back,  fronting  the  fire,  is  coTcred 
with  iron  sheeting ;  the  frvnt  shuts  in  with  sliding  doors,  forming  two  sepa- 
rate closets,  the  top  being  only  sixteen  inches  high,  and  the  lower  fonr  feet 
high,  with  two  iron  gn^  shelves;  the  doors  being  kept  ihnt,  there  is 
always  a  regular  heat.  What  renders  this  screen  a  perfect  desideratum,  are 
the  two  folmng  leaves  at  each  end,  fastened  with  hin^s  and  completely  in- 
closing  the  fire,  thereby  preventing  the  smoke  escapmg,  and  also  the  heat 
bma  being  felt  even  close  to  the  screen  ;  and  the  advantage  of  the  whole  is, 
that  notwithstanding  the  immense  fire,  presenting  a  surface  of  fifteen  feet 
square,  no  inconvenience  resnlta  from  it.     (See  Cnt,  page  622). 

Lower  down  is  a  lai^  cast-iron  oven  for  pastry,  six  feet  nine  inches  high, 
fiiur  feet  nine  inches  wide,  divided  into  two  parts,  one  above  the  other,  each 
of  two  feet  opening,  one  foot  nine  inches  high,  and  two  feet  six  inches  deep, 
with  grated  shelves. 

Joining  the  oven  there  is  a  French  stove,  three  feet  two  inches  long  and 
two  feet  four  inches  wide,  with  one  grating,  to  binl  delicate  v^tables. 

Above,  in  the  thickness  of  the  wall,  is  a  cistern  two  feet  long,  two  feet 
four  inches  deep,  and  one  foot  wide,  to  keep  the  large  boiler  oehind  the 
roasting  fire-grate  constauUy  supplied  with  water. 

Opposite  is  a  sash  window,  by  which  roasts  and  vegetables  for  the  coffee- 
room  are  handed  to  the  waiters ;  beneath  the  window  is  a  closet  for  plates  and 


022  KITCHKN  OF 

diihM,  the  top  of  wluch  ia  of  cut-iron  and  VRrmed  by  itcam,  thoa  disbea  ar* 
ramoTed  bom  one  hot  pUce  to  another  until  they  reach  their  dndnatioa  ;  the 
length  ia  four  feet  aleTen  inchw,  and  two  feet  deep,  with  a  ibeet^ion  shdf 
inaide. 


KOIATIHG  EASOE. 

On  the  right  ride  of  ttiia  doiet  is  a  marble  mortar  of  twenty  inches  dia- 
meter, RorTonnded  with  wood-work  and  forming  a  pedestal,  the  pestle  with  k 
long  handle  passes  throatfh  s  ring  fastened  in  the  wall,  fonr  feet  abore. 

Near  to  the  above  is  the  iron  rack  to  huig  np  all  the  spits  and  other  im- 

Elemeats.  It  consists  of  two  half  rings,  to  each  of  which  are  Attached  scroll 
ooks  The  hook  on  the  upper  ring  supports  the  wheel  end  of  a  spit,  and  the 
lower  hook  holds  the  point. 

Further  on,  next  to  the  door  leading  to  the  principal  kitchen,  is  a  dresser, 
eight  feet  long  sud  two  feet  wide,  to  unspit  the  roasted  joints  or  other 
purposes. 

(li.)  Vegstablk  KiTCHBN.  At  the  end  of  the  roasting  kitchen,  and  only 
divided  by  an  arch  twelve  feet  in  span,  you  enter  this  room,  fiAeen  feet  long 
and  siiteeu  wide ;  in  the  centre  is  a  deu  table,  nine  teet  long  and  two  feet 
two  inches  wide,  with  drawers. 

Od  the  left,  npou  a  wide  shelf,  ore  three  steam-boilers,  two  of  them  square. 


THE  REFORM  CLUB.  623 

to  eook  potatoes,  and  the  other  for  steaming  puddings,  &c. ;  the  square  ones 
might  be  taken  as  models,  they  are  one  foot  five  inches  square,  and  one  foot 
high,  divided  into  four  pa^,  forming  four  distinct  compartments  in  one. 

The  round  boiler  is  fifteen  inches  in  diameter.  The  front  of  the  shelf  has 
a  groove  under  the  tap  of  the  steamers  to  let  out  the  water  produced  by  the 
steam,  which  runs  into  the  sink ;  a  draining-board  is  next  to  the  steamers, 
where  vegetables  are  deposited  after  they  are  washed. 

Next  is  the  vegetable  sink,  three  feet  nine  inches  long,  two  feet  six  inches 
wide,  and  one  foot  eight  inches  deep,  with  two  taps  for  hot  and  cold  water. 
Against  the  glass  partition,  on  each  side  of  the  door  which  leads  to  the 
scullery,  are  two  dressers,  six  feet  long  and  two  feet  four  inches  wide,  with 
four  open  divisions  under  each,  for  sundry  articles  of  kitchen  utensils.  On 
the  right  are  two  sinks,  three  feet  six  inches  long,  two  feet  six  inches  wide, 
and  one  foot  six  inches  deep,  for  washing  dishes,  having  two  taps  each,  for 
hot  and  cold  water. 

Above  is  a  plate-rack,  eleven  feet  long  and  one  foot  deep,  to  dry  plates  and 
dishes. 

On  the  right  side  of  the  sinks  is  a  delivery  window  with  a  closet  beneath, 
four  feet  long  and  two  feet  wide,  serving  as  a  dresser,  from  which  clean  plates 
and  dishes  are  sent  to  the  coffee-room. 

(m.)  The  Scouring  Scullery  and  Steam  Boiler.  This  room,  on  a  level 
with  tiie  vegetable  kitchen,  is  thirteen  feet  long  and  seventeen  feet  wide  ;  on 
the  left  is  a  large  dresser,  or  draining-board,  with  grooves,  six  feet  long  and 
three  feet  and  a  half  wide,  to  dry  aU  the  coppers  sd^r  being  scoured ;  under 
it  are  large  drawers.  Above  are  two  shelves  Axe  whole  length  of  the  room  for 
lam  pans  and  coppers. 

Next  to  the  dresser  are  two  large  sinks,  three  feet  and  a  half  long,  two  and 
a  half  wide,  and  one  foot  and  a  half  deep,  with  two  taps  for  hot  and  cold 
water. 

Against  the  window,  and  dose  to  the  sink,  is  a  thick  scouring  table,  three 
feet  by  two,  with  a  box  underneath  for  sand,  &c. 

On  the  right  is  the  steam  boiler,  eight  feet  three  inches  long,  six  feet  wide, 
and  five  feet  high,  surrounded  with  bricks,  and  by  which  large  closets,  baina 
mariea,  plates  for  delivery-windows  and  tables,  are  heated,  lai^e  coppers  sup- 
plied with  steam  for  cooking ;  also  dressing-rooms,  hathfi,  and  closets  in  vari- 
ous parts  of  the  house. 

The  appearance  of  these  three  rooms,  each  for  a  different  purpose,  forms, 
as  it  were,  only  one  room,  well  lighted,  very  cool,  extremely  convenient,  and 
without  the  least  concision. 

Tn.)  Butler's  Pantry.  A  large  room,  twenty-four  feet  long  and  seventeen 
wide,  including  private  room,  with  a  fire-place,  cupboards,  sink,  and  plenty  of 
water ;  a  large  table  is  in  the  middle,  where  everything  belonging  to  his  de* 
partment  is  prepared. 

(o.)  Butler's  Office.  Well  fitted  up,  and  very  convenient  from  its  proxi- 
mi^  to  the  pantry  and  plate  closet« 

(p.)  Iron  closet  for  plate,  fire-proof. 

(a.)  A  large  passage  leading  out,  and  also  to  the  back  staircase,  to  the 
coffee-room. 


(m.)  A  lift,  by  which  dinner*  an  conveyed  to  the 
•teun  or  by  handi. 


THB  suraKK  un. 
(h.)  The  back  Bturcase  for  Berruits. 

(t.)  Puncifal  Eitchkn  .  The  nze  of  this  kitchen  is  twenty-ei^t  fleet  long 
and  twenty-four  wide ;  in  the  middle  is  an  elm  table,  made  on  a  plan  entMy 
oiiEinal,  uavin^  twelve  irregulftr  sides,  and  giving  the  utmost  fiudlity  for  the 
vanouB  works  of  the  kiteben,  without  any  one  interfering  with  another.  The 
principal  length  is  twelve  feet  by  seven  wide,  and  three  mches  thick.  Under 
the  edge  of  tke  table,  in  front,  are  two  sliding  boards,  two  feet  long  and  two 
inches  and  a  half  thick,  which  are  used  for  straining  sauces,  purees,  &c, ;  as 
these  sliding  boards  are  lower  than  the  table  they  are  particolariy  nseful, 
and  save  an  additional  width ;  below  are  two  drawers,  and  at  each  end,  in 
firont,  are  two  little  moveable  copper  buckets  with  water,  handy  for  sponging 
o£F  any  blood  or  mess  left  upon  tiie  board  or  table  after  the  cutting  of  poultry, 
game,  or  fish.  In  the  same  direction  tbere  are  two  columns  supporting 
the  ceiling  and  passing  through  the  table,  round  which,  st  a  convenient 
height,  are  copper  cases  lined  with  tin,  in  ten  compartments,  each  of  which 
contains  every  mgredient  and  chopped  herbs  of  the  seasons  for  flavouring 
dishes,  snob  as  salt,  pepper,  spices,  sweet  herbs,  crumbs  and  rasping  of 
bread,  e^a,  chopped  onions,  &c. ;  the  other  contains  various  sauces  for  fish 
dressed  in  the  English  style.  These  cases  turn  round  at  will  on  castors  fixed 
nnder  it  to  the  column,  so  that,  without  moving  from  your  place,  you  can  get 
every  ingredient  j^ou  may  require ;  the  diameters  of  the  columns  are  one  foot, 
and  the  cases  for  ingredients  project  over  three  inches  and  a  half ;  as  colnmna 
■re  not  always  wanted  to  support  the  ceiling  of  a  kitehen,  the  cases  might 
eaaily  be  introduced  on  the  table  supported  by  a  stand,  turning  in  the  same 
way  as,  and  similar  in  shape  to  a  lamp. 

In  die  middle  of  the  table  ia  a  cast-iron  ateam  closet,  torn  feet  one  indt 


THE  EEFORH  CLOB.  625 

lone,  two  feet  eleven  inches  wide,  and  two  feet  nine  inches  bigh,  with  two 
■liding  doora  on  each  tide,  and  a  shelf  inside  for  keeping  delicate  entries  per- 
fectly good  for  several  hours,  b;  means  of  two  different  degrees  of  heat ; 
aboTe,  five  inches  distant  from  the  top,  is  a  grated  iron  ehelf,  tul  round  npon 
which  are  placed  middle-siied  and  small  etewpans,  supported  at  each  corner 
by  little  balasteiH,  as  it  projects  beyond  the  closet  it  forms  a  cornice  and  gives 
it  an  elegant  appearance.  The  whole  coDthTance  of  this  table  is  much  more 
coavenient  than  might  be  imagined,  by  the  nomber  of  useful  objects  a  common 
table  is  deprived  of;  I  certainly  could  hare  hod  a  table  of  large  dimensions* 
upon  which  great  dinners  might  be  laid  oat,  as  is  commonly  done,  hut  that 
was  precisely  what  I  wished  to  avoid,  finding  it  much  more  to  the  purpose,  as 
soon  as  entree  dishes  are  ready,  to  put  them,  quickly  into  a  warm  place  until 
wanted  to  be  taken  up,  which  is  done  with  regularity  ;  every  dish  being  num- 
bered is  placed  upon  the  table  without  confusion,  and  to  all  appearance  as  if 
the  whole  hsd  just  been  dressed,  an  advantage  seldom  if  ever  at  the  disposal 
of  any  cbef  de  cuisine,  who  generally  finds  it  very  difficult  to  dispose  of  dishes 
in  a  fitting  place  to  keep  them  in  such  a  proper  degree  of  heat  as  1  obtain 
with  the  steam  closet.  Many  culinary  artists  who  nave  seen  it  for  the  first 
time  question  whether  it  is  possible  to  dress  a  dinner  of  sixteen  entries  at 


more  upon  a  table  which  is  to  all  a]>pearance  inadequate  to  the  exigencies 
requirea  ;  the  only  answer  I  can  give  is,  that  since  I  have  made  use  of  it  in 
very  difficult  circumatances,  and  with  well  known  artists,  neither  of  them  or 
those  regularly  employed  in  the  kitchen  of  the  Reform  Club  have  found  any- 
thing contrary  to  good  order,  celerity,  and  comfort  in  preparing  everything 
wanted  for  a  large  dinner;  therefore  I  do  not  hesitale  to  recommend  the  above 
improvement  in  whatever  kitchen  it  may  be,  according  to  its  several  localities. 

*  I  consider  too  large  a  table  to  be  as  bod  na  too  large  a  kitchen,  in  irhich  mut^ 
time  is  lost  in  the  cleamng,  and  more  in  running  aboat  for  articles  required  Tot  ue« 

40 


626  KITCHEN   OF 

On  the  right  hand  side  of  the  Uble  is  a  roasting  fire-place,  piinoipallj  used 
for  game  and  poultry,  on  a  plan  entirely  new,  the  size  ia  seven  feet  iride  and 
five  feet  six  inches  high,  the  bars  are  perpendicular  and  vertical,  opening  at  one 
end,  and  supported  upon  castors,  which  allows  the  cleaning  of  it  with  much 
more  ease,  and  affords  access  for  the  repairing  of  the  boiler  without  pulling 
down  any  of  the  works  around  it ;  at  the  back  of  the  stove  in  front  of  the  boiler 
are  thick  Welsh  lumps,  by  which  hot  water  can  be  obtained  twenty-four  hours 
after  the  fire  is  put  out.  The  great  advantage  of  this  range  is,  that  from  the 
smallest  bird  to  the  largest  joint,  even  a  baron  of  beef  can  be  cooked  to  per- 
fection, although  there  is  only  four  inches  and  a  half  depth  of  coals.  As  the 
consumption  of  this  article  is  much  less  in  a  grate  built  on  this  principle,  I 
expect  that  the  old  style  of  grates  will  disappear.  Another  advantage  is, 
that  broiling  can  be  done  in  a  very  superior  style,  by  means  of  a  doable 
gridiron  suspended  from  an  extending  bracket  hooked  over  the  top  bar  ;  for 
which  see  my  Kitchen  of  the  Bachelor. 

On  the  left,  in  the  thickness  of  the  wall,  is  a  small  cistern  to  supply  the 
boiler  with  water  as  it  is  drawn  out  hot  on  the  right  hand  side. 

A  screen  closet  is  placed  before  this  fire,  drawn  on  castors,  seyen  feet  long, 
six  feet  high,  and  two  feet  wide,  having  two  grated  shelves  for  dishes,  and 
open  to  the  fire,  with  sliding  doors  and  flaps,  the  same  as  the  one  described 
in  the  roasting  kitchen. 

Turning  your  back  to  the  fire-place,  on  the  right  is  a  recess,  ten  feet  high, 
ten  wide,  and  two  and  a  half  deep,  forming  an  elliptic  arch,  in  which  is  fixed 
a  dresser  used  for  silver  dishes,  &c.,  previous  to  a  large  dinner ;  underneath 
are  four  drawers  for  small  kitchen  utensils,  and  above  the  dresser  three 
shelves  for  tinned  iron  saucepans ;  in  the  front  of  the  shelves  are  suspended 
covers  of  various  sizes  and  ku*ge  preserve-pans. 

On  the  right,  in  another  recess,  six  feet  four  inches  high,  four  feet  three 
inches  wide,  and  two  feet  and  a  half  deep,  there  is  also  a  dresser,  above  it 
large  dish  covers. 

In  the  recess  of  the  same  size  on  the  left  is  fixed  a  low  cast-iron  charcoal 
stove  for  boiling  large  fish,  which  is  only  used  when  large  fish  are  required 
to  be  stewed  or  boiled ;  when  not  in  use  for  that  purpose  it  is  covered  with  a 
thick  board  elevated  one  foot  above,  being  supported  upon  four  strong  feet 
in  wood,  thus  fonning  a  dresser  upon  which  to  deposit  any  article  previous 
to  its  being  dressed  at  the  broiling  or  fish  stoves ;  on  each  side  are  tin 
drainers  for  kitchen  spoons,  &c.,  higher  up  are  two  rows  of  hooks  for  large 
dish  covers ;  the  whole  appearance  of  that  side  is  pleasing  to  the  eye,  by  the 
number  of  various  articles  to  be  seen,  its  regularity,  and  the  brilliant  cleanli- 
ness of  everything.  Facing  the  fire-place  is  a  large  cast  iron  stove,  heated 
with  coals,  twelve  feet  five  inches  long,  and  two  feet  ten  inches  wide,  divided 
into  five  parts,  two  of  them  are  used  for  broiling  steaks,  cotelettes,  &c.,  and 
the  others  to  boil  and  fry  fish.  On  a  compass  brass  rod,  and  moveable,  is 
fixed  a  fire-screen  obliquely  at  the  end,  to  prevent  the  heat  injuring  the  eyes, 
and  at  the  same  time  acting  as  a  reflector  in  the  interior  of  saucepans  on  the 
stove  if  required.  At  the  extremity  of  the  stove  is  a  bain  marie,  two  feet  eight 
inches  square,  and  seven  inches  deep,  principally  for  keeping  fish-sauces  hot. 

Next  is  a  cast  iron  steam  closet,  four  feet  seven  inches  vride,  two  feet  two 
inches  deep,  divided  into  three  parts,  the  two  shelves  are  of  iron,  two  inches 
and  a  half  thick,  therein  are  deposited  all  the  fish  dressed  and  waiting  to  be 
taken  up. 

Near  it  is  another  closet,  five  feet  and  a  half  long  and  two  wide,  warmed 


THE  REFORM  CLUB.  627 

also  by  at«sio,  with  Bliding  doora  for  duoa  disheB  and  covers  -,  the  top,  which 
is  on  a  level  with  the  delivery  window,  is  of  cast  iron  and  heated  by  the  same 
means,  therefore  every  dish  from  the  time  they  are  dressed  up  to  the  time 
they  reach  their  destination,  keeps  moving  {torn  one  place  to  another  in  or 
upon  places  kept  hot  for  that  purpose. 

In  the  comer  next  to  delivery  window  is  the  desk  for  the  clerk  of  the 
kitchen,  the  size  is  four  feet  long  and  three  feet  wide,  with  a  seat,  all  the 
orders  are  sent  from  the  dining-room  by  a  wooden  pipe  of  commuaication, 
and  at^r  each  dinner  is  served  the  bill  is  sent  up  in  the  same  way.  Every 
dish  is  called  for  by  the  clerk  at  the  hour  ordered.  On  his  left  are  three 
voice  conductors  witli  belle  communicating  to  all  parts  of  the  club  where 
culinary  services  are  required.  Turning  to  the  left  is  the  large  and  principal 
French  stove,  fifteen  feet  three  inches  long  by  three  feet  nine  inches  wide. 


beginning  with  a  bain  marie  two  feet  and  a  half  square,  wanned  by  steam, 
with  two  taps  for  hot  and  cold  water.  This  bain  marie  is  for  soups  and 
sauces  especially  prepared  for  the  coffee-room.  By  the  side  is  a  column  sup- 
porting tne  ceiung,  round  it  at  a  proper  height  are  three  rows  of  hooks  for 
nyingpan  covers,  spoons,  forks,  skimming  ladles.  Sic-  Along  the  stove  at 
back  is  the  coping  wall  separating  the  two  kitchens,  on  which  are  fixed 
two  grated  iron  shelves,  upon  which  are  placed  a  number  of  stewpana  and 
moulds  of  all  sizes.  Further  on  is  situated  the  stoves  where  eutr^s,  soups. 
&c.,  ore  prepared,  being  a  grate  for  a  cbsrcoal  fire  in  the  centre,  with  one 
of  my  new  gas  stoves  upon  each  side,  which  afford  the  greatest  comfort  ever 
Introduced  in  any  culinary  arrangement ;  each  stove  is  divided  into  five  com- 


628  EITTHEN  OP 

pArtmentM,  (we  Plate)  each  hanng  a  aepante  pipe  and  brui  coA,  with  a 

separate  muo  pipe  to  each  atoie,  vhich  auppliea  anfficient  gu  to  bum  the 

whole  five  compartments  at  nnce,  or  only  one  bj  not  tnming  the  gas  into 

ui;  of  the  other  compartmenta,  or  if  all  hnming  at  once  the  fire  maiy  be 

regulated  lo  an;  height  you  may  think  proper  by  mean*  of  the  bras*  cocks, 

turning  the  gas  either  full  or  only  partially  on.     It  posseaaes  also  the  folloir- 

ing  advantages :  you  obtain  the  same  heat  as  from  charcoal  the  moment  it  is 

Ut,  it  ia  a  fire  that  never  requirea  making  np,  is  free  from  carbonic  acid 

which  is  so  pernicious,  especially  in  small  kitchens,  and  creates  neither  doat 

or  smell  (except  the  gas  should  neglectfully  be  not  properly  turned  off),  and  by 

my  last  improvement  it  is  also  now  quite  free  from  smoke.     With  the  aid  of 

my  new  octagonal  trivet*  I  can  place  nine  stcwpons  over  without  the  fear  of 

upsetting  either,  some  only  simmering  and  others  boiling  at  the  same  time, 

which  is  invaluable,  as  by  the  gentle  simmcriDK  you  are  enabled  to  extract 

all  the  fat  from  soups  or  sances,  assisting  in  the  clarification,  and  cansiog 

them  to  digest  more  freely.     The  gas  stoves  also  tend  to  greater  economy, 

M  they  are  not  lit  till  the  moment  wanted,  then  only  the  quantity  requirea, 

and  may  be  put  out  the  moment  it  is  done 

witb,  1  think  it  a  great  pity  that  they  can 

only  be  fitted   in   London   and   other   large 

towns  daily  supplied  with  gas,  btit  it  is  there 

it  ii  most  required,  as  the  kitchens  are  smaller 

than  in  country  bouses,  no  heat  whatever 

being  created  in  the  smallest  kitchens  by  the 

use  of  gas  stoves. 

Further  on  at  the  end  of  the  stove  and 
parallel  with  the  bain  marie  there  is  another, 
two  feet  six  inchea  aquare  with  two  taps  for 
hot  and  cold  water,  nsed  for  keeping  sauces 
hot  for  a  private  dinner  in  the  house  dinner 
room,  being  three  difi'erent  bain  manes,  one 
for  fish  sauce,  one  for  the  coffee-room,  and 
one  for  the  private  dinner.  Next  ia  a  slate 
sink  two  feet  and  a  half  long,  one  foot  two 
inches  wide,  atd  eleven  inches  deep,  willi 
two  taps  for  hot  and  cold  water  nsed  for 
washing  various  kitchen  utensils  used  at  the 
cliarcosi  stoves.  Above  the  sink,  hot  plate, 
and  bain  marie,  is  an  iron  rack  nine  feet 
long  with  hooks  to  hang  lai^  eaut^pans. 
Near  it  is  a  hot  plate  two  feet  six  inches 
square  heated  bv  steam,  upon  which  are  placed 
dishes  prepared  for  dinners  and  from  thence 
removed  to  the  house  dinner-lift,  which  is 
drawn  up  either  by  steam  or  hand  machine. 
The  sink  trap  bell  is  one  of  the  most  simple  and  useful  fixtures  of  a  kitchen  ; 

*  Tlie  old  fashioned  triangular  trivets  seemed  to  Imvc  been  made  as  inconvenicut  as 
possible,  being  made  only  for  one  large  stcwpan  to  stand  over  the  Gre,  not  leaving 
room  for  any  soiaUer  ones  ronnd. 

f  Tbfi  maker  of  tliese  gas  stoves  ia  Mr.  Ritcit,  mlio  constructs  them  to  perfection 
at  a  trifling  expense  accoTding  to  their  merit. 


THE  REFORM  CLUB. 


629 


SINK  TRAP  BELL. 


I  inyented  it  after  twelve  monthg  of  tlie  greatest  inconyenience  arising 
from  a  complete  stoppage  in  many  of  the  drains  of 
the  duh^  which  not  only  created  an  ofifensiye  effluvia 
but  frequently  caused  the  opening  of  the  greater  portion 
of  the  basement  of  the  house.  Since  the  introduction 
of  the  trap  bell  to  the  sinks  throughout  the  kitchen 
department  such  offence  has  entirely  ceased.  The  bell 
is  made  of  copper  and  is  six  inches  long  and  ten  in 
circumference.  It  screws  to  the  sink  and  has  several 
holes  pierced  through  for  the  passage  of  the  water  only 
and  the  prevention  of  anythii^  else  passing  down.  It 
will  be  seen  that  the  plug  is  attached  to  a  rod^  which 
is  in  its  turn  joined  to  a  chain.  By  pulling  the  latter 
the  plug  is  removed  and  if  it  be  necessary  to  keep  it 
open  a  link  of  the  chain  may  be  attached  to  a  nail  fas- 
tened in  the  wall.  The  expense  is  a  mere  trifle,  the 
comfort  none  can  fully  appreciate.  I  am  happy  to  add 
that  my  example  has  since  been  followed  with  similar 
success  throughout  the  dub,  and  that  it  has  been  likewise  copied  in  many 
noblemen's  and  dub-house  kitchens. 

I  now  beg  leave  to  remark  to  my  readers  that  if  I  have  been  a  little  tedi- 
ous or  profuse  in  giving  the  exact  measurement  of  the  different  parts  and 
every  object  of  this  kitchen  by  feet  and  inches,  it  was  with  the  view  to  be 
useful  to  those  who  have  honoured  me  with  their  subscription,  and  the 
public ;  I  dare  hope  that  my  humble  efforts  will  have  the  effect  of  producing 
hereafter  a  reform  in  the  art  of  building  and  fitting  up  a  kitchen  which, 
without  being  of  an  immoderate  size,  contains  all  that  can  be  wished  for  as 
regards  saving  of  time,  comfort,  regularity,  cleanliness,  and  economy.  I  am 
happy  to  have  this  opportunity  of  acknowledging  that  without  the  great 
liberality  of  the  honorable  members  of  the  Reform  Qlub,  and  the  kindness 
of  that  celebrated  architect  Mr.  Barry,  I  could  never  have  succeeded  in 
accomplishing  the  improvements  so  essential  in  a  well  regulated  establish- 
ment ;  I  shall,  therefore,  remain  always  gratified  for  the  encouragement  they 
never  ceased  to  give  me  in  confiding  to  my  direction  this  new  system  of 
building  and  fitting  up  a  kitchen  which  is  now  in  active  operation,  not  only  for 
the  economy  of  the  Keform  Club  but  to  serve  as  a  guide  to  the  amateurs 
of  a  good  kitchen  as  well  as  of  good  living. 


IND  07  DSSCBIPTION. 


MY  KITCHEN   AT  HOME. 


Do  not  fancy,  gentle  reader,  under  this  title  to  see  a  wonder  of  the  age,  as 
regards  grandeur  and  magnitude ;  but  for  comfort  and  convenience  you  will 
jSnd  a  correct  miniature  of  the  kitchen,  the  plan  of  which  I  have  just  de- 
scribed, the  room  being  only  large  enough  for  one  or  two  persons  to  work 
in  instead  of  fourteen,  and  intended  to  supply  parties  of  from  eight  to  ten 
instead  of  a  hundred  and  above  ;  whether  of  great  or  little  importance,  every- 
thing, more  or  less,  has  its  share  of  merit  when  well  contrived,  and  by  the 
same  rule,  these  two  culinary  departments,  although  upon  a  very  different 
scale,  possess  the  same  advantages. 

In  publishing  my  Plan  of  the  Kitchen  of  the  Reform  Club,  many  persons 
could  not  conceive  my  motive  for  so  doing,  saying  that  no  private  family 
would  ever  be  in  waiit  of  so  large  a  kitchen,  and  it  would  be  madness  to  go 
to  such  an  expense,  with  which  reason  I  fully  concurred ;  but  being  aware  at 
the  same  time  that  all  my  new  plans  and  discoveries  might  be  reduced  to 
any  scale,  those  just  observations  have  induced  me  to  make  My  Kitchen  at 
Home  as  complete  in  its  way  as /the  other,  and  to  be  able  to  afford  the  facility 
to  any  man  cook,  if  employed  upon  any  extraordinary  occasions,  to  dress  a 
first-rate  dinner,  as  well  from  the  Receipts  adapted  for  the  Wealthy,  as  from 
those  under  the  heading  of  My  Kitchen  at  Home.  The  completeness  of  the 
arrangements,  although  much  smaller,  would  at  first  become  rather  expensive, 
but  would  last  almost  for  ever ;  should  they,  however,  be  too  expensive  for 
some  of  my  readers,  a  reduction  might  be  made  in  some  of  the  fittings  or 
apparatus,  but  still  keeping  to  the  same  style,  and  retaining  the  most  useful 
and  serviceable ;  but,  as  any  curtailing  would  disfigure  this  little  model,  I  will, 
for  the  convenience  of  some,  present  my  readers  with  the  plan  of  a  smaller 
one,  under  the  denomination  of  the  Bachelor's  Kitchen,  which  unfortunate 
class  are  often  individually  deprived  of  any  kind  of  real  homely  comfort ;  and 
to  be  still  more  sociable,  I  have  even  added  the  smallest  of  all  kitchens,  being 
that  of  the  Cottage. 

My  intention,  in  giving  the  plans  of  several  smaller  kitchens,  is  to  prove 
what  I  have  before  advanced,  that  I  could  easily  introduce  any  of  my  plans, 
or  apparatus,  into  kitchens  of  the  smallest  dimensions. 

I  now  must  politely  beg  of  my  readers  to  refer  to  page  633,  where  they 
will  see  a  correct  plan  of  my  small  Kitchen  at  Home,  under  which  title  I 
shelter  myself  from  culinary  criticisms,  because  every  man  is,  or  ought  to  be, 
allowed  to  do  anything  he  likes  "  at  home." 


REFERENCE  TO  PLAN  OF  MY  KITCHEN  AT  H0H8. 


THB   KITCHBN. 

A.  The  kitchen-grate,  for  roasting,  conatructed  with  perpendicular  bars,  about  two 

feet  in  height,  and  backed  with  Welsh  lumps.    The  opening  of  the  grate  hM 
a  slide,  working  up  and  down,  to  regulate  ihe  draught 

B.  A  boiler  behind  the  grate,  from  which  a  constant  supply  of  hot  water  is  obtained, 
c.  The  smoke-jack. 

D.  The  screen  and  plate-warmer. 
V.  The  dripping-pan. 

F.  The  ash-pit,  hiiving  an  air  drain  attached,  oommunicatiBg  with  an  air  brick  at  the 

exterior,  to  increase  the  draught  required  to  turn  the  smoke-jack ;  it  would  also 
prevent  the  chimney  from  smoking. 

0.  The  oven,  heated  by  a  fire  beneath. 

H.  The  bain  marie,  heated  by  hot  water  circulating  from  the  boiler. 

1.  The  hot  plate,  heated  by  a  fire.    The  coal  would  be  kept  underneath. 
K.  A  charcoal,  or  gas  stove. 

J..  Thick  kitchen  table,  with  sliding  shelves  and  rows  of  drawers. 

If.  Place  for  wet  sponge  to  wipe  the  table. 

NN.  Seasoning  box,  and  fish-sauce  box,  made  to  turn  on  centre  pivots. 

0.  Dresser  with  cupboards  beneath,  to  put  four  entree  services  of  china ;  above  it  the 

shelves  and  hooks  for  coven,  baking-sheet,  &c. 
p.  Iron  rail,  or  shelf  for  coppers, 
a.  Dresser  for  dishes,  with  drawen  for  small  kitchen  utensils,  one  drawer  for  fat 

and  a  slide-board ;  over  it  a  rail,  with  hooks  for  the  ooTcn. 
B.  Iron  rail  similar  to  preceding. 

8.  Rack  for  the  spits,  as  described  in  the  Kitchen  of  the  Reform  Club. 
T.  The  scrubbing-board. 
u.  The  hot  water  tub,  vrith  taps, 
w.  The  cold  water  tub. 

X.  The  draining-board,  grooved  and  inclined  towards  the  cold  water  tub. 
Y.  The  plaie-rack ;  that  part  which  is  over  the  tub  being  perforated  with  holes  at 

the  bottom.    The  other  half  of  the  bottom  is  inclined  in  the  direction  of  the 

holes, 
z.  A  cistern,  in  the  front  area. 

THB  LA&DBB. 

A.  A  dresser  with  drawen  beneath,  to  deposit  sauces  and  cold  meat. 

B.  Flour  box. 

c.  Narrow  upright  closet  for  preserves  and  spice  jars. 

D.  Marble  slab  for  pastry,  with  ice  drawen,  and  pickle  drawen  beneath. 

B.  Mortar. 

p.  Safe  for  cooked  meat. 

G.  Rail  hung  from  the  ceiling  to  hang  up  meat  and  game. 

H.  Boxes  of  different  uzes  in  two  ten ;  they  are  made  of  slate  with  wooden  moveable 
fronts,  and  are  for  vegetables> 

1.  Iron  rail  above,  for  moulds  and  spices. 
K.  Potatoes. 


PLAN    or   MY    KITCHEN   AT   HOMI> 


REFERENCE    TO    PLANS. 


THE  BACHELOR'S  KITCHEN. 

A  Tht  grate,  with  upright  han  about  eighteen  inches  in  height,  and  Welsh  lompa 
at  the  back.  Near  the  bottom  of  the  grate  are  small  openings  to  asnst  the 
draught,  which  communicate  with  an  air  drain  from  the  exterior.  The  open- 
ings can  be  regulated  by  slides. 

B.  The  boiler. 

c.  Reserroir  to  supply  boiler,  the  pipe  from  which  has  a  ball-cock. 
D.  The  oven. 

K.  The  hot  closet.    Below  this  is  a  tap  to  procnre  hot  water  from  the  boiler. 

p.  The  screen  and  plate-warmer.        o.  The  dripping-pan.        h.  The  smoke-jack. 

L  A  double  gridiron.  This  is  moTeable,  and  hangs  from  a  bracket  which  clasps  upop. 
the  top  bar  of  the  grste.  It  can  be  moved  to  any  distance  from  the  bars,  and 
can  be  turned  without  remoTing  it  from  its  position  on  the  bracket.  For  this 
purpose  there  is  a  swivel-joint  about  the  middle  of  the  handle. 

J.  Swing  bracket,  to  support  a  pan. 

K.  A  charcoal  or  gas  stove. 

L,  Rack  for  the  spits,  as  described  in  the  kitchen  of  the  Reform  Club. 

MM  )    Iron  shelves   of  open  rails  for  the  coppers,  &c.,  about  seven  feet  from  the 

M  J  floor. 

N.  The  sink,  furnished  with  taps  for  hot  and  cold  water.  It  has  the  bell  tr^>,  of  which 
a  drawing  has  already  been  given.    Under  the  sink  the  coal-box  is  kept 

o.  The  plate-rack,  placed  above  the  sink. 

p.  The  dresser,  with  slide  boards  and  drawers. 

a.  Place  for  the  sponge  and  water. 

B.  The  spice-box. 

B.  The  meat-safe.  This  is  divided  into  two  compartments,  for  raw  and  cooked  meat. 
It  is  placed  outside  the  building,  and  runs  upon  wheels  and  rails,  being  drawn 
forwards  or  pushed  back.  With  this  object  a  chain  is  attached  to  the  front, 
and  there  is  a  weight,  made  to  counterbalance  the  weight  of  the  safe,  exclusive 
of  the  contents.  There  is  a  slide  board  near  the  foot  of  the  dresser  to  stand 
upon.  The  plan  represents  the  safe  in  its  position,  when  not  in  use.  It  could 
readily  be  adapted  to  balconies  in  existing  buildings.  It  might  be  desirable 
to  have  the  wire  gauze  double. 

T.  Dresser,  with  marble  top,  to  make  pastry  upon.  Beneath  are  the  vegetable  boxes 
in  two  ranges ;  they  are  shown  by  dotted  lines. 

V.  The  mortar,  which  stands  upon  a  block  of  wood,  slightly  hollowed  to  receive  it. 
When  not  in  use  it  can  be  placed  beneath  the  dresser.  There  is  an  iron  ring 
above,  as  in  the  other  kitchens,  for  the  handle  of  the  pestle  to  work  through. 

WW.  Closets  for  preserves  and  other  purposes. 

X.  Shelves. 

THE  COTTAGE  KITCHEN. 

A.  The  grate,  as  before.  b.  The  boiler.  c.  Reservoir  to  supply  boiler. 
D.  Oven. 

B.  The  screen.    This  is  a  simple  wooden  rail  covered  with  tin,  and  can  be  used  as  a 

clothes-horse. 

p.  Swing  bracket,  to  support  a  pan. 

o.  Bracket  for  roasting,  and  gridiron,  before  described. 

H.  Ash-pit,  and  air  drain  communicating  with  the  exterior. 

T.  The  sink,  with  taps  for  hot  and  cold  water.  The  coal-box  may  be  placed  under- 
neath. 

K.  Plate-rack.  l.  Water-butt. 

M.  The  dresser,  with  drawers  and  slide  boards. 

N.  Place  for  the  sponge  and  water.  o.  Salt  and  spice-box. 

r.  The  meat-safe,  placed  at  the  upper  part  of  the  larder,  which  is  wdl  ventilated  by 
panes  of  perforated  zinc  in  the  window. 

d.  Potatoes,  beneath  the  stairs.  b.  Plate  shelves. 
H.  Shelves  for  the  pans,  below  the  plate  shelves.  t.  Copper. 


DINNER  PARTY  AT  HOME. 


BILL  OF  FARE 

FOB  XXOHT  PBaSONS. 


1  Soup. 
French  Pot  an  Feu. 

1  Fish.  •    • 

3  Slieei  of  Salmon  en  matelote. 

2  RucoTU.  £ 

Braiaed  Fowls  with  ipring  vegetablet.  J 

Leg  of  Mutton  batted  with  deril's  tean. 

2  ENTBisa. 

Lamb  Cntleti  with  aspaiagni,  peas. 
Salmi  of  Plovers  with  mushrooms. 

2  Roasts. 

2  Ducklings. 
4  Pigeons  barded  with  Tine  leaves. 

4  ENTnnuTs. 
Orange  Jelly  Omelette  with  fine  herbs. 

Green  peas.  Gooseberry  Tart  with  cream. 

1  Rbmots. 
Iced  Cake  with  fruits. 


Nothing  but  light  wine  is  drunk  at  the  first  course,  but  at  the  second  my  guests  are 
at  liberty  to  drink  wines  of  any  other  description,  intercepting  them  wi&i  several 
hors-d'oeuvres,  which  are  small  dishes  of  Froich  pickled  olives  and  sardines,  thin 
slices  of  Bologna  sausage,  fillets  of  anchovies,  dboulettes,  or  very  small  green  onions, 
radishes,  etc. ;  also  a  plsin-dressed  salade  i.  la  Fran^aise  (for  which  see  end  of  the 
entr^,  Kitchen  at  Home),  fromage  de  Brie,  Neiuchatei,  or  even  Windsor  cheese, 
when  it  can  be  procured.  The  coffee  and  dessert  I  usually  leave  to  the  good  taste 
and  economy  of  my  menagere. 


I 

1 

J 


687 


RECEIPTS. 


PLAIN  JOINTS  ADAPTED  TO  THE  TABLE  OF  THE  WEALTHY  AS  WEIX  AS 

MY  TABLE  AT  HOME. 

As  hardly  any  dinner  is  properly  served  without  a  simple  joint,  which  may 
be  deposited  either  on  the  table  or  sideboard,  1  have  placed  all  plain  joints, 
as  also  the  directions  for  choosing  meat,  at  the  commencement  of  My  Kitchen 
at  Home,  to  which  I  shall  beg  to  refer  my  readers  while  making  the  bills  of 
fare,  or  choosing  different  qualities  of  meat. 

OF  THE  CH008INQ  AND  ROASTING  OF  PLAIN  JOINTS. 

Here  I  must  claim  all  the  attention  of  my  readers :  many  of  the  profession 
will,  I  have  no  doubt,  be  surprised  that  I  should  dwell  upon  a  subject  which 
appears  of  so  little  importance,  saying  that,  from  the  plain  cook  to  the  most 
professed,  all  know  how  to  roast  or  boil  a  piece  of  meat,  but  there  I  must 
beg  their  pardon ;  I  will  instance  myself :  for,  previously  to  my  forming 
any  intention  of  writing  the  present  work,  I  had  not  devoted  the  tmie  neces- 
sary to  become  professionally  acquainted  with  it,  always  depending  upon  my 
roasting  cook,  who  had  constant  practice,  myself  only  having  the  knowledge 
of  whether  or  not  properly  done.  I  have  since  not  only  studied  it  closely, 
but  have  made  in  many  respects  improvements  upon  the  old  system,  and 
many  discoveries  in  that  branch  which  I  am  sure  is  the  most  beneficial  to  all 
classes  of  society  (remembering,  as  I  have  before  stated,  that  three  parts  of 
the  animal  food  of  this  country  i»  served  either  plain  roasted  or  boiled).  My 
first  study  was  the  fire,  which  I  soon  perceived  was  too  deep,  consumed  too 
much  coal,  and  required  poking  every  half  hour,  thus  sending  dust  and  dirt  all 
over  the  joints,  which  were  immediately  basted  to  wash  it  off;  seeing  plainly 
this  inconvenience,  I  immediately  remedied  it  by  inventing  my  new  roasting 
fire-place  (see  page  622),  by  which  means  I  saved  two  hundred-weight  of 
coals  per  day,  besides  the  advantage  of  never  requiring  to  be  poked,  being 
narrow  and  perpendicular ;  the  fire  is  lighted  with  the  greatest  facility,  and 
the  front  of  the  fire  being  placed  a  foot  back  in  the  chimney-piece,  throws 
the  heat  of  the  fire  direct  upon  the  meat,  and  not  out  at  the  sides,  as 
many  persons  know  from  the  old  roasting  ranges.  I  have  many  times  placed 
ladies  or  gentlemen,  visiting  the  club,  within  two  feet  of  the  fire  when  six 
large  joints  have  been  roasting,  and  they  have  been  in  perfect  ignorance  that 
it  was  near  them  until  upon  opening  the  wing  of  the  screen  (see  same  Plate) 
by  surprise,  they  have  appeared  quite  ternfied  to  think  they  were  so  near 
such  an  immense  furnace.  My  next  idea  was  to  discontinue  basting,  perhaps 
a  bold  attempt  to  change  and  upset  at  once  the  custom  of  almost  all  nations 
and  ages,  but  being  so  confident  of  its  evil  effects  and  tediousness,  I  at  once 
did  away  with  it,  and  derived  the  greatest  benefit  (for  explanation,  see  re- 
marks at  the  commencement  of  the  roasts  in  the  Kitchen  of  the  Wealthy), 
for  the  quality  of  meat  in  England  is,  I  may  say,  superior  to  any  other 
nation ;  its  moist  soil  producing  nne  grass  almost  all  the  year  round,  which  is 
the  best  food  for  every  description  of  cattle,  whilst  in  some  countries  not  so 
favoured  by  nature  they  are  obliged  to  have  recourse  to  artificial  food,  which 


688  KITCHKN  AT  HOME. 

fattens  the  animab,  but  decreases  the  flaToor  of  the  meat ;  and,  again,  ve 
must  take  into  consideration  the  care  and  attention  paid  by  the  fanners  and 
graziers  to  improve  the  stock  of  those  unfortunate  benefactors  of  the  hamaD 
family. 

Every  country  is  fiimous,  more  or  less,  for  some  produce,  so  ia  every 
county  ;  for  instance,  for  the  best  beef  we  are  indebted  principally  to  Scot- 
land :  the  Highland  ox,  which  if  bred  in  Scotland,  kept  there  until  four 
years  old,  and  fed  twelve  months  in  Norfolk,  cannot  be  surpassed ;  those 
also  that  are  killed  in  Scotland  are  likewise  very  commendable,  but  the  con- 
noisseur would  give  the  preference  by  far  to  those  that  had  undergone  a  chamge 
of  atmosphere  and  pasturage.  Norfolk  also  produces  excellent  beef,  aa  like- 
wise does  Herefordshire,  which  three  sorts  are  ranked  as  the  best  by  the  first 
judges. 

The  Brighton  downs  are  noted  for  producing  aheep  of  the  first  quality, 
next  to  which  may  be  ranked  those  of  the  Norfolk  downs,  they  are  rather 
larger,  more  fleshy,  and  the  meat  sometimes  a  darker  colour.  Herefordshire 
also  produces  some  very  excellent.  The  Scotch  mutton  is  also  ver^  good^^nd 
deservedly  of  high  repute,  but  I  rarely  ever  use  it,  as  it  ib  killed  m  Scotland 
and  hurriedly  packed,  which  causes  it  not  to  look  so  well,  and  frequently  very 
much  bruises  it ;  but  those  of  Leicestershire  are,  in  my  opinion,  quite  the  con- 
trary, being  coarse  meat  and  very  fat ;  1  consider  it  unworthy  of  making  its 
appearance  upon  the  table  of  a  man  of  wealth.  When  residing  at  M%lton 
Mowbray  I  tried  several  haunches,  even  after  hanging  a  montli  in  winter,  and 
then  roasted  to  perfection,  I  could  not  find  in  them  any  flavour  worthy  of 
the  taste  of  an  epicure ;  I  consider  it  more  as  a  useful  nourishment  than  a 
delicate  meat.  * 

The  best  Welsh  mutton  is  brought  direct  from  its  native  mountains,  the 
heath  upon  which  it  feeds  gives  a  yery^h  flavour  to  the  meat,  which  is  very 
dark  without  much  fat ;  many  are  fed  in  some  of  the  English  counties,  they 
are  very  excellent  and  much  fatter,  but  do  not  possess  the  same  wild  flavour. 

The  best  veal  to  be  obtained  in  the  spring  time  of  the  year  comes  from  the 
west  of  England,  being  rather  small  and  very  white,  but  there  is  a  steady 
supply  of  good  veal  from  Surrey  and  Essex  throughout  the  year.  Although 
very  fine  veal  may  be  obtained  in  this  country,  it  is  not  to  be  compared  to 
the  quality  of  real  we  obtain  in  France  ;  the  veal  of  Pontoise,  a  little  town 
six  miles  from  Paris,  outriyals  any ;  I  would  venture  to  say  that  one  pound 
of  that  veal  would  make  a  better  stock  than  double  the  quantity  of  the  veal 
procured  here :  no  one  can  account  for  it,  but  such  is  the  actual  case ;  al- 
though there  the  quality  of  any  other  description  of  animal  food  is  deficient, 
we  have  to  boast  of  the  excellent  flavour,  succulence,  and  excessive  whiteness 
of  our  veal. 

House  lamb  may  be  obtained  throughout  the  whole  year,  but  there  is  no 
great  demand  for  it  before  February ;  grass  lamb  makes  its  appearance  now 
much  earher  than  formerly :  the  quality  much  depends  upon  the  winter  season  ; 
if  a  mild  winter  they  may  really  be  fed  upon  grass,  but  if  the  contrary,  they 
must  be  fed  with  prepare^  food,  which  increases  their  size  but  diminishes 
their  quality. 

Pork  for  roasting  is  best  J[hen  about  six  months  old,  Berkshire  and  Hamp- 
shire producing  the  best.  The  size  t)f  a  leg  of  pork  should  not  exceed  more 
than  seven  pounds,  nor  much  less  than  six.  I  do  not  know  why,  but  of  late 
years  pork  has  lost  in  a  great  measure  its  popularity,  and  but  seldom  appears 
upon  a  nobleman's  table  ;  it  is  in  season  from  October  to  about  March. 


^^^sm 


KITCHKN   AT  HOME.  639 

No.  1.  Sirimn  of  Beef.  The  royal  honour  which  this  bold  and  hand- 
some dish  receiyed  from  the  merry  monarch,  who  conferred  upon  it  the 
honour  of  knighthood,  good  Sir  Loin,  which  title  it  has  ever  since  retained 
(previoosly  only  bearing  the  cognomen  of  loin),  and  most  likely  will  retain 
until  the  latest  period :  as  a  joint  it  claims  precedence  of  all  others.  In 
roasting,  the  fillet  and  fat  below  keep  the  upper  part  moist,  and  when  well 
roasted,  such  is  the  quantity  of  gravy,  that  after  a  few  slices  have  been  cut  it 
may  be  taken  from  it  with  a  spoon. 

Procure  a  fine  square  piece  of  sirloin  weighing  about  twenty  pounds  (which 
has  been  hung  at  least  three  weeks  in  winter,  and  eight  or  ten  days,  if  possi- 
ble, in  summer,  observing  that  the  older  the  meat  is  the  longer  it  will  require 
keeping  before  cooking,  and  this  remark  applies  to  all  kinds  of  meat,  especially 
to  beef  and  mutton),  trim  nicely,  leaving  the  fat  about  an  inch  and  a  half  in 
thickness  over  the  fillet,  cut  a  slice  slantwise  from  the  fiap,  which  turn  under, 
fixing  it  with  skewers,  thus  giving  the  joint  an  oblong  shape ;  with  a  sharp 
knife  cut  through  the  sinew  (running  along  the  chine-bones)  in  four  or  five 
places,  or  the  meat  would  contract  in  roasting ;  make  an  incision  in  the  centre 
of  the  chine-bones,  *  lengthwise,  with  a  chopper,  through  which  pass  a  spit 
an  inch  wide  and  half  an  inch  in  thickness,  bringing  it  out  at  the  flap, 
keeping  the  centre,  and  avoiding  the  fiUet.  When  the  joint  is  lai^er  it  would 
be  advisable  to  use  a  cradle-spit,  which,  however  hke  the  other  spit,  has  its ' 
inconveniences,  one  making  a  hole  through  the  meat,  and  the  other  pressing 
upon  the  fat,  making  it  heavy ;  but  in  any  kind  of  joint,  if  not  over-roastedf 
you  will  never  perceive  the  mark  of  the  spit,  as  the  cavity  closes  immediately 
upon  the  spit  leaving  it ;  always  choose  a  spit  correspon<hng  to  the  size  of  the 
joint.  In  a  large  kitchen,  where  you  require  many  joints  roasting  at  one 
time,  a  cradle-spit  is  a  nuisance,  and  must  be  used  only  where  it  cannot  be 
avoided.  Tie  half  a  sheet  of  buttered  foolscap  paper  upon  each  side  of  the 
beef,  and  place  to  roast,  keeping  it  two  feet  from  a  very  clear  fire,  let  remain 
twenty  minutes,  then  rub  the  top  over  with  a  piece  of  butter  placed  in 
the  bowl  of  a  large  wooden  spoon  (see  page  396),  and  place  the  beef  back  to 
the  distance  of  three  or  four  feet  fr6m  the  fire,  allowing  it  two  hours  and  a 
half  to  three  hours  to  roast ;  take  it  from  your  spit,  let  remain  a  few  minutes 
upon  a  dish  until  no  more  fat  runs  from  it,  when  place  it  upon  the  dish  you 
intend  serving  it  on  (previously  taking  out  the  piece  of  rump-bone  affixed  to 
the  side  to  facilitate  the  carving ;  but  in  choosing  a  piece  of  sirloin  obtain  it 
if  possible  without  any  of  that  bone  attached,  or,  at  any  rate,  with  but  a  very 
small  piece,  as  the  joint  looks  so  much  handsomer  without  it),  pouring  half  a 
pint  of  good  gravy  (page  394)  nuder ;  you  will  then  perceive  my  object  in 
not  basting  meat,  the  fat  and  the  skin  will  be  of  a  very  Ught  gold  colour, 
which  would  have  been  quite  the  contrary  if  continually  basted.  By  placing 
the  meat  too  near  the  fire  the  fat  quickly  melts  and  falls  into  the  dripping-  ' 
pan*  whilst  by  keeping,  it  a  tolerable  distance  it  cooks  gradually,  and 
as  the  meat  revolves  runs  over  its  surface,  keeping  it  continually  moist ; 
and,  again,  by  placing  it  too  near  the  fire  it  is  liable  to  catch,  causing 
many  persons  to  think  that  it  has  not  been  yell  basted;  another  evil 
in  basting  is,  that  by  continually  pouring  hot  fat  over  you  cause  that 'beautiful 
light  fat  attached  to  the  joint  to  become  heavy,  and  the  gravy  which  invariably 
falls  from  the  joint  with  the  fat  remains  upon  it,  burns,  and  causes  it  to  be 
very  indigestible.  It  will  also  be  easy  to  perceive  in  the  habit  of  pouring  a 
quantity  of  hot  fat  over  all  joints,  that  if  three  or  four  should  be  roasting 
together,  one  over  the  other,  that  one  description  of  meat  becomes  basted 
with  the  fat  and  gravy  of  several,  whilst  the  mere  nibbing  of  a  piece  of  butter 


640  KITCHEN  AT  HOME. 

oyer  is  not  tbe  least  objectionable^  as  notbing  can  fall  upon  other  jointa  but  a 
little  batter  or  dear  fat,  which  cannot  in  the  least  interfere  with  the  fiaToor  of 
other  meats,  bat  still  I  would  advise  that  lamb,  veal,  poultry,  and  even  gwii^ 
be  kept  at  the  top  where  there  is  beef,  mutton,  or  pork  roasting ;  thia  only 
applies  to  laige  establishments. 

The  above  description  is  applied  for  the  Kitchen  of  the  Wealthy,  bat  I  nutst 
confess  I  do  not  object  to  a  small  piece  of  beef  for  my  Kitchen  at  Home ;  I 
should  proceed  precisely  as  above,  only  procuring  a  piece  of  not  more  thu^ 
eight,  ten,  or  twelve  pounds  in  weight ;  put  a  httie  water  in  the  dripping-^ian, 
place  the  beef  upon  a  spit  papered  as  bdfore,  ^ut  it  very  near  the  fire  for  a 
few  minutes,  rub  over  with  butter,  then  put  it  back  at  the  distance  of  two 
feet ;  let  roast,  if  weighing  from  ten  to  twelve  pounds,  an  hour  and  a  half  to 
two  hours,  depending  much  upon  the  fire,  of  which  any  person  may  judge 
with  or  without  practice ;  take  it  up,  dress  upon  your  diah,  then  have  the 
contents  of  your  dripping-pan  in  a  basin,  from  which  extract  the  whole  of  the 
£st,  and  pour  the  gravy  over  the  chine-bones,  it  will  be  very  good,  and  aave  the 
trouble  and  expense  of  making  gravy ;  a  couple  of  Yorkshire  puddings,  of  tvo 
egffs  each,  are  Yerj  excellent  cooked  under  the  meat ;  before  I  had  a  amoke- 
jack  in  my  small  kitchen  I  used  to  roast  very  well  with  a  bit  of  string.  For 
the  cottage  kitchen,  where  there  is  no  smoke-jack  provided,  you  may  roaat 
very  well  with  a  piece  of  worsted  or  string,  by  hooking  it  to  the  meat,  and 
then  suspending  it  to  a  bracket  fixed  under  the  mantel-piece,  which  will 
enable  you  to  remove  it  to  any  distance  you  think  proper  from  the  fire,  mAkiny 
a  tea-tray,  at  the  distance  of  three  feet  from  the  fire,  act  as  a  screen ;  the 
bottle-jacks  are  not  bad,  but  soon  get  out  of  repair. 

No.  2.  Ribs  of  Beef.  A  piece  of  from  twenty  to  twenfj-five  pounds  makes 
a  very  pretty  joint ;  trim  neatly  by  sawing  off  the  tips  of  the  chine-bonea  to 
make  it  stand  flat,  saw  also  about  three  inches  from  the  tips  of  the  ribs, 
merely  sawing  through  the  bones,  which  detach  from  the  meat,  leaving  a  flap, 
which  fold  under  and  fix  with  wooden  skewers,  not,  however,  puUing  it  too 
tight,  or  it  would  cause  the  skin  to  crack  in  roasting,  which  wovdd  produce  a 
very  bad  effect ;  roast  as  directed  for  the  sirloin,  from  two  hours  ana  a  half  to 
three  hours  would  be  sufficient,  unless  very  thick.  For  a  cold  joint  the  riba 
are  better  than  the  sirloin,  which  last  should  always  be  eaten  hot. 

At  home  I  often  have  a  piece  of  ribs  of  beef  weighing  from  six  to  eight 
pounds,  and  roast  by  passing  a  very  thin  spit  through,  and  placing  it  down 
before  a  moderate  fire ;  or,  if  in  a  small  cottage,  lukng  it  up  with  string  aa 
for  the  small  sirloin ;  it  would  take  from  an  hour  and  five  minutes  to  an 
hour  and  a  quarter  roasting,  being  perpendicular  you  may  baste  it  slightly,  aa 
it  does  not  receive  much  nourishment  from  its  own  fat. 

No.  3.  Rump  of  Bee/.  This  is  also  a  very  delicate  joint,  but  can  only  be 
had  to  perfection  in  the  winter  months,  as  it  requires  hanging  from  three  weeks 
to  a  month  before  it  is  in  readiness  to  roaat  to  perfection ;  procure  one  of  from 
thirty  to  thirty-five  pounds  in  weight,  trim  neatly,  leaving  aU  the  fat,  for,  taking 
so  long  to  roast,  should  it  be  short  of  fat  it  would  ^  to  table  quite  dry;  roaat 
it  in  a  cradle-spit  as  directed  for  sirloin,  but  keepmg  it  still  frirther  from  the 
fire,  and  giving  it  from  four  hours  and  a  half  to  five  hours  roasting,  it  might 
also  be  roasted  in  paste  as  directed  for  haunch  of  venison  (No.  222),  or  wrap 
it  up  in  several  sheets  of  paper  well  buttered,  and  browned  by  taking  ofi"  the 
paste  twenty  minutes  before  removing  horn,  the  fire. 


KITCHEN  AT  HOME.  641 

'Hiis  bold  joint  never  makes  its  appearance  in  my  Kitchen  at  Home,  but  I 
have  frequently  used  the  piece  of  fillet  attached  to  it,  which  weighs  from 
three  to  five  pounds  ;  I  leave  about  an  inch  of  fat  upon  it,  pass  a  small  spit 
through,  and  roast  from  three  quarters  of  an  hour  to  an  hour ;  for  gravy  I 
proceed  as  for  the  sirloin.  Cold  potatoes,  previously  boUed,  put  under  it  in 
the  dripping-pan  whilst  roasting,  and  turned  occasionally,  are  very  excellent. 

No.  4.  Baron  of  Bee/.  It  is  an  old  saying  that  two  eztiremes  often  meet, 
so  with  me,  I  leave  my  five  pounds'  joint  roasting  and,  like  Gulliver,  make  a 
step  towards  the  empire  of  the  giant.  This  is,  indeed,  a  colossal  joint,  which 
at  first  sight  would  put  a  modest  Sj^  out  of  conceit,  my  smoke-jack  out  of 
order,  and,  above  all,  drive  my  few  guests*  appetites  from  Uieir  frugtd  stomachs ; 
they  not  being  initiated  in  the  grandeur  or  importance  of  a  civic  or  aristo- 
cratic banquet  would  consider  it  a  mighty  dish  of  vulgarity.  But  stay, 
friends,  1  would  observe  grandeur  and  magnitude  are  far  from  being  vulgar ; 
to  prove  that  my  assertion  is  correct  I  have  the  opinion  of  ages,  for  it  is  a  dish 
almost  as  old  as  England  herself.  I  have  before  stated  that  Charles  the 
Second  gave  the  title  and  importance  to  the  sirloin,  and  I  have  no  doubt  the 
baron  owes  its  origin  also  to  smne  such  cause  or  great  event,  which  I  will 
attempt  to  discover  for  the  information  of  some  of  my  readers  who,  like 
myself,  at  present  may  be  entirely  ignorant  of  its  origin,  which  I  feel  assured 
will  prove  interesting. 

A  baron  of  beef  in  genendly  cut  from  a  small  ox,  and  includes  the  two 
rumps  and  two  sirloins  with  one  of  the  rib  bones  on  each  side ;  it  must  be 
trussed  precisely  as  for  a  saddle  of  mutton  ;  pass  a  «pit,  which  of  course  must 
not  be  too  large,  through  the  spinal-marrow-bone,  then  wrap  the  beef  up  in 
paste  as  for  a  haunch  of  venison  (No.  640),  only  a  little  thicker,  add  also 
more  paper,  set  it  three  feet  from  a  brisk  fire,  pouring  fat  over  the  paper  to 
prevent  its  catching  fire,  twenty  minutes  afterwards  remove  the  i^it  two  feet 
farther  from  the  fire,  inclose  it  well  with  the  fire-Bcreen»  and  roast  eight  or 
nine  hours,  keeping  it  turned  by  hand ;  half  an  hour  before  it  is  done  take  off 
the  paste  and  paper  and  give  Uie  beef  a  fine  gold  colour,  when  take  up,  dress 
in  a  dish  with  gravy  und^  and  serve.  The  ancient  style  was  to  serve  a  repre- 
sentation of  St.  Cieorge  and  the  dragon,  cut  from  vegetables,  upon  the  top, 
fresh  salad  also  of  every  description  used  to  be  placed  around,  but  the  whole 
was  obliged  to  be  removed  at  the  commencement  of  carving. 

Having  promised  my  readers  that  I  would  make  all  possible  inquiry  relating 
to  the  origin  of  the  inviting  joint  called  baron  of  beef,  a  careful  search  into 
"  Hone"  and  others,  has  not,  I  regret  to  say,  been  attended  with  quite  a 
favorable  result,  and  the  only  information  which  I  can  at  present  obtain 
is  the  leeendary  one  that  King  John,  after  signing  Magna  Charta  at 
Bunnymede,  partook  of  a  repast  in  the  company  of  his  barons,  consisting  of 
the  saddle  and  part  of  the  ribs  of  beef  roasted,  and  that  hence  arose  the  saying 
''baron  of  beef."  Now  this  appears  very  much  like  the  traveller's  tale  that 
bad  but  one  point  in  its  fiivour,  namely,  that  no  one  present  could  possibly 
contradict  it. 

No.  5.  Bomnd  of  Beef.  **  Here,"  says  John  Bull,  with  a  good-humoured 
countenance  (standing  near  a  table  upon  which  was  a  round  of  beef  being 
prepared  for  dressing,  clapping  his  hands  upon  his  knees,  and  bending  with 
no  hide  difficulty  his  colossal  stomach),  '*  do  you  know,  my  excellent  friend," 
says  he  to  me,  ''  I  fear  you  cannot  cook  that  glorious  dish  to  perfection,  for  }, 

41 


642  KITCHEN  AT  HOME. 

have  not  yet  forgotten  your  seTen  hoan'  drettring  of  a  leg  of  matton  (p.  1 93), 
BO  if  you  are  not  above  receiving  a  leaaon  I  will  give  yon  one  which  will  cnaUe 
you  to  drees  this  all-important  dish  to  perfection  ;  for  I  priie  it  aa  I  do  my 
own  roaat  beef  of  old  England,  and  yon  mnat  be  aware  that  after  the  eentonei 
of  practice  I  hare  bad  that  I  mnat  understand  some  little  about  it.  Well,  in 
the  first  place,  the  quality  of  the  meat  has  a  good  deal  to  do  with  it,  of  which 
you  have  given  a  fair  description,  I  therefore  pass  it  over ;  but  to  proceed:  it 
must  be  cut  pretty  freely  from  the  knuckle  and  placed  in  a  brine-tab,  cover 
well  with  salt,  rub  it  well  in,  leave  it  until  the  next  day,  when  again  rab  it  with 
the  salt  and  brine  created  by  the  gravy  from  the  meat,  rubbing  well  cTery 
other  day  until  it  has  remained  a  fortnight^  that  is,  if  of  a  good  size,  weighing 
from  thirty  to  thirty-five  pounds,  if  larger  or  smaller,  more  or  lesa  time, 
which  must  be  left  to  your  own  good  judgment,  then  take  it  out  of  the  pidkle, 
let  drain  twenty  minutes,  take  out  and  form  it  of  a  good  shape,  folding  the  fat 
round,  which  fix  with  skewers,  tying  it  round  with  a  few  yards  of  tery  wide 
tape,  tie  it  up  in  a  thin  doth,  and  place  it  in  a  large  stock-pot  with  plenty  of 
cold  water,  set  upon  a  good  fire  and  when  beginning  to  boil  draw  it  to  the 
corner,  where  let  simmer  five  hours,  but  two  hours  before  it  is  done  pat  in 
eight  fine  carrots,  scraped  and  cut  into  six  or  eight  pieces,  twelve  turnips 
(peeled),  and  two  suet  puddings,  weighing  from  two  and  a  half  to  three 
pounds  each,  these  articles  would,  perhaps,  cause  the  water  to  cense  boiling, 
if  so,  place  it  again  quite  over  the  fire  until  it  does  boil ;  when  done  take  out 
the  round,  let  drain  ten  minutes,  take  it  from  the  doth,  detach  the  ti^,  take 
out  the  skewers,  replacing  them  as  you  take  them  out  with  long  silver  skewers, 
dress  upon  a  large  hot-water  dish,  and  pour  over  about  a  quart  of  the  liqaor 
it  was  boiled  in,  cut  a  large  slice  from  the  top  about  two  inches  and  a  half  in 
thickness,  dress  the  carrots  and  turnips  tasteftiUy  around  and  serve,  with  the 
puddings  upon  a  separate  dish,  sending  one  after  the  other,  they  will  eat  much 
Ughter.  When  upon  the  table  it  must  be  carved  with  a  regular  round-of-beef 
knife  (very  sharp)  in  slices  not  exceeding  the  thickness  of  half-a-crown  piece, 
assisting  each  guest  to  a  slice,  also  give  one  third  fat,  with  a  little  of  the  canrot 
and  turnip,  but  never  dig  the  underdone  part  from  the  centre  to  oblige  any 
one,  for  they  that  cannot  eat  from  a  joint  well-cooked  and  fairly  carved  are 
not  worthy  of  having  one  set  before  them.  Some  persons  like  them,  when 
salted,  to  cut  red  quite  through,  I  do  not  admire  it,  but  it  is  done  by  adding 
two  ounces  of  sal  prunella  and  half  a  pound  of  saltpetre  to  every  fifteen 
pounds  of  salt  used  in  the  pickling.  When  a  round  of  beef  is  very  large  aome 
persons  place  a  tin  tube  in  the  centre  to  boil  it,  I  do  not  think  it  a  bad  plan, 
as  it  causes  it  to  cook  more  regular." 

After  receiving  the  above  useful  lesson,  and  being  desirous  of  improving  my 
profession  in  all  its  branches,  I  remembered  that  amongst  the  number  of  joints 
boiled  to  serve  cold  for  large  dvic,  agricultural,  or  benevolent  anniversary 
dinners,  the  round  of  beef  was  the  most  prominent,  and  having  seen  it  stand- 
ing in  dishes  to  get  cold,  with  the  dish  filled  with  the  gravy  that  runs  from  it» 
particularly  if  ahttle  overdone,  caused  me  to  hit  upon  the  following  expedient 
to  prevent  the  meat  losing  so  much  of  its  succulence  :  fill  two  large  tubs  with 
cold  water,  into  which  throw  a  few  pounds  of  rough  ice,  and  when  the  round  is 
done  throw  it,  cloth  and  all,  into  one  of  the  tubs  of  ice  water,  let  remain  one 
minute,  when  take  out  and  put  it  into  the  other  tub,  fill  the  first  tub  again 
with  water,  and  continue  the  above  process  for  about  twenty  minutes,  then 
set  it  upon  a  dish,  leaving  the  cloth  on  until  the  next  day,  or  until  quite 
cold ;  when  opened  the  M  will  be  as  white  aa  possible,  besides  having  saved 


KITCHEN  AT  HOME.  643 

the  whole  of  the  gravy*  If  no  ice,  spring  water  will  anawer  the  same  purpose, 
hut  will  require  to  be  more  frequently  changed ;  the  same  mode  would  be 
equally  successful  with  the  aitch-bone. 

The  aboTe  is  a  joint  which  I  have  always  considered  too  large  for  my  Eatchen 
at  Home,  but  the  aitch-bone  or  brisket  is  easily  managed. 

No.  6.  AiteK-hone  of  Beef  .  A  good-sized  one  would  weigh  from  fifteen  to 
twenty  pounds.  Pickle  it  precisely  as  directed  in  the  last,  but  one  week  would 
be  sufficient,  boil  nearly  three  hours,  and  serve  with  the  vegetables  round  as 
before,  and  a  suet  pudding  separate ;  if  for  cold  do  not  take  the  tape  from  it 
until  cold,  trim  the  top,  run  a  silver  skewer  in  at  the  extremity,  and  serve 
garnished  with  sprigs  of  very  green  fresh  parsley. 

No.  7.  Brisket  of  Beef  The  whole  brisket  would  require  pickling  for  a 
week,  it  must  not  be  too  fat ;  this  being  a  long  awkward  joint  may  be  cut  in 
two,  and  served  upon  separate  occasions,  boil  about  five  hours  and  serve  as  for 
the  last  two,  with  the  vegetables  aroimd  it ;  when  upon  table  it  must  be  cut 
into  thin  slices,  fat  and  lean  in  fair  proportions.  The  remains  of  a  brisket  of 
beef  are  excellent  when  cold. 

No.  8.  Brisket  of  Beef  ^  la  Garrick,  This  dish  will,  I  am  sure,  be  as 
popular  with  the  English  public  as  the  celebrated  tragedian  and  comedian 
whose  name  I  have  borrowed,  even  if  he  were  now  alive.  Procure  a  nice 
brisket  of  beef  with  as  little  fat  as  possible  attached,  if  too  much  cut  a  little  of 
it  ofiT,  and  detach  the  whole  of  the  bones  from  it,  then  make  a  pickle  with 
twenty  pounds  of  salt,  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  saltpetre,  four  cakes  of 
sal  prunella,  two  pounds  of  moist  sugar,  and  two  cloves  of  garlic,  with  which 
rub  the  meat  well,  and  leave  it  rather  more  than  a  week,  rubbing  and  turning 
it  over  every  day ;  then  drain  and  cut  it  into  two  equal  parts,  place  one  upon 
the  other,  mixing  the  fat  and  lean  well,  tie  them  together,  and  afterwards  in 
a  clean  doth,  put  into  a  large  stewpan  or  stock-pot  containing  six  gallons  of 
water,  and  let  simmer  for  eight  hours,  (but  to  ascertain  correctly  if  done  run 
a  trussing-needle  into  it,  if  tender  it  is  quite  done ;).  then  take  it  out  and  let 
it  remain  ten  minutes  upon  a  dish  to  drain,  have  ready  a  large  tin  dish-cover, 
eighteen  inches  long,  twelve  wide,  and  deep  in  proportion,  place  it  upon  a 
trivet  and  put  the  Wf  into  it,  opening  the  cloth  to  lie  smoothly  in  the  cover, 
and  with  a  fork  arranging  the  meat,  fat  and  lean  together,  all  over  the 
bottom ;  you  have  a  common  piece  of  board  half  an  inch  in  thickness  made 
to  fit  into  the  cover,  place  it  upon  the  meat  with  half  a  hundred  weight  upon 
it,  and  let  remain  in  a  cold  place  until  the  next  morning,  then  take  off*  the 
weight  and  the  board,  pull  the  cloth  gently  at  each  angle,  and  when  loose 
turn  it  over  upon  your  oish,  take  the  cloth  off  gently,  garnish  with  sprigs  of 
parsley,  fresh  watercresses,  and  small  radishes  (if  in  season),  cut  in  thm  strips 
crosswise.  Nothing  could  be  nicer  than  this  for  a  breiJcfast  or  luncheon, 
it  will  keep  good  a  fortnight  in  winter,  and  as  long  as  a  week  in  the  summer 
by  putting  it  in  a  cold  place.  I  have  frequently  made  some  in  my 
Kitchen  at  Home,  procuring  a  piece  weighing  ten  or  twelve- pounds,  from 
the  bones  and  trimmings  of  which  I  have  also  made  very  excellent  soup, 
which  last  of  course  must  be  fresh.  The  pickling  will  answer  to  salt  three  or 
four  other  joints,  as  it  will  keep  good  nearly  a  month  in  summer,  and  much 
longer  in  winter. 

No.  9.  Haunch  of  Mutton,    The  haunch  is  the  most  important  joint  from 


644  KITCHEK  AT  HOME. 

tiie  ifaeep,  it  reqnirM  but  little  trimmini;,  •ntl  to  be  hung  abonit  three  wed:* 
(bcuod  permittina;).  Saw  aboat  three  indws  from  the  knuckle,  detach  all 
the  akin  from  the  loin,  and  pat  it  npon  a  apit,  commenrinK  mnning  the  ^>it 
in  at  the  knuckle  anil  bringing  it  out  at  the  flap,  avoiding  the  fillet  M  the  loin 
<a  cradle  apit  maj  be  need  for  this  joint,)  aet  it  down  at  the  distance  of  two 
feet  fVom  a  good  aolid  flie,  and  if  weighing  about  twenty  pounda  it  reqnins 
two  hour*  and  a  half  roasting,  ten  minntes  after  it  is  down  rub  it  orer  with 
hotter,  which  yon  ha*e  fiied  in  the  bowl  of  a  wooden  spoon,  it  will  form  a 
kind  of  froth  orer  it,  then  place  it  back  three  feet  from  the  fire,  where  let  h 
coDtinne  nntil  done,  if  approved  of,  shake  over  a  little  flonr  Aront  a  floor- 
dredge  a  quarter  of  an  hour  before  taking  it  up,  when  done  dress  upon  your 
dish  with  a  paper  frill  upon  the  knnckle  and  about  half  a  pint  of  gravy  under. 
If  the  meat  u  rather  ht  the  butter  may  be  omitted. 

Ho.  10.  Soyer'a  SaddU-back  of  MvHtm.  This  ia  an  entirely  new  joint 
which  T  have  introdnced  in  this  present  month,  April  1846.  1  have  served  it 
but  three  times  in  our  coffee-room,  where  it  gave  the  greatest  satiifisction  to 
those  who  had  partaken  of  it,  having  dined  from  fif^n  to  eighteen  each, 
whilst  two  sadcUea,  which  would  weigh  six  or  eight  pounds  more,  wonld  not 
dine  more  than  seven  or  eight  if  badly  carved,  or  more  than  ten  if  properly 
carved  in  the  usual  maimer.  The  cut  is  a  correct  representation  of  the  appear- 
ance of  the  new  jcnnt,  which  aervea  to  indicate  the  mode  of  carving.  It  is 
composed  of  the  two  loins  and  two  necks  of  a  eheep  trimmed  into  the  form  of 
a  double  saddle,  without  interfering  in  the  least  with  the  legs  and  shonlder*. 
which  would  cause  a  serions  loaa  to  the  butcher. 


Trim  and  dispose  the  eaddle-back  as  follows :  aaw  the  centre  bone  of  the 
back  as  &r  as  the  saddle,  dividing  it  but  not  cutting  the  meat  or  making  a 
hole  through,  then  irith  a  small  saw  divide  each  joint,  so  as  to  admit  of  the 
necks  being  cut  into  chops  in  carving,  when  well  separated  talce  a  piece  of  a 
good  length  from  the  ends  of  the  rib  bones,  trim  the  tixpe,  tnm  them  nnder, 
fixing  them  with  skewers  and  string,  giving  the  proper  shape  as  the  design 
represents,  pull  the  sldn  from  the  whole  back,  melt  two  ounces  of  butter, 
which  rub  over  with  a  paste  brush  to  give  a  good  appearance  and  let  remain 
five  or  six  days  previous  to  roasting,  weather  permitting.  To  roast,  pass  a 
long  saddle-of-mntton  spit  through  the  spinat-marrow-bone,  bringing  it  out 
at  the  ends  of  the  necks,  fix  it  to  a  Isiger  spit,  and  place  at  a  good  distance 
from  a  moderate  fire  for  nearly  three  bonis  ;  avoid  basting,  but  a  quarter  of  an 
hour  before  taking  up  shake  a  little  fiour  mixed  vith  some  finely-ground  rice 
over,  which  is  very  good  for  a  little  change.  This  joint  looks  very  noble, 
and  does  not  appear  too  large  when  roasted.     For  a  small  dinner  a  saddle- 


KITCHSN  AT  HOME.  645 

back  of  Welsh  mutton  or  lamb  will  mAke  a  very  fine  remove.  To  carve^ 
commence  by  paasing  your  knife  down  the  back  where  nothing  but  the  meat 
and  akin  holds  it  together>  and  from  thence  crosswise  to  the  flap,  serving  a 
cutlet  and  a  slice  between  to  each  person,  continuing  the  same  way  through 
the  saddle ;  you  will  thus  carve  the  meat  according  to  the  grain,  and  produce 
fresh  hot  gravy  for  each  person  as  you  proceed  carving.  Should  any  remain, 
it  is  fit  either  to  be  sent  cold  to  table  or  dressed  otherwise  advantageously. 

No.  1 1 .  Saddle  of  Mutton,  Procure  a  fine  saddle  of  mutton,  about  fourteen 
pounds  in  weight,  that  has  been  kept  some  time,  take  off  the  skin  with  a 
knife,  and  skewer  the  flaps  under,  run  a  lark-spit  through  the  spinal  marrow- 
bone, which  spit  affix  to  a  larger  one,  and  place  down  to  roast  as  directed  for 
.  the  saddle-back  ;  it  will  require  about  an  hour  and  three  quarters  roasting, 
and  must  be  carved  as  in  the  last. 

No.  12.  Leg  of  Mutton^  A  leg  weighing  eieht  pounds  would  take  about 
an  hour  and  a  half  roasting ;  run  tne  spit  in  under  the  thigh-bone  and  bring 
it  out  at  the  knuckle,  roast  it  as  described  for  the  haunch,  and  send  to  table 
with  a  frill  upon  the  knuckle. 

When  I  have  a  leg  of  mutton  to  roast  in  my  kitchen  I  make  a  small  incision 
at  the  knuckle  two  or  three  days  before  roasting,  in  which  I  put  two  or  three 
cloves  of  garlic,  it  will  give  the  mutton  a  fine  and  peculiar  flavour,  not  at  all 
resembling  the  strong,  and  to  some  objectionable,  flavour  of  garlic.  I  fre- 
quently serve  it  with  haricot  beans  under  it,  dressed  as  directed  (No.  1094). 

No.  13.  Shoulder  of  Mutton  of  seven  or  eight  pounds  weight  will  require 
about  one  hour  roasting ;  run  the  spit  in  at  the  flap  and  bring  it  out  at  the 
knuckle,  observe  the  same  directions  as  before,  not  baating,  but  merely 
rubbing  it  over  with  the  butter. 

No.  14.  Loin  of  Mutton.  A  loin  weighing  six  pounds  would  require  an 
hour  to  roast ;  take  ofl"  all  the  skin  with  a  knife,  and  separate  the  joints  with  a 
chopper,  not  cutting  through  the  fillet ;  run  a  lark-spit  through  from  one 
extremity  to  the  other  and  affix  it  to  a  larger  spit,  observe  the  same  directions 
in  roasting  as  for  the  haunch.  This  is  a  very  favorite  dish  of  mine  at  home, 
where  I  in  general  joint  it  with  a  meat-saw  so  as  to  enable  me  to  carve  it  into 
thin  slanting  chops,  which  look  so  much  more  inviting  in  the  plate  than  those 
huge  pieces  which  are  generally  carved. 

No.  15.  Neck  of  Mutton.  This  I  call  a  very  recherche  little  joint  when 
well  kept ;  it  must  be  nicely  trimmed,  sawing  through  the  bones  at  the  tips 
of  the  ribs,  which  detach  from  the  meat,  folding  the  flan  over ;  saw  off  the 
chine-bone,  and  with  a  knife  detach  the  remainder  of  the  bone  from  the  fillet, 
detach  the  skin  from  the  upper  part,  fix  the  fiap  under  with  a  couple  of  skewers, 
run  a  long  flat  iron  skewer  through  the  centre,  from  one  extremity  to  the  other, 
fix  it  to  a  hu*ger  spit,  roast  (if  weighing  five  pounds)  nearly  three  quarters  of 
an  hour,  observing  the  same  directions  as  before,  carve  it  crosswise,  cutting  it 
in  cotelettes,  one  of  which,  with  a  bone,  serve  to  each  guest. 

No.  16.  Boiled  Leg  of  Mutton,  Cut  the  knuckle  from  a  leg  of  mutton 
which  has  been  hung  some  time,  put  into  an  oval  braising-pan  well  covered 
with  cold  water,  in  which  you  have  put  two  ounces  of  salt,  place  it  upon  a 
sharp  fire  until  boiling,  when  skim  well,  and  place  it  upon  the  comer  of  the 
fire  to  simmer  about  two  hours,  that  is,  if  the  leg  does  not  exceed  more  tfhan 


646  KITCHEN  AT  HOME. 

nine  pounds  in  weight;  abont  half  an  hour  before  H  ia  done  add  a  dooeii 
turnips,  peeled  and  cut  into  quarters,  when  done  take  it  np,  dress  upon  a  dish 
with  the  turnips  around,  place  a  frill  upon  the  knuckle,  pour  neariy  half  a 
pint  of  the  liquor  it  was  boiled  in  over,  and  serve  with  caper  sauce  (No.  67) 
in  a  boat.  Observe,  in  boiling  any  description  of  meat,  fast  boilii^  woold 
not  cook  it  any  quicker,  but  cause  it  to  eat  very  hard  and  bad. 

At  home  I  have  tried  to  cook  them  by  placmg  them  in  the  wafer  whilst 
boiling,  and  when  again  beginning  to  boil  drawing  it  to  the  corner  of  the  fire ; 
it  certainly  saves  a  Uttle  time,  but  does  not  eat  so  tender  as  when  put  into  cold 
water.  I  generally  there  mash  turnips  and  serve  them  separately  (I  do  not 
like  them  main  and  watery,  although  I  consider  they  must  be  much  more 
wholesome).  Place  the  turnips  when  boiled  into  a  stewpan,  add  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,' a  quarter  ditto  of  p^per,  two  ounces  of  butter  with  which 
you  have  mixed  half  a  tablespoonfm  of  flour,  and  four  tablespoonfuls  of  cream 
or  milk,  mix  all  well  together  over  the  fire  with  a  wooden  spoon.  For  caper 
sauce  I  mix  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  with  an  ounce  of  butter  and  put  it  in  a 
smallish  stewpan,  add  half  a  pint  of  the  hquor  the  mutton  was  boiled  in,  stir 
over  the  fire  until  upon  the  point  of  boiling,  when  add  a  quarter  of  a  table- 
spoonful  of  salt,  quarter  that  quantity  of  pepper,  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  and  a 
good  spoonful  of  drained  pickled  capers  ;  then  add  another  ounce  of  butter, 
shake  round  over  the  fire,  and  when  melted  it  is  finished.  I  sometimes  also 
add  a  spoonful  of  liaison,  it  gives  it  a  rich  colour. 

No.  17.  Shoulder  of  Mutton  (boiled).  Choose  a  very  tender  one,  weighing 
about  seven  pounds,  cut  ofi"  the  knuckle,  and  boil  it  as  above ;  one  hour  and  a 
half  would  be  sufficient. 

Wblsh  Mutton. — ^No.  18.  Saddle-hack  of  JTeUh  Mutton.  Trim  and 
truss  it  as  South  Down  mutton,  it  will  take  one  hour  less  roaating ;  you  may 
butter  twice  over. 

No.  19.  Haunch.  If  weighing  twelve  pounds  roast  it  an  hour  and  a  half  as 
directed  (in  proportion)  for  the  haunch  of  mutton,  but  if  deficient  of  fiit  rub 
it  over  with  butter  three  or  four  times  instead  of  once. 

No.  20.  Saddle.     Ifweighing  eight  pounds  roast  it  an  hour  and  a  quarter. 

No.  21.  Leff.     If  weighing  five  pounds  roast  it  an  hour. 

No.  22.  Loin.     If  weighing  four  pounds  roast  three  quarters  of  an  hour. 

No.  23.  Neck.     If  weighing  three  pounds  roast  it  half  an  hour. 

No.  24.  Shoulder.  If  weighing  four  pounds  roast  it  three  quarters  of  an 
hour.    Loin  and  neck  about  the  same  time* 

No.  25.  Lamb  is  divided  into  but  three  principal  joints,  being  the  fore> 
quarter,  haunch,  and  saddle,  two  joints  may  be  made  of  each  by  separating 
the  shoulder  from  the  ribs,  the  leg  from  the  loin,  or  dividing  the  saddle,  but 
they  are  usually  roasted  together. 

To  trim  the  fore-quarter  saw  off  the  chine-bone,  and  break  the  rib-bones 
down  the  centre,  pass  two  iron  skewers  from  the  breast  to  the  back,  and  a 
lark-spit  through  lengthwise,  fix  it  upon  a  larger  spit,  cover  a  sheet  of  buttered 
paper  over  the  top,  and  roast  an  hour  and  a  quarter  before  a  good  fire,  rubbing 
Dutter  over  it,  it  would  be  a  light  gold  colour ;  should  the  shoulder  have  been 
taken  off  it  wiU  only  require  three  quarters  of  an  hour  to  roast,  serve  in  a 
dish  with  a  little  gravy  under,  and  mint  sauee  in  a  boat. 

The  haunch  must  be  trimmed  by  cutting  off  the  shank-bone,  place  it  upon 
a  amaU  spit  by  running  the  spit  in  at  the  extremity  of  the  loin,  passing  over 


T'm* 


KITCHEN  AT  HOME.  647 

the  ttdgb-bone,  and  brmging  it  out  at  the  knuckle,  which  tie  to  the  spit  with 
a  piece  of  string ;  place  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper  over,  and  roast  an  hour  and 
three-quarters  before  a  solid  fire  ;  place  a  frul  upon  the  knuckle,  and  serve  as 
before.     The  leg  only  would  require  one  hour  roasting. 

For  the  saddle,  skewer  the  flaps  underneath,  curling  each  one  round,  run  a 
lark-spit  through  the  spinal  marrow-bone,  and  fix  it  to  a  larger  spit ;  place  a 
sheet  of  buttered  paper  over,  and  roast  an  hour  and  a  half  before  a  good  fire, 
dress  upon  your  dish  and  serve  as  for  the  fore-quarter. 

'  No.  26.  FUlH  of  Veal.  Choose  it  of  the  best  quality,  as  described  at  the 
commencement  of  this  series.  Procure  a  leg,  saw  off  the  knuckle,  take  out  the 
bone  in  the  centre  of  the  fillet,  and  fill  up  the  cavity  with  some  stuffing  made 
as  directed  (No.  127),  fold  the  udder  and  flap  roiud,  which  ^  with  three 
skewers  ;  place  half  a  sheet  of  buttered  foolscap  paper  top  and  bottom,  which 
tie  over  and  over  with  plenty  of  string,  run  a  spit  through,  fixing  the  fillet 
with  a  hold'&st,  set  down  to  roast,  placing  it  rather  dose  to  the  fire  ten 
minutes,  rub  well  over  with  butter,  then  place  it  at  least  two  feet  and  a  half 
from  the  fire,  to  roast  very  slowly,  giving  it  a  fine  gold  colour ;  a  fillet  weigh- 
ing sixteen  pounds  would  require  three  hours  roasting,  when  done,  take  it  up, 
detach  aU  the  string  and  paper,  trim  the  top  and  set  it  upon  your  dish  ;  have 
a  pint  of  melted  butter  in  a  stewx>an  upon  the  fire,  to  which,  when  boiling, 
add  four  spoonfuls  of  Harvey  sauce,  and  two  of  mushroom  catsup,  mix  weU, 
and  pour  round  the  fillet ;  have  also  boiled  nicely  an  ox-tongue,  which  skin 
and  trim,  dress  upon  a  dish  surrounded  with  greens  or  cabbage  nicely  boiled, 
and  serve  as  an  accompaniment  to  the  fiUet. 

In  my  small  kitchen  I,  however,  content  myself  with  a  nice  piece  of  streaked 
bacon,  of  about  two  pounds  in  weight,  boiled  and  served  surrounded  with  greens 
or  turnip-tops  if  in  season.  For  the  different  modes  of  dressing  the  remainder, 
see  the  Entinges,  Kitchen  at  Home. 

No.  27.  Loin  of  Veal.  Procure  one  with  plenty  of  fat  and  a  nice  kidney  in 
it,  cut  off  the  chump,  take  away  the  rib-bone  at  the  other  extremity,  and  fasten 
the  fiap  over  the  kidney  with  a  skewer,  run  a  spit  through  lengthwise  (not  too 
thick  a  one),  commencing  at  the  thickest  end,  and  fixing  it  at  the  other  ex- 
tremity with  a  hold-fast,  tie  it  up  in  a  sheet  of  oiled  paper ;  if  weighing 
fourteen  pounds  it  will  require  two  hours  and  a  quarter  to  roast,  serve  with 
sauce  and  tongue,  or  bacon,  as  in  the  last,  upon  a  separate  dish.  At  home  I 
UBually  content  myself  with  the  chump,  as  taken  from  the  loin,  either  roasting 
or  boiling  it,  should  it  weigh  four  pounds  it  would  require  an  hour  roasting, 
or  an  hour  and  a  quarter  boiling ;  if  roasted,  serve  with  bacon  and  the  same 
sauce  as  for  the  fillet,  but  if  boiled  I  make  half  the  quantity  of  sauce  as  for 
boiled  leg  of  mutton,  but  omitting  the  capers,  .and  adding  a  spoonful  of 
roughly-chopped,  fresh,  green  parsley.  Dress  the  remains  the  second  day  as 
directed  in  the  Entries,  Kitchen  at  Home. 

No.  28.  Breast  of  Veal,  Procure  a  nice  breast  of  veal,  which  trim  as 
directed  (No.  455),  stuff  the  interior  with  a  long  roll  of  stuffing  (No.  127), 
roll  the  flaps  over  and  sew  it  up  with  a  trussing-needle  and  string,  place  it 
upon  a  spit,  running  it  through  lengthwise,  and  roast  one  hour  and  a  quarter 
as  directed  for  the  loin,  serve  with  the  same  sauce,  and  bacon  and  sreens 
separate.  The  breast  of  veal  stewed  is  also  good,  but  for  the  details  1  must 
refer  to  the  Removes  in  the  first  part  of  this  work.  At  home  I  stew  them, 
and  add  a  few  heads  of  celery  witn  the  stock  it  is  stewing  in,  which  I  after 


648  KITCHEN  AT  HOMS. 

Vftids  drew  roimd  the  Teal,  and  nuike  a  litttle  vhite  niiee  nmilar  to  Ho.  7, 
with  some  of  the  liquor  it  waa  atewed  in,  or  thicken  the  sanee  with  a  kttle 
batter  and  flour,  and  add  a  gill  of 


No.  29*  Sktmider  pf  Veal,  A  ahoolder  weighing  foivteen  poinds 
would  require  two  hours  and  a  half  to  roast,  and  three  hoora  to  boil,  aerfe 
with  a  panley  and  butter  tauoe  if  boiled,  or  if  roasted,  with  sanoe  as  for  tiie 
fillet ;  bacon  and  greens  must  be  sened  with  it  separate,  whicherer  way  it  ia 
dressed. 

Should  you  boll  the  shoulder  add  a  few  vegetables,  andyoa  may  redoee  the 
stock  it  was  boiled  in  to  a  glaae  (by  continual  boiling),  which  will  be  Tery 
serviceable  in  dressing  the  remains  upon  following  days ;  by  boiling  a  calTa 
foot  with  the  shoulder  you  would  produce  a  much  greater  quantity  of  g^ase. 

No.  30.  Ntch  of  Veal  is  usually  served  as  the  shoulder,  either  roasted  or 
stewed,  with  vegetables,  but  I  have  described  a  number  of  methods  of  dressing 
it  in  the  Removes  of  the  first  department  of  this  work. 

No.  31.  JTiitieit^of  Tea/ is  a  very  favorite  dish  of  mine;  I  procure  two  of 
them,  which  I  saw  into  three  pieces  each,  and  put  intoastewpanwithapieoe 
of  streaked  bacon  two  pounds  in  weight,  four  onions,  a  carrot,  two  turnips, 
and  six  peppercorns,  place  over  the  fire,  and  when  boiling  add  a  little 
salt,  skim  wdll,  and  place  at  the  comer  to  simmer  gently  for  two  hours, 
take  up,  dress  them  in  your  dish  surrounded  with  the  vegetables  and  bacon, 
and  serve  with  parsley  and  butter  over ;  very  good  soup  ma^  be  made  from 
the  stock  it  was  boQcd  in  if  required,  or  if  not,  into  glaae,  which  put  by  until 
wanted. 

No.  32.  Leg  of  Pork,  Choose  the  pork  as  described  at  the  commencement 
of  this  sezies,  if  a  leg,  one  weighing  about  seven  pounds,  cut  an  incision  in  the 
knuckle  near  the  thigh,  into  whidi  put  a  quantity  of  sagpe  and  onions,  pre- 
viously passed  in  butter,  sew  the  incision  up  with  packthread,  score  the  rind 
of  the'pork  in  lines  across,  half  an  vaxAx  apart,  place  upon  a  spit,  running  it  in 
just  under  the  rind,  and  bringing  it  out  at  the  knuckle.  If  stuffed  the  day 
previous  to  roasting  it  would  improve  its  flavour ;  roast,  if  weighing  seven 
pounds,  about  two  hours  and  a  half,  and  serve  with  apple  sauce  in  a  boat. 

I  often  roast  a  small  leg  of  pork  at  home  as  directed  above,  and  make  apple 
sauce  thus :  ped  and  slice  six  nice  apples,  which  put  into  a  stewpan,  with  a 
tablespoon^  of  currants  well  wai^d  and  picked,  and  one  of  brown  sugar,  a 
little  of  the  rind  of  a  lemon  chopped  very  fine,  six  spoonfuls  of  water,  and  a 
very  small  piece  of  cinnamon,  boil  until  in  pur6e,  then  stir  in  a  handful 
of  bread-crumbs,  and  serve,  hot.  When,  however,  I  am  in  a  great  hurry  I 
merely  put  apples,  water,  sugar,  and  a  little  rind  of  lemon.  Otiier  joints  of 
pork  are  roasted  in  the  same  manner,  but  do  not  require  stuffing,  a  loin 
weighing  six  pounds  requiring  two  hours  and  a  quarter  to  roast ;  a  neck 
of  the  same  size  will  take  about  the  same  time,  as  will  the  spare-ribs,  which 
is  nothing  but  the  necks  of  larger  pork  with  the  blade-bone  cut  out  and  the 
fat  taken  off. 

No.  33.  Salt  Pork.  Pork  is  salted  in  the  same  manner  as  described 
for  beef,  omitting  the  saltpetre,  but  of  course  not  requiring  so  long  a  time ; 
a  leg  weighing  seven  pounds  would  be  well  salted  in  a  week,  as  also  would  a 
hand  and  spring  weighing  about  ten  pounds,  and  either  would  require  two 


KITCHEN  AT  HOHB.  649 

hours  boiling,  putting  them  in  a  stewpan  vith  eold  water,  and  sernng  with 
canroU  and  greens  upon  a  separate  dish.  With  the  leg  it  is  also  customary 
to  serve  a  pease  pudding  maae  thus :  tie  about  a  pint  of  split  peas  loosely  in  a 
pudding-cloth,  throw  them  into  boiling  water  to  stew  until  tender,  then  take 
them  up,  turn  from  the  cloth  upon  the  back  of  a  hair  sieve,  through  which 
force  them  witii  a  wooden  spoon,  put  them  into  a  basin,  add  two  ounces  of 
butter,  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  mix  well  with  six  whole  eggs,  tie  up 
tightly  in  a  pudding-cloth,  boil  an  hour  and  serve  very  hot. 

A  pig's  head  is  also  excellent  pickled.  Divide  the  head  in  two,  take  out  the 
brains  and  detach  the  jaw-bones,  pickle  it  twelve  days,  rubbing  it  every  day, 
(the  brine  in  which  you  have  pickled  one  joint,  with  the  addition  of  more 
salt,  would  pickle  several  and  keep  good  for  upwards  of  a  month ;)  when  ready, 
boil  it  nearly  three  hours,  and  serve  with  greens  round  as  an  accompaniment 
to  veal  or  poultry.  To  pickle  it  red,  rub  it  well  with  twelve  pounds  of  salt,  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  saltpetre,  two  cakes  of  sal  prunella,  ana  half  a  pound  of 
coarse  sugar,  rub  it  every  day,  allowing  it  to  remain  fifteen  days  in  pickle,  after 
which  it  may  be  hung,  and  dried  or  smoked  previously  to  dressing. 


IIADB  DISHES  THAT  CAN  BE  EASILY  PREPARED  AT  A  MODERATE  EXPENSE  IN 

MY  KITCHEN  AT  HOME. 

Pleaching  economy  which  has  been  practised  from  age  to  age  in  all  domestic 
works  is  not  here  my  intention,  as  my  readers  must  quickly  perceive  that  the 
simplicity  of  my  receipts  excludes  the  seal  of  extravagance,  having  simplified 
even  dishes  of  some  importance,  which  daily  give  and  have  given  the  greatest 
satisfaction  at  the  Reform  Club. 

The  regular  courses  of  a  cuisine  bourgeoise,  or  domestic  cookery,  will  be 
found  extremely  easy  to  execute  in  my  Kitcben  at  Home,  and  numbers  of 
them  done  to  perfection  in  the  Kitchen  (or  sanctorum)  of  a  Bachelor,  as  well 
as  in  the  small  Cottage  Kitchen. 

No.  34.  French  Pot-au-feu.  Out  of  this  earthen  pot  comes  the  favorite 
soup  and  bouilli,  which  have  been  everlastingly  famed  as  having  been  the 
support  of  several  generations  of  all  classes  of  society  in  France ;  from  the 
opident  to  the  poorest  individuals,  all  pay  tribute  to  its  excellence  and  worth. 
In  fact  this  soup  and  bouilli  are  to  the  French  what  the  roast  beef  and  plum- 
pudding  are  on  a  Sunday  to  the  English.  No  dinner  in  France  is  served 
without  soup,  and  no  good  soup  is  supposed  to  be  made  without  the  pot-au- 
feu.  Generally  every  quarter  of  a  century  makes  a  total  alteration  in  fashions 
and  politics,  need  I  say  also  in  cookery,  which  must  be  approximated  not 
onlv  to  the  fashion  but  more  strongly  so  to  the  political  world,  humbly  bending 
its  indispensable  services  to  the  whims  and  wishes  of  crowned  heads,  which 
invariably  lead  the  multitude ;  for  example,  the  bills  of  fare  of  the  sumptuous 
dinners  which  used  to  grace  the  tables  of  Louis  the  Fourteenth,  Sixteenth, 
and  Eighteenth,  of  France,  were  all  very  different  to  each  other,  and  none  of 
them  were  ever  copied  to  grace  the  sumptuous  and  luxurious  tables  of  the 
Empire  ;  even  the  very  features  of  them  having  undergone  an  entire  cbange 
in  our  own  days ;  every  culinary  invention  taking  its  title  and  origin  from 
some  celebrated  personage  or  extraordinary  event,  every  innovation  in  cookery, 
like  a  change  in  fashion,  causing  us  to  forget  those  dishes  which  they  have 
superseded ;  I  have  no  doubt  but  that,  if  some  correct  historian  could  collect 
the  bills  of  fare  of  dinners  from  various  centuries  and  nations  which  crowned 


650  KITCHEN  AT  HOME. 

hcftdi  hftTe  partaken  o(  he  might  write  a  Tery  intereatiiig  Tolume  under  the 
title  of  History  of  Cookery,  in  which  we  ahoald  be  able  closely  to  trace  the 
original  history  of  different  conntries.*   Nothing  can  stamp  the  anniveraary  of 
any  great  event  bo  well  aa  a  snmptuoaa  banquet :  peace,  war,  politica,  and  even 
religion,  have  always  been  the  cause  of  extraordinary  and  sometimes  monstrous 
gastronomic  meetings ;  for  a  proof  of  which  my  resders  will  find  at  the  end  of 
this  work  a  correct  bill  of  fim  (found  in  the  Tower  of  London,)  of  a  dinner 
given  by  the  Earl  of  Warwick  at  the  installation  of  an  Archbishop  of  York,  in 
the  year  1470.      In  time  of  war  artists  are  engaged  sketching  on  immense 
canvasses  the  horrors  and  disasters  of  a  battle,  whue  in  peace  they  sketch  the 
anniversary  banquets  for  the  rictorious,  in  honour  of  the  event,  (reminding 
us  of  the  calm  aipter  a  storm ;)  and  we  may  sincerely  hope,  for  the  credit  of 
humanity  at  large,  that  a  disastrous  battle  may  have  its  hundreds  of  anni- 
versary banquets  without  a  fresh  combat.     But  to  return  to  the  humble  but 
indispensable  science  of  cookery.      Everything  seems  to  prove  to  us  that  it 
has  always  performed  an  important  part  in  political  events^  and  has  been 
exposed  to  as  manv  alterations ;  still*  amongst  so  many  changes,  it  is  with  a 
national  pleasure  that  I  find,  amongst  the  heap  of  frivolous  culinary  ruins,  an 
old  favorite  of  our  great  greatg;rand£Kthers  still  remaining  ours,  having  boldly 
passed  through  every  storm,  it  has  for  ever  established  its  culinary  power 
upon  our  changeable  soil.     The  brown  cheek  of  this  demi-immortal  is  daily 
seen  ornamenting  the  firesides  of  millions,  and  merely  acquaints  the  children 
the  first  thing  in  the  morning  that  something  good  is  in  preparation  for  their 
dinner  :  this  mighty  vessel  is  called  in  Frendi  fot'aiurfeu.;\  m  which  is  made 
that  excellent  and  wholesome  luxury  which  for  centuries  has  been  the  principal 
nourishment  and  support  of  the  middling  and  poorer  classes  of  France  at  a 
very  trifling  expense.     It  is  not  upon  the  tables  of  the  wealthy  that  the  best 
of  this  national  soup  is  to  be  obtamed,  but  upon  the  right  or  left  side  of  the 
entrance  to  his  noble  mansion,  in  a  square,  oval,  or  octagonal  room,  commonly 
called  la  Loge  du  Portier,  or  the  Porter's  Lodge ;  as  nearly  every  porter  has 
his  portiere,  that  is,  a  wife  who  answers  the  door  (whilst  her  husband  is  doing 
the  frottaee,  or  polishing  the  floor  of  the  apartment),  while  pulling  the  string 
or  wire  which  loosens  the  lock  to  let  people  in  with  one  hand,  she  skims  the 
pot-au-/eu  with  the  other ;  should  she  be  fortunate  enough  to  possess  two  eyes 
she  would  keep  one  upon  her  pot-au-feu^  and  the  other  upon  the  individual, 
who  had,  probably,  come  only  to  make  inquiry ;  but  unfortunately  for  La  Mbte 
Binard  (whom  I  shall  have  the  pleasure  of  introducing  to  my  readers  as  a 
gastronomic  wonder  in  her  simple  style),  she  had  but  one  eye,  which  she 
almost  entirely  devoted  to  the  ebullition  of  her  pot-au-feu ;  having  been 
portiere  there  two-and-thirty  years,  she  knew  most  of  the  people  in  the  habit 
of  calling  by  their  voice,  and  used  to  answer  them  even  vrithout  turning  her 
shaking  head.     But  what  brought  her  domestic  cookery  in  such  high  repute, 
that  she  was  not  to  be  excelled  by  any  porti^  of  Paris,  was,  that  one  day  her 
master,  M.  le  Comte  de  C  *  *  *  *  (who  was  a  good  gentleman  and  great 
epicure),  came  home  from  a  long  ride  while  she  was  performing  her  humble 
occupation  of  pouring  the  soup  into  the  tureen  ;  a  triple  knock  came  to  the 
door,  which  immediately  opened  as  by  electricity,  and  in  walked  her  beloved 

*  Especially  in,  France,  where  cookeiy  was  first  cradled,  and  has  ever  since  been  wdl 
nnrsed. 

t  Being  a  brown  earthen  pot,  which  costs  about  sixpence  or  a  slullin^,  and  which 
with  core  would  last  twenty  years  \  the  more  it  is  used  the  better  soap  it  makes. 


KITCHEN  AT  HOME.  651 

miuiter,  vho  came  .o  the  door  of  the  lodge  to  pay  his  duties  to  his  old  and 
faithful  servant,  whilst  an  exhalation  of  the  most  delicious  firagrance  perfumed 
the  small  apartment  from  the  boiling  consomm^  which  attracted  his  scientific 
attention ;  after  a  short  inquiry  he  discovered  in  an  old  brown  pan  the 
gloriously  smoking  hot  oonsomm^,  and  seizing  with  avidity  a  spoon  by  the 
Bide>  tasted  (much  to  the  astonishment  of  La  M^re  Binard)  several  spooDfuls, 
pronouncing  the  first  delicioasy  the  second  excellent,  the  third  delightful,  in 
fact,  magnificent.  "Can  you  spare  any  of  it?"  he  said,  addressing  the 
worthy  dame.  "  Yes,"  said  she,  '*  but  I  am  sure  Monseigneur  does  not 
mean  it."  "  But  indeed  I  do,"  replied  he ;  "  and  if  I  had  been  aware  I 
could  have  obtained  such  a  treasure,  I  would  have  had  nothing  else  for  my 
dinner  to-day ;  aud  if  you  were  not  so  far  advanced  in  years  I  would  not 
object  to  make  you  a  cordon  bleu."  The  earthen  pan  was  immediately 
conveyed  up  stairs  to  the  dining-room,  and  deposited  upon  the  table  of  his 
seigneurie,  where  an  excellent  dinner  was  waiting  for  himself  and  friends ; 
but  the  immortal  pot-itu-feu,  resting  on  a  superb  silver  tray,  with  its  handle 
half  broken  ofi^,  made  all  the  homage  of  the  dinner,  to  the  great  annoyance 
of  the  cook,  who  had  thus  sacrificed  the  art  he  had  displayed  in  dressing 
a  most  recherche  dinner,  and  felt  much  offended  at  the  whim  of  his 
wealthy  master,  who  had  neglected  his  dinner  to  take  pot-luck  with  his 
porter's  wife. 

By  a  friendly  introduction  to  La  M^re  Binard,  I,  with  a  great  deal  of  sup- 
plication, obtained  from  her  the  following  valuable  receipt^  having  been 
obliged  first  to  listen  to  the  constant  repetition  of  the  above  anecdote  before 
she  could  explain  it  to  me.^"  I  generallv  choose,"*  says  she,  "a  bit  of  the 
ffite  h  la  noix,  part  of  the  aitch-bone,  a  piece  of  the  rump,  or  a  slice  from  the 
thickest  part  of  the  leg,  weighing  from  four  to  five  pounds^  with  sufficient  fat 
attached,  or  adding  a  small  piece  ;  then  I  put  it  into  the  earthen  pan,  and  fill 
with  cold  water  till  within  two  inches  of  the  rim,  being  about  four  quarts ; 
then  I  set  it  by  my  wood  fire  until  beginning  to  get  hot,  when  a  thin  scum 
will  arise  by  degrees,  which  I  carefully  take  off  and  throw  away  ;  then  I  add 
half  a  pound  of  beef  liver,  and  a  tablespoonfhl  and  a  half  of  salt,  it  will  pro- 
duce more  scum,  which  also  carefiiUy  remove ;  have  ready  prepared,  well 
washed  and  clean,  two  middling-sized  carrots  cut  in  halves^  then  in  four,  two 
small  pieces  of  parsnip,  four  turnips,  two  onions,  with  two  cloves  stuck  in 
each,  eight  yoimg  leeks,  or  two  old  ones^  a  head  of  celery  cut  into  pieces 
three  inches  in  length,  tie  the  leeks  and  celery  into  a  bunch,  and  put 
altogether  into  the  pot-(tu-/eu,  set  it  alone  nearer  the  fire  until  it  commences 
boiling,  skim  again,  draw  it  a  little  farther  to  the  comer  of  the  fire,  put  a 
wooden  skimmer  across  the  pot,  upon  which  rest  the  lid  to  prevent  its 
boiling  fast,  (which  would  entirely  spoil  the  soup,  the  meat  becoming  very 
hard  and  the  soup  thick  and  muddy).  ''You  quite  astonish  me,  Mrs. 
Binard,"  said  L  "Oh,"  says  she,  "  I  haye  had  so  many  years  of  experience, 
and  I  know  it  to  be  the  case."  "  Yes,"  said  I,  "  my  dear  lady,  I  do  not  in 
the  least  doubt  your  correctness."  "  Well,  then,  one  hour  afterwards  I  add 
a  little  cold  water  to  keep  it  to  the  same  quantity,  put  in  a  burnt  onion  to 
give  it  a  colour,  and  let  simmer  four  hours,  sometimes  five,  depending  if  the 
meat  is  cut  very  thick  ;  then  I  cut  some  large  thin  slices  of  bread,  which  I 
lay  at  the  bottom  of  the  tureen,  then  I  take  off  the  greater  part  of  the  fat, 
cut  the  bunch  of  celery  and  leeks  open,  lay  them  upon  the  slices  of  bread, 
with  one  of  the  carrots,  two  turnips,  and  the  pieces  of  parsnip ;  take  half  of 
the  broth  with  a  ladle,  which  pour  into  the  tureen,  (there  being  quite  enou  h 
soup  for  six  of  us,  myself,  Binard^  my  daughter  and  her  husband,  and  th« 


653  KITCHEN  AT  HOMK. 

two  boyi)  ;  then  I  take  out  carefully  the  meat,  which  I  lay  upon  the  die^ 
with  half  of  the  liver  at  the  side,  the  other  half,  when  oold,  I  give  to  Mineite 
(her  fiivorite  cat),  lay  the  remainder  of  the  Tegetablea  rounds  with  some  fine 
•prigs  of  fresh  paraley;  by  that  time  the  bread  is  (tremp6)  moistened  ;  actbodi 
upon  the  table  at  once,  keeping  the  meat  covered  until  we  have  done  with  the 
soup :  that  ia  the  way  we  dine  upon  a  Sunday.     The  next  day,  with  the 
remainder  of  the  broth  I  make  yeimicelli  or  rice  soup,  or  the  eame  with 
bread  in  it,  and  fricassee  the  remainder  of  the  beef  in  various  wai^.      When 
my  danghter  was  ill  I  used  to  put  a  calTs  foot  in  the  poP-au-feu  with  the  beef ; 
it  made  the  soup  very  strengthening  and  did  her  much  good.'*    *'  Will  you  be 
kind  enough,"  said  I,  ''to  tell  me  where  yon  get  these  burnt  onioius^    for  I 
perceive  without  it  your  soup  would  be  quite  wlute."     "  Bless  you»  sir  !"  ahe 
replied,  *'  you  may  get  six  for  two  sous  at  any  of  the  grocers,  or  you  can 
bum  them  yourself  in  the  oven,  or  by  the  fireside,  gently  turning  them  now 
and  then  until  they  are  quite  blade,  but  not  burnt  to  a  cinder,  or  it  would 
spoil  the  flavour  of  the  soup."     I  then  took  leave  of  her,  returning  th^nlm  for 
her  kindness,  and  put  down  the  receipt  aa  she  gave  it  me  during  her  Umg 
explanation,  as  foUows : 

RxcEiFT.  Put  in  the  pot-^nhfeu  six  pounds  of  beef,  four  quarts  of  water, 
set  near  the  fire ;  skim,  when  nearly  boiling  add  a  spoonful  and  a  half  of  aal^ 
half  a  pound  of  liver,  two  carrots,  four  turnips,  eight  young  or  two  old  leeks, 
one  head  of  celery,  two  onions  and  one  burnt,  with  a  clove  in  each,  and  a 
piece  of  parsnip ;  sldm  again  and  let  simmer  four  or  five  hours,  adding  a  little 
cold  water  now  and  then ;  take  off  part  of  the  fat,  put  slices  of  bread  into  the 
tureen,  lay  half  the  v^;etables  over,  and  half  the  broth,  and  serve  the  meat 
separate  with  the  vegetables  around.  Since  I  have  been  iu  England  I  have 
broken  my  precious  earthen  pot ;  I  have,  however,  made  some  very  good  soaps 
at  home  in  a  black  saucepan  or  stewpan,  but  must  admit  not  quite  so  delicate 
and  perfect  as  in  the  identical  pot  de  terre, 

SOUPS. — ^No.  35.  Julienne  8<nq^.    Put  about  six  pounds  of  knuckle  of 
veal  in  a  stewpan  cut  in  four  pieces,  with  about  half  a  pound  of  streaked 
bacon ;  put  a  piece  of  butter  at  the  bottom  of  the  stewpan,  and  about  half  a 
pint  of  water,  place  it  over  a  sharp  fire,  moving  it  round  occasionaJly  with  a 
wooden  spoon  until  the  bottom  of  the  stewpan  is  covered  with  a  white  g^aie, 
when  add  about  a  gallon  of  water,  two  ounces  of  salt,  three  onions  (with  two 
cloves  in  each),  two  turnips,  one  carrot,  a  head  of  celery,  leek,  and  a  bunch  of 
parsley,  thyme,  and  bayleaf ;  when  boiling  put  in  two  burnt  onions  (see  PoU 
mi-feu)  to  colour  it,  and  stand  it  at  the  comer  of  the  fire  to  simmer  for  two 
hours,  keeping  it  well  skimmed,  then  pass  the  broth  through  a  hair  sieve  into 
a  stewpatn;  you  have  previously  cut  two  middling-sized  carrots,  two  tuniips, 
an  onion,  a  leek,  and  a  little  celery  into  very  thm  strips  an  inch  long ;  put 
them  in  another  stewpan  with  two  ounces  of  butter  and  a  teaspoonfbl  of 
powdered  sugar ;  place  it  upon  a  sharp  fire,  tossing  them  over  occasionally 
until  well  fri^  and  looking  transparent,  then  put  them  into  the  broth  with  the 
half  a  young  cos  lettuce,  and  a  little  tarragon  and  chervil,  place  it  at  the 
comer  of  your  fire,  and  when  it  boils  skim  off  all  the  butter :  let  it  simmer 
until  the  vegetables  are  perfectly  tender,  when  pour  it  into  your  tureen ;  serve 
the  veal  and  piece  of  bacon  upon  the  dish  with  melted  butter  and  chopped 
parsley  over.     Beef  may  also  be  used  for  the  above^  and  the  vegetables  cat  in 
any  of  the  shapes  directed  for  the  soups  in  the  other  department  of  this  work ; 
if  you  only  require  a  smaller  quantity,  take  only  three  pounds,  or  rfn«ini«h 
all  in  proportion. 


KITCHEN  AT  HOME.  65S 

No.  36.  Mitti(m  Broth.  Any  description  of  trinunings  of  mutton  may  be 
used  for  broth,  but  the  scrag  end  of  the  neck  is  usually  chosen.  Put  about 
two  scrags  into  a  stewpan  (haying  preyiously  jointed  the  bone),  with  three 
onions  (a  couple  of  doves  stuck  in  each),  three  turnips,  one  carrot,  and  a 
bunch  containing  a  leek,  a  head  of  celery,  and  a  few  sprigs  of  thyme  and 
parsley,  fill  up  die  stewpan  with  rather  more  than  a  gallon  of  water ;  when 
Doiling  skim  it,  and  place  it  at  the  comer  of  the  stove,  where  let  it  simmer 
for  three  hours,  then  cut  a  small  carrot,  two  turnips,  an  onion,  and  a  piece  of 
leek  and  celery  into  very  small  square  pieces,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  a 
'wineglassful  of  pearl  barley,  pass  the  broth  through  a  hair  sieve  over  them, 
and  boil  at  the  comer  of  the  fire  until  the  barley  is  tender,  when  it  is  ready  to 
serve ;  the  meat  may  be  trimmed  into  neat  pieces,  and  served  in  the  broth,  or 
separately  with  melted  butter  and  parsley,  or  onion  sauce. 

No.  37 .  Irish  Mutton  Broth.  This  broth  is  made  similar  to  the  last,  adding 
fen  or  twelve  mealy  potatoes  cut  in  large  dice,  which  by  boiling  to  a  pur^e 
thickens  the  broth  ;  just  before  serving  throw  in  twenty  heads  of  parsley,  at 
the  same  time  put  in  a  few  flowers  of  marigolds,  which  really  give  a  pleaung 
flavour ;  it  is  then  ready  to  serve. 

At  home  I  make  clear  soup  of  the  trimmings  of  any  meat,  either  beef^  veal, 
mutton,  or  lamb,  or  the  trimmings  of  two  or  three  different  sorts  of  meat,  in 
the  same  manner  as  directed  for  Julienne  soup. 

No.  38.  J.  very  nrnple  Receipt  for  the  Scotch  Cock^a-Leeky.  This  is  a 
Tery  favorite  national  soup  with  the  Scotch,  which  by  rights  ought  to  have 
been  the  pride  of  Welsh  cookery,  ranking  as  hieh  in  the  estimation  of  millions 
as  their  celebrated  and  generally  appreciated  rarebit,  commonly  called  a 
Welsh  rabbit. 

Take  six  or  eight  pounds  of  leg  of  beef  (depending  upon  the  quantity  you 
vrant  to  make),  with  which  make  a  stock  as  directed  for  Julienne  soup,  letting 
simmer  two  hours,  and  keeping  it  well  skimmed ;  in  the  mean  time  trim  two 
or  three  bunches  of  fine  winter  leeks,  cuttine  off  the  roots  and  part  of  the 
head,  then  split  each  in  halves  lengthwise,  and  each  half  in  three,  wash  well 
in  two  or  three  waters,  pass  the  stock  through  a  sieve  into  another  stewpan, 
into  which  put  the  leeks,  with  a  fowl  trussed  as  for  boiling,  let  simmer  veiy 
gently  at  the  comer  of  the  fire  for  three  hours,  keeping  it  well  skimmed, 
season  a  little  if  required,  and  half  an  hour  before  serving  add  two  dozen 
French  plums,  without  breaking  them  ;  when  ready  to  serve,  take  out  the 
fowl,  which  cut  into  neat  pieces,  place  in  a  lai^e  tureen,  and  pour  the  leeks 
and  broth  over,  the  leeks  being  then  partly  in  puree ;  if  too  thick,  however, 
add  a  drop  more  broth  or  water.  Should  the  leeks  happen  to  be  old  and 
strong,  it  would  be  better  to  blanch  them  five  minutes  in  a  gallon  of  boiling 
water  previously  to  putting  them  with  the  stock.  Although  an  old  cock  is 
usually  procured  in  Scotland  for  the  above  purpose,  I  prefer  a  young  one, 
but  shoidd  an  old  one  be  most  handy,  stew  it  a  short  time  in  the  stock  before 
passing  it. 

No.  39.  Ox-tail  Soup.  Cut  up  two  ox-tails,  separating  them  at  the  joint, 
put  a  small  piece  of  butter  at  the  bottom  of  a  stewpan,  then  put  in  the  ox- 
tails, with  a  carrot,  turnip,  three  onions,  head  of  celery,  one  leek,  and  a 
bunch  of  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay-leaf,  add  half  a  pint  of  water  and  twelve 
grains  of  whole  pepper,  set  over  a  sharp  fire,  stirring  occasionally  until  the 


654  KITCHEN  AT  HOMB. 

bottom  of  the  stewpan  is  cohered  with  a  thickith  brown  glaze ;  then  add  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  flour,  stir  it  well  in,  and  fill  up  the  stewpan  with  three 
quarts  of  water,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  salt,  stir  occasionally  until  boiling, 
when  set  it  upon  the  comer  of  the  stove,  skim  well,  and  let  simmer  until  the 
tails  are  stewed  very  tender,  the  flesh  coming  easily  from  the  bone ;  take  them 
out  immediately  and  put  them  into  your  tureen ;  pass  the  soup,  which  must 
not  be  too  thick,  through  a  hair  sieve  over  them,  add  a  head  of  celery 
previously  cut  small  and  blanched  in  a  little  stock,  and  serve. 

Ox-tail  soup  may  also  be  made  clear  by  omitting  the  flour,  and  serving 
vegetables  in  it  as  directed  in  Julienne  soup  (No.  35),  but  cut  in  any  other 
shape. 

No.  40.  Ox-cheek  Soup.  Blanch  and  wash  well  two  oz-cheeks,  cut  off  the 
'beard,  take  away  all  the  bone,  which  chop  up,  and  cut  the  flesh  into  middling- 
sized  pieces,  leaving  the  cheek  part  whole,  put  altogether  into  a  stewpan, 
with  four  quarts  of  water,  a  little  salt,  ten  pepperooms,  two  carrots,  two 
turnips,  one  leek,  one  head  of  celery,  and  a  bunch  of  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay- 
leaf,  also  a  burnt  onion  to  colour  it ;  let  stew  at  the  corner  of  the  fire  six 
hours,  keeping  well  skimmed,  then  take  out  the  fleshy  part  of  the  cheek  and 
pass  the  broth  through  a  hair  siieve  into  another  stewpan,  mis  half  a  pound 
of  flour  with  a  pint  of  cold  broth,  which  pour  into  it  and  stir  over  the  fire 
until  boiling,  place  it  at  the  comer,  let  simmer  till  tender  (adding  two  heads 
of  celery  cut  very  fine,  and  a  glass  of  sherry)  ;  when  the  celery  is  tender,  cut 
the  meat  in  small  square  slices,  keep  them  warm,  and  when  the  soup  is  ready 
pour  over  and  serve.  Sheep's  or  lambs'  heads  also  make  very  good  soup  by 
following  the  above  receipt,  and  adding  two  pounds  of  veal,  mutton,  or  beef 
to  the  stock,  two  heads  would  be  sufficient,  and  they  would  not  require  so 
long  to  stew. 

No.  41.  New  Mock  Turtle  Soup.  Procure  half  a  calf*s  head  (scalded,  not 
skinned),  bone  it,  then  cut  up  a  knuckle  of  veal,  which  put  into  a  stewpan, 
with  half  a  pound  of  lean  ham,  two  ounces  of  butter,  one  of  salt,  at  the 
bottom,  a  carrot,  one  turnip,  three  onions,  a  head  of  celery,  a  leek,  and  a 
bunch  of  parsley,  thyme,  marjoram,  basil,  and  a  bay-leaf,  with  nearly  half  a 
pint  of  water ;  move  round  occasionally  upon  the  fire  until  the  bottom  of  the 
stewpan  is  covered  with  a  white  glaze  ;  then  add  six  quarts  of  water,  and  put 
in  the  half  head,  let  simmer  at  the  corner  of  the  fire  for  two  hours  and  a  half, 
or  tUl  the  head  is  perfectly  tender,  when  take  it  up  and  press  it  between  two 
dishes,  pass  the  stock  through  a  hair  sieve  into  a  basin ;  then  in  another 
stewpan  have  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  with  a  sprig  of  thyme,  basil, 
maijoram,  and  a  bay-leaf,  let  the  butter  get  quite  hot ;  then  add  six  ounces  of 
flour  to  form  a  roux,  stir  over  a  sharp  fire  a  few  minutes,  keeping  it  quite 
white,  stand  it  ofi*  the  fire  to  cool,  then  add  the  stock,  boil  up,  skim,  and  pasa 
it  through  a  hair  sieve  into  another  stewpan,  cut  the  head  into  pieces  an  inch 
square,  not  too  thick,  and  put  them  into  the  soup,  which  season  with  a  little 
cayenne  pepper ;  when  the  pieces  are  hot,  add  a  gill  of  cream,  and  pour  it  into 
your  tureen.  The  above  quantity  will  make  several  tureens  of  soup,  and  will 
keep  good  several  days. 

No.  42.  Broum  Mock  Turtle  Soup,  Proceed  the  same  as  in  the  last 
article,  only  colouring  the  stock  by  drawing  it  down  to  a  brown  glaze,  or 


KITCHEN  AT  HOMB.  666 

with  a  couple  of  burnt  onions,  and  serving  with  a  glass  of  port  wine  in  it,  or 
two  of  sherry,  omitting  the  cream. 

No.  43.  Mulligatawny  Soup.  Cut  up  a  knuckle  of  veal,  which  put  in  a 
stewpan  with  a  piece  of  butter,  half  a  pound  of  lean  ham,  a  carrot,  one 
turnip,  three  onions,  six  apples,  one  head  of  celery,  one  leek,  a  bunch  of 
parsley,  thyme,  and  bay-leaf,  a  blade  of  mace,  six  cloves,  and  half  a  pint  of 
water ;  set  the  stewpan  oyer  a  sharp  fire,  move  the  meat  round  occasionally, 
let  remain  until  the  bottom  of  the  stewpan  is  covered  with  a  brownish  glaze ; 
then  add  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  currie  powder,  one  of  currie  paste,  if 
handy,  and  half  a  pound  of  flour,  stir  well  in,  and  fill  up  with  a  gallon  of 
water,  add  a  spoonful  of  salt,  half  ditto  of  sugar,  and  a  quarter  ditto  of. 
pepper,  let.boil  up  ;  then  place  it  at  the  comer  of  the  stove,  where  let  it  simmer 
two  hours  and  a  half,  then  pass  it  through  a  hair  sieve  into  the  tureen  ;  trim 
some  of  the  pieces  of  veal,  which  serve  in  it,  and  some  plain  boiled  rice 
separate ;  ox-tai(s  or  pieces  of  rabbits,  chickens,  &c.,  left  from  a  previous 
dinner  may  be  served  in  it  instead  of  the  veal ;  if  too  thick  add  a  drop  of 
broth  or  water. 

No.  44.  Giblet  Soup.  Clean  two  sets  of  giblets  and  soak  for  two  hours, 
cut  them  into  equal  sizes  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  butter,  four  pounds  of  veal  or  beef,  half  a  pound  of  ham,  a  carrot, 
turnip,  three  onions,  a  head  of  celery,  leek,  two  ounces  of  sfdt,  and  a  bunch  of 
parsley,  thyme,  and  bay-leaf ;  place  the  stewpan  over  a  sharp  fire,  stirring  the 
meat  round  occasionally,  when  the  bottom  of  the  stewpan  is  covered  with  a 
light  glaze  add  half  a  pound  of  flour,  stir  well  in,  and  fill  up  with  a  gallon  of 
water,  add  two  burnt  onions  to  colour  it ;  when  boiling  set  at  the  corper  of 
the  stove,  let  simmer,  skim  well,  and  when  the  giblets  are  tender  take  them 
out,  put  them  in  your  tureen,  pass  the  soup  through  a  hair  sieve  over,  and 
serve ;  twenty  button  onions,  or  any  small  sharp  vegetable,  is  very  good  in  it, 
also  a  glass  of  port  wine. 

No.  45.  Green  Pea  Soup,  Put  two  quarts  of  green  peas  into  a  stewpan 
with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lean  ham  cut  in 
dice,  two  onions  in  slices,  and  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley ;  add  a  quart  of  cold 
Mater,  and  with  the  hand  rub  all  well  together,  then  pour  off  the  water,  cover 
the  stewpan  close  and  stand  it  upon  a  sharp  fire,  tossing  or  stirring  them 
round  occasionally ;  when  very  tender  add  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
flour,  mix  well  in,  mashing  the  peas  with  your  spoon  against  the  sides  of  the 
stewpan,  add  three  quarts  of  broth,  maae  as  for  Juhenne  soup  (No.  35), 
or  broth  from  the  pot-au-feu  (No.  34),  and  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  with  a 
little  pepper  and  salt  if  required,  boil  all  well  together  five  minutes ;  then  rub 
it  through  a  tammie  or  hair  sieve,  put  it  into  another  stewpan  with  ha]f 
a  pint  of  boiling  milk,  boil  and  skim,  then  pour  it  into  your  tureen,  and 
serve  vrith  smdl  croutons  of  fried  bread-crumbs.  It  must  not  be  served 
too  thick. 

No.  46.  Winter  Pea  Soup.  Wash  a  quart  of  spUt  peas,  which  put  into  a 
stewpan  with  half  a  pound  of  streaked  bacon,  two  onions  in  slices,  two  pounds 
of  veal  or  beef  cut  into  small  pieces,  and  a  little  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay-leaf, 
previously  passed  in  butter  in  the  same  stewpan ;  cover  with  a  gallon  of 
water,  add  a  little  salt  and  sugar,  place  it  upon  the  fire  ;  when  boiling  stand 


656  KITCHEN  AT  HOICB. 

it  at  the  side  until  the  peas  are  boiled  to  a  pnrfe,  and  the  water  haa  redneed 
to  half,  then  take  out  the  meat,  place  it  in  the  toreen^  keep  it  hot»  and  nib 
the  soup  through  a  hair  sieve  or  tammie,  put  it  into  another  stewpan,  and 
when  boiling  pour  orer  the  meat  and  serve.  The  bacon  is  good  oold^  the 
meat  may  also  be  put  into  the  tureen  if  approved  of. 

No.  47.  Purity  or  Vegetable  Soup,  Peel  and  cut  up  very  fine  three  onions, 
three  turnips,  one  carrot,  and  four  potatoes,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  the  same  of  lean  ham,  and  a  bunch  of  parsley, 
pass  them  ten  minutes  over  a  sharp  fire ;  then  add  a  good  spoonful  of 
flour,  mix  well  in,  moisten  with  two  qusrts  of  broth  (prepsred  as  for  Julienne 
soup.  No.  35),  and  a  pint  of  boiling  milk,  boil  up,  keeping  it  sturred, 
season  with  a  little  salt  and  sugar,  and  rub  through  a  hair  sieve  or  tammi^ 
put  it  into  another  stewpan,  boil  again,  sldm,  and  serve  with  croutons  of  fried 
bread  in  it. 

No.  48.  Soup  Maiffre.  Cut  two  onions  into  very  small  dice  and  put  them 
into  a  stewpan  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  fry  them  a  short  time,  but  not  to 
change  colour ;  have  three  or  four  handfuls  of  well-washed  sorrel,  cut  it  into 
ribands,  and  put  it  into  the  stewpan  with  the  onions,  add  two  tablespoonf ols 
of  flour,  mix  well,  then  a  pint  of  milk  and  a  pint  of  water,  boil  all  together 
ten  minutes,  season  with  a  httle  sugar  and  salt,  and  finish  with  a  liaison  of 
two  yolks  of  e§^,  mixed  with  agill  of  cream,  stir  it  in  quickly,  do  not  let  it 
boil  afterwards ;  put  the  crust  of  a  French  roll  cut  in  strips  into  your  tureen, 
pour  the  soup  over,  and  serve. 

No.  49.  Oman  Soup  Maigre,  Peel  and  cut  ten  large  onions  into  small 
dice,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  a  ouarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  place  them 
over  the  fire,  fry  them  well ;  then  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  which 
mix  well,  and  rather  better  than  a  quart  of  water,  boil  till  the  onions  are 
quite  tender,  season  with  a  little  salt  and  sugar,  finish  with  a  liaison,  and  serve 
as  in  the  last ;  grated  cheese  is  an  improvement  in  it. 

No.  50.  FemUeelH  Soup.  Make  your  stock  as  for  Julienne  soup  (No.  35), 
when  passed  put  it  into  another  stewpan  with  two  ounces  of  vermicelli,  boil 
it  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  then  pour  it  into  your  tureen,  and  serve. 

Semolina  or  tapioca  soup  is  made  the  same,  using  either  instead  of  vermi- 
celli.    For  rice  soup,  see  No.  197,  Kitchen  of  the  Wealthy. 

No.  51.  Macaroni  Soup.  (See  No.  198,  and  Italian  Paste,  No.  194, 
Kitchen  of  the  Wealthy.) 

FISH. — ^No.  52.  TurboL  For  the  methods  of  cleaning  fish,  see  the  other 
department  of  this  work.  In  My  Kitchen  at  Home  I  should  never  think  of  cook- 
ing too  large  a  turbot,  but  choose  a  middle-sized  one  which,  generslly  speak- 
ing, is  the  best ;  cut  an  incision  in  the  back,  rub  it  weU  with  a  good  handhil 
of  salt,  then  with  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  set  it  in  a  turbot  kettle  well  covered 
with  cold  water,  in  which  you  have  put  a  good  handM  of  salt,  place  over 
the  fire,  and  as  soon  as  the  water  boiu  put  it  at  the  side ;  if  a  tuibot  of  ten 
pounds  it  wiU  take  an  hour  after  it  has  boiled,  if  it  should  be  allowed  to 
more  than  simmer  it  will  be  very  unsightly ;  take  out  of  the  water,  leave  a 
minute  upon  your  drainer,  serve  upon  a  napkin  garnished  with  fresh  parsley, 
and  lobster  sauce  in  a  boat ;  for  sauce  (see  No.  68),  or  shrimp  sauce  (No.  73). 


KITCHEN  AT  HOME.  657 

No.  53.  Turhot^  the  new  French  Fashion,  BoU  your  turbot  as  in  the  laat 
bat  dress  it  upon  a  dish  without  a  napkin,  sauce  o?er  with  a  thickish  melted 
butter  (baying  placed  a  border  of  well-boiled  small  potatoes  round),  sprinkle 
a  few  capers  over  and  serve. 

No.  54.  Turhot  h  la  Crime  is  done  with  the  remains  of  a  turbot  from  a 
previous  dinner ;  detach  the  flesh  from  the  bone,  and  warm  in  salt  and  water> 
make  cream  sauce  as  page  99,  only  omit  a  third  of  the  butter. 

Brills  are  cooked  in  the  same  manner  as  turbots,  but  being  smaller  do  not 
require  so  long  boiling ;  but  in  boiling  any  description  of  fish,  never  take  it 
up  until  it  leaves  the  bone  with  facility,  which  try  by  placing  the  point  of  a 
knife  between  the  flesh  and  the  bone,  if  done  the  flesh  will  detach  imme- 
diately. 

No.  55.  John  Dor^e,  Boulogne  fashion.  John  Dories,  though  not  very 
handsome,  are  very  delicate  eating ;  choose  them  from  four  to  six  pounds  in 
weight,  and  boil  as  directed  for  turbot ;  one  of  the  above  size  would  require 
about  three  quarters  of  an  hour ;  if  any  remain,  dress  like  turbot,  or  with 
caper  sauce,  &c. 

No.  56.  Salmon^  plain  boiled.  I  prefer  always  dressing  this  fish  in  slices 
from  an  inch  or  two  inches  in  thickness,  boiling  it  in  plenty  of  salt  and  water 
about  half  an  hour ;  the  whole  fish  may  be  boiled,  or  the  head  and  shoulders 
of  a  large  fish,  but  they  require  longer  boiling.  Salmon  eats  firmer,  by  not 
being  put  into  the  water  until  boihng ;  dress  the  fish  upon  a  napkin  and 
serve  with  lobster  sauce  (page  30),  shrimp  do.,  or  plain  melted  butter  in  a 
boat,  with  fresh  sprigs  of  parsley  boiled  a  few  minutes  in  it.  A  salmon 
weighing  ten  pounds  will  require  an  hour  and  a  half  boiling ;  a  head  and 
shoulders  weighing  six  pounds,  one  hour.  The  remains  may  be  dressed  k  la 
cr^me,  as  directed  for  the  turbot  (No.  54). 

No.  57.  Salmon  Sauce  Matelote,  Cook  three  good  slices  of  salmon  as 
directed  in  the  last,  or  a  large  salmon  peal  trussed  in  the  form  of  the  letter 
S ;  dress  it  upon  a  dish  without  a  napkin,  having  previously  drained  off  all 
the  water ;  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  peel  fifty  small  button  onions, 
then  put  a  good  teaspoonful  of  powdered  sugar  into  a  convenient-sized  stew- 
pan,  place  it  upon  a  sharp  fire,  and  just  as  the  sugar  melts  and  turns  yel- 
lowish add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  and  the  onions,  place  it  again  upon 
the  fire,  tossing  them  over  occasionally  until  they  become  slightly  browned, 
then  add  a  good  tablespoonful  of  fiour  (mix  well,  but  gently),  a  glass  of  sherry, 
and  a  pint  of  broth  (reserved  from  some  soup),  let  boil  at  the  corner  of  the 
stove,  skim  well,  and  when  the  onions  are  done  and  the  sauce  rather  thick, 
add  a  little  pepper,  salt,  a  teaspoonful  of  catsup,  one  of  Harvey  sauce,  and 
one  of  essence  of  anchovies ;  when  ready  to  serve  add  two  dozen  of  oysters, 
blanched  and  bearded,  allow  them  to  get  quite  hot,  sauce  over  and  serve.  I 
sometimes  at  home  make  a  few  fish  quenelles  (No.  124,  Kitchen  of  the 
Wealthy)  and  add  to  the  sauce. 

The  remainder  of  the  above  is  very  good  if  put  in  the  oven  upon  a  dish 
with  a  cover  over  and  a  little  additional  sauce. 

No.  58.  Cod  Ftshy  plain  boiled.     (See  page  119.) 

No.  59.  Cod  Fish  sauced  over  with  Oyster  Sauce.     Boil  three  slices  of  the 

42 


658  KITCHEN  AT  HOMK. 

fish  as  above,  dndn  and  dress  them  upon  a  dish  witboat  a  nqpkiii,  blandi 
three  dozen  oysters  by  putting  them  into  a  stewpan  with  their  juice  upon  the 
fire,  move  them  round  occasionally,  do  not  let  them  boil ;  as  soon  as  they  be- 
come a  little  firm  place  a  sieve  over  a  basin,  pour  in  the  oysters,  beard  and 
throw  them  again  mto  their  liquor,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  ;  when  boiling 
add  four  cloves,  half  a  blade  of  mace,  six  peppercorns,  and  two  ounces  of 
butter,  to  which  you  have  added  half  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  breaking  it 
into  small  pieces,  stir  well  together,  when  boilinff,  season  with  a  little  aftlt, 
cayenne  pepper,  and  essence  of  anchovies,  finish  with  a  gill  of  cream,  or 
mUk,  and  sauce  over.  The  remains  of  this  fish  may  be  taken  from  the  bone 
and  placed  upon  a  dish,  with  a  little  of  the  above  sauce  (to  which  you  have 
added  the  yoUcsof  twoeggs)  over,  sprinkle  over  with  bread-crumbs,  and  place 
it  twenty  minutes  in  a  hot  oven  till  the  bread-crumbs  become  brown. 
For  Salt  Fish,  see  page  122,  in  the  other  department  of  this  work. 

No.  60.  Haddocks.     (See  (Nos.  308,  309,  310,  Kitchen  of  the  Wealthy.) 
No.  61.  BaAed Haddocks.     (Seepage  129.) 
No.  62.  Soles,  Fried.     (See  page  114.) 

No.  63.  Soles,  the  Jewish  Fashion.  Trim  the  fish  well,  dip  it  into  a 
couple  of  eggs,  well  beaten,  but  six  tablespoonfuls  of  salad«^il  in  a  saute-pao, 
place  it  over  the  fire,  and  when  quite  hot  put  in  your  sole ;  let  remain  five 
minutes,  turn  over,  and  fry  upon  the  other  side ;  ten  or  twelve  minutes  will 
cook  it  according  to  the  size ;  serve  upon  a  napkin  without  sauce.  They  are 
excellent  cold. 

No.  64.  Sole  b,  laMeunihre.  (See  page  115,  in  the  other  department  of 
this  work.) 

No.  65.  Sole  aux  Fines  Herhes.  Put  a  spoonful  of  chopped  eschalots 
into  a  saute-pan,  with  a  glass  of  sherry  and  an  ounce  of  butter,  place  the 
sole  over,  pour  nearly  half  a  pint  of  melted  butter  over  it,  upon  which 
sprinkle  some  chopped  parsley,  place  it  in  a  moderate  oven  for  half  an  hour, 
take  the  sole  out  of  the  pan,  dress  upon  a  dish  without  a  napkin,  reduce  the 
sauce  that  is  in  the  pan  over  a  sharp  fire,  add  a  little  Harvey  sauce  and 
essence  of  anchovy,  pour  over  the  sole,  and  serve  them  with  a  litde  flour  and 
butter. 

No.  Q%.  Fried  Whiting.  The  whiting  requires  to  be  skinned,  and  the 
tail  turned  round  and  fixed  into  the  mouth,  dip  it  first  into  flour,  then  egg 
over,  and  dip  it  into  bread-crumbs,  fry  as  directed  for  the  sole ;  for  whiting 
aux  fines  herhes  proceed  as  directed  for  sole  aux  fines  herhes.  At  home 
I  prefer  the  whiting  fried  with  their  skins  on,  merely  dipping  them  in 
flour. 

No.  67.  Whiting  au  Gratin.  Put  a  good  spoonful  of  chopped  onions 
upon  a  strong  earthen  dish,  with  a  glass  of  vrine,  season  the  whitings  with  a 
little  pepper  and  salt,  put  it  in  the  dish,  sprinkle  some  chopped  parsley  and 
chopped  mushrooms  over,  and  pour  over  half  a  pint  of  anchovy  sauce 
(page  32),  over  which  sprinkle  some  brown  bread-crumbs,  grated  from  the 
crust  of  bread,  place  it  in  a  warm  oven  half  an  hour ;  it  requires  to  be  nicely 
browned ;  serve  upon  the  dish  you  have  cooked  it  in. 


KITCHEN  AT  HOME.  659 

Ifo.  68.  Bed  Mullets,  Procure  two  red  mulletB^  which  place  upon  a 
strong  dish  not  too  large^  Bprinlcle  Bome  chopped  onions,  parsley,  a  little 
pepper  and  salt,  and  a  little  salad-oil  over,  and  put  them  into  a  warm  oven 
for  half  an  hour,  then  put  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  onions  into  a  stewpan, 
with  a  teaspoonful  of  salad-oil,  stir  over  a  moderate  fire  until  getting  rather 
yellowish,  then  add  a  tablespoonful  of  sherry,  half  a  pint  of  melted  butter, 
"with  a  little  chopped  mushrooms  and  parsley  ;  reduce  quickly  over  a  sharp 
fire,  keeping  it  stirred  until  becoming  rather  thick  ;  when  the  mullets  are 
done  sauce  over  and  serve. 

No.  69.  Mackerel  are  generally  served  plain  boiled  ;  put  them  in  a  kettle 
containing  boiling  water,  well  salted,  let  simmer  nearly  half  an  hour,  take 
them  up,  drain,  and  dish  them  upon  a  napkin,  serve  melted  butter  in  a  boi\(, 
with  which  you  have  mixed  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  fennel,  boiling  it  a 
few  minutes. 

No.  70.  Mackerel  a  la  Maltre  cTHSteL  (See  p.  127)  ;  as  also  for  Mackerel 
aa  beurre  noir. 

No.  71.  Gurnets  are  best  stufifed  and  baked ;  stuff  them  as  directed  for 
haddocks,  turn  them  round  in  the  same  manner,  lay  slices  of  butter  over,  cut 
very  thin,  and  bake  half  an  hour  or  more  (according  to  their  size)  in  a  warm 
oven,  when  done  dress  upon  a  dish  without  a  napkin,  and  have  ready  the  fol- 
lowing sauce  :  put  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  onions  in  a  stewpau,  with  one  of 
vinegar,  place  over  the  fire  a  couple  of  minutes,  add  half  a  pint  of  melted  butter, 
a  tablespoonful  of  Harvey  sauce,  one  of  catsup,  and  two  of  water,  reduce  imtil 
rather  thick,  season  with  a  little  pepper,  cut  the  fillets  of  a  good  anchovy  into 
strips,  put  in  the  s^uce,  which  pour  round  the  fish  and  serve. 

No.  72.  Boiled  Gurnet,  You  may  boil  it  either  with  or  without  the  stuffing 
in  very  salt  water,  it  wiU  require  rather  more  than  half  an  hour ;  serve  with 
anchovy  sauce  separate. 

No.  73.  Herrings  boiled  with  Cream  Sauce.  Boil  six  herrings  about  twenty 
minutes  in  plenty  of  salt  and  water,  but  only  just  to  simmer ;  then  have  ready 
the  following  sauce :  put  half  a  gill  of  cream  upon  the  fire  in  a  stewpan,  when 
it  boilB  add  eight  spoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  an  ounce  of  Aresh  butter,  a  little 
pepper,  salt,  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon ;  dress  the  fish  upon  a  dish  without 
a  napkin,  sauce  over  and  serve. 

For  Broiled  Herrings  k  la  Digon,  see  page  132. 

No.  74.  Skate  is  usually  crimped,  cut  into  long  slices,  and  curled  round ; 
procure  two  or  three  slices,  tie  them  with  strine  to  keep  the  shape  in  boiling, 
put  them  into  a  kettle  of  boiling  water,  in  which  you  have  put  a  good  handful 
of  salt ;  boil  gently  about  twenty  minutes  (have  ready  also  a  piece  of  the 
fiver,  which  boil  with  it),  when  done  drain  well,  and  put  it  upon  a  dish  with- 
out a  napkin ;  put  three  parts  of  a  pint  of  melted  butter  in  a  stewpan,  place 
it  upon  the  fire,  and  when  quite  hot  add  a  wineglassful  of  capers,  sauce  over 
and  serve. 

For  Skate  au  beurre  noir,  see  page  1 33. 

Skate  may  also  be  served  upon  a  napkin  with  a  boat  of  well-seasoned  melted 
butter,  to  which  you  have  added  a  spoonful  of  Harvey  sauce. 


660  KITCHEN  AT  HOME. 

No.  75.  Fiomnder9,  Water  Souchet,  Procure  four  or  six  Thames  flonnden^ 
cat  each  in  halres,  put  half  a  pint  of  water  in  a  sant^-pan,  with  a  little  scraped 
horeradish,  a  little  pepper,  salt,  sugar,  and  forty  sprigs  of  fresh  parsley ;  place 
over  the  fire,  boil  a  minute,  then  add  the  flounders,  stew  ten  minutes,  take 
them  out  and  place  in  a  dish  without  a  napkin,  reduce  the  liquor  they  were 
stewed  in  a  little,  pour  oyer  and  serve. 

To  fry  flounders,  trim  them,  and  proceed  precisely  as  directed  for  fried 
soles  (p.  114). 

Smelts  are  likewise  floured,  egged,  bread-crumbed,  and  fried  as  above. 

Plaice  are  plain  boiled  in  salt  and  water,  and  served  with  shrimp  sauce  in  a 
boat. 

FRESH  WATER  FISH.— No.  76.  Pike.  Clean  as  directed  (page  93),  atufi 
the  interior  as  directed  for  haddocks  (page  129),  only  adding  some  fillets  of 
anchovies  and  chopped  lemon-peel  with  it;  curl  round  and  put  in  a  baking 
dish,  spread  a  little  butter  all  over,  put  in  a  moderate  oven ;  when  about  half 
done  egg  over  with  a  paste  brush,  and  sprinkle  bread-crumbs  upon  it;  a 
middling-sized  pike  will  take  about  an  hour,  but  that  according  to  the  site 
and  the  heat  of  the  oven  ;  when  done  dress  upon  a  dish  without  a  napkin, 
and  sauce  round  as  directed  for  baked  haddock  above  referred  to. 

No.  77.  Pike^  Sauce  Matelote,  Cook  a  pike  exactly  as  in  the  last,  dress  it 
upon  a  dish  without  a  napkin,  and  sauce  with  a  matelote  sauce  over,  made  aa 
directed  for  salmon  sauce  matelote  (No.  57)- 

This  fish  may  also  be  served  with  caper  sauce  as  directed  for  the  skate 
(No.  74) — the  smaller  ones  are  the  best ;  the  remains  of  a  pike  placed  in  the 
oven  the  next  day,  with  a  cover  over  it  and  a  little  more  sauce  added,  is 
very  nice. 

No.  78.  Stewed  Carp.  Procure  a  good-sized  carp,  stuff  it,  then  put  it  into 
a  baking-diBh  with  two  onions,  one  carrot,  one  turnip,  one  head  of  celery,  and 
a  good  bunch  of  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay-leaf ;  moisten  with  two  glasses  of 
port  wine,  and  put  it  in  a  moderate  oven  about  two  hours  to  bake ;  try  if  done 
with  a  knife,  which  is  the  case  if  the  flesh  leaves  the  bone  easily,  dress  upon  a 
dish  without  a  napkin,  then  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  mince  a  large 
Spanish  onion  with  two  common  ones,  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  three 
spoonfuls  of  salad-oil,  fry  rather  a  yellow  colour,  add  two  glasses  of  port  wine 
and  two  spoonfuls  of  flour,  mix  aU  well  together,  add  a  pint  of  broth  (reserved 
from  some  soup)  cr  water,  with  half  an  ounce  of  glaze,  boil  it  up,  drain  the 
stock  the  carp  was  cooked  in  from  the  vegetables,  which  also  add  to  the  sauce ; 
boU  well  at  the  corner  of  the  stove,  skim,  and  when  rather  thick  add  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  Harvey  sauce,  one  of  essence  of  anchovies,  twelve  pickled  mush- 
rooms, and  a  little  cayenne  pepper,  pour  all  the  liquor  drained  from  the  fish 
out  of  your  dish,  sauce  over  and  serve. 

No.  79.  Carp,  Sauce  Matelote,  Put  your  carp  into  a  small  oval  fish- 
kettle,  with  wine  and  vegetables  as  in  the  last,  to  which  add  also  a  pint  of 
water  and  a  little  salt,  with  a  few  cloves  and  peppercorns ;  put  the  Hd  upon 
the  fish-kettle  and  stand  it  over  a  moderate  fire  to  stew  an  hour  and  a  half, 
according  to  the  size ;  when  done  drain  well,  dress  upon  a  dish  without  a 
napkin,  and  sauce  over  with  a  matelote  sauce    made  as  directed  for  salmon 


KITCHEN  AT  HOH£.  '  661 

eauce  matelote  (No.  57),  or  caper  sauce,  as  for  skate  (No.  74) ;  small  caip  are 
very  good-flavored,  bread-crumbed  and  fried. 

No.  80.  Truite  h  la  Tmckenham,  When  you  have  cleaned  your  trout  as 
described  at  page  23,  put  them  into  a  kettle  of  boiling  water,  to  which  you  have 
added  a  gooo  handful  of  salt,  and  a  wiueglassf  ul  of  vinegar ;  boil  gently  about 
twenty  minutes,  or  according  to  their  size,  dress  upon  a  napkin,  and  serve 
melted  butter,  into  which  you  have  put  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  gherkins 
in  a  boat. 

The  remains  of  trout,  salmon,  or  mackerel  are  excellent  pickled ;  put  three 
onions  in  slices  in  a  stewpan,  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  one  turnip,  parsley, 
thyme,  and  bay-leaf«  pass  them  five  minutes  over  the  fire,  add  a  pint  of  water  and 
a  pint  of  vinegar ;  boil  until  the  onions  are  tender,  then  strain  it  through  a  sieve 
over  the  fish  ;  it  will  keep  some  time  if  required,  and  then  do  to  pidde  more 
fish  by  boiling  over  again. 

No.  81 .  Truite  h  la  Burton.  Boil  the  trout  as  in  the  last,  then  put  half  a  pint 
of  melted  butter  in  a  stewpan,  with  two  tablespooufuls  of  cream  and  two  of 
milk,  place  it  upon  the  fire,  and  when  upon  the  point  of  boiling  add  a  liaison 
of  one  yolk  of  egg  mixed  with  a  tablespoonful  of  cream  (dress  the  fish  upon  a 
dish  without  a  napkin),  put  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  a  pinch  of  salt,  and 
the  juice  of  a  lemon  into  the  sauce ;  shake  round  over  the  fire,  but  do  not  let 
it  boil ;  sauce  over  the  fish  and  serve. 

No.  82.  Tench,  Sauce  Matelote,  Put  three  onions,  a  carrot,  and  turnip, 
eut  in  slices,  into  a  stewpan,  or  very  small  fish-kettle,  with  a  good  handful  of 
parsley,  a  few  sprigs  of  thyme,  three  bay-leaves,  six  cloves,  a  blade  of  mace,  a 
little  salt,  and  two  glasses  of  sherry  ;  lay  your  tench  over  (it  will  require  four 
for  a  dish,  and  they  may  be  either  cooked  whole  or  each  one  cut  into  two 
or  three  pieces),  add  a  pint  of  water,  cover  down  close,  and  stew  gently 
over  a  slow  fire  for  about  half  an  hour,  take  them  out,  drain  upon  a  cloth, 
dress  in  pyramid  upon  a  dish  without  a  napkin,  and  pour  a  sauce  over 
made  as  directed  for  salmon  sauce  matelote  (No.  57),  or  as  for  stewed  carp 
(No.  78). 

No.  83.  Tench  with  Anchovy  Butter.  Cook  the  tench  as  in  the  last,  but 
they  may  be  plain  boiled  in  salt  and  water ;  dress  upon  a  dish  without  a  napkin, 
then  put  six  spoonfuls  of  melted  butter  in  a  stewpan,  with  one  of  milk ;  place 
it  upon  the  fire,  and  when  upon  the  point  of  boiling  add  an  ounce  of  anchovy 
butter  (page  33),  shake  it  round  over  the  fire  until  the  butter  is  melted,  when 
sauce  over  and  serve. 

No.  84.  Perch  fried  in  Butter.  Glean  the  fish  as  explained  (p.  94),  dry 
well,  make  an  incision  upon  each  side  with  a  knife,  put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
butter  in  a  saute-pan  over  a  slow  fire,  lay  in  the  fish,  fty  gently,  turning  them 
over  when  half  done ;  when  done  dress  upon  a  napkin,  and  serve  melted  butter 
in  a  boat. 

No.  85 .  Perch,  Hampton  Court  Fashion,  Cook  the  fish  as  above,  and  have 
ready  the  following  sauce  :  put  six  spoonfuls  of  melted  butter  in  a  stewpan, 
with  a  little  salt  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon ;  when  upon  the  point  of  boiling 
stir  in  the  yolk  of  an  egg  mixed  with  a  tablespoonful  of  cream ;  do  not  let  it 


662  KITCHEN  AT  HOME. 

boil ;  blanch  about  twenty  small  sprigs  of  parsley  in  boiling  water  ten  miniitei^ 
drain  and  put  them  in  the  sauce,  which  pour  over  the  fish  and  serve. 

Perch  may  also  be  served  plain  boiled  or  stewed  as  directed  for  tench,  with 
sauce  served  separate.  , 

No.  86.  Eeh  Fried.  Cut  your  eels  into  pieces  three  inches  long,  dip  the 
pieces  into  flour,  egg  over  with  a  paste  brush,  and  throw  them  into  some  bread- 
crumhs  ;  fry  in  hot  lard  as  directed  for  fried  soles  (p.  114). 

No.  87.  Stewed  Eels,  Sauce  Matelote.  Procure  as  large  eels  as  possible, 
which  cut  into  pieces  three  inches  long,  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  an 
onion,  two  bay-leaves,  a  sprig  of  thyme  and  parsley,  six  cloves,  a  blade  of 
mace,  a  glass  of  sherry,  and  two  of  water ;  place  the  stewpan  over  a  mo- 
derate fire,  and  let  simmer  about  twenty  minutes,  or  according  to  the  size 
of  the  eels  ;  when  done  drain  upon  a  doth,  dress  them  in  pyramid  upon  a 
dish  without  a  napkin,  with  a  matelote  sauce  over,  made  as  directed  for 
salmon  sauce  matelote  (No.  67),  but  using  the  stock  your  eels  have  been 
cooked  in  to  make  the  sauce,  having  previously  well  boiled  it  to  extract  all 
the  fat. 

No.  88.  CrudgeoM  are  floured,  egged,  bread-crumbed,  or  simply  floured 
and  fried  as  directed  for  smelts  ;  but  being  smaller,  they  require  less  time  to 
cook. 

No.  89 .  Escalaped  Oysters.  Put  two  dozen  of  oysters  with  their  liquor  into 
a  stewpan,  place  over  a  fire,  and  when  a  little  firm  drain  them  upon  a  sieve, 
catching  the  liquor  in  another  stevrpan ;  detach  the  beard  from  the  oysters,  and 
throw  them  again  into  their  liquor ;  add  half  a  blade  of  mace,  place  again 
upon  the  fire,  and  when  boiling  add  a  piece  of  butter,  the  size  of  a  walnut, 
with  which  you  have  mixed  a  teaspoonful  of  flour ;  shake  round  over  the  fire 
until  becoming  very  thick,  season  with  a  little  cayenne,  and  salt  if  required, 
have  an  escalop-shell,  well  buttered  and  bread-crumbed,  place  the  oysters  in, 
sprinkle  bread-crumbs  over,  put  it  in  the  oven  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  pass  the 
salamander  over,  and  serve. 

No.  90.  Stewed  Oysters.  Blanch  and  beard  the  oysters  as  above,  when 
done,  put  them  with  their  liquor  in  a  stevrpan,  with  four  cloves,  a  blade  of  mace, 
and  a  teaspoonful  of  essence  of  anchovies,  with  a  little  chopped  parsley  and 
cayenne ;  let  simmer  a  minute,  stir  in  two  pats  of  butter,  with  which  you  have 
mixed  half  a  teaspoonful  of  flour,  let  simmer  a  little  longer,  lay  the  oysters  in 
your  dish  upon  a  piece  of  toast,  and  sauce  over. 

No.  91.  Gratin  of  Lobsters.  Procure  a  good-sized  lobster,  cut  it  in 
halves,  detaching  the  head  from  the  body,  take  out  all  the  meat,  and  save 
the  four  shells ;  cut  the  meat  into  dice,  then  take  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped 
eschalots  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  two  walnuts,  pass  them 
a  few  minutes  over  a  fire,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  (mix  well  in),  half  a 
pint  of  milk,  stir  over  the  fire,  boiling  about  five  minutes,  then  add  the 
lobster,  which  season  with  a  little  cayenne,  salt,  chopped  parsley,  and  essence 
of  anchovies ;  stand  it  again  upon  the  fire,  stirring  until  boiling,  then  stir  in 
the  yolk  of  an  egg ;  take  oS  the  fire,  fill  the  shells  of  the  lobster,  sprinkle 


KITCHEN    AT   HOME.  668 

bread-crambs  over,  pnt  them  into  the  oven  about  ten  minutes,  the  top  requiring 
to  be  browned ;  serve  upon  a  napkin  garnished  with  parsley. 

SIMPLE   HOES-d'(EUVR£S. 

No.  92.  Rissoles  of  Oysters,  Prepare  two  dozen  of  blanched  oysters  as 
directed  for  escaloped  oysters,  but  cutting  each  oyster  into  six  pieces,  turn 
it  out  upon  a  dish,  where  leave  it  until  quite  cold ;  then  have  the  trimmings 
of  some  puff  paste,*  which  roll  very  thin ;  put  some  of  the  oysters  upon  it 
in  pieces  the  size  of  a  walnut,  fold  them  over  with  the  paste,  which  cut  out 
with  a  round  cutter,  giving  each  the  shape  of  a  turnover,  egg  with  a  paste 
brush,  and  throw  them  into  bread-crumbs,  cover  well,  have  ready  a  stew- 
pan  in  which  there  is  some  very  hot  lard  or  white  dripping  (as  ror  ftying 
fish),  in  which  fry  your  rissoles  of  a  light  brown  colour;  dress  upon  a 
napkin  in  a  plate,  garnish  with  fried  parsley,  and  serve  to  be  handed  round 
the  table. 

No.  93.  Rissoles  of  Lamb.  Gut  up  about  a  pound  of  cooked  lamb  (the 
remains  of  a  prenous  day)  into  very  small  dice,  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
lean  cooked  ham,  then  put  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  eschalots  in  a  stewpan, 
with  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a  nut,  pass  them  over  the  fire  a  couple  of 
minutes,  then  stir  in  a  teaspoonfill  of  flour,  after  which  add  nearly  half  a  pint 
of  melted  butter  and  the  meat ;  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  it  boils,  season  well 
with  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  and  stir  in  the  yolks  of  a  couple  of  eggs,  put  it 
out  upon  a  dish  till  cold,  and  proceed  as  directed  in  the  last  article. 

The  flesh  of  any  poultry  or  game  may  be  used  exactly  the  same. 

No.  94.  Rocambole^  or  Croquettes  of  Meat,  Game,  or  Poultry,  Make  a 
preparation  as  above  with  some  description  of  cold  cooked  meat,  or  poultry ; 
when  cold  divide  it  into  pieces,  each  rather  larger  than  a  walnut,  roll  them 
to  about  two  inches  and  a  half  in  length,  have  three  eggs  in  a  basin  well 
whisked,  into  which  dip  them,  throw  them  into  bread-crumbs,  take  them  out, 
well  covered,  and  smooth  them  by  gently  patting  them  with  a  knife,  then  dip 
them  into  clarifled  butter,  and  again  into  bread-crumbs,  smooth  them  again, 
and  fry  them  of  a  light  colour  in  a  stewpan  of  hot  lard^  and  serve  precisely 
the  same  as  for  rissoles. 

No.  95.  LamVs  Fry,  See  the  other  department  of  this  work,  page  312 ; 
nothing  can  be  more  simplified.  . 

REMOVES   SIMPLIFIED. 

No.  96.  Stewed  Rump  of  Beef,  Choose  a  small  rump  of  beef,  cut  it 
away  from  the  bone,  cut  about  twenty  long  pieces  of  fat  bacon,  which 
run  through  the  flesh  in  a  slanting  direction,  then  chop  up  the  bone, 
place  it  at  the  bottom  of  a  large  stewpan,  with  six  cloves,  three  onions^ 
one  carrot,  a  turnip,  head  of  celery,  a  leek,  and  a  bunch  of  parsley,  thyme, 
and  bay-leaf,  then  lay  in  the  rump  (previously  tying  it  up  with  string), 
which  just  cover  with  water,  add  a  good  handful  of  salt  and  two  burnt 
onions,  place  upon  the  fire,  and  when  boiling  stand  it  at  the  comer,  let 
simmer  nearly  four  hours,  keeping  it  skimmed ;  when  done  pass  part  of  the 

*  The  receipts  for  paste  beiag  so  simple  in  the  other  department  of  this  book,  I  shall, 
upon  all  occasions,  refer  my  readers  to  them,  (p.  478.) 


664  KITCHEN  AT  HOME. 

■tock  it  was  cooked  in  (keeping  the  beef  hot  in  the  remainder)  tfaioii^  m 
hair  sieve  into  a  basin ;  in  another  stewpan  have  ready  a  quarter  of  a  poond 
of  butter,  melt  it  over  the  fire,  add  six  ounces  of  flour,  mix  well  together, 
stirrine  over  the  fire  until  becoming  a  little  brownish,  take  off,  and  when 
cold  add  two  quarts  of  the  stock,  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  it  boils,  then  hare 
four  carrots,  four  turnips  (cut  into  small  pieces  with  cutters),  and  forty 
button  onions  peeled,  put  them  into  the  sauce,  when  again  boiling  draw  it  to 
the  comer,  where  let  smimer  until  tender,  keeping  it  skimmed,  add  a  little 
powdered  sugar  and  a  bunch  of  parsley ;  if  it  should  become  too  thick  add  a 
little  more  of  the  stock,  dress  the  beef  upon  a  dish,  sauce  round  and  serve. 

No.  97'  Stewed  Rump  of  Beef  with  OnUme,  See  page  172,  in  the  otbcar 
department. 

'fhe  remains  of  stewed  beef,  cut  in  slices  and  wanned  in  some  of  the  stodc, 
is  good  the  next  day  served  with  a  little  sharp  sauce  (page  15).  The  remain- 
ing stock  is  good  for  any  kind  of  soup  or  stock  the  next  day. 

No.  98.  Stewed  Rump  Steak  with  Oyster  Sauce,  Cut  from  a  small  stale 
rump  of  beef  two  steaks,  about  three  quarters  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  season 
well  with  pepper  and  salt ;  well  butter  a  deep  saute-pan,  lay  in  your  steaksi, 
with  four  cloves,  a  blade  of  mace,  and  a  bunch  of  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay- 
leaf,  cover  with  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  water,  set  over  a  slow  &re,  when  they 
have  simmered  half  an  hour  turn  them  over,  and  let  remain  until  quite  tender ; 
take  up,  place  upon  your  dish,  and  keep  them  hot,  place  the  saute-pan  at  the 
comer  of  the  fire,  boil,  skim  well,  add  an  ounce  of  butter,  with  which  yea 
have  mixed  half  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  stir  well,  and  when  it  thickens  add 
two  dozen  oysters  previously  blanched  and  bearded,  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
essence  of  anchovies,  and  a  little  cayenne  pepper,  sauce  over  the  steaks  and 
serve.     The  steak  with  common  stewed  oysters  would  be  very  good. 

No.  99.  Ribs  of  Beef  ^  FHSteli^e.  Procure  four  ribs  of  beef,  but  not 
too  fat  or  too  thick,  take  off  the  chine-bone  neatly,  and  the  tips  of  the  rih- 
bones,  skewer  the  flap  under,  so  as  to  form  a  good  square  piece ;  put  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  butter  at  the  bottom  of  a  large  braising-pan,  let  melt,  then  lay 
in  your  beef  (which  must  previously  be  larded  through  the  best  part  with 
ten  long  pieces  of  fat  bacon),  seasoned  with  a  teaspoonfdl  of  salt,  and  half  ditto 
of  pepper,  cover  the  braising-pan,  and  put  it  upon  a  slow  fire  for  twenty 
minutes,  keeping  it  stirred  round  until  becoming  a  nice  gold  colour,  then  add 
a  pint  of  water ;  when  about  half  done  throw  in  eighty  button  onions  and 
about  sixty  small  pieces  of  carrot,  cut  the  size  and  shape  of  young  ones ;  half 
an  hour  after  add  the  same  number  of  pieces  of  turnips,  and  a  bunch  of 
parsley,  to  which  you  have  added  three  bay-leaves  and  four  sprigs  of  thyme, 
keep  stewing  gently  untU  the  vegetables  are  done,  and  the  beef  is  quite  tender, 
which  take  out,  trim,  and  lay  it  upon  your  dish,  skim  off  as  much  fat  as 
possible  from  the  vegetables,  add  an  ounce  of  butter  with  which  you  have 
mixed  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  with  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  boQ  altogether, 
dress  round  and  serve. 

No.  100.  Bee/d  la  Mode.  The  real  beef  &  la  mode  is  made  as  follows,  and 
not  as  a  kind  of  soup  daily  sold  in  cookshops. 

Procure  eitlier  a  small  piece  of  rump,  sirloin,  or  ribs  of  beef,  about  twelve 
pounds  in  weight,  take  away  all  the  bone,  and  lard  it  through  with  ten  long 


KITCHEN    AT   HOME.  665 

pieces  of  fkt  bacon ;  then  put  it  into  a  long  earthen  pan,  with  a  cairs  foot, 
four  onions,  two  carrots  cut  in  slices,  if  large,  a  buncn  of  parsley,  two  bay* 
leaves,  two  sprigs  of  thyme,  two  cloves  stuck  in  one  of  the  onions,  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  pepper,  one  of  salt,  four  wineglasses  of  sherry,  four  ditto  of 
water,  and  a  pound  of  streaked  bacon  cut  in  squares,  place  the  cover  upon 
the  pan,  with  a  piece  of  common  flour-and-water  paste  round  the  edges  to  keep 
it  perfectly  air-tight ;  put  in  a  very  moderate  oven  four  hours,  take  out,  place 
upon  your  dish  with  the  vegetables  and  bacon  round,  skim  the  gravy,  which 
pour  over ;  but  the  above  is  best  eaten  cold,  when  it  should  not  be  taken  out 
of  the  pan,  nor  the  pan  opened  until  nearly  cold.  A  long  brown  earthen 
pan  for  the  above  purpose  may  be  obtained  at  any  china  warehouse,  but  if 
you  cannot  obtain  one,  a  stewpan  must  supply  the  place. 

Another  Method,  Have  ready  six  pounds  of  rump  of  beef  cut  into  pieces 
two  inches  square,  lard  each  piece  through  with  two  or  three  lardons  of 
bacon ;  have  also  two  pounds  of  streaked  bacon,  clear  it  from  the  skin,  and 
cut  it  into  squares  half  the  size  of  the  beef,  put  them  into  an  earthen  pan 
with  two  calf  s  feet  (cut  up),  half  a  pint  of  sherry,  two  bay-leaves,  a  sprig  of 
thyme,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  four  onions,  with  a  clove  in  each,  a  blade  of  mace> 
and  half  a  pint  of  water,  cover  the  pan  as  in  the  last,  and  put  it  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  three  hours ;  do  not  open  the  pan  until  three  parts  cold,  then  take 
out  the  meat,  lay  a  little  of  the  beef  at  the  bottom  of  a  stewpan  (not  too 
large),  then  a  little  of  the  bacon,  then  more  beef,  and  so  on  alternately,  press 
them  together  lightly,  then  pass  the  gravy  through  a  hair  sieve  over,  and 
leave  it  until  quite  cold,  then  dip  the  stewpan  into  hot  water,  and  turn  out 
upon  your  dish  to  serve ;  the  calf's  feet  may  be  made  hot  in  a  little  of  the 
stock,  to  which  add  two  pats  of  butter,  with  which  you  have  mixed  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  flour,  a  little  chopped  parsley,  and  half  a  spoouful  of  vinegar, 
and  serve  as  an  enti^.    The  above  is  excellent  either  hot  or  cold. 

No.  101.  Ox-tongue,  Procure  a  well-pickled  ox-tongue,  if  weighing  five 
or  six  pounds  it  will  take  three  hours  gently  boihng  in  a  gallon  of  water ; 
when  done  skin  it  and  trim  the  root,  serve  where  afterwards  directed,  or  w«th 
spinach  dressed  as  (No.  1088.) 

No.  102.  Loin  of  Veal,  with  Stewed  Celery.  Put  a  small  loin  of  veal  upon 
a  spit  surrounded  with  all  descriptions  of  vegetables,  tied  up  in  oiled  paper ; 
roasty  if  a  middling-sized  one,  about  two  hours  and  a  half  before  a  moderate 
fire,  have  sixteen  heads  of  celery,  trim  off  all  the  green  part  from  the  tops, 
and  a  little  of  the  roots,  wash  well,  then  cover  the  bottom  of  a  stewpan  with 
slices  of  fat  bacon,  lay  in  the  celery,  two  heads  tied  together,  add  two  onions 
and  a  carroty  just  cover  them  with  a  little  good  stock,  made  as  directed  for 
Boupe  Julienne  (page  652),  let  simmer  an  hour  or  more  until  very  tender, 
drain  upon  a  cloth,  untie  them,  dress  the  loin  in  the  centre  of  your  dish, 
make  a  border  of  the  celery  round,  take  out  the  bacon,  onions,  and  carrot, 
skim  off  all  the  fat,  reduce  a  little,  add  an  ounce  of  butter,  with  which  you 
have  mixed  half  a  tablespoonful^f  flour,  stir  well  in,  season  with  a  little 
sugar,  salt,  and  pepper,  and  when  boiling,  sauce  over  the  celery  and  serve ; 
add  a  little  catsup  and  Harvey  sauce  to  give  a  brownish  colour  to  the  sauce. 

No.  103.  Loin  of  Veal,  with  White  Sauce.  Roast  a  loin  of  veal  as  di- 
rected in  the  last,  but  keep  it  as  white  as  possible,  when  done  dress  it  upon 


666  KITCHEN  AT  HOKE. 

yoor  dish,  with  some  small  well-boiled  canliflowen  round  it,  have  a  quart  of 
white  Mace  made  as  directed  (No.  136)  boihng  in  a  stewpan,  eance  over  the 
whole  and  serve ;  should  peas  be  in  season,  a  pint  of  young  green  ones  laaf 
be  boiled  and  sprinkled  over. 

No.  104.  BreM  Fillet  of  Veal  for  Remove.  Procure  «  small  fillet  of  Teal, 
skewered  up  very  round,  and  weU  covered  with  ndder,  place  a  good  piece  of 
streaked  bacon  in  the  centre  where  the  bone  was  taken  ont,  and  staff  it 
under  the  odder  thas :  chop  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  beef  suet  very  fine, 
which  put  into  a  basin  wiUi  six  ounces  of  bread-crumbs,  the  rind  of  half 
a  lemon  chopped  very  fine,  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  two  tablespoonfols  of 
chopped  parsley,  and  a  little  chopped  thyme  and  maijoram,  with  one  bay-lea^ 
mixed,  amalgamate  the  whole  with  the  yolks  of  three,  and  two  whole  eggs, 
sew  it  in,  surround  your  fillet  when  upon  the  spit  with  every  description  of 
vegetables,  tie  up  in  oiled  paper,  and  roast  about  three  hours  before  a  mode- 
rate fire ;  when  done  clear  it  from  the  vegetables,  skewer  up  with  silver, 
plated,  or  polished  skewers,  draw  out  those  it  was  first  trussed  with,  place 
upon  you  dish  with  celery  sauce  (page  47),  white  sauce  (No.  136),  or  rather 
thin  melted  butter,  with  which  you  have  mixed  two  tablespoonfuls  of  Harvey 
sauce  and  one  of  catsup,  and  boiled  until  it  becomes  rather  a  dear  brown 
sauce. 

No.  105.  BreaeU  and  Neeke  of  Veal  may  be  plain  roasted,  or  roasted  in 
vegetables  as  above,  and  served  with  stewed  peas  (No.  1077),  or  a  sauce  jar- 
diniere (page  40),  which  are  very  simply  described. 

No.  106.  Half  Calfs  Head,  vnth  White  Sauce.  Procure  the  half  of  a 
scftlded  calf's  head,  which  put  into  a  braising-pan,  just  cover  with  water,  add 
a  little  salt,  two  onions,  two  carrots,  two  turnips,  a  large  bunch  of  paralev, 
thyme,  and  bay-leaves,  and  six  cloves ;  boil  very  gently  for  two  hours,  or  until 
tender,  which  you  can  tell  by  pressing  upon  it  with  your  finger ;  when  done 
take  up,  drain  and  place  in  your  dish,  surrounded  with  some  well-boOed  po- 
tatoes cut  in  halves,  and  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  put  a  pint  and  a 
half  of  melted  butter  into  a  stewpan,  with  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  when  boiling 
add  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter  and  a  pinch  of  salt,  when  the  butter  is  melted 
add  a  liaison  of  two  yolks  of  eggs,  mixed  with  half  a  gill  of  cream,  stir  in 
quickly  over  the  fire,  but  do  not  let  it  boil,  sauce  over  and  serve ;  the  sauce 
requires  to  be  rather  highly  seasoned. 

Should  you  have  the  tongue  and  brains,  boil  the  tongue  with  the  head, 
when  done  skin  it,  lay  the  brains  in  warm  water  to  disgorge,  blanch  them 
two  minutes  in  boiling  water,  to  which  you  have  added  a  little  salt  and  vine- 
gar; skin,  chop,  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  the  juice  of  a  lemon, 
a  little  pepper  and  salt,  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  and  half  a  pint 
of  melted  butter,  boil  altogether  a  few  minutes,  turn  out  upon  a  dish,  dress 
the  tongue  over,  and  serve  with  the  calf's  head. 

No.  107.  Half  Caff 'e  Head  in  Currie,^  Boil  half  a  calf's  head  as  directed 
in  the  last,  and  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  put  four  large  onions  in 
slices  in  a  stewpan,  with  two  ounces  of  lean  ham,  three  apples  in  slices,  six 
cloves,  a  blade  of  mace,  two  bay-leaves,  and  two  ounces  of  butter,  pass  them 
over  the  fire,  until  slightly  browned,  add  two  good  tablespoonfuls  of  flour, 
and  one  of  currie-powder,  or  a  little  more  if  required,  mix  well  in,  add 


KITCHEN  AT  HOMB.  667 

a  quart  of  the  stock  the  head  was  boiled  in,  season  with  salt  and  sugar,  reduce 
until  of  a  proper  consistency,  rub  it  through  a  hair  sieve  or  tammie,  put  into 
another  stewpan,  boil  up,  skim,  and  sauce  over  the  head,  which  serve  with 
rice^  plain  boiled,  in  a  separate  dish. 

No.  108.  Half  CaifB  Head  d  la  Vinaigrette.  (See  No.  460,  Kitchen  of 
the  Wealthy.) 

No.  109.  Half  Calf  9  Head  BrMed^  Sauce  Piquante.  B^A  the  head  as 
before,  when  done  drain  upon  a  napkin,  place  it  upon  a  baking-sheet,  e^g 
over  with  a  paste-brush,  cover  with  breaa-crumbs,  put  a  few  small  pieces  of 
butter  upon  it  at  various  places,  and  put  into  a  hot  oven  until  well  browned; 
dress  upon  your  dish  with  a  pint  of  good  sharp  sauce  (page  1 5)  round.  The 
tongue  and  brains  may  be  served  dressed  as  described  before,  with  each  of  the 
methods  for  dreasing  calf  s  head. 

No.  110.  Large  Veal  Pie,  Have  ready  boiled  a  pound  of  streaked  bacon, 
when  cold  cut  it  in  large  thin  slices,  also  cut  four  pounds  of  lean  veal  from 
the  fillet  into  large  but  thin  slices,  season  each  piece  well  with  pepper  and 
salt,  and  dip  them  into  flour ;  lay  some  of  the  bacon  at  the  bottom  of  a  pie- 
dish,  then  some  veal,  over  which  sprinkle  a  little  chopped  eschalots,  then  more 
bacon,  and  so  on  alternately,  finishing  in  a  perfect  dome ;  have  ready  a  pound 
of  half  pufi*  paste  (p.  480),  place  a  band  round  the  edge  of  your  dish,  wet  it, 
and  pour  in  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  water  to  the  meat,  cover  with  the  remainder 
of  the  paste,  egg  over,  and  decorate  it  tastefully,  bake  an  hour  and  three 
quarters  in  a  moderate  oven.  They  may  also  be  made  of  the  remains  of  a 
joint  of  veal  previously  served,  but  half  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (No.  136)  used 
in  it,  and  the  water  omitted,  but  the  paste  will  then  require  to  be  much 
thinner,  and  it  must  be  baked  in  a  much  warmer  oven,  or  die  meat  would  eat 
dry  ;  a  couple  of  bay-leaves  in  a  veal  pie  is  a  great  improvement. 

No.  111.  Saddle  of  Mutton  d  la  Bretonne,     (Seepage  189.) 

No.  112.  Leg  of  Mutton  hasted  with  DeviVs  Tears.  Procure  a  fine  but 
small  leg  of  mutton  which  has  been  well  kept,  cut  an  incision  in  the  knuckle, 
in  which  put  a  clove  of  garlic,  rub  all  over  with  a  spoonful  of  salt,  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  cayenne,  two  ditto  of  black  pepper,  and  another  clove  of  garlic 
(well  mixed),  and  let  remain  upon  a  dish  until  ihe  following  day,  when  place 
it  upon  a  spit  before  a  sharp  fire,  then  procure  about  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
fat  bacon,  place  it  upon  a  long  toasting  fork,  running  the  prongs  through  the 
rind,  and  hold  over  the  fire  until  in  a  blaze,  then  hold  ft  over  the  mutton  upon 
which  it  will  drop  in  tears  of  fire,  until  all  melted  ;  it  will  give  the  mutton 
quite  a  peculiar  flavour  and  appearance,  and  requiring  a  quarter  of  an  hour 
less  to  roast  than  in  the  ordinary  method ;  when  done  dress  upon  your  dish, 
sauce  over  with  two  spoonfuls  of  Harvey  sauce  and  serve. 

No.  113.  Leg  of  Mutton,  the  Housevsifes  Method.  Have  a  good  leg,  beat 
it  a  little  with  a  rolling-pin,  make  an  incision  in  the  knuckle,  in  which  put 
two  cloves  of  garlic,  then  put  it  into  a  braising-pan,  with  a  pound  of  lean 
bacon  cut  in  eight  pieces,  set  over  a  moderate  fire  half  an  hour,  moving  it  now 
and  then  until  becoming  a  light  brown  colour,  season  with  a  little  pepper  and 
salt,  add  twenty  pieces  of  carrots  of  the  same  size  as  tlie  bacon,  fifteen  mid- 


668  KITCHKN  AT  HOMB. 

dliiig-«ised  onions,  tnd  when  half  done  fifteen  middling-«ised  potatoes,  tvo 
bay-leaves,  two  cloyes,  and  a  pint  of  water,  replace  it  upon  a  moderate  fire, 
moving  round  oecasionallj,  stew  nearly  three  hours,  dress  upon  your  dish, 
with  the  carrots  and  onions  dressed  tastefully  around,  take  off  as  much  of  the 
fat  from  the  gravy  as  possible  (which  will  be  a  little  thickened  by  the  potatoes), 
take  out  the  bay-leaves,  and  pour  the  garniture  ""round  the  mutton,  which 
serve  very  hot. 

No.  1 14.  Shoulder  of  Mutton^  Savoyard" 9  Method.  Put  a  small  shoulder 
of  mutton  in  a  deep  saute-pan  or  baking-dish,  season  with  a  little  pepper 
and  salt,  cover  over  with  thin  slices  of  fat  bacon,  then  put  in  ten  pota- 
toes peeled  and  quartered,  and  the  same  quantity  of  apples,  with  half  a 
pint  of  water,  place  in  a  moderate  oven  and  bake  for  two  hours,  dress  upon 
your  dish,  with  the  potatoes  and  apples  round,  skim  all  the  fat  from  the 
gravy,  which  pour  over  and  serve;  it  requires  a  little  oil  or  butter  over  before 
baking. 

No.  115.  Shoulder  of  Mutton  d  la  Polonaise.  As  described  (No.  467)  in 
the  other  department  of  this  work. 

No.  116.  Shoulder  of  Mutton,  Proven^ale  Fashion,  Roast  a  fine  shoulder 
of  mutton ;  whilst  roasting  mince  ten  huqge  onions  very  fine,  put  them  into  a 
stewpan,  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  salad-oil,  pass  them  ten  minutes  over  a 
good  fire,  keeping  it  stirred,  then  add  a  tablespoonfnl  of  flour,  stir  well  in, 
and  a  pint  of  milk,  season  with  a  little  pepper,  salt,  and  sugar ;  when  the 
onions  are  quite  tender,  and  the  sauce  rather  thick,  stir  in  the  yolks  of  two 
eggs  and  take  it  ofi*  the  fire ;  when  the  shoulder  is  done  spread  the  onions 
over  the  top,  egg  over,  cover  with  bread-crumbs,  put  in  the  oven  ten  minutes, 
and  salamander  a  light  brown  colour,  dress  upon  your  dish,  put  the  gravy  from 
it  in  your  stewpan,  with  a  pat  of  butter,  with  which  you  have  mixed  a  little 
fiour,  boil  up,  add  a  little  scraped  garlic,  pour  round  the  shoulder,  which  serve. 
The  shoulder  may  also  be  dressed  in  the  housewife's  method,  as  directed  for 
the  leg.     A  Uttle  burnt  sugar  may  be  added. 

No.  117.  Saddle  of  Lamb,  Berlin  Fashion.  Roast  a  small  saddle  of  lamb 
an  hour,  keeping  it  rather  pale ;  you  have  boiled  eight  or  ten  good  potatoes, 
peel  them,  put  in  a  stewpan,  add  two  ounces  of  butter,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
a  quarter  ditto  of  pepper,  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  and  a  little 
grated  nutmeg ;  mix  all  well  together  with  a  fork,  add  half  a  gill  of  milk 
and  one  egg,  turn  well  with  a  wooden  spoon,  let  it  get  cold,  and  roll  them 
in  long  shape  and  size'of  plover's  eggs,  egg  and  bread-crumb  twice,  fry  light- 
coloured  in  hot  lard  or  fat ;  dress  your  saddle  upon  a  dish,  surround  it  with 
the  potatoes,  have  half  a  pint  of  melted  butter  in  a  stewpan,  place  upon  the 
fire,  and  when  upon  the  point  of  boiling  stir  in  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  maitre 
d*  hotel  butter  (page  33)  highly  seasoned ;  when  quite  melted  sauce  round 
and  serve  with  mint  sauce  likewise  in  a  boat ;  for  other  variations  see  pages 
1 97,  1 98,  and  following  pages.  Haunch,  fore-quarter,  or  ribs  may  be  dressed 
the  same. 

No.  118.  Leg  or  Shoulder  of  Lamb  with  Peas,  The  leg  or  shoulder 
must  be  plain  roasted  (see  page  645)  ;  boil  a  quart  of  very  young  peas,  which 
strain  and  put  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  half  a  tea- 


KITCHEN    AT  HOME.  669 

Bpoonftil  of  salt,  and  one  of  sugar,  toss  them  well  together  over  the  fire 
until  the  butter  is  melted,  when  pour  them  into  your  dish  and  dress  the  joint 
over. 

No.  119.  Leg  or  Shoulder,  with  French  Beans.  Plain  roasted  as  before; 
you  have  cut  and  boiled  twg  hundred  French  beans,  drain  and  put  them  into  a 
stewpan  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter,  a  little  pepper,  salt,  pow- 
dereci  sugar,  and  grated  nutmeg,  toss  over  the  fire  till  the  butter  is  melted, 
add  half  a  pint  of  melted  butter ;  boil  altogether  ten  minutes,  then  stir  in 
quickly  a  liaison  of  one  yolk  of  egg  mixed  with  a  quarter  of  a  gill  of  cream, 
pour  them  in  your  dish  and  serve  the  joint  over. 

No.  120.  Boiled  Leg  of  Lamb,  with  Spinach.  Boil  a  small  very  white 
leg  of  lamb  (see  page  646),  have  also  half  a  sieve  of  spinach,  well  picked, 
washed,  and  boilea,  drain  it  quite  dry,  chop  it  very  fine,  and  put  it  into  a 
stewpan,  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter,  a  little  salt,  sugar,  and 
grated  nutmeg  ;  stir  over  the  fire  untU  very  hot,  then  add  a  tablespoonful  of 
flour,  eight  of  melted  butter,  and  four  of  cream  or  milk,  boil  two  or  three 
minutes,  keeping  it  stirred,  then  pour  it  upon  your  dish,  and  dress  the  leg 
over. 

No.  121.  Neck  of  Lamb  d  la  Jardinikre.  Plain  roast  the  neck;  you  have 
previouslv  cut  with  a  round  tin  cutter  rather  lanrer  than  a  quill  about  fifty 
piece,  of 'carrot,  and  one  hundred  pieces  of  turnip,  half  an  ?nch  in  length, 
put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  twenty  button  onions  ready  peeled,  two 
ounces  of  butter,  and  a  teaspoonfiil  of  powdered  sugar ;  place  them  over  a 
sharp  fire  (keeping  them  moved  to  prevent  burning)  ten  minutes,  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  flour  and  a  pint  of  broth,  which  reserve  from  your  soup,  stand  it 
at  the  comer  of  the  fire,  add  a  small  bunch  of  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay-leaf, 
and  let  boil  until  the  vegetables  are  tender  and  the  sauce  becomes  thickish, 
keeping  well  skimme*d,  then  add  a  few  ready  boiled  peas,  French  beans, 
Brussels  sprouts,  or  any  other  green  vegetables  in  season,  pour  the  sauce  in 
your  dish,  and  dress  the  lamb  upon  it ;  if  your  sauce  is  not  quite  brown 
enough  add  a  few  drops  of  colouring  to  it. 

No.  122.  Lamb's  Head  Broiled,  with  Mint  Sauce,  or  Sauce  Piquante. 
Procure  two  heads,  split  them,  but  not  to  detach  them,  take  out  the  brains 
and  the  greater  part  of  the  skull  bone,  forming  each  head  as  nearly  as  possible 
to  the  shape  of  a  heart,  put  them  into  a  braising-pan,  with  two  onions,  a 
carrot,  turnip,  head  of  celerv,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay-leaf,  six 
cloves,  a  blade  of  mace,  and  just  cover  them  with  a  little  water,  stew  them 
until  quite  tender,  then  take  out,  drain,  egg  over  with  a  paste-brush,  and 
cover  them  with  bread-crumbs,  place  small  pieces  of  butter  here  and  there 
over  them,  place  them  in  the  oven  ten  minutes,  then  brown  tliem  with  a  sala- 
mander, and  serve  them  with  a  good  sauce  piquante  (page  15)  round  them,  or 
they  may  be  served  with  the  brains  cooked  as  directed  for  calfs  brains 
(page  282)  under  them  ;  sheeps*  heads  are  done  the  same,  only  they  require 
a  longer  time  to  stew. 

The  heart  and  pluck  are  also  excellent  served  under  them  as  follows :  blanch 
them  in  boiling  water  twenty  minutes,  and  when  half  cold  cut  the  whole  in 
very  fine  dice,  put  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  spoonful 
of  chopped  onions,  pass  over  the  fire  two  minutes  (keep  stirring),  then  add  a 
spoonful  of  flour  (mix  well),  moisten  with  a  pint  of  broth  or  milk,  when 


670  KITCHEN  AT  HOME. 

boiling  add  the  mince,  and  aeason  with  a  teaspoonM  of  salt,  a  quarter  ditto 
of  white  pepper,  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg. 

No.  1 23.  Loin  or  Neck  of  Pork  d  la  Bourguinotie.  The  neck  ix  loin  most 
be  plain  roasted ;  you  have  peeled  and  cut  fonr  onions  in  dice,  pat  thiem  into 
a  stewpan,  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  stir  over  Jthe  fire  until  rath^  browi^ 
then  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  mix  weU,  add  a  good  pint  of  broth  if  any, 
or  water,  with  an  ounce  of  glaze,  boil  ten  minutes,  add  two  tablespoonfiib 
of  French  mustard,  with  a  little  pepper,  salt,  and  sugar,  pour  the  saace  upon 
the  dish,  and  dress  your  joint  upon  it ;  serve  with  a  fittle  apple  sauce  separate 
in  a  boat. 

No.  124.  Xotn  or  Neck  of  Porky  Normandy  fashion.  Procure  a  neck 
or  loin,  put  it  in  a  common  earthen  dish,  having  previously  scored  the 
rind,  rub  over  with  a  little  oil,  place  about  twenty  potatoes  cut  in  halves  or 
in  Quarters  in  the  dish  with  the  pork,  ten  onions  peeled,  and  twenty  apples 
peeled  and  quartered,  place  in  a  warm  oven  for  an  hour  and  a  half  or  more^ 
then  dress  it  upon  your  dish  with  the  apples,  onions,  and  potatoes  around* 
and  serve. 

No.  1 25.  Pig*s  Cheek,  a  new  Method.  Procure  a  pig*s  cheek  nicely  pickled 
(see  page  649),  boil  well  until  it  feels  very  tender,  tie  half  a  pint  of  split  peas 
in  a  cloth,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  of  boiling  water,  boil  about  half  an  boor, 
take  them  out,  pass  through  a  hair  sieve,  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  an 
ounce  of  butter,  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  and  four  eggs,  stir  them  over  the  fire, 
until  the  eggs  are  partially  set,  then  spread  it  over  the  pig's  cheek,  egg  with 
a  paste-brush,  sprinkle  bread  -crumbs  over,  place  in  the  oven  twenty  minutes^ 
brown  it  with  the  salamander  and  serve. 

No.  126.  Sucking  Pig  is  merely  plain  roasted  (see  page  204),  stuffed  with 
sage  and  onions,  but  before  putting  it  upon  the  spit  it*  requires  to  be  floured 
and  rubbed  very  dry,  otherwise  the  skin  would*  not  eat  crisp  ;  the  usual  me- 
thod of  serving  it  is  to  cut  off  the  head,  and  divide  the  body  and  head  of 
the  pig  in  halves,  lengthwise ;  serve  apple  sauce  separate  in  a  boat  if  ap- 
proved of. 

In  my  Kitchen  at  Home  I  can  also  roast  a  haunch  or  neck  of  venison,  de- 
pending upon  which  is  presented  to  me,  and  precisely  as  recommended  in  the 
other  depiurtment  of  this  book  (page  222) ;  for  the  remains  I  also  proceed 
the  same. 

No.  127.  Roast  Turkey,  Pluck,  draw,  and  truss  a  turkey  for  roasting, 
stuff  it  at  the  breast  vdUi  the  same  stuffing  as  directed  for  the  fillet  of  veal 
(page  51)  ;  if  it  should  weigh  twelve  pounds  it  will  require  two  hours  roasting 
before  a  strong  fire,  when  done  take  it  off  the  'spit,  take  away  the  skewer  and 
string  it  was  trussed  with,  hold  it  by  the  legs,  sprinkle  a  little  salt  over,  and 
pour  a  little  hot  water  or  broth  over  the  back  to  make  a  gravy,*  and  serve  with 
broiled  sausages,  ham,  or  a  piece  of  boiled  bacon,  separate. 

No.  128.  Braised  Turkey.  Truss  a  nice  turkey  with  the  legs  inside 
as  for  boiling,  then  put  three  onions  in  slices  at  the  bottom  of  a  stewpan, 

*  If  you  should  have  a  little  gravy,  use  it  instead  of  water,  if  not  a  piece  of  glaze 
added  tc  half  a  pint  of  water  would  make  a  very  good  gravy. 


KITCHEN  AT  HOME.  671 

irith  a  carroty  tamip,  leek,  and  a  head  of  celery,  also  cut  small,  a  bunch  of 
parsley,  a  sprig  of  thyme,  a  bay-leaf,  four  cloves,  a  blade  of  mace,  half  a 
ponnd  of  lean  ham,  and  two  pounds  of  veal  cut  in  dice,  cover  them  with  two 
quarts  of  water,  then  lay  in  the  turkey,  breast  downwards,  coyer  the  stewpan 
close,  and  let  it  simmer  about  two  hours  oyer  a  slow  fire ;  then  take  it  up, 
place  it  upon  your  dish,  wi^h  a  coyer  oyer  it  to  keep  it  hot,  then  pass  the 
stock  from  it  through  a  hair  sieve  into  a  stewpan,  place  it  upon  the  fire,  boil 
and  skim  off  all  the  grease ;  then  in  another  stewpan  place  two  ounces  of 
butter,  let  melt,  then  stir  in  a  sufficient  quantity  of  flour  to  make  a  roux,  stir 
over  the  fire  some  time,  but  keeping  it  quite  white,  then  take  it  off,  stir  until 
partly  cold,  add  the  stock,  boil,  keep  it  stirred ;  if  too  thick  add  a  little  milk, 
season  with  a  little  salt  and  sugar,  place  four  cauliflowers  nicely  boiled  round 
the  turkey,  sauce  over  the  whole  and  serve ;  a  boiled  ham,  tongue,  or  a  piece 
of  bacon  is  usuaUy  served  separate  with  it. 

No.  129.  Caparu  or  PotUardes  are  almost  too  extravagant  for  My  Kitchen 
at  Home,  but  may  be  either  plain  roasted  or  braised,  as  directed  for  the  turkey 
in  the  last,  and  served  with  peas,  French  beans,  or  sauce  jardiniere,  made  as 
directed  for  the  legs  or  shoulders  of  lamb,  only  for  jardiniere,  stewing  the 
vegetables  in  the  sauce  you  have  made  firom  your  braise,  instead  of  the  method 
there  directed. 

No.  130.  Fowls,  with  Mushroom  Sauce,  Braise  two  fowls,  trussed  for 
boiling,  precisely  as  directed  for  braised  turkey ;  when  your  sauce  is  made, 
add  a  pottle  of  white  button  mushrooms,  stew  for  half  an  hour  in  the  sauce, 
adding  a  little  sugar,  then  stir  in  a  Haison  of  one  yolk  of  egg  mixed  with  a 
spoonful  of  cream,  take  it  instantly  from  the  fire,  dress  the  poularde  upon 
your  dish,  and  sauce  over. 

No.  131.  Fowls,  with  Spring  Vegetables.  Braise  a  poularde  as  directed  for 
the  turkey,  and  make  a  sauce  from  the  braise  as  there  directed ;  then  have 
twenty  young  carrots  and  twenty  young  turnips,  lightly  peeled,  and  three 
parts  boiled,  with  twenty  small  onions,  drain  and  put  them  into  your  sauce, 
which  you  have  made  as  No.  136,  with  a  good  teaspoonful  of  powdered  suear ; 
stew  them  gently  until  tender,  then  d^s  the  poidarde  upon  your  dish, 
arrange  the  vegetables  tastefully  around,  mix  half  a  gill  of  cream  with  the 
sauce,  boil  a  few  minutes,  sauce  over  the  whole  and  serve. 

No.  132.  Fowls  Braised,  Frieassie  Sauce,  Bnuse  the  fowls  as  before,  and 
make  the  sauce  from  the  braise,  in  which  put  a  bunch  of  parsley,  fifty  button 
onions,  and  a  pottle  of  mushrooms,  both  well  peeled ;  stew  half  an  hour,  add 
a  little  sugar,  salt,  and  a  gill  of  cream,  boil  ^  few  minutes,  sauce  over  and 
serve.  Chickens  may  be  dressed  in  either  of  the  above  methods,  calculating 
the  time  they  require  cooking  by  their  size. 

No.  133.  Roast  Ooose,  Pluck,  draw,  and  truss  a  goose,  fill  the  inside 
with  sage  and  onions,  by  cutting  four  large  onions  into  smdl  dice,  and  put 
them  into  a  stewpan  with  a  few  leaves  of  sage  (chopped  fine),  and  a  couple 
of  well-boUed  mealy  potatoes,  crumbled  very  small,  add  two  ounces  of  butter, 
and  a  little  pepper  and  salt ;  when  the  onions  become  tender  stuff  the  goose, 
the  day  previous  if  time  permit,  which  roast  an  hour  and  a  quarter  before 
a  moderate  fire,  serve  plain,  witii  a  little  gravy  on  the  dish,  and  apple  sauce 
separate. 


672  KITCHEN  AT  HOME. 

No.  134.  Ducks  may  ako  be  stuffed  and  roasted  as  a  goose ;  a  few  apples 
may  also  be  used  with  the  stufiing  instead  of  potatoes,  for  either  ducks  or 
geese,  if  approved  of. 


8I1CFLIFIED   ENTRisS. 

The  word  entrfe  is  a  French  culinary  term  (universally  known  by  the 
nobihty  and  gentry  of  Europe),  signifying  a  comer,  or  made  dish,  in  which 
sauce  Lb  introduced,  the  importance  of  which  is  known  in  the  kitchens  of  the 
wealthy  as  forming  the  size  and  ma^tude  of  a  dinner.  Being  considered  as 
the  principal  dish  upon  which  it  is  mtended  to  dine  well,  the  wealthy  epicure 
orders  his  cook  to  prepare  a  dinner  of  four,  six,  or  eight  entrees,  thus  making 
a  criterion  for  the  second  course,  which,  in  the  opinion  of  real  gourmets,  is  a 
secondary  consideration  of  delight,  and  very  often  left  entirely  to  the  cook. 
But  when  a  lady  of  moderate  income  is  consulted,  she  very  properly  devotes 
all  her  attention,  good  taste,  and  economy  to  the  subject. 

The  entrees,  however,  which  I  am  here  about  to  describe,  are  very  econo- 
mical ;  whilst  those  entrees  of  importance,  which  are  so  well  known  for  their 
excellence  and  unavoidable  expense,  I  have  left  to  those  whose  means  will 
better  afford  it,  and  content  myself  with  here  offering  to  my  readers  those 
only  with  which  I  would  be  content  in  placing  before  my  fiiends  at  home. 

My  readers  will  find  that  certain  made  dishes,  instead  of  being  expensive, 
tend  to  greater  economy.  Every  ordinary  cook  might  be  perfect  in  roasting 
and  boiling  a  joint,  but  quite  incapable  of  making  a  single  made  dish  to  per- 
fection, even  from  the  remains  of  a  joint.  In  a  tradesman's  family  it  often 
happens  that  he  dines  once  or  twice  a  week  from  a  Sunday  joint,  either  in 
winter  or  summer;  in  the  last  it  is  partly  excusable,  but,  in  the  former,  hot 
meat  for  such  an  important  meal  is  much  more  preferable,  being  more  light 
than  cold,  and  of  course  digests  more  freely.  To  prove  the  truth  of  this  argu- 
ment, pickles  are  continuaUy  used  with  cold  meat  to  invigorate  and  open  the 
appetite,  and  facilitate  digestion.  I  would  always  advise  to  take  a  little  cold 
lunch,  and  a  hot  late  dinner,  if  circumstances  permit^  and  avoid  as  much  as 
possible  a  supper,  particularly  a  late  one. 

SAUCES. — No.  136.  For  daily  use  I  avoid  making  any  foundation  sauces, 
but  when  I  want  to  give  a  little  party  at  home,  I  genendly  previously  provide  a 
small  quantity  of  white  and  brown  sauce  as  follows : 

Cut  and  chop  a  knuckle  of  veal,  weighing  about  four  pounds,  into  large 


I 


'No.  135,  Ihicks  h  rjubergiiie  (or  Taperf^keeper^e/athion),  Tnuaoneor  \ 
two  ducks  with  the  legs  turned  inside,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  butter ;  place  them  over  a  slow  fire,  turning  round  oc^casionall  j, 
until  they  have  taken  a  nice  brown  colour,  add  two  spoonAils  of  flour,  mix 
well  with  them,  add  a  quart  of  water,  with  half  a  tablespoonful  of  salt  and 
sugar,  let  simmer  gently  until  the  ducks  are  done  (but  adding  forty  button 
omons  well  peeled  as  soon  as  it  begins  to  boil),  keep  hot ;  peel  and  cut  ten 
turnips  in  slices,  fry  them  in  a  firing-pan  with  butter,  drain  upon  a  cloth, 
put  them  into  the  sauce,  and  stew  until  quite  tender ;  dress  the  ducks  upon 
your  dish,  skim  the  fat  firom  the  sauce,  which  has  attained  a  consistency,  pour 
round  the  ducks  and  serve. 


KITCHEN  AT  HOME.  673 

dice ;  butter  the  bottom  of  a  large  stewpan  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
batter,  add  two  onions,  a  small  carrot,  a  turnip,  three  cloves,  half  a  blade  of 
mace,  a  bay-leaf,  a  sprig  of  thyme,  and  six  of  parsley  tied  in  a  bunch  ;  add  a 
gill  of  water,  place  over  a  sharp  fire,  stirring  round  occasionally,  until  the 
bottom  of  the  stewpan  is  covered  with  whitish  glaze,  when  fill  up  with  three 
quarts  of  water,  add  a  good  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  let  simmer  at  the  comer 
of  the  fire  an  hour  and  a  half,  keeping  well  skimmed,  when  pass  it  through 
a  hair  sieve  into  a  basin ;  in  another  stewpan  put  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  butter,  with  which  mix  six  ounces  of  flour,  stirring  over  the  fire  about 
three  minutes,  take  ofi*,  keep  stirring  until  partly  cold,  when  add  the  stock 
all  at  once,  continually  stirring  and  boiling  for  a  quarter  of  an.  hour ;  add 
half  a  pint  of  boiling  milk,  stir  a  few  minutes  longer,  add  a  little  chopped 
mushrooms  if  handy,  paiss  through  a  hair  sieve  into  a  basin,  until  required 
for  use,  stirring  it  round  occasionally  until  cold ;  the  above  being  a  simplified 
white  sauce. 

For  a  brown  sauce  I  use  the  same  proportion  as  for  the  white,  but  having 
beef  instead  of  veal  for  the  stock,  which  must  be  made  brown  by  placing  four 
large  Qnions  cut  in  halves  at  the  bottom  of  the  stewpan,  which  must  be  well 
buttered,  placing  the  meat  over,  standing  upon  the  fire,  and  drawing  down  to 
a  brown  glaze  before  filling  up  ;  the  thickening  must  also  be  made  brown,  by 
stirring  a  few  minutes  longer  over  the  fire,  and  the  milk  omitted.  Sometimes 
I  make  both  stocks  in  the  same  stewpan,  pass  one  half  for  the  white  sauce, 
and  put  a  couple  of  burnt  onions  into  the  remainder,  allowing  it  to  simmer  an 
hour  longer,  when  pass  and  use  for  a  brown  sauce. 

No.  137.  Melted  Butter,  Put  two  ounces  of  butter  into  a  stewpan,  with 
which  mix  a  good  teaspoonjfol  of  flour,  using  a  wooden  spoon,  add  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  salt,  half  a  one  of  pepper,  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  and  half  a  pint 
of  water,  stir  oyer  the  fire  unm  just  upon  the  point  of  boiling,  when  take 
off,  add  two  ounces  more  butter,  and  half  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar, 
keeping  it  stirred  until  quite  smooth,  and  the  butter  well  melted,  when  pass 
through  a  hair  sieve  or  tammie  if  required  (yoa  can  also  use  milk  instead  of 
water  for  the  above)  ;  it  is  then  ready  for  use.  In  making  melted  butter 
ereat  attention  ought  to  be  paid  to  the  above  directions,  it  being  almost  in 
daily  use. 

No.  138.  New  and  Eeomomieal  Lobster  Sauce,  Break  up  a  fresh  lobster, 
use  the  solid  flesh  for  salad  or  any  other  purpose,  pound  the  soft  part  and  shell 
together  (in  a  mortar)  very  fine,  place  the  whole  in  a  stewpan,  cover  with  a 
pint  of  boiling  water,  place  over  the  fire,  and  let  simmer  ten  minutes,  when 
pass  the  liquor  through  a  hair  sieve  into  a  basin,  and  use  for  making  melted 
butter  as  in  the  last,  to  which  add  a  little  cayenne  pepper  and  a  piece  of 
anchovy  butter  (see  page  33,  Kitchen  of  the  Wealthy)  the  size  of  a  walnut ;  if 
any  red  spawn  in  the  lobster,  pound  and  mix  it  with  a  small  piece  of  fresh 
butter,  and  add  to  the  sauce  with  a  little  lemon-juice  whai  upon  the  point  of 
serving ;  an  anchovy  pounded  with  the  shells  of  the  lobster  would  be  an  im- 
provement ;  some  of  the  flesh  may  be  served  in  the  sauce. 

No.  139.  LohHer  Sauce  it  la  Crhne,  Cut  up  a  small  lobster  into  slices,  the 
size  of  half-crown  pieces,  put  into  a  stewpan,  pound  the  soft  and  white  part 
with  an  ounce  of  Imtter,  and  rub  it  through  a  sieve  ;  pour  three  spoonfuLs  of 
melted  butter,  and  two  of  cream,  over  the  slices  in  the  stewpan,  add  half  a 

43 


674  KITCHEN  AT  HOME. 

bUde  of  mace*  a  udtapoonful  of  udt,  a  quarter  ditto  of  pepper,  and  a  little 
eayenne,  warm  gently,  and  when  upon  the  point  of  boiling  add  the  butter  and 
two  spoonfuls  of  thick  cream,  shake  round  over  the  fire  until  quite  hot^  when 
it  is  ready  to  senre. 

No.  140.  Lohtier  Sauce  nw^ified*  Put  the  slices  of  lobster  as  above  into 
a  stewpan,  with  four  spoonfuls  of  milk,  add  a  little  salt,  pepper,  cayenne,  two 
doves,  and  a  quarter  of  a  }Aade  of  mace,  let  boil,  add  a  piece  of  butter  the 
sise  of  a  walnut,  with  which  you  have  mixed  a  little  flour,  shake  round  over 
the  fire,  and  when  getting  thick,  add  half  a  gill  of  cream ;  when  quite  hot  it 
is  ready  to  serve. 

No,  141.  iSArtsip  Sauce  is  ver^  excellent  made  by  pounding  half  a  pint 
of  shrimps  with  their  skins,  boiling  ten  minutes  in  three  parts  of  a  pint  of 
water,  finishing  as  directed  for  lobster  sauce  (No.  138),  and  always  serving 
v*y  hot. 

No.  142.  Anchovy  Sauce  is  made  by  adding  a  spoonful  of  Harvey  sauce  and 
two  of  essence  of  anchovy,  with  a  little  cayenne,  to  half  a  pint  of  melted 
butter ;  shrimps,  prawns,  or  even  blanched  oysters  may  be  served  in  it« 

No.  143.  Oyeter  Sauce*  Put  two  dozen  of  oysters  into  a  stewpan  with  their 
liquor,  and  two  spoonfUs  of  water,  add  six  peppercorns,  and  half  a  blade  of 
mace,  blanch  them  until  just  set,  drain  the  oysters  upon  a  sieve,  catching  the 
liquor  in  another  stewpan,  detach  the  beards  from  the  oysters,  which  put  again 
into  the  liquor,  place  over  the  fire  ;  when  beginning  to  simmer,  add  a  piece 
of  butter  the  sise  of  a  walnut,  with  which  you  nave  mixed  sufficient  flour  to 
form  a  paste,  breaking  it  in  four  or  five  pieces,  shake  round  over  the  fire,  when 
it  thickens  add  a  gill  of  milk,  season  with  a  little  cayenne,  salt,  pepper,  and  a 
few  drops  of  essence  of  anchovies,  serve  very  hot. 

Another  way.  Blanch  and  save  the  liquor  as  above,  omitting  the  water ; 
reduce  to  half,  add  eight  spoonfuls  of  melted  butter  made  with  milk,  season 
rather  high,  adding  a  teaspoonful  of  Harvey  sauce  and  one  of  essence  of  an- 
chovy ;  it  is  then  ready  for  use. 

No.  144.  Caper  Sauce.  Make  half  a  pint  of  good  melted  butter,  to  which 
add  a  tablespoonfhl  of  capers  and  a  teaspoonful  of  their  vinegar.  Observe, 
that  all  fish  sauces  are  better  too  thick  man  too  thin,  the  fish  being  watery, 
the  sauce  would  not  envelope  it  if  too  thin. 

No.  145.  To  chop  Onions,  Herbe,  ^c.  Every  practical  cook  knows  how 
to  chop  the  above  ingredients  to  perfection,  but  many  plain  cooks  instead  of 
choppmg,  literally  smash  them  with  their  knives,  thus  losing  the  succulence 
and  flavour,  whicn  becomes  absorbed  by  the  wood  they  are  smashed  upon. 

For  onions,  peel,  and  cut  in  halves  lengthwise,  then  with  a  thin  knife  cut 
each  half  in  slices,  leaving  them  jointed  at  the  root ;  again  cut  into  shoes  con- 
trarywise,  and  then  firom  top  to  bottom,  thus  having  cut  it  into  very  small 
squares ;  then  take  the  knife  lightiy  with  the  right  hand,  place  two  fingers  of 
the  left  upon  the  point,  and  commence  chopping,  lifting  the  knife  entirely 
every  stroke,  not  digging  the  point  into  the  board,  and  pressing  heavily  upon 
the  handle,  as  is  too  commonly  the  case ;  when  chopped  very  fine  put  them 


''W 


KITCHEN  AT  HOME.  G75 

into  the  corner  of  a  clean  cloth,  which  rinse  in  water  to  wash  them,  squeeze 
quite  dry  in  the  cloth,  they  will  he  then  as  white  as  possible,  and  quite  ready 
for  use.  Eschalots  are  chopped  in  the  same  manner,  cutting  first  into  small 
dice,  without  cutting  them  in  halves. 

For  parsley  or  herbs,  previously  wash  very  clean,  take  the  stalks  in  your  left 
hand  (when  quite  dry),  pressing  upon  the  leaves  with  your  fingers,  holding 
the  knife  with  your  right  hand,  cutting  as  fine  as  possible ;  chop  as  directed 
for  the  onions.  By  following  the  above  directions  you  will  be  enabled  to  chop 
them  very  fine,  scarcely  staining  the  board  ;  the  above  directions  to  some  may 
appear  superfluous,  but  the  difference  made  in  the  flavour  of  sauces,  by  their 
being  well  or  badly  chopped,  being  so  great,  caused  me  to  make  these 
observations. 

No.  146.  To  make  a  Colouring  or  Browtdngfrom  Sugar.  Put  two  ounces 
of  white  powdered  sugar  into  a  middling-sized  stewpan,  which  place  over  a 
slow  fire ;  when  beginning  to  melt,  stir  round  with  a  wooden  spoon  until 
getting  quite  black,  when  set  it  in  a  moderate  oven  upon  a  trivet  about  twenty 
minutes,  pour  a  pint  of  cold  water  over,  let  dissolve,  place  in  a  bottle,  and  use 
wherever  directed  in  My  Kitchen  at  Home. 


ECONOMICAL  MADE  DISHES.  > 

No.  147.  Fillet  of  Beef  or  a  small  rump  steak  is  very  excellent  dressed  in 
the  following  new  way : 

Procure  a  piece  of  fillet  of  beef,  weighing  fh>m  three  to  four  pounds,  which 
can  be  purchased  in  any  butcher's  shop,  being  the  under  part  of  the  rump ; 
trim  it  a  little,  taking  off  part  of  the  skin,  leaving  a  piece  of  fat  half  an  inch 
in  thickness  upon  each  side,  cut  it  crosswise  in  slices  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in 
thickness,  making  about  six  pieces,  beat  lightly,  giving  them  a  roundish  shape ; 
place  them  upon  a  gridiron  over  a  sharp  fire,  season  whilst  broiling  with 
about  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and  the  half  of  one  of  black  pepper,  turn  them 
once  or  twice  whilst  upon  ^e  gridiron,  which  process  will  keep  the  gravy  in, 
and  when  done  dress  them  immediately  upon  a  dish,  in  which  you  have  put 
the  following  simple  but  excellent  sauce,  which  I  usually  make  over  an 
ordinary  fire ;  put  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  in  a  stewpan  or  iron  saucepan,  with 
half  a  pound  of  firesh  butter  (rather  firm)  cut  into  slices,  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  a  quarter  ditto  of  pepper,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  half  a  table- 
spoonful  of  chopped  parsley ;  set  upon  a  slow  fire,  keep  stirring  quickly  with 
a  wooden  spoon  in  every  direction,  until  becoming  rather  thick,  when 
remove  it  from  the  fire  half  a  minute,  still  stirring,  then  again  upon  the  fire, 
stirring  until  the  butter  is  quite  melted,  but  congealed  with  the  yolks  bf  eggs, 
forming  a  smooth  thickish  sauce  ;  should  it,  however,  be  too  thick,  add  a 
little  milk  or  cream,  and  if  requiring  more  seasoning  add  a  little  pepper  and 
salt,  with  the  juice  of  the  other  half  lemon ;  proceed  the  same  for  rump  st^^ak, 
but  if  for  a  comer  dish,  the  fillet  would  be  preferable,  as  the  steak  would  be 
too  lai^,  appearing  clumsy.  The  above  quantity  would  be  sufficient  for  a 
party  of  ten,  but  a  much  smaller  quantity  might  be  made. 

A  great  improvement  would  be  to  have  four  or  five  middling-sized  potatoes, 
peeled,  cut  in  quarters  lengthwise,  and  afterwards  into  thin  slices  crosswise ; 
have  ready  upon  the  fire  a  stewpan,  containing  lard  or  dripping,  when  hot 


676  KITCHEN  AT  HOME. 

(which  jaa  may  peroeiTe  by  the  smoke  aruing  from  it,  or  by  thnywinga  drop 
of  water  in,  if  sufficieatly  hot  it  will  hiss  and  snap),  pat  in  the  slices  of 
potatoes,  and  firy  aboat  ten  minutes  until  crisp,  and  a  very  light  brovn 
colour ;  care  must  be  taken  that  the  fat  is  not  too  hot,  or  the  potmtoea  woold 
be  burnt  heion  they  were  sufficiently  cooked. 

Anothar  method  of  frying  potatoes,  although  rather  more  extraTagant,  ii 
yery  simple  and  excellent :  put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  in  a  stewpan  or 
saucepan,  and  when  melted  put  in  twenty  small  new  potatoes,  if  in  seaaon,  or 
potatoes  cut  as  before,  place  orer  a  sharp  fire,  stirring  them  occasionally,  until 
of  a  nice  gdd  colour ;  should  they  absorb  sll  the  butter,  add  a  little  mote, 
when  done  sprinkle  a  little  salt  over,  and  serre  round  the  fillet  or  steak;  this 
may  be  used  m  many  instances  in  the  kitchens  of  the  wealthy. 

No.  148.  A  new  Steak.  Procure  a  piece  of  ribs  of  beef  containing  a  couple 
of  bones,  from  which  detach  the  meat,  and  cut  three  steaks  leng^wiae,  beat 
lightly  with  the  cutlet-bat,  trim  a  little,  broil  one  or  two,  seasoning  them  well, 
and  serve  with  sauce  and  fried  potatoes  as  before. 

No.  149.  Fillet  or  Steak  it  la  Midtre  d'HSteL  Cut,  trim,  and  bnni  the 
fillet  or  steaks,  from  either  the  rump  or  ribs  of  beef,  as  before  (always 
oyer  a  sharp  fire^ ;  place  them  upon  your  dish,  haye  ready  two  ounces  of 
butter,  with  which  you  haye  mixed  a  saltspoonfUl  of  salt,  a  quarter  ditto 
of  white  pepper,  one  of  chopped  parsley,  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  rub 
all  oyer  the  stetdcs,  turning  them  three  or  four  times,  the  butter  mixing  with 
the  grayy  forms  an  admmble  sauce ;  serye  with  fried  potatoes  round  as 
before. 

The  aboye  steaks  or  fillets  are  also  yery  excellent  broiled  as  aboye,  and 
seryed  with  anchoyy  butter  (page  33),  instead  of  the  butter  prepared  as  last 
directed,  and  using  one  ounce  instead  of  two. 

Should  any  of  the  aboye  steaks  be  required  plain  broiled,  to  giye  them  an 
extra  zest,  sprinkle  chopped  eschalots  in  addition  to  the  other  seasoning  oyer 
preyious  to  placing  them  upon  the  gridiron  ;  a  steak  cut  of  the  ordinary  size, 
would  require  ten  minutes  broOing  oyer  a  good  fire.  Mutton  and  lamb  chop^ 
or  eyen  cotelettes,  are  yery  good  dressed  in  the  before-mentioned  manners ;  s 
little  glaze,  if  handy,  is  also  an  improyement.  For  mutton  chops,  a  little 
Haryey  sauce  and  Cluli  yinegar  poured  over  just  before  taking  from  the  gridiron 
renders  them  yery  beautiful  eating. 

No.  150.  A  new  Mutton  or  Lamb  Chop.  Haying  preyiously  and  success- 
fully introduced  a  new  joint  (the  saddle-back),  I  thought  I  would  also  intro- 
duce a  new  form  of  mutton  or  lamb  chops,  and  adopted  the  following  one,  as 
represented  in  the  engraying,  which  is  not  only  yery  noyel,  but  the  manner  in 
which  the  chops  are  cut,  by  jagging  the  meat,  causes  them  to  eat  much  lighter 
and  better,  they  being  sawed  off  the  saddle  instead  of  cut  from  the  loin : 
proceed  as  follows : 

Trim  a  middling-sized  saddle  of  mutton,  which  cut  into  chops,  half  an  inch 
in  thickness,  with  a  saw,  without  at  all  making  use  of  a  kmfe ;  then  trim 
to  the  shape  represented  in  the  drawing ;  season  well  with  salt  and  pepper, 
place  upon  a  gridiron  oyer  a  sharp  fire,  turning  them  three  or  four  times, 
they  will  require  about  ten  minutes  cooking ;  when  done  place  them  upon 
a  dish,  spread  a  small  piece  of  fresh  butter  (if  approyed  of)  oyer  each, 
and  serye.     The  bone  keeping  the  grayy  in  whilst  cooking,  is  a  yeiy 


KITCHEN  AT  HOME.  677 

smtadTsnUge  in  having  chops  cut  after  the  above  method.  At  home,  when 
I  have  a  saddle  of  mutton,  I  uanallj  cut  three  or  four  such  chops  from  it,  coolc 
and  nib  maltre  dlidtel  butter  OTer,  and  serve  them  with  fHed  potatoes  round, 
using  the  remainder  of  the  saddle  as  a  joiut  the  next  day. 


Z 


The  above  are  also  excellent  seasoned,  dipped  into  e^s,  and  bread-crumbed 
previous  to  broiling ;  for  Iamb  chops  proceed  precisely  the  same,  only  broiling 
tbem  a  few  minutes  less. 

No.  151.  Feal  Cutlet*.  Cut  four  cutlets  from  the  neck,  half  an  inch  in 
thickness,  beat  lightly  with  a  chopper,  and  cut  off  the  chine-bones,  season 
them  well ;  have  a  couple  of  eggs  well  beaten  upon  a  plate,  into  which  dip 
them,  then  iuto  bread-crumbs,  take  out,  pat  gently  wiu  a  knife,  and  brou 
rather  more  than  ten  minutes  upon  a  griairon  over  a  good  fire,  turning  occa- 
sionallv,  keeping  them  of  a  very  light  brawn  colour ;  dress  upon  a  dish, 
-ireadtng  a  piece  of  the  maitre  d'hAtel  butter  over  each,  tnmiug  them  two  or 

iree  times  in  the  dish,  and  Bcning  very  hot.  Veal  cuUets  are  also  very  good 
served  with  the  new  sauce  as  for  flUeta  of  beef  oi  steaks,  and  the  fried  potatoes 
around  them. 

No.  152.  Pork  CAopt.  Take  four  chops  from  a  loin  of  pork,  each  about 
half  an  inch  in  thickness,  best  them  lightly,  trim,  season  well  with  pepper 
and  salt,  broil  nearly  a  quarter  of  an  hour  over  a  good  fire,  and  serve  very  hot 
upon  a  dish,  with  or  wiuout  apple-sauce  in  a  boat. 

No.  153.  Fork  or  Feal  Chopa  Fried.  Put  one  ounce  of  butter  in  a  saut^. 
or  frying-pan,  rub  over  the  bottom,  lay  In  four  chops,  well  seasoned  as  in 
either  of  the  last  two  ;  place  the  pan  over  a  moderate  fire,  when  the  chops 
become  coloured  upon  one  side  turn  them  over,  the^  will  require  turning  two 
or  three  times  before  done;  when  done,  and  of  a  uce  colour,  take  them  out, 
and  place  upon  a  dish ;  put  a  ^onful  of  chopped  onions  in  the  jpan,  which 
fry  until  becoming  of  a  brownish  colour,  then  t^e  off  as  much  of  the  fat  as 
possible,  add  a  teaepoonful  of  fiour  (mix  well  with  a  wooden  spoon),  and 
moisten  with  half  a  pint  of  water ;  stir  quickly,  add  a  bay-leaf,  and  when 
boiling  season  with  tislf  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  two  of  salt,  one  of  sugar,  and 
two  spoonfuls  of  vinegar,  stir  over  the  fire  until  forming  a  sauce,  when  again 
lay  in  the  chops,  let  simmer  five  minutes,  dress  the  chops  upon  a  dish,  add 
two  chopped  gherkins  to  the  sauce,  which  pour  over  ana  serve ;  a  little  brown 
colouring  (No.  146)  added  to  the  sauce  would  improve  their  appearance. 


1 


678  KITCHEN  AT  HOME. 

No.  1 54 .  Hashed  Beef  is  made  from  any  description  of  roast  beef.  It  may 
alao  be  made  horn  stewed,  but  roaat  is  pr^erable.  Cut  about  a  pomidaDd  a 
half  of  meat  into  thin  slioea,  uaing  a  small  quantity  of  the  fat ;  lay  them  upon 
a  dish,  sprinkle  a  spoonful  of  flour,  a  teaspoonfol  of  salt,  and  a  quarter  ^tto 
of  pepper,  place  the  meat  in  a  stewpan,  moisten  with  half  a  pint  of  water  or 
light  broth,  if  handy  ;  add  a  little  colouring  (No.  146)  to  give  a  nice  brown 
colour,  place  it  upon  the  fire,  allowing  it  to  warm  gently,  stirring  occasionally, 
simmenng  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  taste  if  requiring  more  seasoning,  if  so  add 
a  little  and  serve  rery  hot  immediately.  In  making  a  hash  of  any  de- 
scription, avoid  having  to  keep  it  hot  as  much  as  possible,  or  it  would  become 
greasy,  and  likewise  prevent  the  hash  boiling  over  the  fire,  which  would 
cause  the  meat  to  eat  hard  and  tough.  If  the  beef  has  been  well  roasted,  as 
described  (page  639),  the  remainder,  being  underdone,  makes  an  excellent 
and  very  nutritious  hash. 

To  vary  any  description  of  hash,  it  may  be  served  upon  a  laige  pieoe  of 
buttered  toast,  or  half  a  spoonful  of  chopped  onions  may  be  added  with  the 
flour  and  seasoning ;  chopped  parsley  may  also  be  added  with  a  spoonful  of 
catsup^  two  of  Harvey  sauce,  two  of  vinegar,  or  one  of  Chili  vinegar ;  four 
nice  green  gherkins  in  slices  may  also  be  added  at  the  time  of  serving.  Some 
fresh  mushrooms  from  the  fields,  cleaned,  and  stewed  in  the  hash,  is  also  a 
great  improvement,  a  bay-leaf  ako  added  imparts  a  pleasant  flavour.  A  little 
meat  left  upon  the  bones,  well  peppered  and  broiled,  are  frequently  served 
with  the  hash. 

No.  155,  Remaine  of  Salt  Bee/,  although  very  good  cold,  in  winter  is  very 
desirable  made  hot ;  one  of  the  best  methods  of  ooing  which  is  to  convert  it 
into  that  old-fashioned  dish  entitled  bubble-and-squeak ;  the  beef  should  be, 
as  usual,  rather  underdone,  and  cut  into  slices  not  thicker  than  a  five-shilling 
piece,  then  put  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saut^  or  frying-pan,  when  melted 
lay  in  the  beef,  which  place  over  a  quick  fire,  frying  both  sides  of  a  yellowish 
brown  colour,  when  take  them  out  upon  a  dish,  keeping  them  hot ;  vou  have 
previously  boiled  six  or  eight  greens  or  one  Savoy  cabbage,  which  chop  fine, 
season  with  four  saltspoonfuls  of  salt  and  one  of  black  pepper,  place  in  the 
same  pan  you  fried  the  beef  in  over  the  fire,  keep  turning  them  over  until 
quite  hot,  when  dress  upon  a  dish  with  the  beef  over,  and  serve.  A  few  slices 
of  fat  ought  to  be  fried  with  the  beef. 

Another  way  of  warming  salt  beef,  is  to  cut  slices  aud  lay  in  a  pan  with 
just  sufficient  water  to  cover  them  ;  place  over  the  fire,  add  about  an  ounce  of 
fresh  butter  mixed  with  a  little  flour,  a  little  Harvey  sauce,  and  a  piece  of 
glaze  about  the  size  of  a  walnut,  if  handy.  Another  way  would  be  to  lay  the 
slices  in  a  saut^  or  frying-pan  well  buttered,  place  over  the  fire  and  fry  a  light 
brown  colour,  pour  ofi*  as  much  of  the  fat  as  possible,  add  a  quarter  of  a  pint 
of  water,  and  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a  walnut,  with  which  you  have 
mixed  half  a  teaspoonful  of  flour,  shake  round  over  the  fire  a  minute  or  two, 
add  twQ  spoonfuls  of  piccalilly  cut  in  slices,  two  ditto  of  the  liquor,  and  one 
of  the  colouring  (No.  146),  and  serve  over  when  ready. 

No.  156,  Ox  Tails  en  Currie,  Have  ready  some  ox  tails  dressed  as 
described  in  page  273  (they  will  keep  several  days  in  a  basin  covered  with 
their  own  stock),  when  wanted  warm  them  in  their  stock,  cut  four  onions 
into  very  thin  sUces,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
butter,  fry  over  a  slow  fire  until  the  onions  become  brown  and  pulpy,  when 


KITCHEN  AT  HOME.  679 

add  a  nicdy  boiled  mealy  potato  (peeled),  a  tablespoonfol  of  currie-powder, 
and  one  of  currie-paate,  or  one  and  a  half  of  the  powder,  mix  all  well  together, 
moisten  with  three  parts  of  a  pint  of  the  stock  from  the  tails ;  then  add  the 
tails,  stirring  them  round  gently  until  well  covered  with  the  sauce,  set  over  a 
slow  fire  to  stew  very  slowly  for  half  an  hour,  moving  them  round  occasion- 
ally, finish  with  a  little  salt  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon ;  dress  upon  a  dish 
pyramidically,  pour  the  sauce,  which  must  be  rather  thick,  over,  and  serve 
with  rice  boiled  as  directed  (page  5 1)  upon  a  separate  dish. 

Another  way,  for  a  change,  would  be  to  introduce  four  very  ripe  tomatas  at 
the  same  time  with  the  potato  and  currie-powder,  omitting  the  lemon-juice, 
and  adding  half  a  teaspoonful  of  suear.  A  tablespoon^  of  currie-paste 
added  to  any  description  of  hash  would  convert  it  into  a  very  good  currie. 

No.  157.  Ragout  of  Ox  Tails.  Gut  two  ox  tails  into  pieces  two  inches  in 
length,  rub  two  ounces  of  butter  over  the  bottom  of  a  convenient-sized  stew- 
pan,  place  in  the  pieces  of  tails,  with  half  a  pound  of  streaked  bacon  cut  into 
.square  pieces  the  size  of  walnuts,  place  over  a  moderate  fire,  stirring  occa- 
sionally until  nicely  browned,  but  not  in  the  least  burnt,  add  two  ounces  of 
flour  (mix  well)  and  three  pints  of  water ;  when  boiling  and  half  cooked  add 
a  bunch  of  parsley,  with  two  bay-leaves,  twenty  young  carrots,  or  pieces  of 
old  ones,  and  twentjr  button  onions,  season  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  half 
ditto  of  sugar,  and  a  quarter  ditto  of  pepper ;  let  simmer  until  the  tails  and 
vegetables  are  quite  tender,  keeping  well  skimmed,  when  take  out  and  dress 
them  in  pyramid  upon  mashed  potatoes,  garnish  round  with  the  v^etables, 
pass  the  sauce  through  a  hair  sieve  into  another  stewpan,  place  over  the  fire, 
stir  with  a  wooden  spoon  until  adhering  to  the  back,  when  pour  over  the 
tails,  and  serve  very  hot. 

No.  158.  Ox  Cheeks  are  very  delicate  when  well  stewed,  and  may  be  pur- 
chased very  cheap ;  they  require  soaking  aU  night,  and  about  six  hours  to  blanch 
in  salt  water,  until  the  flesh  will  detach  easily  from  the  bone,  when  take 
it  out,  remove  the  bone,  place  some  onion,  carrot,  and  turnip,  in  slices,  in  a 
large  flat  stewpan,  with  a  piece  of  bacon,  a  few  sprigs  of  thyme,  parsley,  and 
two  bay-leaves,  cover  with  a  little  stock  (if  any)  or  water,  place  the  flesh  from 
the  cheek  over,  put  in  a  moderate  oven  until  very  tender,  when  take  up,  dress 
upon  a  dish,  and  serve  with  a  sharp  sauce  over. 

Ox  cheeks  may  also  be  served  in  currie,  or  converted  into  a  ragout  after 
blanchine,  as  directed  for  ox  tails. 

Should  you  happen  to  have  the  remains  of  a  f^sh  ox  tongue,  it  would  be 
very  good  cut  in  slices,  warmed,  and  served  with  a  sharp  sauce,  or  hashed ; 
the  remains  of  a  pickled  one  may  be  used  in  any  little  made  dish  of  veal,  or 
poultry,  hereafter  described ;  to  some  persons  it  is,  however,  preferable  cold. 

No.  159.  Ox  Kidneys  are  very  good  for  breakfast  or  luncheon ;  cut  the 
kidneys  into  thin  slices,  avoitfling  the  piece  in  the  centre,  put  two  ounces  of 
butter  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  little  chopped  eschalots,  place  over  the  fire ;  when 
becoming  a  little  browned  add  the  kidneys,  which  keep  stirring  for  five  minutes 
still  over  the  fire,  add  half  a  tablespoonfid  of  flour  (mix  wel^,  two  glasses  of 
sherry,  two  of  water,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  quarter  ditto  of  pepper,  one 
of  chopped  parslev,  and  a  bay-leaf,  let  simmer  gently  five  minutes,  not,  how- 
ever, to  boil,  or  they  would  become  hard  and  indigestible ;  should  the  sauce 
be  too  thin  add  a  litde  butter  and  flour  mixed  together,  it  requires  to  be  8uf&* 


680  KiTCH£N  AT  HOME. 

ciently  thick  to  eavelope  the  kidneys ;  when  done  poor  out  upon  a  dish,  and 
serve  very  hot.  A  few  raw  mushrooms  stewed  with  the  kimieys  is  alao-  a 
great  improvement. 

A  hullock*s  heart  is  a  favorite  dish  with  some  pcnons  ;  soak  aa  hoar  in 
lukewarm  water  to  disgorge,  dry,  and  stuff  the  interior  with  a  good  veal 
stufi&ng,  roast  an  hour  and  a  half  before  a  moderate  fire,  and  serve  very  hot, 
with  a  little  veal  sauce  (see  page  647)  around ;  prooeed  the  same  for  ealwem' 
or  8heep*B  hearts,  but  of  course  they  will  require  less  time. 

No.  160.  Cal/*M  Head.  Should  yoo  have  any  left  fh)m  a  previous  dinner 
it  may  be  dressed  in  various  ways.  To  hash  calf's  head^  cut  mto  good  slioea 
not  too  thin,  or  it  would  have  a  bad  appearance ;  put  a  spooolid  of  diopped 
ouions  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  wineglassful  of  vinegar,  six  peppercorns,  a  sprig 
of  thyme,  abayJeaf,  a  piece  of  glaze  the  size  of  a  walnut,  and  a  gill  of  broth, 
reduce  to  half  over  the  fire,  then  add  the  slices  of  calf's  head  and  a  gill  more 
broth,  season  with  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  when  quite  hot  through  add  half 
an  ounce  of  butter,  with  whicn  you  have  mixed  a  tablespoonfiil  of  flour,  first 
breaking  it  into  four  or  five  pieces,  shake  round  over  the  fire  until  becomini^ 
a  little  Chickish,  add  a  little  colouring  (No.  146)  to  give  a  light  brown  colour ; 
pour  out  upon  your  dish,  and  serve  with  a  few  slices  of  gherkins  sprinkled 
over. 

Calf  *B  head  may  also  be  cut  in  slices,  wanned,  and  served  with  some  of  the 
sauces  as  directed  for  fillet  of  beef,  or  curried  as  for  the  ox-tails  (No.  156) ; 
hashed  calf's  head,  with  a  couple  of  spoonfuls  of  currie^paste  added,  is  also 
very  excellent. 

No.  161.  Cml/'s  Brains  and  Tongue,  Boil  the  tongue  in  stock  or  water 
until  tender,  lay  the  brains  in  lukewarm  water  to  disgorge,  then  carefully  take 
off  all  the  skin,  put  about  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  batter  in  a  saut^pan,  rub 
all  over  the  bottom,  cut  the  Ivains  in  slices,  li^  them  in  the  pan,  season  with 
a  little  pepper,  salt^  and  lemon-juice,  place  over  a  moderate  fire,  and  when  set 
turn  them  over,  add  about  a  gill  of  melted  butter,  and  a  little  milk,  if  too 
thick,  season  a  little  more  if  required,  shake  the  saute-pan  round,  moving  the 
brains  from  the  bottom,  but  not  breaking  them,  and  pour  upon  a  dish,  skin 
and  trim  the  tongue,  cut  it  in  halves  lengthwise,  glaze  and  serve  dressed  upon 
the  brains.  Sheep  and  lamb's  tongues  and  brams  are  dressed  in  precisely 
the  same  manner  as  the  calf's. 

No.  162.  Veal  Cutlets^  theEngli$h  Method.  Procure  a  piece  of  fillet  of 
veal  weighing  about  four  pounds,  from  which  (to  the  best  advantage)  cut  eight 
or  ten  pieces  of  the  shape  and  size  of  fillets  of  fowl,  season  lightly  with  a  little 
pepper  and  salt,  have  a  couple  of  eggs,  well  beaten,  upon  a  plate,  into  which 
dip  the  cutlets,  and  afterwards  into  bread-crumbs,  beat  lightly ;  then  cut  four 
or  ^ye  slices  of  streaked  bacon,  which  fry  in  a  saut6  or  frying-pan ;  when  done 
take  out  and  lay  in  the  cutlets,  which  fry  of  a  ^^.ce  light  brown  colour,  dress 
the  bacon  and  cutlets  alternately  upon  your  dish,  pour  as  much  fat  as  possible 
out  of  the  pan,  into  which  pour  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  water,  and  the  same  of 
melted  butter ;  boil  until  becoming  rather  thickish,  when  add  a  tablespoonftd 
of  Harvey  sauce,  one  of  catsup,  a  little  colouring  (No.  146),  and  a  little  pepper 
and  salt,  boil  another  second,  pass  through  a  sieve  over  the  cutlets,  and  serve. 
Veal  cutlets  cut  and  fried  as  above  may  also  be  served  upon  some  very  light 
mashed  potatoes,  omitting  the  sauce. 


KITCHEN  AT  HOMB.  681 

No.  163.  Sweetbreads,  I  never  can  procure  sweetbreads  at  home  except 
in  the  aatnmn  or  winter  season  of  the  year,  so  many  families  being  then  out 
of  town,  they  may  be  procured  at  a  very  reasonable  price  ;  I  usually  dress 
them  thus  :  lay  them  in  water  three  or  four  hours  to  disgorge^  blanch  two 
minutes  in  boiling  water,  take  out  and  put  them  into  another  stewpan,  with 
a  few  slices  of  onions,  carrot,  turnip,  a  little  parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf,  six 
peppercorns,  a  blade  of  mace,  and  a  small  piece  of  bacon,  cover  over  with  a 
little  broth  if  any,  place  over  the  fire,  and  let  boil  about  twenty  minutes,  then 
take  out,  dry  them  on  a  cloth,  egg  all  over»  throw  into  bread-crumbs,  run^ 
skewer  through  each,  tie  them  to  a  q)it  and  roast  of  a  nice  brown  colour 
before  a  sharp  fire,  a  quarter  of  an  hour  would  be  sufficient ;  they  might  also 
be  browned  in  a  hot  oven,  or  fried  in  very  hot  lard  or  dripping  ten  minutes ; 
then,  however,  they  must  be  stewed  rather  longer ;  serve  them  with  vegetable 
garniture  of  any  description,  if  peas,  merely  plain  boiling  them,  putting  them 
in  a  stewpan,  with  a  little  sugar,  pepper,  salt,  and  a  piece  of  fresh  butter,  toss 
them  round  over  the  fire  until  very  hot,  pour  them  into  the  dish,  and  dress 
the  sweetbreads  over,  or  serve  with  French  beans  dressed  also  in  the  same 
manner,  spinach  dressed  as  directed  (page  43),  or  merely  with  the  following 
sauce :  put  a  gill  of  melted  butter  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  spoonful  of  Harvey 
or  Reading  sauce,  and  a  little  catsup,  boil  altogether,  and  if  too  thick  add  a 
little  water.  If  I  cannot  meet  with  heart  sweetbreads,  I  in  general  satisfy 
myself  with  the  throats. 

No.  164.  Cal/'s  Liver  Stewed,  French /eehum.  Procure  a  small  delicate 
liver,  cut  twenty  pieces  of  fat  bacon,  three  inches  in  length  and  a  quarter  of 
an  inch  square,  season  with  a  little  pepper,  salt,  and  chopped  parsley,  then 
with  a  larding-needle  run  them  into  the  liver  crosswise,  put  two  ounces  of 
butter  into  a  convenientnsized  stewpan,  with  half  a  pound  of  lean  uncooked 
ham,  keep  stirring  over  a  sharp  fire  until  the  ham  becomes  rather  brownish, 
then  lajin  the  liver,  cover  the  stewpan,  stir  round  occasionally  until  the  liver 
has  become  quite  firm  and  of  a  brownish  colour ;  then  add  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  a  quarter  of  one  of  pepper,  forty  button  onions,  twenty  young 
carrots  (or  twenty  pieces  of  old,  previously  blanched),  half  a  pint  of  water, 
a  bunch  of  parsley,  with  three  sprigs  of  thyme  and  two  bay-leaves  (tied 
together),  four  cloves,  and  a  blade  of  mace,  let  simmer  twenty  minutes ;  then 
add  twenty  new  potatoes,  or  old  ones  cut  of  the  same  size,  cover  the  stewpan, 
and  let  stew  gently  until  all  the  vegetables  are  done,  when  take  out  the  bunch 
of  herbs,  dress  the  liver  upon  a  dish,  with  the  vegetables  and  ham  around  it, 
skim  all  the  fat  from  the  gravy  in  the  stewpan,  pour  over  the  vegetables  and 
serve ;  if  any  remain,  it  is  excellent  made  hot  the  next  day,  or  even  to  be 
eaten  cold^ 

No.  165.  Calf* 8  Liver  Fried.  Cut  the  liver  into  slices  the  eighth  of  an 
inch  in  thickness,  dip  them  in  flour,  and  fry  them  in  a  saut^  or  frying-pan,  in 
which  you  have  previously  fried  some  slices  of  streaked  bacon,  fry  the  liver 
until  quite  browned  and  rather  crisp,  when  take  out  and  place  it  upon  a  dish 
with  the  bacon,  pour  as  much  of  the  fat  as  possible  from  the  pan,  pour  in  a 
quarter  of  a  pint  of  water,  when  boiling  add  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a 
walnut,  with  which  you  have  mixed  a  teaspoonful  of  flour,  shake  the  pan 
round  over  the  fire  until  becoming  rather  thickish,  season  with  a  little  Harvey 
sauce,  catsup,  pepper,  and  salt,  if  too  thick  add  a  little  more  water,  pour  over 
the  liver  and  serve.     Or,  for  variation,  after  the  liver  is  well  fried,  take  it  out 


682  KITCHEN  AT  HOMK. 

and  pat  a  tablespoonftil  of  chopped  onioiu  in  the  pan,  set  upon  tke  lore  a 
minute,  then  pour  off  the  greater  part  of  the  fat,  add  a  teaapoonfiil  of  lloin; 
mix  well  in,  and  half  a  pint  of  hroth  or  water,  boil  until  forming  a  thickiih 
aanoe,  season  with  pepper,  salt,  two  spoonfols  of  vinegar,  a  little  sugar,  and 
half  a  teaapoonfcd  of  mixed  miutard,  set  npon  the  fire  until  quite  hot,  po«r 
over  the  liverand  serre.  Or  liver  may  be  served  plain  fried  with  bacon,  with- 
out any  sauce  whatever.  Sheep  or  lamb's  liver  may  be  dressed  preciadj  in 
the  same  manner. 

With  the  remains  of  a  joint  of  veal,  either  roasted,  boiled,  or  braised,  I 
make  mince,  hashes,  blanquettes,  and  even  pies.     For  a  blanquette  of  veal 
cut  about  a  pound  into  thin  slices  of  the  sixe  of  half-crown-pieces,  add  alao  a 
few  slices  of  cooked  tongue,  ham,  or  streaked  bacon,  season  well  with  about 
a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  onions,  half  ditto  of  salt,  and  a  quarter  ditto  of 
white  pepper,  add  a  gUl  of  broth  or  water,  warm  gently,  and  when  quite  hot 
add  a  piece  of  butter  the  sixe  of  a  walnut,  with  which  you  have  mixed  a  tea- 
spoonrol  of  flour,  shake  round  over  the  fire,  when  becoming  thickish  add  half 
a  gill  of  nulk  or  cream,  with  which  you  have  mixed  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  stir 
in  quickly,  add  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  serve  (it  must  not  boil  after  the 
egg  and  cream  have  been  added)  with  triangular  pieces  of  toasted  or  fined 
bread  round.     A  blanquette  of  lamb  made  in  the  same  manner  is  equally  good. 
With  the  bones  you  may  make  a  little  stock  by  chopping  them  up  into  small 
pieces,  and  putting  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  an  omon  in  slices,  a  bay-leaC 
bunch  of  parsley,  and  a  little  raw  hun,  add  water  according  to  the  quantity 
of  bones,  and  boil  rather  more  than  half  an  hour,  convert  it  into  sauce  by 
thickening  with  a  little  butter  and  flour,  and  use  for  hash ;  to  make  which  cut 
the  meat  into  small  thin  shces,  put  into  a  stewpan,  with  sufficient  of  the  above 
sauce  to  moisten  it,  let  simmer  ten  minutes,  add  two  spoonfuls  of  vin^^  and 
four  gherkins  in  slices,  season  with  a  little  white  pepper  and  salt ;  pour  upon 
your  dish  and  serve. 

No.  166.  Mmced  Veal  and  Foamed Egg9  are  also  a  very  favorite  dish;  from 
the  remains  of  veal  cut  about  a  pound  of  the  lean,  with  a  little  of  the  fat,  and 
two  ounces  of  cooked  ham  into  very  small  dice,  put  a  tablespoonfnl  of  chopped 
onions  into  a  stewpan,  with  half  an  ounce  of  butter,  place  over  the  fire,  keep 
stirring  until  the  onions  change  colour  slightly,  then  stir  in  a  tablespoonfnl  of 
flour,  moisten  with  half  a  pint  of  stock  or  milk,  let  boil  ten  minutes,  add  tiie 
mince,  season  well  with  white  pepper  and  salt,  when  quite  hot  stir  in  a  y<^ 
of  egg,  mixed  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  or  milk,  do  not  let  boil  after- 
wards, finish  with  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  pour  upon  your  dish  ;  have 
ready  poached  six  eggs,  by  having  a  stewpan  upon  the  fire  with  one  quart  of 
water,  quarter  of  an  oauce  of  salt,  and  a  quarter  of  a  gUl  of  vinegar,  when 
boiling  break  in  six  eggs  separately,  let  boil  from  three  to  four  minutes,  draw 
off  the  fire,  take  them  out  with  a  colander  spoon,  drain  a  moment  upon  a 
cloth,  dress  upon  the  mince,  pour  a  little  melted  butter  over  each,  and  serve 
with  triangular  pieces  of  Med  bread  round. 

Minced  lamb,  beef,  or  mutton  is  done  the  same,  using  stock  or  water  instead 
of  milk,  and  letting  the  onions  with  the  thickening  become  a  little  brown 
over  the  fire,  likewise  omit  the  yolk  of  ef^  and  cream,  serve  with  the  eggs 
precisely  the  same ;  any  kind  of  mince  must  be  rather  thick  that  the  eggs  may 
rest  on  it.  By  finishing  the  minced  veal  with  the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  stirring 
a  moment  over  the  fire  until  set,  and  pouring  upon  a  dish  until  cold,  you 
can  serve  it  in  any  shaped  croquettes  you  please,  taking  pieces  from  it  of 


KITCHEN  AT  HOME.  ft88 

the  iise  yon  may  require,  shining  them  with  a  knife,  dipping  twice  into  eg^ 
and  bread-crumbs,  patting  them  gently,  firying  a  light  brown  colour  in  a  stew- 
pan  of  hot  lard  or  dripping,  and  serring  upon  a  napkin  garnished  with  fiied 
parsley ;  they  may  be  maide  in  oblong  shapes,  the  size  and  length  of  small 
sausages,  and  fried  as  above :  they  are  then  eedled  boudins. 

Patties  may  also  be  made  from  cooked  veal,  preparing  a  blanquette  a^ 
before  described,  and  leaving  it  upon  a  dish  until  cold  ;  line  six  large  patty- 
pans very  thinly  with  half  puff  paste  (see  page  480),  lay  some  of  the  veal  in 
the  centre  of  each,  sprinkle  a  httle  water  over,  and  cover  with  sheets  of  the 
same  paste  of  the  thickness  of  a  five-shilling  piece,  egg  over,  crimp  the  edges 
a  little  with  a  knife,  place  a  leaf  of  paste  upon  the  top  of  each,  and  bake 
about  twenty  minutes  in  a  very  hot  oven  until  the  paste  is  well  done. 

The  remaus  of  poultry,  game,  or  any  other  description  of  meat,  may  also 
be  converted  into  patties  in  the  same  method  as  above. 

The  remains  of  meat  dressed  as  for  the  above  patties  is  also  very  excellent 
for  larger  pies,  filling  the-  dish  with  it,  when  cold  covering  with  paste,  and 
baking  in  a  rather  warm  oven. 

No.  167*  Mutton  Chttletg  SaaitS*.  Cut  dght  cutlets  j&om  a  neck  of 
mutton,  as  directed .  (page  294),  and  put  them  into  a  saut6-pan,  with  an 
ounce  of  butter,  season  well  with  pepper  and  salt,  place  over  the  fire,  when 
becoming  a  little  browned  turn  them  over,  when  firm  to  the  touch  they  are 
done  (which  will  take  about  ten  minutes)  ;  take  up  and  dress  them  upon  your 
dish,  pour  as  much  of  the  fat  as  possible  from  the  pan,  add  a  quarter  of  a 
pint  of  water  or  broth,  let  boil  until  becoming  a  thin  glaze,  add  a  little  sugar 
and  a  spoonful  of  Harvey  sauce,  pour  over  the  cutlets  and  serve.  Should 
you  want  a  thick  sauce  you  can  obtain  it  by  adding  a  small  piece  of  butter, 
with  which  you  have  mixed  a  little  flour,  to  the  gravy  in  the  saute-pan,  adding 
also  a  little  colouring  (No.  146). 

No.  168.  Mutton  Cutlet*  Saut^Sy  with  Vegetables,  Dress  the  cutlets  as  in 
the  last,  have  some  vegetables  of  all  kinds  (that  is,  carrots,  turnips,  artichokes, 
and  button  onions),  cut  up  small,  stew  them  in  a  little  broth  with  a  little 
sugar  until  tender,  when  pour  them  into  the  saut^-pan  you  cooked  the  cutlets 
in,  reduce  until  the  stock  becomes  a  thin  glaze,  then  dress  the  vegetables  in 
the  centre  of  the  cutlets,  sauce  over,  and  serve. 

No.  169.  Mutton  Cutlets,  Irish  Method,  Cut  eight  or  ten  mutton  cutlets, 
season  well  with  pepper  and  salt,  place  them  in  a  stewpan,  just  cover  them 
with  water,  let  simmer  gently  twenty  minutes,  then  add  forty  button  onions, 
and  as  many  pieces  of  potatoes,  cut  with  a  scoop  in  pieces  a  size  laiger ;  stew 
until  tender,  dress  the  cutlets  in  a  circle  upon  your  dish,  with  the  vegetables 
in  the  centre,  skim  off  some  of  the  fat  from  the  stock  in  the  saut^pan,  reduce 
a  little,  sauce  over,  and  serve. 

No.  170.  Mutton  Cutlets  Broiled,  Cut  eight  or  ten  cutlets,  season  well 
with  pepper  and  salt,  dip  them  into  eggs,  then  into  bread-crumbs,  beat  gently 
with  a  knife,  have  a  little  butter  in  a  stewpan,  which  melt  over  Uie  fire ;  dip 
each  cutlet  into  the  butter,  and  again  into  bread-crumbs,  beat  again  lightly, 
place  them  upon  a  gridiron  over  a  moderate  fire ;  when  lightly  coloured  upon 
one  side  turn  them  over ;  they  will  require  about  ten  minutes  to  cook  dio- 
roughly ;  serve  plain  dressed  upon  your  dish. 


684  KITCHEN  AT  HOMX. 

Dressed  as  al>ove  they  may  likewise  be  served  with  a  maitre  d'h6ftdL 
made  thus :  pot  half  a  piat  of  melted  batter  into  a  stewpan  with  a  piece  of 
glaxe  the  size  of  a  walnut,  when  boiling  add  two  otmoes  of  midtre  d'hdtel 
batter  (see  p.  33),  shake  the  stewpan  round  over  the  fire ;  when  quite  hot  poor 
in  the  dish  with  the  cutlets,  have  ready  some  thin  slices  of  potatoes  fiied  as 
for  the  fillet  of  beef,  dress  in  pyramid  in  the  centre,  and  serve. 

No.  171.  Mutton  Cutlet*  Harricoed.  Cut  ten  cutlets  firom  a  neck  of 
mutton,  leaving  them  rather  short,  not  beating  them  flat,  and  taking  off  some 
of  the  fat ;  put  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  lay  in  the  cutlets,  which 
well  season  with  P^PP^  <uid  m^^  ;  ^  upon  a  moderate  fire,  turning  them  round 
occasionally  untu  of  a  lightish  brown  colour,  then  add  a  good  spoonful  of 
flour;  mix  well,  and  moisten  with  a  quart  of  water,  keep  stirmig  until  boiling, 
throw  in  twenty  small  onions,  twenty  small  pieces  of  carrots,  and  the  same 
of  turnips  (each  about  the  sise  of  walnuts),  and  a  small  bunch  of  parsley,  with 
two  bay-leaves;  let  simmer  until  the  vegetables  are  done,  skim  well,  take 
out  the  cutlets,  which  dress  in  crown  upon  a  dish,  place  the  vegetables  in  the 
centre,  reduce  the  sauce  if  required,  which  pour  over  and  serve.  Should  it  be 
convenient,  it  would  be  as  well  to  pass  the  vegetables  by  putting  about  a 
quarter  of  an  ounce  of  powdered  sugar  into  a  stewpan;  place  over  the  ^re, 
and  when  melted  add  two  ounces  of  butter  and  the  vegetables,  which  keep 
tossing  over  the  fire  until  covered  with  a  kind  of  glace,  when  put  them  into 
the  stewpan  with  the  cutlets  ;  it  gives  the  harrico  quite  a  peculiar  and  good 
flavour. 

No.  172.  Ragout  of  Mutton  en  Currie.  Peel  and  slice  four  large  onions, 
which  put  into  a  stewpan  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  place  over  a  moderate 
fire,  and  when  becoming  lightly  browned  and  pulpy  lay  in  ten  cutlets  as  in  the 
last ;  move  round  occasionally  until  a  little  brown,  when  add  a  good  spoonful 
of  currie-powder  and  the  half  of  one  of  flour;  mix  well,  moisten  with  a  pint 
of  water,  let  simmer  twenty  minutes,  or  until  the  mutton  is  quite  tender, 
finish  with  a  little  sugar,  sidt,  and  lemon-juice,  take  out  the  cutlets,  which 
dress  in  circle  upon  a  dish,  have  ready  some  boiled  rice  (p.  51)  very  hot, 
which  dress  in  pyramid  in  the  centre ;  pass  the  sauce  through  a  tammie,  pour 
over  the  cutlets,  and  serve. 

No.  173.  Mutton  Currie.  Peel  and  slice  four  large  onions  as  in  the  last, 
fry  the  same,  have  ready  two  pounds  of  lean  mutton  cut  into  square  pieces  the 
size  of  walnuts,  put  into  the  stewpan  with  the  fried  onions ;  let  remain  tos 
minutes  over  the  fire,  stirring  frequently,  then  add  a  tablespoonf nl  of  currie- 
powder  and  one  of  currie-paste ;  mix  well  in,  let  remain  over  a  slow  fire  until 
the  mutton  is  tender,  season  with  a  little  salt  and  lemon-juice,  pour  out  upon 
your  dish,  and  serve  with  boiled  rice  separate. 

Lamb  cutlets  are  dressed  precisely  as  the  mutton ;  but  when  bread-crumbed 
and  broiled  they  are  very  good  served  with  peas  or  French  beans,  previously 
boiled,  and  placed  in  a  stewpan  with  an  ounce  of  fresh  butter,  a  little  pe|^per, 
salt,  and  sugar ;  when  quite  hot  stir  in  half  a  giU  of  cream,  with  which  you 
have  well  mixed  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  stir  in  quickly,  pour  out  upon  your  dish, 
dress  the  cutlet  over,  and  serve. 

No.  174.  Pork  Cutlets  SautSs,  Cut  six  or  eight  good-sized  cutlets  from 
the  neck,  of  tbe  same  shape  as  the  mutton,  lay  them  in  a  buttered  saut6-pau, 


KITCHEN  AT  HOKE.  685 

season  well  with  pepper  and  salt,  place  oyer  the  fire ;  when  done  lay  them 
upon  a  plate»  pour  some  of  the  &t  from  the  saatd-pan,  add  a  good  table- 
spoonful  of  chopped  onions,  pass  over  the  fire  a  minute,  then  add  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  flour ;  moisten  with  half  a  pint  of  broth  or  water,  with  a  piece  of 
glaze  added,  season  a  little  more,  add  a  bay-leaf  and  a  teaspoonful  of  yinegar, 
with  one  of  mustard,  mix  well,  lay  in  the  cutlets  until  quite  hot,  when  dress 
upon  a  dish,  sauce  over,  and  serve.  This  sauce  is  good  with  any  kind  of 
cutlets,  but  especially  pork. 

No.  175.  Fork  CutleU  aux  Carmeharu,  Cut  six  or  eight  cutlets  fh>m  a 
middling-sized  neck  of  pork,  season  weU  with  pepper  and  salt,  dip  in  eggs 
well  beaten  upon  a  plate,  and  then  into  grated  crust  of  bread  (not  too  brown)  ; 
put  two  ounces  of  lard  or  butter  into  a  saut^  or  frying-pan,  lay  in  the  cutlets 
and  fry  very  slowly ;  when  done  place  them  upon  a  dish ;  keep  hot,  pour 
some  of  the  fiit  from  the  pan,  add  a  good  teaspoonful  of  flour,  mix  well, 
moisten  with  half  a  pint  of  broth  or  water  with  a  piece  of  glaze,  add<4ia]f  a 
wineglassful  of  vinegar,  a  little  salt,  pepper,  and  six  gherkins  in  slices,  place 
the  cutlets  in  the  pan  to  warm  gently  in  the  sauce,  then  dress  them  upon  a 
dish,  sauce  over,  and  serve. 

No.  176.  Pork  CutletSy  Sauee  derni  Robert.  Cut  eight  cutlets  from  a  neck 
as  before,  season  well  with  pepper  and  salt,  sprinkle  chopped  onions  and 
parsley  over  upon  both  sides,  beating  the  cutlets  lightly  to  make  them  adhere, 
then  dip  them  into  eggs  well  beaten  upon  a  plate,  and  then  into  bread- 
crumbs ;  pat  them  lightly,  have  some  danfied  butter  in  a  stewpan,  into  which 
dip  the  cutlets,  and  again  into  bread-crumbs,  well  covering  them,  place  them 
upon  a  gridiron  over  a  moderate  fire,  broiling  a  nice  light  brown  colour ;  when 
done  dj^s  them  upon  a  dish.  Have  ready  the  foUowing  sauce :  cut  two  large 
onions  into  very  small  dice,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  witili  an  ounce  of  butter, 
fry  of  a  light  yellow  colour,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  flour,  mix  well^^moisten  with 
half  a  pint  of  broth  and  two  spoonfuls  of  vinegar,  season  well,  let  boil,  skim, 
and  reduce,  until  rather  thick,  when  add  a  spoonful  of  mixed  mustard,  one  of 
colouring  (No.  146) ;  sauce  in  the  centre  of  the  cutlets  and  serve. 

No.  177*  Hashed  Pork.  Put  two  spoonfuls  of  chopped  onions  into  a 
stewpan  with  a  wineglassful  of  vinegar,  two  cloves,  a  blade  of  mace,  and  a 
bay-leaf^  reduce  to  half,  take  out  the  spice  and  bay-leaf,  add  half  a  piat  of 
broth  or  water,  cut  some  pork  previously  cooked  into  thin  small  slices,  season 
well  upon  a  dish  with  pepper  and  salt,  shake  a  good  teaspoonful  of  flour 
over,  mix  all  together,  and  put  into  the  stewpan ;  let  simmer  gently  ten 
minutes,  pour  out  upon  your  dish,  and  serve  with  slices  of  gherkins  in  it ;  a 
little  mustard  may  be  added  if  approved  of,  or  a  little  piccalilly  with  the 
vinegar  is  excellent. 

The  remains  of  salt  pork,  though  very  palatable  cold,  if  required  hot  may 
be  cut  into  large  thin  slices,  and  placed  in  a  buttered  saut6  or  frying-pan, 
with  a  little  broth,  or  merely  fried  in  the  butter,  and  served  with  a  puree  of 
winter  peas,  made  by  boiling  half  a  pint  of  peas  until  tender  (tied  up  in  a 
cloth)  ;  when  done  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  two  ounces  of  butter ;  season 
with  pepper  and  sidt,  add  a  gill  of  milk  or  cream,  pour  into  the  dish,  and 
dress  the  pork  over. 

No.  178.  Piffle  Liver,    Procure  a  nice  pig's  liver  with  the  caul,  cut  the 


686  KITCHBN  AT  HOME. 

liTer  into  good-sisefl  Blioea  of  the  thape  of  hearts,  seaaon  vith  a  little  pepper, 
salty  and  cayenne,  sprinkle  chopped  eschalots  and  dried  sage  over,  and  fold 
each  piece  of  liver  in  a  piece  of  the  caul ;  put  some  hatter  in  a  aante  or 
frying-pan,  lay  them  in,  place  over  the  fire,  let  fry  rather  quickly,  not  too  dry ; 
when  done  it  will  be  a  beaatifol  colour ;  take  oat  and  dress  in  circle  apoo 
TOur  dish ;  haye  ready  the  following  sauce :  put  six  spoonfuls  of  melted  batter 
m  a  stewpan,  with  one  of  catsup,  and  two  of  Harvey  or  Worcestershire  saaoe ; 
when  boiling  pour  over  the  liver  and  serve. 

To  plain  fiy  it,  cut  in  slices,  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  dip  in  flour,  or 
eggs  and  bread-crumbs,  firv  a  light  brown  in  batter  or  lard,  dress  in  a  cirde 
upon  your  dish,  pour  a  gill  of  water  into  the  pan,  add  a  little  Harvej  nance 
and  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a  walnut,  with  which  yon  have  mixed  half  a 
teaspoonfhl  of  flour;  let  boil  a  minate,  add  a  little  pepper  and  salt^  sauce 
over  and  serve. 

No^l79.  Pigi  Kidney*.  Cut  them  open  lengthwise,  season  well  with 
pepper  and  salt,  egg  over  with  a  paste-brush,  dip  into  bread-crumbs,  with  which 
you  have  mixed  some  chopped  parsley  and  eschalot,  run  a  skewer  through  to 
keep  them  open,  and  broil  for  about  a  quarter  of.  an  hour  over  a  good  fire ; 
when  done  place  them  upon  a  dish,  have  ready  an  ounce  of  butter,  with  which 
you  have  mixed  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  a  litle  pepper  and  salt,  and  a  teaspoonfiil 
of  French  or  common  mustard,  place  a  piece  upon  each  of  the  kidneys,  place 
in  the  oven  for  one  minute  and  serve.  Pigs*  kidneys  may  also  be  sauted  as 
directed  for  ox  kidneys  (No.  159). 

No.  180.  Black  Pudding*,  Very  few  people  take  the  trouble  to  do  them 
at  home,  it  being  part  of  the  business  of  the  pork  butcher  to  prepare  such 
delicacies.  I  shsdl,  however,  here  describe  a  very  simple  method  for  making 
them  more  palatable  than  those  purchased  in  England,  which  have  so  much 
spice  in  them  as  to  entirely  destroy  their  delicate  flavour.  Cut  into  rather 
small  dice  twenty  large  onions,  having  cut  off  the  roots,  being  hard,  put  them 
into  a  stewpan  with  half  a  pound  of  lard  or  butter,  let  stew  gently,  cut  three 

Eoundfl  of  pig's  flead,  free  from  skin,  into  small  dice,  have  ready  boiled  six 
eads  of  endive  chopped  fine,  and  put  into  the  stewpan  with  the  onions,  add 
two  ounces  of  salt,  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  half  a  nutmeg,  grated,  and  four 
spoonfuls  of  parsley,  chopped  with  a  little  thyme  and  bay-leaf;  then  add  six 
pints  of  pig*s  blooo,  mix  well,  leaving  no  lumps ;  if  too  tliin  add  a  few  hand- 
fuls  of  bread-crumbs,  or  half  a  pound  of  well-boiled  rice ;  have  ready  the 
small  intestines,  which  well  scrape  and  wash  in  salt  and  water,  tie  one  end 
upon  a  tin  funnel,  having  a  piece  a  yard  in  length,  closing  it  at  the  other 
end,  fill  with  the  above  preparation  by  pressing  through  a  funnel ;  take  off 
the  funnel,  tie  up  the  end,  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan  of  nearly  boiling 
water,  let  simmer  twenty  minutes,  pricking  them  occasionally  with  a  pin ; 
when' no  blood  oozes  out  they  are  done ;  take  up  and  place  them  upon  a  dish 
until  cold ;  when  ready  to  serve  cut  into  pieces  four  inches  in  length,  cut 
through  the  skin  at  different  places,  broil  ten  minutes  over  a  sharp  fire,  serve 
plain,  but  very  hot. 

These  puddings  are  best  made  whilst  the  blood  is  bUU  warm  from  the  pig, 
which  if  killed  at  home,  the  other  ingredients  may  be  prepared  previously. 
The  endive  may  be  omitted,  but  for  a  real  epicure  procure  it  if  possible ;  they 
are  served  in  France  on  the  best  of  tables,  and  are  quite  worthy  of  that 
honour.     Many  kinds  of  black  puddings  are  also  made  in  Scotland,  where 


KITCHEN  AT  HOME.  687 

Ihev  more  f^qnently  use  sheep's  blood,  using  the  interior  of  the  sheep,  fat 
and  all,  in  the  same  proportions  as  if  made  of  a  pig,  adding  oatmeal,  omitdng 
part  of  the  onions,  and  using  the  laiger  entrails. 

It  being  usual  in  this  country  to  introduce  leeks,  you  must  then  omit  the 
bread-crumbs  and  rice,  or  part  of  the  onions.  To  prevent  the  blood  curdling, 
it  must  be  salted,  by  adding  a  handful  of  salt,  and  whisking  well  for  ten 
minutes  as  soon  as  you  obtam  it  f^m  the  pie.  ^ 

Bice  well  boiled  in  broth  but  not  too  much  so,  is  an  excellent  addition  to 
black  puddings  (half  a  pound  for  the  above  quantity  being  quite  sufficient),  or 
grated  bread ;  leeks  also  may  be  used  instead  of  endive,  or  both  may  be 
omitted.  I  have  mentioned  these  di£ferent  articles,  that  if  one  cannot  be  pro- 
cured, another  might  be  used  instead,  fill  also  very  even,  mixing  fat  and  all  well 
together,  carefully  avoid  letting  any  air  get  in,  or  they  would  burst  in  boiling. 

No.  181.  Excellent  Saueage  Cakes,  Chop  some  lean  pork  very  fine,  having 
previously  detached  all  the  sldn  and  bone,  and  to  eveiy  pound  of  meat  add 
three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  fat  bacon,  half  an  ounce  of  salt,  a  saltspoonful  of 
pepper,  the  quarter  of  a  nutmeg  grated,  six  young  green  chopped  onions,  and 
a  little  chopped  parsley  ;  when  the  whole  is  well  chopped  put  into  a  mortar 
and  pound  well,  finishing  with  three  eggs ;  then  have  ready  a  pig's  caul,  which 
cut  into  pieces  lai^  enough  to  fold  a  piece  of  the  above  preparation  the  sise 
of  an  egg,  which  wrap  up,  keeping  the  shape  of  an  e^  but  rather  flattened, 
and  broU  very  gently  over  a  moderate  fire. 

No.  182.  Pigs'  Feet.  Procure  six  pigs'  feet,  nicely  salted,  which  boil  in 
water,  to  which  you  have  added  a  few  vegetables,  until  well  done,  cut  each 
one  in  halves,  take  out  the  long  bone,  have  some  sausage  meat  as  in  the  last, 
and  a  pig's  caul,  which  cut  into  pieces  each  large  enough  to  fold  half  a  foot, 
well  surrounded  with  sausage-meat,  when  well  wrapped  up  broil  slowly  half 
an  hour  over  a  moderate  fire,  and  serve.  Or,  when  the  pigs'  feet  are  well 
boiled,  egg  over,  and  throw  them  into  some  grated  crust  of  bi^ad,  with  which 
you  have  mixed  a  little  parsley ;  broil  a  nice  colour  and  serve  with  a  little 
plain  gravy. 


MADE  DISHES  FROM  POULTRY.. 

No.  183.  Blanquettee  of  Turkey.  With  the  remains  of  a  roasted  or  boiled 
turkey  you  may  make  a  very  nice  blanquette,  cutting  the  meat  into  small 
thin  slices,  chop  up  the  bones,  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  an  onion, 
half  a  blade  of  mace,  and  a  very  little  lean  ham  or  bacon,  just  cover  with 
water,  boil  twenty  minutes,  and  with  the  stock  make  a  white  sauce  as  directed 
(No.  7i  Kitchen  of  the  Wealthy),  put  the  slices  into  a  stewpan,  just  cover  with 
a  httle  of  the  sauce,  add  a  little  white  pepper,  salt,  and  grated  nutmeg,  make 
all  hot  together,  not,  however,  allowing  it  to  boU,  finish  with  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cream,  mixed  with  the  yoDc  of  an  egg,  stir  in  quickly,  pour  out 
upon  a  dish,  and  serve  with  triangular  scippets  of  fried  or  toasted  bread 
round.  When  cucumbers  are  in  season  I  frequently  use  one,  cutting  it  in 
pieces  two  inches  in  length,  which  again  split  into  three,  peel,  and  take  out 
all  the  seeds,  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  few  chopped  onions,  a  little 
butter  and  sugar,  and  stew  gently  over  a  slow  fire  until  tender ;  five  minutes 
before  serving  add  them  to  tiie  blanqnctte,  they  being  a  great  improvement. 


688  KITCHEN  AT  HOME. 

No*  1 84 .  Bomduu  of  Turkejf,  Cut  ap  all  the  flesli  remaining  upon  a  torkej 
into  amall  dice,  if  about  a  pound  and  a  half,  pat  a  teaapoonnil  of  chopped 
onions  into  a  atewpan,  with  a  piece  of  batter  of  the  size  of  two  walnota,  pan 
a  few  aeconda  orer  the  fire,  then  add  half  a  tablespoonfnl  of  flour  (mix  well) 
and  the  mince,  which  moiaten  with  a  pint  of  stock  made  from  the  bones  as 
in  the  laat,  simmer  some  time,  keeping  it  moved,  season  with  a  little  pepper, 
salt,  and  sugar,  finish  with  the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  which  stir  in  qnicldy  over 
the  fire,  not  allowing  it  to  boil  afterwards,  poor  oat  upon  a  dish  until  cold ; 
just  before  ready  to  serve,  divide  it  into  equal  parts,  roU  out  each  to  about  the 
sixe  of  small  e^;8,  shaping  them  to  fancy,  egg  and  bread-crumb  twice  over,  fiy 
in  very  hot  lard  or  dripping  of  a  liffht  brown  colour,  and  serve.  A  little  ham 
or  tongue  (should  you  have  any  left)  cut  small,  and  mixed  with  the  mince 
would  be  a  great  improvement. 

No.  185.  Turban  of  Croquette*.  Croquettes  are  made  precisely  as  the  last, 
but  not  more  than  half  the  size ;  when  done,  dress  them  in  crown  upon  a  border 
of  mashed  potatoes,  and  have  ready  some  of  the  blanquette  of  turkey,  which 
aerve  in  the  centre. 

No.  186.  Minced  aud  QriUed  Turkey.  Detach  the  leg,  wing,  or  take  off 
the  best  part  of  the  turkey  remaining,  which  season  wdl  with  pepper  and 
salt,  and  broil  over  a  good  fire,  have  ready  prepared  a  mince  from  the  remain- 
ing flesh  of  the  turkey,  made  as  directed  for  the  boudins,  but  omitting  the 
yolks  of  eggs ;  when  quite  hot  and  well  seasoned  poor  into  your  dish,  and 
dress  the  broiled  piece  upon  it. 

No.  187.  Devilled  Turkey.  Cut  up  the  remains  of  your  turkey  into  good- 
sised  pieces  or  joints,  if  sufficient,  cut  incisions  crosswise  upon  eadi  piece,  and 
well  rub  them  with  cayenne  pepper,  broil  quickly  over  a  sharp  fire,  obras  them 
in  your  dish,  and  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  put  a  tablespoonful  oi 
chopped  eschalots  in  a  stewpan  with  a  wineglassful  of  Chili  vinegar,  reduce  to 
half,  add  half  a  pint  of  thin  melted  butter,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  catsup,  and 
two  of  Worcestershire  sauce,  boil  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  stir  in  two 
ounces  of  fresh  butter,  pour  over  and  serve.  Many  persons  like  the  above 
best  dry,  so  it  would  be  as  well  to  serve  the  sauce  separate  in  a  boat,  or  a 
litde  plain  gravy  only  underneath.  The  remains  of  poulardes,  capons,  or  fowls 
may  be  dressed  preosely  as  directed  for  the  tarkey. 

No.  1 88.  Gooee  Hashed.  The  remains  of  a  goose  is  only  fit  for  hashing,  or 
devilling,  for  which  proceed  as  last  directed  ;  when  for  hashing  put  a  spoonful 
of  chopped  onions  into  a  stewpan,  with  an  ounce  of  butter,  pass  over  the  fire 
until  becoming  rather  brown,  when  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  mix  well,  cut 
up  the  remains  of  a  goose  into  moderate-sized  pieces,  season  with  pepper  and 
salt,  add  about  a  pint  of  stock  or  water,  let  simmer  ten  minutes,  when 
pour  out  npon  a  dish  and  serve.  For  a  variation,  a  little  sage  and  a  couple  of 
apples  sliced  and  cooked  in  the  sauce  is  very  good. 

No.  189.  Stewed  Duck  and  Peas.  Procure  a  duck  trussed  with  the  legs 
turned  inside,  which  put  into  a  stewpan,  vrith  two  ounces  of  butter  and  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  streaked  bacon,  let  remain  over  a  fire,  stirring  occa- 
sionally until  lighdy  browned,  when  add  a  good  tablespoonful  of  flour  (mix 
well)  and  a  pint  of  broth  or  water,  stir  round  gentiy  until  boiling,  when  skim, 


KITCHEN  AT  HOME.  689 

and  add  twenty  button  onions,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  with  a  bay-leaf,  and  two 
cloves,  let  simmer  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  then  add  a  quart  of  nice  young  peas, 
let  simmer  until  done,  which  will  take  about  half  an  hour  longer,  tiJce  out 
the  duck,  place  it  upon  your  dish  (taking  away  the  string  it  was  trussed 
with),  take  out  the  parsley  and  bay-leaf,  season  the  peas  with  a  Utde  pepper, 
salt,  and  sugar,  reduce  a  little  if  not  sufficiently  thick,  pour  oyer  the  duck 
and  serve. 

No.  1 90.  Ducklinff  with  Turnips  is  a  very  favorite  dish  amongst  the  middle 
classes  in  France.  Proceed  as  in  the  last,  but  instead  of  peas  use  about  forty 
pieces  of  good  turnips  cut  into  moderate-sized  square  pieces,  having  previously 
fried  them  of  a  light  yellow  colour  in  a  Uttle  butter  or  lard,  and  cLrained  them 
upon  a  sieve ;  dress  the  duck  upon  a  dish  as  before,  season  the  sauce  with  a 
little  pepper,  salt,  and  sugar,  reduce  until  rather  thick,  a  thin  sauce  not 
suiting  a  dish  of  this  description ;  the  turnips  must  not«  however,  be  in  puree } 
sauce  over  and  serve. 

The  remains  of  ducks  left  from  a  previous  dinner  may  be  hashed  as  directed 
for  goose,  and  for  variety,  should  peas  be  in  season,  a  pint  previously  boiled 
may  be  added  to  the  hash  just  before  serving.  The  sage  and  apple  must  in 
all  cases  be  omitted. 

No.  191.  Fricassee  of  Fowl  or  Chicken.  Cut  a  fowl  or  chicken  into  eight 
pieces,  that  is,  the  two  wings  and  legs  dividing  the  back  and  breast  into  two 
pieces  each,  wash  well,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  and  cover  with  water,  season 
with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  little  pepper,  a  good  bunch  of  parsley,  four 
cloves,  and  a  blade  of  mace,  let  boil  twenty  minutes,  pass  the  stock  through 
a  sieve  into  a  basin,  take  out  the  pieces  of  fowl,  trim  well,  then  in  another 
stewpan  put  two  ounces  of  butter,  with  which  mix  a  good  spoonful  of  flour, 
moisten  with  the  stock,  and  put  in  the  pieces  of  fowl,  btir  ocaasionaUy,  until 
boiling,  skim  well,  add  twenty  button  onions,  let  simmer  until  the  onions  are 
tender,  when  add  a  gill  of  cream,  with  which  you  have  mixed  the  yolks  of  two 
'  cggs>  stir  in  quickly  over  the  fire,  but  do  not  let  boil,  take  out  the  pieces, 
diress  in  pyramid  upon  your  dish,  sauce  over  and  serve. 

No.  192.  Fricassee  of  Fowl  with  Mushrooms,  Proceed  as  in  the  last,  but 
add  twenty  mushrooms  (peeled,  if  very  black),  not  too  large,  about  ten 
minutes  before  adding  the  cream  and  yolks  of  eggs. 

No.  193.  Currie  of  Fowly  Oriental  Fashion.  Peel  and  cut  two  large 
onions  into  thin  slices,  which  put  into  a  stewpan,  with  two  ounces  of  butter, 
fry  them  over  a  slow  fire  until  lightly  browned  and  quite  pulpy,  then  add  a 
good  tablespoonful  of  currie-powder,  and  one  of  currie-paste,  mix  well,  add 
half  a  pint  of  broth  or  water,  let  boil,  keeping  it  stirred,  then  have  a  fowl  cut 
into  eight  pieces,  which  put  in  the  stewpan,  cover  well  with  the  currie,  add 
half  a  pint  of  cream,  let  simmer  gently  three  quarters  of  an  hour  over  a  slow 
fire,  stirring  occasionally,  take  out  the  pieces,  dress  pyramidically  upon  a  dish, 
pour  the  sauce  over,  and  serve  with  rice  plain  boiled  as  directed  (page  51)  on 
a  separate  dish. 

No.  194.  Broiled  Fowl.  Procure  a  fowl  trussed  as  for  boiling,  cut  out 
the  back-bone  and  press  quite  flat,  season  well  with  pepper,  salt,  and 
chopped  eschalots,  place  in  a  8aut6-pan,  fry  upon  both  sides,  take  out^  egg 

44 


690  KITCHBN  AT  HOMS. 

over  with  a  paste-brash,  dip  into  bread-crnmbs,  place  apon  the  g^diron,  orer 
a  moderate  fire,  and  broil  a  very  light  brown  colour,  glase  OTer^  if  nnj,  and 
serve  with  a  little  plain  gravy,  or  mushroom  sauce,  made  by  pntting  hal/  t 
pint  of  melted  butter  into  a  stewpan,  with  about  twenty  button  mushrooms, 
well  washed,  let  simmer  ten  minutes,  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  catsup,  and 
two  of  Harvey  sauce,  finish  with  a  pat  of  butter,  pour  the  sauce  in  the  dii^, 
dress  the  fowl  over  and  serve.  I  very  frequently  also  serve  it  at  home  withi 
sauce  ik  la  tartare  made  as  directed  page  19. 

No.  195.  Fowl  Sautidin  Oil,  Cut  a  fowl  in  pieces  as  described  for  the 
fricassee,  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  four  spoonfuls  of  oil,  place  over 
the  fire,  and  when  of  a  light  brown  colour  add  a  good  tablespoonful  of  floor 
(mix  well),  and  moisten  with  a  pint  of  broth  or  water,  let  simmer  a  quarter  of 
an  hour,  keeping  well  skimmed,  add  a  raw  truffle  cut  in  slices,  or  a  few  mush- 
rooms, season  with  a  little  pepper,  salt,  sugar,  and  a  little  scraped  garlic  the 
size  of  a  pea,  take  out  the  pieces  of  fowl,  which  dresR  pyramidically  upon  your 
dish,  reduce  the  sauce  oyer  the  fire,  keeping  it  stirred  until  adhering  to  the 
back  of  the  spoon,  when  pour  over  and  serve. 

No.  196.  Fricassee  of  Rabbits.  Cut  two  nice  young  rabbits  into  yery 
neat  joints,  or  the  legs  only  may  be  used,  and  put  them  into  lukewarm  water 
to  disgorge  for  half  an  hour,  take  out  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  a 
large  onion  cut  into  slices,  two  doTes,  a  blade  of  mace,  a  Uttle  parsley,  one 
bay-leaf,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  streaked  bacon  cut  in  dice ;  just  cover 
with  water,  let  simmer  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  keeping  it  well  skimmed,  pass 
the  stock  through  a  sieve,  and  proceed  precisely  as  for  the  fricassee  of  fowl, 
page  689. 

No.  1 97.  Gibelotte  of  Rabbits,  Cut  two  youne  rabbits  into  joints  as  in  the 
last,  cut  also  half  a  pound  of  streaked  bacon  mto  dice,  fry  the  bacon  in  butter 
in  a  stewpan,  then  put  in  the  pieces  of  rabbits ;  when  slightly  browned  add  a 
good  spoonful  of  flour,  mix  well,  and  moisten  with  rather  more  than  a  pint  of 
water,  season  with  a  little  Bait  and  pepper,  when  beginning  to  boil  skim  well, 
add  fifty  button  onions,  and  a  few  button  mushrooms,  if  any,  let  simmer  a  quar- 
ter of  an  hour,  take  out  the  pieces  of  rabbit,  which  dress  in  pyramid  upon  a 
dish ;  let  the  sauce  boil,  keeping  it  stirred,  until  the  onions  are  quite  tender, 
and  tiie  sauce  thick  enough  to  adhere  to  the  back  of  the  spoon,  when  add  a  little 
colouring,  pour  over  the  rabbit  and  serve. 

No.  198  Currie  of  Rabbit.  Cut  four  middling-sized  onions  and  two 
apples  in  slices,  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  two  ounces  of  butter, 
place  over  a  moderate  fire,  stirring  occasionally,  until  the  onions  are  slightly 
browned  and  quite  pulpy,  when  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  currie-powder  ana 
one  of  currie-paste ;  mix  well,  and  moisten  with  half  a  pint  of  stock  or  water, 
let  boil;  have  ready  a  couple  of  young  rabbits  cut  into  joints,  and  fried  in 
butter  in  a  saute  or  frying-pan  of  a  nice  brown  colour,  put  into  the  currie  sauce, 
season  with  a  little  salt  and  juice  of  lemon,  let  stew  very  gently  over  a  very  slow 
fire,  stirring  occasionally,  until  the  rabbit  is  quite  tender,  when  dress  upon 
your  dish,  and  serve  with  rice,  plain  boiled,  separate. 

The  legs  only  of  the  rabbits  may  be  dressed  in  either  of  the  foregoing  ways, 
should  the  fillets  be  required  for  other  purposes. 


KITCHEN  AT  HOME.  691 

No.  1 99.  Rabbit  Pies.  Cut  two  or  three  rabbits  up  in  joints,  and  i\ 
pound  of  streaked  bacon  in  slices ;  butter  a  pie-dish,  lay  some  of  the  slices  of 
bacon  upon  the  bottom,  dip  the  pieces  of  rabbits  into  flour,  place  a  layer  of 
tbem  over  the  bacon,  season  well  with  pepper  and  salt,  then  add  another 
layer  of  bacon,  then  rabbit,  again  seasoning,  proceeding  thus,  building  them 
in  a  dome  above  the  edge  of  the  dish ;  have  ready  a  pound  of  half  puff  paste 
made  as  directed  (page  480),  with  which  cover  them,  ornamenting  the  top 
with  leaves ;  egg  over  lightly,  and  bake  about  an  hour  and  a  half  in  a  mo- 
derate oven,  put  half  a  pint  of  good  gravy  in  with  a  funnel,  and  serve. 

Rabbits  plain  boiled  and  served  with  onion  sauce  are  also  very  excellent ; 
make  the  sauce  thus :  peel  and  cut  six  large  onions  into  very  small  dice,  put 
into  a  stewpan,  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  pass  five  minutes  over  the  fire, 
keeping  it  stirred,  add  two  ounces  of  flour,  mix  well,  moisten  with  a  pint 
and  a  half  of  milk,  season  with  a  little  white  pepper,  salt,  and  sugar,  keep 
Btirrine  over  the  fire  until  the  onions  are  quite  tender,  and  it  becomes  rather 
a  thickish  sauce,  when  serve  over  the  rabbit. 

The  remains  of  rabbits  may  be  warmed  and  served  with  the  above  sauce, 
made  into  blanquettes,  or  minced  as  directed  for  turkeys  or  fowls. 

No.  200.  Pigeon  Pie.  Procure  four  pigeons,  but  not  trussed,  and  cut 
off  the  feet ;  have  a  nice  tender  rump-steak,  well  seasoned,  which  dip  in  flour 
and  lay  at  the  bottom  of  a  buttered  pie-dish ;  place  the  pigeon  over,  elevating 
their  tails  to  meet  in  the  centre,  season  well  with  pepper  and  salt,  place  a 
piece  of  fat  bacon  over  the  breast  of  each  bird,  sprinkle  a  few  chopped  e»cha- 
tots  over,  have  six  eggs  boiled,  the  yolks  of  which  place  in  the  dish,  pour  in 
half  a  pint  of  water,  and  cover  the  pie  with  a  pound  of  half  puff  paste  made 
as  directed  (page  480),  ornamenting  the  top  with  leaves  of  paste,  sticking 
the  pigeons'  feet  in  the  centre,  and  brushing  eggs  lightly  over  the  top ;  bake 
about  an  hour  and  a  half  in  a  moderate  oven.  Lamb  or  veal  may  be  used 
instead  of  the  beef  at  the  bottom,  if  preferred,  and  the  whole  of  the  eg^, 
each  cut  in  four  lengthwise,  instead  of  the  yolks  only. 

No.  201.  Pigeons  in  Compote.  Pat  half  a  pound  of  lean  bacon,  cut  into 
large  dice,  in  a  stewpan,  with  half  an  ounce  of  butter,  pass  a  few  minutes 
over  the  fire,  then  have  three  pigeons  trussed  with  their  legs  turned  inside, 
place  them  in  the  stewpan  with  the  bacon,  breasts  downwards,  let  remain 
until  becoming  of  a  lignt  brown  colour,  moving  them  round  occasionally ; 
add  a  tablespoonful  of  flonir,  move  round  until  becoming  a  little  browned, 
moisten  with  a  pint,  or  a  little  more,  water,  mix  weU,  add  a  good  bunch  of 
parsley,  with  a  bay-leaf,  thirty  button  onions,  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  let 
simmer  three  quarters  of  an  hour,  skimming  weU,  dress  the  pigeons  upon  a 
dish,  with  the  bacon  and  onions  round,  reduce  the  sauce  to  a  proper  consist^ 
ency,  take  out  the  parsley  and  bay-leaf,  pour  over  and  serve. 

No.  202.  Stewed  Pigeons  with  Peas.  Proceed  precisely  as  in  the  last,  but 
adding  nearly  a  quart  of  very  fresh  peas  with  the  onions  and  parsley, 
omitting  the  bay-leaf;  dress  the  pigeons  upon  a  dish,  pour  the  peas  and 
sauce  over  when  ready  to  serve. 

GAME. — ^No.  203.  Pheasants,  Partridges,  Grouse,  Black  Game,  Wood- 
cocks, etc.,  by  the  greater  part  of  the  population  are  preferred  plain  roasted, 
which  is,  in  my  opinion^  the  best ;  but  bjr  way  of  change,  and  for  the  method 


692  KITCHEN  AT  HOMX. 

of  dressing  the  remains  of  any  description  of  birds,  I  hare  given  tlie  fSev  Hi^- 
loM'iiig  simple  receipts : 

No.  204.  Small  PkeasantM,  the  Miller  s  Fashion,  Roast  a  pheasant  as 
directed  (paee  403),  previously  dipping  it  in  flour,  and  occasion^ly  shakiBg 
flour  over  whilst  roasting,  thus  it  will  be  very  crisp  and  keep  nearly  whiUr ; 
put  the  crumb  of  two  French  rolls  in  a  stewpan,  with  half  a  pint  of  milk,  s 
small  eschalot,  a  bay-leaf,  an  ounce  of  butter,  and  a  little  pepper  and  salt ;  let 
boil,  take  out  the  eschalot  and  bay-leaf,  place  a  piece  of  buttered  toast  upon 
your  dish,  pour  the  sauce  over,  dress  Uie  pheasant  upon  the  top,  and  serve ; 
a  little  gravy  may  also  be  served  separate  in  a  boat. 

No.  205.  Pheasant  with  Cabbage,  Procure  a  nice  white-heart  winter 
cabbage,  which  cut  in  quarters,  and  blanch  fiye  minutes  in  boiling  water, 
drain  quite  dry,  cut  off  part  of  the  stalk,  season  well  with  salt,  place  it  in  a 
stewpan,  with  half  a  pound  of  streaked  bacon  and  a  pint  of  broth,  and  stew 
gently  for  about  half  an  hour ;  then  have  a  pheasant  about  three  parts  roasted, 
thrust  it  into  the  cabbage  whilst  hot,  and  let  the  whole  stew  gently  together 
half  an  hour  longer ;  take  out  the  pheasant  and  cabbage,  squeezing  it  to  the 
sides  of  the  stewpan  to  extract  the  stock,  dress  the  cabbage  in  pyramid  upon 
your  dish,  with  the  pheasant  upon  the  top,  dress  the  bacon,  cut  in  alices, 
around,  skim  the  stock  well,  let  reduce  to  half,  pour  round  and  serve. 

No.  206.  Hashed  Pheasant.  From  the  remains  of  a  pheasant  previ- 
ously served,  make  a  hash  in  the  following  manner :  cut  it  up  into  smallish 
pieces  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  vnth  a  little  flour,  half  a  glass  of  port 
wine,  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  and  a  bay-leaf,  and  sufficient  broth  (or  water  with 
a  piece  of  glaze  in  it)  to  moisten  it ;  let  simmer  very  gei.tly  five  minutes,  take 
out  the  pieces,  dress  them  upon  your  dish,  pass  the  sauce  through  a  hair 
sieve  over,  and  serve. 

No.  207.  A  Plain  Salmi  of  Pheasants.  Cut  off  and  trim  well  the  best 
pieces  remaining  of  pheasants,  previously  served,  and  put  them  into  a  stew- 
pan ;  then  in  another  stewpan  put  the  bones  and  trimmings  (broken  up  snudl), 
with  an  onion  in  slices,  a  little  parsley,  a  bay-leaf,  four  peppercorns,  and  a 
glass  of  sherry,  boil  a  few  minutes ;  then  stir  in  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  and 
moisten  by  degrees  with  a  pint  of  broth  (or  water  with  a  piece  of  glaze),  boil 
about  ten  minutes,  keeping  it  stirred ;  when  thick  enough  to  adhere  to  the 
back  of  the  spoon,  pass  through  a  tammie  or  fine  sieve,  into  the  other  stew- 
pan over  the  pieces  of  pheasants,  warm  altogether  gently,  not  allovnng  it  to 
boil,  colour  a  little  brown  with  half  a  spoonful  of  colouring  (page  673),  take 
out  the  pieces,  dress  in  pyramid  sauce  over,  and  serve  with  scippets  of  fried 
or  toasted  bread,  cut  in  the  shape  of  hearts,  round. 

Th^  remains  of  pheasants  may  be  minced  and  served  with  eggs  boiled  five 
minutes,  and  the  shells  taken  off,  or  made  into  boudins  or  croquettes  as  di- 
rected for  turkey  (page  687),  as  may  any  other  description  of  game. 

No.  208.  Grouse,  Scotch  Fashion.  Plain  roast  the  grouse,  dress  them 
upon  toast  on  your  dish,  and  serve  with  plain  melted  butter  poured  over 
them ;  they  may  also  be  dressed  in  any  of  the  ways  directed  for  pheasants, 
with  the  exception  of  being  stewed  with  the  cabbage ;  black  game  is  dressed 
precisely  the  same  as  the  grouse. 


KITCHEN    AT    HOME.  693 

No.  209.  Partridges  a  la  Jardinihe.  Have  a  plain  round  tin  cutter, 
with  which  cut  about  forty  pieces  of  carrot  and  turnip,  each  about  the  thick- 
ness of  a  quill,  and  half  an  inch  in  length  ;  put  them  into  a  stevpan  with 
twenty  button  onions,  two  ounces  of  butter,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered 
sugar ;  pass  over  a  sharp  fire  until  the  vegetables  become  covered  with  a  thin- 
nish  glaze,  when  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  (mix  well)  and  a  pint  of  stock  or 
gravy ;  let  simmer  until  the  vegetables  are  tender,  keeping  it  well  skimmed. 
Roast  two  partridges  rather  underdone,  which  put  into  the  sauce  twenty 
minutes  before  serving ;  let  simmer  very  gently,  skim  off  aU  the  fat,  dress  the 
birds  upon  a  dish,  pour  the  sauce  and  vegetables  over,  and  serve. 

No.  210.  Partridges  with  Cabbage.  Proceed  exactly  as  described  for  the 
pheasant,  but  using  two  birds  instead  of  one :  if  convenient,  it  would  be  a 
great  improvement  to  lard  the  breasts  of  the  birds  with  fat  bacon. 

No.  211.  Partridges  sauted  with  Mushrooms,  Divide  two  partridges 
each  into  halves,  beat  them  a  little  flattish,  put  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  salad-oil  into  a  flat  stewpan,  lay  in  the  partridges,  the  inner  side  down- 
wards, first  seasoning  with  a  little  pepper,  salt,  and  chopped  eschalots ;  place 
over  a  moderate  fire,  put  a  cover  upon  the  stewpan,  and  let  remain  until  of  a 
light  brown  colour ;  remove  the  lid,  turn  the  partridges  over,  and  let  remain 
until  coloured  the  other  side ;  then  pour  off  a  little  of  the  oil,  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  flour,  turn  round  until  well  mixed,  add  a  good  glassful  of  sherry, 
half  a  pint  of  stock  or  water,  and  twenty  small  button  mushrooms ;  let  sim- 
mer until  the  paitridges  are  tender,  and  the  sauce  thick  enough  to  adhere  to 
them ;  having  kept  it  well  skimmed,  season  with  a  little  pepper,  salt,  and 
sugur,  if  required ;  lay  the  partridges  upon  a  dish,  sauce  over,  and  serve. 

The  remains  of  partridges  may  be  hashed  or  served  in  a  plain  salmi,  pre- 
cisely as  directed  for  pheasants. 

ft 

No.  212.  Woodcocks,  Dovmshire  Fashion.  Plain  roast  the  woodcocks  as 
directed  (page  407),  catching  their  tails  upon  toast,  upon  which,  when 
done,  dress  the  birds  upon  a  dish ;  pour  a  thick  melted  butter  (with  which 
you  have  mixed  the  yolk  of  an  egg  and  a  little  cream)  over,  sprinkle  lightly 
with  bread-crumbs,  salamander  a  light  brown  colour,  and  serve  with  a  little 
gravy  round. 

No.  213.  Woodcocks  ^  la  Chasseur,  Roast  two  woodcocks  rather  under- 
done, catching  the  interior  upon  a  large  piece  of  toast ;  when  done,  cut  each 
one  in  four,  and  place  in  a  stewpan  with  the  remainder  of  the  interior, 
chopped  small ;  add  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  a  f  lass  of  sherry,  a  little  chopped 
eschalots,  parsley,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  half  a  gill  of  broth ;  let  sim- 
mer a  few  minutes,  dish  rather  high  upon  the  toast,  sauce  over,  and  serve. 

No.  214.  Hashed  Woodcocks,  Should  you  have  any  remaining  from  a 
previous  dinner,  cut  each  one  in  four  or  more  pieces ;  chop  all  that  remains 
in  the  interior,  which  mix  with  a  small  piece  of  butter,  a  spoonful  of  bread- 
crumbs, and  a  little  chopped  parsley,  make  six  croutons  in  the  shape  of 
hearts  from  a  piece  of  toasted  bread,  spread  the  above  preparation  upon  each, 
and  place  a  short  time  in  the  oven  ;  hash  the  pieces  as  directed  for  the  phea- 
sant, dress  in  pyramid  on  a  dish,  with  the  croutons  round,  sauce  over,  and 
serve. 


694  KITCHEN  AT  HOME. 

No.  215.  Snipe*  d  la  Minute,  Pat  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  batter  in  i 
Btewpan,  over  which  lay  six  snipes,  breasts  downwards ;  add  a  spoonfoi  of 
chopped  onions,  one  ditto  of  parsley,  a  little  grated  natmeg,  half  a  to- 
spoonfiil  of  salt,  and  a  saltsDoonful  of  pepper ;  set  over  a  briak  fire  seren  or 
ten  minates  (according  to  tne  sixe  of  the  birds),  stirring  occasionally,  then 
add  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  two  glaanes  of  sherry  or  buoellas  wine,  aod  i 
spoonful  of  finely-grated  crust  of  bread ;  let  the  whole  simmer  a  fewminotei, 
dress  the  birds  upon  a  dish,  mix  the  sauce  well,  pour  over,  and  serve. 

.No.  216.  PloverSj  with  English  raw  Truffiee.  Put  a  quarter  of  a  poaDdof 
butter  in  a  stewpan,  over  which  place  four  plovers,  breasts  downwards,  vA 
eight  raw  truffles,  well  washed,  peeled,  and  cut  into  thickish  slices ;  add  alw 
two  cloves,  a  bay-leaf,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  saltspoonfnl  of  pepper; 
pass  the  whole  ten  minutes  over  a  sharp  fiire,  stirring  occasionally ;  add  half 
a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  mix  well,  moisten  with  a  gill  of  broth  and  a  glass  of 
white  wine,  let  simmer  ten  minutes  longer,  skim  well,  dress  the  bir£  upon 
a  dish,  reduce  the  sauce,  add  a  little  sugar  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  sauce 
over,  and  serve. 

No.  217.  Wild  Buck.  Truss  as  directed  (p.  688,  No.  189),  rub  all  over 
with  the  liver,  makine  it  quite  red,  and  roast  twenty  minutes  before  a  good  fire, 
then  with  a  sharp  knife  cut  eight  incisions  down  the  breast ;  you  have  pat  an 
ounce  of  butter  into  a  stewpan  with  a  quarter  of  a  saitspoonful  of  cayenne, 
the  rind  of  an  orange,  free  from  pith,  cut  in  strips,  blanched  in  boiling  water, 
and  well  drained  upon  a  sieve,  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon ;  warm  over  the  fire, 
and  when  melted,  but  not  oily,  pour  over  the  duck,  and  serve. 

No.  218.  Hashed  Wild  Duck.  Cut  up  the  remains  of  a  duck  or  ducb 
into  neat  pieces,  and  put  into  a  stewpan  with  half  or  a  tablespoonful  of  floor, 
depending  upon  the  quantity ;  mix  well,  moisten  with  a  glass  or  two  of  wine, 
and  sufiicient  broth  or  water  to  make  a  thickish  sauce,  season  well,  add  a  little 
Harvey  sauce,  mushroom  catsup,  a  little  sugar,  and  cayenne  peppor;  Wt 
simmer  but  not  boil,  take  out  the  pieces,  which  dress  upon  toast,  reduce  the 
sauce,  pour  over,  and  serve.     A  little  colouring  may  be  added  if  approved  ot 

No.  219.  Widgeons.  Truss  as  for  wild  ducks,  rub  over  with  some  of  their 
livers,  chop  up  the  remainder,  which  mix  with  a  few  bread-crumbs,  a  little 
chopped  lemon-peel,  chopped  parsley,  and  an  egg,  with  which  stuff  the 
interior ;  roast  nearly  as  long  as  for  the  wild  duck  before  a  very  sharp  fire, 
dress  upon  toast  on  a  dish,  and  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  put  half  a 
glass  of  port  wine  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  eschalot,  a 
little  salt,  pepper,  and  cayenne ;  boil  a  few  minutes,  add  the  juice  of  a 
lemon,  and  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  sauce  over,  and  serve.  Widgeons  are 
hashed  in  the  same  manner  as  described  for  wild  duck. 

No.  220.  Teal,  a  new  Method.  Procure  four,  draw  them,  then  put  half 
a  pound  of  butter  upon  a  plate,  with  a  Uttle  pepper,  grated  nutmeg,  parsley, 
a  spoonful  of  grated  crust  of  bread,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  the  liver  of  the 
teal ;  mix  well  together,  and  with  it  fill  the  interior  of  the  teal ;  cover  them 
with  slices  of  lemon,  fold  in  thin  slices  of  bacon,  then  in  paper,  and  roast 
twenty  minutes  before  a  sharp  fire ;  take  off  the  paper,  brown  the  bacon, 
dress  them  upon  a  slice  of  thick  toast,  letting  the  butter  from  the  teal  run 
over  it,  and  serve  very  hot. 


KITCHEN  AT  HOME.  693 

No.  221.  Teal  d  ia  sans  Fa^an.  Roast  four  teal  qmte  plain,  prepare  a 
quarter  of  a  poand  of  batter,  as  above,  with  the  omission  of  the  livers,  which 
place  in  a  stewpan  over  the  fire,  stirring  quickly,  until  forming  a  kind  of 
Bauce  ;  add  some  fillets  from  the  pulp  of  a  lemon,  sauce  over,  and  serve.  The 
remains  of  teal  also  make  an  excdlent  hash. 

No.  222.  Larks  d  la  Minute.  Proceed  as  directed  for  snipes  k  la  minute, 
previously  stuffing  them  with  their  livers,  as  directed  for  widgeons,  adding  a 
few  mushrooms  at  the  commencement,  and  not  letting  them  stew  too  quickly, 
or  the  bottom  would  become  brown  and  give  a  bad  flavour  to  the  sauce ;  ten 
minutes  is  quite  sufficient  to  stew  them. 

No  223.  Lark  Pie.  Cover  the  bottom  of  a  pie-dish  with  thin  slices  of  beef 
and  fat  bacon,  over  which  lay  ten  or  twelve  larks,  previously  rolled  in  flour, 
season  with  a  teaspoonfnl  of  salt,  a  quarter  do.  of  pepper,  one  of  chopped 
parsley,  and  one  of  chopped  eschalot;  lay  a  bay-leaf  over,  add  a  gill  of  broth, 
and  cover  Mrith  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  half  puff  paste  (p.  480)  ;  bake 
one  hour  in  a  moderate  oven,  shake  well  to  make  the  gravy  in  the  pie  form  a 
kind  of  sauce,  and  serve  quite  hot. 

No.  224.  Jugged  Hare.  Put  nearly  half  a  pound  of  butter  into  a  good- 
sized  stewpan  with  ten  ounces  of  flour,  making  rather  a  thinnish  roux  by 
continually  turning  over  a  slow  fire  until  becoming  of  a  yellowish  tinge,  then 
add  a  pound  of  good  streaked  bacon,  previously  cut  into  good-sized  square 
pieces ;  keep  stirring  a  few  minutes  longer  over  the  fire ;  you  have  previously 
cut  the  hare  into  nice  pieces,  throw  them  into  the  stewpan,  and  stir  over  the 
fire  until  becoming  firm,  when  moisten  with  four  glasses  of  port  wine,  and 
sufficient  water  to  cover  them ;  when  beginning  to  boil,  skim  well,  season  in 
proportion  to  the  size  of  your  hare,  let  simmer,  add  two  bay-leaves,  four 
cloves,  and,  when  about  half  done,  forty  button  onions,  or  ten  large  ones, 
cut  into  slices ;  let  simmer  until  the  whole  is  well  done,  the  sauce  requiring 
to  be  rather  thick  ;  dress  the  pieces  as  high  as  possible  upon  your  dish,  sauce 
over,  and  serve.  The  remains  are  excellent  eitner  cold  or  warmed  up  asain 
in  the  stewpan.  If  cheap  and  in  season,  a  few  small  new  potatoes  are  exceUent 
stewed  with  it. 

No.  225.  Another  and  more  simple  Method,  Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
butter  with  a  pound  of  bacon,  cut  into  dice,  and  the  hare,  cut  into  pieces, 
in  a  stewpan  set  upon  a  moderate  fire  until  the  pieces  of  hare  are  becoming 
firm,  when  add  six  ounces  of  flour,  mix  well,  and  moisten  with  sufficient 
water  to  cover  it,  add  two  glasses  of  any  kind  of  wine  and  one  of  vinegar, 
season  as  above,*  let  simmer  until  tender,  keeping  well  skimmed :  when  done, 
and  the  sauce  becoming  quite  thick,  dress  upon  your  dish,  and  serve  as 
before. 

MEAT  PIES  AND  PUDDINGS. 

No.  226.  Rump  Steak  Pie.  Procure  two  pounds  of  rump-steak,  which  cut 
into  thinnish  slices,  season  well  with  pepper  and  salt,  dip  each  piece  into  flour, 
and  lay  them  in  a  small  pie-dish,  finishing  the  top  in  form  of  a  dome ;  add  a 
wineglassful  of  water,  and  cover  with  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  half  puff 
paste  (page  480),  egg  over  with  a  paste-brush,  and  bake  rather  better  than  an 
hour  in  a  moderate  oven ;  serve  either  hot  or  cold. 


696  KTTCHKN  AT  HOME. 

No.  227.  Mutton  Pie.  Procure  the  champs  from  three  loins  of  mutton, 
which  cut  into  moderate  Blice»,  put  a  layer  of  them  at  the  bottom  of  tout diib, 
season  well  with  pepper,  salt,  chopped  parsley,  and  eschalot,  over  which  pui 
a  layer  of  thin  slices  of  raw  potatoes,  then  the  meat,  and  seasoning  again,  pro- 
ceeding thus,  finishing  in  »-dome ;  add  a  wineglasafiil  of  water,  cover  widi 
paste,  and  bake  as  in  the  last. 

No.  228.  Lamb  Pie.  Cat  a  small  loin  of  lamb  into  thin  chops,  which  lighdj 
season,  lay  them  in  your  dish  with  a  few  slices  of  new  potatoes,  building  tbem 
ap  in  the  form  of  a  dome  ;  moisten  with  water,  cover  with  paste,  and  bake  as 
before. 

The  proper  way  to  coyer  these  pies  is  to  wet  the  edge  of  the  dish,  round 
which  put  a  band  of  common  paste,  pressing  it  lightly  on,  wetting  the  top, 
and  joining  the  paste  with  which  the  pie  is  covered  to  it. 

Pies,  as  I  have  previously  observed,  may  also  be  made  from  the  remains  of 
any  joints,  first  hashing  the  meat  from  them,  which  cut  into  large  slices  and 
well  season  ;  when  quite  cold,  fill  your  pie>dish,  building  it  in  a  dome,  two 
inches  above  the  rim  of  your  dish ;  place  a  bay-leaf  over,  coyer  with  paste,  not, 
however,  too  thickly,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oyen. 

Any  kind  of  meat,  game,  or  poultry  remaining  may  be  hashed  and  con- 
verted into  a  pie,  as  above,  without  much  trouble,  thus  making  a  very  excellent 
dish  to  serye  to  table.  Or  the  remains  of  any  description  of  meats  may  be 
thus  dressed  :  lay  a  few  slices  of  streaked  uncooked  bacon  at  the  bottom  of  a 
pie-diBh,  over  which  put  layers  of  the  meat,  seasoning  well  between,  leaving  a 
space  between  the  meat  and  the  dish  all  round,  and  not  building  it  above  the 
edge  of  the  dish  ;  then  have  some  potatoes  prepared  as  follows :  put  about  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  potatoes,  well  mashed,  into  a  basin,  to  which  add  three 
eggs,  a  spoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  pepper, 
salt,  and  half  a  pint  of  milk ;  mix  well,  strain  through  a  colander,  pour 
oyer  the  meat  in  the  dish,  bake  half  an  hour  in  a  warm  oven,  and  serve 
yery  hot. 

No.  229.  Bee/ Steak  Pudding.  At  home  I  can  frequently  make  a  very 
excellent  dinner  from  a  meat  pudding,  made  as  follows : 

Put  one  pound  of  flour  upon  a  pastry  slab,  in  the  centre  of  which  form  a 
well,  in  wluch  put  half  a  pound  of  beef  or  mutton  suet,  whichever  is  most 
convenient,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  mix  the  whole,  with  water,  into  a 
stiflSsh  paste,  adding  more  flour  to  detach  the  paste  from  the  slab,  and  make 
it  dry  to  the  touch ;  then  slightly  butter  the  interior  of  a  round-bottomed 
basin,  of  the  size  you  may  require,  which  line  with  two  thirds  of  the  paste, 
rolled  to  the  thickness  of  half  an  inch ;  you  have  previously  cut  two  pounds 
of  rump-steak  into  slices,  the  thickness  of  two  five-shilling'  pieces,  and  as 
large  as  the  palm  of  your  hand,  with  a  certain  quantity  of  fat  attached,  or  if 
no  fat,  add  a  few  pieces  separately,  dip  each  piece  in  fiour,  and  cover  the 
bottom  of  your  basin,  over  which  sprinkle  some  pepper,  salt,  chopped  parsley, 
and  eschalots  (which  you  have  previously  mixed  upon  a  plate  in  the  follow- 
ing proportions :  two  teaspoon&ls  of  salt,  half  ditto  of  black  pepper,  two  of 
chopped  parsley,  and  one  or  two  of  chopped  onions  or  eschalots),  then  more 
meat,  and  seasoning  alternately  until  the  pudding  is  filled,  add  a  wineglassful 
or  two  of  water,  lay  a  bay-leaf  upon  the  top,  wet  the  edges  of  the  paste,  the 
remainder  of  which  roll  to  the  same  thickness,  with  which  form  a  lid,  closing 
it  carefhlly  at  the  edges  ;  have  ready  boiling  in  a  stewpan  upon  the  fire  a 


KITCHEN  AT  HOME.  697 

gallon  of  water,  in  which  stand  your  pudding,  having  previously  well  wrapped 
it  up  in  a  cloth,  and  let  hoil  continually  for  three  hours,  now  and  then  adding 
a  little  more  water  to  keep  up  the  quantity ;  when  done,  untie  the  cloth,  from 
which  take  the  basin,  pass  your  knife  carefully  round  between  the  pndding 
and  the  basin,  and  turn  over  upon  a  dish,  lifting  the  basin  carefully,  and  you 
will  have  an  excellent  pudding,  not  one  drop  of  gravy  escaping  nntU  you  have 
dug  in  your  spoon,  which  will  cause  it  to  eat  much  more  delicate  than  by 
breaking  the  pudding  on  purpose  to  fill  the  dish  with  gravy  when  going  to 
table,  particularly  if  soup  and  fish  are  served  before,  and  the  pudding  is  kept 
half  an  hour  waiting,  the  top  pieces  would  then  eat  very  dry  and  indigestible, 
being  deprived  of  their  succulence.  At  home  I  never  carve  such  a  pudding 
with  a  spoon,  but  lightly  cut  the  crust  with  a  knife,  cutting  along  the  top 
instead  of  down,  and  laying  a  piece  of  crust  upon  each  plate,  taking  the  meat 
and  gravy  from  the  centre  with  a  spoon,  thus  leaving  the  bottom  until  the 
last,  which,  if  any  remain,  is  excellent  cold.* 

The  above  may  also  be  either  steamed  or  baked,  in  which  case  it  will  not 
require  to  be  tied  in  a  cloth ;  to  steam  it,  place  a  quart  of  water  in  a  middling- 
sized  stewpan,  and  when  boiling  place  in  your  pudding,  cover  the  stewpan 
down  close,  and  draw  it  to  the  corner  of  the  fire,  replenishing  occasionally 
with  more  water ;  the  pudding  will  require  the  same  time  cooking,  and  is 
served  as  before. 

If  baked,  the  time  required  in  cooking  would  of  course  greatly  depend 
upon  the  heat  of  your  oven,  but  it  would  require  about  two  hours  baking  in 
a  moderate  oven,  which  is  the  best  adapted.  The  pudding,  when  baked,  may 
be  kept  entirely  to  be  eaten  cold.  Should  the  onion  or  bay-leaf  be  objection- 
able  to  8ome»  they  may  of  course  be  omitted.  Observe,  that  by  shakmg  the 
pudding  gently,  previous  to  turning  it  out  upon  your  (^sh,  you  will  mix  the 
gravy  with  the  flour  upon  the  meat,  thus  forming,  when  the  pudding  is  cut, 
a  thinnish  sauce,  without  having  a  greasy  appearance. 

This  very  long  and  minute  receipt  will  probably  surprise  many,  but  by  thus 
entering  into  it,  I  have  given  at  least  ten  receipts  in  one,  as  I  make  all  other 
savoury  puddings  precisely  the  same ;  the  following  sorts  most  frequently. 
I  sometimes  introduce  one  or  two  mutton  kidneys  in  a  steak  pudding,  which, 
although  a  very  old  custom,  is  nevertheless  a  very  good  one.  Mutton  pudding 
is  also  very  excellent,  especially  if  made  from  the  meat  cut  from  the  chumps 
of  the  loins,  and  made  similar  to  the  beef-steak  puddings,  not,  however, 
requiring  quite  so  long  a  time  to  boil.  Short  mutton  cutiets,  cut  without 
showing  the  bones,  with  sHces  of  raw  potatoes  between,  also  make  very  excel- 
lent puddings,  as  also  do  cutlets  of  lamb,  but  in  either  case  requiring  an  hour 
less  time  to  cook.  I  have  also  frequently  made  very  good  puddings  from  veal, 
rabbits,  poultry,  and  game,  all  of  which  are  very  acceptable  for  a  change. 
Venison  pudding  is  also  very  beautiful.  I  consider  it  a  pity  so  few  people 
make  any  experiments  in  cookery,  which,  like  other  arts,  is  almost  inex- 
haustible. Some  people  who  have  partaken  of  some  of  these  puddings, 
previous  to  their  being  sent  to  table,  have  said  they  were  sure  they  would  not 
be  approved  of ;  but  to  my  great  satisfaction  they  have  been  totally  deceived. 

For  the  veal  pudding  I  cut  slices  (from  any  part  of  the  leg)  about  the  same 

*  It  would  be  very  easy  .to  ascertain  when  done,  by  running  a  packing-needle  or  sharp- 
pointed  knifs  through,  if  tender  it  is  done;  this  remark  also  applies  to  any  description  of 
meat  pies. 


698  KITCHRN  AT  HOME. 

size  M  the  beef  for  iteak  paddingi,  and  pattern  into  a  ■ante^pan,  orer  the 
bottom  of  irhich  I  have  rubbed  an  ounce  of  butter,  seasoning  them  with  a 
little  pepper  and  udt,  adding  a  little  thyme,  and  a  couple  of  bay-leaTes ;  about 
half  cook,  and  leave  them  in  the  pan  until  quite  cold,  then  dip  each  piece  in 
flour,  lay  them  in  the  baain  with  a  few  slices  of  stradced  bacon,  finish  the 
pudding,  and  boil  it  two  hours.  For  young  rabbits  and  fowls  I  proceed  the 
same,  and  cook  the  pudding  the  same  time ;  but  to  the  last  two  1  frequendj 
add  a  spoonful  of  currie-powder  to  make  it  palatable.  For  ^eniaon,  I  pre- 
viously stew  it  well,  except  I  have  left  the  remainder  of  a  haunch,  whidi  1 
convert  into  a  hash,  making  the  pudding  of  it  when  cold ;  this  pudding  will 
require  very  httle  more  than  an  hour  boiling. 

I  frequently  also  make  puddings  of  various  kinds  of  fish,  of  which  one 
made  from  the  fillets  of  mackerel  is  very  excellent,  the  fiUets  cat  into  good 
slices,  rather  highly  seasoned,  and  laid  lightly  in  the  pudding ;  it  will  require 
an  hour  and  a  half  boiling,  and  must  be  eaten  very  hot  to  be  well  appreciated. 
Eels  also  make  a  good  pudding,  by  cutting  them  into  pieces  an  inch  and  a 
half  in  length  slantwise,  and  blanching  them  ten  minutes  in  boiling  water,  to 
extract  the  oil,  previous  to  putting  them  in  your  pudding,  before  making  which 
dip  each  piece  of  eel  in  flour. 


SECOND  COURSB,  KITCHEN  AT  HOHE. 

For  the  roasts,  second  course,  in  my  Kitchen  at  Home,  I  must  refer  my 
readers  to  that  series  in  the  other  department  of  this  work,  as  it  is  impos- 
sible to  explain  them  more  simply ;  so  also  for  the  various  methods  of  dressing 
vegetables  (there  so  fully  explained),  from  the  most  expensive  to  the  most 
simple ;  and,  to  avoid  repetidon,  pass  over  those  two  series  in  the  second 
course,  and  commence  a  short  series  of  simplified  second-course  dishes,  with 
a  few  plain  salads. 

No.  230.  Salad  of  Cold  Meat.  This  salad  in  France  is  very  much  in  vogue, 
and  very  frequently  made  with  the  remains  of  meat  from  the  pot-au-feu,  but 
any  meat,  eiUier  roasted,  boiled,  or  stewed,  may  be  used. 

Cut  your  meat  in  slices  (with  a  little  of  the  fat)  about  the  size  of  half-a- 
crown,  place  them  upon  a  dish,  with  three  eschalots  chopped  very  finely,  a 
spoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  one  of  chopped  tarragon  and  chervil,  and  a  Httle 
salt  and  pepper,  pour  six  tablespoonfuls  of  salad-oil  and  two  of  vinegar  over, 
toss  well  together  without  breaking  the  meat,  and  serve  either  in  a  salad-bowl 
or  upon  another  dish;  the  above  proportion  is  for  a  pound  of  meat. 

Another  method  is  to  have  as  many  slices  of  cold  potatoes  as  of  meat,  cut 
the  same  size,  and  after  well  seasoning  the  whole,  dress  them  alternately  round 
the  dish,  one  resting  upon  the  other ;  mix  two  spoonfuls  of  oil  with  one  of 
vinegar,  which  pour  ovei"  and  serve.  Spring  onions,  slices  of  beet-root,  and 
radishes,  may  also  be  introduced.  The  remains  of  poultry  may  also  be  dressed 
in  a  similar  manner. 

No.  231.  Lobster  Sal€td,  Break  up  a  lobster,  obtaining  as  much  of  Uie 
flesh  as  possible,  which  cut  into  slices,  have  likewise  two  hard-boiled  eggs 
also  in  slices,  two  anchovies  filleted,  and  two  cabbage  lettuces,  or  any  other 
salad  cut  up  small ;  mix  the  whole  well  together  with  a  fork  in  a  basin,  season 
with  half  a  teatpoonful  of  chopped  eschalots,  one  of  chopped  parsley,  one  of 


KITCHEN    AT   HOME.  699 

chopped  tarragon  and  chervil,  a  little  pepper  and  aalt,  six  spoonfols  of  salad- 
oil,  and  two  of  vinegar ;  when  well  mixed,  turn  the  whole  into  a  aalad-bowl 
and  serve.     Crab  may  be  dressed  precisely  the  same. 

No.  232.  Fish  Salads  are  also  very  good,  and  may  be  made  with  the 
remains  of  John  Doree,  torbot,  salmon,  or  brill ;  fillets  of  soles  sauted  in 
butter,  when  cold,  also  make  excellent  salads. 

Cut  the  fish  into  rather  thin  slices,  have  also  two  young  cos  lettuces, 
which  separate  into  leaves  and  cut  lengthwise ;  add  a  few  leaves  of  tarragon, 
a  little  chervil,  season  with  a  Uttle  pepper  and  salt,  six  or  eight  spoonfuls  of 
salad-oil,  and  two  of  vinegar,  or  according  to  taste  ;  mix  well  toeether,  turn 
into  a  salad-bowl  and  serve.  The  above  ralads  are  excellent  for  dinner  upon 
a  hot  summer's  day. 

No.  233.  Potato  Salad.  Peel  and  cut  ten  middling-sized  cold  potatoes 
into  shces,  and  put  them  into  a  salad-bowl,  season  with  a  little  pepper,  salt, 
a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  tarragon  and  chervil,  half  ditto  of  chopped  escha- 
lots, the  same  of  chopped  parsley,  six  spoonfuls  of  oil,  and  two  of  vinegar ; 
toss  all  well  together  without  brefdcing  the  potatoes,  and  serve.  Cold  haricot 
beans,  French  beans,  and  lentils  are  also  excellent  dressed  in  the  above 
method. 

No.  234.  Plain  Salad  h  la  Fran^aise.  Throughout  France,  but  in  France 
onl^,  this  simple  style  of  dressing  a  salad  is  fully  appreciated,  the  sight  of 
which  refreshes  the  eyes  and  revives  the  appetite ;  I  never  heard  (in  France) 
any  one  say,  after  a  copious  dinner,  this  is  too  much  and  useless,  but,  on  the 
contrary,  every  one  reserves,  if  not  an  appetite,  at  least  the  shade  of  one,  for 
the  approaching  salad,  the  simplicity  of  its  seasoning  and  iU  trifling 
expense  principally  causing  it  to  be  thus  popular  and  so  freely  partaken 
of.  I  have  never  given  a  small  party  at  home,  but  my  guests  have  been  at 
all  times  anxious  to  partake  of  my  French  salad,  which  I  simply  make  as 
follows : 

I  procure  a  quantity  of  salad  of  any  description  the  most  in  season  (all 
descriptions  of  salad  being  dressed  in  the  same  manner,  one  receipt  will  do 
for  the  whole),  but  my  favorite  salad  being  endive^  that  is  the  one  I  shall 
here  describe. 

Take  four  or  five  heads  of  very  white  endive,  detach  all  the  green  leaves, 
and  wash  each  head  well  in  a  pail  of  cold  water,  but  not  leaving  them  in  the 
water,  or  they  would  eat  quite  bitter,  which,  for  my  own  part,  I  do  not  much 
object  to,  but  many  persons  do ;  when  clean,  cut  each  head  in  halves  down 
the  centre,  cut  ofi*  the  roots,  which  throw  away,  lay  the  endive  in  the  centre 
of  a  clean  cloth,  which  take  by  the  four  comers  and  shake  until  the  salad 
is  perfectly  dry ;  then  put  it  into  a  convenient-sized  salad-bowl,  season  with 
three  saltspoonfuls  of  salt,  two  of  white  pepper,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar, 
six  of  salad-oil,  and  one  of  tarragon  and  chervil  chopped  very  fine,  then  stir 
up  lightly  with  a  spoon  and  fork,  and  when  well  mixed  let  the  guests  help 
themselves. 

Another  method  of  dressing  an  endive  salad,  which,  in  the  opinion  of  the 
generality  of  my  guests,  is  the  most  preferable  in  point  of  flavour,  is  to  rub 
the  salad-bowl  with  a  piece  of  fresh  peeled  garlic,  then  lay  in  the  salad  ;  have 
three  or  four  pieces  of  crust  of  bread,  about  the  size  of  shillings,  let  each  be 
well  rubbed  with  the  garlic,  season  and  stir  weU  together  as  ben>re. 

Should  any  ladies,  however,  be  going  to  partake  of  it,  the  bowl  and  crusts 


700  KITCHEN  AT  HOME. 

mast  not  be  bo  much  rabbed,  as  too  strong  a  flavour  inigbt  be  objectionafaae: 
this  last  receipt  is  only  applicable  to  endive,  every  otber  salad,  such  as  cos  or 
■  cabbage  lettuce,  is  plainly  dressed  as  in  the  first  receipt,  adding  more  or  loi 
seasoning,  or  tarragon  and  chervil ;  a  dozen  of  green  spring  onious  is  als>  u 
improvement  to  a  salad. 

To  make  a  profitable  family  salad,  a  certain  quantity  of  cold  roast,  stevf^ 
or  boiled  meat  (wbich  you  might  have  remaining)  or  poultry  mi^ht  be  intro- 
duced in  either  of  the  above  salads,  having  previously  cut  it  into  slices ;  toi 
may  also  introduce  a  couple  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  cut  in  rings,  with  slices  of 
beet-root,  cucumbers,  ripe  tomatas,  or  even  cold  potatoes,  but  then  a  licde 
more  vinegar  must  be  added :  from  such  a  salad  a  small  family  may  in  the 
summer  months  make  an  excellent  meal. 

No.  235.  Jelly  of  various  lands  of  Fruits.  Having  but  little  time  to 
make  very  bright  jellies  at  home,  I  usually  simply  make  them  as  directed  in 
the  few  following  receipts — they  are  excellent  and  full  of  flavour :  when  ia 
a  hurry,  I  generally  use  isinglass,  but  at  other  times  boil  three  calf 's  feet,  or 
two  cow  heels,  in  a  gallon  of  water,  and  when  well  done  pass  the  hquor 
through  a  sieve  into  a  basin,  and  clarify  the  next  day,  by  taking  off  evefj 
particle  of  fat,  and  putting  it  into  a  stewpan ;  place  upon  the  fire,  and  wheo 
boiling,  add  a  pint  of  water,  with  which  you  have  whipped  the  whites  of  sii 
eggs,  mixing  the  juice  of  four  lemons  and  two  ounces  of  lump  sugar ;  keep 
whisking  over  the  fire  until  upon  the  point  of  boiling,  when  take  from  the 
fire,  place  the  cover  upon  the  stewpan,  with  a  litde  live  charcoal,  or  a  few 
hve  cmders  upon  the  top,  let  stand  twenty  minutes,  when  pour  it  through  i 
jelly  bag,  pouring  that  which  first  runs  through  in  again,  untU  running  quite 
clear,  when  all  has  passed  through,  pour  it  into  a  stewpan,  and  reduce  it  over 
a  sharp  fire  to  about  a  quart,  when  put  it  by  for  use,  instead  of  isinglass, 
where  indicated. 

No.  236.  Orange  Jelly.  The  bountiful  supply  and  cheapness  of  this 
delicious  fruit  will  enable  almost  any  person  to  partake  of  this  excellent 
entremet. 

Procure  ten  middling-sized  oranges  and  two  lemons,  take  the  rind  from 
three  of  the  oranges  and  one  of  the  lemons,  as  thinly  as  possible,  which  put 
into  a  basin,  put  a  sieve  over,  through  which  squeeze  the  juice  of  the  oranges 
and  lemons,  then  put  half  a  pound  of  sugar  in  a  stewpan  over  the  fire  with 
a  pint  of  water,  and  let  boil  until  becoming  a  very  thick  syrup,  when  take  it 
off,  and  add  the  juice  and  rind  of  the  fruits,  cover  the  stewpan  for  a  few  mo- 
ments, when  again  place  it  over  the  fire ;  as  soon  as  boihng  commences,  skim 
well,  and  add  two  glasses  of  water  by  degrees,  which  will  assist  its  clarifica- 
tion, let  boil  another  minute,  when  add  an  ounce  and  a  quarter  of  isinglass, 
dissolved  as  directed  (page  592),  pass  the  whole  through  a  jelly  bag  or  fine 
cloth,  and  add  a  few  drops  of  prepared  cochineal  to  give  an  orange  tint ; 
when  fill  a  mould,  which  place  in  two  or  three  pounds  of  ice  until  set  quite 
firm  and  ready  to  serve,  when  dip  the  mould  in  hot  water  to  the  rim,  wipe 
the  exterior,  turn  over  upon  your  dish,  lifting  the  mould  straight,  but  gently 
off  from  the  jelly. 

As  the  sizes  pf  the  oranges  very  much  fluctuate,  and  some  produce  more 
juice  than  othera,  it  would  be  better  to  try  a  little  jelly  in  a  spoon  upon  ice, 
to  ascertain  if  of  the  proper  strength,  before  filling  your  mould.  If  handy, 
the  same  quantity,  or  a  litde  more,  of  reduced  calf's  foot  jeUy,  as  in  the  last| 
n  ay  be  used  instead  of  isinglass. 


KITCHEN  AT  HOME.  701 

No.  237-  Whipped  Orange  Jelly.  This  makes  a  rery  pleasing  rariation, 
without  incnrring  any  additional  expense,  being  merely  when  the  jelly  is 
passed  to  put  it  in  a  bowl,  which  place  upon  ice,  and  commence  whipping 
the  jelly  until  upon  the  point  of  setting,  when  pour  it  quickly  into  your 
mould,  which  place  upon  ice  until  ready  to  serve,  when  dip  the  mould  into 
warm  water  and  turn  the  jelly  out.  Orange  jelly,  as  directed  in  either  of  the 
last  two,  may  also  be  served  in  the  skins  of  the  oranges  by  proceeding  as 
directed  (page  522),  and  serving  them  upon  a  napkin  with  laurel-leaves  be- 
tween, in  the  same  manner  as  oranges  for  a  dessert.  The  remainder  of  an 
orange  jelly  may  be  melted  again,  poured  into  glass  custard  cups,  set  upon 
ice,  and  served  upon  another  occasion,  if  sufficient ;  the  remains  of  a  clear 
one  might  be  whipped  and  poured  again  into  the  mould. 

No.  238.  Lemon  Jelly.  Proceed  precisely  the  same  as  directed  for  orange, 
but  omitting  the  oranges,  and  using  the  juice  of  eight  and  the  rind  of  two 
lemons ;  this  jelly  requires  to  be  kept  quite  white,  and  may  be  served  either 
turned  out  of  a  mould,  or  in  glasses,  but  not  in  the  skin  of  the  fruit,  it  being 
too  bitter ;  half  a  pint  of  bucellas  wine  may  be  added  to  the  above. 

No.  239.  Currant  and  Raspberry  Jelly,  Procure  two  pounds  of  fresh 
currants  and  a  good  handful  of  raspberries,  which  place  in  a  elf  an  cloth  over 
a  basin,  fold  the  cloth  up,  and  press  the  juice  through  it  with  your  hands, 
then  add  two  or  three  wineglassfuls  of  cold  water,  and  pass  the  whole  through 
a  jelly  bag,  make  a  thick  syrup  from  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar, 
to  which  add  two  ounces  of  dissolved  isinglass  (or  sufficient  cairs  foot  jelly), 
mix  the  whole  well  together ;  when  the  syrup  is  a  little  cool,  taste  if  palatable, 
place  a  tittle  upon  some  ice,  and  if  strong  enough,  fill  your  ^nould,  which 
place  in  ice  until  quite  set  and  ready  to  serve,  when  turn  it  out  as  before 
directed. 

No.  240.  Strawberry  Jelly.  Put  a  pint  of  water  in  a  stewpan  to  boil, 
have  ready  picked  a  basket  of  fresh  strawberries,  and  when  the  water  is  boil- 
ing throw  them  in,  let  simmer  a  minute,  add  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  place  the 
Ud  upon  the  stevrpan,  and  stand  by  until  half  cold,  when  run  the  jelly  through 
a  napkin  or  jelly  bag,  make  a  syrup,  and  add  the  isinglass  as  above,  but  using 
less  sugar,  finish  precisely  as  in  the  last. 

Either  of  the  last  two  jellies  are,  for  a  change,  also  very  excellent  whipped 
as  directed  for  the  orange  jelly.  It  is  almost  needless  to  mention  that  when 
calf's  foot  jelly  is  used,  not  quite  so  much  sugar  will  be  required  as  if  only 
the  isinglass. 

JELLIES  OF  LiaUEtJRS  AND  SPIKITS. 

No.  24 1 .  Mareequino  Jelly,  Have,  if  any,  a  quart  of  rather  firm  calf's 
foot  jelly,  to  which  add,  when  melted,  six  liqueur-glassfuls  of  maresquino,  and 
two  of  brandy,  pour  in  your  mould,  which  set  upon  ice  until  firm  and  ready 
for  use,  when  turn  out  of  your  mould,  as  before,  and  serve.  If  no  calf's  foot 
jelly,  isinglass  must  be  used  instead,  by  dissolving  an  ounce  and  a  half  of 
isinglass,  and  adding  it  to  a  syrup  made  with  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  half  a 
pound  of  sugar,  and  a  pint  of  water,  pass  through  a  napkin  or  jelly  bag,  add 
two  wineglassfuls  more  water,  with  the  maresquino  and  brandy,  when  partly 
cold  place  in  your  mould,  and  serve  as  before. 


702  KITCHEN  AT  HOME. 

Jelly  made  in  either  of  the  above  methods  may  be  flaromed  with  any  other 
liqueun  (the  qaantity  aaed  depending  principally  upon  taste),  aa  also  vicfa 
ram»  brandy,  or  whi^dcey,  which  last  are  more  fit  for  a  party  of  gentlemm. 

No.  242.  Syrup  of  Almond,  leed  d  la  Farmmenne,  a  substitute /or  Blame- 
man^e.  Almost  every  ordinary  cook  is  acquainted  with  the  old  method  of 
making  a  blancmange,  and  the  tedionsness  of  its  fabrication  ;  so  at  home  I 
make  the  following  substitttte :  blanch  and  pound  in  a  mortar  four  ounces 
of  sweet  and  one  ounce  of  bitter  almonda,  boil  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of 
sugar  to  a  thickish  syrup,  put  in  the  almonds,  let  infuse  twenty  minutes, 
then  pass  it  through  a  tamraie,  add  sufficient  dissolved  isinglass  or  calf*8  foot 
jelly  to  set  it,  with  a  glass  of  brandy  or  rum,  place  the  above  preparation  in 
a  bowl  upon -some  ice,  keeping  it  stirred  until  upon  the  point  of  setting,  when 
stir  in  a  pint  of  cream,  preriously  well  whipped,  and  pour  it  into  a  mould,  let 
remain  upon  ice  until  ready  to  serve,  when  dip  into  lukewaim  water  and  turn 
out  upon  your  dish.     The  flavour  of  any  kind  of  firuit  may  be  used  instead. 

No.  243.  Pineapple  Cream  is  what  I  now  frequently  make  in  the  sum- 
mer months,  using  the  West  Indian  pineapples,  which  may  be  procored 
remarkably  cheap.  Peel  a  small  one,  and  put  the  rind  into  a  stewpan,  with 
six  ounces  of  sugar,  and  two  wineglassfuls  of  water ;  let  boil  until  reduced  to 
a  very  thick  syrup,  when  pass  it  through  a  sieve  into  a  basin,  cut  the  re- 
mainder of  the  pine  into  very  small  strips,  which  put  into  the  baain  with  the 
syrup,  have  ready  boiling  half  a  pint  of  milk,  in  which  you  have  di88<dved 
rather  more  than  an  ounce  of  isinglass,  in  another  stewpan  have  the  yolks  of 
five  eggs,  over  which  pour  the  milk,  mix  well,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  it 
becomes  a  littte  thidush,  but  not  boiling,  when  pass  it  through  a  aieve  over 
the  syrup,  mix  well  together,  place  in  a  bowl  upon  some  ice,  keep  stirring 
until  upon  the  point  of  setting,  when  add  three  parts  of  a  pint  of  cream, 
preriously  whipped,  stir  well  in,  fill  your  mould,  which  leave  upon  the  ice 
until  ready  to  serve,  when  turn  it  out  as  in  the  last. 

No.  244.  Prussian  Cream,  Put  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  isinglaaa,  pre- 
riously dissolved,  into  a  bowl,  melt  it,  and  add  six  glasses  of  any  liqueur,  and 
two  of  brandy,  with  six  ounces  of  powdered  su^,  let  well  dissolve,  place  the 
bowl  upon  some  ice,  keeping  its  contents  stirred  until  upon  the  point  of 
setting,  when  add  three  parts  of  a  pint  of  whipped  cream ;  fill  your  mould, 
and  proceed  as  before. 

BOHEMIAN  JELLY  CBEAM8. 

No.  245.  Strawberry,  Pick  and  pass  through  a  fine  sieve  a  pottle  of 
very  fresh  strawberries,  to  which  add  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  six  ounces  of 
powdered  sugar,  and  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  dissolved  isinglass  (or  sufficient 
calf's  foot  jelly  to  set  it),  put  the  above  ingredients  into  a  bowl,  which  set 
upon  ice,  keeping  its  contents  stirred  until  upon  the  point  of  setting,  when 
stir  in  three  parts  of  a  pint  of  cream,  previously  whipped ;  fill  your  mould, 
and  proceed  as  before. 

For  cherries,  raspberries,  and  currants,  proceed  as  for  strawberries,  but  for 
apricots,  peaches,  apples,  pears,  quinces,  &c.,  proceed  as  follows  : 

No.   246.    Apricot  Bohemian   Cream,     Stone  and  cut  into  alioes  ten 


KITCHEN  AT  HOME.  703 

or  twelve  rather  small  apricots,  quite  ripe,  and  throw  them  into  a  stewpan 
containing  half  a  pint  of  hoiling  water,  and  let  boil  until  forming  a  puree 
when  pass  them  through  a  hair  sieve,  add  six  ounces  of  powdered  sugar,  with 
the  juice  of  two  lemons,  and  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  isinglass,  previously  dis- 
solved ;  place  the  whole  in  a  bowl,  which  set  upon  ice,  keep  stirring  until 
upon  the  point  of  settine,  when  add  three  parts  of  a  pint  of  whipped  cream, 
pour  into  your  mould,  which  place  upon  ice,  and  turn  out  when  ready  to  serve, 
as  before. 

Should  your  apricots  be  very  ripe  there  would  be  no  necessity  to  boil  them, 
but  merely  rub  them  through  a  sieve,  mix  the  lemon-juice,  sugar,  and  isinglass, 
and  finish  as  above. 

Creams  of  peaches  or  of  any  of  the  before-mentioned  fruits  are  made  in  the 
same  manner :  but  until  you  have  confidence  in  yourself,  it  would  be  better  to 
taste  for  the  sweetness,  and  try  the  stiffness  by  placing  a  little  upon  ice,  pre- 
viously to  finishing  it. 

No.  247.  French  Ctutard  Cream.  Have  ready  ten  custard  glasses,  or  small 
cofiee  cups,  measure  one  of  them  ten  times  full  of  milk,  which  place  in  a  stew- 
pan,  and  set  upon  the  fire  until  boiling,  when  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
powdered  sugar,  and  the  rind  of  two  lemons,  firee  from  pith,  place  the  hd  upon 
the  stewpan,  take  from  the  fire  and  let  infuse  ten  minutes,  then  in  a  basin 
have  ready  the  yolks  of  eight  eegs,  with  which  stir  in  the  milk  by  degrees, 
pass  through  a  tammie  and  fill  ue  cups  ;  have  ready  upon  the  fire  a  large  fiat 
stewpan,  containing  water  sufficient  to  cover  the  bottom  two  inches  in  depth, 
and  just  simmering,  stand  in  the  cups,  and  let  remain  still  simmering  until 
the  custards  are  quite  firm,  when  take  them  out,  let  remain  until  cold,  when 
wash  the  cups  outside,  dress  them  upon  a  napkin  and  serve ;  any  kind  of 
flavour  may  be  introduced  into  the  above  ;  but  for 

No.  248,  Cqfee  Ctutard  Cream,  proceed  as  follows :  make  half  a  pint  of 
strong  cofiee  according  to  the  usual  method,  add  half  a  pint  of  thin  cream  or 
milk  previously  boiled,  sweeten  to  pdate,  mix  with  the  yolks  of  eggs,  pass 
through  a  tammie,  and  proceed  precisely  as  directed  in  the  last. 

No.  249.  Cqfee  Custard  Cream,  White.  Put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  green 
Mocha  coffee  into  a  small  stewpan,  which  place  over  a  slow  fire,  tossing  the 
coffee  over  frequently  until  becoming  lightly  browned,  but  not  black,  in 
another  stewpan  have  boiling  a  pint  of  mUk,  take  from  the  fire,  let  infuse  ten 
minutes,  placing  the  lid  upon  the  stewpan,  dien  mix  with  eight  yolks  of  eggs, 
pass  through  a  tammie,  and  finish  as  before. 

No.  250.  Chocolate  Custard  Cream.  Scrape  half  a  cake  of  good  chocolate, 
which  put  into  a  stewpan,  and  moisten  by  degrees  with  a  pint  of  warm  milk 
and  cream,  when  well  dissolved  mix  with  the  yolks  of  eggs,  and  finish  as 
before. 

Any  of  the  above  custards  may  he  put  into  common  tart  dishes,  Imd  set  in 
a  potato  steamer,  or  slowly  baked  in  the  oven,  should  the  above  process  be 
too  tedious  or  inconvenient. 

Any  description  of  English  boiled  custard  may  be  made  in  the  same  man- 
ner, but  instead  of  pouring  it  first  into  the  cups,  when  the  infusion  is  made, 
mix  it  with  the  yolks  of  eggs,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  thickening  (but  must 
not  boil,  or  it  would  curdle),  pass  through  a  tammie,  fill  your  cups  or  glasses^ 
grate  a  Uttle  nutmeg  over  each,  and  serve  when  quite  cold. 


704  KITCBIH  AT  ROMB. 

No.  251.  Almond  Outtard  Crtam.    llieilaTOiirof  almondiy  whichsppon 
to  be  to  generally  liked  in  En^and,  and  which  were  I  to  omit  in  cnstani  I 
thonld  consider  it  to  be  a  piece  of  neglect,  ii  generally  obtained  by  the  use  of 
an  essence  which  I  cannot  at  all  approve  of,  bat  consider  the  following  method 
to  obtain  that  defidoos  flaronr  to  be  mnch  more  commendable :  blanch  and 
skin  two  onnces  of  sweet  with  a  few  bitter  almonds,  pound  them  well,  with 
■officient  sugar  to  sweeten  a  pint  of  milk,  which  you  have  in  a  stewpan,  when 
boiling  throw  in  the  almonds  and  sugar,  coTer  the  stewpan,  let  infuse  tea 
minutes  in  another  stewpan,  have  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs,  upon  which  poor 
tiie  inftision,  s(irring  it  well  and  mixing  b^  degrees,  stir  over  the  fire  until 
thickening,  when  pass  it  through  a  tammie  mto  a  bowl,  which  place  upon  ice, 
or  in  cold  water,  keeping  it  sturred  until  quite  cold,  when  mix  a  gill  of  creaia 
whipped  very  stiff,  fill  your  cups,  sprinkle  crushed  ratafias  over,  and  theysre 
reaay  to  serve. 

By  adding  a  little  dissolved  isinglass  to  the  above  when  cooling,  any  de- 
scription of  spirits  or  liqueun  may  be  introduced. 

liie  cream  may  be  onutted,  it  will  then  make  a  good  plain  custard. 

No.  252.  Cabinet  Pudding,    Well  butter  a  plain  round  mould  or  basin, 
round  the  interior  of  whidi  stick  a  quantity  of  dried  cherries,  or  Smyrna 
raisins,  then  about  three  parts  fiU  the  mould  with  sponge  cake,  inter^ieising 
two  ounces  of  ratafias,  over  which  sprinkle  a  good  glass  of  brandy,  then  have 
ready  the  following  custard :  boil  a  pint  of  milk,  in  which  infuse  the  rind  of 
two  lemons,  free  from  pith,  in  a  basin,  have  six  whole  e^s,  which  weU  whisk, 
with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  powdered  suear,  and  addthe  milk  by  degrees, 
pass  through  a  tammie  and  fill  up  the  mould,  round  the  edge  of  which  puce  a 
band  of  buttered  paper,  have  a  convenient-sixed  stewpan,  with  about  two  inches 
in  depth  of  boiling  water,  place  in  your  pudding,  cover  a  sheet  of  p^>er  over, 
and  let  simmer  gently  over  the  fire,  keeping  the  stewpan  covered  down  close 
until  the  pudding  becomes  quite  farm,  by  which  time  you  should  be  ready  to 
serve  it,*  take  out,  detach  the  paper,  and  turn  from  the  mould  over  upon  a 
dish  ;  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  put  half  a  pint  of  melted  butter  into  a 
stewpan,  into  which  stir  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  and  add  a  glassful  of  brandy, 
with  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  sufBcient  sufl;ar  to  sweeten  it,  stir  over  the 
fire  until  becoming  a  little  thick,  when  pass  it  urough  a  tammie,  sauce  over  the 
pudding  and  serve. 

No.  253.  Bread  Pudding.  Procure  four  French  rolls,  the  crumb  of 
which  put  into  a  basin,  with  a  pint  of  boiling  milk,  let  remain  until  half  cold, 
when  add  six  whole  e^s,  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  currants,  and  one 
ounce  of  candied  citron,  cut  into  very  small  dice,  mix  the  whole  well  together ; 
have  ready  prepared  as  in  the  last  a  plain  round  mould,  in  which  pour  the 
above  mixture,  steam  it  as  in  the  last ;  when  done  and  ready  to  serv^  turn 
firom  the  mould,  and  serve  with*  the  same  sauce  poured  over  as  before 
directed. 

No.  254.  Ground  Biee  Pudding,  Place  a  pint  of  milk  in  a  stewpan 
over  the  fire,  and  when  boUing  throw  in  the  rind  of  a  lemon,  cut  as  thinly 
as  possible,  and  quite  free  from  pith  ;  take  from  the  fire,  cover  the  stewpan, 
and  leave  ten  minutes  to  infuse;  then  in  a  basin  have  six  ounces  of  ground 
rice,  which  mix  smoothly  with  half  a  pint  of  cold  milk,  take  out  the  lemon- 
peel  firom  the  milk  in  the  stewpan,  pour  in  the  mixture,  and  stir  the  whole 
over  the  fire  until  thickening,  when  take  from  the  fire ;  add  six  whole  e^;8, 


KITCHEN  AT  HOME.  705 

BIX  onnces  of  ppvdered  sugar  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  mix  the  whole  well 
together,  have  ready,  well  buttered,  a  pudding-dish,  into  which  pour  the 
mixture,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  set ;  serve  hot. 

No.  255.  Rice  Pudding.  Well  wash  six  ounces  of  Carolina  rice  Ih  one 
or  two  waters,  drain  and  dry  it  upon  a  cloth,  and  put  it  into  a  stewpan  with 
a  pint  and  a  half  of  cold  milk  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  place  the 
stewpan  over  a  moderate  fire,  allowing  its  contents  to  simmer  very  gently 
until  the  rice  becomes  quite  tender,  when  add  six  whole  eggs  well  whipped, 
six  ounces  of  sugar,  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg ;  pour  into  a  buttered  puddings 
dish,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  set  and  nicely  coloured ;  serve  hot  as 
before. 

Sago,  tapioca,  semoulina,  and  vermicelli  puddings  are  made  very  similar 
to  the  last,  and  served  the  same ;  they  may  of  course  be  flavoured  with 
lemon,  any  description  of  spice  approved  of,  or  a  couple  of  glasses  of 
brandy,  rum,  noyeau,  maresquino,  or  almost  any  description  of  wine,  spirits^ 
or  liqueurs. 

No.  256.  Macaroni  Pudding.  Have  half  a  pound  of  macaroni,  which  boil 
in  half  a  gallon  of  water  until  becoming  tender,  when  drain  it  upon  a  sieve ; 
have  ready  boiling  in  a  stewpan  half  a  pint  of  milk,  in  which  put  the  maca- 
roni (having  previously  cut  it  into  pieces  an  inch  in  length),  with  a  quarter 
of  a  poimd  of  butter  and  the  rind  of  a  lemon,  free  from  pith,  tied  in  a  bunch ; 
let  simmer  gently  about  twenty  minutes,  when  take  out  the  lemon-peel  and 
add  six  whole  eggs,  well  whisked,  with  six  ounces  of  sugar ;  have  ready  a  pud- 
ding-dish well  buttered,  into  which  pour  the  above  preparation  ;  bake  and 
serve  as  before. 

No.  257.  Gateau  of  Rice,  Well  wash  half  a  pound  of  Carolina  rice,  which 
well  drain  and  put  into  a  stewpan  with  a  quart  of  milk,  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  butter,  and  a  few  sticks  of  cinnamon ;  let  simmer  over  a  slow  fire  until  the 
rice  is  very  tender,  and  the  "^hole  becoming  thickish,  when  take  out  the 
pieces  of  cinnamon ;  add  six  ounces  of  powdered  sugar  and  eight  whole  eggs, 
stir  in  quickly  over  the  fire  until  becoming  again  thickish,  when  have  ready 
a  plain  oval  mould,  well  butter  the  interior,  lay  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper  at 
the  bottom,  pour  in  the  above,  filling  the  mould  to  within  three  quarters  of 
an  inch  from  the  rim,  and  place  in  a  moderate  oven,  where  let  remain  until 
set  quite  firm,  when  take  f^om  the  oven,  turn  out  of  your  mould  upon  a  dish, 
and  serve  quite  hot,  with  a  sauce  over,  as  directed  for  cabinet  pudding. 
Gateaux  of  macaroni,  vermicelli,  &c.,  may  also  be  made  by  the  above  direc- 
tions, preparing  them  as  for  pudding,  but  making  the  mixture  as  directed  for 
the  rice. 

No.  258.  Fruit  Puddings,  As  almost  every  description  of  fruit  pudding  is 
made  in  the  same  manner,  I  consider  it  would  be  entirely  useless  to  enter  into 
their  details,  so  shall  here  content  myself  with  merely  giving  a  description  of 
the  apple  pudding,  which,  although  one  of  the  most  common,  is  in  my 
opinion  one  of  the  best. 

Put  a  pound  of  flour  upon  your  pastry  slab,  with  which  mix  half  a  pound  of 
beef  suet,  well  shred  and  finely  chopped,  make  a  hole  in  the  centre,  in  which 
pour  nearly  half  a  pint  of  water,  mixing  the  flour  and  suet  in  by  degrees^  and 
shaking  the  whole  hghtly  together,  then  take  two  thirds,  which  roll  up  inta 

45 


706  KITCHSN  AT  HOME. 

a  ball,  and  with  the  rolling-pin  form  it  into  aroiindaheet»n€ariv]inIf  mindi 
in  thickneM ;  have  ready  a  round-bottomed  basin,  well  battered  and  ficored, 
which  line  with  the  theet  of  paste,  keeping  it  aboat  an  inch  above  the  rim  of 
the  baain ;  have  also  ready  sufficient  apples  peeled  and  cut  in  slices,  with  whidi 
fill  the  interior,  adding  a  piece  of  butter  tiie  aise  of  a  walnut,  six  ounces  of 
powdered  or  Kurown  sugar,  six  or  eight  cloves,  and  a  httle  erated  nutmeg ; 
wet  round  the  edge  of  the  paste  aboTe  the  basin,  roll  out  the  remainder  to 
form  a  lid  of  about  the  same  thickness,  lay  it  over  the  top,  joining  them  wdi 
together,  then  tie  the  pudding  with  the  basin  in  a  cloth ;  have  ready  a  good- 
sised  stewpan  over  the  fire,  three  parts  full  of  boiling  water,  into  which  put 
the  puddinff,  boilins  it  about  an  hour  and  a  half :  when  done  and  ready  to 
serve  take  it  from  the  cloth,  pass  your  knife  carefully  round  the  sides  between 
the  pudding  and  the  basin,  turn  over  upon  a  dish,  lift  the  basin  finom  it  gently, 
and  serve  as  soon  as  possible. 

Some  people  prefer  the  paste  for  fruit  puddings  made  of  butter,  which  is 
also  very  good;   but  in  my  opinion  the  suet  paste  is  much  lighter;    the 
trimmings  of  puff-paste,  if  any,  would  also  make  an  excellent  crust  for  a        jj 
fruit.  =' 

Puddings  of  gooseberries,  cherries,  cunrantSy  raspberries,  plums,  damsons, 
&c.,  are  inade  precisely  the  same,  but  omitting  the  cloves^  nutm^  and  piece 
of  batter,  and  less  boihng. 

No.  259.  Pastry .  For  the  making  of  good  puff-paste  I  could  not  give  a 
more  simple  receipt  than  that  (page  479)  in  the  other  department,  to  which 
I  must  refer  my  readers,  as  also  for  hslf-puff-paste  (page  480),  which  will  be 
found  very  serriceable  in  the  making  of  pies  or  fruit  tarts,  the  method  of 
making  which  it  is  here  my  intention  to  describe,  but  for  all  other  dishes  of 
small  fancy  pastry,  a  great  variety  will  be  found  in  the  Kitchen  of  the  Wealthy, 
very  simply  explsined,  and  requiring  no  greater  convenience  to  make  than 
what  my  Kitclwn  at  Home  will  afford. 

No.  260.  Short  Ffutefw  Fruit  Tart§.  Although  I  have  above  stated  that 
the  haif-puff-paste  is  very  excellent  for  the  covering  of  fruit  tarts,  I  am  also 
awaie  that  very  many  persons  prefer  a  short  sweet  paste,  as  such  1  have  given 
the  following  receipt,  leaving  my  readers  to  choose  between  the  two,  the 
process  being  the  same  for  either. 

Put  a  pound  of  flour  upon  your  pastry  slab,  with  six  ounces  of  butter,  and 
rub  them  well  together  with  your  hands,  then  make  a  hole  in  the  centre,  in 
which  put  two  ounces  of  powdered  sugar,  two  whole  eggs,  and  rather  more 
than  a  wineglassful  of  water;  mix  the  eggs,  sugar,  and  water  weU  together, 
then  draw  in  the  flour  and  butter,  shaking  the  whole  well,  and  when  dry  work 
it  together  lightly  with  the  hands. 

No.  261.  Apricot  Tarta^  For  tarts  the  apricots  do  not  require  to  be  too 
ripe.  Procure  about  two  dozen,  or  according  to  the  size  of  your  dish,  qplit 
each  one  in  halves,  break  their  stones,  and  take  out  their  kernels  which 
blanch  and  sldn,  lay  the  apricots  in  your  dish,  building  them  in  the  form  of 
a  dome  above  the  level  of  your  dish,  and  interspersing  the  kernels  here  and 
there,  cover  them  over  with  half  a  pound  of  lump  sugar  broken  very  small ; 
have  ready  sufficient  half-puff-paste  (page  480),  or  the  tart-paste  just  described, 
a  band  of  which,  the  ei^th  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  lay  round  the  rim  of  your 
dish,  preriously  wetting  it,  then  roll  out  a  sheet  of  the  paste  large  enou^  to 


«mv«HBB«?nPsmnK-!SiP! 


KITCHEN  AT  HOME.  707 

cover  the  frait,  and  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  wet  the  band  of  pasta 
upon  your  dish,  and  lay  the  cover  over,  in  which  prick  a  hole  in  each  side 
between  the  fruit  and  the  edge  of  the  dish,  forming  a  well  all  round,  and 
closing  the  paste  well  at  the  edges,  trim  round  with  a  knife,  with  which  also 
decorate  the  edges,  wet  the  top  well  with  white  of  egg  beat  to  a  light  froth, 
over  which  sprinkle  two  ounces  of  finely-powdered  sugar,  sprinkle  with  water 
until  the  sugar  is  well  dissolved  (but  not  to  run  off),  place  in  a  moderate 
oven,  and  bake  about  an  hour,  keeping  it  a  very  light  brown  colour,  serve 
when  cold. 

No.  262.  Greengage  Tart.  Procure  a  sufficient  number  of  ripe  green- 
gages, which  put  into  your  dish  whole,  giving  them  the  form  of  a  dome  at 
the  top,  and  if  about  two  dozen  covering  them  with  six  ounces  of  powdered 
sugar ;  cover  with  paste,  and  proceed  exactly  as  described  in  the  last. 

Any  description  of  plum  tart  is  made  precisely  in  the  same  manner,  as  also 
are  gooseberry,  cherry,  currant  and  raspberry,  cranberry,  &c.  and  all  requir- 
ing about  the  same  time  and  same  description  of  oven. 

No.  263.  Apple  Tart,  Peel  and  cut  about  two  dozen  russet  apples  in 
slices,  which  put  into  your  dish,  interspersing  them  with  some  lemon. peel, 
free  ^m  pith,  cut  into  strips,  about  six  cloves,  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg ; 
build  the  apples  up  in  a  dome  to  the  centre  of  your  dish,  and  cover  over  with 
half  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  then  have  rc»dy  half  a  pound  of  puff-paste 
made  as  directed  (page  479),  with  which  make  a  band  a  quarter  of  aU  inch  in 
thickness,  laying  it  round  the  rim  of  the  dish,  roll  out  the  remainder  of  the 
paste  to  the  thickness  of  a  quarter  of  an  inch,  and  large  enough  to  cover  the 
fruit,  wet  the  band  of  paste  upon  the  dish  with  a  little  water,  lay  the  cover 
gently  over,  pricking  a  hole  with  your  knife  at  the  top  to  let  out  the  air, 
closing  it  gently  at  the  edges,  which  trim  neatly  with  a  knife ;  egg  the  top 
over  with  a  paste-brush,  and  place  in  a  moderate  oven  to  bake,  which  will 
take  about  an  hour ;  just  before  taking  from  the  oven  sift  a  little  sugar  over, 
and  let  remain  until  melted,  forming  a  nice  glase  over  the  tart,  which  may  be 
served  either  hot  or  cold.  Brown  sugar  may  be  used  for  any  of  the  above 
tarts  if  approved  of,  but  I  have  given  directions  for  the  white,  considering 
that  the  brown,  although  commonly  used,  frequently  destroys  the  delicious 
flavour  of  sqme  descriptions  of  fruit.   The  salamander  may  be  used  to  brown  it. 

No  264.  French  Fruit  Tart.  Make  half  a  pound  of  paste  as  directed 
(No.  1 136,  page  481),  mould  it  into  a  round  ball  upon  your  marble  slab,  and 
roll  to  a  round  sheet  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  wet  round  the  rims, 
turning  the  edge  over  to  form  a  border  half  an  inch  in  depth,  which  press  noon 
with  your  finger  and  thumb  to  about  an  inch  in  height,  have  ready  about 
twenty  greengages,  or  any  other  description  of  plums,  split  each  into  two, 
and  place  them  in  the  interior  of  your  tart,  shake  some  sugar  over,  and  bake 
about  half  an  hour  in  a  hot  oven ;  serve  cold,  shaking  more  sugar  over  at  the 
time  of  serving.  They  may  also  be  made  with  apricots,  peaches,  cherries, 
currants,  raspberries,  cranberries,  or  gooseberries,  in  the  same  manner; 
but  if  made  of  apples,  the  fruit  must  be  previously  boiled  to  a  marmalade,  or 
stewed  in  a  stewpan,  with  sugar  and  a  small  piece  of  butter,  until  tender, 
previous  to  putting  them  in  the  crust ;  fruit  baked  in  these  tarts  is  also  very 
excellent  meringued  as  directed  (No.  267) ;  plain  whipped  cream  with  a  little 
sugar  is  very  good  for  a  change. 


708  KITCHEN  AT  HOME. 

No.  265.  Plain  Souffle  Puddings,  Put  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  stewpn^ 
with  two  spoonfuls  of  flour,  mix  well  together,  then  add  half  a  pint  of  miHr, 
with  a  little  salt,  and  two  ounces  of  sugar,  upon  wliich  you  naTe  rubbed 
the  rind  of  a  fresh  lemon  or  orange,  keep  stirring  over  the  fire  until  it 
thickens,  but  if  becoming  too  thick,  which  will  depend  upon  the  flour, 
add  more  milk,  but  if  the  contrary,  let  reduce  until  forming  a  fine  aoftish 
paste ;  when  stir  in  quickly  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  when  well  mixed  set  bj 
until  cold ;  you  have  reserved  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  which,  half  an  hour 
before  serving,  whip  to  a  stiffish  froth,  and  mix  well  but  lightly  with  tbe 
other  part  of  the  preparation,  pour  the  whole  into  a  deep  pie-dish,  preTiooslv 
well  buttered,  and  set  it  in  a  warm  oven,  when  about  half  done  cut  an  iih 
cision  in  the  top,  and  put  again  in  the  oven,  when  done  shake  powdered  sagv 
over  the  top,  glaze  lightly  with  the  salamander,  if  any,  and  serre  imme- 
diately. Better  the  guests  wait  a  few  minutes  for  the  soufiie  than  the  souffle 
for  the  guests. 

No.  266.  Smiffle  Rice  Pudding.  Well  wash  two  ounces  of  Carolina  ricc^ 
which  when  dry  put  into  a  stewpan  with  nearly  a  pint  of  milk,  an  oonee  of 
butter,  half  the  rind  of  a  lemon,  free  from  pith,  a  little  salt,  and  a  spoonM 
of  powdered  sugar ;  set  upon  the  fire  until  boiling,  when  draw  it  to  the 
corner,  where  let  simmer  very  gently  (or  place  the  stewpan  upon  a  trivet 
at  a  good  height  from  the  fire)  until  the  rice  is  very  tender,  when  take  it 
from  the  fire,  and  beat  well  with  a  wooden  spoon  until  forming  a  amoothish 
paste,  when  add  the  yolks  of  four  or  five  eggs,  mixing  them  well,  poor  the 
whites  of  the  eggs  into  a  bowl,  whisk  them  until  very  stifle,  and  mix  lighdy 
with  the  preparation  ;  have  ready,  buttered  lightly,  a  deep  pie-dish,  pour  in 
the  mixture,  and  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour  before  ready  to  serve  place  it  in 
a  moderate  oven,  serving  when  done,  and  the  moment  you  take  it  from  the 
oven.     Half  the  above  quantity  may  of  course  be  made. 

Souffle  of  ground  rice  is  made  the  same  as  the  above,  the  rice,  however,  not 
requiring  so  long  to  simmer  as  when  whole.  As  also  are  souffles  of  tapioca, 
seraoulina,  vermicelli,  &c.,  changing  their  flavours  according  to  taste,  using  > 
vanilla,-  lemon,  orange,  orange-flower  water,  or  a  small  quantity  of  any  de- 
scription of  liqueur.  A  few  currants  may  also  be  mixed  with  any  of  the  pre-  ' 
parations,  or  laid  at  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  as  also  may  any  description  <^ 
light  preserves. 

No.  267.  Fruits  Meringued.  Any  description  of  fruits  may  be  served  to 
tabid  meringued,  by  following  the  above  directions.  For  apples,  peel  and 
cut  six  into  slices,  which  put  into  a  stewpan,  with  an  ounce  of  butter,  half 
the  rind  of  a  lemon,  free  from  pith,  cut  into  thin  strips,  with  the  juice  of  half 
a  lemon,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  or  if  the  apples  are 
perfectly  ripe  not  quite  so  much,  place  the  stewpan  over  a  moderate  fire, 
tossing  the  apple  over  occasionally  until  quite  done,  half  fill  a  pie-dish  with 
them,  then  whip  the  whites  of  four  eggs  to  a  very  stiff  froth,  with  which  mix 
very  lightly  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  and  lay  over  the  apples 
in  the  dish,  shake  a  little  sugar  over,  and  set  in  a  slow  oven  until  forming 
quite  a  dry  crust ;  it  had  better  remain  in  the  oven  a  httle  too  long  than  not 
long  enough,  but  be  sure  that  the  oven  is  not  too  hot  when  you  put  it  in,  or 
it  would  catch  and  become  quite  black,  instead  of  being  what  it  should  be, 
a  very  light  brown,  or  gold  colour. 


KITCHEN  AT  HOME.  709 

Apricots,  pears,  &c.,  may  be  done  the  same,  bat  omitting  the  butter ;  for 
either,  cover  whilst  still  warm. 

The  above  fruits  also  thus  prepared  may  be  covered  with  a  souffle  of  rice, 
or  ground-rice  pudding,  and  baked ;  they  may  be  then  served  either  hot  or 
cold. 

No.  268.  Snow  Eggs  are  made  with  the  whites  of  eggs,  thus :  whip  the 
whites  of  five  eggs  very  stiff,  to  which  add  (mixing  lightly)  five  ounces  of 
sugar ;  have  boiling  in  a  flat  stewpan  upon  the  fire  a  pint  of  milk,  form  pieces 
of  the  mixture  with  a  tablespoon  in  the  shape  of  eggs,  and  drop  them  into 
the  boiling  milk  to  poach ;  when  set  rather  firm  take  them  out  with  a  colan- 
der-spoon, and  lay  them  upon  a  sieve  with  a  plate  under  to  drain  ;  when  all 
are  poached  your  milk  will  be  reduced  to  about  half;  then  in  another  stewpan 
put  the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  with  a  little  sugar,  and  a  few  drops  of  orange- 
flower  watef,  beat  well  together,  then  add  ^e  milk,  and  keep  stirring  over 
the  fire  until  forming  a  thickish  custard  (but  not  allowing  it  to  boil),  when 
pass  it  through  a  tammie,  dress  the  eggs  tastefully  in  crown  upon  your  dish, 
pour  the  custard  over  and  serve.  You  may  also  poach  six  or  eight  very  fresh 
eggs  in  water,  with  which  you  have  added  a  little  vinegar ;  when  well  set  take 
out  with  a  colander-spoon,  drain  them  upon  a  cloth  until  cold,  di'ess  them 
upon  a  dish,  or  in  a  flat  glass  dish,  pour  a  custard  over,  prepared  as  above, 
but  with  which,  if  handy,  you  have  mixed  a  little  whipped  cream. 

For  every  description  of  omelettes  I  must  refer  my  readers  to  the  series  of 
omelettes  in  the  other  department  of  this  work. 

No.  269.  Plum  Pudding.  Pick  and  stone  one  pound  of  the  best  Malaga 
raisins,  which  put  in  a  basin,  with  one  pound  of  currants  (well  washed, 
dried,  and  picked),  a  pound  and  a  half  of  good  beef  suet  (chopped,  but  not 
too  fine),  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  white  or  brown  sugar,  two  ounces  of 
candied  lemon  and  orange-peel,  two  ounces  of  candied  citron,  six  ounces  of 
flour,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  bread-crumbs,  with  a  little  grated  nutmeg ; 
mix  the  whole  well  toge^er,  with  eight  whole  eggs  and  a  little  milk  ;  have 
ready  a  plain  or  ornamented  pudding-mould,  well  butter  the  interior,  pour 
the  above  mixture  into  it,  cover  a  sheet  of  paper  over,  tie  the  mould  in  a 
cloth,  put  the  pudding  into  a  large  stewpan  containing  boiling  water,  and  let 
boil  quite  fast  for  four  hours  and  a  half  (or  it  may  be  boiled  by  merely  tying 
it  in  a  pudding  cloth  previously  well  floured,  forming  the  shape  by  laying  the 
cloth  in  a  round-bottomed  basin  and  pouring  the  mixture  in,  it  will  make  no 
difference  in  the  time  required  for  boiling) ;  when  done  take  out  of  the  cloth, 
turn  from  the  mould  upon  your  dish,  sprinkle  a  little  powdered  sugar  over, 
and  serve  with  the  following  sauce  in  a  boat :  put  the  yolks  of  three  e^s  in  a 
stewpan,  with  a  spoonful  of  powdered  sugar,  and '  a  gill  of  milk,  mix  well 
together,  add  a  little  lemon-peel,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  becoming  thickish 
(but  do  not  let  it  boil),  when  add  two  glasses  of  brandy,  and  serve. 

The  above  sauce  may  be  served  poured  over  the  pudding  if  approved  of. 

An  excellent  improvement  to  a  plum  pudding  is  to  use  half  a  pound  of  beef 
marrow  cut  into  small  dice,  omitting  the  same  quantity  of  suet. 

No.  270.  Currant  Pudding,  Put  a  pound  and  a  half  of  flour  into  a  basin, 
with  a  pound  of  beef  suet,  shred  and  chopped  very  fine,  and  a  pound  of  cur- 
rants, well  washed,  picked,  and  dried,  add  a  little  powdered  cinnamon,  or 
grated  nutmeg,  and  mix  well  together,  with  four  whole  eggs,  a  quarter  of  a 


710  KITCHEN  AT  HOME. 

pound  of  brown  sugar,  and  btlf  a  pint  of  milk,  boil  it  aa  directed  far  pi 
padding,  eitber  in  a  mould  or  tied  in  a  clotb,  but  two  boura  would  be  aoffi- 
cient ;  wben  done  turn  out  upon  a  diab  and  aenre  quite  plain,  or  with  asace 
as  above. 

Tbe  aboTe  mixture  divided  in  small  puddings  or  dumplings  about  the  aise 
of  apples,  boiled  about  balf  an  bour,  and  served  bot  to  table  with  m  littk 
powdered  sugar  over,  are  also  excellent. 

No.  271.  Sweet  MaecarooM.  Blanch  and  skin  half  a  pound  of  sweet 
almonds,  diy  them  well  in  your  screen,  then  put  them  into  a  mortar,  with  a 
pound  and  a  half  of  lump  angar,  pound  well  together,  and  paaa  the  wfaak 
through  a  wire  sieve,  put  it  again  into  the  mortar,  with  the  whitea  of  two  eg|gB» 
mix  well  together  with  the  pestle^  then  add  the  white  of  another  eg|^  pro- 
ceeding thus  until  you  have  used  the  whites  of  about  eight  eggs,  and  made  a 
sofkish  paste,  when  lay  them  out  at  equal  distances  apart  upon  wafer  pi^ier, 
in  pieces  nesily  the  size  of  walnuta,  place  some  strips  of  doMnda  upon  tbe 
top,  sift  sugar  over,  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven  of  a  yellowish-brown  colour; 
they  are  done  when  set  quite  firm  through. 

No.  272.  Bitter  MacearocnM^  or  Rata^Uu^  are  made  similar  to  the  above, 
but  deducting  two  ounces  of  sweet,  and  adding  two  ounces  of  bitter  almonds; 
they  are  laid  out  in  much  smaller  geJccs  upon  common  paper,  and  baked  in  a 
much  warmer  oven ;  wben  cold  they  may  be  taken  off  the  paper  with  the 
greatest  ease.  These  cakes  are  very  aerviceable  in  making  a  great  many 
second-course  dishes. 

No.  273.  Mince  Meat.  Procure  four  pounds  and  a  balf  of  kidney  beef 
suet,  which  skin  and  chop  very  finely,  have  also  three  pounds  of  candied  lemon 
and  orange  peel,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  citron,  a  pound  and  a  half  of 
lean  cooked  beef,  and  three  pounds  and  a  half  of  apples,  the  whole  sepantdy 
chopped  very  fine,  and  put  into  a  large  pan  with  four  pounds  and  a  half  of 
currants,  well  washed  and  picked,  two  ounces  of  mixed  spice,  and  two  pounds 
of  sugar ;  mix  the  whole  well  together  with  the  juice  of  eight  lemons  ana  a  pint 
of  brandy,  place  it  in  jars,  and  tie  down  until  ready  for  use ;  a  pound  and  a 
half  of  Malaga  raisins,  well  stoned  and  chopped,  may  likewise  be  added  to 
the  above. 

No.  274.  Mince  Pies,  Have  a  piece  of  puff-paste  made  as  directed  (page 
479),  which  roll  out  to  the  thickness  of  a  penny-piece,  have  also  a  dozen 
tartelette-pans,  which  lightly  butter,  cut  out  twelve  pieces  with  a  round  cutter 
from  the  paste,  each  the  sixe  of  your  tartelette-pans,  lay  them  upon  the  slab ; 
roll  the  trimming  of  the  paste  again  to  the  former  thidcness,  cut  twelve  other 
pieces,  with  which  line  the  tartelette-pans,  put  a  piece  of  mince-meat  in  each, 
wet  them  round,  place  on  the  lids,  pricking  a  hole  with  a  pin  in  the  centre,  and 
close  them  well  at  the  edges ;  e^  over  lightly,  and  bake  about  twenty  minutes 
in  a  moderate  oven. 


£ND  OF  RECEIPTS  FOB  KITCHEN  AT  HOME. 


711 


TO  MAKE  COFFEE  IN  AN  ECONOMICAL  MANNER 

BY   MY   MENAGERE. 


After  constant  supplications  to  my  menagere,  I  have  obtained 
at  last  a  valuable  receipt  of  the  method  of  making  my  coffee  at 
home,  which  I  must  say  she  may  well  be  proud  of,  having  been 
continually  complimented  by  my  guests  on  account  of  its  excel- 
lence. It  was  only  by  touching  her  vanity,  and  assuring  her  that 
it  was  not  to  obUge  me  but  the  pubUc  at  large,  that  she  permitted 
me  to  give  it  publicity,  on  the  condition,  however,  that  her  name 
be  appended. 

"  Buy  your  coffee  not  over-burnt ;  grind  it  at  home  if  possible. 
Have  a  middle-sized  filter  like  ours,  which  holds  a  Uttle  more 
than  a  quart,  and  came  from  Jakes'  or  Benham's,  1  forget  which 
(but  that  is  of  Uttle  consequence,  as  you  merely  want  the  receipt), 
pour  about  a  pint  of  boiUng  water  into  the  filter  to  heat  it  through, 
then  empty  it,  and  put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  ground  coffee  on 
the  filter ;  then  put  on  the  presser,  and  lastly  the  grating ;  then 
pour  about  half  a  pint  of  quite  boiUng  water  over  it,  put  the 
cover  on,  and  let  it  drain  through. 

"  After  three  or  four  minutes  pour  by  degrees  a  pint  and  a  half 
more  boiling  water,  and  when  well  passed  through  pour  it  from 
the  filter  into  a  very  clean  stewpan ;  set  it  on  the  comer  of  the 
fire,  and  when  a  little  white  scum  rises  to  the  surface  (not  letting 
it  boil)  pour  it  a  second  time  over  the  filter,  and  when  passed 
through  pour  either  into  the  silver  cafetiere  or  the  cups.  Sen^e 
boiling  milk  or  cream  in  two  smaQ  jugs,  and  white  or  brown,  or 
sometimes  candied  sugar." 

After  promising  her  a  fine  gown  for  her  kindness,  I  gave  her 
a  pen  to  sign  her  name. 


"  But  stop,''  says  she,  "  I  forgot  that  for  your  breakfast  the 
next  day  I  use  a  system  of  economy  which  I  think  wDl  please : 
as  soon  as  I  have  poured  the  coffee  from  the  coffee-pot,  I  put 
another  quart  of  boiling  water  over  it.  This  I  find  saves  me  an 
ounce  of  coffee  by  boiling  it  instead  of  water,  and  pouring  it  over 
as  before."  (Signed)  "  Irma  de  L'Ombre." 


712 


THE  FOLLOWING  IS  A  CORRECT  COPY  OF  A  MONSTER  BILL  0> 
FARE  FROM  A  PAPER  FOUND  IN  THE  TOWER  OF  LONDON. 

Qeoree  Nevil,  brother  to  the  fipreat  Earl  of  Warwick,  at  his  instalment  into 
the  ArchbiBhopric  of  York,  in  the  year  1470,  made  a  feast  for  the  NolulitT, 
Gentry,  and  Clergy,  wherein  he  spent 


300  Quarters  of  Wheat. 

300  Tuns  of  Ale. 

104  Tuns  of  Wine. 

One  pipe  of  spiced  Wine. 
10  fat  Oxen. 
6  wild  Bulls. 

300  Pigs. 
1004  Wethers. 

300  Hogs. 
3000  Calves. 
3000  Geese. 

300  Capons. 

100  Peacocks. 

200  Cranes. 

200  Kids. 
2000  Chickens. 
4000  Pigeons. 
4000  Rabbito. 
4000  Ducks. 


204  Bitterns. 

400  Hernsies. 

200  Pheasants. 

500  Partridges. 
5000  Woodcocks. 

400  Plovers. 

100  Curlews. 

100  Quails. 
1000  Eggets. 

200  Rees. 
4000  Bucks,  Does,  and  Boebucka. 

155  Hot  Venison  Pasties. 
4000  Cold  Venison  Pasties. 
1000  Dishes  of  Jellies. 
2000  Hot  CusUrds. 
4000  Cold  Custards. 

400  Tarte. 

300  Pikes,  300  Breams. 
8  Seals,  and  4  Porpoises. 


At  the  feast  the  Earl  of  Warwick  was  Steward,  the  Earl  of  Bedford  Trea- 
surer, the  Lord  Hastings  Comptroller,  with  many  noble  officers :  Servitors 
1000,  Cooks  62,  Kitcheners  and  Scullions  515. 

For  description  of  the  above,  read  the  introduction  of  French  Pot-au-feu, 
page  649. 


NEW  PAGODATIQUE  ENTREE  DISH. 


A   LA    SOYER.* 


The  union  which  has  been  forced  between  the  "  Children  of  the  Sun" 
and  those  of  proud  Albion  has  thrown  some  beneficial  rays  upon  our 
European  domains  and  costumes,  and  if  they  have  not  improved  our  manners 
and  habits,  they  have  at  all  events  changed  them. 

It  is  true  that  we  had,  previously  to  this,  reaped  marvellous  things  from 
the  "  Celestial  Empire ;"  but  the  English  nation,  always  eager  for  novelty, 
could  not  be  contented  with  their  (Ombres  Chinoises)  Chinese  shadows,  but 
must  possess  them  in  reality.  Since  this  astonishing  conquest  you  have 
Chinese  quadrilles,  Chinese  fashions,  exhibitions  furiously  Chinese,  and,  for 
certain,  several  millions  of  dollars,  which  are  every  bit  as  Chinese  as  the 
illustrious  descendant  of  more  than  forty  centuries,  whom  you  are  still  ex- 
pecting as  a  most  extraordinary  ambassador.  I  already  perceive  that  your 
shoes,  '^jolies  AnglaiseSy^  change  and  diminish  with  great  rapidity.  Even 
now  you  appear  to  walk  with  difficulty ;  really,  if  you  continue  this  practice, 
you  will,  hke  the  Mandarins'  ladies,  have  very  pretty  feet  for  sitting,  but 
very  bad  ones  for  walking.  The  intellectual  part,  which  is  covered  with  your 
splendid  *'  blonde  ch^velure,'^  will  suffer  as  much  as  your  little  feet ;  and  it 
will  be  a  contest  between  your  astonishing  and  gracious  Amazons,  who  shall 
have  their  hair  turned  up  first,  in  hopes  to  resemble  your  celestial  sister  and 
nuptial  companion  of  the  expected  plenipotentiary.  Your  beautiful  eyes,  I 
hope,  will  remain  in  their  primitive  purity ;  also  that  clear  and  rich  tone  of 
colour,  which  brings  to  mind  those  extraordinary  fine  visages  clair  de  lune  de 
Vantiguite,  The  island  of  Great  Britain  adds  to  and  preserves  this  superb 
and  almost  ephemeric  colour,  unknown  to  the  soil  of  the  Continent. 

You  may,  nymphs  of  the  ocean,  let  your  nails  grow  in  the  fantastic  man- 
ner of  that  captured  country ;  that  is,  near  an  inch  longer  than  our  insigni- 
ficant custom  in  Europe,  which  is,  they  say,  "  a  part  of  the  world  far  from 
being  civilized."  I  would  also  advise  you  to  use  with  moderation  the  beaume 
Cremeux  Houbigant,  which  will  preserve  them  that  beautiful  vermeil,  so 
greatly  admired. 

But  reflect  for  a  moment,  in  giving  full  scope  to  your  fashionable  taste, 
you  sacrifice  a  thousand  chefs-d'oeuvre,  and  entirely  forsake  our  illustrious 
favorites,  Mozart,  Rossini,  Meyerbeer,  Auber,  Handel,  and  many  others; 
because  you  recollect  that  the  harp,  guitar,  piano,  &c.,  were  not  invented  for 
the  Mandarins :  but  setting  aside  all  these  little  tribulations,  while  walking 
about  with  pain,  you  will  have  the  gratification  of  hearing,  "  There  goes  a 
lady  of  the  newest  fashion." 

*  Extracted  from  m^  "  D^lassements  Culinaires,"  lately  published  by  Jeffe,  Burlington 
Arcade ;  a  second  edition  of  which  will  shortly  appear. 


714  PAGODATIQUE   ENTKSE    DISB. 

While  discDnraiDg  upon  these  trifling  aubjecU,  I  did  not  perceiTe  to  OMr- 
moHB  Epicureui,  not  veiy  particul&r  in  fuhiona,  and  still  less  pmrtial  to  po> 
littcs  (vbich  proTca  the  difficulty  of  finding  Bcrerel  gmt  accomplishiKD>t 
centred  in  one  penon),  was  waiting  with  intense  anxiety,  to  hear  the  nnit 
of  the  notice  on  the  titte-page  ;  immediately  addreasing  me,  he  eiclaimed,  m 
our  satiric  Boileau  might  have  said,  "  Tout  ee  que  twv4  vener  de  d^biter  eit 
certainemenl  ftint  ^fa/,"  —  "  but  where  the  deuce  ia  your  new  pint  d*cntRt, 
or  entrte  diah  ?" 

I  be^ed  a  thousand  pardons  of  my  antagonist,  and  perceived,  to  my  pta 
■urpriae,  that  I  had  iOTOluntarily  left  my  culinary  laboratoir  to  nnderbike  a 
ephemeric  voyage  to  China.  After  an  apology  on  each  aide,  the  followiig 
dialogue  took  place  between  ns  : 

"  There  ia  the  model  of  the  dish ;  what  do  you  tbiok  of  it,  mxt" 


"  I  pcrcwve  with  pleasure,"  he  very  politely  replied,  "  that  I  have  not  lott 
anything  by  waitinzi  it  displays  greftt  taste  and  originahty,  and  poaaeasM  tbe 
»eal  of  innovation." 

•■  Allow  rae  to  take  off  the  cover." 


PAOODATIQUE  ENTEEE  DISH.  715 

**  Ah  1  what  is  the  use  of  those  divisions,  or  compartments  V* 

**  The  Chinese,  as  I  have  been  informed  by  several  celebrated  traTellers, 

amongst  which  yonr  great  diplomatist,   Sir  Henry  Pottinger  (to  whom  I  had 

lately  the  honour  of  being  introdaced,  npon  the  occasion  of  his  visit  to  the 

Club),  in  viewing  the  dish,  certified  what  I  had  previously  heard  from  several 

illustrioas  men By  the  by,  he  has  honoured  me  by  subscribing  for  a  set  of 

them — here  is  my  album,  and  see,  there  is  his  autograph :  * 


y0^^^^^^^^ 


— ^for  four  pagodatique  enMe  dishes ;  this  completes  the  service  for  the  pre- 
sent, but  in  a  short  time  a  complete  service  for  first  and  second  course  can  be 
easily  manufactured  at  a  reasonable  price.  But  to  return  to  the  subject.  I 
was  telling  you  that  those  gentlemen  had  informed  me  that  the  Chinese  have, 
upon  their  tables  at  their  banquets,  a  profusion  of  fowls,  and  birds  of  all  kinds, 
served  with  sauce  or  gravy,  a  plate  being  placed  before  each  guest,  similar  to 
the  European  fashion,  surrounded  by  three  or  four  small  saucers,  each  con- 
taining different  ingredients,  spices,  and  pickles,  suited  to  the  dish  they  partake 
of ;  each  person  tidies  a  wing  or  filet,  tnat  being  the  only  part  they  consider 
eatable.  They  then  cut  it  in  small  pieces,  on  their  plates,  and  dip  them  into 
the  different  sauces,  until  they  produce  a  favorite  seasoning  to  their  taste.  It 
might  not  be  to  either  yours  or  mine,  but  for  all  that,  I  do  not  blame  them." 

"  'Pon  my  word,  it  is  very  curious  and  clever ;  by  this  mode  your  plate  is 
free  from  incumbrance,  a  fault  with  which  I  always  reproach  our  nation." 

^*  I  have  frequently  heard  of  a  '  Potage  anx  nids  aoiseaux,'  we  call  it  in 
English,  birds'-nest  soup ;  it  is  said  to  be  of  the  most  astonishing  delicate 
substance." 

"  I  shall  shortly  have  the  pleasure  of  entertaining  you  npon  that  subject;  we 
will  now  return  to  our  new  •  plat  d'entr^e.* " 

Drawn  by  the  frivolous  fancy  of  fashion  and  foUy  of  the  times ;  why,  I 
thought,  should  not  I  endeavour  to  make  myself  as  ridiculous  as  any  other 
person ;  I  therefore  submitted  to  the  proprietor  of  a  large  cbina  establishment 
a  drawing,  from  which  he  executed  with  great  taste  Uiis  pagodatique  table 
ornament. 

"  The  several  advantages  which  it  possesses  are  easily  understood,  one  entrde 
may  have  four  different  sauces,  four  entries  the  varieties  of  sixteen,  or  of  eight, 
by  putting  the  sauce  double,  I  mean  two  compartments  filled  with  the  same 
sauce,  and  preserve  the  enlrie  as  the  Chinese  do,  au  natureL    To  add  to  its 

*  To  show  plainly  the  interior  of  this  dish,  it  has  been  drawn  one  size  hureer  than  it 
is  in  reality.  These  dishes  are  only  to  be  had  by  applying  to  Mr.  Soyer,  of  the  Reform 
Club,  or  at  Mr.  George  Smith's,  No.  57,  Couduit  street,  Kegcut  street,  he  being  the  only 
manufacturer. 


716  PAGODATIQUB  ENTRES  D18H.  . 

great  wiety,  snudl  dinnen  (ir^  reckerckU)  can  be  serred  upon  it  for  one  or 
two  persona,  the  sight  of  a  small  and  delicate  entrSe  will  sometimes  invite  the 
appetite,  where  a  large  entrie  approaches  too  near  vulgarity,   and  would 
produce  a  contrary  effect ;  to  know  how  to  lire  an  Epicorean  in  desire,  is  a  great 
art,  but  so  true  it  is,  that  if  all  our  wishes  were  accomplished  life  wooLl  be  sa 
enormous  burthen ;  and  nothing  can  effect  this  important  object   but  the 
delicacy  and  lightness  of  a  well-conceived  dish.     This  once  obtained,  a  first- 
rate  epicure  will  not  only  eat  with  a  greater  degree  of  zest  and  stimulation,  but 
he  will,  at  the  same  time,  enjoy  the  pleasurable  sensations  arising  from  lus 
keen  and  unerring  discernment,  that  the  sister  twins,  art  and  science,  hsTe 
been  busily  employed  in  administering  to  his  taste.      I  must  also  obserre, 
that,  from  his  profound  knowledge  of  the  rules  of  life,  he  will  always  bear  in 
mind  that  'moderation  is  the  goddess  of  health.'  " 

"  Very  true !  very  true  !" 

<'  For  instance,  a  real  epicure  is  well  aware,  and  can  appreciate  that  he  owes 
a!]  the  delights  and  pleasures  of  his  existence  to  a  good  state  of  health  ;  f<H- 
without  it  no  one  can  enjoy  the  pleasures  of  life,  and,  still  less,  the  pleasure  of 
d^gustation  ;  so  true  is  this,  that  even  the  company  of  our  best  and  beloved 
friends,  the  possession  of  riches  and  honours,  the  greatest  celebrity  and  glory, 
lose  their  charms  where  health  is  compromised ;  the  most  delicate  food  loses 
its  zest,  the  most  melodious  chords  of  music,  and  the  greatest  optical  delights 
are  evanescent,  the  beauties  of  nature  are  lost,  and  everything  is  without 
charm,  even  the  sun— yes,  that  sun  itself,  which  pours  life  upon  creation, 
importunes  our  wretched  frame  with  his  torrent  of  light  and  universal  splen- 
dour ;  which  proves  that  we  ought  profoundly  to  study  those  great  agents  of 
nature  which  preside  over  our  organic  movements.  Allowing  us  to  use  with 
moderation  what  our  senses  desire,  is  far  from  a  meagre  or  redoubtable 
privation  for  the  illustrious  disciples  of  Epicurus  ;  excess  and  want  of 
experience  have  often  been  tlie  cause  of  man  falling  into  the  greatest  errors, 
which  have  been  most  pernicious  to  his  health.  From  the  celestial  vault  the 
indefinable  power  desires  to  guide  us  safely,  and  by  following  his  divine  lesson 
we  shall  not  only  enjoy  extreme  happiness,  but  obey  the  dictates  of  our  great 
and  wise  Creator." 

"  I  perfectly  understand  your  argument,  and  have  often  recognized  the 
profound  truth  of  it.  If  it  is  not  asking  too  much,  would  you  be  so  kind  as 
to  name  a  few  entries  you  would  recommend  for  these  compartments,  and 
sufficient  dinner  for  one  or  two  ladies  ?" 

"  It  will  give  me  much  pleasure  to  do  so,  I  will  mention  several :  for  in- 
stance, if  a  dinner  for  two  persons,  I  would  serve  in  the  centre,  Jilets  desolea 
la  Hollandaise,  and  in  the  four  comers 

Deux  Cotelettes  d'Agneau  aux  Pois, 

Un  Filet  de  Volaille,  piqu^  k  la  Fur^e  de  Champignons, 

Deux  Quenelles  de  Lapereaux  aux  Truffes, 

Demi  Perdreaux  en  Sidmi. 

Escalopes  de  Ris  de  Veau  aux  Pointes  d*Asperge8, 
Quatre  Rissoles  aux  H nitres. 
In  the  centre.  Poulet  printanicr  piqu^  aux  Cressons, 

Deux  Cotelettes  de  M  out  on  k  la  lU/orme, 
Blanquette  de  Filets  de  Volaille  aux  Truffes. 


PAOODATIQUE  ENTREB  DISH. 


717 


u. 


i2 

'X 


Deux  Filets  de  Grouse  k  la  Bohemienne, 
Deux  Escalopes  de  Filet  de  Bceuf,  sauce  poivrade. 
Centre.     One  slice  of  Salmon  en  Matelote, 

Deux  Croquettes  de  Yolaillc,  a  la  Pur^  de  Foie  Gras, 
Un  Ris  de  Veau  pique  k  la  Financi^re. 

Deux  Grenadins  de  Veau  k  la  Palestine, 
Deux  Boudins  de  Yolaille  k  la  Richelieu. 
Centre.     Roast  Duckling, 

Deux  Eperlans  frits  k  la  Boulang^re, 
Salmi  de  B^casse. 

Deux  Ris  d'Agneau  pique  k  la  Puree  de  Choufleurs. 
line  Caille  aux  Feuilles  de  Vigne. 
Centre.     A  slice  of  Turbot  k  la  Mazarine, 

Un  Ailleron  et  Filet  de  Volaille  k  la  Marengo, 
Deux  Rissolettes  k  la  Pompadour. 

**J  can  also  give  you  a  few  plainer  bills  of  fare  for  the  same. 

Pommes  de  Terre  kls,  Maitre  d'H6tel, 
Carbonade  de  Mouton  k  la  Proven9ale. 
Centre.     Small  Rumpsteak, 

Un  Chouflcur,  sauce  an  beurre, 
Un  Pigeonneau  k  la  Jardiniere. 

Choux  de  Brnxelles  k  la  Cr^me, 
Minced  Veal  and  two  poached  Eggs. 
Centre.     Half  a  broiled  Fowl  with  gravy, 

Pomme  de  Terre  k  la  HoUandaise, 
Un  Filet  de  Bceuf,  sauce  tomate. 

Deux  Cotelettes  de  Mouton  k  la  Soubise, 

Quatre  Jerusalem  Artichauts  k  la  Bechamel. 
Centre.     Slice  of  Cod  and  Oyster  sauce. 

Minced  Beef,  sauce  piquante, 

Pomme  de  Terre  frite. 
• 

Stewed  Oysters, 

Two  Potatoes  plain  boiled. 
Centre.     Stewed  Rabbit  and  Onion  sauce, 

Two  Escalopes  of  Veal  and  Ham, 

Un  Brocoli,  sauce  au  beurre. 

'*  The  sauced  and  garnitures  of  many  of  these  may  be  varied ;  and  as  you 
see  in  some  of  the  lists  two  entries  only  served,  and  the  other  two  compart- 
ments filled  with  vegetables,  either  plain  or  dressed,  the  centre  remaining  for 
something  larger,  either  plain  or  dressed,  according  to  the  taste  of  different 
persons ;  but  your  good  judgment  will  enable  you  to  perceive  clearly  that  the 
variations  of  which  it  is  capable  are  almost  without  end.  I  beg  also  to  ob- 
serve that  tlie  dish,  after  having  been  placed  an  hour  or  two  in  a  hot  closet 
(as  it  is  customary  to  do  with  all  dishes  previous  to  the  dinner  being  served), 
will  retain  tlie  heat  nearly  an  hour,  without  applying  hot  water,  red-hot  iron. 


718  pAooDATiaxnt  kbttrbb  dish. 

or  spirits  of  wine,  wbich  always  prodnoes  a  disagreeable  efieet»  and  n  ofta 
the  cause  of  a  dinner  being  detained,  as  they  most  wait  till  the  lait  minstz 
before  this  operation  commences." 

"  This  essential  part,"  he  replied,  '*  added  to  its  elegance,  ^oldi  oot  not 
favorable  prospects  of  success  to  this  beantifnl  Pagodatique  dish ;  and  I  rally 
cannot  see  why,  in  a  dinner  of  eight,  or  ten  entrieM,  the  four  comen  cooU 
not  be  ornamented  with  such  dishes ;  as  they  would  produce  the  most  agR^ 
able  effects,  for  too  great  uniformity  in  a  service  is  not  Tery  picturesque,  aiui 
unfortunately  always  employed.  I  hare  only  one  more  favour  to  ask  d  you- 
it  relates  to  those  birds'  nests." 

*^  For  the  present  I  hope  you  will  excuse  me,  as  it  is  now  five  o'clock,  asd 
from  six  to  eight  I  have  several  petits  diners  tr^  reekerchSs,  which  reqasf 
all  my  attention ;  but  favour  me  with  another  visit  shortly,  and  then  we  viS 
terminate  our  culinair  conversation,  without  occupying  our  precious  tiae 
about  the  eccentric  Chinese,  but  will  confine  ourselves  to  their  nests." 

"  Tou  are  quite  right  in  mentioning  it.  I  should  be  very  sorry  to  impor- 
tune you,  for  I  know  too  well  what  it  is  to  wait  impatiently  for  a  dinner,  ui 
know  it  to  be  equally  as  bad  for  a  dinner  to  wait  for  you." 

''Both  are  very  bad,  but  the  latter  is  almost  unpardonable  to  t  td 
gourmet." 

"  It  may  be,  but  observe,  that  by  making  a  hungry  stomach  wait,  yon 
expose  it  to  commit  the  greatest  injustice ;  because  that  ungrateful  organ  vili 
make  one  believe  that  the  minutes  you  are  kept  waiting  before  dinoer  are 
longer  than  the  hours  spent  after." 

"  Your  argument  is  but  too  true,  sir ;  and  it  will  prove  to  you  at  the  sinte 
time,  that  there  are  immense  difficulties  to  be  surmounted  in  our  very  difficult 
and  complicated  profession,  independent  of  the  trouble  and  tedious  vork 
which  must  be  carried  safely  through  the  greatest  anxiety." 

**  Very  true !  very  true  I  I  wish  you  good  afternoon ;  aad  before  I  l«w 
London  I  shall  do  myself  the  pleasure  of  paying  you  another  visit.  Good 
day." 

"  I  can  assure  you,  sir,  you  will  be  most  welcome.  Oh,  by  the  by,  I  ^ 
sorry  to  call  you  down  stairs  again,  I  will  be  with  you  in  half  a  minute ;  kere 
it  is, — I  beg  your  acceptance  of  this  small  brochure^  it  is  a  receipt  for  titf 
most  reeherehS  dish  that  ever  wss  invented ;  it  Lb  extracted  from  my  gastrononuc 
work  now  in  progress." 

"Oh !  I  am  one  of  your  subscribers ;  when  will  it  appear?" 

**  Not  before  next  season." 

*•  Thaf  s  a  long  time." 

'*  Yes,  sir ;  but  it  is  my  intention  to  make  an  entire  new  work  of  iti  ^ 
very  different  to  any  culinary  work  previously  published.  By  that  I  do  Q0| 
mean  to  say  it  will  be  better,  and  perhaps  not  so  good  as  many  of  them ;  but 
it  will  contain  a  large  number  of  new  receipts,  written  in  a  style  which,  1 
flatter  myself,  will  tend  very  much  to  simphfy  the  present  system." 

''Let  me  see  this  receipt,  but  I  require  my  spectacles— here  they  sre.-* 
'  La  Crhne  de  la  Grande  Bretagne,  MacSdaine  /'  but  it  is  French,  I  am  sony 
for  that." 

"Why,  sir?" 

"Because  my  cook  is  English,  and  it  will  be  very  difficult  forhuntomsKe} 
as  he  understands  so  little  of  Freneh.'^  . 

"  Oh,  sir,  if  that  \b  his  only  preventive,  it  would  be  a  pity  to  deprive  yon  Oj 
having  it,  so  here  is  an  English  translation  of  it.  You  are  welcome  to  both,  uf* 
*The  Cresm  of  Great  Britain,'  oh!  thank  you!  thank  youl  1^^ 


« 


CULINARY  INNOVATION.  719 

it  at  home,  and  then  give  it  to  him ;  bat  is  it  practicable  at  this  season  of  the 
yearT* 

"  Quite  as  practicable  at  one  season  as  another,  for  it  is  partly  composed 
of  flowers  which  bloom  in  all  seasons." 

Indeed !  then  I  will  certainly  have  it  made." 

I  depend  upon  your  impartial  judgment ;  be  so  kind  as  to  let  me  know 
what  you  think  of  that  unique  composition." 

*'  I  will,  without  fail,  and  do  myself  the  pleasure  of  writing  you  a  note  upon 
that  subject.     Good  afternoon." 

'*  Good  afternoon,  Sir." 

It  has  been  reported  to  us,  that  as  soon  as  he  got  home,  he  comfortably 
set  himself  in  his  arm  chair  d  la  Douariire,  and  appeared  reading  with  great 
surprise  the  receipt  for 

THE  CELESTIAL  AND  TERRESTRIAL  CREAM  OF  GREAT  BRITAIN. 

Procure,  if  possible,  the  antique  Vase  of  the  Roman  Capitol ; 
the  Cup  of  Heoe ;  the  Strength  of  Hercules ;  and  the  Power  of 
Jupiter ; 

Then  proceed  as  follows  : 

Have  ready  the  chaste  Vase  (on  the  gUttering  rim  of  which 
three  doves  are  resting  in  peace),  and  in  it  deposit  a  smile  from 
the  Duchess  of  Sutherland,  from  which  Terrestrial  Deesse  it 
will  be  most  graceful ;  then  add  a  Lesson  from  the  Duchess  of 
Northumberland ;  the  Happy  Remembrance  of  Lady  Byron ;  an 
Invitation  from  the  Marchioness  of  Exeter ;  a  Walk  in  the  Fairy 
Palace  of  the  Duchess  of  Buckingham;  an  Honour  of  the 
Marchioness  of  Douro;  a  Sketch  fron  Lady  Westmorland; 
Lady  Chesterfield's  Conversation ;  the  Deportment  of  the  Mar- 
chioness of  Aylesbury;  the  AJBFability  of  Lady  Marcus  Hill; 
some  Romances  of  Mrs.  Norton;  A  Mite  of  Gold  from  Miss 
Coutts ;  A  Royal  Dress  from  the  Duchess  of  Buccleugh ;  a  Re- 
ception from  the  Duchess  of  Leinster ;  a  Fragment  of  the  Works 
of  Lady  Blessington ;  a  Ministerial  Secret  from  Lady  Peel ;  a 
Gift  from  the  Duchess  of  Bedford ;  an  Interview  with  Madame 
de  Bunsen ;  a  Diplomatic  Reminiscence  from  the  Marchioness  of 
Clanricarde ;  an  Autocratic  Thought  from  the  Baroness  Brunow ; 
a  Reflection  from  Lady  John  Russell ;  an  Amiable  Word  from 
Lady  Wilton ;  the  Protection  of  the  Countess  de  St.  Aulaire ;  a 
Seraphic  Strain  from  Lady  Essex ;  a  Poetical  Gift  of  the  Baroness 
de  la  Calabrala ;  a  Welcome  from  Lady  Alice  Peel ;  the  Sylph- 
hke  Form  of  the  Marchioness  of  Abercom;  a  Soiree  of  the 
Duchess  of  Beaufort ;  a  Reverence  of  the  Viscountess  Jocelyn ; 
and  the  Goodwill  of  Lady  Palmerston. 

Season  with  the  Piquante  Observation  of  the  Marchioness  of 


720  CULINARY    INNOVATION- 

Londonderry ;  the  Stately  Mien  of  the  Countess  of  Jersey ;  ifc 
Tresor  of  the  Baroness  Rothchild ;  the  Noble  Devotion  of  Wj 
Sale ;  the  Knowledge  of  the  Fine  Arts  of  the  Marchioness  rf 
Lansdowne ;  the  Charity  of  the  Lady  De  Grey  :  a  Criticism  froci 
the  Viscountess  of  Melville : — ^with  a  Musical  AccoinpaniiDeiit 
from  the- whole ;  and  Portraits  of  all  these  Ladies  taken  from  tk 
Book  of  Celebrated  Beauties. 

Amalgamate  scientifically ;  and  should  you  find  this  Jjfpard 
(which  is  without  a  pai'allel,)  does  not  mix  well,  do  not  r^ 
the  expense  for  the  completion  of  a  dish  worthy  of  the  Gods ! 

Endeavour  to  procure,  no  matter  at  what  price,  a  Virtuoas 
Maxim  from  the  Book  of  Education  of  Her  Royal  Highness  tk 
Duchess  of  Kent ;  a  Kiss  from  the  Infant  Princess  Ahce ;  sd 
Innocent  Trick  of  the  Princess  Royal ;  a  Benevolent  Visit  fiwa 
the  Duchess  of  Gloucester ;  a  Maternal  Sentiment  of  Her  Bojil 
Highness  the  Duchess  of  Cambridge ;  a  Compliment  from  tk 
Princess  Augusta  de  Mecklenbourg ;  the  future  Hopes  of  tbc 
Young  Princess  Mary ; 

And  the  Munificence  of  Her  Majesty  Queen  Adelaide. 

Cover  the  Vase  with  the  Reign  of  Her  Most  Gracious  Majesty, 
and  let  it  simmer  for  half  a  century,  or  more,  if  possible,  over  a 
Fire  of  Immortal  Roses. 

Then  uncover,  with  the  greatest  care  and  precision,  this  Mjs- 
terious  Vase;  garnish  the  top  with  the  Aurora  of  a  Spring 
Morning ;  several  Rays  of  the  Sun  of  France ;  the  Serenity  ofsn 
Italian  Sky ;  and  the  Universal  Appreciation  of  the  Peace  of 
Europe. 

Add  a  few  Beams  of  the  Aurora  Borealis ;  sprinkle  over  with 
the  Virgin  Snow  of  Mont  Blanc;  glaze  with  an  Eruption  of 
Mount  Vesuvius ;  cause  the  Star  of  the  Shepherd  to  dart  over  it ; 
and  remove,  as  quickly  as  possible,  this  chef-d* ceuvre  of  the  iw^' 
teenth  century  from  the  Volcanic  District. 

Then  fill  Hebe's  Enchanted  Cup  with  a  religious  Balm,  snd 
with  it  surround  this  mighty  Cream  of  Immortality. 

Terminate  with  the  Silvery  Light  of  the  Pale  Queen  of  NigH 
without  disturbing  a  Ray  of  the  Brilliancy  of  the  brightest  Queen 
of  the  Day. 

Note.  "  We  are  authorised  by  the  Author  to  inform  his  readers,  that  eTcn  up  ^ 
this  moment  of  finishing  the  printing,  no  answer  has  been  received  from  the  Gonrmct 
before  mentioned,  stating  his  opinions  with  regard  to  the  Cream  of  Great  Britain,  oa 
account,  as  we  have  been  informed,  of  his  cook  not  having  as  yet  been  able  to  ooinpl^ 
the  Dish.— J.  E.  Adlard." 


Theabmre  Cut  represents  ''TheI>inUuiie»niUNcl>un.''^5ec/xi9c5ia 


"  Fonlurdes  ea  Diodime." — Seepage  515. 


Voliore,  (No  101a) 


e  HonuTd.  (No.  104&1 


Tbne  Ciouatadaa  of  Bieod  for  tl 


Crouetedo  for  tae  Turks?  a  la  NsIbod.  (No.  6 


Lucils  Qnhn  aad  Canto's  8iiltue  Sylphe  ■  la  fills  da  I'Oraie. 
Gdroislj  with  a  SilTsr  Torpaiohorsmn  AMelsCla. 


B  L-Amirel.  iVo.  LOB.) 


Tine  Jally  Moulds,  hom  which  when  the  Jslly 
Att«lettee  of  Fruit. 


Thiss  Cylinder  Jslly  Uouldg. 


Attalettes 


The  abore  attelettes  are  quite  new,  the  four  large  ones  being  used  for  flancs 
or  removes,  and  garnished  as  represented  in  the  plate  containing  the  cronstades. 
They  may  also  be  garnished  with  vegetables  turned  of  a  good  shape,  and  lightly 
stewed.  The  one  representing  a  dolphin  is  used  to  garnish  dressed  fish,  but 
must  always  be  fixed  upon  a  croustade,  either  at  the  head  or  in  the  centre  of 
the  dish,  but  not  so  as  to  interfere  with  the  carving.  The  one  representing  a 
shell,  as  well  as  the  last  mentioned,  are  also  used  for  any  kind  of  aiguillettes  or 
hors  d'oBuvres  (page  161) ;  the  four  smaller  ones  are  to  be  lightly  garnished 
with  fresh  fruits,  and  fixed  upon  the  top  of  the  jelly,  the  moulds  for  which 
are  entitled  jelly-moulds  for  attelettes ;  the  heads  of  these  last  four  smaller 
attelettes  should  be  made  with  gold,  to  correspond  well  with  the  richness  of 
colour  of  the  jelly. 


rS-B- 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


To  render  the  Table  of  ContenU  more  intelligible,  the  mere  trantlatlon  of  all  ComestlUet  and  iagredienta 
have  been  introduced.    The  translation  of  proper  names  would  be  uselc 


PAGE 


FOUNDATION  BAUG£t. 


Brown  Muce  .            -           -            - 

1 

£8)Mignole  sauce  •            -           • 

S 

Brown  sauce  from  all  sorts  of  meat     - 

4 

For  thickening  brown  sauce  without 

making  a  roux      •            .            • 

6 

Velout^     -            -            .            - 

lb. 

Velout^y  a  plainer  way 

T 

White  sauce,  or  b^bamel  - 

ib. 

Sauce  Allemande  (or  German   sauce 

blanche    -            -           -           - 

8 

Demi-glaoe-         ... 

9 

THIN  BAucnu 

Sauce  an  jus  d'Estragon  (tarragon)     - 

ib. 

Jstt  d'Eatmgon  clair  (clear) 

10 

Sauce  au  jus  de  Tomates 

ib. 

au  jus  de  Champignons  (mush- 

rooms) 

ib. 

demi-proYon^ale 

11 

au  jus  Piquant  (sharp) 

ib. 

d'Echalotte 

ib. 

d'Orange 

ib. 

deBigaradef  (bitter  oranges)  12 

Jus  li6.demi  Currie 

ib. 

aux  Concombres  (cucumbers)  - 

ib. 

Truffles 

13 

Anchols  (anchovy) 

ib. 

fines  Herbes    - 

ib. 

petits  NaTets  (turnips) 

14 

Olives  -           .           • 

ib. 

8AUCB8. 

Sauce  aux  fines  Herbes 

ib. 

piquante  (sharp) 

15 

Robert  -           -           -           - 

ib. 

Robert  demi-proven^ale 

ib. 

i^ritalienne 

16 

k  I'ltallenne  (white) 

ib. 

poivrade             ... 

ib. 

poivrade  demi-proven^ale 
AlaBateliere     - 

17 

ib. 

i  la  Rtforme 

ib. 

au  jus  de  Grosellles  (cnmnt  Jelly)  18 


PAOB 

Saqce  aux  Tomates            -  '         ib. 

alaTartare                    -  -    19 

Papillote  Sauce                   •  •          ib. 

Sauce  &  la  Diable        -            -  -    20 

Corintbien    -            -  -         ib. 

Proven^ale  chaude         •  -    21 

k  la  Maitre  d'H6tel  -  -         ib. 

&  la  Ravigote      -            -  -    ib. 

d  I'Indienne  -            -  -          lb. 

Cuny  Sauce    -           -           -  -    22 

Sauce  Soubise        -            •  -         ib. 

•  Soubise  (brown)            -  -    23 

aiaMilanaise          -  -          ib. 

a  la  Financi^re  -            -  -    ib. 

auxTrufies             -  -            24 

aux  Champignons  (mushrooms)  -    ib. 

k  la  pur^e  de  Truiies  -           ib. 

a  lapur^e  de  Champignons  (mush- 
rooms)          -           •  -    25 

P^rigueux                -  -            lb. 

B^hamel  k  la  Crdme     -  -    ib. 

au  Supreme             -  -           26 

Velout^  de  Glbler  (game)        -  -    lb. 

Sauce  I  la  pur^e  de  Gibier  (ditto)  27 

au  fum^e  do  Gibier  (ditto)  •    ib. 

Demi-glace  de  Gibier  (ditto)  -           ib. 

Sauce  matelote            -            -  -    28 

Genevoise    -           -  -          ib. 

k  la  Beyrout    .  -            -  -    ib. 

k  Tessence  de  Poissons  (of  fish)       29 

4  la  Hollandaise  (Dutch)  -    ib. 

Chip&t  Sauce           •           -  .         30 

Lobster  Sauce             -            -  -    ib. 

Oyster  Sauce         •            -  -          ib. 

another  method     -  -    13 

a  plainer  method  -          ib. 

Muscle  Sauce  -           -            -  -    lb. 

Melted  Butter       -           -  -          lb. 

Anchovy  Sauce            -            •  -    32 

Shrimp  Sauce        -            -  -          ib. 

Demi  Maitre  d*HMel  Sauce    -  -    lb. 

Fennel  Sauce  -           -           -  -    32 

Egg  Sauce            -            -  -            lb. 

Lobster  Butter            •           -  -    33 

Anchovy  Butter  •           -  i.           ib. 

Maitre  d'H6tel  Batter             »  -    ib. 

Ravigote  Butter  -           .  •          ib. 

46 


TABLE   OP    CONTENTS. 


rAOB 
■ADCn  AHD  OABJUTURBa  Of  TKOBTABLIS. 

Piurfe  de  Choax  de  BraxeUes  CBnutell 

■iwouti)  •  -  -  34 

Sance  auz  Choax  de  Brnxellai     •  lb. 
HariooU  verti  (French  beans)  3^ 

Petit  Poll  k  I'AngUiae  (pew)       -  ib. 

Petitt  Pois  an  Laid  (ditto)      -  -  ib. 

Pai^  de  Foil  fert  (ditto)  -  ib. 

AlaPaletttne(ofartlehokei)  -  36 

Paleatine  k  la  Bourgeoiae  -  -  ib. 

Paleatine  an  nuiigre     «•  -  -  ib. 

Pnrto  d'Artichaati  (artichokea)     •  37 

Par^  k  la  Palestine  maigre     •  -  ib. 

Navet*  Vienpn  (toinipt)    -  -  ib. 

lUffoat  de  Naveti  k  brun  (ditto)  •  38 

Pui^  de  Navels  k  blanc  (ditto)      •  ib, 

PortSe  Navets  4  bran  (ditto)  -  38 

Sauce  anx  Choaxflenn  (cauliflower)  39 

Pur^  de  Chonxflears  (ditto)  -  -  ib. 

MaoMoine  de  L^gnmea  (vegetables)  lb. 

(brown)  -            -  40 
Jardiniere  (vegetables)                   -  ib. 
Pointea  d'Asperges  en  petits-pols         •  41 
Pnr^e  d'Asperges  (sprue  grass)      -  ib* 
Concombres  i  blanc  (encumbers)         -  ib. 
Concom'ires  a  bmn      -            -            %  ^^ 
Pur^e  Qe  Concombres        -            -  Ib 
Epinard  an  Jus  (spinach)          -            -  43 
Blanched  Mnshrooms         -            -  ib. 
Por6e  d'Oseille  (sorrel)           -            -  44 
Ragout  aux  jeuoes  Racines  (young  ve- 
getables -           -            -  Ib. 
de  petits  Gignons  (onions)       -  ib. 
de  petits  Oignons  k  blanc   -  46 
Garniture  de  fond  d'Artichauts            -  ib. 
de  Haricots  blancs  nouveaux  ib. 
Gros  Oignons  fards  (beans)    •            -  40 
Stewed  Cabbage  Lettuce    -           -  ib. 
Chou  brais^  and  Cboucroute    -            .  lb. 
Stewed  Celery  for  Garniture  and  Celery 

Sauce-  -  -  -  4T 

Cbouxfleuis  for  garnitures  (cauliflowers)  ib. 

Cbicoree,  or  Endive  Sauce  •  -  48 

jippendis  to  the  Sauces, 

Forcemeat  of  Veal  ...  48 

Forcemeat  of  Rabbits  •  -  -  49 

Fowl  -  .  Ib. 

Game     -  -  -  60 

Whitings      -  -  ib. 

Panada  for  Forcemeats  .  -  ib. 

Forcemeat  of  Cod's  Liver  -  .  ib. 

Veal  Stuffing  -  .  -  *  51 

To  prepare  Cockscombs     -  -  ib. 

To  boil  Rice   -  ..  -  -  ib. 

To  blanch  Macaroni  -  •  5S 

Croquettes  de  Pommes  de  Terre  (pota- 
toes) .  -  -        .  ib. 

Glaze        -  -  -  -  lb. 


PASS 

poTAOis  om  eoupa. 

Qear  light  Broth,  or  first  Stock  •  £3 

Consomm^.,  or  dear  Soa|i  -  .        ik 

Brown  Gravy  -            -             .  •  M 

Potage  i  la  Victoria            -  -        M 

Louis  Philippe       -  -  5T 

Prince  of  Wales  -        ft. 

Comte  de  Pari^      -  -   ^ 

Prinoesse  Royale  -        ^ 

Saxe  Cobonrif        •  -  M 

Comtesso          -  -        tl 

Gnssham  •             -  -  ft- 

Colbert             -  -        ti 

Clermont  -             -  -  ft* 

MaoAtoine  de  L^umee  63 

k  la  Jardiniere              -  -   ft- 

Julienne           -  .        ik 

anx  petits  Navets  a  hnm  (tnniip«)M 

i  la  Printanidre       •  .        ft. 

Jerusalem              -  '  ^ 

Marcus  Hill    -  -        ik 

anx  pointes  d'Asperges  et  (Enb 

poch^  (asparsgos  and  poached  tgp)  M 

er 

Ik 

ft. 

N 

ih. 
I» 
ft 
71 

ft. 

71 

ik 

T2 
ft. 
7) 
ft. 
ft. 
ik 
74 


a  la  Brnnoise 
Nivarnatse 

Palestine  •        - 

purfc  de  Navets  Ctomlps) 
purge  d'Asperges  (asparagus)  - 
Crfcy  ... 

pur^e  de  Chonfleur  (cauliflower) 
purfe  de  Concombres  (cncamben) 
pur6e  de  Pois  verts  (peas) 
Clear  Giblet  Soup 

Potage  aux  Queues  de  Boeuf  (clair)  (ox 
tail^ 
aux  Queues  d'Agnean  (lambs' 

tails) 
aux   Queues   de  Veau   (clair) 

(calf's  tail) 
k  la  Dnchesae  .  .  • 

Clear  Grouse  Soup 

Partridge  Soup  -  -  - 

Pheasant  Soup 
Woodcock  Soup 
Hare  Soup  ... 
Potage  clafar  k  la  Poiasonieie  (flsh  soap)  ik 
Grouse  Soup  -  ^  -        " 

Pheasant  Soup  ... 

Partridge  Soup       ... 
Hare  Soup      .... 
PuT^  of  all  kinds  of  Game,  mixed  or 

separate  ... 

GibletSoup     -  .  .  - 

Potage  k  la  Reine   .  -  - 

k  la  Regente    • 
Soup  Mulligatawny 
Potage  Queues  de  Veau  k  blanc  (cslvei' 
tails) 
Queues  de  Veau  a  Tlndienne 
TdtedeVeau  di  I'lndienne  (calfs 
head) 


75 
76 
ik 
ik 

77 
ik 
78 
ik 
ik 

79 
ik 


TABLE  OF  CONTBNTS. 


PAGB 

Potage  Queues  de  Bcenf  &  I'lndieoDe 

(oxtaite)    -            -  -    80 

Queaee  de  Bceof  k  PAoglaiM      ib. 

anx  Hottrefl  ^yitera)  -    81 

aoz  Filets  de  Soles  (soles)  ib. 

k  la  Poissonniere        -  -    82 

d'Anguille  (eels)  -           •  ib. 

de  Homaid  (lobster)  -    83 

k  la  Chanoiaaise    •           -  ib. 

PfttedltaUe                -  •    84 

au  Vennioelle        •           -  ib. 

k  la  Semoule  (semooUna)  -    tbb 

aa  Riz  (rtce)         •            -  ib. 

au  Macaroni                -  •    85 

an  Macaroni  en  rubans     -  Uk 

Turtle  Soup   -           -            -  -    ib. 

Clear  Turtle  Soup  -            .            .  gT 

Mock  Turtle  Soup      -           •  -88 

Method  of  cleaning  SaU-water  PUh. 


Turbot 

BrUl  - 

Jobn  Dory 

Cod-flsb 

Wbitlngs 

Haddocks 

Salmon 

Soles 

Mackerel 

Red  Mullets 

Gurnets     - 

Herrings 

Smelts 


00 
lb. 
lb. 
ib. 
91 
ib. 
01 
ib. 
03 
ib. 
ib. 
ib. 
ib. 


MeOod  o/eleamng  FreeA-^cater  Fish. 


Carp 

Pike 

Trout 

Tencb 

Perch 

EeUi 

Lampr^rs 


ib. 
OS 
ib. 
ib. 
04 
ib. 
ib. 


P0IS80N8  (nSR). 


Turbot^  to  boll            -           .  .    g^ 

k  la  Crdme  (cream)  -          ib, 

sauce  Homard  (lobster)  -    06 

k  la  HoUandaise    -  .          ib. 

Mazarine             .  .    ib. 

en  Matelote  Normande  -         07 

en  Matelote  Tieige      -  -    08 

klaRIIigieuse  -    -  .         ib. 

Crdme  (grating)  .    00 

Poissooni^re  -  .          ib. 

Cr^me  d'Ancbois  (anchovy)  100 

SmaU  Turbot  i  la  Meuniere  .          ib, 

Turbot  au  gratin  k  la  Proven^ale  .  loi 

Brill  an  naturel     •           -  -          ib. 


Brill  k  la  pur^  de  C&pres  (capen) 
i  la  HoUandaise 
aux  CSlpres  (capers) 
k  la  Meanidre 
sauce  Homard  (lobster) 
k  la  BiUingtgate 

au  gratin  .  .  . 

k  l&Cr^me  d'Ancbois  (anchovy) 
FUets  de  BriU  a  la  Julve 

en  Matelote 
John  Dorfe     •  -  .  . 

k  rOrl^nnaise 
en  Matelote  Marini^re 
k  la  Crdmi^re 
en  Ravigote 

k  la  pui4e  de  Crevettes  (shrimps) 
Bateli^re 
Cr^me  (grating) 
HoUandaise    • 
Sanmon  (plain  salmon) 

an  naturel 
Crimped  Salmon  an  naturel     - 
Saumon  en  Matelote  Marlni^ie      - 
i  la  Mazarine 
HoUandaise    - 
Cardinal 
k  I'Amlral 

en  Matelote  Saxone    • 
k  la  Beyrout 
k  la  P^cbeuse 
k  l*£cailUre 
a  la  Crdme  d'Ancbois 
au  gcatio  i  la  Proven^ ale     - 
k  la  Cr^me  (grating)  - 
Sole  en  Matelote  Normande 

au  gratin  -  .  . 

k  la  Poltaise 
k  U  HoUandaise 
aux  ilnes  Herbes 
k  la  Maitre  d'H6tel 
aPItalienne  -  -  . 

Soles  plain  fried  -  .  . 

Sole  i  la  CoUwrt    - 

Meuniere     -  ^  . 

Crdme  d'Ancbois 
FUets  de  Soles  en  Matelote     - 
au  gratin    • 
i  la  Mattre  d'H6tel      . 
HoUandaise     - 
Italienne   - 
en  Ravigote 
k  I'OrUe 
k  la  Rtf(Nrme 
aux  Huttres  (oysten)  . 
Cod-iish  au  naturel 
CabiUaud  aux  Huttres  (oysters) 
k  la  B&hamei    . 
CoU^gienne 
Noble  Dame 
Stewed  Cod  k  TEcossaise 
CabiUaud  entier  k  la  Bourgeoise     • 

k  la  Rachel  •  . 

SUces  of  Cod  k  la  Monteflore 


PAOB 

-  101 
102 

-  ib. 
ib. 
ib. 
ib. 

103 

ib. 

ib. 
104 

ib. 

ib. 
105 

ib. 
106 

ib. 

lor 

ib. 

ib. 

ib. 
108 

ib. 

lb. 

ib. 

ib. 
100 

ib. 

ib. 
110 

ib. 
]J] 

ib. 

ib. 

ib. 

lis 

113 

ib. 

ib. 

ib. 
114 

lb. 
11^ 

ib. 

ib. 

ib. 
116 

ib. 

ib. 
117 

ib. 

ib. 
118 

ib. 

no 

ib. 

ib. 

lb. 
120 

ib. 

ib. 
121 

ib. 


TABLE  Of   CONTENTS. 


CabHlMid  I  U  Crimb  (KraUni; 
ProTen^ato 
Juive    - 
HoUandalie 
ShltFUh         -  .  - 

Suit  Cod  a  la  Mattre  d'HAte) 
Salt  Fi«h  a  la  Bonrffmaatre       - 
Red  MuUeti  i  riulienne 

iilaV^nlUanne     - 
RaTigota 
Fllleta  of  MnlleU  k  la  Monteaqatea 

k  ritalianna 

V^iiitienne 
aauce  RaTigota      • 
^UMazarliM 

WbitingB,  to  fry  tbem 
Whiting  aa  gratln 
Wbitinga  broiled    •      .     - 
k  la  Mattre  d'H6tel 

Fllleta  of  WbiUngf  fried     - 

i  U  HoUandalae 

i  I'ltallenne     - 
UThiting  i  VBvAle  (oil) 
Mackerel  •  -  - 

i  la  Mattre  d'H6tal 
Fillets  of  Mackerel  a  U  Damaf 


FAQK 

.  IS] 

ib. 

.     lb. 

]2i 

.    ib. 

Ib. 

.    Ib. 

123 

-  lb. 
Ib. 

.  124 
lb. 

.  ib. 
ib. 

-  ib. 
125 

-  Ib. 
ib. 

.    ib. 
196 

-  ib. 
ib. 

•    ib. 

ib. 
.  12T 

ib. 


Craba 

Moaclea 

Oyaten 


PAfil 

-  19 


Mackerel  au  beurre  noir  (black  batter)    lb. 

Fllleta  of  Mackerel  4  la  V^ltienoe  128 
Dublin  Bay  Haddock  i  la  bonne  Femme  ib. 

Dublin  Bay  Haddock,  baked          -  129 

Commoo  Haddock,  plain         -  -    ib. 

Haddock  4  la  Mattre  d'H6teI         -  lb. 

Walter  Scott      -  -  130 

FilletN  of  Haddock  k  la  St.  Paul     .  ib. 

HoUandalae  -    ib. 

Gametji  and  Pipers            -           -  lb. 

Roaat Gurnet-            -            -  -  }31 

Fillets  of  GurDets  en  matelote        -  ib. 

k  la  Mattre  d'H6tel     ib. 

k  ritallenne  -  ib. 

Herrings  broiled,  sauce  Digon        -  132 

pUin  boiled    -            -  -  ib. 

Bolted  Herrings  i  la  Cr^me              -  ib. 

Skate  plain  boiled        -            •  -    ib. 

au  beurre  noir  (black  bntter)  133 

a  la  Maitre  d'H6tel        -  -    ib. 

Smelts,  to  fry  tbem             •            -  ib. 

k  la  Juive        -            -  -  134 

Boulang^re    -            -  ib. 

AtelettFs  d'Eperlans  k  la  Menagere  -    ib. 

Buisson  d'Eperlans  (smelts)            -  ib. 

Flounders,  water  souchet         -  •  136 

k  la  Greenwich             -  ib. 

plain  fried              -  -    ib. 

broiled              •            -  ib. 

Plaice             -            -            -  -    ib. 

Whitebait              -            -            -  136 

Sturgeon         -            -            -  -    ib. 

k  la  Chancelidre               -  ib. 


Preth'Water  Fish, 


Pike  roasted 

i  la  Cbamboid     - 
Pike  en  matelote    - 

a  la  HoUaodaiae  - 
Small  Pike  il  la  Meaniere 
Pike  with  caper  saaee 

i  U  Mattre  d'H6tel     - 
4 1'Egyptienne 
Fillets  of  Pike  k  U  Mattre  d'Hotel 
en  matelote 
i  la  Meuni^re 
Carpe  en  matelote 
i  la  G^noise 
Stewed  Carp  k  la  Marquise 
Carp  with  caper  sauce 
Carp  fried        ... 
Tench  en  matelote 

k  la  Beyrout     - 

Poulette 
sauce  aux  Moulea  (moacles) 
fried  or  broiled 
Perch  k  la  HoUandaise 

Mattre  d'HAtel 
Small  Percbes.en  water  soncbet 


Shell  Fish. 


Lobstenr 


-  137 


•  ik 

141 

•  & 
ik 

'    ft. 
ik 

-  m 

-  ib. 

la 

-  jh. 
ik 

-  144 
Hi 

-  ^ 
ik 

•  145 
ik 

-  ib. 
Ik. 

-  146 
ik 

-  ik 
frits  au  beurre  (fried  in  batter)  ik 

Trout  plain  boiled       -  -            -  147 

Trout  k  la  Mattre  d'H6tel  -         ik 

G^noise    -  -            -    ik 

Baked  Trout         ...  ft. 

Trout  i  bi  Beyrout     -  -            -    ik 

Fillets  of  Trout  k  la  MasEarine  -        149 

Eels  fried        -            -  -            •    ik 

k  la  Tartare  -            -  .         ik 

Spitchcocked  Eels        -  -            -    Ik 

Stewed  Eels            .            .  .         ik 

Eels  en 'matelote          -  -             -  149 

Lampreys  -            -            -  -          ib. 

Crawfish         -            -  -            -    ik 

B0B8-D'(BUTRiS8,  OR  DnHBB  TO  BB  HAHDSD 
ROUND  THE  TABLE. 

Petits  Yol^u-VenU  k  la  MoeUe    de 

Boeuf  (beef  marrow)    -  -  Ul 

au  laltance  de  Maquereaa  (mac- 
kerel) -  -  -  152 
au  foie  de  Rale  (skate  liver)  ik 
aux  Huttres  (oysters)   •            -    ik 
de  Homard  (lobster^            -         1^ 

Petites  Bouch^es  &  la  Moelle  de  Bcenf  ik 
au  laltance  de  Maquerean  -  ib. 
au  foie  de  Rale       .  .  ik 

aux  Huttres      -  -  -  154 

de  Homard  -  •  -  ik 

^  la  Reine        -  -  •    ik 

pur6e  de  Volaille  (of  fowl)     ik 
deGU>ier(of  game)      •  -166 


TABLE  OF   CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

Petites  BoucbM  k  la  pai^  de  Gibier     1 65 
Petite  Pat^  &  ia  PUifsi^re      -  -     ib. 

eoz  Hnllres  ^  la  Patifsi^re  ]56 
de  Homard  k  la  Pltiuiere    ib. 
of  Sbrim[M  or  PrawDB  a  la 
PatiMi^re  -  ib. 

Riasolei  aax  Huitres  (oysters)  -  »    ib. 

de  Homard  (lobster)  -        157 

of  Sbrimpii        -  -  •    ib. 

de  laitances  de  Maqaereanx  (mac- 
kerel) ...  158 
de  Gibier  (of  game)  -  ib. 
de  Volallle  (of  fowl)     -             -159 
Ooustade  de  Bearre  (butter)         -  ib. 

k  la  Dake  of  York  160 

Croquettefl  de  Homard  (lobster)  -  lb. 

Aiguillettes  de  Rjs  de  Veau  (sweetbread)  161 

(escalopes)  auz  Haitres  (oysters)  ib. 

de  Homard  (lobster)  162 

de  filets  de  Sole     -  -    ib. 

aox  Huttres  (oysters)  -  ib. 

de  Homard  (lobster)  -  163 

de  Sole  -  -  ib. 

de  Volatile  i  la  jolie  flUe        ib. 

RBMOYES, 

Croustades  of  Bread  for  removes    •        164 

To  obtain,  lard,  and  dress  a  Fillet  of  Beef  ib. 

FUIet  of  Beef  K  la  Jeanne  d'Aic  -  165 

k  la  Beyroat  -        166 

aajus  d'Orange  -    ib. 

aujusde  Tomate  -    ib. 

a  la  Napolitaine        -  ib. 

Strasbourgienne      -  167 

Napolitaine        -        168 

Milanalse    -  •    ib. 

Boh^mienne      -        169 

Romaine     -  *  170 

Slewed  Rump  of  Beef  k  la  Flamande      17J 

auz  Oignons  glac^  fonions)         172 

k  la  Voltaire  -  -  lb. 

Portugaise  -  -  173 

Jeaiine  d'Arc    -  -         174 

Beyrout    -  -  -    ib. 

Mac^oine  de  legumes  (of 

vegetables)         -  .    lb. 

sance  piquante  (sharp)         -  ib. 

saace  tomate     -  .  -  175 

Stewed  Sirloin  of  Qeef        -  •  ib. 

a  la  Printani^re    -  ib. 
Ribs  of  Beef  k  la  Jean  Bart  -        1 76 

Ox  Tongues  -  -  -  177 

Loia  of  Veal  k  la  Cambaceres         -  tb. 

Mac^oine  de  legumes  (of  vege- 
tables) -  -  -  178 
pur6)  de  C^leri         -            -  ib. 
Strasbourgienne             -            -     ib. 
FiUet  of  Veal  k  la  Princi^re                 -  179 

Versaillienne     -         180 

Palestine  Artichokes    ib. 

Jardiniere  -  ib. 

Potng^re      -  -  181 


I 


PAGE 

Fillet  of  Veal  aux  petits  pois  (peas)         ib. 
Neck  of  Veal  k  la  pur^  de  c^leri         -    ib. 

Rouennaise         -        182 

Milanalse     -  -    ib. 

Bruxellaise         -  ib. 

Breast  of  Veal  -  -  -  183 

aux  pois  fins  k  I'Anglaise  (peiis)    ib. 

k  la  pnr6e  de  C^leri       •  -  184 

sauce  tomate  -  -  ib. 

CalfsHead  -  -  .    ib. 

an  natural        •  -        185 

Half  a  CalPs  Head  k  la  Luxembourg      180 

Tdte  de  Veau  en  Tortue  (calf  head)      187 

Calfs  Head  k  la  Pottinger  -        188 

in  currie  -  •     fb. 

Saddle  of  Mutton  k  la  Br^tonne     -        1<^9 

au  Laver  .  -  -    ib. 

k  la  Polonaise  -  •  ib. 

Marseillaise  -  -  190 

T6tl,  brais^,  k  la  Mirabeau  (roast, 

braised)  -  -  -191 

r6ti,  braise,  aux  l^umes  glac^ 

(vegetables)  -  -  -    ib. 

Haunch  of  Mutton  -  -  ib. 

au  jus  de  GroseiUes  (currant  jelly)     ib. 

k  la  Br^tonne       -  -  -  192 

Polonaise        -  -  .  ib. 

Bob6mienne         -  -  -    ib. 

aux  l^umes  glac^  (vegetables)        193 

Leg  of  Mutton  a  la  Boh^mienne  -  il). 

Bretonne  -  ib. 

au  Laver        -  -    ib. 

k  la  Provenfale     -  ib. 

Gigot  de  Monton  de  sept  henres  (seven 

hours)      ....  193 
Necks  of  Mutton  k  la  L^orumi^re    -        194 

Brt^tonne  -  195 

Neck  of  Mutton  k  la  Boh^mienne  195 

Proven^ale  -     ib. 

Charte  -  ib. 

Breast  of  Mutton  pan€e,  grill^e,  sauce 

piquante  -  -  -  196 

Saddle  of  Lamb  aux  petits  pois  a  la  S^vign^  ib. 

k  I'Indienne   -  -    ib. 

Demi  Proven9ale   •        198 

k  la  M6nagere  -    ib. 

Haunch  of  Lamb  _  -        i;)9 

Fore-quarter  of  Lamb  kT'Hdteli^re    -    lb. 

House  Lamb  aux  pointes  d'as* 

perges  (sprue  grass)  -  -    lb. 

Ribs  of  Lamb  k  la  Cbanceliere       -  ib. 

Leg  of  Lamb  k  la  St.  John     -  -    200 

aux  pois  (with  peas)  -  ib. 

Boiled  Leg  of  Lamb  and  Spinach         -  201 

k  la  PalesUne  ib. 

Roast  Leg  of  Lamb  k  la  Jardiniere      -    ib. 
Shoulder  of  Lamb  k  la  Bruxellaise  ib. 

Polonaise         -    ib. 


Pork, 

Leg  of  Pork  sauce  Robert 

k  la  Piedmontaise 


-  202 
ib. 


1 


6 


TABLE  OF   CONTENTS. 


] 

PAOB 

Lotn  of  Pork  k  la  Bonrgat^ote 

803 

Nnck  of  Poik  k  la  Remoalade,  k  Plndl- 

enne 

203 

k  la  Vteftiemie 

ib. 

RoaM  Socking  Pig 

204 

Sacking  Pig  a  la  SaTojarde 

Ib. 

Turkej  k  la  Nelaon 

205 

Godard 

206 

Cliipolata 

207 

Small  Turkey  a  la  Duchcaae 

20B 

Poulaide  i  I'AmlMftMdrice 

ib. 

Poulardes  en  Diad^me 

210 

a  la  VieomtcMe   - 

211 

Jeanne  d'Arc 

ib. 

Jeune  PrinceflM 

212 

Ffnancl^re 

213 

VanoTienoe  .            -            - 

lb. 

anx  l^gnmeM   printanien  (apring 

vegetables)  .            .            - 

214 

l^gomea  ferti  (green  ditto) 

216 

Petiti  PonleU  k  la  Warenzorf  - 

Ib. 

P^rigord  ii  blanc  - 

216 

MacMoine  de  l^gumea 

217 

k  I'lndienne 

ib. 

an  jus  d'eatragon  (tarragDn) 

218 

a  la  Marie  Stuart 

ib. 

Petits  Ponwins  i  la  Cbanoinalae 

ib. 

Petits  Poulets  k  la  Printani^re  (spring 

chickens)             .           -           . 

210 

Tartare- 

ib. 

Marshal    • 

220 

Gooae  a  la  Chipolata 

ib. 

staffed  with  cbesnuts    - 

ib. 

k  la  Portugaise 

221 

Ducklings  aux  oiiTes  ^.            .            . 

ib. 

aujusd'orange  (orange-juice)  ib. 

aux     l^iunes     printaniers 

(tipring  Tegetables) 

ib. 

k  la  Chartres     - 

ib. 

HauDcb  of  Venison      -            -            - 

ib. 

Doe  Venison  a    la  Corin- 

th ienne  ... 

223 

Necks  of  Doe  Venison  k  la  Corintbienne  224 

Necks  of  Venison  k  la  Boh^ienne 

ib. 

Faisans  a  la  Corsaire  (pheasants)     - 

ib. 

Garde  Chasse  . 

225 

traff6s  k  la  Pi^montaise 

226 

k  rExtrayagante    . 

ib. 

Grouse  k  la  Rob  Roy  -            .            - 

228 

Corsaire 

ib. 

Pi^montalse 

ib. 

Garde  Chasse  > 

ib. 

Of  Black  Cocks  and  Gray  Hens 

229 

Hare  k  la  Macgregor 

ib. 

Levraut  &  la  Coursiere  (leveret) 

ib. 

FLANCS. 

Fillet  of  Beef  piqu^  aux  Ug^mes  prin- 

taniers  (spring  vegetables)  .  230 
Filet  de  'Bceuf  au  jus  de  groselUes  -  231 
Fillet  of  Beef  k  la  Beyrout  -  ib. 

Langue  de  Bceuf  a  la  Marquise  (ox- 
tongue) -    ib. 


Langue  de  Bcsaf  k  la  Prims  Donaa 

St.  Aalaire 
Jardinien    - 
-MUaiMlae 

Westphalia  Ham,  small 


rii 


Ik 

S3 

h 

ft. 


Loin  of  Veal  k  la  Cambaf  ^lee  •  iM 

Cr^ffli^  -        L 

Noix  de  Vean  plqui^  an  Job  (knodEle of 

veal)    .  .  -  -  ik 

klaPotag^ie  .  .      W 

Palestine     -  -  -» 

auz  legumes  nouveaux  (new  mg^ 

tables)  -  -       ik 

k  la  pur^  do  ChampigDons  (mah- 

rooms)  -  .ft. 

Prince  Albert  -  -  Vl 

Neck  of  Veal  k  la  St.  Claiie  '^ 

Calf 's  Head  k  la  Constantine  -  ^ 

Neck  of  Mutton  deml  Proven^ ale  -      ^ 

kUSoabiae  -  -  ^ 

k  I'Alg^rienne     -      Sf 

kU  Portugaise        -  ik 

Loin  of  Motton  en  Carimnade        -      ^^ 

Carbonado  de  Mouton  k  la  Boofgninote  ft< 

Saddle  of  Lamb  k  la  Bonne  Fermieie    Ml 

Shoulder  of  Lamb  farci  aux  TmlBes       tk 

k  la  Financi^re  -  -      ^^ 

Sur6e  de  pois  vert  (of  green  pess)    ik 
lattie  d'Hdtel  -  -       ^ 

Neck  of  Lamb  aux  l^umea  printanien  ik 
anx  petits  pois  (with  peas)  ik 
k  la  Bruxellalse        -  -  ^ 

Douari^re  -  -        '**• 

Mattre  d'Hotel  •  *■ 

Petits  Poussins  k  laMoskovite  (cbickea)  ik 

JScarlate    -  ■  **{ 

Palestine         -      *^ 

V^nitienne  -   » 

Prince  Albert  -        *• 

au  jus  d'Estragon  (tarragon)    -  *» 

klaChevali^         -  -        ^ 

Marengo   -  .  -  **^ 

Ducklings  aax  petits  pois  au  lard  (with 

P«a9)  .  -        *■ 

au  jus  d'Orange      -  "  ^ 

Faisans  k  la  Fontainbleau  -  -        '^ 

k  la  pur^e  de  Gibier  (game)    •  2«* 

traffics  k  la  Pi6aiontaise     •        ■■^ 

kl'Amiral       -  -  •  *^ 

Grouse       -  -  .  -        ik 

Chartreuse  dePerdreaux  (of  partridgei)   ^. 

de  Peidreaux  k  Tlmp^rial     «Ji 

de  Perdreaax  k  la  Moderne    ^ 

Perdreaux  k  la  Mecklenbonrg  -   ^ 

pur€e  de  Gibier  ( of  game)     ^ 

truffi^  k  la  P^rigord  •   ^^ 

I^vraut  sauce  poivrade  (leveret)     -        "^ 

au  jus  de  groseilles  .  -  ^' 

Lapereaux  k  la  Tavemi^re  (rabbits^         ^ 

Jardiniere        -  •  ^ 

aux  petit<i  pois  (peas)     -        ^' 

a  la  Villageoise       •  -   ^fl 

Boaigmestre  -       ^ 

Anglaise 


ik 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS 


PAGE 

VM  chand  d'Agnean  (lamb)  -        856 

de  Mouton  k  ririandatoe  -  257 
d'EscalopeadeFilAtdeBoraf  ib. 
d'Escalopei  de  Veaa  et  de 

Ris  de  Vena       -  -  258 

de  Volaille  (fowl)         -  lb. 

Plgeonneaaz      -  -  859 

Lapereau  (rice)        -        260 

Vol-au-tent     -  -  -  -lb. 

CaiMrole  de  Riz  (rabbits)  -  ib. 

aax  queues  d'Agoeau  (lamlw'  tails^  261 

queues  de  Veau  (calves'  ditto)    ib. 

pieds  d'Agneau  (lambs'  feet)       ib. 

piedsde  Mouton  (sheep's  ditto)  268 

k  la  Napolitaine         -    ib. 

Polonaise  a  la  Koroski  263 

k  la  Royale   -  -    lb. 

CheTaliere     -        264 


SNTREBS. 

Of  Beef  for  Entries     -  -  - 

Escalopes  de  Filet  de  Boeuf  k  la  Rtforme 

Gotba 
Portagaise 
Nemours  - 
Ostende 

piqu^  a  laCbssHeur 
Other  Entr^  of  Fillets  of  Beef 
AiguiUette  de  Langue  de  Boeuf  en  papil- 

lote  (ox-tongue) 
Turban  de  Langue  de  Boeuf  i  PEcarlate 
Langue  de  Boeuf  a  la  Jardiniere 
Langue  de  Boeuf,  sauce  piquanta 
Queues  de  Boeuf  aux  navets  au  brun 


k  la  Jardiniere     • 
Queues  de  Boeuf  (ox-tails)  sauce  aux 

comichons  (gherkins) 
Queues  de  Boeuf  en  Currie 

k  la  Sicilienne 
Marseillaise  • 
To  prepare  and  dress  Palates  of  Beef  - 
Palates  de  Boeuf  k  la  Ravlgote 
Atelettes  de  Palates  de  Boeuf  • 
Palates  de  Boeuf  k  la  Vivandi^re    • 
Turban  de  Palate  de  Boeuf  au  gratin    - 
Vol-au-vent  de  Palates  de  Boeuf     - 
Palates  de  Boeuf  en  Papillote  - 
Turban  de  T^te  de  Veau  en  Tortue 
(calfshead)        ... 
a  la  Maitre  d'H6tel  - 
Hollandaise 
Poulette 

Indienne    .  -  . 

Oreilles  de  Veau  farci  (calves'  ears) 

en  Marinade 
Langues  de  Veau  aux  Champignons 
(calves'  tongues  with  mushroom:*) 
Calves'  Brains       ... 
Queues  de  Veau  k  la  Ravlgote  (calves' 
talk)       .... 
o  la  Poulette 


266 

ib. 

867 

268 

ib. 

269 

270 

ib. 

271 
272 
•  ib 
273 

ib. 
274 

274 

ib. 
275 

ib. 

ib. 
276 
277 

ib. 
278 

ib. 

ib. 

270 

ib. 
280 

ib. 

ib. 
281 

ib. 

ib. 
282 

ib. 
283 


PAOB 

Of  Sweetbreads  ...  283 

Ris  de  Veau  k  la  Santa  Cruz  (calTs 

sweetbread)      -  -  -        ib. 

piqu6  iL  la  Torque  -  884 

piqu^  k  la  Financi^re  -  285 
piqutf  k  la  pur^  d'Asperges  ib. 
r6ti  (roasted)  -  -  ib. 

Caisse  de  Ris  de  Veau  i  la  Ninon  de 

I'Enclos   •  ...  -  886 

Escalopes  de  Ris  de  Veau  au  iuprftme      ib. 

aox  pointes  d'Asperges  887 

k  I'Indienne  -  ib. 

en  caldses       -  -    ib. 

Atelettes  de  Ris  de  Veau    -  -        888 

Blanquette  de  Ris  de  Veau  aux  truffes      ib. 

Vol-an-vent  de  Ris  de  Veau  -        889 

Of  Tendrons  de  Veau  (of  veal)  -    ib. 

Tendrons  de  Veau  a  la  Noble  Dame         ib. 

alaDauphine         -  890 
Cotelettes  deVeau  piqu^  aux  petits  pois 

(with  peas)  -  -  -     ib. 

Cotelettes  de  Veau  en  Papillote      -        891 

k  la  Sans  Fa^on       -    ib. 
Noix  de  Veau  for  Entr^  -  -        898 

Grenadins  de  Veau  piqu^  aux  racines 

nouvelles  (young  vegetables)  *    ib. 

Of  Veal  Kidneys         -  -  -    lb. 

Veal  Kidneys  en  Caisses     -  -        893 

Bondin  de  Veau  k  la  Legomidre  -    ib. 

a  la  RicbeUeu       -        894 
Of  Mutton  for  Entries  -  -    ib. 

Cotelettes  de  Mouton  k  la  Reforme    -        tb. 

Vifcomtesse  -  295 
Westphalienne  296 
Provenf  ale  -  297 
Boh^mienne  ib. 
Soubise  -  298 
Durcelle  -  lb. 

aux  petites  racines    -  .  899 

sauce  piquanta  (sharp)      -         ib. 
k  la  Jardiniere  -  -     ib. 

aux  champignons  (mushrooms)  ib. 
aux  navets  an  brun  (turnips)  -    ib. 
Cotelettes  de  Mouton  k  la  Palestine        300 
aux  pointes  d'asperges  (aspara- 
gus points)        -  -    lb. 
aux  haricots  verts  (French  beans)    801 
petits  pois  (peas)       -  -    ib. 
choufleurs  (cauliflowers)      .    ib. 
tnifies     -           -           -  ib. 
k  la  Maintenon    -           •  302 
sauce  remoulade         -  ib. 
a  la  Financiere     -            -    ib. 
Mattre  d'H6(el    -        303 
Hollandaise  -            -    ib. 
pan^e,grill6  <crombed,  broiled)  ib. 
Of  Cotelettes  braised    -            -            -  304 
Cotelettes  de  Mouton  brais^es  k  la  3far- 

selUaise  -  -  -  lb. 

Carbonado  of  Mutton  •  .  .  305 

Poitrine  de  Mouton  sauce  piqnante  (breast 

of  mutton)  •  -  -    ib. 

Rognoos  de  Mouton  k  hi  brochette  (sheep^' 
kidneys    -  -  *  •    ib. 


^    I 


8 


TABLS   OP  C0KTBNT8. 


RogBOiif  i  U  TvUto  •800 

de  Moaton  )i  bi  V^nlUeDne     -    lb. 
wat^  au  vio  de  cbampagne  ib. 
Piedi  da  MootoD  k  la  Ponletto  (liieep'a 

feet)         -  .  .  -SOT 

Pledi  de  Mooton  4  La  pavfo  d'c^ona      ib. 


Bnirieg  of  lAumb. 

Pleda  d'Agneau  <lainbt'  feet)  - 
farcU  (utaOed) 
en  marinade    - 
cartoncbe 


-  ib. 
308 

-  ib. 
ib. 


Oreillea  d'Agneaa  a  la  Belle  Ferml^re 

(lambt'  ears)        ...  309 
OreiUet  d'Agneaa  k  la  Marquiae    •  ib. 

Ravigote  -  310 

Mattie  d*H6tel     ib. 

en  marinade  •    ib. 

farcia   -  -  ib. 

Qaenes  d'Agnean  k  la  Cr^ml^re  ^lamba' 

tailn)        -  -  -  .311 

Langue  d'Agnean  i  la  Peraane      •  ib. 

Lambs'  Brains  i  Tlnnocent     •  '318 

Lamb's  Piy  -  -  -  ib. 

Kit  d'Agneau  aux  petita  poia  (lamb's 

sweetbread)  -  -  -  313 

Ria  d'Agneau  a  la  Camba^^res       -  ib. 

aux  concombres  (cucnmbem)  314 

k  la  Madone      -  -  lb. 

Epigramme  d'Agneau  aux  baricots  ?erta 

(beans)     -  -  -  -  316 

Epigramme  d'Ag^eauaux  petits  poia  (peas)  ib. 

concombres     316 
k  PAncienne       -    ib. 
Cotelettes  d'Agneau  aux  petits  poia  ib. 

poi  ntes  d'asperges  (asparagua  topa)  317 
baricots  rerta  (beans)     -  .    ib. 

aux  racines  glac^    -  •        ib. 

jeunesoignons  (young  onions)    -  318 
k  la  Palestine   -  -  -    ib. 

Vicomtesse-  •  -  ib. 

pur^e  de  truffes       '      -  '  .  310 

purfedecbampfgnons  (mushrooms)  ib. 

Jiuree  d'artichauts         -  .     ib. 

arcis  aux  truffes     -  -        380 

farcis  aux  champignons  -    ib. 

BUmquette  d'Agneau  (lamb)  .        381 

Croquettes  d'Agneau         -  .  lb. 

Entries  of  Pork. 

Cotelettea  de  Pore  d  Tlndienne  -.  388 

sauce  remoulade  ib. 

k  la  Siamoiie  •    ib.  • 

Bolognaise      '    323 

Jeune  France       ib. 

Filets  de  Pore  a  THanov^rienne  -  384 

Escalopes  de  Pore  k  la  Lyonnaise  -  ib. 

Langue  do  Pore  demi  saltf  (pig's  tongue)  326 

Doe  Feniton,  or  ChevreuiL 

Cotelettea  de  CheTreuil  k  la  Boh^mienne  385 

sautes  sauce  poivrade  386 


risi 

Minced  Cbefrenll  .  *      -  S« 

Of  the  Wild  Boar  -  .  .      3!I 

Of  Venison  for  Bnti^a  -  •  fti 

Cotelettei  de  Venaiaon  en  deml-glace     ib. 

aux  olivea  -  •  liS 

au  jtia  de  groMiUes  (coi- 

nmtjellj)  -  -  ik 

Hashed  Venison  -  -  •  Qt. 

Venison  Pie  .  .  .      3» 

Entries  of  Poultry, 
Tttrke^M* 

Eatomac  de  Dinde  k  la  Tuienne         -  Sit 

Jeune  ComfesMSM 
Eacalopes  de  Dinde  en  blanquette  ik. 

k  la  Belle  Feimi^  3)1 
Emincee  de  Dinde  a  I'ltalienne  •  ik. 

Blanquette  de  Dinde  aa  Jambon  (hsm)  ib. 
Filets  de  Poulardea  k  I'AmbasBadrice    SSS 

Marie  Stuart  ik 
Talma  -S3) 

Rusae  -  ^ 
Pierre  le  Gfaod  S35 
Dumaa  -^ 

Blanc  de  Poularde  aux  concombres  (ca- 

combers)  .  .  .  .   Ik 

CuiMes  de  Poulardea  a  la  TaUeyiand  de 

P^rigord  -  ^ 

an  Soieil       -      ^ 
kl'EcaiUere      -  >k- 
farcis  aux  petits  legumes 

(vegetables)  •  ^ 

en  fricass^  k  rH6teIi^re  ^ 
k  la  Bayonnaise  -  ^ 

Entrte  of  Spring  Chickens,  Pallets, 

Fowls,  d:c.  -  -  -  ib- 

Filets  de  Volaille  k  U  S^rign^  (fowl)     341 

N^wi     .  -   ib. 

saut^auSoprimeSi) 

aux  truffes      -  -   i^ 

a  la  B^amei  343 

aux  champignons  (musbroomfl)  1^ 

alaB6:bamel   9k 

FOets  de  Poulet  k  I'Ambaasadrice       -   ^ 

k  la  Strasbourgienne  -'344 

Filets  de  Volaille  a  la  Ducbesse    -        i^ 

Epigramme  de  Filets  de  Volaille  I  la 

Josephine  -  -  -  3^ 

Filets  de  Volaille  aux  concombres  (cu- 
cumbers)- -  -  -    fb. 
Fricassee  de  Poulet  k  la  Cberaliere     -   ^ 

Ancienne         341 


Spring  Chickens^ 

Petits    Ponletg  Printaniers  sauf^  anz 

truflfes  (spring  chickens)  -  -   ^^ 

Poulet  Printanier  brais^  a  hi  Financiers  3^^ 
Petits  Pouleta  Printaniers  sauce  remoo- 
lade  (chaude)       •  .  -   Q> 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


9 


PAGE 

Poulet  Printanier  grille  auz  champig- 

Dona  conflts  (pickled  muBbroomti)    349 
CaisMB  de  VoUuUe  truff^  k  la  P^rigord    ib. 

a  la  Dino     -  -  350 

brais^  aux  concombres 

(cucumbers)  -  ib. 
braia^  aux  pots  (peas)  ib. 
en  fricassee  k  I'An- 

cienne     -  -  351 

a  la  Marengo    -  ib. 

Poulet  li  la  Provenf  ale  -  -    ib. 

Turban  de  Quenelles  de  Volaille  iL  la 

Russe       ....  352 
Quenelles  de  Volaille  k  I'Ecarlate  ib. 

aux  concombres  -    ib. 

en  demi  deuil         353 

a  la  Yorlc  Minster  354 

Pair  de  France  ib. 

Silene  -    ib. 

Boudins  de  Volaille  k  la  Richelieu         355 

Sully  .    ib. 

Croquettes  de  Volaille  aux  truffes  356 

au  Jambon  (with  ham)     ib. 

Rissolettes  de  Volaille  k  la  Pompadour  357 

Filets   de  Canetons   aux   petits    pois 

(duclclings  with  peas)       -  -  358 

Filets  de  Canetons  k  la  cbicor^  (with    lb. 

endive)    -  -  -  -    ib. 

Filets  de  Canetons  k  la  mao^doine  de 

legumes  (vegetables)       -  -    ib. 

au  jus  d'Orange  359 

farcjs     ...  ib. 

Entries  of  Game. 

Hares, 

Filets  de  Lidvre  sauce  Rtforme  (bare)  -  860 

piqui^  sauce  polvrade         lb. 

i  la  Bourguignote  ib. 

marine  endemi- 

glace  -  361 

Escalopes  de  Lievre  k  la  Chasseur  ib. 

Cotelettes  de  Lievre  a  la  Dauphine         362 

Turban  de  Lievre  k  la  P^roDne  -    ib. 

Rabbits. 

Filets  de  Lapereau  k  la  Valenciennes 

(rabbit)-  -         363 

Ecarlate  .^    ib. 

Turban  de  Lapereau  k  la  Douariere  364 
Epigramme  de  Filets  de  Lapereau  -  ib. 
Filets  de  Lapereau  k  la  Musulmane  365 
Cotelettes  de  Lapereau  aux  petite  ra- 

cines        -  .  .  -    ib. 

Lapereau  saut^  aux  truffes  .  ib. 

a  la  Marengo  366 

Rabbit  Cnrrie    •  .  .  .    ib. 

Fricassee  de  Lapereau        -  -      '    ib. 

Pheasants. 

Faisans  auvelout^  de  Gibier  (pheasants)  367 

k  la  pur^e  de  Gibier  -  ib. 

Filets  de  Faisans  k  la  Comte  de  Brabant  368 


PAQB 

Filets  de  Faisans  piqu^  aux  legumes 

(vegetables)  -  -  -  368 

Turban  de  Faisans  en  salmi  -  ib. 

Filets  de  Faisans  k  la  Marquise  -  369 

Main  tenon  ib. 

Turban  de  Quenelles  de  Faisans  -  370 

Grouse. 

Grouse  i  la  Commodore    •  .  ib. 

Filets  de  Grouse  k  la  Paoli       -  -  371 

Chanceliere  ib. 

Salmi  de  Grouse  aux  truffes  -        372 

Grouse  k  la  Ailsa        -  .  -    ib. 

Turban  de  Quenelles  de  Grouse  a  la 

Modeme  ...  373 

Partridges. 

Perdreaux  &  la  Silene  (partridges)  -  ib. 

grilles  k  la  puree  de  Gibier     374 

aux  choux  (cabbage)  .         .    lb. 

Chartreuses  de  Perdreaux        -  .    ib. 

Filets  de  Perdreaux  aux  petits  l^mes  375 

a  la  Florentine  ib. 

Cotelettes  de  Perdreaux  k  la  Bacchante    ib. 

Douariere         376 
.  Doc  de  Chartres  ib, 

Epigramme  de  Perdreaux  k  Tessence  de 

Gibier  .  -  377 

aux  Champignons  (mushrooms)  ib. 
Turban  des  Filets  de  Perdreaux  a  la 

P^rigord  -  -  .    ib. 

Turban  de  Quenelles  de  Perdreaux  k  la 
Berri  .  .  .         ib. 

Wild  Ducks. 

Filets  de  Canetons  Sauvages  k  Tessence 

(wild  ducklings)  -  378 

Syrienne  -  ib. 

aujus  d'Orange      -379 

au  fum^  de  Gibier       ib. 

Salmi  de  Canetons  Sauvages  aux  truffes   ib. 

Filets  de  Cauetons  Sauvages  k  la  pur^ 

de  Grouse  -  .  -    ib. 

Teal. 

Turban  de  Filets  de  Sarcelies  k  la  Mo- 

deroe       ....  399 

Turban  de  Sarcelies  S  la  Toulouse  ib. 

Sarcelies  nu  jus  d'Orange  (teal)  -    ib. 

k  la  Bateliere       -  -        381 

mac6doine  de  legumes        ib. 

.  purte    de     champignons 

(mushrooms)  .    ib. 

Woodcocks. 

Filets  de  B^casses  k  la  LucuUus  -  382 

Talleyrand  ib. 

Imperial  -  383 


10 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


PAOB    1 

FMB 

Torbu  d6  B^amm  aux  champignoni 

88S 

DuckllngB      - 

-468 

Salmi  de  B^caaies  (woodcocks)     - 

ib. 

CanetOBS  an  Tin  de  Mad^re 

ib. 

a  la  JoiBTille 

ib. 

B^cassea  ft  la  PlMgonl 

.   & 

Entrte  de  Bteatei  k  U  GomteaM 

3S4 

aajusd'orange 

•  «1 

B^UMM  a  la  P^rigofd 

ib. 

d*^cfaaiota 

& 

iL'eMenee    ... 

9S6 

Guinea  Powb  ... 

.   h. 

&  la  Flnanci^re    - 

ib. 

Pea  Fowls .                        -             > 

%, 

pnTM     -            -            - 

ib. 

Pigeons           ... 

'  m 

Snipes  or  Becaasinea 

ib. 

Quails        .... 

A, 

• 

CaiUes  ft  TEloise 

'  & 

Piners, 

Pheasants              ... 

m 

Faisans  ft  la  Galitzine  - 

.  jk 

Plofien           .... 

ib. 

Grouse      .... 

m 

Filets  de  Phirieis  k  la  Marie  Antoinette 

ib. 

a  la  Bonny  Lassie 

.  fc 

anx  trufles 

366 

Ptarmigans             ... 

m 

cbampignoDS  (mnshrooins)  lb. 

Ptarmigan  ft  la  Charles  tbe  Twelfth     • 

•    iL 

Filets  de  Plavien  a  la  R^genee 

lb. 

Black  Cocks  and  Giay  Hens 

m 

PlLt<  chaad  des  PkiTiers           -   - 

387 

Partridgn       .... 

.  ft. 

Dun  Birds 

ik 

QuaOi. 

WUd  Ducks  and  Pintails 

.    ft. 

ft  la  Chasseur     - 

418 

Qaails        .... 

ib. 

Widgeons     • 

ik 

Cailles  en  mac^dotne  de  Itfgnmes  aox 

Teal 

ft. 

fetdlles  de  Tigneii  (vine  leaves)     - 

ib. 

an  jus  d'orenge 

4tT 

anx  petits  pois  (peas) 

388 

Plovers         .... 

ik 

Torban  des  Cailles  k  la  Financidre 

ib. 

or  tbe  Woodcock 

ik 

aox  concombres 

ib. 

Woodcocks  ft  la  Stael 

481         1 

a  la  par^  de  tniffi»s 

380 

lum^e  de  Gibier 

Ik 

Qoaila  for  Vol-an-vents,  or  PHt^  chand 

ib. 

Piedmontaiae 

fti 

Larks            .... 

ftu 

Pigeons. 

Snipes      .... 
Hares            .... 

408 

Ik 

Cotelettes  des  Pigeonneanx  2  la  Pari- 

Leterats  .... 

Ik 

sienne  (pigeons) 

ib. 

Rabbits          .... 

jk 

k  la  Financi^re 

ib. 

aox  pois  verti  - 

ib. 

8AT0URT  nrSHBS  FOR  8BCOVD  COUMB 

• 

ft  la  Suliman 

300 

The  Boar't  Head      ... 

410 

Larkt, 

Of  the  Boar's  Head  ft  1' Antique    - 

411 

Ribs  of  Beef  a  la  George  the  Fourth 

413 

Turban  of  Larks  k  la  Parisienne 

ib. 

Bolingbroke 

41i 

aox  fine  berbes    - 

301 

froidftlaBobonienne   Ik 

anx  quenelles 

ib. 

Filets  de  Boraf  farcis  ft  la  Dr.  Johnson 

418 

P&i^  cband  de  Maaviettes  (larks)   - 

ib. 

Cold  Ox  Tongues       ... 
Tongue  a  la  Lancret 

417 

gratines 

ib. 

418 

Vol-ao-vent  de  Mauviettes 

302 

Printaniere 

ik 

Com^ienne  - 

ik 

OF  TBB   ROASTS  FOR  SECOND  COURSE. 

Cold  Ham    .... 

418 

Fillet  of  Veal  ft  la  Pontoise 

ik 

Roast  Turkey  an  cresson  (watercresd) 

805 

Cardinale  • 

498 

Turkey  Barded       ... 

306 

Loin  of  Veal  au  Jambon  - 

ik 

Laided 

ib. 

Dame  Blanche 

421 

Dindonnean  tmOK  a  la  P^rigord  (tnikey)  lb. 

Galantine  de  Veau  au  Jambon 

ik 

farcl          ... 

ib. 

Plt6  de  Veau  an  Jambon 

422 

Roast  Turkey  a  PAnglaise 

ib. 

Cotelettes  de  Veau  a  la  St.  Garat 

423 

Turkey  Poults            ... 

ib. 

Princesse 

424 

Cbapon  t6M  au  cresson  (with  watercress)  308 

Ris  de  Veau  ft  la  Chinoise 

ik 

Poularde  k  la  Demidon 

ib. 

Cotelettes  de  Mouton  braie^  anx  naTeta  iS5 

rAU  ft  la  Stael      - 

800 

Turban  de  Cotelettes  de  Mouton  ft  la 

Poulet  r6ti  (roasted) 

ib. 

Fermiere  .... 

ik 

Spring  Cbickens     - 

ib. 

Carbonade  de  Mouton 

426 

k  la  Forrester 

ib. 

Ballottins  d'Agnean  ft  la  de  Bazan       • 

4fl6 

Geese        .... 

400 

ft  la  Catalanaise  - 

Ik 

TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


11 


PAGE 

Cotelettdft  d'Agneau  k  la  Oel^  -  427 

froid  k  la  Princeafle    ib. 
Galantine  de  Dinde  -  -         ib. 

anx  foies  graa         -  428 
&  la  Voliere       -  ib. 

PRt£  de  Dinde  an  blanc  de  Volallle  •  429 
Galantine  de  Poalarde  k  la  Persane  430 
Pat^  de  Volaille  anx  TrniFea    -  -  431 

Poulardea  a  la  Maza|i^an   -  -  lb. 

Banqniere         -  -  438 

Poolets  Printanien  h.  la  Santa  Cruz 

(spring  cbickene)    433 

)k  la  Princesse  Royale  (ditto)      ib. 

Ponlaide  i^  la  Gaillatune  Tell  ( capon)         lb. 

Chand  froid  de  Poalarde  -  -  434 

iL  la  Pembroke         435 

en  maTonnalte   -     ib. 

Flletfl  de  Ponlaidea  k  la  Neaselrode  Ib. 

Rarlgote         -  436 
PetitB  Canetons  en  aspic  (dackllng)  Ib. 

Salade  de  Volaille  (fowl)         -  •  487 

Salade  de  Fileta  de  Poalarde  k  la  Bnmow  ib« 
Pooletfl  Prlntanlem  k   la    Maianlello 

(spring  chickens)        -  •        486 

Moale  d'Afpic  k  la  fwjale  (moold)  ib. 

Galantine  de  Faisan  aoz  TrnjBiw  (phea- 
sants) -  -  489 
Falsans  k  la  Yolidre  -  ib. 
Vkti6  de  Faivans  aoz  Trnflbs  -  ib. 
Filets  de  FaJsans  k  la  Prince  Geoige  -  440 
Chaad  froid  de  Filets  de  Faisans  -  ib. 
Grouse  ....  44] 
Galantine  de  Grouse  k  la  Montagnard  ib. 
Salade  de  Grouse  a  la  Soyer  -  -  ib. 
Peidreanz  k  la  Downshire  (partridges)  442 
Galantine  de  Perdreaux  A  la  VoUdre 

(partridges)         ...  443 
Pftt^  de  Perdreaux  (dittoj)  -  ib. 

Btoisses  4  la  d'Orl^ans  (woodcocks)  -  ib. 
Pftt^,  froid  de  MauTiettes  (cold)  -  444 
Salade  de  Homard  it  I'Indienne  -    446 

Mayonnaise  de  Homard  k  la  gel^  ib. 

Miroton  de    Homaid   &  la  Cardpiale 

(lobster)         -  -  -  ib. 

Homard  en  Aspic  (dltto^         -  -  446 

Homard  au  gratin  (ditto)   .  .  ib. 

Crabs  .....  447 
Coquilles  aux  Huttres  (oysters)     -  lb. 

Salade  de  Filets  de  Soles  -  -    ib. 

Filets  de  Soles  aux  Concombres  -  448 
Truites  marin^  en  mayonnaifle  (trout)  ib. 
Dame  de  Saumon  marinte  (slice   of 

salmon)  -  .  -  ib. 

Galantine  d'Anguille  (eels)     -  .  449 

VBGETABLBS  POR  SECOND  COURSE. 

Asparagus  -  .  .  .        450 

Asperges  en  petits  pois  (ditto  with  peas)  Ib. 
Sea-Kale  -  -  .  -451 

C^leri  k  la  Moelle  de  Bcenf  (manow)  ib. 
C^eri  a  la  Chetwynd        -  >  462 

Salsifis  a  la  Poulette    -  -  -    ib. 


PAGE 

Salsifls  k  ]a  Moelle  de  Boraf  (marrow)    463 
Fried  Salsifis  -  -  -  ib. 

Concombres  farcis  en  demt -glace  -    ib. 

a  la  cr^me  •        464 

Croustade  aux  Concombres      -  •    ib. 

Vegetable  Marrow  •  ib. 

Jerusalem  Artichokes  •  -  466 

Cauliflowers  and  Brocoli    -  -  ib. 

ChoufleuTs  au  Parmesan  (cauliflowers)    466 

Artichokes  -  -  -  ib« 

k  la  Barlgoule       -  -  467 

Artichauts  k  la  Bordelaise  -         lb. 

aTItallenne  -  -  468 

au  Velout^       -  -  lb. 

k  la  Bruxellaise     -  -  460 

Peas  •  -  -  -  ib. 

au  sacre  Anglo-Fran^ais  -  460 

k  la  Fran9aise  -  ib. 

French  Beans  -  -  -  -  461 

saat&  au  beurre  (batter)    ib. 

aux  fines  berbes       -  Ib 

i  la  Poulette     -  -    ib. 

Bmsnls  Spronts  sani6s  aa  beurre  -        468 

i  la  Maltre  d'H6tel        ib 

k  la  Creme  en  turban 

de  Concombres       -    ib. 

Spinach      ....        463 

aojus  -  -  -    ib 

a  la  Fran^aise  -  .        ib. 

au  Sucre  (sugar)         •  -  464 

EndlTeaujus         -  -  -         ib. 

Sorrel  -  -  -  -  -    ib. 

Lattnes  braisfe  a  la  Penslonnaire  (lettuces)  466 

farcis  -  -  -  Ib. 

F^ves  de  Marais  (Windsor  beans)         -  466 

White  Haricots  (beans)     -  -  ib. 

Haricots  blancs  i  la  Br^tonne  -  467 

k  la  Mattro  d*H6tel  ib. 

Tomates  au  gratin       -  •  -    Ib. 

a  la  Pi^ontaise  •  .        468 

Mushrooms  plain  broiled  -  .    lb. 

farcis  -   '         -  .  ib. 

Croute  aux  champignons  •  -    ib. 

Young  Carrots  in  their  gflaze  -        469 

Young  Turnips  In  their  glaze     -        -    lb. 

Oignons    Prtntaniers  au    Sirop   dor^ 

(spring  onions)  -  -  ih. 

Macedoine    de    lignmen    Printani^rs 

(spring  ▼egetables)  -  -    ib, 

Pommes  de  Terre  a  la  Mattre  d'H6tel 

(potatoes)      -        470 

saut^  an  beurre     -    lb. 

a  la  Lyonnnaise  Ib. 

liCntiUes         ....  47X 

k  la  Comte  au  riz  (rice)  -         ib. 

Truffles  -  -  .  .  472 

Truffes  au  Tin  de  Champagrne         -         ib. 

Croute  aux  Truffes      ...  473 

Truffes  en  croustade  &  I'ltallenne  -  lb. 

demi  Pl6montaise        -  -    ib. 

IllaDino  ...        474 

Omelette  aux  fines  herbes       -  -    ib. 

au  Jambon  (^ham)  -  lb. 


12 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

Omelette  wax  TrafRsf  •            .  -  475 
ftui  ClMiiDpigDons(mn:{hrooiD8)  ib. 

aux  Olivet           •  -          ib. 

k  la  Jardiniere          -  -    ib. 

aux  Huttres  (oysters)  -          ib. 

aax  filets  de  Soles     -  -  476 

aux  Monies  (moscles)  -          ib. 

de  Hoiaard  (lobster)  -    ib. 

au  Sucre  (sugar)  -          ib. 

au  Confitare  (preserve)  -    ib. 

an  Rbum             -  -        477 

ENTREMKTR. 

Observations  upon  Pastry         -  478 

Ofdifferent  sorts  of  Paste  -  •  ib 

PoffPasta       •  -  •  -  479 

with  Beef  Suet  -  -        4S0 

Half  Puff  Paste  .  -  -    ib. 

P&tei  dresser        -  -  -        481 

fine  or  Pkte  a  foncer        •  -    ib. 

d'Office  or  Confectioner's  Paste      48  j 

d'Amande  (almond)        -  -    ib. 

Pastillage  or  Gum  Paste     -  -        483 

Vol-au>vents   -  -  -  -    ib. 

de  PScbes  (peacbes)  -        484 

d'Abricots  -  -  485 

of  Greengages  -  ib. 

de  Cerises  (cberries)         -    ib. 

de  Poires  (pears)         •  ib. 

de  Pommes  (apples^  •  486 

d'Orang^s        -  -  ib. 

Gateau  de  Millefeuille  k  la  Moderne 

(cake)     -  •  -  .    ib. 

Turban  a  la  Creme  aux  Macarons  amers  487 
Pult  de  Fruit  aux  Blanches  Couronnes 

(well)  -  -  -  ib. 

Gateau  de  Pithiviers  (cake)     -  -  488 

Toorte  d'Entremet  K  la  Creme        -        489 

Marmelsde  de  Pommes  (apples)     ib. 

au  Co.nfiture  (preserve)     -        -  490 

Tartelettes  pralin^es  aux  Abricots  ib. 

de  Probes  (peacbes)  -  491 

aax  Cerises  (cberries)  -  ib. 

aux  Groseilles  vertes  (green 

gooseberries)     -  -    ib 

of  Greengages  -  ib. 

aux  Praises  (strawberries)       ib. 

de  Pommes  (apples)      -        492 

de  Poires  (pears)   •  -    ib. 

of  Cranberries  -  -  ib. 

d'Oranges  .  .  493 

Fauchonettes  k  la  Vanille  -  -  ib. 

Dauphines       ....  494 

Tartelettes  k  la  Pompadour  -  ib. 

Mirlitons  aux  Fleurs  d 'Orange  -    ib. 

aux  Amandes      -  -        495 

au  Citron     -  •     ib. 

PetiU  Vol-au- vents  k  la  Chantilly  (small)   ib. 

aux  Abricots  -    ib. 

klaGel^emousseuse  496 

Petits  Puits  aux  Pistachios  r  ib. 

Gateau  fourr^  k  la  Creme        -  •    ib. 


Gateau  foun^  an  Confitare  (preserve)     4#3 

on  d'Artois,  aux  Pommes  (apple*)  & 

Anglo- fran^aia         -  -  Ik 

Petits  au  Confiture  (small)         -  4M 

(round)  Petihi  -  -  & 

Petits  aux  Amandea        •  -  499 

Petits  Meringue       -  -  ft. 

Patisserie  d'Amandes  k  la  Cond^  -    & 

Turban  de  Cond^  k  la  Rhalmrbe       -        5W 

Petits  Gateaux  d'Abricota         -  -    Aw 


renveraes 


Petites  Boncb^es  a  la  Pfttissiere 
Even  tail  aux  Cerises  (cherries) 
Petits  Gateaux  a  la  Royale 
A  Flan  of  Puff  Paste 

de    Pommes  k    la    Portagaise 

(apples)       - 
Poires  (pears) 
Plane  a  la  Cr^me  praiin^ 
P&t^  &  Cboux 
Petits  Chonx  a  la  Creme    - 

aux  Amandea     - 
k  la  Comtease 
en  Gimblettes     - 
Petits  Pains  &  la  Cremi^re 
Madeline  au  vin  de  Porto 
Genoises    ... 
fourrees 
i  rOnuige 
aux  Pistaches 
Darioles    -  -  -  - 

Biscatelles      .... 
Gateaux  a  Plndienne  (cakes) 
Ganfl&es  aux  Pistaches 
a  I'AUemande 
&  la  Vanille  - 
Flamande 
Casalesry 
Red  Nougat  ... 

Small  Cu|)s  of  Nougat 
Nougat  d'Abricot  (apricot) 
Cbitaignes  Croqnantes  (crisp cbeannts) 
Amandes  Croq nan tes 
Meringues  k  la  Cuilli^re 
Turban  de  Meringues 

glao6  (iced) 
Petits  Meringues  aux  Pistaches 
Champignons  en  suxpriae 
Biscuit  manqu^  aux  Amandea 

au  Rhum 
Calf '8  Foot  Jelly    ... 
Gel^e  de  Dantzic  aux  Praises  (atraw- 
berries)     - 
Maresquin  aux  Pftches    • 
Noyeau  aux  Abricots 
Mactioine  aux  Fruits  de  belle 
saisoc 
Bordure  de  Poires  en  geli^  (p^an) 
Gel^  au  Rhum     ... 
Mousaeuse  k  I'Eau  de  Vie 
demie  chaude  froide  marbrfe 
fouett^s  aux  Fruits 
k  I'Ananas   - 


.  591 

ib. 

-    ft. 

S9i 


sm 

-  ik 

-  5M 
ib. 

-  ib. 
505 

-  ib. 
ih. 

.509 
ib. 

-  ib. 
50T 

>    ib. 

ib. 
-508 

ib. 

Si. 

sm 

ik 

ib. 
519 

ib. 
511 

ib. 
5J2 

ib. 

ib. 
513 
514 

ib. 

lb. 
515 

lb. 
516 

518 

ib. 

519 


iK 

520 

ib. 

521 
ib. 
Ik 


i 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


13 


PAOB 

Orange  Jelly  -            -           -  -  622 

in  the  sk  ins  of  the  orangv a    ib. 

Gel^  de  Fraises  (strawberries)       -  623 

d'Abricots          -            -  -    ib. 

k  la  Bacchante         -            -  ib. 

de  Fleun  d'Orange  an   vin  de 

CbampRgne  -            .  -  624 

Pain  de  Frait  a  la  Rasse    -            -  ib. 

Cr^me  k  la  Vanille      -            -  -    ib. 

aaz  PistAches          -            -  626 

a  I'Ananas  (pine-apples)  -  626 

aux  Amandes          -            -  ib. 

d'Orange          -            -  -    ib. 

anx  Praises  (strawberries)    -  627 

d'Abricots         -            -  -    ib. 

an  Poncbe  (punch)              -  ib. 

au  Maresquin  -            -  -  628 

Noyeaa  -            -            -  ib. 

Caf^             .            .  -    ib. 

Caramel             -            -  ib. 

Bavaroise  aux  Praises  (strawberries)  -  629 

Pramboises  (raspberries)    ib. 

Abricots            -  -    ib. 

Poires          -  630 

PoDimes  (apples)  -     ib. 

Ptstaches     -            -  ib. 

a  r Ananas  (pine-apples)  631 

Maresquin         •  -    ib. 

Ponche  (punch)       -  ib. 

Charlotte  Rnsse          -           -  -  632 

Prussienne          -           -  ib. 

Rnsse  en  mosaVqae  •  -    ib. 

Russe  aux  liqueurs          -  633 

anx  Praises  (strawberries)  -    ib. 

Gateanz  aux  Fruits  de  belle  saison  lb. 

Charlotte  de  Pommes  an  Beturre  •  634 

k  la  Confiture  (preserves)  636 

Chartreuse  de  Pommes  (apples)      -  ib. 

Su^doise  de  Pommes  (do.)      -  -  636 

Pain  de  Pommes  a  la  Russe            -  ib. 

Croquettes  de  Pommes            •  -     ib. 

Pommes  au  Riz      -            -            -  637 

Poires  au  Riz  (pear«)  -            -  -    ib. 

Abricots  au  Riz     ...  S3H 

Pommes  au  Riz  en  Timbale  (apples)  -    ib. 

a  la  Trianon         -            -  ib. 

Pommes  Meringu^   ...  539 

k  la  Vestale          -            -  ib. 

au  Beurre  (butter)    -  -  640 

Miroton  de  Pommes           -            -  ib. 

Beignets  de  Pommes   -            -  -641 

d'Oranges             -           -  ib. 

de  P^cbes  (peaches)  -  -  642 

d'Abricots            -            -  ib. 

Croquettes  de  Riz  (rice)          -  -    ib. 

Creme  au  Riz           -  643 

Macaroni           -  -     ib. 

Vermicelle   -            -  ib. 

Creme  Frite  k  la  P&tissi^re      -  -    ib. 

Beignets  SouflMs  k  la  VaniUe         -  644 

Frangipane     -            -            •  -    ib. 

Omelettes  k  la  C^lestine     -            -  646 

Pannequeta  k  la  Confiture  (preserve)  ib. 


RBMOyES.      SECOND  COURSE. 

PAGE 

Gateau  Britannique  i  I'Amiral  -  648 

Hure  de  Sanglier  glac^  en  surprise  (boar's 

head)  ....  549 
Cygne  glao^  en  surprise  (swan)  -  660 
Jambon  glac^  en  surprise  (ham)  -  661 

Gigot  de  mouton  bouiili  glac6  en  sur- 
prise (leg  of  mutton)        -  .  663 
Selle  de  Mouton  in  la  Jardinidre   en 

surprise  (saddle)  ...  653 
Cotelettes  de  Mouton  glac^  en  surprise  ib. 
Haunch  of  Lamb  glac^  en  surprise  -  664 
Shoulder  of  Lamb  glac6  en  surprise  ib. 

Cotelettes  d'Agneau  d  la  R^forme  en 
surprise  aux  Champignons  (mush- 
rooms)    ....  555 
Chapon  en  surprise  glac6  anx  Fruits    -    ib, 
Petits  Poussins  en  surprise  a  la  Suther- 
land ...  *  550 

Dindonneau  en  surprise  k  Ia  GondoUdre 

(turlcey)  -  -  -  557 

Peacock  4  la  Louis  Qnatorze  -        ^H 

Faisans  en  surprise  glac6  aa  Chocolat  ib. 
Maniveau  de  Champignons  gUic€   en 

surprise  ....  559 
Turban  de  Cond^  glac^  k  I'Ananas  660 

Bombe  demi  glace  a  la  Mogador  -    ib. 

C^rito's  Sultane  Sylphe  k  la  Fille  de 

rOrage    -  -  -        .    -  661 

Gateau  glac^  a  PEloise  (cake)       -  ib. 

Bidcuit  Mousseux  glac^,  on  eaiases  (in 

cases)       -  .  •  •    ib. 

Souffle  glac^  au  Curapoa    -  663 

Pouding  Sooffl6  glac^  a  la  M^phisto- 

pbeles      -  •  .  -    ib. 

Brioche  ....  51)4 
Baba  ...  ^q^ 

Brioche  au  Fromage  -  -        666 

frite  au  Tin  de  Madere  -    ib. 

Nougat  aux  Praises  (strawberries)  667 

Croque  en  bouche  ...  508 
Meringue  Pagodatique  k  la  Chinoise  669 
a  la  Parisienne         -  -671 

Nesselrode  Pudding  -  -  ib. 

Pouding  de  Cabinet  glac^         -  -  672 

Glace  Meringue  au  four     -  -  ib. 

Plombiere       -  -  .  .  573 

Plombi^res  Monsseuses  k  TOrange  ib. 

Gateaux  de  Fruit  k  la  Gel6e  d'Orange 

mousseuMO  (frothed)       -  -    674 

Gateau  Souffle  a  TEaseoce  de  Ponche      ib. 

0/ large  Souffles  for  Removes, 

Souffle  k  la  Vanille      -  -  -  676 

Fleur  d'Orange  (orange-flower)   676 

au  Caf6  vieige  (green  eoSee)    -     ib. 

k  la  Creme  de  Riz  (ground  rice)    ib. 

au  Citron  •  -  -    ib. 

Souffle  au  Macaroni  -  -        676 

Tapioca       -  -  677 

Rhum     -  •  ib. 

Omelette  Souffle        ^  -  67ft 


14 


TABLB  09  CONTENTS. 


OMlstta  SonlMe  k  I'AatioiHlVB     - 

4  U  CrJne 
SooM  aa  Gfag— hw  (gliiffar) 
CsriMf  (cbeniw)     - 
jui  d'OMQg*  0t  aa  Zerts  pra- 
IM  (bwnt  oraage-peel) 
Bbcnlti  8o«m^  k  la  Cftea 
Poadne  an  Parmcwn  at  Qrvjin 
k  U  NapoUtalaa    - 
PtotitBt  aa  Pita  d'ltallo 
(gimpla  Mftliod)    • 
Patitaa  (an  calana )  an  Stittm 
(iacaaaa)    - 
RaMaraiaa  •  .  • 

Patita  Itaanmili  an  fmnialage 
DiablotlBa  aa  Graj^va 
Croqaattaa  da  Macaroni  an  FtaeMge 


PA«t 

5T8 

lb. 

>    ib. 


Aapic 

Majomialaa  k  la  gaMe 


an  Ravigote  ferta 
onUnalra 

k  la  Profoo^ala    - 
Montpallar  Batter 
Focoaaaaat  for  raiaed  |rfaa 

of  lAnt  for  gama  plaa    - 
Sponge  caka   •  -  • 

Savoy  Cake  In  monld 

BiMnUts 
To  clarify  ItinglaM 
Glace  Roynlo  or  loeing 
Choeolata  leelng 


IK. 


ib. 

Ml 

Ib. 

ib. 


lb. 

lb. 

68M 

lb. 


S$5 

6%n 

lb. 

Ib. 

688 

689 

lb. 

lb. 
690 

ib. 
591 
698 
692 
698 

ib. 


Sugar  la  gmina 

To  ooloar  Sugar  in  gnina 

Vanilla  Soger 

Lemon  Soger 

To  clariiy  and  boU  Sugar 

Sacra  flU  (aagai  tbreada) 

lee  Cream  VanlUa 

Coffee 

Cbocolate 

Pineapple 

l<eaM>n 

Oiange 

Apricot     - 

Strawbenj 
Marmalade  Apple 

Apricot 

Qainoe 

Apricot  (transparent) 

Cberrf 

Strawberry 

Raipben/ 
Jallj  Apple     •  .  - 

Quince 

Carmnt  and  Raapbeny 
Corrant         •  • 

To  pieaerfe  Tomataa 
Table  of  the  Wealthy. 
Senrlce  Pagodatlqoe 
Bill  of  fare  (diner  poor  dix  paraonoes) 
Diner  LacaUoalan  i  la  Sompayo 
BiU  of  fare  (Reform  Clnb) 
Piaiogoe  CoUnaire  between  Lord  M— 

H—  and  A.  Soyer 
Paicriptioa  of  Kitcben  of  the  Refom 
Clab|  with  aectional  and  giooad 
plan,  and  Bomerooa  appaiatoi     • 


Pirn 

•  94 

ik 

-  ib 


St 

m 

ik 

ik 

5» 

ik 
ik 

m 

iL 

m\ 

ik 
ik 

ik 
ik 


ik 
ik 

ik 

Mf 

0OT 
AM 


613 


BMD  OP  COXTaVTi  TO  TBI  KITGHIM  OP  TH  WBAUraT. 


MY  KITCHEN  AT  HOME. 


PAGE 

My  Table  at  Home. 

Piefiitory  Address        -  -  -  631 

Reference  to  Plan  of  My  Kitchen  at 

Home  -  -  -        -  632 

Plan  of  My  Kitchen  at  Home         -        633 
Reference  to  Plans  of  Bachelor's  and 

Cottage  Kitchens     -  -  -  634 

Plan  of  the  Bachelor's  Kitchen       •        635 

Cottage  Kitchen  -    ih. 

Bill  of  Fare  for  Eight  Persons       -       636 

PLAIN  JOINTS. 

Of  the  Choosing  and  Roasting  of  Plain 
Joints  -  -  -  • 

Sirloin  of  Beef 

Ribs  of  Beef       .... 
Rump  of  Beef         .  -  - 

Baron  of  Beef  -  .  - 

Round  of  Beef         .  •  - 

Aitch-bone  of  Beef     .  .  • 

Brisket  of  Beef     - 

k  la  Garrick 
Haonch  of  Mutton 
Beyer's  Saddle-back  of  Mntton 
Saddle  of  Mutton 
Leg  of  Mutton    -        - 
Shoulder  of  Mntton 
Loin  of  Mutton 
Neck  of  Mutton     - 
Boiled  Leg  of  Mntton 

Shoulder  of  Mntton 
Saddle-back  of  Welsh  Mntton 


Haunch  do. 

Saddle  do. 

L^  do* 

Loin  do.  • 

Neck  do. 

Shoulder  do. 

Lamb         ... 

FiUetofVeal 

Loin  of  Veal 

Breast  of  Veal 

SbonUer  of  Veal 

Neck  of  Veal 

Knuckle  of  Veal    - 

Leg  of  Pork    ... 

Salt  Pork 

MADE  DI8HBB. 

French  Pot-an-fen      ...  049 

8OUPS. 

Julieiine  Soup      ...  652 

Mutton  Broth              -            -            -  653 

Irish  Mntton  Broth           .           -  ib. 
A  very  simple  receipt  for  the  Scotch 

Cock-a-leeky           .           -           -  ib. 


637 
639 
640 

ib. 
641 

ib. 
643 

lb. 

ib. 

ib. 
644 
645 

ib. 

lb. 
.  lb. 

ib. 

ib. 
646 

lb. 

ib. 

ib. 

ib. 

ib. 

ib. 

ib. 

ib« 
647 

ib. 

ib. 
648 

ib. 

ib. 

ib. 

ib. 


PAOB 

Ox-tail  Sonp          -            -  -        653 
Ox-cheek  Soup            ...  ^54 

New  Mock  Turtle  Soup  •          ib. 

Brown  Mock  Turtle  Soup       -  -    ib. 

Mulligatawny  Soup          -  -          655 

GibletSoup                 -            -  .    ib. 

Green  Pea  Sonp    -           -  -          ib. 

Winter  Pea  Soup        -            -  .    ib. 

Pur^e  of  Vegetable  Soup  -         656 

Maigre  Soup               .            -  -    ib. 

Onion  Soup  Maigre           -  .          ib. 

Vermicelli  Sonp          •           •  -    ib. 

Macaroni  Sonp      -           -  •         ib, 

FISH. 

Turbot            -            .            .  .656 

Tnrbot,  the  new  French  fashion  657 

illaCrftme     •            .  -    ib. 

John  DoT^,  Boulogne  fashion  -         ib. 

Salmon,  Plain  Boiled              •  -    ib. 

Sauce  Matelote    -  -         ib. 

Cod  Fish,  Plain  Boiled            .  -    ib. 

sauced  oyer  with  Oyster  Sance  ib. 

Haddocks             ...  656 

Baked  Haddocks         -            -  -    ib. 

Soles,  Fried            .           -  -         ib. 

the  Jewish  fashion        -  •    ib. 

Sole  k  la  Menni^re             .  .         ib. 

aux  Fines  Herbes            •  -    ib. 

Fried  Whiting        .           .  .          ib. 

Whithag  an  Gratin       .           •  .    ib. 

Red  Mullets         ...  659 

Mackarel        -           •           «  .lb. 

k  la  Mattre  d'H6tBl  .         ib. 

Gurnets          •           -           .  -    ib. 

Boiled  Gurnet       •           -  .         ib. 

Herrings  boiled  with  Cream  Sance      -    ibw 

Skate         .           .           -  .         ib. 

Flonndera       ....  Q«0 

FRESH- WATER  FISH. 

Pike        .           .           .  .'        660 

Sance  Matelote              -  -    ib. 

Stewed  Carp          -           -  •         ib. 

Carp,  Sauce  Matelote             -  -    ib. 

Tmite  k  la  Twickenham  -         601 

Burton                -  -    ib. 

Tench,  Sance  Matelote  -         ib. 

with  Anchovy  Batter  -    ib. 

Perch  fried  in  Butter         -  -          ib. 

Hampton  Court  fwhion  -    ib. 

Eels,  Fried           -            -  -          662 

Stewed  Eels,  Sauce  Matelote  -    ib. 

Gudgeons              -           -  -          ib. 

Escaloped  Oysters       -            -  -    ib* 

Stewed  Oysters       •           •  -          ib. 

Gratin  of  Lobsters      •           -  -    ib. 


16 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


PAGE 


SIMPLE  HORfl-  D  4BUTKB8. 


Rissoles  of  Oysters 
Lamb 
Rocambole,   or  Croquettes 

Game,  or  Poultry    - 
Lamb's  Fry 


663 
«    ib. 
of    Meati 

-    ib. 
ib. 


REMOVES  SIMPLIFIED. 

Stewed  Rump  of  Beef  -  -    ib. 

witfa  Onions  -  664 
Stewed  Rump  Steak  with  Oyster  Sauce  ib. 
Ribs  of  Beef  k  I'Hdtoll^re       -  -    ib. 

Beef  k  la  Mode      .  .  .  ib. 

Another  method  ...  665 

Ox  Tongue  -  •  -  ib. 

Loiaof  Veal  witfa  Stewed  Celery        -    ib. 

White  Sauce     -  ib. 

Dress  Fillet  of  Veal  for  Remove  -  666 

Breasts  and  Necks  of  Veal  -  ib. 

Half  Calf's  Head  with  White  Sauce    -    ib. 

in  Currie  -  ib. 

k  la  Vinaigrette         -667 

broiled.  Sauce  Plquanto  ib. 

Large  Veal  Pie  -  -  -    ib. 

Saddle  of  Mutton  k  la  Bretonne     -  ib. 

Leg  of  Mutton  Basted  with  Devil's  Tears  ib. 

the  Housewife's  Method    ib. 

Shoulder  of  Mutton,  Savoyard's  Method  668 

di  la  Polonaise  ib. 

Proven^ale  faahion    ib. 

Saddle  of  Lamb,  Berlin  fashion  -    ib. 

Leg  or  Shoulder  of  Lamb  with  Peas         ib. 

with  French  Beans  ib. 
Boiled  Leg  of  Lomb  with  Spinach  .  669 
Neck  of  Lamb  k  la  Jardiniere         •  ib. 

Lamb's  Head  Broiled,  with  Mince  Sauce 

or  Ssuce  Piquanto  -  .  ib. 

Loin  or  Neck  of  Pork  ^  la  Bourg^iinotte  670 

Normandy  fashion    ib. 

Pig's  Cheek,  a  New  Method  -  ib. 

Sucking  Pig  -  -  .    ib. 

Roast  Turkey      ...  670 

Braised  Turkey  •  -  .     ib. 

Capons  or  Poulardes         -  -  67] 

Fowls  with  Mushroom  Sauce  •     ib. 

Spring  Vegetables        -  ib. 

Braised  Fricassee  Sauce  -    ib. 

Roast  Goose  -  -  -  ib. 

Ducks  ....  Q72 

a  TAubergisto  (or  Tavern-keeper's 

fashion)  -  -  -    ib. 

Simplified  Entries  -  -  ib. 


SAUCES. 

Melted  Butter      ...  073 

New  and  Economical  Lobster  Sauce  ib. 

Lobster  Sauce  i  la  Cr^me        -  -    ib. 

simplified               •  674 

Shrimp  Sauce              -           -  -    ib. 

Anchovy  Sauce                   •           -  ib. 

Oyster  Sauce               .           .  -    ib. 

another  way               -  ib. 


pj«i 

Caper  Sauce  -  -  -  674 
To  chop  Onions,  Herbs,  &c.  -  ft. 
I'o  make  a  Colouring  or  Browning*  froa 

Sugar                -             -              -  CTi 

ECONOMICAL  MADE  DIBHBS. 

Fillet  of  Beef        -            -              -  ft. 

A  new  Steak                -              -  ~  $ii 

Fillet  or  Steak  k  la  Mattro  d'H^tel  ik 

A  new  Mutton  or  Lamb  Chop  .    ft. 

VealCotlete         -            -              -  977 

Pork  Chops                 -             -  -Ik 

Pork  or  Veal  Chops  Fried                 -  tk 

Hashed  Beef               -             •  .97% 

Remains  of  Salt  Beef         -              -  il. 

Ox  Tails  en  Currie      .             .  .    & 

Ragout  of  Ox  TaUs           -              -  19 

Ox  Cheeks                  -             .  .    ik 
Kidneys           *           -             .ft. 

CalTsHead     -            -             -  .'660 

Brains  and  Tongue                  -  Sl 

Veal  CuUets,  the  En^ish  Method  ft. 

Sweetbreads                 -             -  -  681 

Calf's  Liver  Stewed,  French  fairiiion  fti 

Fried        -            -  .ft. 
Minced  Veal  and  Poached  JBggs    - 
Mutton  CuUeti  sant^ 

sautes  with  Vegetables     ik 

Irish  Method  .    fti 

Broiled                   •  ftb 

Harricoed       -  .  6M 

Ragout  of  Mutton  en  curde           -  Ik 

Mutton  Currie            -           -  •    ik. 

Pork  Cutlete  saut^            -            -  ib. 

aux  Comichons  -  66i 

Sauce  demi  Robert    •  ftu 

Hashed  Pork              -            .  .ft. 

Pig's  Liver            -           -            -  ft. 

Pig's  Kidneys               -            .  .610 

Black  Puddings                  .            .  ib. 

Excellent  Sausage  Cokes         -  .687 

Pig's  Feet              -            -            .  ft. 

MADE  DISHES  FROM  POULTBT. 

Blanquettes  of  Turkey      •  ik 

Boodins  of  Turkey          -            -  689 

Turban  of  Croquettes        -            -  ib. 

Minced  and  Grilled  Turkey      -  -    ib. 

Devilled  Turkey     -            -            -  ib. 

Goose  Hashed             -            -  -    ft. 

Stewed  Duck  and  Peas      -            -  ik, 

Duckling  with  Turnips             -  -  681 

Fricassee  of  Fowl  or  Chicken         -  lb. 

with  Mushrooms  iK 

Currie  of  Fowl,  Oriental  fashion  •    ib. 

Booiled  Fowl         -            •            -  ik 

Fowl  Sauted  in  Oil     -            -  -  690 

Fricassee  of  Rabbits           -            -  lb. 

Gibelotte  of  Rabbite                -  -    ib. 

Currie  of  Rabbit                 -            •  ib. 

Rabbit  Pies                  -            .  .691 

Pigeon  Pies           -           •           -  lb. 

Pigeons  in  Compote                •  -    ib. 

Stewed  Pigeons  with  Pees              .  ik 


TABLE  OF   CONTENTS. 


17 


PAGE 


OAMB* 


Pheasants,  PartridgM,  Grouse,  Black 

Game,  Woodcocks,  etc.        -  -  601 

Small  Pheasants,  the  Miller's  Fashion    69S 

Pheatmnt  with  Cabbage            •  -    ib. 

Hashed  Pheasant               •           •  ib. 

A  plain  Salmi  of  Pheasants     •  -    ib. 

Grouse,  Scotch  Fashion                  •  ib. 

Partridgea  k  la  Jardiniere        -  -  693 

Partridges  with  Cabbage                 -  ib. 

Partrid^  Sauted  with  Moshrooms  ib. 

Woodcocks,  Downshire  Fashion  -    ib. 

k  la  Chasseur                «  ib. 

Hashed  Woodcocks                 -  •    ib. 

Snipes  k  la  Minute              -            -  694 

Plovers  with  English  Raw  Truffles  •    lb. 

Wild  Duck             •            -            -  ib. 

Hashed  Wild  Duck                  -  -    ib. 

Widgeons               -           -           •  ib. 

Teal,  a  New  Method                -  -    lb. 

Teal  k  la  Sans  Faf  on          -            -  695 

Larks  k  la  Minute      •           -  -    ib. 

Lark  Pie      .          -            -            -  ib. 

Jugged  Hare               -            -  -    ib. 

Another  and  more  simple  Method  ib. 


MEAT  PIES    AND  PVDDIHGS. 


Rump  Steak  Pie 
Mutton  Pie 
Lamb  Pie 
Beef  Steak  Pudding 


-    ib. 

696 

ib. 

ib. 


SECOND  COUnaE,   BITCIIKN   AT  HOME. 

Salad  of  Cold  Meat     •           -  -  698 

Lobster  Salad         -           -  -          ib. 

Fish  Salads                   -            -  -  699 

Potato  Salad            .            .  .          ib. 

Plain  Salad  kla  Fran$aise        -  •    ib. 

Jelly  of  TaHous  kinds  of  Fruit  •        700 

Orange  Jelly               -            -  -    ib. 

Whipped  Orange  Jelly        -  -        701 


Lemon  Jelly 

Currant  and  Raspberry  Jelly 

Strawberry  Jelly 


PAGE 

-  701 

ib. 

•    ib. 


JELUE8  OP  UQUEURS  AND  SPIBrrS. 

Maresquino  Jelly         -  •  -    ib. 

Syrup  of  Almond,  Iced  k  laVaisovienne, 

a  substitute  for  Blancmange  •  702 

Pineapple  Cream  •  *  ih. 

Prussian  Cream  -  -  -    ib. 


BOHEMIAN  JELLT  CRBAUS. 

Strawberry       -            -  -           -    ib. 

Apricot  Bohemian  Cream  -          ib. 

French  Custard  Cream  -            -  703 

Coffee  Custard  Cream         -  -          ib. 

Coffee  Custard  Cream,  White  -    ib. 

Chocolate  Custard  Cream  •          lb. 

Almond  Custard  Cream  -            -  704 

Cabinet  Pudding    -            -  -          ib. 

Bread  Pudding           -  •            -    ib. 

Ground  Rice  Pudding        -  -          ib. 

Rice  Pudding              -  -            -  705 

Macaroni  Pudding              •  -          ib. 

Gateau  of  Rice             •  -                 ib. 

Fruit  Puddings      -            -  -          ib. 

Pastry             -            -  -            -  706 

Short  Paste  for  Fruit  Tarts  -          lb. 

Apricot  Tarts              -  -            -     ib. 

GreeniTage  Tart     -            -  -        707 

Apple  Tart                   -  -            -    ib. 

French  Fruit  Tart              -  -          ib. 

Plain  Souffle  Puddings  -            -  tOH 

Souffle  Rice  Pudding         -  -         jb.^ 

Fruits  Meringued         -  •             .  *lb.' 

Snow  Eggs             -            -  •■        709 

Plum  Pudding  .          -  -            •     ib. 

Currant  Pudding                -  -          ib. 

Sweet  Macaroons         -  -            -  710 

Bitter  Macaroons,  or  Ratafias        -  ib. 

Mince  Meat    -            -  -            -     ib. 

Mince  Pies           -            .  .            ib. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 

Description  of  the  Composition  of  this  Work 

Soyer's  New  Mode  of  Carving 

Directions  for  Carving  -  -  -  -  - 

Beyer's  Tendon  Separator  -  -  -  - 

Directions  for  Larding         .  -  -  •  - 

Meat,  Poultry,  &c.  -  .  -  -  - 

Fish 

Vegetables  and  Fruit  .  -  -  - 

How  everything  should  be  in  Cooking  ... 

Braised  Roasted  Turkey,  Capon,  or  Fowl 
Amateur's  Receipts  -  -  -  ." 

Bouquet  de  Gibier,  or  Sporting  Nosegay 
Number  of  Stewpans  and  other  Kitchen  Utensils  required,  &c. 
Economical  Mode  of  Making  Coffee       .  .  - 

Monster  Bill  of  Fare    ------ 

New  Pagodatique  Entr^  Dish 

The  Celestial  and  Terrestrial  Cream  of  Great  Britain 


PAOE 

-     xi 
xiv 

XV 

XX  i 

XXV 

xxvi 

xxii 

ib. 

XXX 

xxvi 

lb. 

xxxii 

xxxiv 

711 

712 

713 

719 


47 


AN   ENTIRELY  NEW  AND   RELISHING 

SAUCE 


FOR 


COLD  OR  HOT  MEAT,  POULTRY,  GAME,  ETC, 

BY    A.    80YER, 

WHl  fbortly  be  ready  for  ntla,  in  Quart  or  Pint  BotUea,\nd  nmy  be  obtitned  at  all  Of 

prliici()al  Italian  Wanbouiet  in  the  United  Kingdoan. 


A  Second  Edition  of  my  D^lassements  CulinAU'es,  containing 

jX  La  PiUa  de  I'Orage^Renie  Seris  Baffa— Le  Mystere  des  Couliaaes  da  ThatredeSt 
ll||«0t^— Tribnlation  Domestiqae— La  lUve  d'an  Gonmiet-Le  Plat  d*£nli^  Patsaiiiti^ 
^La  Cr^me  de  la  Grande  Bcetag^ne,  will  be  sboitly  ready. 

Ofimon  of  the  Prets  on  iht  above, 

"  Not  eten  the  trinmpb  of  slcill  can  satisfy  tbe  thirst  of  distincHon  o§  M.  So^er.  Hk 
fancy  takea  a  bolder  fligbt,  from  tbe  banquet  to  the  ballet;  leaving  the  batteHe  de  enw"^ 
he  seeks  the  aid  of  the  press ;  and  on  his  firat  entrance  into  tbe  field  of  Uterataie,  *  i*"*  IT 
de  caract^re  heralds  a  new  plat  d'entr^e.  InvokiDg  inspiration  in  the  names  of  CcritoiiB 
Wanender,  oar  anthor  caters  fpr  the  toe  of  the  dansense  and  tbe  palate  of  tbe  ^^°[f^ 
one  and  the  same  time ;  and,  not  content  with  sketching  the  plot  of  a  grand  ballet  and  w 
bill  of  fare  of  a  petit  dtner,  the  daring  artist  givea  a  receipt  for  <  La  Cr^me  de  Gnw^ 
Bretagne ;'  the  ingredients  of  which  are  nothing  less  than  the  gifts  and  graces  of  tiie  bm" 
illnstrions  ladies  of  the  land.  . 

''  The  title  is  flashed  upon  the  dazzled  eyesight  of  flie  reader  in  Hfl^tning  ch«tcteit,^ 
scribed  upon  the  dark  boM>m  of  a  tbunder-clond- significant  of  the  hiilliant.  yfsy  «  ^ 

«<  Soyer  U  as  great  in  the  kitchen  as  JnUien  in  the  orchestra ;  and  his  adfent  in  ^^^ 
letters  has  raked  the  cook  abofe  the  conductor— the  biton  yields  to  the  spoon."' 4"^^'''^' 


MADAME  SOYER- 


INTaODUCTiON   TO   HER   PORTRAIT,   AND    BIOGRAPHY, 

A  general,  indeed  almost  umversal,  interest  has  been  evinced  for  the  loss 
of  the  late  Madame  Soyer,  by  reason  of  her  celebrity  as  an  artist,  whose 
close  adherence  to  nature  procured  for  her  in  France  (from  her  pictures 
which  were  exhibited  in  the  Louvre  in  Paris)  the  famed  name  of  the  English 
Murillo.  Her  paintings  evinced  a  great  partiality  for  the  same  subject,  and 
a  like  boldness  of  effect  and  sentiment  were  introduced  in  all  her  composi- 
tions, though  never  having  copied  or  tried  to  imitate  this  celebrated  master.* 
The  amiable  character  of  a  life  but  too  short,  induces  me  to  give  an  engrav- 
ing from  a  portrait  of  herself,  the  finished  touches  of  which  were  put  upon 
the  canvas  but  a  few  days  previous  to  her  lamented  decease  ;  her  career  was 
one,  while  it  lasted,  of  great  success,  and  must,  had  it  not  been  so  fatally 
brought  to  a  close,  have  resulted  in  the  highest  fame ;  as  it  was,  crowned 
heads  of  many  nations  paid  homage  at  the  shrine  of  her  talents,  and  the 
cultivated  sensibility  of  the  aristocracy  of  this  and  other  civilized  nations  has 
at  once  appreciated  her  artistic  excellences  by  the  spontaneous  expression  of 
admiration  upon  the  examination  of  her  works. 

I  feel,  and  am  proud  in  the  possession  of  such  an  emotion,  most  strongly 
— I  trust  not  too  mnch  so, — upon  this  sensitive  point.  Such  reasons,  together 
with  the  fact  that  Madame  Soyer  being  an  English  woman,  are  amongst  my 
motives  for  giving  here  a  short  biography  of  her  private  and  industrious  life, 
which,  although  it  appeared  in  nearly  every  journal  of  interest  at  the  period 
of  her  unexpected  death,  will  yet,  I  am  assared,  possess  claims  upon  the 
sympathy  of  her  countrymen  and  women. 

In  the  fullness  of  my  own  individuid  regard  for  her  memory  and  of  her  rare 

f'fts,  and  with  a  view  to  perpetuate  a  memorial  of  her  extraordinary  genius, 
have  for  some  while  been  adding  to  my  collection,  and  at  any  expense,  all 
those  of  her  paintings  which  may  come  within  my  reach. 

The  last  purchase  I  made  was  No.  43  in  the  catalogue,  a  Buy-a- Broom  Girl 
and  Boy,  from  the  celebrated  Saltmarsh  collection ;  this,  and  many  of  her 
other  works  are  to  be  met  with  in  the  galleries  of  men  of  the  greatest  (laste 
and  judgment. 

BIOGRAPHY. 

''August  2$.  Died  in  London,  in  her  29tk  year,  Emma,  the  wife  of 
M.  Soyer,  of  the  Eeform  Clnb  House,  Pall  Mall. 

"Madame  Soyer  (formerly  Emma  Jones)  was  bom  in  London  in  1813. 
Her  father  died  when  she  was  only  four  years  of  age,  and  left  her  to  the  care 
of  a  fond  mother,  who  sacrificed  the  prospect  of  an  increasing  fortune  to  de- 

*  ''  Bat  thondbi  m  hk  maimer,  none  of  her  works  has  the  least  sabscrriency  of  iioi- 
tation,  or  the  suffioess  of  copy." — TimM, 


2 

rote  her  time  entirely  to  the  edacation  of  her  child,  who  showed  greit  i&di- 
nation  for  study.  The  osaal  iDstructions  were  received  with  BUQoesi,  the 
French  and  Italian  languages  soon  acquired,  and  muiiic  became  a  fiTorite 
amusement ;  in  fact,  it  appeared  that  whatever  was  undertaken  was  of  euy 
accomplishment. 

"About  the  year  1817,  M.  Simonau,  a  Flemish  artist,  pupil  of  the  oel^ 
brated  Baron  Gros,  visited  London,  and  brought  with  him  some  of  lus  vorb, 
which  were  purchased  by  an  antiquary,  who  advised  him  to  open  an  acsdemj 
for  drawing  and  painting,  which  he  did,  and  in  a  short  time  gained  giat 
celebrity.  Mrs.  Jones  having  heard  of  the  fame  of  M.  Simonau,  went  to  him 
with  her  little  girl,  and  wished  him  to  give  her  lessons  ;  the  extreme  yoath  of 
the  child  at  first  made  him  hesitate,  but  at  length  he  consented,  and  when 
Emma  had  been  with  him  about  six  months,  she  showed  such  decided  tslent, 
that  her  mother  proposed  to  remunerate  him  for  the  loss  of  all  his  other  papik 
if  be  would  give  his  whole  time  to  her  daughter's  instmction  ;  to  this,  after 
some  consideration,  he  agreed,  and  every  succeeding  year  her  improTemeBt 
was  so  great,  that  before  the  age  of  twelve  she  had  drawn  more  thtn  i 
hundred  portraits  from  life  with  surprising  fidelity. 

*'  During  the  same  time  she  advanced  wonderfully  in  music,  under  the 
eminent  pianist,  Ancot,  who,  at  that  time,  was  patronized  b^  her  Roytl  Hi^- 
ness  the  Duchess  of  Kent,  and  was  a  great  friend  of  Rossini  and  Weber--uw 
last  of  these  heard  little  Emma  nlay  a  passage  of  his  *  Der  Freischud*  with  w 
much  execution,  that  he  declared,  in  the  most  flattering  terms,  that  she  vould 
become  a  brilliant  star  in  the  musical  world.  M.  Ancot  strongly  recoiB- 
mended  that  she  should  adopt  music  as  a  profession  ;  and,  as  her  mother 
feared  that  drawing  would  injure  her  health,  his  opinion  was  for  lomc  time 
adopted.  Through  the  following  circumstances,  however,  painting  ww  %sxs^ 
chosen  instead  of  music.  Mrs.  Jones  (who,  in  1820,  had  become  the  wifew 
M.  Simonau)  having  gone  to  the  continent  for  her  health,  young  Emms  one 
day  looking  out  of  a  window  at  Dunkirk,  saw  some  children  blowing  boo- 
bies, and  immediately,  with  a  piece  of  charcoal,  made  a  sketch  of  the  groQp 
upon  the  wall :  the  execution  of  this  rude  drawing  evinced  so  much  power,  vo» 
it  was  at  once  finally  decided  by  her  mother  and  M.  Simonau  to  adhere  to  toe 
original  intention  of  making  painting  her  principal  study,  and  that  mnfflc 
should  only  be  cultivated  as  an  accomplishment.  A  few  years  after  s  pictw* 
from  this  sketch  was  sold  at  Liverpool  for  sixty  pounds. 

"  At  an  early  age  many  original  paintings  and  portraits  bore  ample  testunony 
to  the  perseverance  of  the  mother,  the  care  of  the  master,  and  the  geniiM  o 
the  young  artist.  , 

"  In  1836,  MissEmma  Jones  was  married  to  M.  Soyer  at  St.  George's  charcfl, 
Hanover  square. 

"  In  1839,  the  poor  mother  died,  happy  that  her  daughter  had  attained^ 
nence  by  her  talents,  and  enjoyed  prosperity  with  the  husband  of  her  choi 
But,  alas !  the  happiness  of  nearly  six  years  was  destroyed  in  a  few  hoars , 
Madame  Soyer  was  taken  in  premature  labour,  and  died  on  the  ^^^^^ 
regretted  by  all  who  knew  her.    She  was  of  a  most  amiable  and  cheerfttl 
position,  a  kind  friend,  excellent  and  affectionate  wife,  too  modest  to  setm»<^ 
value  upon  her  works,  leaving  the  palette  to  attend  to  her  household  ^^. 

"  The  acuteness  of  her  husband's  feelings  was  painfully  increased  by  hw  « 
fortunate  absence,  being  at  Brussels  at  the  time  with  the  suite  of  the  *^^i  . 
Saxe  Cobourg-Gotha,  who  had  seen  M.  Soyer  in  his  culinary  departmentat 
Reform  Club,  and  having  greatly  admired  several  of  Madame  Soycr's  pJC**"** 


did  her  the  honour  to  Bubacribe  for  a  print  from  her  picture  of  the  '  Young 
laraelites/  which  has  since  been  dedicated,  by  permisBion,  to  his  Serene 
Highness."  * 

"  The  death  of  this  kdy  has  been  a  source  of  great  regret  to  all  the  lofrers 
and  encouragers  of  art.     Cut  off  at  a  moment  when  her  reputation  was  about 
to  make  her  fortune,  and  when,  in  spite  of  all  obstacles,  her  merits  were  be- 
come known  to  her  countrymen,  it  is  a  sad  reflection  that  she  can  no  longer 
enjoy  the  encomiums  she  so  justly  deserves,  nor  share  in  those  rewards  which 
were  about  to  be  conferred  on  her.    Besides  an  immense  variety  of  drawings, 
sketches,  and  studies,  she  had  painted  upwards  of  400  pictures,  some  of  them 
of  very  high  merit,  and  some  of  them  which,  when  exhibited  in  the  Louvre, . 
obtained  the  highest  meed  of  praise.    No  female  artist  has  exceeded  this  lady 
as  a  colorist,  and  very  few  artists  of  the  rougher  sex  have  produced  portraits 
so  full  of  character,  spirit,  and  vigour,  and  that  boldness  and  breadth  of  light 
and  shadow  which  constitutes  one  of  the  highest  triumphs  of  art.     She  was 
exceedingly  clever  in  recognizing  the  character  of  tjiose  who  sat  to  her,  so 
that  her  portraits  convey  the  mind  as  well  as  the  features  of  the  sitters,  their 
thoughts  and  sentiments.  Her  group,  already  mentioned,  depicting  Two  Boys 
selling  Lemons,  has  been  recently  engraved  by  Gerard  of  Paris,  in  mezzotint, 
and  is  a  fine  illustration  of  the  talents  of  the  deceased.     It  partakes  of  the 
style  of  Murillo ;  but,  though  in  his  manner,  it  has  not  the  subserviency  of 
imitation,  nor  the  stiffness  of  copy.     There  are  a  few  of  Madame  Soyer's 
paintings  at  the  Reform  Club-house,  which  will  well  repay  a  visit  firom  those 
who  have  a  taste  for  genuine  merit  and  real  nature."' — Times. 

The  three  following  letters  are  selected  from  a  numerous  correspondence, 
as  exhibiting  at  once  sympathy  for  her  loss,  and  admiration  for  her  talents. 

''  Gotha,  le  4  Janvier,  1843. 

A  MONSIEUB  ALEXIS  BOYEIl. 
MOMSIEUBy 

Je  vous  suis  tr^  oblige  du  dessin  original  fait  du  feue  Madame  votre 
spouse,  ainsi  que  des  gravures  d'apr^s  le  tableau  des  jeunes  Israelites,  que 
vous  avez  bien  voulu  m'envoyer. 

"  C'est  avec  beaucoup  d'int^r^t  que  j'adjoindrai  k  ma  collection  de  dessins 
les  produits  d'un  talei^aussi  distingu6  que  celui  de  feue  Madame  Soyer. 

''  En  vous  disant  xm  remerdmens  et  en  souhaitant  que  le  temps  adoucit 
votre  grande  et  juste  douleur  sur  sa  perte  pr^matar^,  je  vous  assure  encore 
de  toute  mon  estime. 

"  Eenest  Duo  db  Saxe-Qotha." 

"  Cambridge  House,  le  21  Mai,  1846. 

"MONSIEUE, 

"  Je  suis  charge  de  la  part  de  S.  A.  R.  Monseigneur  le  Due  de  Cambridge 
de  vous  remercier  pour  T  envoi  des  trois  tableaux,  peints  par  feue  Madame 
votre  Spouse,  qui  ont  €t6  d(iment  admires  et  appr^ci^s,  non  seulement  par 
S.  A.  R.,  le  Due,  mais  aussi  par  Madame  la  Duchesse,  ainsi  que  par  ceux  a 
qu'il  a  ^te  donne  de  les  voir. 

♦*  J'ai  rhonneur  d^^tre,  Monsieur, 

"  Votre  tr^s  humble  et  ob^issant  serviteur, 

"Le  Baron  de  Kmesebegk." 

*  Gentleman's  Magazine. 


it 


<^  SUibcd  HoQie,  YendradL 

^  La  Oacbesse  de  Sutherland  pr6sente  sea  compliments  ^  M.  Soyer,  et 
acoepte  avec  plaiair  la  dedicace  de  la  grayure  *  d'apr^  le  tableau  peini  par  feoe 
Madame  Soyer. 

"  Elle  a  appiis  avec  bien  du  regret  la  perte  immenae  (pi'il  a  fidte." 


KXHOBIAL  TO  THE  LATE  MADAME  SOYER,  THE  CELBBBATEB  ABTIST. 

**  The  inaugoration  of  a  splendid  monument,  erected  to  the  memory  of 
Madame  Soyer,  whose  name  is  so  intimately  connected  with  the  genius  of  art, 
took  place  on  Sonday,  before  a  numerous  and  distinguished  party,  at  Kenaal 
Green  Cemetery,  llie  design^  which  is  quite  new,  is  by  M.  Soyer,  her  hus- 
band, and  reflects  the  greatest  credit  upon  that  gentleman,  who  is  so  well 
known  from  his  position  at  the  Reform  Club.  It  consists  of  a  pedestal,  about 
twelve  feet  in  height,  surmounted  by  a  colossal  figure  of  Faith,  with  her 
right  hand  pointing  towards  heaven,  and  the  left  supporting  a  golden  cross. 
At  her  feet,  lightly  floating  upon  clouds,  are  two  cherubims,  the  one  holding 
a  crown  over  the  head,  and  the  other  presenting  a  palm  to  a  beautiful  medal- 
lion of  the  deceased ;  the  latter  executed  in  white  marble,  and  surrounded  by 
the  emblem  of  eternity.  A  palette  and  brushes,  embellished  with  a  wreath 
of  unfading  laurels,  is  gracefully  placed  beneath  the  medallion.  M.  Puyen- 
broack,  of  Brussels,  one  of  the  principal  sculptors  to  his  Majesty  the  King  of 
the  Belgians,  has  added  to  his  fame  by  this  new  example  of  lus  talent. 
Althou^  the  figures  of  the  monument  are  larger  than  life,  so  light  and  elegant 
is  their  construction,  that  the  observer  might  almost  fancy  they  were  leaving 
this  terrestrial  sphere,  while  the  cherubims,  poised  upon  the  ascending  clouds, 
convey  such  an  idea  of  buoyancy,  that  one  is  led  to  believe  that  the  heavy  and 
solid  stone  (like  the  pure  and  eternal  spirit  of  her  who  sleeps  below;  had 
taken  its  departure  from  earth,  and  was  following  that  shade  whose  memory 
it  was  erected  to  perpetuate.  We  are  informed  that  the  palette  and  brushes, 
with  the  laurel  and  her  initials,  were  sketched  by  the  lamented  artist  the 
morning  previous  to  her  death,  she  being  then  in  perfect  health  ;  while  the 
medallion  is  from  her  portrait  by  M.  Simonau,  her  father-in-law,  and  only 
master. 

"  Amongst  the  parties  present  at  the  inauguration  we  perceived  the  fair 
Cerito,  bestowing  upon  the  shrine  of  her  sister  artial  a  wreath  /uncraire, 
made  from  a  crown  placed  upon  her  head  in  La  Scala,  at  Milan,  before 
several  thousands  of  her  country  people.  Such  feeling  impressed  all  with 
the  highest  respect  for  that  fairy  child  of  Terpsichore,  and  deserves  a  distin- 
guished place  m  the  history  of  art.  The  wreath,  together  with  the  palette 
of  the  artist,  will  be  placed  in  a  glass  case,  and  fixed  at  the  back  of  the  pedestal. 
The  inscription  upon  the  pedestal  will  be  simply  the  words  '  To  Her,'  without 
any  addition  whatever." — Morning  Post,  1844. 

EXTBACTS  FEOM  THE  PRESS. 

*'  L'Angleterre  sera  ven^  par  une  femme  de  r^chec  dont  Messieurs 
Foggo  sont  tombes  les  victimes.  Madame  Soyer  de  Londres  nous  a  envoye 
deux  morceaux  exquis ;  si  nous  pouvions  disposer  d'une  couronne  aa  plus 
digne,  c'est  assurement  4  elle  que  nous  rendrions  cet  hommage ;  ne  pouvant 
pas  presenter  de  lauriers,  donnons  lui  la  premiere  place  dans  nos  colon  nes : 
pour  la  correction  du  dessin,  la  vigueur,  le  mod^e  et  la  puret^  du  colons,  ce 

•  "  La  C^i^  Anglaise." 


^ 


^ 


•        •         • 


• 


t  • 


aont  1^  lea  qualites  qui  seraient  envi^B  par  les  plus  habilea  de  noa  maitrea. 
Maia  ce  que  noua  admiroiia  par-deaaoa  tout,  dana  aon  aena  le  plna  vrai,  eat  la 
touche  delicate,  la  douceur  du  coloria,  toujoura  plein  de  aoupleaae  et  de 
naiTet^/' — La  Bevue  dea  Deux  Mondea. 

'*Une  Glanetue,  par  Madame  Soyer,  de  Londrea,  a  paaae  inaper9u.  Lea 
<sritiquea  et  le  public  ae  aont  bien  gardte  d*en  parler,  parce  que  ce  tableau, 
quoique  renfermant  de  tr^  nandea  qualit6a,  ne  plait  paa  au  premier  abord. 
Noua  ne  connaiaaona  point  Madame  Soyer ;  noua  ne  pouiriona  m^me  dire  ai 
ce  nom  eat  un  paeudonyme,  ou  a*n  eat  yeritablement  celui  de  cette  artiate. 
Ce  qu*il  y  a  de  aingulier,  c'eat  que  jamaia  aucune  femme  .n'a  peint  ayec 
antant  de  verre,  de  cbaileur  et  d' entrain.  Madame  Soyer  (en  auppoaant  tou« 
joura  que  Madame  Soyer  aoit  une  femme)  eat  aux  autrea  peintrea  ce  que 
Madame  Geoi^  Sand  eat  aux  litterateura.  Noua  verrona  plua  tard  ai  cette 
femme-peintre  ae  aoutiendra,  et  ai  aea  productiona  prochainea  vaudront  oellea 
de  eette  annee." — La  Capitole, 

**  The  appearance  of  a  very  beautiful  engraying  of  the  picture  of '  The  Jew 
Lemon-aeUera'  reminda  ua  of  the  loaa  which  art  haa  auatained  in  the  death 
of  Madame  Soyer.  Thia  gifted  lady,  better  known,  perhapa,  aa  Miaa  Emma 
Jonea,  haa  been  anatched  away  in  the  midat  of  a  career,  the  opening  aucceaa 
of  which  fhlly  juatified  the  moat  flattering  anticipationa  of  her  numeroua 
fiienda*  Some  of  Madame  Soyer'a  picturea  exhibited  here  were  the  aubjecta 
of  very  general  admiration,  and  auch  of  our  readera  aa  yiaited  the  laat 
exhibition  at  Paria  (where  Madame  Soyer  waa  eyen  more  popular  than  in 
England)  will  recall  with  pleaaure  her  picture,  in  the  atyle  of  Murillo,  of  '  The 
Two  laraelitea,'  which  receiyed  ao  much  praiae  from  the  French  critica.  The 
deyotion  of  Madame  Soyer  to  the  art  which  ahe  ao  much  adorned  by  her 
talents  ia  illuatrated  aa  much  in  the  number  aa  in  the  excellence  of  her 
worka,  which  form  the  basia  of  a  laating  and  honorable  fame.  Although 
but  twenty-nine  yeara  of  age  when  ahe  died,  ahe  had  already  painted  no  leaa 
than  403  picturea.  Many  of  them  are  in  the  poaaeaaion  of  the  moat  diatin- 
guiahed  coUectora  in  thia  country." — Morning  Chronicle, 


KITCHEN  OF  THE  REFORM  CLUB. 

*'  We  copy  the  following,  by  the  Vicounteaa  de  Malleyille^  from  the  laat 
number  of  the  Courtier  de  V Europe,  Without  aubacribing  to  the  juatiee  of 
all  the  writer'a  remarks,  we  think,  aa  the  opinion  of  an  intelligent  foreigner, 
that  the  article  will  be  read  with  some  interest. 

'* '  We  now  quit  the  upper  legiona  and  follow  the  aecretary  of  the  club,  and 
the  Boliteat  and  moat  obhging  cicerone  in  the  world.  Theatrically  apeaking, 
we  haye  aa  yet  only  aeen  the  atage  and  ita  aumptuoua  decorationa  nrom  the 
boxea  and  pit ;  we  now  go  behind  the  acenea,  among  the  acene-ahiflera  and 
the  machimsta.  But  un&e  in  a  theatre,  we  aee  no  naked  walla  behind  the 
acenea — no  tattered  draperiea — no  floors  strewed  with  sawdust.  This  flne 
apartment  ia  the  kitchen— apacioua  aa  a  ball-room,  kept  in  the  finest  order» 
and  white  as  a  young  bride.  All-powerful  steam,  the  noise  of  which  salutes 
your  ear  aa  you  enter,  here  performa  a  yariety  of  officea :  it  difluaea  a  uniform 
heat  to  large  rowa  of  di^ea,  warma  the  metal  platea,  upon  which  are  disposed 
the  dishes  that  haye  been  called  for,  and  that  are  in  waiting  to  be  aent  aboye ; 
it  tuma  the  apita,  drawa  the  water,  canriea  up  the  coal,  and  moyea  the  plate 


6 

like  an  intelligent  and  indefatigable  servant.  Stay  awhile  before  thia 
gonal  apparatus,  which  occupies  the  centre  of  ihe  place.  Around  you  the 
water  boils  and  the  stewpans  bubble,  and  a  little  further  on  is  a  moyeable 
furnace,  before  which  pieces  of  meat  are  converted  into  savoury  rMs — here  are 
sauces  and  gravies,  stews,  broths,  soups,  &c. ;  in  the  distance  are  Dutch  ovens, 
marble  mortars,  lighted  stoves,  iced  plates  of  metal  for  fish,  and  various  com* 
partments  for  vegetables,  fhiits,  roots,  and  spices.  After  this  inadequate, 
though  prodigious  nomenclature,  the  reader  may  perhaps  picture  to  bimagaf 
a  state  of  general  confusion,  a  disordered  assemolage,  resembling  that  of  a 
heap  of  oyster-shells.  If  so,  he  is  mistaken.  For,  in  fact,  you  see  very  little, 
or  scarcely  anything,  of  all  the  objects  above  described ;  tiie  order  of  their 
arrangement  is  so  perfect,  their  distribution  as  a  whole,  and  in  their  relatiTe 
bearinss  to  one  another,  all  are  so  intelligently  considered,  that  you  require 
the  aid  of  a  guide  to  direct  you  in  exploring  them,  and  a  good  deal  of  time  to 
classify  in  your  mind  all  your  discoveries. 

"  '  The  man  who  devised  the  plan  of  this  magnificent  kitchen,  over  which 
he  rules  and  governs  without  question  or  dispute,  the  arti&te  who  directs  by 
his  gestures  his  subalterns  tricked  out  in  white,  and  whose  eye  takes  in  at  a 
glance  the  most  difiicult  combinations  in  the  culinary  art — in  a  word,  the 
chef  by  whom  every  gourmet  admitted  within  the  precincts  of  the  Reform 
Club  swears,  is  M.  Soyer,  of  whom  it  may  justly  be  said  that  he  is  not  mofe 
distinguished  as  a  professor  of  the  science  of  the  Vatds  and  Caremes,  than 
as  a  well-behaved  and  modest  man.  AUow  him,  therefore,  to  give  you  the 
history  of  his  discoveries  and  improvements  ;  let  him  conduct  you  mto  the 
smallest  recesses  of  his  establishment,  the  cleanliness  of  which  would  shame 
many  a  drawing-room ;  and  listen  to  him,  also,  as  he  informs  you  that  those 
precious  pictures  which  crowd  his  own  parlour  are  from  the  pencil  of  a  wife 
who  has  recently  been  taken  from  him  by  a  premature  death.  Of  this  you 
might  almost  doubt  till  he  again  affirms  it,  for,  judging  from  the  poetry  of 
the  composition,  and  the  vigour  of  the  colouring  and  the  design,  you  might 
swear  that  these  pictures  were  the  work  of  MuriUo  when  he  was  young. 

"  '  Let  all  strangers  who  come  to  London  for  business,  or  pleasure,  or 
curiosity,  or  for  whatever  cause,  not  fail  to  visit  the  Reform  Club.  In  an 
age  of  utilitarianism,  and  of  the  search  for  the  comfortable,  like  ours,  there  is 
more  to  be  learned  here  than  in  the  ruins  of  the  Colisenn^  of  the  Parthenon, 
or  of  Memphis.'  " — Chtmb^s^s  Journal, 

"  Workhouse  Cookery. — ^The  disclosures  in  the  Andover  Union  have  thrown 
quite  a  new  light  on  the  science  of  cookery,  which  not  even  the  inspiration  of 
a  Soyer  could  have  hit  upon.  That  ingenious  chef  de  cuisine  has  blended 
together  pastry  and  politics ;  with  considerable  skill  he  has  invented  a  Cr^me 
d' Angleterre,  consisting  of  charms  borrowed  from  the  female  aristocracy ;  but 
.those  ingredients,  imaginary  and  imsubstantial  as  they  are,  must  be  con- 
sidered as  solids  when  compared  with  the  materials  used  for  constitating  the 
dishes  served  up  to  the  paupers  in  the  Andover  Union.  Butter,  according  to 
the  new  poor  law  cookery,  is  made  f^om  the  skimmings  of  grease  pots,  and 
parochial  tea  is  made  f^om  boiling  old  leaves  which  have  already  had  theor 
strength  drawn  out  of  them. 

"  A  new  cookery  book,  edited  by  M'Dougal,  the  master  of  the  Andover 
Union,  is  evidently  a  desideratum  in  culinary  literature,  which  even  Soyer*8 
universal  genius  has  hitherto  left  unsupplied.  — Punch. 


THE  GASTRONOMIC  REGENERATOR. 


OPIl^IONS  OF  THE  FKESS. 


TBS    TZMS8. 

The  Gatirmumie  Regenerator,— The  Modem  Cook. — <^  Any  body  can  dine,''  gays  the 
clever  and  profound  author  of  the  *  Original,'  "  but  very  few  know  how  to  dine  so  as  to  ensure 
the  greatest  quantity  of  health  and  enjoyment.''  The  pith  and  truth  of  this  remark  are  un* 
questionable ;  and,  indeed,  we  know  nothing  more  painful  than  that  utter  disregard  of  the  very 
flnit  principles  of  gastronomic  science  evinced  by  so  many  unprincipled  and  reckless  individuals 
of  the  present  day,  who  eat  as  though  the  sole  object  of  eating  were  to  sustain  life.  Not 
that  they  take  the  best  means  for  accomplishing  even  that  ignoble  end.  The  rules,  whose 
observance  renders  eating  a  luxury  and  an  art,  also  conduce  in  the  highest  degree  to  health. 
Sacrifices  to  Ceres  and  Bacchus,  In  the  very  act  of  the  offering,  should  have  a  sweet  fragrance 
)n  the  nostrils  of  Hygeia. 

Who  shall  affix  a  boundary  to  the  possible  progress  of  an  art  1  Let  the  vulgar  do  so,  who, 
struck  by  apparent  perfection,  conclude  at  once  that  the  force  of  genius  "  can  no  further  go." 
We  assert  fearlessly  that  the  limits  of  human  creation  and  Improvement  are  yet  unknown. 
Least  of  all  are  they  to  be  defined  with  reference  to  that  great  art  which  has  been  styled 
*'  the  standard  and  gauge  of  human  civilization,''  and  which  Montaigne,  with  less  respect^ 
denominated  the  science  de  la  gueute.  Sceptics  were  they  who,  revelling  at  the  table  of  Louis 
XIV  in  the  sauces  of  a  Bechamel,  or  lli^cering  at  the  board  of  the  great  Cond6  over  the 
eheft  d^ctuore  of  a  Vatel—that  illustrious  martyr  to  a  point  of  culinary  honour  I^-or  Inhaling 
gently  and  delicately,  and  degustating  slowly, and  with  marvellous  discrimination,  the  exqui- 
site and  quintessential  results  of  the  vigils  of  an  Ude,  who  refused,  in  their  turns,  to  believe 
that  the  science  professed  by  these  great  men  could  be  capable  of  improvement,  or  was 
susceptible  of  higher  elevation.  Alas !  have  we  not  lived  to  vote  the  resources  of  all  jmt- 
rttque  and  rocoeoy  and  to  behold  the  precious  laurels  that  wreathed  the  temples  of  the  culinary 
demigods  of  the  18th  century,  transferred  by  acclamation  in  the  19th  to  the  mighty  brows 
of  a  Carftme  and  a  Beanvilllers,  a  Soyer  and  a  Francatelll — great  names  every  one — poetizers 
of  the  spit,  philosophers  of  the  larder,  sublime  fire-worshippers,  high  priests  of  a  kitchen 
fuller  than  Druidical  groves  of  deep  and  sacred  mysteries  7 

The  two  bulky  and  important  volumes  before  us  are  characteristic  of  the  distinguished 
artists  to  whom  we  owe  them.  Written,  the  one  by  a  Frenchman,  the  other  by  an  English- 
man (for  Mr.  Francatelll,  in  spite  of  his  name,  boasts  of  an  Anglican  origin),  they  differ 
greatly  in  form,  although  in  substance,  as  far  as  the  uninitiated  may  judge,  they  are  equally 
excellent.  The  Modern  Cook  enters  upon  his  task  in  a  grave  and  business-like  fashion, 
never  tempted  into  digression,  never  moved  into  metaphor,  ever  keeping  in  view  his  mam 
object,  which,  we  arj  proud  to  say,  is  eminently  patriotic,  for  he  seeks  to  elevate  the  cha- 
racter and  position  of  the  English  Cook,  and  to  produce  a  work  creditable  to  the  gastronomic 
knowledge  of  the  nation.  *<  The  Gastronomic  Biegenerator"  is  a  different  personage.  He  can 
afford  to  garnish  his  prose  with  the  flowers  of  fancy,  as  his  material  dishes  are  crowned 
with  enmetadee  and  atelettes  ;  he  handles  with  equal  ability  the  quill  of  Pegasus  and  the 
larding-needle,  and  records  with  the  former  the  achievements  of  the  latter,  in  a  strain  of 
enthusiasm  and  heroic  sensibility  that  are  not  to  be  surpassed  even  in  the  odes  of  a  poet 
laureate.  We  confess  at  the  outset  that  there  is  much  to  marvel  at  in  the  recondite  pages 
of  the  Regenerator,  but  there  is  nothing  to  admire  more  than  his  matchless  modesty,  his 
courteous  urbanity,  his  devotion  to  the  fair  sex,  and  his  occasional  touching  and  highly 
bnaginative  digressions. 

"  Why  do  you  not  write  and  publish  a  Cookery- book  ?  was  a  question  continually  put  to 
me.  For  a  considerable  time  thU  scientific  word  caused  a  thrill  of  horror  to  pervade 
my  frame,  and  brought  back  to  my  mhid  that  one  day,  being  in  a  most  superb  library 
in  the  mkist  of  a  splendid  baronial  hall,  by  chance  I  met  with  one  of  Milton's  allegorical 
works,  the  profound  ideas  of  Locke,  the  several  che/a  d^atwre  of  one  of  the   nobleei 


8 

cbampioni  of  litxsntcure,  Sbakspeiure;  when  all  at  once  my  attention  waa  attnetod  hf 
tbe  nineteenth  edition  of  a  Toluminoaa  worlt :  sacb  an  immense  succeds  of  pofalicatioa 
caused  me  to  say,  '  Oh  !  yon  celebrated  man,  posterity  counti  every  boor  of  fame  upon 
your  regretted  asbes !'  Opening  this  woric  with  intense  curiosity,  to  my  great  disap- 
pointment what  did  I  see, — a  receipt  for  Ox-tail  Soup  I  Tbe  terrifying  effect  produoed 
upon  me  by  this  succulent  volume  maide  me  determine  that  my  few  ideas,  whether  cnUnajy  or 
domestic,  should  never  encumber  a  sanctuary  which  should  be  entirely  devoted  to 
worthy  of  a  piace  in  the  Temple  of  tbe  Muses." 

Why,  then,  great  artist,  transgress  this  noble  resolution  ?    Why  commit  a 
which,  indeed,  is  no  desecration,  save  to  your  own  pre-eminent  and  too  fastidious  jndgnieDt  ? 
Ah,  shall  we  confess  it  ?    It  is  the  old  story,  familiar  to  the  playgoing  public,  and  to  the 
printers  of  playbills.    "  The  particular  desire  of  several  persons  of  distinction/'  «id  especi- 
ally of  the  ladies,  to  whose  appeals  M.  Soyer  informs  us  be  could  never  turn  a  deaf  ear,  has 
dragged  the  sage  from  his  retirement,  and  compelled  him  to  do  violence  to  a  settled  ooovic- 
tion  and  «  holy  purpose.  Some  idea  of  the  sacriiSce  which  M.  Soyer  was  called  upon  to  maka 
by  the  entreaties  of  the  ladies  and  the  distinguished  indtvidook  adverted  to,  may  be  gatbeied 
from  the  history  of  the  hero  during  the  composition  of  his  worlc.    For  tan  montke  he 
laboured  at  the  pyramid  which  the  remotest  posterity  shall  applaud ;  and  during  tbe  whole  of 
that  period  be  was  intent  upon  providing  the  countless  meab  which  a  livtaig  generation  have 
already  approved  and  fully  digested.    Talk  of  the  labours  of  a  Prime  Minister  or  Lotd 
Chancellor  I     Sir  R.  Peel  was  not  an  idle  man.     Lord  Brougham  is  a  tolerably  busy  one. 
Could  eltber,  we  ask,  in  the  short  space  of  ten  months — ten  <*  little  mouths" — Iwro  written 
'  The  Gastronomic  Regenerator,'  and  furnished  25,000  dinnen,  38  banquets  of  impertanee. 
comprising  above  70,000  dishes,  besides  providing  daily  for  00  servants,  and  receivii^  tile 
visits  of  15,000  stmngers,  all  too  eager  to  inspect  tbe  renowned  altar  of  a  great  Apiciaa 
temple  ?    AU  this  did  M.  Soyer,  and  we  back  him  for  Industiy  against  even  tlie  indefotigahie 
Brougham. 

That  more  than  one  of  the  38  banquets  were  of  tbe  highest  moment,  and  most  at  tibe  time 
have  engrossed  the  mind  of  their  accomplished  author,  to  tbe  serious  derangement  of  hb 
literary  avocations,  admits  of  no  question  the  moment  we  peruse  one  bill  of  fare  which 
M.  Soyer  places  before  our  dazzled  and  admiring  eyes.    A  memorable  dinner  was  given  at 
tbe  Reform  Club,  upon  the  9tb  day  of  May  of  the  present  year,  to  a  select  parly  of  ten 
higbly*gifted  connoiuseuTs ;  none  of  your  gobble-and-gulp  people,  who,  in  tiieir  nMlaBoiioly 
ignorance,  swallow  a  potage  a  la  Ctmie  de  Parig,  or  a  rissolette  d  la  Pompadour,  with  the 
same  frightful  nonehaumee  as  a  sailM  will  devour  his  pea-soup,  or  a  rustle  bolt  his  bacon  ; 
but  creatures  of  ethereal  natures,  devotees  of  what  the  painters  call  <*  high  ait;''  men  wlio 
feed  their  bodies  only  to  give  elasticity  and  vigour  to  their  souls.    The  IHjwr  LaeaAssMit  ^ 
la  !Sampayo  was  ordered  with  a  magnificent  contempt  of  expense.    No  money  was  to  be 
spared  in  obtaining  the  most  novel,  luxurious,  and  rare  compounds  that  ingenuity  could 
discover  or  gold    procure.     Stimulated   by  the  anxious  and  repeated  visits  of  a  noble- 
splrited,  and  judicious  gnide,  a  Grove  and  a  Jay,  a  Townsend  and  a  Morel,  a  Slater  and  a 
Solomon,  surpassed  themselves  iu  the  quality  of  the  viands  they  purveyed.    One  diab,  tile 
"  Buuson  d*Ecr6mste9  Pagodadoue  au  vin  de  Champagne  tL  la  Sampayo"  cost  something 
more  than  seven  guineas — a  trifle !  Two  laige  bottles  of  Perigord  truffles,  value  four  guineas, 
were  stewed  with  the  icrioigeet  in  champagne.    We  have  no  tieart  to  proceed,  for  **  tlie 
author  regrets  that,  in  fulfilment  of  an  agreement  between  him  and  M.  Sampayo,  he  is  re- 
stricted from  giving  the  receipt  of  crawfish  ^  la  Sampajfo.**    Why  was  the  dish  mentioned  at 
all,  if  the  world  is  still  to  be  deprived  of  tbe  receipt  ?  The  loss  is  a  national  one.   Doulitiesa 
it  would  have  been  very  popular  at  the  small  clubs,  and  in  great  request  with  gentlemen  of 
limited  incomes!     But  to  return  to  the  incomparable  dinner.    There  were  doireUes  oaur 
/euiUee  de  vignes,  and  there  was  miroion  de  homard  out  teufs  de  plmner,  and  ttiere  were 
many  other  dishes,  too,  enough  as  you  would  think  to  crown  the  bappinesa  of  a  cook, 
and  to  satisfy  tbe  ombilion  of  the  proudest  caterer  in  Christendonu    You  know  not  cooks. 
At  page  608  of '  The  Regenerator,'  tbe  soft  sigh  of  a  Soyer  falls  painfully  upon  the  render's 
ear  $  and  no  wonder  I     A  brilliant  thought— one  of  those  superb  inspirations,  the  property 
of  great  minde— had  occurred  to  our  autl^or  during  the  procreation  of  thto  matchless  baSquet 
Mentioned  by  him  to  the  mysterious  and  too  exclusive  Sampayo  and  his  friends,  they  cai^hl 
with  joy  the  idea.     Two  dozen  of  ortolans  and  twelve  of  the  largest  and  finest  tmlBea  were 
to  be  procured,  and  in  each  of  the  latter  a  hole  was  to  be  dug,  wherein  one  of  the  nnctooos 
and  semi-transparent  little  volatlles  was  to  be  buried.    Yes,  the  delicate  native  of  Provence 
gloriously  interred  in  the  choicest  production  of  Perigord ;  then  must  a  piece  of  calf  or 
lamb's  caul  (exquisite  minuteness  of  description  ! )  cover  the  aperture  and  shelter  tbe  in* 
prisoned  bird ;  then  was  there  to  be  braising  in  a  gravy  of  fowls  and  Lacbrynus  Christ!, 
poached  forcemeat  upon  the  dish,  tbe  truffles  in  pyramid.    Upon  that,  a  pm^  with  the 


9 

trnflc  that  had  b«eii  dog  out  of  the  graves,  and  a  gamititre  of  roasted  ortolaiw •  Stapendoof 
thought  t  we  have  read  of  saperlor  minds  overcoming  obstacles  long  deemed  insarmonntable, 
and  have  gathered  from  the  perosal  strength  for  the  difficult  struggle  of  life.  Such  strength 
And  we  here.  «  An  ortolan,''  said  Alexis  Soyer,  pondering  on  the  difficult  and  self-ap- 
pointed tasic,  "  an  ortolan  can  hardly  he  truffled,  but  I  will  undertake  that  a  truffle  shall  be 
ortolaned  !"  He  might  have  added,  <*  'Tis  not  in  mortals  to  command  suooess  ;  well  do 
more,  Sampayo,  we'll  deserve  it;"  for  great  as  the  Regenerator's  conception  vras,  it  was 
not  destined  to  be  realized.  The  elements  were  nnpropitious,  and  the  ortolans  did  not  arrive 
in  time  from  Paris,  whence  they  had  been  ordered.  This,  however,  was  the  only  failure. 
Everything  else  was  to  the  turn,  the  minute.  At  seven  o'clocic  the  Severn  salmon  arrived  alive, 
and  by  express  from  Gloucester.  Ten  minutes  later  it  smoked  upon  the  board.  Happy 
Sampayo  I — happier  guests ! — immortal  Soyer  \ 

We  turn  to  the  pictorial  portton  of  this  notable  book.  After  the  agreeable  portrait  of  the 
antbor,  which  faces  the  title-page,  the  first  of  the  woodcuts  that  attracts  attention  is  '<  The 
Table  of  the  Wealthy/'  with  the  motto,  **  Rien  ne  dupotetmett*  Pemrii  kumain  a  dts  (rant- 
aetimu  amiealeg  qu'un  din§r  hien  amfu  et /irtitiement  pt^par^,*'  A  great  maxim  of  diplo- 
macy I  How  many  treaties  of  peace  and  commerce  have  owed  their  conclusion  to  the 
mollifying  effects  of  a  series  of  good  dinners !  What  numerous  misunderstandings  have  been 
arranged  and  thorny  points  happily  settled,  less  by  the  wisdom  of  the  ambassador  than  by  the 
ability  of  the  ambassador's  cook  1  On  a  judiciously-compounded  sauce,  or  a  r^'  euit  a  point, 
or  the  seasoning  of  a  saimi,  or  the  twirl  of  a  etuterole,  may  depend  the  fate  of  a  crowned 
head,— the  marriage  of  a  prince,— the  weal  or  woe  of  a  nation.  Is  cookery,  then,  no  art  ? 
Truly  is  it- the  behest,  the  noblest  I 

A  Mcond  plate,  '•  My  Table  at  Home,"  represents  M.  Soyer,  In  hiM/oyerg,  preskUng  over 
a  select  party  assembled  round  his  hospitable  and  well-furnished  bmid.  Behold  again  the 
unrivalled  gallantry  of  the  country,  and  the  individual  finding  a  vent  in  a  poetic  and  touching 
smile.  **  A  gastronomical  rewuoHf  without  ladies,"  says  the  chief  cook  of  the  Reform 
Chib,  '*  is  a  parterre  without  flowers,  the  ocean  without  waves,  a  fleet  without  sails." 

Talking  of  fleets,  let  us  pass  on  at  once  to  the  Turkey  d  la  NeUon,  which  deceased  but 
much  honoured  bird  is  placed  with  its  tail  in  the  prow  of  a  Roman  galley,  duly  provided 
with  anchor,  sail,  and  all  fitting  appurtenances,  and  surmounted  by  fictitions  ducklings, 
manufactured,  as  we  are  informed,  but  should  never  have  divined,  of  the  legs  of  fowls. 
Further  on  we  have  the  Gateau  Britanni^ue  d  CAmiraly  a  comely  corvette  of  cake,  coppered 
with  chocolate,  displaying  wafer  sails  and  sugar  rigging,  tossing  upon  waves  of  gelie  d  la 
Bacchante, — her  canvap  swelling  to  a  favouring  breeze,«->her  sides  dripping  with  wine  and 
marmalade, — her  interior,  even  to  the  hatchways,  filled  with  such  a  freight  as  none  but 
Soyer  could  provide,  and  perfect ^otirmete  thoroughly  appreciate.  It  is  whispered  that  upon 
this  gallant  ship  Commodore  Napier  did  fearful  execution  in  the  presence  of  bis  quondam  foe 
and  present  friend,  Ibrahim  Pacha,  when  that  illustrious  individual  dined  with  the  Com- 
modore at  his  club.  Assaulting  the  craft  with  the  fierce  impetuosity  for  which  the  hero  of 
Acre  is  so  renowned,  and  thrusting  his  boarding-pike — bis  spoon  we  would  say — deep  into 
the  hold  of  the  luscious  craft,  be  (festroyed  in  an  instant  Soyer's  labour  of  a  day.  Timbers 
were  stove  in  or  out,— .sails  came  down  iy  the  run, — mast^  went  by  the  board,— and  all  was 
wreck,  where  a  second  before  all  had  been  symmetry  and  perfection. 

Nothing  that  relates  to  the  kitchen  or  the  table  has  been  neglected  or  overlooked  by  the 
Regenerator.  We  have  plans  and  drawings  of  kitchens  of  every  description,  from  the 
matchless  establishments  of  the  Reform  Club,  with  its  ice  drawers,  slate  wells,  steam  closets, 
bams  marie,  and  fifty  other  modern  refinements,  to  the  unpretending  cooking-places  of  the 
cottage  or  the  bachelor.  But  perhaps  the  section  of  the  book  to  be  chiefly  prized  by  the 
general  reader  and  indifferent  gastronome,  is  the  short  one  relating  to  carving.  Good  carvers 
are  almost  as  rare  as  good  tenor  singers.  The  proper  dissection  of  flesh  and  fowl  is  a  matter 
of  high  importance,  rarely  excelled  in,  but  should  be  always  studied.  It  is  an  accomplish- 
ment almost  as  indispensable  as  reading  and  writing,  and  quite  as  graceful.  "If  yon  should, 
unhappily,"  says  Launcelot  Sturgeon,  In  bis  Essays,  Moral,  Philosophical,  and  Stomachic, 
"  be  forcpd  to  carve  at  table,  neither  labour  at  the  joint  till  you  put  yourself  in  a  heat,  nor 
make  such  a  desperate  effort  to  dissect  it  as  may  put  your  neighbours  in  fear  of  their  lives ; 
however,  if  an  accident  should  happen,  make  no  excuses,  for  they  are  only  an  acknowledg- 
ment of  awkwardness.  We  remember  to  have  seen  a  man  of  high  fashion  deposit  a  turkey 
in  this  way  in  the  lap  of  a  lady,  but  with  admirable  composure,  and  without  offering  the 
slightest  apology,  he  finished  a  story  which  he  was  telling  at  the  same  time,  and  then  quietly 
tnmhig  to  her,  merely  said, '  Madam,  I'll  thank  you  tor  that  turkey.' "  To  those  who 
may  not  possen  similar  coolness,  and  the  same  stoical  indifference  to  the  fate  of  ladies' 
dresses  and  the  results  of  ladies'  indignation,  M.  Soyer's  improvements  in  carving  are  valuable 
Indeed. 

'*  Nature,  says  I  to  myself,  compels  us  to  dine  more  or  lest^  once  a  day  ;  each  of  those 


10 

dtyi  yon  are,  honorable  reader,  subject  to  meet  en  tiU'-h'tite  with  a  fowl,  poolanle,  dOEfc* 
pbeaaant,  or  other  volatile  species ;  is  it  not  bad  enough  to  have  sacrificed  the  lives  of  thoos 
aninuita  hieitfaisant  to  satisfy  our  indefatigable  appetites,  without  pulling  sDd  teariag'  to 
atoms  the  remains  of  our  benefactors  ?  it  is  high  time  for  the  credit  of  humanity  and  the 
comfort  of  quiet  families,  to  put  an  end  to  the  massacre  of  those  innocents." 

Incomparable  benevolence  I    Tenderest  commiseration  !     Perfect  humanity !      "  l^e  will 
be  sBcrifioers,  not  butchers,  Cuius  Cassius."    The  philanthropic  progress  of  the  ceotury  bat 
reached  the  kitchen,  and  animal  love  is  most  intense  in  the  vicinity  of  the  stockpot    Whst 
would  the  kitchen  of  the  Reform  Club  be  without  humanity  and  the  liberal  sentinnents  ?  No 
more  will  barbarous  coolu  be  haunted  by  horrid  visions  of  the  night !     Incipient  porken 
shall  no  longer  pine  away  their  sweetness,  and  strive  to  toughen  their  crackling  in  anticipa- 
tion of  a  final  flagellation.     Eels  shall  no  longer  be  required  to  give  up  their  skins  before 
their  ghosts,  and  some  humaner  process  than  a  surfeit  of  food,  a  deprivation  of  drink,  and  a 
gradual  roasting  near  a  scorching  fire,  will,  let  us  hope,  be  discovered,  to  give  to  the  livers  of 
clucks  that  glorious  expansion  and  pinguid  ricbneas  so  much  appreciated  .by  the  epicure.  We 
will  not  despair  of  witnessing,  under  the  dominion  of  M.  Soyer,  the  introduction  and  use  of 
some  instrument  analogous  to  the  guillotine,  which  by  a  stroke  shall  do  its  deadly  necewaiy 
work :  nay,  might  not  advances  lately  made  in  Mesmerism  be  turned  to  good  account  in 
procuring  painless  death  to  those  whom  the  feeling  Soyer  so  beautifully  calls  our  '*  bene- 
factors ?      A  goose,  in  a  state  of  coma,  wonld  be  uncognizant  of  the  penknife  that  dindee 
its  jugfular ;  calves  and  sheep  properly  subjected  to  the  action  of  the  magnetic  fluid  wonld 
pass  from  life  into  the  larder  without  a  straggle  or  a  groan.    But  to  carving !     For  joints, 
our  author  gives  most  lucid  directions,  which,  if  properly  studied,  cannot  fail  to  convert  tiie 
merest  tyro  into  an  admirable  carver.    For  game  and  poultry  he  has  done  more.    He  has*  uh 
vented  an  instrument,  to  be  had  at  Bramah's,  in  Piccadilly,  and  with  which  printed  direc* 
tions  are  given,  by  the  aid  of  which  the  joints  of  birds  are  severed  without  the  smallest  detriment 
to  their  good  looks.    "  Formerly,"  he  says,  *'  nothing  was  more  difficult  to  carve  than  wiU 
fowl,  the  continual  motion  (when  alive)  of  the  wings  and  legs  making  the  sinews  ahaost 
as  tough  as  wires,  puzzling  the  best  of  carvers  to  separate  them ;  my  new  method  has  qoils 
aix)lished  such  a  domestic  tribulation."    For  which,  as  well  as  for  the  many  other  benefits 
conferred  by  him  upon  the  human  race  and  the  brute  creation,  we  beg  to  reiterate  our  humble 
hearty  thanks  to  the  talented  author  of '  The  Gastronomic  Regenerator.' 


O    GKSOWIO: 


AUsii  Sojfer,  the  Gastronomie  Regeneratcr.^^Tstyhody  who  knows  him,  everybody  who 
has  sat  before  his  dishes,  everybody  interested  in  the  promotion  of  the  Reform  cause,  or  who 
likes  to  have  a  good  dinner  at  home,  has  long  since  said  in  his  heart  **  Why  does  not  Soyer 
write  a  book  about  cookery  V*  When  Reform  was  flagging,  when  Peel  had  it  all  his  own 
way,  before  a  country  party  was  thought  of,  or  a  revolt  seemed  possible,  when'  the  idea  of 
the  Whigs  coming  In  was  hopeless,  and  the  party  therefore  needed  consolation,  what  dU 
Soyer  do  ?  At  that  moment  of  general  depression  Alexis  Soyer  invented  etUleU  d  la  r^ferme. 
He  didn't  despair,  he  knew  the  avenir  that  was  before  the  party.  Ha  rallied  them  round 
the  iiivigoratii^^  table,  from  which  they  rose  cheered  and  courageous ;  flushed  with  victuals, 
their  attack  upon  the  enemy  was  irresistible  (as  under  such  circumstances  the  charge  c^ 
Britons  always  is),  and  Downing-street  may  be  said  to  be  the  dessert  of  the  dinners  in  Pall- 
mall.  He  Is  one  of  the  greatest  politicians  and  pacificators  in  the  world.  If  they  had  bim 
In  .Conriliation-hall,  even  there  they  would  leave  off  quarrelling.  Look  at  his  influence  upoo 
the  diplomacy  of  our  country !  In  this  very  day's  paper  appears  an  account  of  a  dinner  at 
that  very  Reform  Club  which  Soyer  loves,  and  which  has  stood  as  sponsor  to  the  great  cut- 
lets which  he  Invented— of  a  dinner  at  which  Lord  Palmerston  and  Ibrahim  Pacha  had  tbeir 
hands  in  the  same  dish  of  pilaff,  and  the  maker  of  that  dish  was  Alexis  Soyer.  To  such  a 
noble  and  magnanimous  spirit  as  Soyer's  evidently  is,  such  a  meeting  will  cause  pride  and 
thankfulness  indeed.  It  is  a  happy  omen.  They  have  eaten  salt  together,  and  the  peace  (tf 
the  world  is  assured. 

How  it  was  that  Gibbon  came  to  write  the  '  Decline  and  Fall ;'  under  what  particular 
chrcumstances  Newton  conceived  the  theory  of  gravitation ;  how  Scott  invented  his  works, 
dec,  are  historic  anecdotes  with  which  all  i)ersons  interested  in  literature  are  familiar.  It  is 
always  pleasant  to  know  bow  and  where  a  great  thought  came  into  the  brain  of  a  great  man, 
and  so  it  is  agreeable  to  know  bow  this  cookeiy  book,  which  all  the  world  longed  for,  was 
suggested  to  Soyer.  (See  the  Preface.) 

Surely  this  preface  is  one  of  the  most  remarkable  documents  that  ever  ushered  any  book 
into  the  world.  Soyer  has  made  it  a  rule  never  to  refuse  anything  In  his  power  to  the  ladies 
(the  rogue)  !— and,  amongst  other  favours,  they  asked  him  for  a  cookery-book*  The  lequest 


11 

cfiiued  him  **  a  tbr'iU  of  horror ;"  but  being  in  a  library  in  the  midst  of  a  hall,  where  he  met 
with  tme  of  Milton's  allegorical  worlcs,  Locke's  profound  ideas,  and  several  eliefi  tTauvre  of 
tbi&t  noble  champion  of  literatare,  Sbalcspeare,  what  should  his  eye  torn  to  bat  a  cookery- 
book  closeted  in  such  company  I  '<  The  terrifying  effect  of  that  succulent  Tolume"  made  hiny 
determine  that  he  never  would  write  a  book  of  the  culinaiy  sort 

What  was  the  consequence  ?  The  very  determination  not  to  write,  forced  him  into 
'*  a  thouMind  gastronomic  reflections."  Write  he  must,  and  it  was  sheer  modesty  that  gene- 
rated the  Regenerator.  Mark  the  pleasantry  upon  the  word  "  lost,"  the  last  word  in  the 
preface,  and  fancy  Soyer  lost  in  Paradise.  Tempter !  if  you  had  been  in  any  such  place,  to 
what  could  you  not  have  persuaded  the  first  gourmand  !  In  fine,  Soyer  determined  to  write 
this  book,  because  he  justly  '*  considered  that  the  pleasures  of  the  table  are  an  oTeiy-day 
enjoyment,  which  rtfiecU  good  €md  etil  on  all  classet"  And  when  we  remember  that  he 
has  written  the  work  in  ten  months,  during  which  he  has  also  supplied  25,000  dinners  to 
the  gentlemen  of  the  Reform  Club,  and  38  dinners  of  importance,  comprising  70,000  dishes  ; 
that  he  had  to  provide  daily  for  60  servants,  and  to  do  the  honours  of  the  club  to  15,000 
visitors,  one  may  fancy  what  genius  and  perseverance  can  accomplish.  He  says  be  is 
*<  entirely  satisfied  with  the  composition,  distribution,  and  arrangement  of  the  volume." 
Esegit  monumentum  in  fact.  He  has  been  and  done  it  He  gives  you  his  signature,  his 
))ortrait  en  buste,  and  another  full  length,  in  which  he  is  represented  in  his  parlour  at  home 
(where.  In  spite  of  his  avocations,  he  has  leisure  to  receive  his  friends  and  consume  a  most 
prodigious  quantity  of  victuals),  surrounded  by  a  select  society  of  private  friends,  dispensing 
to  them  some  of  the  luxuries  which  he  describes  in  his  700  pages. 

After  a  few  prefatory  observations  about  carving,  for  which  he  has  invented  a  new  and 
apparently  successful,  though  unintelligible  method — about  larding,  which  he  recommends 
to  the  English  '*  middle  classes"— the  seasons  offish  and  game,  &c. — ^the  utensils  for  the 
kitchen — Soyer  plunges  into  sauces  at  once,  as  the  gpreat  test  of  culinary  civilization.  Tlie 
key-sauces  are  the  White  Sauce,  No.  7,  and  the  Brown  Sauce,  No.  1.  They  are  the  vriii- 
cipia  of  the  science— they  are  the  sauces  which  Soyer  daily  and  principally  uses.  If  the 
reader  suspects  that  we  are  going  to  transcribe  the  formula  for  the  preparation  of  these 
sauces,  he  is  disappointed.  No;  let  those  who  want  the  sauce  buy  the  book,  and  enjoy 
both. 

From  sauces  we  go  to  "  Potages  or  Soups"  (and  what  are  these,  in  fact,  but  dilated  and 
agreeable  sauce  ?),  commencing  with  the  clear  light  broth,  or  first  stock  of  soup,  and  pro- 
ceeding to  a  hundred  deUcious  varieties — the  Louis  Philippe,  the  Jerusalem,  the  Marcus- 
Hill,  the  Princess  Royal,  &c.  Nothing  can  be  more  delicate  or  worthy  of  a  young  princess 
than  this  latter  little  soup ;  whereas  the  '*  potage  k  la  comtesse,"  beginning  with  **  cut  half 
a  poand  of  lean  ham  witii  an  onion,"  is  of  a  much  stronger  character.  All  these  soups  are 
flavoured  with  appropriate  observations,  as,  for  instance — "  In  fact  it  is  much  better  for  all 
thick  soaps  to  be  too  thin  than  too  thick."  Louis  Philippe  soup,  he  says,  should  contain 
**  Brussels  sprouts,  boiled  very  green."    Here  is  surely  some  wicked  satire  here. 

From  soup  we  come  to  fish,  as  in  the  order  of  nature ;  thence  to  the  hors-d'oravre  and 
removes,  to  the  fiancs,  the  entries,  the  roasts,  the  vegetables,  the  sweets,  or  the  entremets, 
and  the  second-course  removes.  As  the  critic  reads  from  page  to  page  his  task  becomes 
absolutely  painful,  so  delicioos  is  the  style,  so  "  succulent"  are  the  descriptions,  and  so  pro- 
voking the  hunger  which  they  inspire.  Every  now  and  then  you  get  anecdotes,  historical 
and  topographical  allusions,  <fec  (See  p.  472.) 

How  finely  it  is  written  1  '*  Will  your  excetteney  call  to-morrow  morning?"  Talleyrand's 
friend  says  nothing,  but  yon  see  his  rank  at  once,  and  when  his  excellency  is  gfone,  the  Prince 
of  Benevent  rings  the  bell  and  orders— some  of  his  favorite  dishes.  There  is  an. account 
in  the  volume  of  crawfish  anx  truffes  k  la  Sampayo,  which  makes  one  almost  frantic  with 
hunger. 

And  what  will  the  reader  say  to  this  dish,  which  is  the  invention,  not  of  Soyer  the 
cook,  but  of  Soyer  the  poet:— <' The  Celestial  and  Terrestrial  Cream  of  Great  Britain." 
(Seep.  719.) 

If  this  dish  was  provided  for  his  Highness  Ibrahim  Pacha  last  night,  no  Eastern  prince 
Rince  the  days  of  the  Barmecide  was  ever  so  entertained.  Ardebit  Alesim,  His  Highness 
will  be  bribing  away  this  Gascon  genius  at  any  price  to  Cairo.  He  will  become  -^i^-— — 
Pacha,  and  the  cause  of  Reform  will  beg^in  to  droop. 

Besides  poetry,  there  are  pictures  in  this  incomparable  volume.  The  dindonneau  k  la 
Nelson  (of  which  the  croustade  is  the  bow  of  a  ship,  in  compliment  to  the  hero  of  Aboukir) 
is  a  picture  worthy  of  Turner.  The  engraving  of  Soyer's  own  parlour,  where  a  pretty  maid 
is  in  waiting  (and  an  exceedingly  pretty  girl,  by  the  way,  is  seated  by  the  great  artist)  is 
an  enticing  interior,  in  which  any  roan  would  like  to  let  his  portrait  appear.  The  picture  of 
"  Salade  de  Grouse  k  la  Soyer"  is  a  capital  portrait,  and  will  be  recognized  by  all  who  know  and 
love  the  original.  Soyer's  own  portrait  we  have  mentioned  before.  But  perhaps  the  finest  and 


12 

moti  Interacting  work  of  art  in  tba  ▼ofaiine,  te  the  plate  at  p.  '294.  which  igpieaeuU.  of  the 
DAtural  alze«  a  matton  eutlet,  a  porlc  cutlet,  and  a  lamb  entlet  Tbi«  cat— tiiia  plato  of  c«t- 
iMtn  we  ihould  Bay-*-ia  incomparable. 

TBS   mOMMTmU    90ftY. 

In  spite  of  all  that  we  have  heard  for  some  yean  pa«t  aboat  the  enU^teniaent  of  the  age, 
there  are  Htill  certain  vnlgar  errors^  and  errors  on  vary  vital  anbjecti,  to  which  the  EngUafc 
adhere  with  all  the  conatancy  of  niartyrB. 

Perhapa  these  errors  are  more  abundant  in  relation  to  the  preparattoo  of  food  thftn  to 
almost  any  otlier  metier.  At  present,  in  the  middhi  of  the  nineteenth  oentniy,  the  geaevaUty 
of  people  in  England  have  only  roast  and  boU^  after  a  laahion ;  and  there  the  CQlinmrj 
acquirements  of  the  moltitude  find  tiieir  eztrame  limits.    Others,  there  are,  indeed,  who 
talce  a  higher  flight ;  they  aflfect  soups  and  gravies,  and  even  aspire  to  pat  vegetaUee  on  theiF 
tables ;  bat  in  all  these  cases  nothing  can  be  more  inartiAcial  than  the  system  panned.    Hot 
water  is  the  chief  ingredient,  and  pepper  the  ooadiment    Thus,  lor  soap;— fry  two  or 
three  slices  of  coane  beef  in  plenty  or  fat,  boil  it  in  watsr,  and  satonte  it  with  pepper  and 
salt,  and  year  tureen  is  provided  for.    Of  matton  broth  wib  are  not  so  sure  of  the  process ; 
but  the  decoction  has  all  tiie  appearance  of  being  composed  of  the  eternal  hot  water,  stirred 
with  a  tallow  candle,  to  give  the  necessary  number  of  globoles  of  grease  on  the  surface,  and 
ornamented  at  the  top  with  a  few  floating  particles  of  parsley.  A  gnvy  in  OMire  frequent  one  is 
exceedingly  simple.     When  a  leg  of  matton  is  roasted,  the  person  miscalled  a  ooolc  poon  a 
teacupful  of  water  over  the  joint,  and  the  grofy  is  oomplete*    VagetaUes  are  only  reqalied 
to  retain  as  much  as  possible  of  the  fetid  water  in  wUkch  they  ate  boiled,  and  to  be  aonk  as 
deep  In  melted  batter  as  a  river  bound  ooUier  is  in  the  sesrand  they  am  considered  *'  a  dainty 
dish  to  set  before  a  king." 

Such  are  a  few  everyday  examples  of  the  English  pnetfce  of  ceolcery — principlea  it  evi- 
dently has  none.  In  France  they  order  these  things  diflbrentiy.  During  a  suooession  of 
revolutioiis,  extending  over  a  space  of  nearly  siz^  yean,  oonstitntions  have  been  abandoned 
as  soon  as  adopted ;  kings  and  nobles  have  been  murdered ;  but  La  Cmtine  has  ever  been 
held  inviolate,  and  chefs  deserving  of  the  name  have  not  ceased  to  he  venerated.  And  wliat 
is  the  result  ? — that  in  France,  where  the  raw  material  is,  with  the  single  exeeption  of  veal, 
perhaps,  inferior  to  oon,  a  dinner  can  be  produced  worthy  of  LneoUna ;  in  England,  aas« 
imder  the  superintendence  of  French  artists,  such  a  feat  is  plainly  impossible.  Surely,  then, 
it  behoves  us  to  do  what  we  may  for  availing  ousselveN,  in  their  fullest  extent,  of  the  advan- 
tages we  have  received  from  nature,  not  perhapa  by  going  the  somewhat  eztieme  length  timt 
we  have  heard  suggested,  of  establishing  professonhips  of  gastronomy  in  our  univonities^  on 
the  broad  ground  that  domestic  is  as  well  worthy  of  being  encouraged  aa  political  economy, 
but  by  pvoftting,  to  the  best  of  oar  aMHties,  under  the  instructions  of  those  whorsally  under- 
stand the  art  in  which  we  are  so  lamentably  deficient.  So  desirable  an  object  has  hitherto 
been  baffled  by  the  popular  prejudice  that  good  cookery  is  necessarily  unwholesome.  It  is 
no  such  thing.  An  accomplished  cook  is  an  accomplished  chemist ;  he  knows  the  sevecol 
affinities  of  substances  for  each  other,  and  not  only  balances  these  with  the  atmost  exactitode, 
but  even  prescribes,  with  the  same  view,  the  particular  description  of  wine  prooar  to  each 
stage  of  hie  banquet.  We  all  remember  the  celebrated  answer  of  Carftme  to  George  IV, 
whose  cuisine  he  superintended  while  that  sovereign  was  regent.  '*  Carftme,"  saki  the 
prince,  "  your  cookery  will  be  the  death  of  me ;  see  how  I  am  sulfining  from  indigestion." 
<'  Sire,''  replied  the  professor,  ''  I  am  Innooant  of  the  charge ;  it  is  my  du^  to  provide  yon 
with  a  dinner,  the  discretion  to  uae  it  piopeiiy  must  originate  with  your  ro^  higlmesa."  Sto 
true  is  it  that  the  evil  lies  in  the  abuse  and  not  in  the  nse  of  good  things. 

Another  objection  to  elaborate  cookery  is  the  expense  it  is  supposed  to  involve.  Both  the 
points  have  been  satisfactorily  met  in  tlm  work  before  us.  The  mnny  receipts  famished  by 
M.  Soyer,  and  tbay  amonnt  to  nearly  two  thousand,  afford  evklence  at  once  of  careful  study 
and  of  extreme  delicacy.  Everything  gross  is  excluded,  and  the  more  nutritious  portions  of 
food  are  alone  preserved,  in  such  forms  as  to  please  the  eye  and  the  palate,  without  embar- 
ramment  to  the  digestire  process.  Neither  of  these  objects  is  attained  under  thn  ordinary 
English  system.  Huge  joints  oflend  the  sight,  and  half-raw  meat  teaics  the  oigona  of  diges- 
tion beyond  their  povrer,  by  presc  nting  to  them  masses  of  unbroken  ilhres.  To  save  trouMe 
to  the  stomach  the  fibre  must  be  destroyed  by  the  action  of  heat,  and  this  can  nerer  be 
efl^Kted  by  exposing  food  to  the  fire  during  only  half  the  time  that  is  necessary. 

Then,  as  to  the  expense  of  superior  cookery,  M.  Soyer  has  taken  the  best  means  of 
refuting  the  error  by  showing  that  much  improvement  may  be  made  without  addition  to  tlie 
cost.  In  one  portion  of  his  book  he  provides  materials  for  the  dinner  of  an  emperor;  in  the 
other,  entitled,  "  My  Kitchen  at  Home,"  he  enables  the  smallest  private  family,  or  asen  the 
solitary  bachelor,  to  live  well  on  small  means. 


13 

It  wonld  be  incompatible  with  our  limlti  to  diMiiM  fully  the  two  systems  ot  the  antbor, 
and  to  abstain  from  any  illostratlon  of  them  woold  be  unjust  to  him  and  unsatisfactovy  to 
the  rviader.  We  will  therefore  give  one  example  of  each— the  magnificent  and  the  simple  $ 
and  the  first  shall  be  a  banquet  Mrved  at  the  Reform  Club,  on  the  9th  of  May  last  to  a 
private  party  of  ten  persons  (see  phge  600),  and  for  a  dinner  party  for  eight  persons,  at  home 
(see  page  696). 

Of  the  simple  arrangement  for  a  bachelor  or  a  married  coople,  combining,  as  they  do, 
elegance  with  economy,  we  cannot  give  a  selection  ;  because  we  would  not  offer  a  brick  as 
a  specimen  of  the  bouse ;  but  we  strongly  recommend  them  to  all  who  are  tired  of  conven- 
tional  dinners  composed  of  eferlasting  chops  and  steaks. 

In  short  the  work  of  M.  Soyer  is  one  that  cannot  fail  of  being  extensively  read.  If  it  be 
worth  while  to  spend  as  much  time  as  ereiybody  doe«>  in  eating,  it  is  surely  advlMble  to  see 
that  our  time  is  not  thrown  away — that  we  live  like  civilized  beings  rather  than  New 
Zealand  savages.  In  this  important  point  the  system  of  M.  Soyer  is  worthy  of  praise,  and 
we  feel  that  we  only  anticipate  our  readers  in  thanking  him  for  the  labour  he  has  bestowed 
in  elacidating  a  porsait  that,  in  despite  of  twaddle,  is  at  least  one  of  the  minor  amenities  of 
life. 


We  approach  with  all  due  reverence  and  respect  the  discussion  of  the  important  and  my»- 
terions  changes  eflected  by  the  chemical  action  of  that  most  potent  of  all  galvanic  agencies, 
whoee  resistless  infiuence  is  acknowledged  by  sages,  philosophers,  and  statesmen,  and  whose 
sympathetic  vibrations  finda  response  in  everybreast — ihebaiieriedeeumne.  *  TheGastronomic 
Regenerator  ;  a  New  System  of  Cookery.'    We  have  given  both  the  titles,  because  In  so 
deeply  Interesting  a  race,  all  parties  from  the  Royal  duke,  whose  gnrack>tts  condescension 
sanctions  the  dedication  in  the  title-page,  to  the  humble  artisan  who  sniffii  the  fragrant  per- 
fume as  he  passes  the  area  of  the  Reform  Club,  are  entitled  to  start  fair ;  and  to  the  unini- 
tiated the  pronomen  would  require  a  greater  amount  of  consideration  than  accords  with  good 
digestion.    For  ourselves,  we  can  only  say,  with  the  cockney  lady  in  the  play,  "  How 
delightfully  uninteliigiMe !  how  far-fe|cbed !  how  French!''  But  we  have  a  shrewd  guew 
that  the  impfacticable  title  was  designed,  like  some  of  his  tauccM  pi^utmtes,  as  a  eatmlJstic 
whet  or  provocative  to  the  teeming  fancies  and  gustatory  glories  of  the  Interior,  and  that 
pronounced  with  due  emphasis  aiid  discretion  before  a  meal,  it  would  **  create  an  appetite 
nnder  the  very  ribs  of  death.*'    The  importance  of  a  good  dinner  is  become  almost  an  axiom 
in  morals  and  phileeophy  :  with  ourselves  it  has  been  elevated  to  the  rank  of  an  article  of 
faith.    We  cannot,  therefore,  too  highly  appreciate  the  labours  of  dbtingaished  men  who, 
Hke  M.  Soyer,  sacrifice  themselves  to  a  sense  of  public  duly,  and  present  to  an  admiring  and 
hungry  world  those  treasures  of  gasironomie  which  are  the  very  triumph  of  artistic  skiU. 
The  ancient  proverb  has  it  that  **  any  one  can  dine,''  to  which  modern  political  economy  has 
added,  "  if  he  have  the  means,"— happily  for  the  present  generation  they  live  in  the  third 
era  of  progressive  advancement,  when  dining  hae  become  a  science,  and  the  good  things 
which  Proridenoe  has  abundantly  supplied  to  us  are  rendered  snbservient  at  once  to  health 
and  refined  enjoyment.    M.  Soyer  tells  ns  that  nothing  better  disposes  the  human  mfand  to 
amiable  feelings  than  a  dinner.  Ar'en  eon^  et  ariUtemeni  pripari.  How  deeply  gpratefnl,  then, 
should  our  countrymen  feel  who  make  dining  the  great  business  of  life,  and  with  whom  a 
dinner  forms  the  g^rand  rallying  point  for  every  striking  demonstration  of  pleasure,  or  business, 
or  friendship,  or  charity,  to  one  who  in  the  proud  humility  of  his  unrivalled  genius  is  content 
to  rank  a  good  cook  only  on  the  same  footing  as  a  wise  coansellcHr !    We  have  been  accus- 
tomed to  vaunt  of  our  liberty,  our  independence,  and  our  unbonnded  wealth,  but  to  our 
eternal  disgrace  be  it  recorded  that,  while  we  enjoy  the  fruits  of  their  lalxMiri,  we  are  silent 
on  the  subject  of  onr  obligations  to  the  accomplished  euisinier.    The  talent  and  researoh  ol 
a  Vatel,  a  Carftme,  and  a  Bechamel  have  done  much  to  place  ue  on  an  equality  with  our 
more  fastidious  and  artistic  neigbbonrs,  the  French— it  remained  for  a  Soyer  to  consummate 
the  good  work,  and  place  the  golden  atelette  upon  the  crou«tade  of  the  dindotmeau  d  la 
NeUon.    M.  Soyer  has  evidently  a  just  appreciation  of  the  dignity  of  the  science  of  which 
he  is  so  distinguished  a  professor ;  with  a  mind  comprehensive  enough  to  grasp  all  the  most 
intricate  and  diificnlt  combinations  of  the  culinary  art,  he  is  above  the  littleness  of  discarding 
bis  guests  benuse  they  may  add  salt  to  their  soup,  contenting  himself  with  the  sage  maxim 
that "  it  is  the  duty  of  the  cook  to  season  for  the  guests,  and  not  the  gneets  for  tihe  cook-'* 
And  verily,  if  all  our  cooks  were  such  **  top''  Soyers,  it  would  be  downright  heresy  to  '*  paint 
the  lily  or  add  a  perfume  to  the  violet."  Since  we  read  the  work  we  have  been  tempted  more 
than  once  to  renounce  our  honest  convictions,  and  sell  our  party  for  a  mess  of  potag9^^  &  la 
Julienne,    We  had  no  idea  that  so  much  good  could  emanate  from  the  Reform  Club,  and 
liveii  in  the  belief  that  their  dinners  were  as  dull  as  their  dogmas,  and  Wi^ii  pdtiM  as  indif* 


14 

ferent  m  their  prlnciplM.  Bat  political  diacnflsions  aw  inieidicted  over  tbe  dinner  tMe,  ^ 
with  M.  Soyer  as  caterer  we  honestly  confess  that  we  coald  dine  in  all  love  and  amitj  miHk 
a  Radical  or  a  Repealer,  and  get «  jolly^  with  a  Chartist  or  an  Owenlte.  We  sfaall  eolartaio 
a  better  opinion  all  our  lifes  of  a  pariy  so  well  served  in  tiie  coUnary  departoaeoU  Oar 
readers  will  be  natnmUy  anxioos  to  learn  tbe  moving  cause  of  tbe  thousand  gastronoinic 
reflections  that  crowd  the  volame—what  powerfal  agency  impelled  him  toi  adire  iaSarem  ; 
and  but  for  the  habit  of  discuraiTenesH  which  has  marred  our  fortunes  to  the  piMeat  hamr 
we  shonkl  have  given  it  the  prominence  it  deservedly  obtains  in  tbe  preface.  Honour  then  Us 
whom  honour  is  dne,~-'plaee  aus  dame9—ii  is  "  at  tbe  request  of  several  persons  of  dktinctioa, 
particularly  the  ladies,  to  whom  I  have  always  made  it  a  rule  never  to  idfuse  anything  in  bbw 
power."  Never  was  there  so  touching  a  tribute  of  homage ;  never  was  the  proveitial  gaW> 
lantry  of  his  countrymen  so  iitrikingly  or  so  gracefttUy  exemplified.  But  we  hake  all  iUm 
'time  withheld  our  readers  from  a  peep  into  tbe  interior,  and  liere  our  diiBcnlties  bqrlA-  We 
have  rambled  through  the  greater  portion  of  the  700  or  800  pages  of  the  book,  and  tad  eveiy 
recipe  an  epic,  every  dish  a  picture,  and  every  saoce  a  study.  We  are  perplezad  betweea  the 
glorifw  of  the  diner  Lucuiltuiem,  the  most  reekerchi  dinner  eyer  dreased,  the  9agodai»fme 
enirie,  ihegtUeau  Britannique  a  i*amiral,  theortolaned  truffles  which  Sover  devised,  hot  the 
fates  forbid,  and  tbe  more  unpretending  but  not  leas  valuable  details  of  *'  My  KitcbsD  at 
Home,"  redolent  of  savoury  and  appetitizing  streamn,  which'  are  within  the  mcfa  of  tke 
middle  and  humbler  classes.  All  are  exquisite  in  their  way ;  and  had  the  Abyssinian  priiiee^ 
who  roamed  over  half  the  globe  In  search  of  happiness*  but  lighted  on  this  vohmie  be  would 
have  Bat  down  contentedly,  ordered  a  new  dish  for  every  day  in  tbe  year,  and  abandoned  all 
thought  of  returning  to  the  happy  valley.  Mais  revenon*  d  not  nunUonSy  the  approach  to 
which  is  stopped  by  tbe  cheveus  de  frite  of  a  carving-knife  and  fork.  Now  carving,  beln^, 
tbe  coup  de  grAce  to  cookery,  rather  unaccountably,  but  probably  artistically,  occupies  tbe 
first  cbapter ;  «nd  our  author,  after  referring  to  the  tribulation  of  carving  "  for  appetitie 
more  or  less  colossal,  and  when  all  eyes  are  fixed  upon  you  with  anxious  avidity,"  opeoa  his 
Instructions  with  the  following  curious  historic  anecdote  (see  p.  xli). 

And  then  follow  some  very  sage  reflections  uiion  the  necessity  of  dining  **  more  or  less  o 
a  day,"  and  a  pathetic  appeal  to  the  "  manglers*'  not  to  tear  to  atoms  the  remains  of 
benefactors ;  and  with  this  flourish  of  the  knife  enter  "  directions  for  carving,**  which 
extremely  brief  and  simple,  and  which  are  wound  up  with  the  hint*  seidom  attended  to  by 
even  experienced  carvers,  that  nothing  is  more  creditable  to  a  carver  tlian  leaving  a  piece  of 
meef,  game,  or  poultry  fit  to  reappear  at  table  in  an  inviting  state. 

One  extract  more,  and  we  shall  terminate  our  pleasing  Ubours,  premising  that  our  aelecUoe 
hart  been  made  more  with  a  view  to  novelty  than  from  any  want  of  more  reehercki  and  atlne- 
tive  materials.    Th»f airfare  is  with  reference  to  the  French  pot-awfeu  (see  p.  640). 

But  here  we  must  pause,  for  we  are  almost  cloyed  with  sweets  and  dainties.  With  tiie 
best  appetite  and  inclination  in  the  world,  we  are  reluctantly  compelled  to  subaciibe  to  oor 
artist's  doctrine,  that  a  man  cnn  dine  but  once  a  day,  and  our  literary  banqnet  has  been 
already  a  most  seductive  and  profuse  one.  We  purposed  giving  the  recipe  of  the  fiar-faosed 
pot-au-feu,  but  we  presume  it  is  already,  or  shortly  will  be,  in  the  handa  ot  all  the  world, 
and  if  any  of  our  readers  have  not  yet  made  up  their  minds,  we  advise  them  to  send  wiUiont 
loss  of  time  to  Simpkin,  Marshall,  and  Co. 


TRB  XOBJm'O  ABVBIL' 

"  The  fame  of  the  Reform  Club  and  its  matchless  cuisine,  under  the  direction  of  that 
great  master  of  his  art,  Alexis  Soyer,  have  gone  to  the  uttermost  ends  of  the  earth.  To 
render  that  fame  imperishable,  Soyer  has  composed  his  *  Gastronomic  Regenerator,'  a  work 
which  is  destined  to  throw  all  others,  from  the  time-honoured  Mrs.  Glass  to  the  leaned 
Eustache  Ude,  into  the  shade.  Tbe  former,  most  loveable  in  her  way,  will  henceforth  only 
be  remembered  for  her  one  receipt,  "  first  catch  your  hare,"  &c. ;  the  piquancy,  the  utile  et 
dulce  characteristics  of  Soyer,  like  one  of  his  own  chyle-begetting  and  renowned  sauces, 
entirely  neutralises,  absorbs,  swallows  up  the  greatest  effort  of  Ude.  Tempus  edaxrerum! 
Soyer  is  a  wit  and  a  wag  of  the  first  water  f  hence  a  perusal  of  the  introduction  to  the 
goodly  volume  before  us  acts  as  a  wbet.  "  Laugh  and  grow  fat'*  is  an  old  and  a  true  adage; 
readSoyer's  introduction,  and  the  veriest  valetudinarian  will  afterwards  sit  down  and  eat  like 
a  man  !  Soyer's  experience  has  been  vast — magniji^e  !  hear,  on  the  important  liead,  what 
he  tells  his  readers:— *<  During  the  last  ten  months  I  had  to  furnish  25,000  dinners  for  the 
gentlemen  of  tbe  Reform  Club,  sod  38  dinner  parties  of  importance,  comprising  above  TO.OOO 
dishes,  and  to  provide  daily  for  60  servants  of  the  establishment,  independent  of  about  15,000 
visitors  who  have  seen  tbe  kitcben  department  in  that  lapse  of  time.''  Authors  frequently 
assign  a  reason  for  writing ;    Soyer,  in  this  respect,  is  not  behindhand  ;  in  his  pietace  he 


15 

amy ;— ''  At  the  reqaett  of  teferal  penons  of  dlstiBctioii  who  have  triflited  fbe  Reform  Club, 
particalarly  ladies,  to  whom  I  hafe  always  made  it  a  rale  never  to  refuse  anything  in  my 
power,  for,  indeed,  it  must  have  been  the  fair  sex  who  have  had  the  majority  in  this  domestic 
augument  to  gain  this  gastronomical  electioiil    Why  do  yon  not  write  and  publish  a  cookery* 
Isook  ?  was  a  question  contlDnally  pat  to  me.     For  a  considerable  time  this  scientific  word 
caused  a  thrill  of  horror  to  pervade  my  frame»  and  brought  back  to  my  mind  that  one  day, 
being  4n  a  most  superb  library  in  the  midst  of  a  splendid  baronial  hall,  by  chance  I  met  with 
one  of  Miltoifs  allegorical  works,  the  profound  ideas  of  Locke,  and  several  ehe/s  d*xuvre 
of  one  of  the  noblest  champions  of  literature,  Shakspears ;  when  all  at  once  my  attention 
-was  attracted  by  the  nineteenth  edition  of  a  voluminous  work.    Such  an  immense  success 
of  publication  caused  me  to  say,  <  Oh,  you  celebrated  man,  posterity  counts  every  hour  of 
fame  upon  your  regretted  ashes !'    Opening  this  work  with  intense  curiosity,  to  my  great 
disappointment,  what  did  I  see, — a  receipt  for  Oxtail  Soup !    The  terrifying  effect  produced 
upon  me  by  this  succulent  volume,  made  me  determine  that  my  few  ideas,  whether  culinary 
or  domestic,  shookl  never  encumber  a  sanctuary  which  should  be  entirely  devoted  to  works 
worthy  of  a  place  in  the  Temple  of  the  Muses."  That  section  of  the  work  entitled  **  Soyer's 
new  mode  of  carving"  (^worthy  of  the  deepest  attention^  is  thus  ushered  in  : — *'  You  are  all 
aware,  honorable  readers,  of  the  continual  tribulation  in  carving  at  table,  for  appetites 
more  or  less  colossal,  and  when  all  eyes  are  fixed  npon  you  with  anxious  avidity.    Very  few 
persons  are  perfect  in  this  art,  which  requires  not  only  grace,  but  a  great  deal  of  skill. 
Others  become  very  nervous  ;  many  complain  of  the  knife  which  has  not  5ie  least  objection 
to  be  foiud  fault  with ;  or  else  they  say,  this  capon,  pheasant,  or  poulard  is  not  young,  and 
consequently  not  of  the  best  quality.    You  may  sometimes  be  right,  but  It  certainly  often 
happens  that  the  greatest  gawrmand  is  the  worst  carver,  and  complains  sadly  during  that 
very  long  process,  saying  to  himself  *<  I  am  last  to  be  served,  my  dinner  will  be  cold." 
Soyer's  motto  is,  *' cleanliness  is  the  soul  of  the  kitchen ;"  the  emtine  of  the  Reform  Club 
le  a  perfect  embodiment  of  this  healthful  axiom.    That  portion  of  the  work  before  us  devoted 
to  "  The  Kitchen  at  Home,"  deserves  the  attentive  perasal  of  eveiy  housewife  who  wishes 
to  enjoy  comfort  herself  and  be  the  cause  of  it  to  others ;  the  author  is  almost  as  earnest 
and  enthusiastic  in  his  directions  for  the  production  of  a  good  rump-steak  pudding  for  the 
stomach  of  common  life  as  he  is  for  that  of  the  most  aristocratic  and  indulged.    The 
work  is,  in  short,  one  suited  to  the  palace  of  the  prince,  and  the  cottage  of  the  peasant.    The 
two  thousand  practical  receipts  it  contains,  adapted  to  the  incomes  of  all  parties,  have  been 
eaten  by  a  <<  committee  of  taste,''  who  have  pronounced  a  verdict  in  their  favour.   It  is  appro* 
priately  dedicated  to  his  Royal  Highness  the  Duke  of  Cambridge,  and  the  volume  is  rendered 
more  valuable  by  ita  numerous  well-executed  illustrations.    The  frontispiece  is  a  fine  por- 
trait of  the  author,  after  a  painting  by  the  once-accomplished  and  now  lamented  Madame 
Soy«r.  It  is  a  meet  truthful  portrait ;  each  feature  indicates  the  man — ^the  play  of  the  eloquent 
Up  is  there,  at  once  the  portal  of  wit  and  the  minister  of  intense  palatlc  sensibility.    Vive  le 
J 


TBS  a&o; 


The  impression  grows  on  us  that  the  man  of  his  age  is  neither  Sir  Robert  Peel,  nor 
Lord  John  Russell,  nor  even  Ibrahim  Pacha,  but  Alexis  Soyer. 

Haxlitt  has  said  that,  if  literary  men  directed  the  world,  they  would  leave  nothing 
standing  but  printing  presses.  We  know  that  parliamentary  leaders  Imagine  parliamentary 
tactics,  and  talk  the  primum  mobiU  of  mankind.  Eastern  despots  think  it  is  the  sword  ; 
but  Alexis  Soyer  knows  it  is  the  saucepan.  When  Napoleon  first  started  the  distinction 
of  the  **  Legion  of  Hoiwor,"  Morean  ridiculed  it  by  proposingto  confer  a  casserole  iChonneur 
on  his  cook.  But  we  beg  to  propose  some  «  Soyer  testimonial,"  without  any  joke  at  all. 
Have  we  not  had  a  "  Hudson  testimonial  7" — are  we  not  threatened  with  a  «  Lambert 
Jones  testimonial  V* — ^to  recompense,  amongst  other  things,  the  laying  that  heavy  load  upon 
mother  earth,  called  the  Royal  Exchange.  What  then  shall  be  done  unto  the  man  who 
reared  that  light  fabric  of  a  Pyramid  h  F Ibrahim  Pacha,  on  which  twenty  centuries  doubt- 
loHs  looked  down  last  Fridaj  evening,  as  they  had  very  good  reason  to  do, — since  they  might 
have  seen  Pyramids  any  day  these  two  or  three  thousand  years,  but  it  is  not  every  day  they 
could  see  a  Pyramid  with  "  an  elegant  cream  d  fananae*'  on  the  top  of  it,  and  on  the  top 
of  that  again  "a  highly-finished  portrait  of  the  illustrious  stranger  (Ibrahim  Pacha's) 
father,  Mehemet  All,  carefully  drawn  on  a  round  shape  of  satin  carton** 

The  veracious  chronicler  to  whom  we  are  now  indebted  for  some  particulars,  which  the 
world  would  not  willingly  let  die,  of  that  dinner  at  the  Reform  Club  which  has  frighted 
■ome  of  our  Paris  contemporaries  from  their  propriety,  proceeds  as  follows : 

''The  appearance  of  this*Crftme  d'Bgypte  i  I'Ibrahim  Pacha'  immediately  caught  his 
Royal  Highness's  attention,  who  at  once  perceived  the  honour  conferred  upon  him.    He 

48 


16 

carefully  took  olF  the  portrait  en  earton  io  hia  bands  to  admire  It ;  and  after  dunring  It  to 
several  of  his  suite,  be  affiwtionately  placed  it  in  his  Ikmodb  near  his  heart,  with  the  iiileB- 
tion  of  never  parting  with  it  again.  But  what  was  his  astonishment,  on  looking  at  the  spot 
where  the  former  portrait  had  been  deposited,  at  seeing  in  the  cream,  as  onder  a  g^lass,  the 
portrait  of  himself,  as  highly  finished,  and  as  striking  a  likeness  as  any  miniataie  paiAter 
coald  have  produced,  and  surrounded  by  a  gilt-like  frame !  Monsieur  Soyer,  baring^  been 
sent  for  by  the  party,  was  highly  complimented  by  his  Highness  through  his  interpreter, 
who  desired  to  know  where  and  bow  he  could  procure  such  a  likeness  of  his  father,  and 
how  was  his  own  so  correctly  drawn  in  the  cream?  < Please  tell  bis  Higbneea,*  said 
Monsieur  Soyer  to  the  interpreter, '  that  both  were  executed  from  the  origiaal  sketches 
drawn  by  our  celebrated  artist  Horace  Vemet,  whilst  in  Alexandria.  The  portrait  in  the 
cream  is  drawn  on  wafer-paper,  which,  placed  on  the  damp  jelly,  representing  the  glass, 
dissolves,  and  nothing  remains  but  the  appearance  of  the  portrait  drawn  in  light  water- 
colours.  Tbe  imitation  of  the  gilt  frame  is  made  with  eau  de  vie  of  Dantzic,  and  gold 
water  mixed  with  jelly,  tbe  gold  leaf  of  which  forms  the  frame.  After  having  been  thanked 
}ay  tbe  Pacha,  the  p>Tamidal  cream  of  Egypt  was  ordered  to  be  shown  to  each  gimst,  by 
sliding  it  from  one  to  the  other  round  tbe  table  (which  was  more  than  S60  feet)»  to  the 
great  satisfaction  and  admiration  of  every  one  present.  Though  everything  was  eatable  in 
it,  this  magnificent  dish  was  respected,  and  remained  untouched,  but  every  one  tried  to 
partake  of  Uie  fruit  which  surrounded  this  extraordinary  and  appropriate  culinary  wonder." 

Tbe  above  is  given  chiefly  for  the  benefit  of  our  Paris  contemporaries,  who  do  na  the 
honour  to  mention  that "  £b  Globe  nous  fait  eonnaitre  les  ^trmigee  dieetmn  qu'Hs  9mi,  ftm 
et  Vauire  (Lord  Palmerston  and  Sir  C.  Napier),  wcf^^s^  eette  occarimU*  Waivii^  tiM 
question  whether  there  was  anything  <<  strange"  in  either  speech  we  beg  our  Paris  oei»- 
temporaries  to  observe  that  their  compatriot.  Monsieur  Soyer  had  eilected  a  most  akHfal 
diversion  from  all  delicate  topics  whatsoever. 

"  SegnituB  irritant  animos  demissa  per  aures 
Quam  qus  sunt  ocnlis  sobjecta  fidelibns.'* 

Ibrahim  Pacha's  interpreter,  it  now  appears,  had  other  things  to  do  than  to  intecpret 
either  political  retrospects  or  prospect^,  as  touched  by  tbe  several  speakers.  And  surely  it 
might  soften  the  hearts  of  our  jealous  friends  about  tbe  Palais  Royal,  to  see  how  large  a 
part  of  the  triumph  of  the  day  was,  in  fact,  a  French  triumph.  Would  we  could  stop  here ! 
But  truth  compels  us  to  say  that  our  ally.  Monsieur  Soyer,  forces  us,  io  the  sequel,  to  feel 
strange  doubts  of  his  thorough  devotion  to  English  interests. 

<*The  next  dish  which  much  amused  his  Highness  vras  the  one  entitled  tiie  Geieam 
Britanniqtie  d  l^Amiral,  being  tbe  representation  of  an  old  man-of-war,  bearing  tlM  English 
and  Egyptian  flag  drawn  on  rice-paper,  the  ship  being  filled  with  ice  Motfsaeuse  auxp^ekee^ 
and  loaded  with  large  strawberries,  cherries,  grapes,  aod  bunches  of  currants,  being  so  placed 
on  tbe  table  that  tbe  brave  and  gallant  Commodore  Napier  had  to  help  from  this  cargo  the 
illustrious  stranger,  who  did  not  cease  smiling.  During  that  process  the  moisture  and 
liquor  of  the  ice,  which  gradually  melted,  saturated  the  hull  of  the  vessel,  which  was  made 
ofa  kind  of  delicate  sponge  calce.  Whilst  the  g^ant  commodore  was  in  the  act  of  helping 
the  remains  of  tbe  ice,  the  ship  gave  way,  and  formed  a  complete  wreck,  which  caused  great 
hilarity  among  tbe  company  who  were  close  enough  to  witness  the  !»cene." 

The  above  might  form  a  most  fertile  text  for  sinister  inferences,  if  we  possessed  fbe 
talent  in  that  line  of  some  of  our  Paris  contemporaries.  We  content  ourselves  with  ex- 
presalng  our  satisfaction  that  Monsieur  Soyer  never  has  been,  and  we  hope  never  vrill  be, 
intrust^  with  the  charge  of  Surveyor  of  the  Navy,  in  addition  to  that  of  Chef  de  Cuisine  at 
the  Reform  Club.  We  have  no  objection  to  bis  building  gateaux  Britmmifuee,  which 
<<  give  way*'  in  the  heat  of  action  ;  but  we  desire  to  see  no  bnoche4iihie  contriving  in  the 
Mediterranean. 


Who  has  not  beard  of  the  euitine  of  the  Reform  Clob  ?  Who  has  not  heard  of  its  ektf, 
Alexis  Soyer,  and  his  tfmffiet  monstre  d  la  Clontarf,  and  his  crSme  de  VE^g^pte  d  PliraJkim 
Pacha  T  Well,  here  we  have  the  mighty  gastronomic  magician  coming  forward,  in  proprid 
personay  and  informing  us  of  tbe  methods  be  employs  to  produce  those  results  which  astonish 
and  delight  the  world.  If  we  mistake  not,  this  book  of  M.  Soyer's  is  destined  to  produce  a 
revolution  in  the  kitchens  of  Enghind,  and  to  substitute  for  tbe  fat,  greasy,  unscientific  school 
of  cookery  the  science  of  gastronomy,  a  science  which  teaches  the  art  of  extracting  from 
food,  animal  and  vegetable,  the  nutritious  portions  in  such  a  manner  as  to  please  the  eye 
and  the  taste,  while  at  the  same  time  the  material  is  economised  to  the  utmost  The  fol- 
lowing passage  shows  that  M.  Soyer  has  hadconaiderable  experience  on  the  sobject  of  which 
he  treats: 


17 

«  Daring  the  latt  ten  months,  T  had  to  furnish  25,000  dinaers  for  the  gentlemen  of  the 
Reform  Cluh,  and  38  dinner  parties  of  importance,  comprising  above  70,000  dUbes,  and  to 
provide  daily  for  60  servants  of  the  establirthment,  independent  of  about  15,000  visitors 
who  have  seen  the  kitchen  department  in  that  lapse  of  time." 

The  result  of  that  experience  we  have  in  this  volume.  He  gives  us  bills  of  fare  for  parties 
of  all  sizes,  from  a  coronation  banquet  to  a  bachelor's  snug  party  in  chambers.  He  also 
gives  us  plans  of  kitchens  of  all  sizes,  from  the  magnificent  gastronomical  laboratory  of  the 
Reform  Club  to  my  ''  Kitchen  at  Home,"  which  is  suited  to  the  means  and  requirements  of 
the  solitary  bachelor.  Let  all  those  who  are  tired  of  the  eternal  roast  and  boiled,  alter- 
nating with  chop  and  steak — who  think  that  mutton  broth  is  (not  the  only  potage  in  the 
world — that  there  are  methods  of  dressing  fish  other  than  plain  boiling  and  ujing,  and  other 
Mtuces  than  melted  butter — purchase  M.  Soyer's  book.  They  will  find  that  it  is  indeed  that 
which  it  professes  itself  to  he — a  Gastronomic  Regenerator. 


Cookery  and  Civiliz€ttion,  It  is  only  after  passing  through  an  ordeal  cruelly  insidious, 
tolerably  severe,  and  rather  protracted,  that  we  feel  conscientiously  entitled  to  assert  our 
ability  to  dine  every  day  of  every  week  at  the  Reform  Club,  without  jeopardy  to  those  im- 
mutable principles  which  are  incorruptible  by  Whigs  and  indestructible  by  Rats.  A  sneer, 
perhaps,  is  curling  with  ''beautiful  disdain"  the  lips  of  some  Conservative  Achilles.  Let  us 
nip  his  complacent  sense  of  invulnerability  in  the  bud.  I'o  eat  and  to  err  are  equally  attri- 
butes of  humanity.  Looking  at  ourselves  in  the  mirror  of  honest  criticism,  we  behold 
features  as  unchangeable  as  sublunary  vicissitudes  will  allow. 

«  Time  writes  no  wrinkles  on  oar  aznre  brow." 

Witness  it !  ye  many  years  of  wondrous  alternation — of  lurid  tempest  and  sunny  calm— of 
disastrous  rout  and  triumphant  procession— of  shouting  paean  and  wailing  dirge — witness  the 
imperturbable  tenor  of  our  way !  Attest  it,  thou  goodly  array  of  the  tomes  of  Maga,  laden 
and  sparkling,  now  as  ever,  with  wisdom  and  wit,  science  and  fancy !— attest  the  unwavering 
fidelity  of  our  career !  All  this  is  very  true ;  but  the  secret  annals  of  the  good  can  never 
be  free  from  temptations,  and  never  are  in  reality  unblotted  by  peccadilloes.  The  fury  of  the 
demagogue  has  been  our  laughing-stock — ^the  versatility  of  trimming  politicians,  our  scorn. 
We  have  crouched  before  none  of  the  powers  which  have  been,  or  be;  neither  have  we 
been  carried  off  our  feet  by  the  whirlwinds  of  popular  passion.  Yet  it  is  difficult  to  resist 
a  good  dinner.  The  victories  of  Miltiades  robbed  Themistocles  of  sleep.  The  triumphs  of 
Soyer  are  apt  to  affect  us,  "  with  a  difference,"  after  the  same  fashion. 

There  was,  we  remember,  a  spirit  of  surly  independence  within  us  on  visiting,  for  the 
first  time,  the  **  high  capital"  of  Whiggery,  where  the  Tail  at  present, 

**  New  mbb'd  with  balm,  expatiate  and  confer 
Their  state  affairs." 

To  admire  anything  was  not  our  mood : 

**  The  ascending  pile 
Stood  fix'd  her  stately  beighth ;  and  straight  the  doors, 
Opening  their  bracen  folds,  4iscover,  wide  * 

Within,  her  ample  spaces,  o'er  the  smooth 
And  level  pawment" 

And  as  these  lines  suggested  themselves,  we  recollected  who  the  first  Whig  is  said  to  have 
been,  and  whose  architectural  glories  Milton  was  recording.  We  never  yet  heard  a  Radical 
disparage  a  peer  of  the  realm  without  being  convinced,  that  deep  in  the  pocket,  next  his 
heart,  lay  an  incautious  hospitable  invitation  from  the  noble  lord,  to  which  a  precipitate 
answer  in  the  affirmative  had  already  been  dispatched.  Analogously,  in  the  magnificent 
edifice,  whose  tesseiated  floor  we  were  treading  gingerly,  it  seemed  to  us  that  we  surveyed 
an  unmistakable  monument  of  an  innate  predilection  for  the  splendours  and  comforts,  the 
pomp  and  the  abandon,  of  a  "  proud  aristocracy."  This  was  before  dinner,  and  we  were 
hungry.  To  tell  all  that  happened  to  us  for  some  hours  afterwards,  would,  in  fact,  force  us 
to  transfer  to  our  pages  more  than  half  of  the  volume  which  is  prompting  these  observations. 
Suffice  it  to  say,  that  when  we  again  stood  on  PalUMall,  a  bland  philanthropy  of  sentiment, 
embracing  all  races,  and  classes,  and  sects  of  men,  permeated  our  bosom.  Whence  came 
the  mellowing  iufluence,  seeing  that  we  had  been,  as  our  custom  is,  very  innocent  of  wine  ? 
Nor  could  it  be  the  seductive  eloquence  of  the  company.  We  had,  indeed,  been  roundly 
vituperated  in  argument  by  the  Liberator.  Oh,  yes !  but  we  had  been  fed  by  the  Regenerator. 
To  ns,  then,  on  these  things  much  meditating — so  Cicero  and  Brougham  love  to  write— 


18 

•r  the  ipMoliAkMis  la  wbieh  wv  ted  hidiilged,  and  of  the  piioelplM  whlcb  ve  had 
adfocatad,  ware  obfloaily  not  quite  in  hamiony  with  the  vlewi  long  Incnlcatad  h^  iia  an  a 
dodia  pnblie.    Suddenly  the  truth  flaahad  acro«  and  lUominatad  tha  perplexltj  of  our  pan- 
derings.   Wa  ware  aware  that,  aarij  in  tha  evaninn^,  a  moch  milder  oenaora  than  luoal 
upon  aome  facttoni  Ubaral  mancaaTre  had  puMd  oar  Upii.    Thia  took  piaoa  jnat  ahoat  the 
fonrth  ppoonfol  of  lonp.    The  tpaUi  ware  already  in  operatloa  under  the  shape  of  **  jiinliij^ 
a  Is  Maremt  HiU,**    There  is  a  fascination  e?en  in  the  name  of  this  **  deliciooa  soiy**— 
such  is  the  epithet  of  Soyar — which  ooi  readers  will  lietter  understand  in  the  aeqo^    Again 
tt  was  impossible  to  deny  that  wa  had  hasarded  sefeial  equivocal  obsenations  in  refaicnca 
to  tha  Pahnerstonlan  policy  in  Syria.    But  it  was  equally  true  that  audi  inadvertencies 
slipped  from  ns  while  laboriouily  engi^[^  in  determining  a  delicate  competition  lietareeo 
*<  John  Dvrie  d  POrUammai§e'*  and  '<  «ainnen  a  la  Beyrout,"    A  tnnsient  compliment  to 
tlie  influence  at  elections  of  tbe  famous  Duchess  of  Devonshire  was  little  liable  to  objeetioov 
we  imagined,  during  a  playful  examination  of  a  few  *'  aiguiUettes  devokdOe  k  laJotieJiUe.** 
More  questionable,  it  must  be  admitted,  were  certain  assertions  regarding  tbe  Five  Points, 
enunciated  hastily  over  a  "  nerA  o/mutitm  a  la  Ckarie.**    No  fault,  however,  liad  we  to  find 
with  the)  utttng  facetioosness  with  which  we  had  g^amisbed  ''eoidetiet  d*apuam  a  im 
ri/ifrme  en  twrprUe  aux  cAampignons,*'     Tbe  title  of  this  dish  was  so  ludicrouafy  applicabia 
to  tlie  consternation  of  tbe  remnants  of  tbe  Melbourne  ministiy — the  cutlets  of  lamb — in 
finding  themselves  outran  in  tbe  race  by  mushroom  free-traderB,  that  our  pleasantly  theve- 
anent  was  irresistible.     It  was  dlfflcnlt,  at  the  same  time,  to  joatify  the  expression  of  an 
opinion,  infinitely  too  favorable  to  Peel's  commercial  policy,  yielding  to  tbe  allnremenia  of 
a  *'  twritm  des  eaiilet  d  Im  /inaneiere."    And,  on  the  whole,  we  smarted  beneath  a  con- 
sciousness that  all  our  conreisation  had  been  perceptibly  flavoured  by  **JUeia  de  SfeasaeM 
d  la  Talieyrand.** 

Tbe  result  of  these  reflections  was,  simply,  an  alarming  oonriction  of  the  tremendous 
influence  exercised  by  Soyer  throughout  all  the  woricingi  of  the  British  constitution.  The 
causes  of  the  success  of  tiie  League  begin  to  dawn  upon  us,  while  our  gravest  suspicions 
are  confirmed  by  the  appearance,  at  this  peculiar  crisis,  of  '  The  Gastronomic  Regeneiator.' 
What  patriotism  can  withstand  a  superabundance  of  untaxed  food,  ooolced  accordini^  to  tha 
tuition  of  Soyer  ?  How  can  public  rirtue  keep  its  ground  againat  soch  a  rush  of  the  nw 
material,  covered  by  such  a  *'  btUterie  de  emsme  f**  Cobden  and  Soyer,  in  alliance,  ham 
giren  a  new  turn,  and  terribly  literal  power,  to  the  fable  of  Menenins  Agrippa. 

"  There  was  a  time  when  all  the  body's  members 
RebeU'd  against  tbe  beUy." 

Such  times  are  gone.    The  belly  now  has  it  all  its  own  way,  while 

**  Tbe  kingly-crowned  bead,  tbe  vigilant  eye. 
The  counsellor  beari,  tbe  arm  our  soldier. 
Our  steed  the  teg,  the  tongue  our  trampeter," 

are  conjunctly  and  severally  cuilM  or  bunged  up,  or  broken,  or  stifled,  mien  they  are 
perpetually  ministering  to  this  serrice  of  tbe  great  cormorant  corporation.  It  is  mighty  weB 
to  talk  of  tbe  dissolution  of  tbe  League.  Tbe  testament  of  Caesar,  commented  on  by  Mark 
Antony,  vras  eventually  more  fatal  to  tbe  liberties  of  Rome,  than  the  irrepressibte  ambitioa 
which  originally  urged  the  arch-traitor  across  the  Rubicon.  <  Tbe  Gastronomic  Regene- 
rator,* in  tbe  bands  of  erery  housewife  In  tbe  country,  is  merely  to  convert  the  most 
inrincible  portion  of  tbe  community  into  a  perpetual  militia  of  free-traders.  All  cooks 
proverbially  encourage  an  enormous  consumption  of  victuals.  The  stndy  of  Soyer  will 
infallibly  transform  three  fourths  of  the  empire  into  cooks.  Consequently,  the  demand  for 
every  variety  of  snstenance,  by  an  immense  majority  of  tbe  nation,  will  be  exorbitant  and 
perennial.  No  syllogism  can  be  more  unassailable.  We  venture  also  to  affirm  that  tbe 
judgment  of  posterity  will  be  rigidly  true  in  apportioning  tbe  endurance  of  fame  which  the 
conflicting  merits  of  onr  great  benefactors  may  deserve.  It  is  far  from  unlikely  that  tbe 
glories  of  a  Peel  may  be  disregarded,  forgotten,  and  unsung,  when  the  trophies  of  a  Soyer, 
still  odorous,  and  unctuous,  and  fresh,  shall  be  in  everybody's  mouth. 

Tbe  *  Gastronomic  Regenerator*  has  not  assumed  bis  imposing  title  without  a  full 
appreciation  of  tbe  dignity  of  his  office,  and  the  elevation  of  his  mission.  The  brief  and 
gracefol  «  dialogue  culinaire''  between  Lord  M.  H.  and  himself,  illustrates  tbe  grand 
doctrines  that  man  is  a  cooking  animal,  and  that  the  progress  of  cooking  is  the  progress 
of  cirilizatlon.  There  is  something  prodigiously  sublime  in  the  words  of  the  noble  inter- 
locator,  when  he  declares,  •'  Read  history,  and  you  see  that  in  every  age,  and  among  aU 
nations,  the  good  which  has  been  done,  and  sometimes  the  evil,  has  been  always  preceded 
or  followed  by  a  copious  dinner.''  This  language,  we  presume,  must  be  considered,  on  the 
great  scale,  as  applicable  to  tbe  most  solemn  and  momentous  occurrences  in  tbe  history  of 
governments  and  countries.    Not  that  we  can  exclude  it  from  individual  biography.    Bene- 


19 

Tolence  we  bawe  ahrayt  regarded  as  a  good  saaee,  and  have  often  obgerved  ft  to  be  an 
ezoeUent  deawrt.    The  man  who  tocks  bis  napkin  under  bis  cbin  immediately  after  con« 
ferring  a  beneflt  on  a  fsUow-creatnrey  inrariably  manifests  marvellons  capabilities  for  di* 
gostion ;  and,  on  the  other  band,  the  man  who  has  dined  to  his  own  entire  satisfaction,  if 
aoUcited  in  the  nick  of  time,  will  freqaently  erince  an  open-handed  generositj,  to  which  hie 
more  matatine  emotions  would  bare  been  strangers.    But— to  reverse  the  picture — any 
interruption  to  the  near  prospect  of  a  **  copious  dinner^  is  at  all  times  inimical  to  charity ; 
while  repletion,  we  know,  occasionally  reveals  such  unamiable  dispositions  as  could  not  have 
lieen  detected  by  the  most  jealous  scrutiny  at  an  earlier  period  of  the  day*    Nations  are  but 
taives  of  individuals.    We  understand,  therefore,  the  noble  lord  to  mean,  that  all  the  history 
of  all  the  thousand  races  of  the  globe  concurrently  teaches  us  that  every  great  event,  social 
or  political,  domestic  or  foreign,  involving  their  national  weal  or  woe,  has  heen  harbingered 
or  commemorated  by  a  "  copious  dinner."    Many  familiar  instances  of  this  profound  truth — 
some  of  very  recent  date^crowd  into  our  recollection.    But  we  cannot  help  suspecting  a 
deeper  meaning  to  be  inherent  In  the  enunciation  of  this  <^  great  fact."    Copious  dinners  are, 
as  it  strikes  us,  here  covertly  represent^  as  the  means  of  effecting  the  most  extensive 
ameliorations.    To  dine  is  insinuated  to  be  the  first  step  on  the  highway  to  improvement. 
In  the  consequences  which  flow  from  dining  copiously,  what  is  beneficial  is  evidently  stafed 
to  preponderate  over  what  is  hurtful,  the  qualifying  '<  sometimes''  being  only  attached  to 
the  latter.    In  this  respect,  dinnera  seem  to  diJier  from  men,  that  the  evil  is  more  freqnentiy 
^  interred  with  their  bones,"  while  the  "  good  they  do  lives  after  them."    This  is,  assuredly 
ringing  a  dinner-^bell  incessantiy  to  the  whole  universe.    We  have  ourselves,  not  half  an 
hour  ago,  paid  our  quota  for  participating  within  the  last  week  in  congratuhitory  festivities 
to  two  eminent  public  characters.    The  overwhebning  recurrence,  in  truth,  of  these  enter- 
tainments, drains  us  annually  of  a  handsome  income ;  and,  reading  as  we  do  daily  in  the 
newspapers,  bow  eveiy  grocer,  on  changing  his  shop  ronnd  the  corner,  and  every  professor 
of  dancing,  on  being  driven  by  tbe  surges  of  the  UtiUtarian  system  np  another  flight  of  stain, 
must,  to  felicitate  or  soothe  him,  receive  the  tribute  or  consolation  of  a  banquet  and  demon- 
stration, we  hold  up  our  hands  in  amazement  at  the  opulence  and  deglutition  of  Scotiand. 

What  phall  Ivpcome  of  us,  driven  further  onwards  still,  by  tbe  impetus  of  the  *  GastrononHc 
Regenerator,' we  dan  not  fortell.  The  whole  year  may  be  a  circle  of  public  feasts;  and 
our  institutions  gradually,  although  with  no  small  velocity,  ralapse  into  the  common  table 
of  Sparta.  But  never,  wbispen  Soyer,  into  tbe  black  broth  of  Lycurgus.  And  so  he  en- 
snares us  into  the  recognition  of  another  fundamental  principle,  that  the  simplicity  of 
Laconian  fare  might  be  admirably  appropriate  for  infant  republics  and  penniless  helots,  but 
can  afford  no  subsistence  to  an  overgrown  empire,  and  the  possesson  of  the  wealth  of  the 
world !  Thus  cookery  marks,  dates,  and  authenticates  the  refinement  of  mankind.  The 
savage  cuts  his  warm  slice  from  the  haunches  of  the  living  animal,  and  swallows  it  reeking 
from  the  kitchen  of  nature.  The  civilized  European,  revolting  from  the  dreadful  repaat, 
bams,  and  boils,  and  stews,  and  roasts  his  food  into  an  external  configuration,  colour,  and 
substance,  as  different  from  its  original  condition  as  the  mummy  of  Cheops  differs  from  the 
Cheops  who  watched,  with  an  imperial  dilatation  of  his  brow,  the  aspiring  immortality  of 
tbe  pyramids.  Both,  in  acting  so  differantiy,  are  the  slaves  and  the  types  of  the  circumstances 
of  their  position.  The  functions  in  the  frames  of  both  are  the  same ;  but  these  functions 
curiously  follow  the  discipline  of  the  social  situation  which  directs  and  regulates  their  de- 
velopment. The  economy  of  tbe  kitchen  bt  only  a  counterpart,  in  its  simplicity  or  compli- 
cation, its  rudeness  or  luxury,  of  the  economy  of  the  state.  The  subjects  of  patriarchs  and 
despots  may  eat  uncooked  hortes  with  relish  and  nourishment.  Tbe  denizens  of  a  political 
system  whose  every  motion  is  regulated  by  an  intricate  machinery.  In  which  the  teeth  of 
all  the  myriad  wheels  in  motion  are  indented  with  inextricable  multiplicity  of  confusion  into 
each  other,  perish  under  any  nurture  which  is  not  as  intricate,  complex,  artificial,  and 
confused.    What  a  noble  end  comprehensive  science  is  this  Gastronomy !  * 

**  Are  you  not  also,'*  says  the  philosophic  Soyer,  in  the  same  interesting  dialogue,  *'  of 
opinion  with  me,  my  lord,  that  nothing  better  disposes  the  mind  of  man  to  amity  in  thought 
and  deed,  than  a  dinner  which  has  been  knowingly  selected,  and  artistically  served  ?*'  Tbe 
answer  is  most  pregnant  '*  It  is  my  thinking  so,"  replies  Lord  M.  H.,  *<  which  has  always 
made  me  say  that  a  good  cook  is  as  useful  as  a  wise  minister.*'  Behold  to  what  an  altitude 
we  are  carried !  The  loaves  and  fiithes  in  tbe  bands  of  tbe  Whigs,  and  Soyer  at  tbe  Reform 
Club  to  dress  them  I  Let  us  banish  melancholy,  and  drive  away  dull  care.  The  bellicose 
propensities  of  a  foreign  secretary  are  happily  innocuous.  The  rumours  of  war  pass  by  us 
like  the  idle  wind  which  we  regard  not.  rrotocols  and  treaties,  notes  and  representations, 
^re  henceforth  disowned  by  diplomacy.  The  figure  of  Britannia,  with  a  stewpan  for  her 
helmet,  and  a  spit  for  a  spear,  leaning  in  statuesque  repose  on  a  folio  copy  of '  The  Gastronomie 
Regenerator,' 

'<  Surveys  mankind  from  China  to  Pern }" 


20 

wd  vitb  n  mniflgd  oendi  at  her  iBet,  and  a  ckradlni  sky  ofeifacad^  tBElea  on  tiie 
Imw  BiUioM  of  the  children  of  earth,  chattiiig  fntemaUy  together  at  the  romid  faMe  of 
imivenai  peaoa.  Bright  will  be  the  morning  oJT  the  day  which  sees  the  nipreas  of  such  aa 
image  on  oar  coneocj.  Of  conne,  it  will  be  nnderrtood  that  we  are  entirely  of  the  saaw 
mind,  ahstrectly,  as  M .  Soyer  and  Lord  M.  U.  The  stotAie  dtt  euUme  appean  to  us  an- 
questionably  to  be  one  of  the  most  impoftant  fonctiooaries  belonging  to  an  embaasy.  I^aoe 
or  war,  which  it  is  scarcely  necesnry  to  interpret  as  the  happineM  or  the  misefy  of  two 
great  coantries,  may  depend  upon  a  hiradache.  Now,  if  it  were  possible,  in  any  case,  to 
trace  the  biiioos  aneasiness  which  may  hare  penrerted  paciftc  intentions  Into  hostile  designs, 
to  the  nnslcilfol  or  careless  performance  of  his  momentous  duties  by  the  cook-legate,  no 
punishment  could  too  cruelly  expiate  such  a  blander.  We  shoold  be  inclined  to  propoaa 
that  the  brother  artist  who  most  adroitly  put  the  delinquent  to  torture,  should  be  his  suc- 
cessor, holding  oflBce  under  a  similsr  tenure.  It  may  be  matter  of  cootroverey,  however, 
at  once  whether  such  a  system  would  work  well,  and  whether  it  is  agreeable  to  the  pre- 
valence of  those  kindly  feelings  which  it  is  the  object  of  M.  Soyer,  and  erery  other  good 
cook  or  wise  statesman,  to  promulgate  throughout  the  huoian  family.  The  poblloatlon  of 
<  The  Gastronomic  Regeoeretor'  inspires  us  with  better  hopes.  The  ^10  of  the  dripping-pan 
will  be  no  more  entitled  to  acreen  bimseLf  behind  his  hnpenectselenoe  or  ncgflecied  education, 
than  the  noletterad  criminal  to  plead  bis  ignorance  of  tiie  alphabet  as  a  justificatton  of  his 
ignorance  of  the  statute  law  whose  enactments  send  him  to  Botai^  Bay.  The  radisBonto 
and  the  mysteries — the  elementary  axioms  and  most  recondite  problems— of  his  lofty  voca- 
tion are  ooroUed  before  him  in  legible  and  mtelligible  characten.  The  skill  which  is  the 
offspring  of  practice,  must  be  attained  by  bis  opportonities  and  his  indostiy.    And  if 

"  Fame  is  the  spur  which  the  clear  spirit  doth  raise," 
it  might,  we  trust,  satiate  the  most  rareoous  appetite  which  ever  gnawed  the  bowels  eveo 
of  a  cook,  not  merely  to  secure  the  tranqailUty  of  the  unirerse,  but  to  sure  bis  native  land 
the  expense  of  armies  and  fleets,  and  torn  the  currentB  of  gold,  absorbed  by  taxation,  into 
the  more  congenial  channel  of  gastronomical  enterprise.  The  majestic  and  far-spreading 
oak  springs  out  of  the  hamble  acorn.  In  future  ages  the  acute  historian  will  demonstrate 
bow  the  *'  copious  dinner"  which  ceoiented  the  bonds  of  eternal  allianoe  between  vast  and 
consolidated  empires,  whose  people  were  clothed  in  purple  and  fine  linen,  lived  in  habitac 
tions  decorated  with  every  tasteful  and  gorgeous  variety  which  caprice  could  snggoit  and 
affluence  procure,  and  mingled  the  physical  indolence  of  Syboris  with  the  inteUectoal 
activity  of  Athens,  was  but  the  ripe  fruit  legitimately  matured  from  the  simple  hud  of  the 
calumet  of  peace,  which  sealed  a  hollow  truce  among  the  roving  and  puny  bands  of  tbe 
naked,  cityless,  and  untutored  Indian.  So,  once  more,  the  perfectibility  of  oookeiy  iadi* 
cates  the  perfectibility  of  society. 

The  gallantry  of  Soyer  is  as  conspicuous  as  his  historical  and  political  philosophy.  He 
would  not  profusely  "scatter  plenty  o*er  a  smiling  land"  solely  for  the  gratificatton  of  his 
own  sex.  The  sun  shines  on  woman  as  on  man ;  and  when  the  sun  will  not  shine,  a 
woman's  eye  supplies  all  the  light  we  need.  The  sagacious  Regenerator  refuses  to 
restrict  to  tbe  lordly  moiety  of  mankind  a  monopoly  of  his  beams,  feeling  that,  when  the 
pressure  of  mortel  necessity  sinks  his  bead,  fairer  hands  than  those  of  tbe  statesman  or  the 
warrior,  tbe  ecclesiastic  or  the  lawyer,  are  likely  to  be  the  conservatois  of  hia  reputation. 
«  Allow  me,''  be  remarks,  <*  to  suggest  to  your  lordship,  that  a  meeting  for  practical 
gastronomical  purposes,  wAere  there  are  no  ktdiet,  is  in  my  eyes  a  garden  without  flowun, 
a  sea  without  waves,  an  experimental  squadron  without  sails." 

'<  Without  tbe  smile  from  partial  beauty  won, 
Say  what  were  man  ?— a  world  without  a  sun  !" 

The  harrowing  picture  of  desolation,  from  tbe  pen  of  M.  Soyer,  may  be  equalled,  but  cannot 
.be  surpassed,  by  a  line  here  and  there  in  Byron's  '  Darkness.'  The  sentiment,  at  the 
same  time,  sounds  oddly,  as  it  issues  from  the  penetralia  of  a  multitudinous  dub.  Oar 
notion  has  hitherto  been,  that  a  club  was  an  invention  of  which  a  princiiwl  object  vras  te 
prove  that  female  society  was  far  from  being  indispensable  to  man,  and  that  all  the  joys  of 
domesticity  might  be  tasted  in  a  state  of  single-blessedness  beyond  the  precincta  of  home 
for  a  small  annual  payment.  A  thorough-going  clnb-man  would  very  soon  drire  a  coach 
and  four  through  tbe  Regenerator's  polite  eloquence.  For  instance,  a  garden  without 
flowers  has  so  much  tbe  more  room  for  the  growth  of  celery,  asparagus,  artichokes,  and  tha 
like.  There  could  not  possibly  be  a  gnreater  convenience  than  the  evaporation  or  disap- 
pedrance  of  tbe  waters  of  tbe  ocean ;  because  we  should  then  have  railways  everywhere, 
and  no  nausea.  Sails,  likewise,  are  not  requisite  now-a-days  for  ships  \  on  the  contrary, 
steam-vessels  are  so  evidently  superior,  that  the  sail-maker  may  as  well  shut  up  bis  shop. 
Tbe  flowers  of  a  garden  are  an  incumbrance— the  waves  of  tbe  sea  are  an  impediment — the 
sails  of  a  ship  are  a  superfluity.    Garden,  sea,  and  ship  would  he  better  wanting  flowersb 


21 

wates,  and  «allf .    On  ibe  mine  prindples  a  clab  is  preferabto  to  a  famfiy  ftpeeide>  and  fhfl 

lot  of  a  bachelor  to  the  fate  of  a  Benedict    M.  Sojer,  apeokiog  ex  eathedrd  from  the 

kitchen  of  the  Reform  Club,  woald  find  it  no  easj  matter  to  parry  the  cogency  of  tfafa 

reasoning.     He  forgets,  apparently,  that  he  bare^  his  breast  to  a  most  formidable  attack. 

What  right  have  men  to  be  coolcs  ?      What  hypocrisy  it  is  to  regret  that  women  cannot 

eat  those  dinners  which  women  alone  are  entitled,  according  to  the  laws  of  nature  and  the 

usages  of  Britain,  to  dress !    Be  just  before  yon  affect  to  be  generous !   Surrender  the  place^ 

and  the  privileges,  and  the  Immunities,  which  are  the  heritage  and  birthright  of  the  petticoat ! 

Hercules  with  a  distaff  was  bad  enough  ;  but  where,  in  the  vagaries  and  metamorphoses  of 

heathen  mythology,  do  you  read  of  Hercules  with  a  dishclout?    What  would  the  moon  say, 

should  the  sun  insist  on  blazing  away  all  night  as  well  as  all  day  ?    Your  comparisons  are 

full  of  poetry  and  humbug.    A  kitchen  without  a  female  cook — it  ia  like  a  flowerless  garden, 

a  waveless  sea,  a  sailiess  ship.    A  kitchen  with  a  male  cook — ^is  a  monster  which  natural 

history  rejects,  and  good  feeling  abhors.    The  rights  of  women  are  scarcely  best  vindicated 

hy  him  who  unurps  the  most  precious  of  them.    There  will  be  time  to  complain  of  their  • 

absence  from  the  scene,  when,  by  a  proper  self-ostracism,  you  leave  free  for  them  the  stage 

which  it  becomes  them  to  occupy.    These  are  knotty  matters,  M.  Soyer,  for  digestion. 

With  so  pretty  a  quarrel  we  shall  not  interfere,  having  a  wholesome  respect  for  an  Amazonian 

enemy  who  can  stand  fire  like  salamanders.    To  be  candid,  we  are  puzzled  by  the  sprightli- 

nees  of  our  own  fancy,  and  do  not  very  distinctly  comprehend  how  we  have  managed  to 

involve  the  Regenerator,  whose  thoughts  were  l)ent  on  the  pale  and  slim  sylphs  of  the 

6o«doir,  in  a  squabble  with  the  rubicund  and  rotund  vestals  who  watch  the  inextinguishable 

flames  of  The  Great  Hbabth. 

This  marvellous  dialogue,  from  which  we  have  taken  with  our  finger  and  thumb  a  tit-bit 
here  and  there,  might  be  the  text  for  inexhaustible  annotation.  It  occupies  no  more  than 
two  pages ;  but,  as  Gibbon  has  said  of  Tacitus,  **  they  are  the  pages  of  Soyer."  Every 
topic  within  the  range  of  human  knowledge  is  touched,  by  direct  exposition  or  collateral 
aliuaion.  The  metaphysician  and  the  theologian,  the  phyi^iologlst  and  the  moralist,  are  all 
challenged  to  investigate  its  dogmas,  which,  let  us  forewarn  them,  are  so  curtly,  positively, 
and  oracularly  propounded,  as,  if  orthodox,  to  need  no  commentary;  and  if  heterodox,  to 
demand  accumulated  mountains  of  controversy  to  overwhelm  them.  For  be,  we  believe,  can 
hardly  be  deemed  a  mean  opponent,  unworthy  of  a  foeman's  steel-pen,  who  has  at  his  fingers' 
ends  «  Mullets  H  la  Montesquieu,"  <«  Fillets  of  Haddock  a  la  St.  Paul,"  «  Saddle  of  Mutton 
&  hi  Mirabeau,"  <*  Ribs  of  Beef  4  la  Bolingbroke,"  «  Ponding  SootB^  &  la  M^pbistoph^les," 
<<  Woodcock  a  la  Stael,'*  and  *'  Filets  de  Ba>uf  farois  k  la  Dr.  Johnson." 

The  constitution  of  English  cookery  is  precisely  similar  to  the  constitution  of  the  English 
language.  Both  were  prophetically  sketched  by  Herodotus  in  his  description  of  the  army 
of  Xerxes,  which  gathered  its  numbers,  and  strength,  and  beauty  from  "  all  the  quarters 
in  the  shipman's  cud."  That  imperishable  mass  of  noble  wordH — that  glorious  tongue  in 
which  Soyer  has  prudently  written  '  The  Gastronomic  Regenerator,'  is  in  itself  an  un- 
equalled specimen  of  felicitous  cookery.  The  dishes  which  furnished  the  most  recherche 
dinner  Soyer  ever  dressed,  the  '*  Dtner  LucuUusian  K  la  Sampayo,''  being  resolved  into  the 
chaos  whence  they  arose  in  faultless  proportions  and  resistless  grace,  would  not  disclose 
elements  and  ingredients  more  heterogeneous,  remote,  and  altered  from  their  primal  nature, 
than  those  which  go  to  the  composition  of  the  few  sentences  in  which  he  tells  us  of  this 
resuscitation  of  the  ectna  of  Petronius.  A  thousand  years  and  a  thousand  accidents,  the 
deepest  erudition  and  the  keenest  ingenuity,  the  most  delicate  wit  and  most  outrageous 
folly,  have  been  co-operating  in  the  manufacture  of  the  extraordinary  vocabulary  which  baa 
enabled  the  Regenerator  himself  to  concoct  the  following  unparalleled  receipt  for  **  The 
Celestial  and  Terrestrial  Cream  of  Great  Britain.  (See  p.  719.) 

Half  a  century  hence,  when  the  simmering  over  the  roseate  fire  is  silent,  may  we,  with 
M.  Soyer,  be  present  to  gaze  on  the  happy  consummation  of  the  conceptions  of  his  trans- 
cendent Imagination ! 

The  Regenerator  is  too  conversant  with  universal  history  not  to  know  that  his  book,  in 
crossing  the  Tweed  northwards,  approaches  a  people  more  familiar  with  its  fundamental 
principles  than  any  other  inhabitants  of  these  Fortanate  Isles.  England,  for  anything  we 
care,  may  deserve  the  opprobrious  title  of  perfidious  Albion.  Scotland — {**  Stands  Scotland 
where  it  did?") — ^was  ever  the  firm  friend  of  France.  Ages  ago,  when  our  southern  cousins 
were  incessanUy  fighting,  we  were  constantly  dining,  with  the  French.  Our  royal  and 
noblest  families  were  mingled  by  the  dearest  ties  with  the  purest  and  proudest  blood  of  the 
adopted  land  of  Mary.  For  centuries  uninterruptedly  was  maintained  an  interchange  of 
every  gentle  courtesy,  and  every  friendly  succour ;  and  when  the  broadsword  was  not  needed 
to  gleam  in  the  front  ranks  of  Gallic  chivalry,  the  dirk  never  failed  to  emit  the  first  flash  in 
the  onslaughts  of  Gallic  hospitality.  The  Soyers  of  those  times— dim  precunsors  of  the 
Regenerator— did  not  disdain  to  alight  on  our  hungry  shores,  and  leave  monuments  of  their 


22 

beneflosnoe,  which  are  gntafol  to  this  hum  In  the  ncwtrfla  and  to  the  palate  of  prinee  ^ 
peafant  Nay,  we  shrewdly  oonjecturo  that  some  time-honouied  secrets  still  dwell  with  w» 
of  which  the  memory  has  long  since  perished  in  their  hirthplace.  Boastful  we  may  aot 
suffer  ourselves  to  be.  Bat  if  M.  Soyer  ever  heard  of,  or  dressed,  or  tasted  inedaely  as  we 
have  dressed  and  tasted,  what  is  known  to  ns  and  a  very  limited  circle  of  aoquaiataiioea  as 
"  Lamb-toasty,"  we  shall  start  instantly  from  the  penultimate  habitation  of  Ultiina  Thek^ 
commonly  known  as  John  O'Groat's  House,  expressly  to  test  his  veracity,  and  gratily  oer 
Tonicity.  Perhaps  he  may  think  it  would  not  be  too  polite  In  os  to  tranarait  him  the  leceipC 
Not  for  a  wilderness  of  Regenerators !  Could  we  unfold  to  him  the  awful  legend  io  con- 
nexion with  it,  of  which  we  are  almost  the  exclusive  depositaries,  the  cap  so  lightly  lying 
on  his  brow  would  be  projected  upwards  to  the  roof  by  the  instantaneous  starting  of  hia  hair. 
The  Last  Minstrel  himself,  to  whom  it  was  namted,  shook  bis  head  when  he  heeid  it,  and  waa 
never  known  to  allude  to  it  again  ;  in  reference  to  which  circumstance,  all  that  the  bitlaiest 
malice  could  insinuate  was,  that  if  the  story  had  been  worth  remembering,  he  wea  not  likely 
to  have  foigotten  it  "  One  December  midnight,  a  shriek" — is  probably  aa  for  aa  wm 
now  venture  to  proceed.*  There  are  some  descendants  of  the  parties,  whoae  feeHnge, 
after  the  lapse  of  five  hundred  years,  which  is  but  as  yesterday  in  a  Highlander^  geaea  _ 
we  are  bound  to  respect  In  other  five  hundred  yean,  we  shall,  with  more  safety  to  our* 
selves,  let  them  *'  sup  full  of  horrors." 

*  The  Gastronomic  Regenerator'  reminds  us  of  no  book  so  much  as  the  Deepaiclies  ef 
Arthur  Duke  of  Wellington.  The  orders  of  Soyer  emanate  from  a  man  with  a  clear,  coel, 
determined  mind — possessing  a  complete  mastery  of  his  weapons  and  materials,  and  pravpt 
to  make  them  available  for  meeting  every  contingency— singularly  fertile  in  conoeivinf^,  and 
fortunate  without  a  check  in  executing,  sudden,  rapid,  and  £fficult  oombinationa— overiook- 
ing  nothing  with  bis  eagle  eye,  and,  by  the  powerful  felicity  of  his  reaouroea,  "^^^fy  the 
most  of  everything — matchless  in  his  **  Hori-d'cBnTres"^unas8ailable  in  his  '<  Remotee''*— 
impregnable  in  his  '*  Pieces  de  r^istance"^and  unconquerable  with  his  ''  Flanks."  His 
directions  are  lucid,  precise,  brief,  and  unmistakable.  There  is  not  a  word  in  them  anpar- 
fluous— or  off  the  matter  immediately  on  band— or  not  directly  to  the  point  They  are  not 
the  dreams  of  a  visionary  theorist  and  enthusiast,  but  the  hard,  solid,  real  leaolti  of  the  i 
experience  of  a  tried  veteran,  who  has  penonally  superintended  or  executed  all  theopenatii 
of  which  he  writes.  It  may  be  matter  of  dispute  whether  Wellington  or  Soyer  i 
their  knowledge  in  the  face  of  the  hotter  fire.  They  are  both  great  Chksfii— wfaoaa 
and  intellectual  faculties  have  a  wonderful  similarity — and  wlK>se  sayings  and  doinga  ate 
characterized  by  an  astonishing  resemblance  in  nerve,  perspicuity,  vigoar,  and  aaooaai. 
In  one  respect  M.  Soyer  has  an  adrantage  over  his  illustrious  contemporaiy.  His  Despatches 
are  addressed  to  an  army  which  as  far  outnumben  any  force  ever  commanded  or  ''•■>^H4 
by  the  Hero  of  Waterloo,  as  the  stan  in  the  blue  empyrean  exceed  the  gaa-lampa  of 
London^n  army  which,  instead  of  diminishing  under  any  circumstances,  evinoea  a  ten- 
dency, we  fear,  of  steadily  swelling  its  ranks  year  by  year,  and  day  by  day-— a  standing anayt 
which  the  strong  hand  of  the  most  Jealous  republicanism  cannot  suppress,  and  which  the 
realization  of  the  bright  chimera  of  universal  peace  will  fail  to  disband.  Before  many 
months  are  gone,  thousands  and  tens  of  thousands  will  be  marching  and  oountennarohiag, 
cutting  and  skewering,  broiling  and  freezing,  in  blind  obedience  to  the  commands  of  tlia 
Ri^nerator.  "  Peace  hath'  her  rictories  no  less  than  those  of  war."  But  it  is  not  to  ba 
forgotten  that  if  the  sword  of  Welington  had  not  restored  and  confirmed  the  tranquillity  of 
the  world,  the  earring-knife  of  Soyer  might  not  have  been  so  bright 

The  confidence  of  Soyer  in  his  own  handiwork  is  not  the  arrogant  preaomption  of  vanity, 
but  the  calm  self-reliance  of  genius.  There  is  a  deal  of  good  sense  in  the  paragraph  whi^ 
we  now  quote.  (See  p.  xi.) 

It  seems  a  childish  remark  to  make,  that  all  salts  do  not  coincide  in  their  saltness,  nor 
sugars  in  their  sweetness.  The  principle,  however,  which  the  obsenration  oontaiaa  withia 
it,  is  anything  but  childish.  It  implies  that,  supposing  the  accuracy  of  a  Soyer  to  be  needy 
infallible,  the  faith  in  his  instructions  must  never  be  so  implicit  as  to  supenede  the  testimony 
of  one's  own  sentes,  and  the  admonitions  of  one*s  own  judgment  It  is  with  the  saost 
poignant  recollections  that  we  acknowledge  the  justice  of  the  Regenerator's  caution  on  this 
head.  We  once,  with  a  friend  who  shared  our  martyrdom,  tried  to  make  onion  aoup  la 
exact  confonnity  with  what  was  set  down  in  an  Oracle  of  Cookery,  which  a  foul  mischanoa 
had  placed  across  our  path.  With  unerring  but  unreflecting  fid<dity,  we  filled,  and  mixed^ 
and  stirred,  and  watched  the  fatal  caldron.  The  result  was  to  the  eye  inexpressibly  alarm* 
ing.  A  thick  oily  fluid,  repulsive  in  colour,  but  infinitely  more  so  in  smell,  fell  with  a 
flabby,  heavy,  lazy  stream  into  the  soup-plate.  Having  swallowed,  with  a  Laocoonie  can* 
tortion  of  countenance,  two  or  three  mouthfuls,  our  individual  eyes  wandered  atealtfaity 
towaids  our  neighbour.  Evidently  we  were  fellow-sufferen  \  but  prlde>  which  has  oe* 
casioned  so  many  lamentable  catastrophes,  made  us  both  dumb  and  obdunte  in  ov  agon|b 


B«! 


23 

Slowly  and  sadlj,  at  lengthened  interrab,  the  spoon,  with  its  abominable  freight,  continued 
to  inake  silent  voyages  from  the  platters  to  our  lips.  How  long  we  made  fools  of  oarselves 
it  ia  not  necessary  to  calculate.  Suddenly,  by  a  simultaneous  impulse,  the  two  windows 
of  the  room  faToured  the  headlong  exit  of  two  wretches  whose  accumulated  grievances  were 
heavier  than  they  could  endure.  Hours  rolled  away,  while  the  beautiful  face  of  Wioander- 
mere  looked  as  ugly  as  Styx,  as  we  writhed  along  iU  banks,  more  mi^rably  moaning  th.-n 
the  hopeless  beggar  who  sighed  for  the  propitiatory  obolua  to  Charon.  And  from  that 
irrevocable  hour  we  have  alMindoned  onions  to  the  heroines  of  tragedy.  Fools,  in  spite  of 
all  warning,  are  taught  by  such  a  process  as  that  to  which  we  submitted.    Wise  men,  take 

a  hint. 

*'  Nature,  says  I  to  myself' — Soyer  is  speaking — <' compels  us  to  dine  more  or  less  once 
a-day.*'  The  average  which  oscillates  between  the  "  more"  and  the  *'  less,'*  it  requires 
considerable  dexterity  to  catch.  Having  read  six  hundred  pages  and  fourteen  hundred 
receipln,  the  question  is,  where  are  we  to  begin  ?  Our  helplessness  is  confessed.  Is  it 
possible  the  Regenerator  is,  after  all,  more  tantalizing  than  the.  Barmecide  ?  No— here 
ta  the  very  aid  we  desiderate.  Our  readers  shall  judge  of  a  **  Dinner  Party  at  Home." 
(See  p.  686.) 

We  shall  be  exceedingly  curious  to  hear  how  many  hundred  parties  of  ei|^ht  persons, 
upon  reading  this  bill  of  fare  in  our  pages,  will,  without  loss  of  time,  congregate  in  onier 
to  do  it  anbatantial  honour.  Such  a  clattering  of  brass  and  brandishing  of  steel  may  strike 
a  new  government  as  symptomatical  or  preparatory  of  a  popular  rising.  We  may  therefore 
reassure  them  with  the  information,  that  those  who  sit  down  with  M.  Soyer,  will  have 
little  thought  of  rising  for  a  long  time  afterwards. 

We  have  introduced  '  The  Gastronomic  Regenerator'  to  public  notice  in  that  strain  which 
ita  external  appearance,  its  title,  its  scheme,  and  its  contents,  demand  and  justify.  But  we 
must  not,  even  good-humonredly,  mislead  those  for  whose  use  its  publication  is  principally 
intended.  To  all  intents  and  purposes  M.  Soyer's  work  is  strictly  and  most  intelligibly 
practical.  It  is  as  full  of  matter  as  an  egg  b  full  of  meat ;  and  the  household  which  would 
travel  through  iti  multitudinous  lessons  must  be  as  full  of  meat  as  the  Regenerator  is.full 
of  matter.  The  humbl«»t,  as  well  as  the  wealthiest  kitchen  economy,  is  considered  and  in* 
structed ;  nor  will  the  three  hundred  receipts  at  the  conclusion  of  the  volume,  which  are 
more  peculiarly  applicable  to  the  "  Kitchen  at  Home,"  be,  probably,  the  portion  of  the  book 
least  agreeable  and  valuable  to  the  general  community.  For  example,  just  before  shaking 
bands  with  him,  let  us  listen  to  M.  Soyer,  beginning  admirably  to  discourse  of  the  '*  Choosing 
and  Roasting  of  plain  Joints."  (See  p.  637.) 

How  full  of  milky  kindness  is  his  language,  still  breathing  the  spirit  of  that  predominant 
Mea — the  tranquillization  of  the  universe  by  "copious  dinners!"  He  has  given  up 
**  basting"  with  success.  Men  may  as  well  give  up  basting  one  another.  Nolxniy  will 
enVy  the  Regenerator  the  bloodless  fillets  worthily  encircling  bis  forehead,  should  the  aspira- 
tions of  his  benevolent  soul  in  his  lifetime  assume  any  tangible  shape.  But  if  a  more 
distant  futurity  is  destined  to  witness  the  lofty  triumph,  he  may  yet  depart  in  the  confidence 
of  its  occurrence.  The  most  precious  fruits  ripen  the  most  slowly.  The  sun  itself  Joes 
not  burst  at  once  into  meridian  splendour.  Gradually  breaks  the  morning ;  and  the  mellow 
light  glides  noiselessly  along,  tinging  mountain,  forest,  and  the  city  spire,  till  a  stealthy 
possession  seems  to  be  taken  of  the  whole  upper  surface  of  creation,  and  the  mighty  monarch 
at  last  uprises  on  a  world  prepared  to  expect,  to  hail,  and  to  reverence  his  perfect  and 
unclouded  majesty. 


MOiunaro  post. 


Cftam  of  Egjmt  Vlbralum  Pacha,  The  novelty  of  the  bill  of  fare  which  appeared  in 
our  columns  of  &iturday  last  rehiting  to  the  banquet  given  to  his  Highness  Ibrahim  Pacha, 
by  the  members  of  the  Reform  Club,  the  day  previous,  having  since  been  the  topic  of  general 
conversation,  our  readers  will  perhaps  feel  interested  in  the  description  of  two  of  the  most 
novel  and  original  dishes  served  on  that  occasion.  The  first,  entitled  ''Cream  of  Egypt  a 
ribrahim  Pacha,"  and  composed  expressly  for  the  occasion  by  M.  Soyer,  the  chefde  cuisine 
of  the  dub/  was  the  admiration  of  the  whole  company,  and  especially  so  of  the  Pacha,  who 
as  soon  Jbs  it  was  placed  before  him,  quickly  perceived  the  honour  intended  to  be  conferred 
upon  him.  This  dish  consisted  of  a  pyramid  about  two  feet  and  a  half  high,  made  of  light 
meringue  cake,  in  imitation  of  solid  stones,  surrounded  with  immense  grapes  and  other 
fruits,  but  representing  only  the  four  angles  of  the  pyramid  through  sheets  of  waved  sugar, 
to  show,  to  the  greatest  advantage,  an  elegant  cream  a  fananas,  on  the  top  of  which  was 
testing  a  highly-finished  portrait  of  the  illustrious  stranger's  father,  Mehemet  Ali,  carefully 
drawn  on  a  round-shaped  satin  carton,  the  exact  size  of  the  top  of  the  cream.  The  portrait 
was  immediately  observed  by  his  Highness,  who  carefully  took  it  up,  and,  after  showing  it 

49 


24 


to  several  of  his  niite,  placed  it  in  his  bosom.  What  was  hii  H^tUMas'a 
however,  on  again  loolcfng  at  the  spot,  to  observe  in  the  cream,  as  mider  a  giaas,  a  bl^ii^* 
iinlfthed  portrait  of  himself,  sorronnded  by  a  very  carefally-ezecnted  f^aoM*  M.  Soj«r, 
having  been  sent  for  by  the  party,  was  highly  eomplimented  by  bis  Highness,  ttaroi^  kls 
interpreter.  The  Pacha  desired  to  know  where  and  how  he  ooahl  procoie  ancb  a  itir<it>tt 
of  his  father,  and  how  his  own  wae  so  correctly  drawn  in  the  cream  ?  •*  PleMo  tell  bis 
Highness,"  says  M.  Soyer  to  the  interpreter,  <<  that  both  were  execnted  from  the  original 
sicetches  drawn  by  onr  celebrated  artist  Horace  Vemet,  whilst  in  Alezaodria.  The  poitnit 
in  the  cream  is  drawn  on  wafer-paper,  which  being  placed  on  the  damp  jelly  rnpmfmtli^ 
the  glara,  dissolves,  and  nothing  remains  of  the  wafer-paper  but  the  appearance  of  the  portrait 
painted  in  light  water-colours.  The  imitation  of  the  gilt  frame  Is  made  with  the  tarn  de  vie 
of  Dantzie  and  gold  water  mixed  with  the  jelly,  the  gold  leaf  of  which  forma  the  frame."  Aftar 
having  been  thanked  by  the  Pacha,  the  pyramklal  cream  of  Egypt  waa  ordered  to  be  ahowB 
to  each  guest  by  sliding  it  from  one  to  the  other  roand  the  table. 

Though  everything  was  eatable  in  It,  this  magniffeent  dish  was  respected,  and  leaaaSned 
untouched  nntil  the  end  of  the  banquet,  though  everybody  tried  to  partake  of  the  finiit  whi^ 
surrounded  it. 

The  next  dish  which  much  amused  the  company  waa  the  one  entitled  the  **  GiUmm 
Sritannipte  h  l^amiral,^*  being  the  representation  of  an  old  man-of-war,  bearing  the  English 
and  Egyptfain  flags,  drawn  on  rice-paper,  the  ship  being  iUled  with  ice  mBuueute  ams  picket 
and  loaded  wiih  large  strawberries,  cherries,  grapes,  and  bunches  of  currants.  It  was  no 
placed  on  the  table  that  Commodore  Napier  had  to  help  from  this  cargo  the  ffiucWoaa 
stranger,  who  appeared  much  amused  at  tile  Incident.  The  moistoro  and  liquor  of  the  lee 
gradually  melted  and  imbibed  the  carcase  of  the  vessel,  which  was  made  of  a  Idnd  of  delieBAB 
sponge  cake.  While  the  gallant  commodore  waa  in  the  act  of  helping  tha  leawinder  of 
the  ice,  the  ship  gave  way,  and  formed  a  complete  wreck,  which  caoaed  great  hilaiitir  among 
the  company  who  were  close  enough  to  witness  the  scene. 


NEWSPAPERS,  <fec.  IN  WHICH  M.  SOYER'S  WORK  HAS  BEEN  NOTICED. 


Athenaeum. 

Bell's  Life. 

Blackwood's  Magazine. 

Britannia. 

Brussels  Herald. 

Builder. 

Chamberu'a  JoumaL 

Colburn's  New  Monthly. 

Court  Journal. 

Courrier  de  PEorope. 

Douglas  Jerrold. 

£ngli:}h  Gentlemaa. 

Era. 

Examiner. 

Glasgow  Constitutional. 

Globe. 

Guardian. 

Hood's  Magazine. 

Illustrated  News. 

John  Bull. 

Journal  des  D^bats. 

La  Mode. 

Dispatch. 


Literary  Gazette. 

Liverpool  Chronicle. 

L'Observateur  Fran^aia. 

Morning  Cbronide. 

Morning  Herald. 

Morning  Post 

Musical  World. 

Naval  and  Militaiy  Oaaette. 

Observer. 

Petit  Courrier  dea  Damea* 

Pictorial  Times. 

Punch. 

Satirist 

Sharpe's  Magazine. 

Spectator. 

Sun. 

Sunday  Times. 

Tablet 

Times. 

Week^  Chronicle. 

Windsor  and  Eton  JonrnaL 

Atlas. 


Vrom  'TBa  TXma*  or  the  19tli  TMBMUAMrr,  1847. 


Tbiid  Edition.— Yes  (  a  third  edition  of  this  traly  national  work  now  lies  liefore  us. 
The  pablic,  as  we  shrewdly  foresaw,  have  not  failed  to  appreciate  the  labour  of  its  author. 
Alexis  Soyer  has  received  the  reword  that  sooner  or  later  is  bestowed  upon  the  philan- 
tbropist  and  the  patriot.    It  may  possibly  be  remembered  that  when  the  incomparable  cook 
of  the  Reform  Club  was  overcome,  to  use  his  own  words,  with  ''  a  thrill  of  horror,*'  by  the 
request  of  several  persons  offdistinctlon,  '*  particularly  the  ladies,*'  who  urged  him  to  publish 
a  cookery  book,  he  suddenly  recollected  having  been  in  *'  a  most  superb  library,"  where  all 
at  once  bis  attention  was  attracted  by  the  19tfa  edition  of  a  voluminous  work,  which  was 
supported  on  either  side  by  the  glories  of  a  Milton  and  a  Shakspeare.     When  the  Rege- 
nerator found  courage  to  open  the  precious  volume,  to  his  great  disappointment  he  disco- 
vered <<  H  receipt  for  ox-tail  soup."     **  The  terrifying  eflrect  produced  upon  me,"  says 
Monsieur  Soyer,  **  by  this  succulent  volume  made  roe  determine  that  my  few  ideas,  whether 
culinary  or  domestic,  should  never  encumber  a  sanctuary  which  ought  to  be  entirely  devoted 
to  works  worthy  of  a  place  in  the  temple  of  the  Muses."     Alas,  how  rash  are  human 
resolutions !     How  little,  in  the  obscurity  of  our  spring-time,  do  we  dream;  of  the  daz- 
zling splendour  that  awaits  our  coming  summer !     Every  library,  from  the  London  to  the 
British  Museum,  from  Brocket  Hall  to  the  Palace  of  the  Tuileries,  has  welcomed  the 
Regenerator  to  its  choicest  shelf,  and  edition  follows  edition  with  a  rapidity  which,  in  the 
case  of  so  ponderous  a  work,  is  positively  marvellous.    Like  Byron,  M.  Soyer  finds  himself 
famous  in  a  morning.    We  do  not  grudge  him  his  greatness,  but  we  confess  we  do  envy  the 
succeeding  generations,  who,  destined  to  be  the  ofirapring  of  men  that  have  been  taught  by 
Soyer  to  eat — ^not  to  appease  hunger,  but  to  elevate  the  soul, — will  have  acquired  a  delight 
in  existence  for  which  their  grosser  grandfathers  were  physically  unfit.    We  welcome  with 
all  respect^the  third  appearance  of  this  true  child  of  civilization.    We  can  do  no  more. 


tmiaxn  n  o.  aib  t.  ABii*»D,  ■AmrsMOMsv 


25 


J